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Letters  of  Travel. 


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Letters  of  Travel 


AROUND  THE  WORLD,  WESTWARD: 

NEW  YORK  TO  SAN  FRANCISCO,  via  PANAMA;  SAND- 
WICH ISLANDS,  SAMOA,  NEW  ZEALAND,  TAS- 
MANIA, AUSTRALIA,  MAHE,  BOURBON, 
MAURITIUS,  MADAGASCAR,  SOUTH 
AFRICA,  CAPE  TOWN  TO  NEW 
YORK,  VIA  MADEIRA  AND 
ENGLAND. 


Made  in  1889-1890. 


SIXTH  TOUR. 


BALTIMORE: 

PRINTED  BY  JOHN  MURPHY  & CO. 


SURPLUS 


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PREFACE. 


In  printing  the  Sixth  Tour,  it  is  proper  for  me  to  state  in  this  Preface, 
as  I did  in  those  of  the  five  I have  already  put  in  type,  that  it  is  not  for 
the  purpose  of  giving  it  publicity,  but  simply  to  gratify  those  to  -whom 
the  Letters  were  written,  and  for  the  entertainment  of  the  friends,  who 
take  interest  in  my  wanderings. 


FRED.  W.  M.  HOLLIDAY. 


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CONTENTS. 


NEW  YORK  TO  SAN  FRANCISCO,  via  PANAMA. 

LETTER  I. 

1889.  Astor  House,  New  York  City,  Friday,  November  29,  1889; 

Do.,  Saturday,  November  30;  Do.,  Sunday,  December  1 

LETTER  II. 

Steamer  City  of  Para,  Pacific  Mail  S.  S.  Line,  Monday, 
December  2 ; same  Ship,  Tuesday,  December  3 ; same  Ship, 
Wednesday  and  Thursday,  December  4 and  5 ; same  Ship, 
Friday  and  Saturday,  December  6 and  7;  same  Ship,  Sun- 
day and  Monday,  December  8 and  9. 

LETTER  III. 

Steamer  San  Blas,  Panajia,  Tuesday,  December  10;  same 
Ship,  Wednesday,  December  11 ; same  Ship,  Thursday, 
December  12;  same  Ship,  Friday,  December  13;  same 
Ship,  Saturday,  December  14 

LETTER  IV. 

Steamer  San  Blas,  La  Libertad,  San  Salvador,  Sunday, 
December  15;  same  Steamer,  San  Jose,  Guatemala, 
Monday,  December  16;  same  Steamer,  Champerico, 
Guatemala,  Tuesday,  December  17  ; same  Steamer,  off 
Mexican  Coast,  Wednesday  and  Thursday,  December  18 
and  T9 ; same  Steamer,  at  Acapulco,  Mexico,  Friday, 
December  20;  same  Steamer,  at  Mansanillo,  Mexico, 
Saturday  and  Sunday,  December  21  and  22;  same  Steamer, 
AT  San  Blas,  Mexico,  Monday,  December  23 ; same 
Steadier,  at  Mazatlan,  Mexico,  Tuesday,  December  24 ; 
SAME  Steamer,  Gulf  of  California,  Christmas,  Wednes- 
day, December  25 ; same  Steadier,  off  Lower  California, 
Thursday  and  Friday,  December  26  and  27 ; same  Steamer, 
OFF  Lower  California  and  the  State  of  California, 
Saturday  and  Sunday,  December  28  and  29  ; SAME  steamer, 
ON  Coast  of  California,  Monday,  December  30 ; on  same 
Steamer  and  at  San  Francisco,  Tuesday,  December  31. 

vii 


Page. 

1-7 


7-16 


16-25 


25-45 


CONTENTS. 


viii 


SAN  FRANCISCO. 

LETTER  V. 

Page. 

1890.  San  Francisco,  California,  Wednesday,  January  1 ; Do.,  Thurs- 
day, January  2;  Do.,  Friday,  January  3;  Do.,  Saturday, 

January  4 45-56 

LETTER  VI. 

San  Francisco,  Sunday,  January  5;  Do.,  Monday,  January  6; 

Do.,  Tuesday,  January  7 ; Do.,  Wednesday,  January  8;  Do., 

Thursday,  January  9;  Do.,  Friday,  January  10 56-69 

LETTER  VII. 

San  Francisco,  Saturday,  January  11 ; Do.,  Sunday,  January  12; 

Do.,  Monday,  January  13 69-84 


SAN  FRANCISCO  TO  THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS. 

LETTER  VIII. 

Steamship  Alameda,  Oceanic  Line,  Harbor  of  San  Fran- 
cisco, Tuesday,  January  14;  ON  same  Steamer,  San 
Francisco  to  Honolulu,  Wedne.sday,  Thursday,  and  Fri- 
day, January  15,  16,  and  17 ; ON  Same  Ship  and  Ocean, 

Saturday,  January  18 ; Do.,  Sunday,  January  19;  Do.,  Mon- 
day and  Tuesday,  January  20  and  21 84-93 

HONOLULU,  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS,  TO  NEW  ZEALAND. 

LETTER  IX. 

On  Steamship  Alameda,  at  Honolulu,  Hawaiian  Islands, 
Wednesday,  January  22;  on  same  Steamer,  Pacific 
Ocean,  from  Hawaiian  to  Samoan  Islands,  Thursday 
and  Friday,  January  23  and  24;  Do.,  Saturday  and  Sunday, 

January  25  and  26  ; Do.,  Monday,  January  27 ; Do.,  Tues- 
day, January  28 

LETTER  X. 

On  Steamship  Alameda,  Wednesday,  January  29;  Do.,  Thurs- 
day, Friday,  vSaturday,  and  Sunday,  January  30,  31,  and 
^ February  1 and  2;  Do.,  Tuesday,  February  4 ; Auckland, 

New  Zealand,  Wednesday,  February  5;  Do.,  Thursday, 

February  6 


93-120 


120-131 


CONTENTS. 


IX 


NEW  ZEALAND,  AND  TO  AUSTRALIA,  via  TASMANIA 
—AUSTRALIA, 

LETTER  XI. 

Page. 

1890.  Oxford,  Friday,  February  7 ; Ohinemutd,  Saturday,  February 
8;  Do.,  Sunday,  February  9;  Do.,  Monday,  February  10; 
Waieakei,  Tuesday,  February  11 ; Tatjsso,  Lake  House, 
Wednesday,  February  12;  Do.,  Thursday,  February  13; 
Tabaweea,  Friday,  February  14;  Xapiee,  Saturday,  Feb- 
ruary 15 131-156 


LETTER  XII. 

Xapiee,  Sunday,  February  16;  Wellington,  Monday,  February 
17 ; Steamer  Wakatipo,  feom  Wellington  to  Christ- 
church, Tuesday,  February  18  ; Christchurch,  Wednes- 
day, February  19 ; Do.,  Thursday,  February  20 ; Do.,  Friday, 

February  21;  Do.,  Saturday,  February  22;  Do.,  Sunday, 

February  23;  Fairlie,  Monday,  February  24;  Pukaki, 

Tuesday,  February  25;  The  Hermitage,  Mount  Cook, 
Wednesday,  February  26;  Do.,  Thursday,  February  27; 

Do.,  Friday,  February  28;  Do.,  Saturday,  March  1;  Do., 

Sunday,  March  2 ; Pukaki,  Monday,  March  3 ; Lindis 
Hotel,  near  Lindis  Pass,  Tuesday  March  4 ; Pembroke, 

Lake  Wanaka,  Wednesday,  March  5 ; Do.,  Thursday, 

March  6;  Do.,  Friday,  March  7 ; Queenstown,  on  Lake 
Wakatipu,  Saturday,  March  8 ; Do.,  Sunday,  March  9 ; 
Kingston,  at  foot  of  Lake  Wakatipu,  Monday,  March 
10;  Dunedin,  Tuesday,  March  11 ; Do.,  Wednesday,  March 
12;  Do.,  Thursday,  iVIarch  13;  Do.,  Friday,  March  14;  Do., 

Saturday,  March  15;  Do.,  Sunday,  March  16 156-213 

LETTER  XIII. 

Dunedin,  Monday,  March  17 ; Do.,  Tuesday,  March  18 ; Do., 
Wednesday,  March  19;  Steamship  Mararoa,  from  Dune- 
din TO  Bluff,  Thursday,  March  20 ; Bluff,  and  on 
Ocean  between  Bluff  and  Hobart,  Friday,  March  21 ; 

ON  Ocean  between  Bluff  and  Hobart,  Saturday,  March 
22;  Do.,  Sunday,  March  23;  on  same  Ocean,  and  at 
Hobart,  Monday,  March  24;  Hobart,  Tuesday,  March  25; 
Launceston,  Tasmania,  Wednesday,  March  26 ; from 
Launceston  to  Melbourne,  and  in  Melbourne,  Thurs- 
day and  Friday,  March  27  and  28 ; Melbourne,  Australia, 

Saturday,  March  29 ; Do.,  Sunday,  March  30 ; Do.,  Monday, 

March  31;  Do.,  Tuesday,  April  1 ; Do.,  Wednesday,  April  2; 


X 


CONTENTS. 


LETTER  XIII — Continued. 

1890.  Lakes’  Enteance,  Gippsland,  Victoria,  Mebrangbaue  oe 
Roadknight’s  Hotel,  Thursday,  April  3;  Do.,  Friday, 
April  4;  Do.,  Saturday,  April  5;  Bairnsdale,  Gipps- 
land, Sunday,  April  6;  Melbourne,  Monday,  April 
7;  Do.,  Tuesday,  April  8;  Melbourne  to  Sydney,  Syd- 
ney', New  South  Wales,  Wednesday  and  Thursday,  April 
9 and  10;  Do.,  Friday,  April  11 ; Do.,  Saturday,  April  12; 
Do.,  Sunday,  April  13 


Page. 


213-280 


AUSTRALIA  CONTINUED— AUSTRALIA  TO  MAKE. 

LETTER  XIV. 

Sy’dney,  Australia,  Monday,  April  14;  Do.,  Tuesday,  April  16; 
Bathurst  and  Sydney,  Wednesday  and  Thursday,  April 
16  and  17 ; Do.,  Friday  and  Saturday,  April  18  and  19  ; Do., 

AND  ON  WAY'  FROM  SYDNEY  TO  BRISBANE  BY  EAIL,  Sun- 
day, April  20;  Sydney  to  Brisbane  by  Rail,  Sunday, 

Monday,  Tuesday,  Wednesday,  Thursday,  April  20,  21,  22, 

23,  24;  Sydney,  Friday,  April  25 280-298 

LETTER  XV. 

Sydney',  Friday,  April  25;  on  board  Steamer  Australien, 
in  Harbor  of  Sydney,  Saturday,  April  26;  on  same 
Steamer,  between  Sydney  and  Melbourne,  Sunday, 

April  27  ; Do.,  Monday,  April  28 ; Do.,  and  at  Melbourne, 

Tuesday,  April  29 ; Do.,  and  between  Melbourne  and 
Adelaide,  Wednesday,  April  30;  Do.,  between  Adel- 
aide AND  King  George  Sound,  Thursday  and  Friday, 

May  1 and  2 ; on  same  Steamer,  Saturday  and  Sunday, 

May  3 and  4;  on  same  Steamer,  and  at  Albany',  West 
Australia,  Monday,  May  5 ; on  same  Steamer,  Indian 
Ocean,  from  Australia  to  the  Sey'chelles,  Tuesday, 

May  6;  on  same  Steamer  and  Ocean,  Wednesday,  May 
7 ; ON  SAME  Ocean  and  Steamer,  Thursday,  May  8 ; on 
same  Do.  and  Do.,  Friday,  May  9;  on  same  Do.  and  Do., 

Saturday,  May  10;  ON  same  Do.  and  Do.,  Sunday,  May  11 ; 

ON  SAME  Do.  and  Do.,  Monday,  May  12;  on  same  Do.  and 
Do.,  Tuesday,  May  13;  on  same  Do.  and  Do.,  Wednesday, 

May  14;  on  same  Do.  and  Do.,  Thursday,  May  15;  on 
SAME  Do.  AND  Do.,  Friday,  May  16;  same  Do.  and  Do., 

Saturday,  May  17;  same  Do.  and  Do.,  Sunday,  May  18; 
same  Do.  and  Do.,  Monday,  May  19 298-337 


CONTENTS. 


XI 


MAKE  TO  NATAL,  via  BOURBON,  MAURITIUS,  AND 
MADAGASCAR. 

LETTER  XVI. 

Page. 

1890.  At  Mahe,  one  of  the  Seychelle  Group,  and  the  Indian 
Ocean,  Steamship  Rio  Grande,  Messageries  Mari- 
TiMES  Line,  Tuesday,  May  20;  on  same  Sea  and  Ship, 
Wednesday,  May  21 ; on  Do.  and  Do.,  Thursday,  May  22; 

ON  SAME  Do.  and  Do.,  and  at  the  Island  of  Bourbon, 

Friday,  May  23;  on  Do.,  and  at  the  Island  of  Mau- 
ritius, Saturday,  May  24 ; Island  of  Mauritius,  Cure- 
pipe,  Sunday,  May  25 ; Do.,  Monday,  May  26 ; Do.,  Port 
Louis,  Tuesday,  May  27;  Do.,  Wednesday,  May  28;  Do., 

AND  Steamship  Dunrobin  Castle,  Donald  Currie  Line, 

Thursday,  May  29;  on  same  Steamer,  Indian  Ocean, 

. Friday,  May  30 ; on  Do.,  and  at  Tamatave,  Madagascar, 

Saturday,  May  31 ; Do.,  Sunday,  June  1 ; on  same  Steam- 
ship AND  Ocean,  Monday  and  Tuesday,  June  2 and  3;  Do. 

AND  Do.,  Wednesday,  June  4;  Do.  and  Do.,  Thursday, 

June  5;  Do.  and  Do.,  Friday,  June  6 337-384 


SOUTH  AFRICA. 

LETTER  XVII. 

D’Urban,  Natal,  Saturday,  June  7 ; Do.,  Sunday,  June  8;  Do., 

Monday,  June  9;  Pietermaritzburg,  Tuesday,  June  10; 

Do.,  Wednesday,  June  li  ; Ladysmith,  Natal,  Thursday, 

June  12;  D’Urban,  Friday,  June  13;  Do.,  Saturday,  June 
14;  Do.,  Sunday,  June  15;  Steamer  Mexican,  Union 
Steamship  Line,  from  Natal  to  Port  Elizabeth, 

ALONG  South  African  Coast,  Monday,  June  16 ; Do.,  and 
AT  East  London,  Tuesday,  June  17 384-408 

LETTER  XVIII. 

Port  Elizabeth,  South  Africa,  Wednesday,  June  18;  Do., 

Thursday,  June  19;  Grahamstown,  Friday,  June  20;  Port 
Elizabeth,  Saturday,  June  21 ; Do.,  Sunday,  June  22 ; Do., 

AND  ON  TRAIN,  FROM  PoRT  ELIZABETH  TO  KiMBERLEY, 

Monday,  June  23 ; Kimberley,  Griqua  Land  West,  Tues- 
day, June  24;  Do.,  Wednesday,  June  25;  Do.,  Thursday, 

June  26;  Do.,  Friday,  June  27;  Do.,  Saturday,  June  28; 

Do.,  Sunday,  June  29 408-434 


Xll 


CONTENTS. 


SOUTH  AFRICA,  CONTINUED— CAPE  TOWN  TO  NEW 
YORK,  via  MADEIRA  AND  ENGLAND. 

LETTER  XIX. 

Page. 

1890.  Kimberley,  South  Africa,  Monday,  June  30;  on  train  from 
Kimberley  to  Care  Town,  and  at  Cape  Town,  Tuesday 
and  Wednesday,  July  1 and  2 ; Do.,  Thursday,  July  3 ; Do., 

Friday,  July  4;  Do.,  Saturday,  July  5;  Do.,  Sunday,  July 
6;  Do.,  Monday,  July  7 ; Do.,  Tuesday,  July  8 [Letters 
FROM  Mr.  Williams  and  Mr.  Seymour,  and  Reports 
WITH  Regard  to  Gold  and  Diamonds  and  their  Min- 
ing] ; on  Steamship  Athenian,  Union  Line,  Wednesday, 

July  9;  ON  same  Steamer,  Thursday,  July  10;  Do.,  Fri- 
day, .July  11;  Do.,  Saturday,  July  12 ; Do.,  Sunday,  July  13 ; 

Do.,  Monday  and  Tuesday,  .July  14  and  15;  Do.,  Wednesday 
and  Thursday,  July  16  and  17 ; Do.,  Friday  and  Saturday, 

July  18  and  19  ; Do.,  Sunday  and  Monday,  July  20  and  21 ; 

Do.,  Tuesday  and  Wednesday,  July  22  and  23 ; Do.,  and  at 
Madeira,  on  same  Steamer,  Thursday,  J^Tiday,  and  Satur- 
day, July  24,  2-5,  and  26;  Do.,  Sunday,  July  27 434-499 

LETTER  XX. 

London,  England,  Charing  Cross  Hotel,  Monday,  July  28 
[Captain  Bainbridge’s  Letter]  ; same  City  and  Hotel, 

Tuesday,  July  29;  Do.,  Wednesday,  July  30;  Southamp- 
ton, England,  Thursday,  July  31 ; Do.,  Friday,  August  1 ; 

Do.,  Saturday,  August  2;  on  Steamer  Werra,  North 
German  Lloyd  Line,  Sunday,  August  3;  Do.,  Monday, 

Tuesday,  and  Wednesday,  August  4,  5,  and  6;  Do.,  Thurs- 
day, Friday,  and  Saturday,  August  7,  8,  and  9 ; Do.,  Sunday 
and  Monday,  August  10  and  11 ; Do.,  and  New  York  City, 

Tuesday,  August  12;  New  York  City,  Wednesday,  August 
13 499-527 

Itinerary 529-532 


Index, 


533-549 


LETTEKS. 


[No.  1.] 


Astor  House,  New  York  City, 

Friday,  November  29,  1889. 


My  Dear  Taylor, — 


Let  this  Letter  be  the  first  Link  in  the  chain,  with  which,  in 
God’s  good  Providence,  I propose  to  girdle  the  World. 

You  know,  I never  start  upon  these  long  tours  without  great 
reluctance.  Travel  has  not  had  the  effect  with  me,  usually  urged 
as  its  result,  of  making  me  restless,  and  filling  me  with  a longing 
for  new  fields  to  explore.  Though,  when  upon  the  wing,  every  day 
and  scene  bring  fresh  pleasure,  it  is  hard  to  break  myself  from  home, 
to  me  the  happiest  place  on  earth.  These  thoughts  I have  had,  and, 
doubtless,  have  expressed  on  previous  Tours. 

Thus  I felt  when  we  parted  at  the  Station  yesterday ; I had  much 
rather  have  gone  back  with  you  and  settled  down  in  quiet  in  the  Old 
House,  where,  to  us  both,  happy  hours  without  number  have  been 
spent. 

Dr.  Mason  and  Margaret  were  at  the  Station  in  Charlestowm  to 
meet  me,  and  the  afternoon  and  evening  were  passed  in  talk,  which 
never  fails  us  when  we  get  together.  Mary  and  Little  Mag  were 
busy  with  a Fair  the  “King’s  Daughters”  were  holding  for  the  benefit 
of  the  children  at  their  Poor-House,  to  make  them  comfortable,  and 
throw  cheer  into  their  Christmas  Time,  when  it  comes ; and  I don’t 
think  the  enjoyment  to  them  in  that  blissful  Season  can  be  any  greater 
than  that  which  seemed  to  come  to  their  friends  in  the  making  ready 
for  it. 


1 


2 


LETTER  NO.  1. 


Margaret  has,  doubtless,  written  you  our  conclusion  with  regard 
to  the  Lot  and  the  Hotel.  I know  of  nothing  our  venerable  place 
wants  more  than  such  an  Institution,  provided  it  is  properly  located 
and  of  suitable  size  and  structure  for  the  needs  and  demands  of  our 
town,  and  I know  nothing  wherein  I can  advance  its  material  inter- 
ests more  than  in  doing  what  I can  to  aid  in  its  construction.  This 
I am  willing  to  do,  both  in  suri’endering  my  objection  to  sell  at  any 
price  the  site,  and  to  take  much  less  than  it  is  worth  ; the  purchasers 
themselves  being  judges.  I trust  this  spirit  and  conclusion  will  be 
appreciated,  and  that  success  may  crown  the  enterprise. 

This  morning  Margaret  gave  me  a six  o’clock  Breakfast,  and  a 
good  one,  and  I left  Charlestown  at  the  regular  hour  and  came 
on  to  Baltimore.  In  that  City  I was  detained  an  hour  or  two — till 
ten  minutes  of  one — when  I,  taking  the  fast  train  at  the  same  Station 
and  occupying  a chair  in  the  Parlor  Car,  had  a comfortable  ride  to 
this  City,  reaching  here  at  six.  I gave  my  Baggage  check  to  the 
Express  Agent  and  walked  to  the  Hotel  which  heads  this  Letter. 

I,  strange  to  say,  met  no  acquaintances  on  the  Road  except  Col. 
O’ Ferrell,  from  Winchester  to  Charlestown.  I had  much  talk  with  a 
gentleman  on  the  Train,  who  was  just  returning  from  the  Pacific 
Coast,  and  I gave  him  my  views  with  regard  to  the  injection  of 
Federal  patronage  and  money  into  our  State,  attempting  to  manipu- 
late the  negroes  to  the  increasing  of  the  Republican  vote — greatly  to 
the  corruption  of  the  negroes  and  their  allies,  and  the  detriment  both 
of  the  Commonwealth  and  the  Republic.  To  which  things  he  had 
nothing  to  say — what  member  of  the  dominant  Party  ever  has  ? in  a 
quiet  talk  like  that. 

Whilst  I was  registering  my  name,  a gentleman  accosted  me, 
introducing  himself  as  Mr,  Starke,  from  Richmond,  We  had  much 
pleasant  talk.  He  was  on  a visit  to  this  City  and  was  about  to  take 
the  train  homeward. 

Same  Hotel  and  City, 

Saturday,  November  30,  1889. 

This  day,  in  its  earlier  hours,  was  spent  in  getting  ready  for  my 
Tour. 

I first  visited  Brown  Brothers  & Co,  and  received  my  Letter  of 
Credit.  My  friend  Mr,  Gillen,  whom  I always  hitherto  met  on  such 
occasions,  I found  was  no  longer  connected  with  the  Bank,  but  had 


NEW  YORK  CITY. 


3 


gone  to  live  and  engage  in  business  in  Denver,  Colorado,  I was 
introduced  to  the  new  Chief  Officer,  a Mr.  Dieli,  I think  they  spelled 
his  name.  Soon  my  affairs  were  adjusted  satisfactorily. 

I went  then  to  look  after  ray  Berth  on  the  Steamship  City  of  Para, 
of  the  Pacific  Mail  S.  S.  Company,  the  Office  of  which  is  at  the  end 
of  Canal  Street  on  North  River.  I having  plenty  of  time,  walked 
there.  The  Agent,  Mr.  Bullay,  with  whom  I had  had  some  corres- 
pondence in  connection  with  the  choice  of  a State-room,  received  me 
most  courteously  and  sent  one  of  his  men  to  show  it  to  me.  I found 
he  had  selected  a Room  upon  the  Upper  Deck — usually  regarded  as 
one  of  the  most  desirable  in  the  ship.  But  not  being  on  the  same 
Deck  with  the  Saloon,  I thought  it  would  be  undesirable  for  me  in 
case  of  rough  weather,  going  up  and  down  a flight  of  steps  to  and 
from  ray  meals.  The  loss  of  my  arm  in  a general  way  has  never 
appeared  to  incommode  me  when  I travel  ; but  I am  always  careful 
not  to  expose  myself  unnecessarily,  for  any  injury  to  the  other  would 
compel  me  to  give  up  the  prosecution  of  my  journey  and  submit  my- 
self to  be  taken  home. 

Mr.  Bullay  said  he  appreciated  my  carefulness;  but  his  ability  to 
provide  for  me  was  limited  now,  as  the  vessel  would  be  crowded ; 
he,  however,  would  do  the  best  he  could,  and  assigned  me  another 
Room  on  the  Lower  or  Saloon  Deck,  The  crowd,  he  feared,  would 
render  it  impossible  for  him  to  give  me  the  Room  to  myself — I 
would  be  compelled  to  occupy  it  with  a companion.  I saw  and  had 
it  assigned  to  me,  hoping  no  partner  would  appear. 

By  this  time  the  morning  hours  were  consumed,  and  having 
arranged  all  my  affairs,  I determined  to  spend  the  afternoon  at  the 
Broadway  Theatre  in  seeing  Edwin  Booth  and  Modjeska  in  Hamlet. 
You  know  it  is  on  Broadway  and  41st  Street,  a long  way  up,  but 
not  being  hurried  I walked  it,  enjoying,  as  is  my  wont,  the  people 
and  the  shop- windows. 

The  Theatre  is  a very  fine  Auditorium,  and  the  Drama  was  put 
superbly  upon  the  boards,  and  a large  assembly  greeted  the  Actors. 
Modjeska  did  her  part  admirably,  and  her  Ophelia-mad  displayed 
high  art.  She  is  striking-looking  now,  and  in  her  youth  must  have 
been  handsome.  Booth  again  disappointed  me.  This,  you  will  recall, 
he  has  done  before  of  late.  Hamlet  is  a marvellous  character,  and 
tests  the  myriad  powers  of  the  Dramatist,  till  in  the  multitude  of 
glorious  things  he  makes  Hamlet  say,  the  world  is  left  in  doubt 


4 


LETTER  NO.  1. 


whether  he  assumes,  or,  in  “ wild  frenzy,”  wanders.  Booth  did 
not  fill  the  conception  either  way.  ‘ He  wanted  that  subtle,  quiet 
power  which  makes  Hamlet  stand  out  such  a wonderful  yet  curious 
creation.  Booth’s  quiet  was  not  strong.  It  was  the  quiet  of  a feeble, 
or  languid  or  lazy  man,  rather  than  of  a giant  in  restraint.  I am 
afraid  Booth  is  spoiled  with  the  flattery  he  has  received — if  he  ever 
had  the  power.  His  enunciation  was  so  imperfect  that,  though  I had 
a good  seat,  I scarce  heard  half  he  said,  and  had  I not  known  the 
Drama  well,  it  would  often  have  been  simple  pantomime. 

When  the  performance  was  over,  and  I left  the  Theatre,  towards 
dusk,  the  tlu’ongs  which  filled  the  Street,  hurrying  hither  and  thither, 
impressed  me  with  the  magnitude  of  the  big  Metropolis.  ^ 

I came  to  the  Hotel  on  street-car  and  did  not  again  go  out. 

Same  City  and  Hotel, 

Sunday,  December  1,  1889. 

This  morning  I took  a Broadway  street-car  and  went  up  to  Fifty- 
fifth  street  and  then  walked  across  to  Fifth  Avenue,  looking  for  Rev. 
Dr.  John  Hall’s  Church.  I found  it  on  the  corner  of  these  two 
streets;  but  it  being  much  before  the  hour  of  opening  for  the  Morning 
Service,  I walked  on — not  far  away — to  Central  Park,  and  lingered 
there  some  time ; the  day  clear  and  delightful  for  walking ; better 
than  yesterday,  which  was  bleak  and  now  and  then  spitting  snow. 
I looked  in  upon  the  animals  in  the  Park  Menagerie,  and  then  came 
back  to  the  Church,  by  which  time  eleven  o’clock  had  arrived — the 
hour  of  opening. 

Strangers  are  not  seated  until  after  the  first  Prayer  : then  the  Pew- 
holders  are  supposed  to  have  occupied  their  seats,  and  ushers  politely 
fill  the  vacant  places.  I was  shown  one  near  the  centre  of  the 
church,  good  both  for  seeing  and  hearing.  The  edifice  is  handsome, 
finished  in  oak  : the  Pulpit  very  spacious — above  it  the  Organ,  and 
a projecting  Balcony  where  the  Clerk  stands  and  in  old-fashioned 
style  leads  the  singing,  which  is  purely  Congregational.  The  audi- 
ence looked  solid  and  substantial,  as  if  well  fed  upon  the  Catechism 
and  Confession.  It  is  said  to  be  one  of  the  richest  Churches  in  New 
York.  Dr.  Hall  is  a burly,  healthy  looking,  bald-headed  man, 
and  wears  the  black  Gown  when  preaching.  He  is  an  Irishman,  I 
hear,  but  looks  more  like  a Scotchman.  He  has  a slight  accent, 


NEW  YORK  CITY. 


5 


which  is  Irish ; but  the  texture  of  his  mind  and  his  modes  are 
Scotch — Scotch-Irish,  doubtless. 

His  Sermon — more  of  an  address  than  sermon — was  practical,  in 
behalf  of  Home  Missions,  and  hardly  gave  a full  idea  of  his  powers. 
I should,  however,  from  his  outgivings  to-day,  infer  that  he  is  a strong 
man.  But  he  gave  no  evidence  of  Irish  enthusiasm  and  eloquence — 
rather  of  Scotch  intensity  and  force.  The  Church  and  its  handsome 
architecture,  and  the  large  audience,  from  its  evidently  excellent 
acoustic  properties  within  range  of  the  speaker’s  voice,  ought  to  have 
stirred  to  fever  heat,  had  there  been  any  fire  in  his  veins.  There  is 
nothing  sensational  about  him ; nothing  of  the  Beecher  or  Talmadge 
style  ; but  rather  of  the  sober,  solid  kind,  which  lasts  the  longer,  and 
in  the  lapse  of  years,  does  not  so  much  amuse,  as  educate. 

One  thing  he  said,  in  connection  with  his  theme,  which  taught  a 
Lesson  he  did  not  intend.  He  spoke  of  Syracuse,  one  of  New  York’s 
Cities,  growing  of  late  to  a hundred  thousand  inhabitants,  and  mainly 
from  the  surrounding  regions — people  moving  in  from  the  country. 
In  this  movement  at  least  fifty  Churches  were  robbed  of  their 
membership  and  support,  and  from  well-to-do  and  self-supporting 
organizations  became  reduced  and  poor,  needing  the  help  of  the  Home 
Missionary  Cause.  Independent  of  the  Religious  view  of  this  ques- 
tion, how  serious  is  its  Political,  to  which  the  Preacher  did  not 
allude.  It  shows  a decadence  in  the  farming  interests,  and  a change 
of  pursuits  and  population  from  the  Rural  to  the  Metropolitan,  which 
will  have  a most  serious  influence  upon  the  future  character  of  our 
people.  The  simple  days  and  ways  which  made  the  glory  of  the 
Republic,  as  it  did  that  of  Ancient  Rome,  whence  armies  and  their 
commanders  came  for  defence  against  foreign  foes,  and  for  the  con- 
quest of  foreign  peoples,  will  pass  into  a state  in  which  force  will  be 
needed  to  keep  the  Peace  among  its  own. 

This  idea  was  strengthened  when  I recalled  what  I had  seen  in 
upper  Broadway,  and  witnessed  in  Fifth  Avenue  and  other  parallel 
and  cross  streets  in  this  part  of  the  City  : the  vast  number  and  mag- 
nificence of  the  Hotels  and  private  residences  gone  and  going  up, 
and  evidently  increasing  in  number  and  splendor  from  year  to  year, 
showing  how  wealth,  attracted  thither  from  every  part  of  the  Conti- 
nent, is  making  Materialism  triumphant.  Yesterday,  I saw  the  rest- 
less tide  of  a Cosmopolitan  population  ; to-day,  when  the  Churches 
emptied  their  contents,  I saw  the  ^lite  in  gay  apparel — and  how 


6 


LETTER  NO.  1. 


gorgeous  and  bright  they  seemed  ! — but  not  of  the  sort  that  “ consti- 
tute a State.” 

I walked  down  to  Madison  Square,  and  from  Church  went  to  see  the 
Gallery,  where  The  Angelus  of  Millet,  the  perfection  of  which  in  Art 
is  estimated  by  a sale  for  more  than  one  hundred  thousand  dollars  ; 
and  a collection  of  Barye’s  works  in  Bronze — the  latter  I enjoyed 
exceedingly.  I have  often  enjoyed  many  of  his  works  before  in  the 
Corcoran  Gallery  in  Washington,  and  wished  I had  some  of  them  at 
home  ; especially  his  subtle  appreciation  of  the  nature  of  Beasts,  and 
his  equally  accurate  and  subtle  knowledge  of  their  structure,  which 
he  blends  into  a representation  that  appears  the  very  consummation 
of  Art. 

The  Angelus  I was  not  carried  away  with  ; a projection  of  the 
power  of  Devotion  : a rustic  youth  and  maiden  meet  in  rustic  dress 
and  style  in  the  open  field, — he  standing  with  his  hat  in  both  his 
hands,  she  with  hers  clasped  before  her,  a short  distance  from  each 
other,  both  looking  reverentially  towards  the  ground;  the  Sun  with 
exceeding  beauty  lights  her  brow  and  the  distant  sky,  and  reveals  the 
strange  radiance  which,  in  the  act  of  worship,  blends  their  being  into 
one.  The  figures  are  by  no  means  beautiful ; but  the  lights  and 
shadows  are  exquisite.  It  is  a small  picture,  not  more  than  two 
or  three  feet  square,  and  I think  the  reflection  of  the  one  hundred 
thousand  dollars  or  more  has  much  to  do  with  exciting  the  admiration 
of  the  world.  If  I have  time  to-morrow  I will  run  up  and  see  it  again. 

Whilst  looking  at  it,  I felt  a touch  upon  my  shoulder;  I turned, 
and  it  was  Mrs.  Kate  Small.  She  called  her  husband  and  step- 
daughter and  we  had  a pleasant  meeting.  Mr.  Small  and  I had 
much  chat.  They  are  only  on  a short  visit  to  the  City. 

On  my  return  to  the  Hotel,  and  whilst  writing  these  lines.  Gaunt 
Crebs,  John  Hummer’s  son,  sent  up  his  card.  I invited  him  to  my 
Room  and  we  had  a good  deal  of  talk.  He  is  here  on  business  in 
connection  with  the  construction  of  a Rail  Road  in  Tennessee,  on 
which  he  is  a Contractor.  Tell  John  he  is  very  well,  and  hopeful 
of  coming  profits. 

Charles’  Letter,  with  your  endorsement,  reached  me  safely  to-day. 
Of  course,  though  but  a little  while  from  home,  I was  glad  to  get  it. 
I hope  the  subject-matter  of  which  you  write  may  turn  out  well,  and 
you  may  be  enabled  to  rent  the  entire  building  to  your  satisfaction. 
Be  sure  to  tell  me  everything. 


NEW  YORK  CITY. 


7 


To  Charles : Our  Letters  passed  each  other  on  the  way.  I wrote 
just  before  I left,  and  said  then  to  you  and  all  what  I can  say  no 
better  now.  I cannot  hear  from  you  and  my  dear  home  people  again 
till  I reach  San  Francisco.  I hope  when  I get  there,  your  Letters, 
crossing  the  Continent  by  faster  routes,  will  greet  me  like  flights  of 
Birds,  bearing  sweetest  tidings. 

And  now,  Good  Bye  ! I will  close  this  and  mail  it  in  the  morn- 
ing. I will  send  you  another  Letter  from  Aspinwall,  and  again 
upon  my  arrival  in  San  Francisco.  But  you  all  must  keep  writing 
every  week  to  Care  of  Bank  of  California,  in  that  City,  and  I will 
have  a joyous  time  in  reading  them  in  bulk. 

Affectionately, 

F. 

Monday,  December  2. — The  day  opens  beautifully,  and  promises  a 
prosperous  voyage.  The  Ship  leaves  at  twelve  o’clock  M. 


[No.  2.J 


Steamee  City  of  Paea, 

Pacific  Mail  S.  S.  Line, 

Monday,  December  2,  1889. 


My  Dear  Margaret, — 


I mailed  at  the  Astor  House  in  New  York  this  morning  Letter 
No.  1,  to  Taylor,  just  before  my  departure  thence  to  take  the  Steamer 
City  of  Para,  bound  for  Aspinwall  or  Colon. 

I had  plenty  of  time.  Getting  a carriage,  I drove  to  the  Pier  at 
the  west  end  of  Canal  Street,  and  deposited  my  Baggage  in  the  State- 
room that  had  been  assigned  me.  Mr.  Bullay  said  he  had  done  his 
best  to  keep  the  Room  for  my  sole  occupancy  : the  crowd,  however, 
was  so  great  that  he  found  it  impossible,  and  was  compelled  to  give 
me  a mate ; but  he  was  a nice  fellow,  an  apothecary  from  Panama 
on  his  way  home.  I thanked  him  for  his  kindness,  and  told  him  I 
could  fit  myself  to  any  condition ; and  had  long  since  found,  that 
one’s  comfort  depends  much  upon  himself  and  his  detei’mination  to 


8 


LETTER  NO.  2. 


be  agreeable  and  pleasant.  Mr.  Bullay  introduced  me  to  Captain 
Lockwood  of  the  City  of  Para,  who  wished  me  a prosperous  and 
happy  voyage  with  him. 

Stowing  my  Baggage  safely  in  my  Room,  I went  up  town  to  take 
another  look  at  Barye’s  Bronzes,  and  the  famous  Angelus  of  Millet. 
The  Bronzes  kejJt  on  exciting  ray  interest  and  admiration,  in  the 
manner  and  degree  they  have  ever  done  since  I first  saw  them  in 
Corcoran’s  Gallery.  This  Exhibition  of  the  Art  Association  has  for 
its  object  the  building  of  Memorials  to  Barye  and  Alillet,  both  of 
whom  passed  away  before  their  fame  culminated  in  the  marvellous 
manner  in  which  it  has  of  late  years  done : during  their  life  selling  their 
works  for  daily  bread — now  commanding  prices  which  astound  by  their 
seeming  extravagance.  Barye’s  works  are  collections  from  Private 
Galleries — principally  W.  T.  Walters  of  Baltimore.  The  Angelus 
is  owned  by  the  American  Art  Association,  bought  at  auction  in 
Paris  recently  for  one  hundred  and  twenty  thousand  dollars,  or  there- 
abouts. 

On  a hasty  view,  one  might  mistake  the  sentiment  of  the  Picture. 
Without  knowing  the  Artist’s  design,  it  might  be  taken  for  another 
case  of  “Coming  through  the  Rye!”;  or,  deeper  still,  the  forecast 
of  a future  “John  Anderson!  my  Joe!”  But  the  idea  is  not  of 
personal  love,  but  of  Religious  Devotion.  The  youth  and  maiden 
are  working  in  the  field,  and  there  comes  to  them  the  Angelus,  the 
Vesper  chime  from  the  distant  Church.  They  stop  their  labor  and 
lay  down  the  implements  of  toil,  and  the  artist  represents  them  in 
rustic  style,  and  with  bowed  forms,  in  humblest  devotion,  recognizing 
the  supremacy  of  the  Call,  whilst  the  setting  Sun  lights  up  especially 
the  maiden’s  face,  with  a radiance  from  above.  The  exceeding  sim- 
plicity of  the  painting  grows  upon  you.  Yet,  after  this  second  view, 
it  does  not  impress  with  the  import  of  its  fame;  not  like,  for  instance, 
the  Sistine  Madonna,  which,  in  a crowded  Gallery,  would  arrest  the 
passer-by,  whether  simple  or  cultivated.  T think  this  Angelas  might 
be  passed  many  times  in  such  a place  and  not  be  observed. 

Excuse  this  rather  long,  but  necessarily  hasty  story  of  my  inter- 
view with  The  Angelus;  I would  not  have  bothered  you  with  it 
at  all  save  that  it  is  one  of  the  greatest,  if  not  the  greatest,  painting 
of  the  century,  in  the  estimate  of  many,  who  ought  to  know. 

When  I returned  to  the  Ship  my  room-mate  had  arrived.  He 
saluted  me  with  great  politeness  and  courtesy  : a small  man  of  sandy 


STEAMER  CITY  OF  PARA. 


9 


hair  and  ruddy  complexion,  with  good  features  and  expression,  wear- 
ing a beaver  hat  like  my  own,  and  an  overcoat,  buttoned  up.  He 
said  he  lived  in  Panama,  though  a native  of  Texas,  and  promised  to 
give  me  no  trouble  as  a room-mate,  save  that  he  was  a subject  of 
sea-sickness,  which  he  greatly  regretted  both  on  his  own  account  and 
mine.  I admit  I was  mighty  sorry  too  in  anticipation,  especially  as 
I could  not  pay  him  back  in  kind,  not  being  subject  to  that  affliction. 

I strolled  out  on  Deck  to  observe  the  getting  ready  for  departure, 
always  an  interesting  sight  when  one  of  these  big  ships  swings  out 
from  her  moorings  for  a long  voyage.  On  returning  to  my  Room  a 
strange  individual  occupied  the  apartment,  seemingly  fixing  himself 
up.  I did  not  recognize  him  at  first,  but  when  he  saluted  me  in 
his  usual  cordial  style,  I saw  it  was  my  friend,  the  apothecary — Dr. 
Charles  H.  Utter,  a card,  which  he  handed  me,  signified — completely 
metamorphosed.  His  hair,  hitherto  pinned  under  his  beaver,  now 
flowed  over  his  shoulders  in  ringlets,  tastefully  dressed,  crowned  by 
a Mexican  sombrero,  with  cord  and  tassel.  His  shirt  bosom  of  spot- 
less white  was  adorned  with  three  immense  Breastpins  of  precious 
stones — a crescent,  a maltese  cross,  and  a square — whilst  his  gold 
watchchaiu,  set  with  jewels,  hung  across  his  waistcoat  like  a cable. 
No  wonder  I did  not  know  my  friend  ; nor  did  I any  more  recognize 
his  hands,  now  weighted  with  many  rings,  of  Diamonds  and  Rubies 
and  Pearls  and  such  like — the  girls  would  say,  “ awful  lovely.”  I 
have  in  my  travels  had  many  room-mates,  but  none  so  imposing  in 
his  way  as  this.  During  the  whole  time,  however,  he  has  borne 
himself  like  a gentleman,  and  most  agreeably. 

The  day  continued  beautiful,  and  the  Sea  unruffled ; the  great 
Vessel  moving  without  a roll  or  tremor,  quite  remarkable  for  the 
Atlantic  at  this  usually  tempestuous  season. 

Same  Steamship, 

Ttiesday,  December  3,  1889. 

The  weather  continues  fine,  and  we  have  gone  swiftly  and  smoothly 
on.  Towards  evening  the  waves  made  the  Vessel  a little  unsteady — 
pleasant  motion  to  me,  provocative  of  unrest  to  many  of  the  passen- 
gers, who  lay  about  wounded,  especially  my  Apothecary  friend,  whose 
anticipations  were  early  realized.  He  soon  fled  to  his  berth,  and 
therefrom  never  came  any  more  during  the  day.  His  profession  told 
somewhat, — only  slightly,  however,  and  the  faintest  odor  of  that 


10 


LETTER  NO.  2. 


curious  compound  which  belongs  to  the  Apothecary  shop  was  exhaled 
in  our  little  apartment.  My  friend,  unknown,  of  course,  to  himself, 
is  a diminutive,  but  highly  ornamented,  “Shotekery  Pop.” 

At  Dinner  to-day  our  seats  were  permanently  assigned;  mine  I 
found  to  be  the  one  of  honor  by  the  Captain’s  side.  When  I was 
about  to  sit  down,  a gentleman  opposite  remarked,  that  he  could 
not  be  mistaken,  he  had  seen  me  in  Lima,  and  that  Mr.  Neill,  the 
Secretary  of  Legation  to  Peru,  and  I stopped  at  his  Brewery  on  one 
occasion  and  we  drank  a glass  of  Beer  together.  I recognized  Mr. 
Backus,  and  we  had  a cordial  meeting.  You  will  remember,  Neill 
and  I stopjjed  there  on  our  walk  to  the  top  of  San  Christ obal.  Mr. 
Backus  introduced  me  to  a gentleman  by  his  side — Mr.  Thorndyke — 
whom  I had  never  met  before,  but  whom  I knew  all  about  iu  Peruvian 
Railroad  matters.  You  remember,  when  I arrived  at  Mollendo — 
pronounced  Molyendo — Mr.  Griffith  met  and  took  me  to  Mr.  Thorn- 
dyke’s  house — a beautiful  home  outlooking  upon  the  Ocean ; and 
how,  when  I got  to  Arequipa,  Mr.  McCord,  Mr.  Thorndyke’s  friend 
and  Manager,  conferred  upon  me  many  courtesies.  Mr.  Thorndyke 
was  then  in  Europe ; but  he  heard  of  these  things,  and  we  at  once 
knew  each  other. 

These  two  gentlemen  are  now  returning  from  the  States  to  Peru. 
We  had  much  interesting  talk  about  that  most  interesting,  but  un- 
happy, Country.  They  informed  me  that  the  contract  of  which  I 
told  you  when  there  had  been  perfected ; and  it  was  now  for  the 
future  to  decide  whether  that  could  lift  Peru  out  of  her  many  woes. 
I wrote  you  so  much  of  this  matter  in  the  story  of  my  last  Tour  I 
will  say  nothing  more  now. 

Walking  the  Deck  this  afternoon  I met  a Mr.  John  Tod,  a Scotch- 
man, on  his  way  to  California,  where  he  proposes  to  settle  in  the 
Napa  or  Russia  River  Valley,  and  engage  iu  some  agricultural  pursuit. 
Great  Britain’s  nursery  is  so  full,  that  shaking  it  out  continually,  she 
fills  the  earth  with  her  progeny.  This  is  a sensible,  well-mannered 
specimen,  and  we  had  a good  deal  of  talk  about  his  Empire  and  her 
affairs. 

Same  Steamship, 

Wednesday  and  Thursday,  December  4 and  5,  1889. 

These  two  days  have  passed  pleasantly ; a North  wind  helped  us, 
and  we  sped  towards  warmer  skies  and  bluer  waters.  We  passed 
Virginia  and  the  Carolinas,  and  are  abreast  of  Georgia ; to-morrow 


STEAMER  CITY  OF  PARA. 


11 


we  will  pass  the  Tropic  Line.  Sensibly  we  feel  the  change  of 
temperature  now,  from  hour  to  hour.  The  canvass  awning  has  been 
spread  over  the  Deck,  and  in  a little  while  we  will  be  sorry  it  is  not 
cooler. 

The  Captain  tells  me  he  is  a New  York  Democrat,  and  rejoices  in 
our  late  victory,  and  is  unstinted  in  his  denunciation  of  the  Repub- 
lican Party  and  its  Leaders,  and  praises  of  our  Southern  People. 
He  says  we  are  growing  stronger  from  year  to  year,  and  in  a time 
not  far  distant,  will  again  dominate,  both  by  our  genius,  and  fast- 
coming wealth.  It  is  quite  refreshing  to  listen  to  such  talk  from  a 
Northern  source. 

At  my  side  at  Table  sits  a Lady  from  New  York  City,  and  I am 
under  the  impression  is  a Mrs.  Winter,  the  wife  of  Wm.  Winter, 
one  of  the  Editors  of  the  Tribune.  I tell  my  Captain-friend  he  must 
be  careful  how  he  talks  in  such  a presence,  lest  he  offend  or  wound ; 
but  he  simply  says  he  would  not,  of  course,  wilfully  do  that — but, 
“them’s  his  sentiments.”  He  tells  me  Hal.  Delaney  was  with  him 
a short  time  ago,  with  a young  friend,  on  their  way  to  Bogota ; but 
they  could  not  ascend  the  Magdalena  River  on  account  of  the  low 
stage  of  water  and  came  back  and  took  a French  or  English  Steamer 
to  Europe. 

I have  had  more  talk  with  my  Scotch  friend.  Tod.  He  lived 
eighteen  months  in  Jamaica,  and  was  not  hopeful  of  the  outcome 
there  of  the  Negro  question.  He  thinks  they  are  retrograding,  and 
will  in  time,  when  the  white  blood  is  clean  gone  or  driven  out, 
lapse  into  Barbarism.  The  Island — whose  name  means  the  Land  of 
Fountains — of  luxuriant  productiveness  and  wealth  and  beauty — will 
not,  cannot,  lift  the  poor  Negro  up — but  both  ere  long  will  recede  to 
savagery. 

To-morrow  we  will  be  among  the  Bahamas,  and  will  see  the  first 
Land  which  enraptured  Columbus  and  his  followers,  and  satisfied 
the  hopes  of  the  great  Navigator,  and  calmed  the  apprehension  of 
his  comrades.  Already  the  debris  of  the  Sargasso  Sea  has  been  float- 
ing about  us  for  many  hours, — a phenomenon  you  will  recall  which 
aroused  conflicting  emotions  in  the  minds  of  the  adventurers. 

My  Dr.  Room-mate  left  his  cot  for  the  first  time  this  afternoon, 
and  appeared  apparelled  gorgeously.  He  has  borne  his  sickness 
bravely,  and  has  not  for  one  moment  been  otherwise  than  agreeable 
and  gentlemanly.  He  has  not  in  any  way  marred  my  comfort.  The 


12 


LETTER  NO.  S. 


“ Shotekery  Pop  ” fragrance  has  entirely  departed,  or  my  olfactories 
have  adjusted  themselves  to  it.  I am  only  sony  I cannot  lend  him 
my  sea-stomach  and  legs. 

My  intention  was  when  I left,  yon  remember,  to  mail  this  in 
Colon.  I learn  now  that  if  the  weather  permits  we  stop  for  mail 
at  Fortune  Island.  If  so,  I will  drop  this  there,  that  it  may  hurry 
back  to  you  witli  the  news  thus  far.  It  will  reach  you  two  weeks 
sooner  than  from  the  Isthmus.  I will  mail  you  a Letter  there  also. 

I will  stop  now,  till  that  information  can  be  obtained.  If  the 
Vessel  should  not  halt,  I will  continue  this;  if  it  should,  and  I can 
put  it  on  the  wing.  Letter  No.  3 will  continue  the  story. 

I will  any  way  conclude  this  now  and  wait. 

With  teuderest  love  for  all, 

F. 


On  Steamship  City  of  Paea, 

Friday  and  Saturday,  December  6 cmd  7,  1889. 

From  the  paging,  you  perceive  that  I did  not  succeed  in  despatch- 
ing a Letter  at  Fortune  Island.  This,  therefore,  is  a continuation  of 
No.  2. 

It  was  in  the  afternoon  of  December  5 I ended  that  day’s  doings 
and  prepared  it  to  await  our  coming  to  Fortune  Island,  giving  it  to 
the  Purser  to  put  off,  should  there  be  a landing  there. 

When  the  Sun  went  down,  I sat  on  Deck  for  several  hours,  and 
watched  the  doings  of  the  Moon.  The  scene  was  worthy  of  my 
trouble.  The  sky  was  deep  blue  like  the  sea,  and  floating  clouds 
swept  over  it,  which  the  Moon,  now  near  the  full,  made  use  of  for 
her  purposes,  and  right  royal  was  her  Dominion.  Sometimes  she 
lighted  up  the  high  and  rugged  banks  of  clouds  till  they  looked  like 
ranges  of  snow-clad  mountains.  Sometimes  she  threw  these  into  the 
shade,  converting  them  to  wild  forests  and  rocks,  with  here  and  there 
a fierce  Castle,  whilst  the  foothills  of  the  elevations  on  which  they 
stood  seemed  sheeted  with  fresh-fallen  snow ; sometimes  wiping  all 
out  she  herself  ruled  supreme  and  ])aled  the  Ocean  floor  of  her  audi- 
ence chamber  with  pure  beaten  silver.  I have  seen  Sunsets  in  the 
Tropics,  of  gorgeousness  beyond  the  range  of  pen  or  pencil — one  espe- 
cially of  which  I remember  on  my  voyage  to  South  America,  and  of 


STEAMER  CITY  OF  PARA. 


13 


which  I told  yon  something.  This  was  the  finest  exhibition  of  the 
Moon’s  powers  I have  ever  seen.  It  was  wonderful  how  much  she 
accomplished  with  a single  color.  The  Sun  had  at  his  command  all 
the  colors  of  the  prism : the  Moon  made  the  glory  with  her  silver 
rays  alone,  charming,  like  Paganini’s  music,  from  a single  string. 

The  Ocean  continues  all  one  could  wish — yesterday  with  white  caps 
sparkling  ujjon  his  deep  blue  surface — to-day  no  caps  anywhere — 
his  bosom  simply  heaving  gently  from  the  Ship  as  a centre,  ofF  with- 
out break  to  the  distant  sky — often  in  certain  shades,  the  blue  is 
changed  to  richest  purple,  and  hither  and  thither  the  flying  fish,  like 
flocks  of  tiny  birds,  skim  the  waves  from  crest  to  crest.  We  seem 
to  be,  most  of  the  time,  so  far  from  Land  that  few  birds  have  come 
out  to  greet  us. 

At  one  o’clock  or  thereabouts  on  Friday  we  passed  the  Tropic  Line. 
Since  then  we  have  been  entitled  to  torrid  heats ; but  they  have  not 
come.  The  temperature  has  been  delicious,  night  and  day.  It  is 
the  Sun’s  own  home,  but  we  fend  his  rays  with  the  canvass  awning ; 
and  when  he  retires,  and  the  Moon  “ takes  up  the  wondrous  tale,” 
he  leaves  behind  him  no  reminder  of  his  fierceness ; all  day  and 
night,  too,  the  Trade  Winds  come  with  cheering,  healthful  breath, 
and  tell  of  their  blessed  provision  in  these  spheres  for  keeping  men 
alive  and  happy. 

We  passed  San  Salvador  during  the  forenoon  of  Friday  also : but 
too  far  to  be  seen  even  with  the  glass ; and  in  the  afternoon.  Crooked, 
or  Bird  Rock  Island,  from  one  of  whose  points  the  Lighthouse  stood 
out  conspicuously,  and  at  dusk  came  to  Fortune  Island,  where  we 
hoped  to  land  our  Letters.  The  Captain  halted  the  Ship,  and  hoisted 
signals;  but  no  boat  come  out — he  thought,  he  told  me,  because  the 
breakers  were  running  too  high  along  the  shore;  thus  the  pages  already 
written  will  have  to  bide  their  time  with  these. 

These  Islands,  called  the  Bahamas,  are  low-lying,  and  English 
possessions.  Of  late  years,  an  effort  has  been  made  to  utilize  them 
by  the  cultivation  of  the  Aloe,  for  the  manufacture  of  Sisal  Hemp,  a 
good  deal  about  which  I told  you  on  my  First  Tour,  in  connection 
with  my  visit  to  Yucatan,  of  which  Country  it  is  the  chief  and  most 
valuable  production. 

Last  night  we  passed  Castle  Island,  when  we  were  all  abed.  It  is 
of  little  import  and,  therefore,  not  much  was  lost.  During  the  night 
my  Room-mate,  who  by  this  time  has  recovered  his  Sea-legs,  and 


14 


LETTER  NO.  S. 


goes  about  regardless,  came  in  after  I had  retired,  and  waking  me 
up,  said  we  had  stopped — something  had  gone  wrong  with  the 
machinery.  It  only  disturbed  me  for  a moment;  I soon  fell  asleep 
again.  In  the  morning  the  Captain  informed  me  that  it  was  of  small 
concern,  and  only  detained  us  a few  hours. 

We  sighted  Cuba  about  ten  o’clock  this  morning — Satui’day — 
and  for  four  or  five  hours  were  approaching  and  passing  its  Eastern 
extremity — Cape  Maysi.  A fine  view  of  the  Antilles’  Queen  was 
presented  for  many  miles,  stretching  North-west  to  South-east.  The 
Northern  shore  is  flat,  rising  thence  gradually — or  in  Mesas — to  the 
summit  of  considerable  hills,  which  seem  to  constitute  the  Island’s 
vertebrae.  Cape  Maysi  projects  itself  like  a point ; a portion  of 
which  is  flat,  and  a portion  high  bluff  or  hill.  The  vertebrae,  of  which 
I have  spoken,  came  down  on  the  North  more  abruptly  to  the  Sea. 
The  whole  is  covered  with  vegetation,  not  cultivated,  from  its 
appearance,  and  few  habitations  visible,  but  of  undergrowth,  out 
of  which  larger  trees  frequently  rise.  The  whole  view,  from  its 
varied  outline  and  verdant  aspect,  is  one  not  unworthy  of  Cuba’s 
reputation.  There  was  a Lighthouse,  but  no  sign  of  habitations 
otherwise,  and  we  made  no  halt.  Santiago  is  on  the  South,  but  we 
did  not  sight  it. 

Though  traversing  one  of  what  might  be  called  the  Ocean’s 
thoroughfares,  we  have  seen  since  we  left  New  York  only  two 
Steamers  and  two  sailing  Vessels ; one  of  the  former  of  this  Line — 
the  Newport — going  Northward.  The  Captain  tells  me  we  will 
meet  the  Colon  to-niglit ; the  Steamer,  you  remember,  I returned  in 
from  Aspinwall  on  my  South  American  Tour, 

Towards  Sundown  we  saw  Hayti  on  our  East,  rising  conspicuously, 
with  greater  elevations  than  those  which  Cuba  showed. 

Same  Ship, 

Sunday  and  Monday,  December  8 and  9,  1889. 

On  Sunday  we  had  the  reading  of  the  Episcopal  Service  by  the 
Surgeon  of  the  Ship.  A few  attended  in  the  Saloon.  The  eight  or 
ten  Catholic  Priests  we  have  on  board  seemed  to  go  off  together 
somewhere,  and  maybe  had  some  kind  of  service.  There  is  a Bishop 
among  them,  I hear ; none  of  them  speak  English,  and  my  wish  to 
talk  upon  the  affairs  of  their  church  cannot  be  gratified.  I regret 


STEAMER  CITY  OF  PARA. 


15 


this,  because  I have  many  things  concerning  which  I would  like  to 
make  inquiry,  about  what  I have  observed  of  their  church  in  different 
parts  of  the  world. 

These  two  days  have  gone  like  the  others,  with  suiToundings  of 
perpetual  peace  and  beauty.  Surely  no  Ship  ever  made  her  Voyage 
along  this  whole  line,  from  New  York  to  Aspinwall,  under  happier 
auspices.  Both  the  Atlantic  and  the  Caribbean  have  behaved  their 
best — the  Sun  helping  by  day  and  the  Moon  by  night — the  Trades 
never  resting.  I have  made  many  acquaintances  among  the  passen- 
gers, and  have  had  many  talks.  Everyone,  so  far,  is  a Democrat, 
rejoicing  in  our  late  Victory  with  an  enthusiasm  equal  to  our  own; 
and  denouncing  the  Administration  and  its  puppet  in  Virginia  with  a 
bitterness  we  would  not  desire  to  see  surpassed.  Among  them  is  the 
Captain,  with  whom  I have  had  much  intercourse,  and  who  never 
hesitates  to  give  expression  to  his  views  in  true  sailor  style.  He  has 
been  very  courteous  and  attentive  to  me,  and  says  he  will  give  me  a 
Letter  to  the  Captain  of  the  Ship  on  the  other  side,  that  I may  have 
a good  Room  assigned  me,  and  have  a pleasant  and  profitable  voyage 
along  the  Coast  to  San  Francisco. 

Whilst  writing,  one  of  the  Catholic  Priests  has  come  and  taken 
his  seat  by  my  side  to  use  the  ship’s  inkstand  in  writing.  He  is  the 
best  looking  of  the  set.  I addressed  him  in  English,  to  which  he 
responded  in  the  same.  I thought  the  time  had  come  I desired. 
He  told  me  he  was  the  recently  appointed  Bishop  of  San  Salvador, 
and  he  and  the  other  Priests  were  going  there  now  to  live.  But  my 
hopes  were  soon  dissipated  : I found  he  spoke  English  so  imperfectly 
that  no  conversation  could  be  carried  on  with  him  upon  the  subjects 
of  which  I wished  to  inquire. 

I will  close  this  Letter  now.  We  expect  to  reach  Aspinwall 
to-morrow  morning  early — probably  by  daylight.  I may  be  hurried 
then  in  getting  ready  to  cross  the  Isthmus,  and  may  have  no  time  to 
spare  to  finish  it.  It  will,  therefore,  be  a long  time  before  you  hear 
again;  for  I shall  not  reach  San  Francisco  till  the  first  of  January; 
and  when  I mail  it,  which  I shall  do  immediately  on  my  arrival 
there,  it  will  take  a week  to  travel  to  you  across  the  Continent. 

But  I hope  many  letters  from  you  all  will  greet  me  in  that  City, 
gathered  there,  awaiting  my  advent. 

With  tenderest  love  for  all, 

F. 


16 


LETTER  NO.  3. 


Give  my  love  to  Cousin  Mary,  and  tell  her  to  send  me,  if  but  a 
line,  to  ovei'take  me  in  my  wanderings. 

I suppose  John  Stephenson  has  done  his  work  at  the  Farm,  and 
will  have  done  at  Captain  Huck’s,  too,  by  the  time  this  reaches  you. 
He  knows  where  I engaged  the  shingles,  and  not  to  forget  to  put  the 
palings  on  the  fence  where  broken,  and  to  right  up  the  Board  fence 
opposite  John  Nulton’s. 

Tuesday. — Safe  in  Aspinwall.  Leave  on  train  to-day  for  Panama. 
Will  give  you  particulars  in  my  next.  Must  mail  this  now. 

Affectionately, 

F. 


[No.  3.] 


My  Dear  Mary, — 


S.  S.  San  Blas,  Panama, 

Tuesday,  December  10,  1889. 


This  morning  I mailed  through  my  friend  Col.  John  Stuart, 
Agent  of  the  Pacific  Mail  S.  S,  Company  in  Aspinwall,  Letter  No. 
2,  addressed  to  your  Mother.  You  remember  I met  with  this  gentle- 
man a year  ago  on  my  way  home  from  my  South  American  Tour. 
His  wife  was  then  here  recovering  from  an  attack  of  fever ; she  is 
now  living  in  Denver  with  her  son,  not  being  able  to  stand  this 
climate. 

He  and  the  Agent  of  the  Line  in  Panama,  Captain  John  Dow, 
who  was  hei’e,  said  they  had  received  notice  of  my  coming,  and  tele- 
graphed to  Panama  to  have  the  best  quarters  secured  for  me  on  this 
Ship — the  San  Bias,  bound  for  San  Francisco.  How  kind  and  con- 
siderate this ! 

Captain  James  L.  Lockwood,  of  the  City  of  Para,  also  said  he 
would  give  me  a Letter  of  Introduction  to  Captain  Johnson  of  this 
Ship,  that  he  might  facilitate  my  voyage  to  San  Francisco.  But 
happily  Captain  Johnson  came  over  to  Aspinwall  and  visited  the 
City  of  Para,  and  I then  made  his  acquaintance  through  Captain 
Lockwood,  and  he  promised  to  do  everything  in  his  power  to  advance 


ASPINWALL. 


17 


my  profit  and  enjoyment;  and  to  this  time  he  has  fully  fulfilled  his 
promise. 

Not  leaving  Aspinwall  for  Panama  till  the  afternoon,  I wandered 
about  for  several  hours,  keeping  under  my  umbrella  or  on  the  shady 
side  of  the  street  to  avoid  the  blazing  Sun.  W hen  here  before,  you 
will  recall.  Col.  Stuart  drove  me  around,  especially  to  the  Beach, 
where  Col.  Rives’  residence  is  located,  and  various  handsome  sites. 
This  time  I went  rather  to  the  other  end  of  the  town — called  the 
French  portion,  embowered  in  Cocoanut  Palms  and  Bananas,  and 
where  De  Lesseps  built  residences  for  himself  and  Son — quite  hand- 
some and  conspicuous  affairs,  constructed  of  wood,  with  verandas 
around  the  entire  building — now  never  to  be  used  by  the  unfortunate 
family.  At  the  end  of  the  Avenue  which  leads  to  them,  stands  a 
Bronze  Group  of  Columbus  and  an  Indian  Girl,  she  in  the  crouching 
attitude  of  seeking  his  protection,  given  to  Colon  by  the  Empress 
Eugenie,  when  in  the  plentitude  of  her  "wealth  and  power ; and  a 
more  wretched  work  of  Art  you  would  not  wish  to  see. 

The  Town  consists  mainly  of  one  street,  fronting  the  Ocean,  with 
plank  pavements  and  roadway.  Groups  of  idle  and  ill-clad  negroes 
are  everywhei’e  around,  a not  unfamiliar  scene  in  other  Countries 
you  know  of.  The  place  had  evidently  improved  of  late  years,  from 
the  new  buildings  and  their  style:  but  the  collapse  of  the  Canal 
Enterprise  has  called  a halt  in  its  growth,  and,  doubtless.  Colon’s 
best  days  have  been  seen. 

At  three  o’clock  p.  m.  the  through  passengers  took  train  for  Pan- 
ama— a goodly  number.  Again  I was  interested  in  the  Canal  Scheme; 
I will  not  repeat  what  I said  in  my  former  Tour.  They  wei’e  then 
at  work,  but  I told  you  they  would  very  soon  cease,  and  the  enter- 
prise fall  into  ruin.  That  prediction  was,  a short  time  thereafter, 
verified.  The  same  melancholy  spectacle  presented  itself  along  the 
whole  Line.  Hundreds  of  houses  of  all  sorts — enough  to  constitute 
a City  in  the  aggregate,  built  for  the  residences  of  the  operatives  and 
other  purposes — falling  into  rubbish,  and  machinery  and  implements 
of  labor  everywhere  lost — indeed  scarce  anything  to  tell  why  they 
were  there  or  how  they  had  been  used.  I know  of  no  enterprise  of 
the  present  or  past  whose  wreck  appears  so  costly.  I understand 
a Commission  of  the  Creditors  is  on  its  way  from  France  now,  to 
determine  what  they  will  or  can  do  about  it. 

2 


18 


LETTER  NO.  S. 


The  Captain  of  the  San  Bias  came  along  and  was  especially 
attentive.  In  Panama  he  saw  me  safely  in  the  tug,  which  conveyed 
us  from  the  Landing  to  the  Steamer ; instructed  the  Purser  to  give 
me  a choice  room,  and  if  possible,  without  a Room-mate.  When  we 
arrived,  he  went  with  me  to  the  Room,  and  saw  me  safely  quartered  ; 
gave  orders  to  his  own  Chinese  servant — Wing — to  wait  upon  my 
every  want ; and  to  the  Steward,  to  show  me  every  attention  ; intro- 
duced me  to  his  First  Officer,  and  gave  him  the  same  instructions, 
that  my  voyage  to  San  Francisco  might  be  all  I could  desire. 
Surely,  you  will  say,  I am  a lucky  traveller. 

In  Panama,  came  the  parting  with  some  of  my  new-made  friends. 
My  Doctor  Room-mate  now  left  me — this  being  his  home.  He  had 
on  his  jewels,  and  his  bosom  and  fingers  shone  brilliantly,  and  his 
sombrero  tassels  topped  his  long-flowing  ringlets  with  the  abandon 
of  Buffiilo  Bill.  He  wanted  me  to  get  off  and  see  him  ; and  on 
parting  wished  me  all  good  things,  which  I returned  in  full 
measure.  The  poor  fellow  was  sick  nearly  all  the  way  from  New 
York  to  Colon  ; but  when  able  to  get  out  towards  the  latter  part  of 
the  Voyage,  he  was  gay,  like  a bird  of  brilliant  plumage  ought  to  be. 
He  made  a pleasant  room-mate,  ever  courteous  and  gentlemanly. 
Here,  too,  I parted  with  Thorndike  and  Backus  with  much  regret 
— they  bound  to  their  homes  in  Peru.  I sent  by  them  many  kind 
words  and  remembrances  to  my  friends  in  South  America,  from  whom 
such  numerous  attentions  had  been  received  on  my  visit  there. 

Mrs.  Winter  and  her  two  children  came  along,  and  Mr.  Tod, 
and  many  others  whom  I know,  and  have  not  had  occasion  to  name. 
Things  look  favorable  to  my  voyage  along  the  Western  Coast  of  the 
Nortliern  Continent — a new  scene  in  my  travel  experience.  I forgot 
to  say  Captain  Lockwood  escorted  me  from  the  Ship  to  the  train, 
and  I promised  to  write  to  him  on  my  return  home,  and  tell  him  of 
the  countries  and  sights  I saw. 

We  reached  this  good  Ship  about  dark.  She  seems  a stout,  strong 
Vessel,  but  not  equal  in  size  and  appointments  to  the  City  of  Para. 
The  latter’s  name  was  not  a pleasant  reminder — were  I superstitious: 
for  in  that  City,  I suffered  the  only  sickness  that  ever  affected  me 
seriously  on  any  of  my  travels.  But  had  I been  superstitious,  none 
of  them,  you  have  seen,  were  realized.  She  is  a Vessel  of  thirty-six 
hundred  tons,  finely  built  and  appointed  with  an  admirable  manage- 
ment, and  her  splendid  movements  were  continuously  aided  by 


STEAMSHIP  SAN  BLAS. 


19 


Nature’s  kindliest  smiles.  This  Ship — San  Bias — is  much  smaller; 
about  twenty-five  hundred  tons,  and  not  nearly  equal  in  finish  and 
appointments  ; but  seems  good  and  staunch. 

Thus  end  the  first  and  second  links  in  the  chain  of  Travel.  New 
York  to  Colon — nineteen  hundred  and  seventy  miles ; Colon  to 
Panama — forty-eight. 

Same  Steamship, 

Wednesday,  December  11,  1889. 

Last  night  I found  a sound  night’s  rest  on  board  the  San  Bias. 
The  heat  was  not  unbearable,  and  a gentle  breeze  stirred  the  curtain 
of  my  cabin  window,  and  kept  the  inside  air  alive.  She  swung  at 
anchor  about  four  miles  out  from  Panama,  and  near  by  where  I was 
a year  ago,  you  remember,  on  the  Chilian  Steamer. 

All  day  was  occupied  in  loading  and  unloading  freight.  Many 
of  the  passengers  went  in  small  Boats  and  spent  the  day  in 
Panama.  I had  been  there  and  seen  all  that  j^lace  has  to  show  the 
stranger;  and  of  this  you  have  already  heard.  I,  therefore,  remained 
and  amused  myself  in  various  ways  ; talking  to  the  Captain  in  his 
Office:  reading  and  sitting  on  Deck  under  the  awning,  and  enjoying 
the  scene — by  no  means  to  be  despised — the  City  in  the  distance : 
the  vessels  of  various  sizes,  shapes  and  nationalities,  anchored 
around  : the  Sea  on  which  they  floated  shaded,  according  to  depth, 
from  deepest  blue  to  lightest  green,  reflecting  the  blended  shadows 
of  ships  and  clouds  : the  encircling  land,  houses  along  the  shore, 
workshops  and  habitations,  receding  into  mountains  of  varied  out- 
line, clad  with  dense  foliage:  nowand  then  opening  into  bights, 
through  which  Islands  appeared  in  the  distance,  changing  their 
green  into  softest  purple  hues.  It  cannot  be  said  that  the  environ- 
ments of  Panama  are  void  of  captivating  beauties. 

AVhilst  enjoying  these  scenes,  a Tropic  shower  came  along  and 
dropped  bucketsfull  of  water  on  them,  and  then  passed  as  suddenly 
and  carelessly  as  it  came,  leaving  behind  a Rainbow  of  brightest 
colors — too  bright  to  contain  all  its  glories,  transferring  a portion  of 
them  to  its  double. 

During  the  morning.  Dr.  Charles  H.  Williamson  called  to  see  me, 
and,  also,  the  Surgeon  of  the  Ship,  a handsome  German  Gentleman, 
whose  name  I did  not  catch — will  doubtless  learn  hereafter.  Dr. 
Williamson  is  from  Norfolk, — left  the  old  Army,  came  to  the  Con- 


20 


LETTER  NO.  S. 


federacy  and  met  the  same  fate  that  befell  such  numbers  of  his  patri- 
otic confreres.  For  nineteen  years  he  was  in  the  employ  of  the 
Pacific  Mail  S.  S.  Company ; for  the  last  three  years  he  has  been 
Surgeon  of  this  Port,  with  a salary  of  thirty-six  hundred  dollars  in 
gold  a year.  He  is  an  old-time  Virginia  gentleman — knows  all  about 
me,  and  our  relations  were  soon  easy,  like  those  of  ancient  friends.  His 
family — Mrs.  Williamson  and  two  Daughters,  one  of  whom  is  married 
— live  in  Brooklyn  ; cannot  stand  this  climate.  The  Doctor  is  hale  and 
hearty — knows  how  to  take  care  of  himself.  We  talked  of  Virginia 
and  her  affairs,  and  you  may  he  sure  we  had  a good  time  together. 

T1  le  Captain  took  me  to  his  Bridge  and  told  me  I must  look  upon 
myself  as  the  Ship’s  Guest,  and  to  resort  there  whenever  I desired  to 
read  or  view  the  waters  and  the  Coast.  This  is  a valuable  privilege 
to  the  traveller  on  a coastwise  voyage,  and  the  courtesy  I heartily 
appreciate. 

In  the  afternoon  the  Captain  took  me  ashore  in  his  Boat,  to  return 
the  Doctor’s  visit.  They  have  grown  into  great  friends,  and,  though 
differing  in  Politics — the  Ca})tain  being  a Republican — there  exists 
between  them  an  excellent  entente  cordiale.  Our  visit  was  delightful. 
The  Captain  sympathizes  enthusiastically  in  our  Virginia  Victory, 
and  the  great  questions  that  confront  us  in  our  History  coming  up 
in  our  conversation,  I felt  an  interest  that  thi’ew  me  into  those  high 
themes  and  regions,  and  loosed  my  tongue ; and  they  gave  me  heed, 
seeming  not  to  have  heard  such  talk  before.  Thus  sped  an  hour 
or  two  in  the  Doctor’s  cosy  cottage,  the  windows  and  doors  open, 
looking  out  upon  the  Sea.  It  was  a nice  visit  and  I regretfully  bade 
my  friend  Good  Bye  ! 

When  we  got  back  to  the  Ship  it  was  nearly  dark.  The  hum  and 
bang  and  rattle  of  the  loading  continued  till  ten  o’clock,  then  the 
anchor  was  lifted,  the  whistle  sounded,  and  we  started  on  the  third 
link  of  my  long  journey — meantime  the  Moon  just  tipping  the  hori- 
son,  and  the  Sky  ablaze  with  Stars. 

Same  Steamship, 

Thursday,  December  12,  1889. 

Another  lovely  day  along  the  Coast.  Early  in  the  morning  I 
accepted  the  Captain’s  tender,  and  went  to  the  Bridge,  where  I 
remained  most  of  the  day,  watching  the  Scenery  of  Panama,  which 
we  skirted  all  the  while. 


STEAMSHIP  SAN  BLAS. 


21 


Your  map  will  show  you  we  steamed  directly  across  the  Bay  of 
Panama  to  Mariato  Point,  making  the  chord  of  the  arc  of  the  Western 
shore  line — the  land  constantly  in  view,  however,  clothed  heavily 
with  vegetation,  and  rising  into  mountains  of  quite  picturesque  out- 
line— opening  vistas,  where  the  damp  atmosphere  or  little  showers, 
in  the  Sun’s  rays  had  gathered  now  and  then  heaps  of  prismatic 
colors.  No  habitation  was  visible,  nor  a single  cleared  area;  and  I 
am  told  the  whole  region  is  the  home  of  wild  beasts ; and  thus  will 
doubtless  remain,  till,  in  the  course  of  time,  the  hunter  for  the 
valuable  hard  woods,  which  grow  there,  comes  along. 

The  Captain  kindly  consulted  me  with  regard  to  the  seats  at  the 
table;  he  giving  me  that  upon  his  right.  I suggested  Mrs.  Winter, 
and  a Mrs.  Todd,  from  Brooklyn,  with  whom  I often  met  in  the  S.  S. 
City  of  Para,  and  Mr.  Tod,  from  Scotland,  whom  you  already  know. 
You  observe  they  spell  their  names  ditferently ; which  I told  Mr. 
Tod  he  ought  to  explain  to  Mi’s.  Todd,  who  was  greatly  offended, 
that  such  a liberty  should  be  taken  with  the  orthography  of  her’s, 
as  to  drop  one  of  its  letters.  He  said  he  would  borrow  that  given  by 
the  Governor  of  one  the  States,  who,  when  the  single  d was  com- 
mented on  in  his  name,  replied  that,  inasmuch  as  God  was  satisfied 
with  one  in  His,  poor  insignificant  man  ought  not  to  complain. 

About  four  o’clock  in  the  afternoon  we  turned  Mariato  Point,  and 
by  direct  line  steamed  for  Costa  Eica,  leaving  Quibo  Islands  on  our 
right,  which  came  full  in  sight  and  disappeared  about  dusk.  Soon 
only  the  thickly  studded  Sky,  and  the  equally  brilliant  phosphoric 
Sea  remained  to  us.  Whilst  enjoying  these  on  Deck,  the  Ship’s 
Surgeon,  Dr.  Saint  Leben,  and  I talked  about  Germany — his  Native 
Land — her  people  and  affairs.  I spoke,  among  other  things,  of  the 
contrast  that  appeared  to  me  existed  between  the  English  and  the 
German,  the  Anglo-Saxon  and  the  Teuton  : both  of  the  same  Eace, 
but  diversely  developed ; both  of  great  capacity  and  intellectual 
power  and  culture ; both  now  widely  scattered  over  the  world ; 
and  both  centres  of  force,  wherever  they  go.  The  German  is  a 
developed  unit ; embracing  in  his  culture  the  whole  range  of  indi- 
vidual thought  in  its  every  department ; and  in  all  lands  to  which 
he  emigrates  an  agent  of  accumulation  and  growth;  but  never  a 
Political  factor — a power  to  rule — or  become  the  founder  of  States. 
On  the  contrary,  the  English  while,  perhaps,  not  possessing  this 
development  in  an  equal  degree,  has  that  instinctively  which  the 


22 


LETTER  NO.  3. 


German  wants — the  Genius  to  dominate  by  Governmental  Forces^ 
and  establish  Centres  of  Empire.  England’s  Island  position,  and  the 
Continental  conditions  of  Germany’s  Life  have  doubtless  made  this 
difference  in  their  individualities  and  tendencies.  England,  in  the 
progress  of  time,  has  accumulated  vast  wealth,  seeking  investment 
greater  than  any  other  Nationality — maybe,  greater  than  all  other 
Nationalities  combined.  Germany  is  poor,  and  her  people,  over- 
crowded in  her  country  equally  poor,  go  abroad  with  only  their 
vigorous  energies  to  obtain  subsistence.  The  Englishman  carries  his 
wealth  with  him  and,  in  a great  measure,  now  relies  upon  it  to 
work  for  him.  Both  have  made  all  lands  feel  the  impress  of  their 
presence.  Still,  the  difference  survives  most  strikingly  wherever  you 
find  them.  The  one,  only  an  Economic  agent ; the  other,  a Political 
force.  How  long  this  will  continue  we  cannot  say.  Will  that 
strange  power  of  domination,  which  distinguishes  the  Anglo-Saxon 
above  all  other  peoples  in  modern  times,  and  finds  no  pai’allel  since 
Ancient  Rome,  remain  with  them,  or  will  it  be  influenced  by  the 
effeminating  effects  of  their  vast  wealth?  Will  the  Germans  ever 
acquire,  with  their  great  intellectual  power  and  culture,  the  strange 
Genius,  should  the  Britons  lose  it?  The  Germans  have  as  yet 
manifested  no  ability  to  Colonize ; and  when  they  go  in  throngs  to 
other  Countries,  as  to  ours,  they  fill  the  land  with  the  evidences  of 
their  industry,  but  never  become  a valuable  or  controlling  influence 
in  the  Public  Councils.  With  acquisitions  and  energy  unparalleled, 
they  signally  everywhere  manifest  the  absence  of  the  ability  to  rule. 

This  is  conspicuous  in  the  Countries  of  South  America  we  lately 
visited,  and  those  of  Central  America  we  are  now  passing.  In  the 
former,  the  Germans  are  everywhere  working  unflaggingly — far  sur- 
passing the  Ei;glish  in  their  individual  effort ; but  no  public  enter- 
prise marks  their  presence  in  the  Country — those  are  of  Anglo-Saxon 
Genius  and  money.  Nearly  all  on  board,  bound  for  the  Central 
American  States,  are  Germans — each  individual  to  simply  make  a 
living  or  money  for  himself,  with  no  ulterior  object  to  build  ,up  or 
control  the  destinies  of  the  Country.  Were  they  Anglo-Saxons,  you 
would  hear  of  great  designs  to  elevate  the  people  or  their  Institutions, 
and  to  make  them  feel  the  impress  of  the  British  Realm  or  of  the 
American  Republic. 

And  thus  it  is,  and  has  been  ever,  in  the  story  of  these  two  great 
Peoples  in  their  migrations  over  the  World. 


STEAMSHIP  SAN  BLAS. 


23 


To  these  thoughts  my  German  Doctor  Friend  could  make  no  re- 
butting response — rather  agreed  in  the  diagnosis. 

On  Same  Ship, 

Friday,  December  13,  1889. 

A Tropic  down-pour  entertained  us  for  an  hour  or  two  this  morning. 
It  cooled  the  air,  and  during  the  day  we  felt  no  uncomfortable  heat. 

I went  to  the  Bridge  again,  and  was  there  most  of  the  time,  look- 
ing around  us.  The  Land  we  passed  was  that  of  Costa  Rica — some- 
times near,  sometimes  remote.  When  near,  it  resembled,  along  the 
Coast,  that  of  Panama — an  impenetrable  growth  of  living  green,  with 
the  characteristics  of  which  I have  spoken  in  Panama.  This,  I 
recall,  was  called  Costa  Rica — “Rich  Coast” — by  Columbus,  because 
he  was  told  that  wealth  of  Silver  and  Gold  abounded  there — almost 
the  only  wealth  the  greedy  Spaniards  looked  for  anywhere.  This  he 
found,  as  not  unfrequently  before,  a sad  misnomer. 

But  the  Country  is  a fine  one,  and  is  opening  with  promise,  like 
most  of  these  Central  American  States,  under  the  advent  of  foreign 
wealth  and  energy. 

Much  of  the  time  the  Shore  line  was  far  away  and  we  could  only 
see  it  like  a rim  upon  the  water.  AVe  made  no  stoppage  anywhere. 

I returned  the  German  Doctor’s  visit  at  his  Office,  and  we  had 
another  pleasant  chat.  He  told  me  of  his  service  on  the  Medical 
Staff  of  the  German  Army  in  the  Franco-Prussian  AAffir,  and  showed 
me  the  Badge  he  had  won  of  the  Legion  of  Honor  of  the  Iron  Cross, 
which  he,  with  much  pride,  wore.  It  is  of  Iron,  of  the  Maltese 
Pattern,  the  edges  polished,  the  body  of  it  the  iron  color.  It  is  a 
handsome  ornament,  and  the  Doctor  thinks  it  is  in  every  way  an 
honor  to  be  worn. 

At  Dinner,  the  Captain  said  he  would  wake  us  at  the  time  when 
the  Constellation  of  the  Southern  Cross  was  visible  at  its  best  in  the 
Sky — which  would  be  at  the  hour  of  four  to  five  o’clock.  Of  course, 
I will  turn  out. 

Same  Ship, 

Saturday,  December  14,  1889. 

The  Captain  aroused  me  according  to  promise  at  half-past  four 
o’clock,  and  again  I saw  the  great  Constellation  of  this  Celestial 
Hemisphere — the  Southern  Cross.  You  know  of  it  from  my  travels, 


24 


LETTER  NO.  3. 


especially  on  my  tour  through  Mexico,  when  I saw  it  for  the 
first  time  in  ascending  from  Vera  Cruz  to  the  plateau  of  Ana- 
huac.  I have  hitherto  remarked,  never  since  have  I seen  it  so 
brilliant ; for  never  have  I experienced  such  conditions  of  the 
atmosphere.  This  morning  the  sky  and  atmosphere  at  that  early 
hour  were  good,  and  I enjoyed  the  interview  with  my  ancient 
friend.  Yet  I am  not  carried  away  with  the  splendor  of  the  group  ; 
never  have  been  to  the  extent  I was  in  Mexico.  It  is  not  a perfect 
Cross,  nor  are  the  Stars  of  a magnitude  worthy  of  its  high-sounding 
name.  I have  amused  myself  with  the  crowded  Heavens  in  manu- 
facturing several  Crosses  more  imposing  than  the  one  which  has  taken 
to  itself  such  abundance  of  comment  and  admiration. 

Last  night  and  this  morning  a stiff  breeze  came  off  from  the  shore, 
which  swept  through  the  Ship  and  vivified  the  air,  and  made  things 
fresh  and  cool.  During  the  day  we  steamed  Northwest  along  the 
Coast  of  Nicaragua — some  distance  off.  You  observe,  this  Country 
lies  inside  a line  drawn  from  Costa  Rica  to  San  Salvadoi’ — in  a kind 
of  recess — and  most  of  the  time  its  shores  could  scarcely  be  observed. 
Towards  Evening,  however,  from  the  Bridge,  we  saw  a fine  Volcano, 
about  twenty  miles  in  from  Corinto,  with  fine  Conical  peak — a hand- 
some object  in  the  Landscape — and  the  Sun  closed  the  scene  with 
quite  a brilliant  setting. 

To-morrow  morning  early,  the  Captain  tells  me,  we  will  make 
La  Libertad,  the  Port  of  San  Salvador,  the  Capital  of  the  Country 
of  the  same  name. 

Now,  since  the  Canal  across  the  Isthmus  has  failed  in  the  estimate 
of  the  world,  the  hopes  of  Nicaragua  are  aroused,  and  those  in  this 
country,  who  ought  to  know,  think  the  Oceans  will  here  be  joined. 
Its  resources  far  surpass  those  of  the  Isthmus,  and  the  opening  up 
of  a splendid  country,  they  say,  awaits  the  Canal’s  advent.  The 
San  Juan  Riv'er — pronounced  San  Wan — affords  one  Link,  Lake 
Nicaragua  another,  and  a cut  thence  to  the  Pacific — only  eleven 
miles — the  third.  The  character  of  the  soil  through  which  that  cut 
is  projected,  its  advocates  say,  is  favorable.  Of  my  own  knowledge 
and  observation,  I can  write  nothing.  Maybe,  the  Oceans  will  be 
thus  wedded. 

The  Purser  informs  me  that  he  can  post  this  Letter  in  La  Libertad 
to-morrow,  and  that  it  will  thus,  by  the  Vessels  of  this  Line  via 
Panama  and  Colon,  reach  New  York  by  the  2nd  of  January. 


STEAMSHIP  SAN  BLAS—SAN  SALVADOR. 


25 


Should  I retain  and  finish  it  in  San  Francisco,  ■which  City  we 
expect  to  reach  by  the  first  of  that  month,  yon  would  not  hear  till 
seven  or  eight  days  later.  I will,  therefore,  close  this  now,  and 
trust  it  to  the  mail,  being  sure  that  it  will  give  you  pleasure  to  get 
one  more  Letter  than  you  expected. 

You  can,  also,  reply  to  me  at  San  Francisco  on  its  receipt.  I 
might  receive  it  before  I leave — the  11th  or  12th — for  Aukland. 
Should  I not,  it  could  be  forwarded  thence  by  my  Bankers. 

In  haste  for  mail.  With  teuderest  love  for  all, 

F. 


[No.  4.] 


On  S.  S.  San  Blas, 

La  Libertad,  San  Salvador, 

Sunday,  December  15,  1889. 


My  Dear  Taylor, — 


I posted  to-day  No.  3,  addressed  to  Mary.  I explain  therein  why 
I mailed  it  before  my  arrival  in  San  Francisco. 

During  the  night  we  passed  the  Gulf  of  Fonseca,  an  inlet  which 
belongs  to  Honduras,  whose  greatest  bulk  lies  on  the  Caribbean  Sea 
and  abuts  simply  by  this  Gulf  upon  the  Pacific.  There  is  the  small 
town  of  La  Union  on  this  recess,  at  which  some  of  the  Steamers  of 
this  Line  make  calls,  but  we  go  on  to  La  Libertad,  the  Port  of  San 
Salvador,  the  Capital  of  the  Country  of  the  same  name — distant  from 
Panama,  seven  hundred  and  eighty-eight  miles. 

San  Salvador  is  the  smallest  of  the  Central  American  Countries, 
and,  your  Map  shows  you,  is  situated  altogether  on  the  Pacific — being 
otherwise  land-bound  by  Honduras  and  Guatemala.  It  is  the  only 
one  of  these  Countries  that  does  not  open  on  both  Seas.  But  whilst 
the  smallest,  it  is  relatively  the  richest  and  most  populous — bearing 
in  these  respects  the  same  relation  to  them,  that  Barbadoes  does  to  her 
sister  Antilles. 

But  whilst  small,  it  is  big  in  its  volcanic  proportions,  having  not 
a few  of  them,  which  have  manifested  their  fierceness  even  in  late 
years,  by  the  violence  and  destructiveness  of  their  eruptions.  San 


26 


LETTER  NO.  4. 


Salvador,  the  Capital,  has  frequently  been  destroyed  by  them  and 
by  eartliqnakes.  Such  was  its  fate  in  1854  and  again  in  1869;  and 
again  in  1873.  Yet,  subject  to  these  frightful  disasters,  like  Java,  it 
is  productive  beyond  most  Countries — yielding  Indigo,  India  Rubber, 
Sugar,  Coffee,  and  Balsam,  the  last  to  such  extent  that  its  Pacific 
front  has  been  called  the  Balsam  Coast;  and  it  is  as  beautiful  as 
productive.  It  rises,  like  all  the  Central  American  States,  from  the 
shore  line  into  elevated  plateaus,  which  vary  in  climate  according  to 
elevation,  containing  delightful  regions  both  in  temperature  and  pro- 
duction. 

This  morning  we  were  greatly  favored.  The  Sky  and  Sea  and 
Land  welcomed  our  advent  to  La  Libertad.  The  Sun  was  rising, 
and  clothed  with  brilliant  colors  the  water,  the  clouds,  and  the  moun- 
tains. These  latter  rose  in  varied  outline  from  the  shore — covered 
with  vegetation,  dominated  now  and  then  by  Volcanoes  of  clean  cut, 
conic-shape;  and  balmy  breezes  came  to  us  from  the  Shore. 

La  Libertad  is  only  a small  collection  of  Official  Houses,  whence 
a carriage  road  leads  to  San  Salvador,  sixty  or  seventy  miles  distant. 
The  Commandants  came  off  to  us,  anchored  a mile  or  two  out. 
There  is  an  Iron  Pier — but  seemingly  of  little  use,  for  our  ship  could 
not  reach  it.  Here  our  Bishop  and  the  Padres  left  us,  and  the 
sailors  drew  a long  breath  of  relief,  that  the  ominous  Sky  Pilots 
had  gone.  The  Bishop  was  the  most  respectable  man  of  his 
order  I have  seen  in  these  Countries — well-behaved  and  intel- 
lectual looking.  He  spoke  so  little  English,  that  I could  gather 
nothing  from  him. 

I could  see  the  place  and  surroundings  from  the  Deck,  and,  there- 
fore, did  not  go  ashore.  I spend  the  day  in  reading,  lounging,  and 
looking  ai’ound.  We  had  no  service  on  board. 

One  of  the  Ladies  seeing  me  upon  the  Bridge,  wanted — woman- 
like— to  go  there,  too,  and  asked  the  Captain  at  Dinner  to  allow  her; 
which  request  he  evaded  by  telling  her  to  read  the  Ship’s  regulations 
posted  up  in  her  State-Room  forbidding  it.  I told  the  Captain 
afterwards,  I feared,  when  he  tendered  me  the  privilege,  some  such 
trouble;  therefore,  he  would  remember,  was  loth  to  accept  it,  and  if  it 
embarrassed  him,  I would  not  go  again.  He  said  it  did  not  trouble 
him  at  all ; he  wanted  me  to  come,  and  would  be  annoyed  rather  if 
I did  not.  Because  he  wanted  me  was  no  reason  for  his  allowing 
others  there ; and  he  was  not  bothered  with  their  requests. 


STEAMSHIP  SAN  BLAS— GUATEMALA. 


27 


When  the  Priests  got  off  others  got  on,  and  the  Purser  told 
me  he  was  straightened  for  room.  I told  him  to  put  some  one  in 
with  me.  He  said  he  would  not,  and  nothing  but  the  greatest 
necessity  would  make  him  thus  interfere  with  my  comfort.  He 
hoped  I could  have  it  to  myself  till  our  arrival  in  San  Francisco. 

Towards  dark,  we  got  under  way  again.  When  the  night  came 
on,  we  had  a brilliant  view  of  Mount  Izalco — six  thousand,  three 
hundred  and  eighty  feet  high,  the  fire  blazing  from  its  lofty 
summit : sometimes  like  a huge  torch — sometimes  like  a Star.  This 
continued  for  hours.  We  were  distant  from  it  eighty  or  one  hundred 
miles.  We  passed  the  lights  upon  the  shore  of  Acajutla — pronounced 
Acahutla — another  Port  of  the  Capital,  between  which  places  there 
is,  also,  a carriage  way. 

On  Same  Steamer,  and  San  Jos£,  Guatemala, 

Monday,  December  16,  1889. 

We  came  to  San  Jose,  Guatemala, — pronounced  San  Hosae — 
ninety-three  miles — at  an  early  hour  this  morning.  It  is  a line  of 
Official  Houses  along  the  Shore — nothing  more.  Behind  it  a few 
native  thatch-covered  huts  constitute  the  Port  of  Guatemala,  the 
Capital  of  the  Country  of  that  name. 

The  Shore  is  low  and  its  wliole  length  covered  with  vegetation, 
the  Sands  which  bound  it  white  with  the  surf  of  the  incoming  Ocean. 
An  Iron  Pier  extends  for  half  a mile  into  the  Sea.  The  Ship  floats, 
several  miles  away,  out  in  the  open  Roadstead.  Behind,  some 
distance  inland,  stretches  a fine  background  of  lofty  volcanic  Moun- 
taiusj  some  with  beautiful  pyramidal  Peaks.  Two  especially  con- 
spicuous: Mount  Agua — Water,  it  signifies — twelve  thousand,  three 
hundred  and  thirty-four  feet  in  height;  and  Mount  Fuego — which 
signifies  Fire — twelve  thousand,  six  hundred  and  three  feet  in 
altitude,  standing  like  huge  sentinels  North  and  South  of  the 
town,  and  brilliant  ornaments  and  landmarks  in  the  scene.  Just 
behind  Fuego  rises  Acatenango,  so  near  as  to  apparently  be  a twin 
Peak — twelve  thousand,  eight  hundred  and  ninety  feet  in  height. 
In  the  Range  there  are  other  fine  elevations ; but  I will  not  stop  to 
name  them.  The  whole  affording  a spectacle  worth  the  traveller’s 
time  and  trouble  to  look  at. 


28 


LETTER  NO.  4. 


There  is  a Railroad  from  San  Jose  to  the  City  of  Guatemala — 
ninety  miles — reaching  an  elevation  of  five  or  six  thousand  feet. 
In  talking  to  those  on  board,  who  live  in  Guatemala,  they  speak  in 
quite  glowing  terms  of  the  beauties  of  the  scene  along  the  ascending 
Rail — the  variety  and  richness  of  the  productions,  and  of  the  growth, 
prosperity  and  delightful  Climate  of  the  City  upou  its  lofty  site.  I 
would  run  up  and  see  it,  could  I return  in  time  for  the  Steamer ; 
but  there  is  only  one  train  a day,  and  the  trip  cannot  be  accomplished 
without  losing  my  connections. 

The  chief  complaint,  I gather,  is  the  want  of  labor,  and  the  diffi- 
culty of  its  organization  ; — the  crying  need  of  the  Country,  in  the 
mind  of  those  who  hope  for  its  growth  and  development.  The 
Natives  don’t  want  to  work;  Nature,  with  profuse  prodigality,  works 
for  them,  and  they  hate  the  foreigner  who  comes  with  designs  to 
make  them  help.  This  interesting  Road  was  built  by  the  means  and 
enterprise  of  C.  P.  Huntingdon  and  other  California  and  New  Yoi’k 
Capitalists.  Another  item  to  be  considered  in  my  comment  on  the 
distinguishing  traits  of  the  Teuton  and  the  Anglo-Saxon;  for  the 
persons  on  board,  bound  for  Guatemala  to  live,  are  Germans,  almost 
without  exception.  But,  though  vigorous  men  and  women,  too, 
they  are  going  to  make  money  or  a livelihood  by  the  cultivation 
of  Indigo,  Sugar,  Cacao,  Coffee,  especially  the  last,  but  probably 
never  to  be  heard  of  in  those  great  enterprises  which  tell  upon 
the  Country’s  political  destiny  or  elevation  in  the  scale  of  civilized 
nationalities. 

A few  from  curiosity  went  ashore  in  the  Launch  ; but  I thought 
the  remuneration  would  not  repay  the  cost.  You  had  to  be  let  down 
in  a Basket-chair  from  the  Steamer’s  high  Deck  and  lifted  up  in  the 
same  way  again  to  the  equally  high  Pier ; and,  after  all,  there  was 
nothing  that  could  not  be  better  seen  from  our  comfortable  Seats 
upou  the  Ship.  Then,  too,  the  heat  of  the  Sun  is  not  to  be  despised 
upon  the  low  shore.  Since  we  hav^e  been  in  these  Latitudes,  at  morn- 
ing and  evening,  and  not  unfrequently  during  the  day,  delicious 
breezes  have  tempered  the  Sun,  writing  its  range  on  the  Thermometer 
at  88°  or  89°.  The  temperature  has  never  been  intolerable.  Sometimes 
the  air  is  lulled,  and  swinging  at  anchor,  we  feel  the  heat  blazing  from 
a cloudless  sky — but  most  frequently  we  have  a breeze,  and,  lying 
all  day,  waiting  the  coming  and  going  of  freight  and  passengers,  in 
listless  mood  or  reading  or  thinking  or  looking,  time  does  not  lag  too 


STEAMSHIP  SAN  BLAS— GUATEMALA. 


29 


heavily.  Thus  we  were  all  day  at  La  Libertad  and  at  San  Jose,  and 
will  be  at  Champerico  to-morrow. 

On  Same  Steamer, 

AND  AT  Champerico,  Guatemala, 

Tuesday,  December  17,  1889. 

All  day  at  Champerico — seventy-six  miles  from  San  Jose — from 
daylight  till  five  o’clock  in  the  afternoon,  loading  and  unloading. 
At  midday  the  Sun  was  warm,  and  the  wind  lulling,  made  the  tem- 
perature somewhat  oppressive  at  that  hour.  The  little  town  is  much 
like  those  of  which  I have  spoken : its  Official  Houses  on  the  Shore — 
a long  high  Iron  Pier  extending  into  the  Sea — the  white  surf  lapping 
the  Sands  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach  on  either  side  for  miles — a few 
thatch-covered  huts  among  the  trees,  which  cover  the  lowlands  and 
reach  up  the  flanks  of  the  Mountains  that  tower  behind,  with  a flne 
range  of  clean-cut,  lofty,  volcanic  Peaks. 

From  this  place  a Railroad — about  twenty-eight  miles  in  length — 
penetrates  and  ascends  the  highlands,  making  its  way,  also,  to  the 
Capital  and  not  yet  finished. 

Between  twenty  and  thirty  of  our  passengers  here  left  us — mostly 
Germans — come  to  live  and  work  in  the  country.  Many  of  them 
have  been  residents  for  some  years,  are  now  returning  with  their 
wives  and  children  from  a visit  to  Fatherland.  They  have  all  good 
words  to  say  for  Guatemala;  how  it  rises  from  coast  to  mountain  top, 
sweeping  the  range  of  the  climate  production  of  the  Zones — like 
Mexico,  from  Vera  Cruz  to  the  City,  which  captivated  the  Con- 
quistadores,  and  has  been  a charm  to  all  subsequent  travellers — the 
Tierra  Caliente,  Templada  and  Fria — how  beautiful  is  the  Scenery, 
how  varied  and  exquisite  are  the  Flowers  and  Birds,  tempting  one 
to  stop  off  and  see  for  one’s  self. 

They  are  generally  not  only  satisfied  with  the  present,  but  hopeful 
for  the  future;  they  think  the  Government  will  improve,  not  only 
giving  greater  protection  to  person  and  property,  but  stimulating  to 
greater  effort  and  enterprise.  New  lands  lately  opened  to  culture, 
yield  immensely,  and  are  free  from  the  insect-enemies  which  have 
assailed  older  countries.  Chiefly  is  this  true  of  Coffee,  at  present  the 
most  profitable  production  of  Guatemala.  The  enemies  which  have 
swept  the  fields  of  the  Orient,  and  more  lately  of  South  America,  have 


30 


LETTER  NO.  4. 


put  in  as  yet  no  appearance  here.  More  enthusiastic  Immigrants  I 
have  never  seen. 

With  their  departure,  we  who  left  New  York  on  the  through 
passage  are  left  almost  alone.  But  we  are  more  quiet,  less  crowded, 
and  none  the  worse  for  that. 

At  five  o’clock  we  pulled  up,  and  steamed  on  for  Acapulco — distant 
four  hundred  and  eighty-five  miles.  Soon  the  shore  line  of  Central 
America  was  passed  and  that  of  Mexico  appeared — much  of  the  same 
character — bounding  our  Eastern  Sky. 

On  Same  Steamer, 

OFF  Mexican  Coast, 

Wednesday  and  Thursday,  December  18  and  19,  1889. 

During  these  two  days  we  have  been  coasting  Mexico — mainly 
over  the  Gulf  of  Tehuantepec;  your  Map  will  show  you  that  it  makes 
a considerable  arc  of  depression  in  the  Shore  Line.  In  the  morning 
of  Wednesday,  and  early,  a gale  came  off  from  Land,  similar  to  those 
I have  spoken  of  on  the  Central  American  Coast — save  stiffer  now 
than  then — moving  the  Ocean  into  white  caps,  and  whistling  about 
the  smoke  stack  and  the  rio-o-ino;. 

Without  this  breeze,  it  would  have  been  very  hot ; with  it,  the 
temperature  was  delightful,  and  I sat  on  Deck  and  enjoyed  it,  whilst 
I read,  and  talked,  and  lounged.  The  Mountains  at  first  were  more 
massive;  as  we  advanced,  they  let  down,  forming  the  low  ground  of 
the  Isthmus  of  Tehuantepec — one  hundred  and  seventy  miles  in 
width,  across  whicli,  it  has  l>een  proposed,  you  know,  to  unite  the 
Oceans.  The  sinking  of  the  Mountain  Range  is  very  perceptible 
from  the  Ship. 

The  Captain  sent  for  me  to  come  to  the  Bridge,  that  I might  witness 
the  Scene.  He  never  seems  to  weary  of  showing  me  attention,  and 
trying  to  make  my  time  pleasant  and  profitable.  Our  talks  assume 
a wide  range — not  only  the  things  around  us,  but  the  memories  of 
our  late  sectional  troubles.  He  is  a Republican  ; but  has  no  tolerance 
for  those  of  the  stalwart  kind.  He  rejoices  over  our  Virginia  Vic- 
tory, and  loves  to  talk  of  our  Southern  great  leaders,  and  how  they 
will  be  one  day  recognized  as  among  those  who  are  to  represent  the 
United  States  in  History.  He  spoke  of  Governor  Beaver  and  his 


STEAMSHIP  SAN  BLAS— MEXICAN  COAST. 


31 


folly  in  objecting  to  the  erection  of  any  Southern  Memorials  at 
Gettysburg,  and  what  an  opportunity  he  had  lost;  and  of  many 
other  men  and  things  I have  not  time  to  name. 

We  talked  of  this  strange  wind,  coming  like  a gale  from  Land, 
seemingly  in  conflict  with  what  it  ought  to  be.  I thought  it  came 
from  the  Gulf — the  Northers  seeking  that  body  of  water  and  finding 
a vacuum  over  the  heated  surface  of  Tehuantepec,  rushed  there  to 
fill  it,  and  thence  by  their  own  momentum  to  the  Sea.  This  seems 
a reasonable  solution  of  the  phenomenon.  Lower  down  over  the 
narrower  bounds  of  Central  America,  the  Trades  help  to  make  the 
currents  of  similar  character  we  noticed  there. 

The  Mexican  Mountains  form  a Range  of  varying  height  and 
quality,  from  one  to  ten  thousand  feet  in  height ; and,  though 
mainly  covered  wdth  vegetation,  sometimes  bleak  and  barren.  Now 
and  then  the  Shore  Line  spreads  out  into  Laguues,  presenting  an 
inhospitable  look — generally  covered  with  forests,  seemingly  in  the 
distance  of  fine  timber  import. 

Captain  William  H.  Parker,  a Cousin  of  our  Judge’s,  once  com- 
manded a Ship  of  this  Line  along  this  beat,  and  wrote  a Book 
for  Navigators,  which  my  Caifiain  speaks  very  highly  of:  says 
he  is  a man  of  fine  talents,  and  was  so  recognized  in  the  old 
Navy,  and  subsequently  when  in  service  here.  You  remember, 
he  resigned  and  came  South,  and  after  the  war  was  the  Head  of 
the  Maryland  Agricultural  College  for  a while,  and  later  still 
Minister  to  Corea. 

My  German  Doctor  Friend  and  I have  many  talks.  He  was  a 
Surgeon  in  the  Franco-Prussian  War,  and  tells  me  interesting  stories 
of  his  experience.  He  has,  too,  been  much  of  a traveller ; we  talk 
about  Africa,  where  he  has  wandered. 

All  day  Thursday  we  steamed  over  a lovely  Sea  and  with  lovely 
weather.  The  conditions  which  produce  the  gales  have  gone,  and 
simply  gentle  breezes,  mainly  produced  by  the  motion  of  the  Ship, 
attend  us ; and  the  Mountains  afford  us  entertainment  with  their 
varied  outlines  and  ever  shifting  lights  and  shades — though  the 
Thermometer  tells  of  88°. 

To-morrow  morning  early  we  will  be  in  Acapulco. 


32 


LETTER  NO. 


On  Same  Steamer, 

AT  Acapulco,  Mexico, 

Friday,  December  20,  1889. 

We  arrived  in  Acapulco  at  daylight.  I was  up  early  to  see  the 
entrance.  It  is  hid  away  from  the  Ocean  in  a land-locked  Harbor, 
and  you  might  well  steam  by  without  knowing  it,  secreted  behind 
what  seems  to  be  a simple  Inlet  of  the  Sea.  The  Harbor  is  small, 
but  a perfect  shelter,  not  unlike  a Canteen,  the  mouth  resembling  its 
opening  to  the  Ocean.  Quite  high  mountains  greet  you  along  the 
Shore,  both  North  and  South,  in  your  approach,  and  likewise  com- 
pose the  Harbor’s  rim.  The  Fort,  an  old  Spanish  affair,  crowns  a 
truncated  mountain  and  commands  the  Inlet.  Farther  in,  a quarter 
of  a mile  probably,  sits  the  ancient  town  upon  the  Shore,  its  suburbs 
and  a portion  of  itself  running  up  the  heights. 

On  either  side  are  groves  of  Cocoanut  Palms,  and  between  the 
town  and  the  elevation  are  numbers  of  large,  wide-spreading  and 
handsome  trees,  of  Tropic  growth,  whose  branches  form  a splendid 
Crown,  and  whose  trunks  are  not  unlike  the  India  Rubber  tree, 
buttressed  by  huge  flanges.  I understand  it  is  a species  of  India 
Rubber.  The  Cathedral  lifts  its  plain  whitewashed  tower  in  the 
centre  of  the  town ; and  near  by — conspicuously  showing — a long 
one  story  verandaed  structure,  containing  the  Public  Offices.  A short 
Pier  extends  into  the  Harbor ; but  our  Ship  was  anchored  some 
distance  out,  and  near  its  middle. 

The  morning  was  very  warm,  and  the  confined  area  where  we 
rested  seemed  from  our  position  a completely  land-locked  basin  with 
lofty  rims.  The  Breezes  from  the  Ocean  could  not  reach  us,  and  the 
Sun  shining  from  a cloudless  sky,  seemed  rejoicing  in  his  strength. 
The  mountain  sides  were  a relief — for  they  were  covered  with  vege- 
tation, absorbing  instead  of  reflecting  the  Sun’s  fierce  rays. 

These  surroundings,  whilst  making  the  Harbor  famous,  as  one  of 
the  finest  on  the  Coast,  have  given  the  town  the  reputation  of  being 
one  of  the  hottest  and  most  unhealthy.  Shut  in,  the  health-bearing 
breezes  of  the  outer  world  do  not  come,  and  the  noxious  airs  stay  to 
help  the  growth  of  pestilence.  The  town  is  very  ancient,  but  not 
large.  It  claims  four  thousand  people ; but  no  booms  come  nigh  to 
stimulate  it  into  even  temporary  action.  Railroads  are  promised,  to 


ACAPULCO. 


33 


connect  it  with  the  system  which  has  rejuvenated  the  parent  country  ; 
but  they  are  very  slow  a-coraing.  They  have  to  cross  the  great 
mountain  trend  with  zigzag  or  with  tunnel,  and  no  resources  promise 
sufficient  returns  for  the  outlay.  I fear  Acapulco’s  Harbor  will 
continue  simply  to  boast  of  its  perfection. 

A party  was  made  up  to  go  ashore  and  spy  out  the  place.  We 
selected  an  excellent  Boat  and  started  so  soon  as  the  Commandante 
and  Officers  of  the  Port  had  given  us  a clean  Bill  of  Health  and 
cleared  the  way.  Captain  and  Mrs.  Helmicks  and  Captain  Benjamin 
— U.  S.  Officers — Mr.  and  Mrs.  Southgate,  of  Worcester,  Mass.,  Miss 
McElheny  and  her  Brother,  and  Miss  Sherk,  from  Philadelphia, 
Mr.  Tod,  a young  Scotchman,  constituted  the  party.  We  pretty 
thoroughly  traversed  the  town — visiting  the  Fort,  where  we  were 
politely  I’eceived  by  the  Officers  and  allowed  to  walk  through.  From 
its  Battlements  we  had  a fine  view  of  the  Harbor  and  surroundings, 
and  saw  how  Nature  had  hedged  it  in.  The  Fortifications  amounted 
to  about  ten  minutes  pounding  with  one  good  gun ; the  soldiers  to 
the  same.  We  visited  the  Cathedral — an  exceedingly  humble  affair — 
and  some  of  the  stores,  to  look  at  the  Curios.  I bought  a couple  of 
strands  of  shells  for  you  and  Margaret,  as  something  characteristic  of 
the  place.  I could  not  find  a Silversmith’s  Shop  in  the  town  to  get 
a piece  for  your  Set. 

We  wandered  to  the  suburbs  and  among  the  humbler  people  and 
saw  them  in  their  habitations  and  at  their  work.  They  were  generally 
not  a bad  lot ; the  young  and  the  children,  are  many  of  them  inter- 
esting and  good-looking,  before  the  hardships  of  life  have  wiped  out 
all  the  lines  of  beauty.  Here  and  there  about  the  streets  were  gambling 
tables — the  Mexican’s  necessity  and  bane — not  infrequently  conducted 
by  girls,  whose  anxious  faces  indicated  their  absorption  in  the  game. 
Cocks — plucky  looking — like  those  I saw  in  Tacubaya  on  my  First 
Tour,  were  fastened  by  the  leg  upon  the  Street,  offering  a Pit  to  any 
ambitious  passer-by.  But  no  where  did  I see  drunkenness,  though 
saloons  abounded.  And  to  my  surprise  I saw  few  beggars. 

Vfe  visited  our  Consul,  Mr.  Robert  W.  Laughery,  from  Texas. 
He  is  an  old  man,  though  spry  and  active,  was  appointed  by  Cleve- 
land— now  holding  over;  probably  nobody  wants  his  place.  He  was 
very  polite,  though  having  two  or  three  with  me,  I did  not  feel  proud 
of  him  as  the  representative  of  a Southern  State.  He  said  he  did 
not  want  to  see  any  of  his  Northern  fellow-citizens  ; they  came  down 
3 


34 


LETTER  NO. 


there  and  associated  with  the  negroes,  played  cards  and  drank  with 
them,  and  he  was  not  inclined  to  think  them  any  good,  any  way.  I 
rather  think  the  old  fellow  was  a local  politician — Editor,  maybe,  on 
the  frontier. 

My  Doctor-Friend  invited  me  to  his  Room  to  give  me  a glass  of 
Cocoa  milk  of  the  young  nut.  It  was  the  color  of  water,  and  a 
delicious  beverage.  This,  doubtless,  I have  told  you  of  before  on 
my  Tropical  travels. 

The  Captain  during  the  day  introduced  me  to  General  Lopetega, 
the  Commander  of  the  forces  of  the  Mexican  Pacific  Coast — a fine 
looking  fellow — who  tendered  me  many  civilities ; and,  also,  to  a 
Mr.  Gerick6,  a prominent  citizen  of  Acapulco,  now  on  his  way  to 
San  Francisco. 

After  Dinner  the  Captain  invited  me  to  his  Room,  and  we  talked 
an  hour  or  two,  I giving  him  some  account  of  my  travel  experiences, 
and  then,  as  usual,  I went  to  bed  at  an  early  hour.  The  chief  exports 
of  Acapulco  are  Hides  and  Limes.  Its  only  means  of  approach  from 
the  Interior  are  mule  paths — there  are  no  wagon  roads.  Notwith- 
standing the  fine  Harbor,  I see  no  immediate  future  for  Acapulco. 
The  resources  of  the  Country  are  not  sufficient,  I should  think,  to 
induce  the  building  either  of  Wagon  Roads  or  Railways — especially 
involving  as  they  must  such  vast  expense  across  the  mountain  trend. 

On  Same  Steamer, 

AT  Mansanillo,  Mexico, 

Saturday  and  Sunday,  December  21  and  22,  1889. 

About  three  o’clock  p.  m.  of  Friday  we  left  Acapulco,  bound 
for  Mansanillo — pronounced  Mansauilyo — distant  two  hundred  and 
ninety-seven  miles.  The  atmosphere  cooled  toward  the  evening, 
and  that,  together  with  the  motion  of  the  Vessel,  made  it  most 
enjoyable  to  linger  on  Deck  and  witness  the  varied  outline  of  the 
Mountains,  with  their  coming  and  going  lights  and  shadows — 
the  day  closing  with  the  royal  purple  of  the  Sunset  spread  over 
Sea  and  Land. 

Saturday  was  consumed  in  following  quite  closely  the  Coast  Line 
of  Mexico,  with  its  Northwest  inclination.  The  Mountains  were  of 
more  imposing  make,  and  of  different  contour  and  elevation,  and  I 
found  great  pleasure  in  spending  the  greater  part  of  the  day  upon  the 


MANSANILLO. 


35 


Bridge  watching  the  shifting  scene,  and  enjoying  the  breezes  made 
by  the  Vessel’s  motion.  The  Sea  was  smooth  as  glass. 

The  Mountains  are  heavily  clad  in  vegetation,  yet  I could,  even 
with  my  glass,  find  no  habitations  : it  looked  like  a great  waste,  void 
of  cultivation.  But  towards  the  evening  I saw  a herd  of  Cattle 
wandering  and  feeding  near  the  Shore,  and  thought  I could  detect 
some  huts  hid  away  among  the  foliage.  Mr.  Gericke,  who  knows 
the  Country,  says  that  many  are  raised  through  these  mountain 
regions,  valuable  chiefly  for  their  hides  and  tallow. 

The  Captain  and  the  Engineer  have  lent  me  some  Books  and 
with  them  I can  while  the  hours.  A volume  or  two  of  American 
Speeches,  all  of  which  I had  read  before,  reviving  memories  of  events, 
a part  of  which  I was.  Some  of  them  read  strangely  now,  taken 
with  the  fulfilment  or  refutal  of  their  forecasts ; some  stronger,  some 
much  weaker  than  when  delivered.  Some  of  the  Speakers  disgraced, 
some  glorified  their  utterances.  Some  were  heroic  in  their  words 
alone ; some  far  more  heroic  in  their  deeds  than  in  their  promises. 
When  one  reaches  the  age  when  his  experiences  have  passed  into 
History,  how  interesting  is  their  revival — if  he  can  stand  the  strain. 

On  Sunday  morning,  before  the  Sun  was  up,  we  came  to  Man- 
sanillo.  I was  out  to  see,  and  enjoy  the  cool  and  bracing  air. 
The  Harbor,  like  that  at  Acapulco,  is  a fine  one — not  so  thoroughly 
shut  in,  but  sufficiently  to  make  it,  one  would  think,  quite  safe — 
save  it  might  be  from  a Southern  blast.  It  is  larger  than  that  of 
Acapulco. 

The  town  has  that  which  Acapulco  has  not — a Railway,  which 
extends  to  Colima — pronounced  Coleema — a run  of  ninety  miles, 
while  opening  up  the  Interior  gives  it  a larger  and  more  varied 
trade,  with  hopes  of  still  more  increasing  it  by  extension  to  the  City 
of  Mexico.  I was  interested  this  morning  in  watching  the  unload- 
ing of  the  freight  for  this  point,  and  seeing  how  exceedingly  small  a 
part  was  from  the  United  States;  nine-tenths  of  it  was  from  Great 
Britain  and  Germany,  a repetition  of  the  story  I often  told  in  South 
America,  you  remember. 

Together  with  Captain  and  Mrs.  Helmicks,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  South- 
gate,  Mr.  Tod,  and  one  or  two  others,  I went  ashore  in  one  of  the 
Boats.  It  is  a much  smaller  place  than  Acapulco,  though  its  trade 
is  larger,  for  the  reason  I have  given.  We  exhausted  the  little  town 
when  we  walked  along  the  street  facing  the  Harbor,  and  returned  by 


36 


LETTER  NO.  4. 


the  one  behind  it.  Being  Sunday,  most  of  the  Stores  were  closed, 
and  the  Streets  were  nicely  swept,  and  the  men,  women,  and  children 
were  in  their  best  appai’el;  and  some  of  the  young  ones  good-looking 
and  pretty,  with  their  clean  faces  and  bright  eyes.  They  have  an 
exceedingly  commonplace  Cathedral.  The  Service  was  over  there  on 
our  arrival.  They  have  a Plaza,  well  kept  and  filled  with  Tropical 
fruits  and  flowers.  Walking  across  the  town,  we  came  to  a Laguna, 
which  fills  the  Country  in  its  rear — across  which  the  Railway  goes 
upon  a Trestle — and  which  emits  odors  not  equal,  by  any  means, 
in  sweetness  to  the  Aroma  of  the  flowers  of  the  Plaza.  Cocks  were 
fastened  by  the  legs  here  and  there,  awaiting  action,  and  Mansanillo 
was  not  unlike  other  Mexican  towns  of  its  day  and  generation.  We 
spent  an  hour  or  two  thus  wandering,  and  then  returned.  The  Sun 
was  hot,  and  I held  to  the  shade  of  the  houses  or  my  umbrella. 

At  three  o’clock  in  the  afternoon  the  Steamer  left  Mansanillo.  I 
went  upon  the  Bridge  and  remained  there  several  hours,  enjoying 
the  breeze  and  outlook,  steaming  along  the  Coast.  The  Mountains 
continued  much  the  same,  and  the  Ocean  held  its  own.  Some  of  the 
Rocks  were  white  with  guano.  The  Captain  pointed  out  to  us  the 
wreck  of  the  Steamer  San  Francisco,  which  was  burned  more  than 
quarter  of  a century  ago ; many  passengers  went  down,  and  several 
millions  of  money — much  of  the  latter  was  recovered. 

After  sundown  a breeze  sprang  up,  and  became  too  fresh  for  us  on 
Deck.  Withdrawing  to  the  Saloon,  we  had  Service,  in  which  we  were 
led  by  Mr.  Tod — who  is  a member  of  the  Scotch  Episcopal  Church — 
and  then  the  Ladies  sang  some  Hymns,  during  which  I went  to  Bed 
and  was  soon  lulled  to  sleep  by  the  distant  sounds  stealing  through 
the  passages  and  apartments  to  my  Room. 

On  Same  Steamer, 

AND  AT  San  Blas,  Mexico, 

Monday,  December  23,  1889. 

We  did  not  reach  San  Bias — distant  from  Mansanillo  one  hundred 
and  ninety-seven  miles — till  eleven  o’clock  this  morning.  It  has 
no  Harbor — simply  an  open  Roadstead,  where  the  Vessels  anchor. 
Unlike  the  site  of  other  towns  of  which  I have  spoken,  the  Mountains 
break  away,  and  the  place  is  seated  on  a flat,  thick  set  with  Cocoa- 
Palms,  Bananas,  and  other  Tropic  growths,  out  of  which  peep  the 


STEAMSHIP  SAN  BIAS— SAN  BLAS. 


37 


native  houses,  covered  with  thatch,  looking  like  they  have  done,  I 
doubt  not,  for  generations  gone.  The  Custom  House  is  old,  too, 
having  been  built  by  the  Spaniards  years  ago — solid  and  conspicu- 
ous— to  whose  proportions  the  town  has  not  yet  grown. 

I could  see  all  worth  seeing  from  the  Deck,  therefore  did  not  go 
ashore.  They  tell  me  a Railroad  was  begun  not  long  since,  but 
never  finished,  and  the  complaints  of  San  Bias  are,  like  those  of  other 
towns  along  this  Coast,  that  the  Interior  Railways  have  robbed  them 
of  their  trade. 

This  morning,  whilst  we  came,  a whale  was  seen ; and  I observed 
a sword  fish,  said  to  be  his  mortal  enemy,  disporting  himself  in  high 
glee,  leaping  from  the  water  and  splashing  back,  preparing,  maybe, 
for  a contest.  They  say  the  fight  is  most  exciting.  The  sword  fish, 
with  lightning  speed,  coming  from  a distance,  plunges  his  sword  into 
the  huge  body  of  his  enemy ; quickly  withdrawing,  with  fierce 
velocity  he  again  and  again  pierces  his  bulky  foe,  until  his  carcass 
floats  lifeless  upon  the  water ; the  agility  and  speed  of  the  sword  fish 
is  too  much  for  the  unwieldly,  ponderous  bulk  of  the  so-called  mon- 
arch of  the  Seas. 

At  six  o’clock  we  left  San  Bias,  and  continued  on  our  journey. 
Two  conspicuous  Rocks,  white  with  Bird  Lime,  adorn  the  water- 
scene  around  the  Roadstead — one  near  the  Shore,  in  close  proximity 
to  our  anchorage — the  other  out  at  Sea.  We  steamed  around,  outside 
the  farther  one.  It  was  after  dark,  and  the  Captain  sent,  specially 
to  notify  me,  that  I might  see  it  close  to  the  Ship,  when  we  passed 
by  beneath  its  towering  shadow. 

On  Same  Steamer, 

AND  AT  MaZATLAN,  MeXICO, 

Tuesday,  December  24,  1889. 

At  six  o’clock  this  morning  we  came  to  Mazatlan — the  last  syllable 
pronounced  long.  This  entrance  surpassed  in  scenic  interest  all  the 
towns  we  have  seen  upon  either  Coast.  There  is  no  Harbor — only 
a Roadstead  open  to  the  Sea — but  around  and  about  it  are  Rocks  and 
Islands,  which  vie  with  each  other  in  beauty  of  site  and  outline — 
some  naked,  some  crowned  with  observatories  and  other  structures,  or 
covered  thick  with  vegetation.  These  lie  seemingly  on  both  hands ; 
in  front,  upon  the  mainland  Shore,  is  Mazatlan — its  domed  Cathedral 


38 


LETTER  NO.  4. 


dominating  the  town  from  its  highest  site,  whilst  most  of  its  houses 
are  hid  away  among  Cocoanut  trees  and  other  Tropic  growths. 

Many  of  us  went  ashore.  On  reaching  the  Landing  our  party  was 
numerous,  and  the  City  so  large,  that  we  agreed  to  separate  and  meet 
again  at  twelve  o’clock,  for  our  return. 

I w'andered  through  the  place,  now  with  one  and  now  with  another 
of  our  friends,  and  soon  saw  all  it  had  to  show  me — not  much.  It 
is  the  largest  Mexican  town  upon  the  Coast — numbering  twelve  or 
fifteen  thousand  people.  It  is  built  in  old  Spanish  style,  the  houses 
of  one  story,  generally  of  Brick  or  Adobe,  plastered,  with  iron  barred 
doors  and  windows — through  which  the  Patio  was  often  visible, 
planted  in  trees  and  flowers.  The  Streets  are  cpiite  regularly  laid  out 
and  reasonably  clean ; and  some  of  them  supplied  with  street-cars. 
I visited  many  of  the  Stores  and  stopped  at  the  Booths  along  the 
Streets  and  in  the  Markets.  But  there  was  little  of  home  production 
among  the  manufactured  articles.  Most  of  them  were  foreign,  and 
Toys  and  Jimcracks  of  German  make  abounded,  of  the  lightest  and 
flimsiest  character — making  ready  for  the  waste  of  the  Mexican’s 
frugal  store  at  the  Christmas  Time. 

We  passed  some  Schools — both  boys  and  girls — which  presented 
a neat  and  tidy  look,  and  the  little  things’  voices  were  heard  some 
steps  away,  studying  aloud  their  lessons.  Some  of  them  were  bright 
and  pretty.  The  hardships  of  life  and  climate  had  not  yet  wiped  off 
the  bloom,  and  creased  the  lines  of  toil  and  suffering. 

We  visited  the  Cathedral,  to  which,  like  many  other  things,  distance 
lends  enchantment.  It  is  a rather  plain,  but  quite  large,  affair — now 
undergoing  I’epair ; but  has  nothing  within  or  without  to  need  the 
comment  of  the  traveller. 

I got  away  from  the  other  members  of  the  party  and  wandered 
through  the  out-of-the-way  streets,  on  their  shady  side,  or  with  my 
umbrella.  The  Sun  was  hot ; — but  Mazatlan  is  just  South  of  the 
Cancer  Line,  and  I think  I can  feel  a tonic  in  the  air,  which  seems 
to  tide  from  temperate  Zones ; and  when  in  the  shade,  the  heat  is 
not  at  all  oppressive. 

When  I reached  the  Landing,  my  friends  not  yet  having  come  in, 
I went  to  the  Office  of  the  Commandante  of  the  Port,  near  by,  and  the 
Captain  and  Purser  coming  ashore,  introduced  me  to  him  and  I had 
much  pleasant  talk,  he  speaking  English  quite  well.  He  urged  the 
same  complaint  I have  hitherto  spoken  of : that  the  Mexican  Rail- 


STEAMSHIP  SAN  BLAS—OULF  OF  CALIFORNIA. 


39 


way  system  has  prostrated  the  Sea- Ports  on  the  Western  Coast,  by 
drawing  from  thtm  the  trade  which  they  hitherto  enjoyed.  That 
of  Mazatlan  is  less  than  before  they  were  made.  She  now  has  no 
Railroad  connection,  and  the  great  difficulties  of  its  construction  gives 
little  hope  of  its  speedy  coming.  Its  chief  px’oducts  are  Silver,  Cotton, 
Sugar,  and  Corn,  and  it  was  interesting  to  see  the  long  line  of  Pack- 
mules  coming  in  with  their  heavy  loads — the  chief  mode  of  trans- 
portation from  the  Interior. 

By  one  o’clock  we  were  back  again  upon  the  Steamer.  I spent 
the  afternoon  on  Deck,  enjoying  the  outlook  and  the  breezes,  whose 
temperature  I could  not  have  improved,  and  at  six  o’clock  p.  m.  we 
steamed  out  for  San  Francisco — the  last  link  of  the  long  chain  from 
New  York — distant  thirteen  hundred  and  forty  seven  miles. 

On  Same  Steamee, 

Gulf  of  Califoenia, 

Christmas,  Wednesday,  December  25,  1889. 

Christmas  Day  ! so  far  from  Home  and  so  unlike  in  climate  and 
surroundings  those  I spend  when  there  ! 

But  the  Ladies,  who  are  all  from  regions  like  my  own,  and  the 
Captain  and  the  Officers  of  the  Ship  have  been  busy  for  several  days 
in  making  ready  for  its  celebration.  At  the  towns  where  we  have 
stopped,  purchases  have  been  made,  and  at  Mazatlan  an  Oleander 
was  obtained  for  a Christmas  Tree,  and  all  day  long  everybody  has 
been  busy  making  ready. 

The  day  was  consumed  in  crossing  the  Gulf  of  California — most  of 
the  time  out  of  sight  of  land.  At  sundown  we  rounded  Cape  Saint 
Lucas.  The  Captain  invited  me  to  the  Bridge,  and  the  scene  was 
one  of  exquisite  beauty.  It  is  among  the  finest  Headlands  I know — 
bare  rock  without  a sprig  of  vegetation,  broken  into  pinnacles  and 
domes — not  unlike  the  Needles  of  the  Isle  of  Weight — upon  which 
the  Sea  Birds  make  their  home,  and  over  which  hundreds  of  them 
were  circling,  preparing  for  their  rest.  Some  of  these  fine  Rocks  were 
yellow,  others  were  the  color  of  granite — all  were  marked  by  the 
elements,  cut  and  carved  into  arches  and  caverns  or  jagged  points, 
or  smoothed  by  the  countless  years  of  storm  of  wind  and  wave,  to 
which,  thrown  into  the  great  Ocean,  they  have  been  subjected.  The 
Sea  was  very  calm,  and  we  steamed  quite  near,  though  the  Captain 


40 


LETTER  NO.  4. 


said  the  depth  was  from  five  hundred  to  a thousand  feet.  There  was 
no  wind — only  the  gentle  breeze  made  by  the  moving  Ship,  or  the 
swell  of  air  and  water  coming  from  the  vast  Deep,  when  in  rounding 
the  Cape,  we  opened  up  its  volume.  I will  not  soon  forget  this  noble 
Headland,  seen  this  Christmas  Day,  burnished  with  the  glories  of  the 
Setting  Sun. 

After  Dinner  our  Christmas  festivities  came  off  The  Ladies  had 
made  quite  creditable  preparations.  They  got  up  a Libretto  of  greet- 
ings to  the  Captain,  each  contributing  a Merry  Christmas ! Mine 
was  thus : 

“ A Merry  Christmas  to  you.  Captain  Johnston,  of  the  good  Ship 
San  Bias ! 

“ Many  a night  have  you  stood  beneath  the  Stars  and  conducted 
us  safely  on  our  Ocean  way,  whilst  we  slept  in  confident  assurance 
of  your  pluck  and  skill. 

“ May  the  Star  which  heralded  to  the  World  this  blissful  day — a 
Star  more  glorious  than  all  the  Constellations — ever  shine  upon  your 
Life,  and  fill  your  Heart  and  Home  with  perennial  Peace  and  Joy  ! ” 

Then  they  had  little  stories  written  by  the  Ladies  and  some  of 
the  young  men — sounding  not  unlike  a Commencement,  and  the 
disrobing  of  the  Christmas  Tree.  The  Captain  and  all  the  Officers 
appeared,  the  Purser  acting  as  Santa  Claus — the  whole  closing  with 
a Dance,  such  as  the  area  of  our  Saloon  allowed.  Thus  the  Evening 
was  consumed — a creditable  affair,  considering  the  limited  resources 
of  a Ship.  I was  strongly  tempted  to  make  a Speech,  and  was  urged, 
but  regarding  silence  as  golden,  refrained. 

But  what  was  all  this  to  me?  My  heart  was  far  away  across  the 
Continent  and  with  my  Dear  ones,  where  it  ever  is  and  ought  to  be 
at  these  Christmas  Times.  The  festivities  on  the  Ship  were  simple 
shadows,  which  did  not  seem  to  touch  me,  and  I wearied  of  them, 
thinking  what  you  were  all  about,  and  longing  to  be  with  you.  At 
such  hours,  I resolve,  I will  never  go  from  Home  again.  What 
would  I do,  did  not  these  Letters  keep  you  by  my  side?  When  I 
am  writing,  I am  talking  to  you  and  telling  you  what  I see ; and  my 
daily  invocations  ever  carry  you  on  their  wings. 

Thus  is  it  on  this  Christmas  Evening,  and  I send  you  its  precious 
greetings,  with  everything  that  term  implies. 

At  seven  o’clock  p.  m.  we  crossed  again  the  Tropic  Line  and  were 
in  our  own  Temperate  Zone  once  more. 


STEAMSHIP  SAN  BIAS— OFF  LOWER  CALIFORNIA. 


41 


On  the  Same  Steamer, 

OFF  Lower  California, 

Thursday  and  Friday,  December  26  and  27,  1889. 

Sometimes  the  Coast  Line  during  these  two  days  was  near,  some- 
times out  of  sight.  Yesterday  we  passed  through  a Fog  drift — of 
small  proportions,  however,  soon  emerging  into  a clear  Sky  again. 
Whales  now  and  then  appeared,  disporting  themselves  and  tossing 
their  little  fountains  in  the  air.  The  broad  expanse  of  the  great 
Ocean  is  felt  more,  and  the  Ship  rises  and  falls  with  its  swell — but 
gently,  for  there  is  no  storm  abroad  and  its  surface  is  calm  enough. 

The  temperature  grows  perceptibly  cooler — no  torrid  heat  prevails 
now ; but  the  transition  is  very  gradual,  and  biting  frosts  have  not 
by  any  means  shown  their  teeth — only  a more  vigoi'ous  and  vital 
tone,  suiting  our  temperate  systems  better  than  heat.  The  Mountains 
are  absolutely  void  of  vegetation — seared  and  seamed  with  Volcanic 
fires,  reminding  me  in  this  respect  of  those  you  heard  so  much  of  on 
my  last  Tour,  save  they  are  hardly  more  than  worthy  to  be  called 
the  Foothills  of  the  famous  Andes.  Two  or  three  bulkier  than  the 
others,  we  were  told,  were  almost  entirely  of  Iron  ore,  and  their 
metallic  look  confirmed  the  story.  And  when  the  Mountains  let 
down  and  expanded  into  plains,  the  same  ai’id,  barren  scene  met  the 
eye,  absolutely  beyond  the  reach  of  cultivation  without  water,  and 
no  water  appeared  any  where  to  be  present,  save  that  of  the  Ocean, 
which  washed  the  shores.  Lower  California  certainly  presents  a far 
from  attractive  look,  and  the  outside  view,  we  learn,  affords  a sample 
of  most  of  this  long  Peninsula — save,  perhaps,  a few  Valleys  opening 
inside  upon  the  Gulf.  The  climate  is,  however,  said  to  be  most 
salubrious,  and  on  this  side  the  Continent  presents  the  same  combi- 
nation that  we  have  in  Florida  upon  the  other  in  a different  phase — 
ninety-five  per  cent  climate  and  five  resources — here  of  rock  and  ore, 
there  of  water.  This  is  much  what  our  Geographies  used  to  tell  us 
in  our  School-boy  days. 

An  Englishman  by  the  name  of  Lloyd,  from  Shropshire,  and  with 
him  an  American  by  the  name  of  Hamilton,  from  Ohio,  got  aboard 
at  the  last  stopping  place.  They  have  been  prospecting  for  metals 
in  Mexico,  and  are  now  on  their  way  to  San  Francisco.  In  the 
evening,  I had  a good  deal  of  talk  with  them.  Lloyd  has  been 


42 


LETTER  NO.  4. 


much  of  a wanderer,  and  gives  interesting  accounts  of  his  experiences 
by  flood  and  field.  In  what  part  of  the  World  are  not  Englishmen 
and  our  Teutonic  Brothers  now  not  found,  trying  their  fortunes  or 
looking  for  pleasure  ? 

On  Same  Steamer, 

OFF  Lower  California,  and  the  State  of  California, 
Saturday  and  Sunday,  December  28  and  29,  1889. 

All  day  of  Saturday  we  continued  to  Coast  Lower  California.  The 
scene  was  much  the  same — Mountains  without  vegetation,  seared  and 
seamed  and  of  metallic  look,  rising  in  recession  from  the  Coast,  with 
intei’esting  outlines.  The  weather,  too,  continued  to  grow  cooler  from 
hour  to  hour,  and  in  the  afternoon  we  were  breasting  quite  a gale. 

The  Captain  sent  for  me  at  about  four  o’clock  p.  m.  to  witness  the 
approach  to,  and  passage  of  Cape  Colnett,  one  of  the  finest  Head- 
lands in  the  World,  in  his  estimation.  Since  I have  seen  it,  I do  not 
think  he  overestimates  its  magnificence.  It  is  about  one  hundred 
miles  south  of  the  Boundary  Line  between  the  United  States  and 
Mexico,  and  presents  the  appearance  of  an  immense  Fortress.  It 
rises  from  the  Ocean — projected  into  it  with  clean-cut  front  like  a 
wall — embracing,  perhaps,  a line  of  five  or  six  miles,  washed  by 
the  waters.  Apparently  built  by  human  hands,  it  rises  two  or  three 
hundred  feet — constructed  of  stones  of  different  color  and  quality — 
the  lower  half  seemingly  of  yellow  Sandstone  of  Cyclopean  cut  and 
architecture — the  huge  rocks  seeming  to  be  hewn  and  fit  in  layers — 
the  upper  half  apparently  rubble  work  of  dark  granite,  firmly  set 
by  cement,  and  durable  as  the  rock  itself.  Between  these  two  there 
runs  a horizontal  line,  straight  as  the  mason’s  cord  could  make  it. 
The  top  of  the  space  enclosed  with  this  singular  wall  is  level,  with 
a slight  inclination  to  the  Land.  The  detritus  has  in  ages  fallen 
Seaward  at  the  base,  and  for  all  the  world  looks  like  buttresses  to 
strengthen  the  vast  imposing  structure. 

The  Setting  Sun  helped  to  deepen  the  impression,  and  heighten 
the  majesty  of  this  great  work  of  Nature,  like  it  did  the  Cape  Lucas 
Headland  a few  days  ago ; and  the  Sea  Birds  came,  too,  and  added 
their  graceful  forms  and  flight  to  the  exceeding  attractiveness  of  the 
scene. 

The  Captain  said  he  did  not  think  he  would  reach  and  pass  San 
Diego  in  California,  on  its  South  Coast  Line,  till  after  daylight.  I 


STEAMSHIP  SAN  BIAS— OFF  CALIFORNIA. 


43 


wished  to  see  it,  now  one  of  the  Health  Resorts  of  the  Pacific,  and 
boasting  the  largest  Hotel  in  the  World — larger  than  the  Ponce  de 
Leon  of  St.  Augustine,  which  claims  the  same  on  our  side  of  the 
Continent — and  covering,  it  is  said,  four  acres  of  ground.  We  pass 
in  full  view  and  if  it  be  in  the  day  time,  the  whole  can  be  well  seen. 
The  wind,  however,  lulled  during  the  night  and  this  morning,  and 
the  Steamer  quickening  her  pace,  the  First  Officer  came  to  my  Room 
and  aroused  me  at  half-past  five  o’clock,  saying  we  were  in  front  of 
San  Diego  and  its  lights  were  conspicuous.  My  window  opened  on 
the  scene,  and  getting  up  I found  that  daylight  had  not  yet  arrived, 
and  the  Electric  Lamps  of  the  big  Hotel  -wei’e  full  in  view. 

When  I arose  and  went  on  Deck  this  morning,  the  Mountains  of 
California,  of  the  Inner  Range,  were  white  with  snow  from  base  to 
top.  We  have  clean  passed  from  Equatorial  heats  to  the  climes  where 
Winter  comes.  The  Thermometer  in  the  Saloon  where  I am  now 
writing  has  fallen  to  62°.  At  eleven  o’clock  we  had  Service  in  the 
Saloon,  read  again  by  Mr.  Tod  ; and  after  Lunch  I went  to  the 
Bridge  to  view  the  outlook.  Under  a cloudless  Sky,  and  over  a calm 
and  deep  blue  Sea,  for  hours  I enjoyed  the  scene,  the  second  Range 
of  Mountains  adding  to  its  beauty  and  interest  by  their  thick  clothing 
of  fresh-fallen  snow.  The  air  was  not  chill  and  cold — only  tem- 
pered by  a tonic  which  does  not  belong  to  the  Coasts  of  the  Zone  we 
have  just  left.  I found  from  the  Captain’s  Chart  that  some  of  these 
Mountains  are  very  high,  and  will  hardly  put  off  their  white  garments 
before  the  coming  Summer.  I transcribe  some  of  them  and  their 
elevations — San  Gabriel,  six  thousand  two  hundred  and  two  feet ; 
Gleasius,  six  thousand  four  hundred  and  fourteen ; San  Antonio,  nine 
thousand  nine  hundred  and  thirty-one;  San  Bernardino,  ten  thousand ; 
Grizzly  Peak,  eleven  thousand  seven  hundred  and  twenty-five. 

Between  two  and  three  o’clock  we  passed  San  Pedro — now  quite  a 
town — situated  upon  the  high  Shore  conspicuously  : backed  by  the 
Mountains  of  which  I have  just  spoken.  Inland,  Northeast,  is  Los 
Angeles — now,  you  know,  with  its  surrounding  country,  a quite 
famous  Sanitarium  and  fruit-growing  region  of  which,  reaching  it 
from  across  the  Continent,  I told  you  on  my  First  Tour. 

My  friend  Mr.  Lloyd  took  a group  of  us  on  Deck  with  his  travel- 
ling camera. 

The  whole  afternoon  was,  in  its  temperature,  well-nigh  perfect, 
and  the  Deck  was  enjoyable  accordingly,  and  I stood  there  till 


44 


LETTER  NO.  4. 


Dinner  time — soon  after  which  I went  to  Bed.  This  you  will 
doubtless  say,  was  an  early  hour,  and  gave  me  a long  night’s  rest. 
I admit  it;  but  almost  every  night  I retire  at  that  hour,  giving 
myself  twelve  hours  in  Bed.  If  I do  not  sleep,  I rest  and  think ; 
and  at  Sea  I find  no  more  valuable  hours,  and  never  weary  of  their 
length.  I have  told  you  before,  I think,  on  this  or  other  Tours, 
that  there  is  no  safer  regimen  for  the  traveller,  than  to  sleep  as 
much  and  eat  as  little  as  he  can ; — and  to  the  business  man,  no  less 
important,  in  this  active,  unresting  age  of  ours. 

On  Same  Steamship, 

ON  Coast  of  California, 

Monday,  December  30,  1889. 

This  is  the  last  day  of  our  long  voyage.  To-morrow  early  we 
expect  to  be  in  San  Francisco,  and  end  a Journey  which  began  in 
New  York  on  the  second  of  this  month — in  its  water  travel  only 
broken  by  the  Isthmus — a distance  from  New  York  of  five  thousand 
seven  hundred  and  twenty-two  miles. 

Its  calm  experiences  have  been  most  wonderful.  Not  a single 
contretemps.  From  the  day  we  left  New  York,  even  on  the  Atlantic 
side  in  the  Winter  time,  and  through  the  Tropics  on  both  sides  the 
Continent,  only  favorable  weather — the  elements  seeming  to  con- 
spire to  make  it  almost  perfect.  To-day  there  came  a change  : not 
serious,  only  some  rain  and  mist,  enough  to  make  the  Fog  Horn 
sound,  to  notify  our  fellow-voyagers  on  other  Ships  to  look  out  and 
not  run  “ agin  ” us. 

Whilst  I write  the  fog  prevails,  and  the  Coast  Line  has  disappeared 
behind  it.  Before  it  came,  about  midday,  we  passed  close  by  Pedras 
Blancas — White  Rocks — Lighthouse,  and  saw  some  whales  spouting 
and  wallowing  in  the  Sea,  and  Gulls  in  numbers  circling  our  Ship 
on  untiring  wing. 

To-morrow  I will  close  this  Letter,  immediately  on  my  arrival 
in  the  City — not  even  waiting  to  go  to  ray  Banker’s  and  get  yours, 
which  I hope  are  waiting  there  for  me.  I know  you  want  to  hear 
of  my  safe  arrival,  and,  therefore,  will  speed  this  off  forthwith. 

I forgot  to  say,  that  the  whole  Coast  of  California  is  high — and 
few  habitations  showed  themselves.  Rarely  any  trees  appeared : — 
now  and  then  in  the  gulches  and  barrancas  thei'e  were  groves — seem- 


STEAMSHIP  SAN  BLAS— CALIFORNIA. 


45 


ingly  of  Pine — about  which  there  were,  also,  a few  houses.  The 
Mountains,  however,  were  not  barren  and  devoid  of  all  life,  but  were 
frequently  green  with  grass  : — this  is  the  Rainy  Season. 

On  Same  Steamer, 

AND  AT  San  Francisco, 

Tuesday,  December  31,  1889. 

Last  night  head  winds  arose,  and  the  mighty  waters  got  up  a swell 
which  tossed  our  Ship  considerably,  and  delayed  our  coming  into 
San  Francisco  to  a much  later  hour  than  the  Captain  expected.  He 
thought  he  would  get  in  by  daylight;  but  it  was  ten  o’clock  before 
we  were  landed  at  the  Wharf. 

But  the  winds  spent  themselves  and  we  came  into  the  Golden  Gate 
under  happiest  auspices.  You  have  several  times  before,  with  me, 
passed  in  and  out  this  Portal,  and  I will  not  stop  to  tell  you  of  it. 
On  the  Westward,  the  Farrallone  Islands  loomed  up,  and  soon  the 
clean-cut  entrance  to  the  Harbor  towards  the  Northeast ; then  the 
Cliff  House  and  Sutro’s  Park  and  Villa  and  the  Seal  Rocks  in 
front,  the  waves  dashing  over  them  in  spray ; and  when  we  entered, 
on  the  left,  Angel  Island,  in  front,  Alcatraz,  and  on  the  right  the 
City  opened  out — all  beneath  a cloudless  Sky  and  with  pleasant 
temperature. 

The  Captain  introduced  me  to  the  Agent  of  the  Line  at  this  end, 
who  came  aboard  and  tendered  me  many  civilities.  He  sent  his 
First  Officer  to  introduce  me  to  the  Customs  Officers,  who  soon  put 
my  Baggage  through.  I took  the  Omnibus  and  sent  my  trunk  by 
the  Transfer  Company — and  here  I am  at  the  Occidental  Hotel  and 
writing  this  in  my  Room. 

I will  now  close  this  long  Letter  and  speed  it  off,  forthwith,  with 
tenderest  love  for  all,  and  then  look  after  yours  at  my  Banker’s. 

F. 

Have  you  heard  from  Mrs.  Nelson — is  she  with  you  ? Tell  her 
to  write. 

How  are  all  in  Alexandria — and  our  neighbors  ? 


F. 


46 


LETTER  NO.  5. 


[No.  5.] 


My  Dear  Margaret, — 


San  Francisco,  California, 
Occidental  Hotel, 

Wednesday,  January  1,  1890. 


Immediately  on  my  arrival  here  yesterday  I mailed  No.  4 to  Tay- 
lor, which  you  will  have  learned,  I trust,  before  this  reaches  you  by 
due  course  of  Post.  That  tells  you  briefly  of  my  Travel  happenings 
to  my  reaching  this  City.  I bade  Good  Bye  ! to  my  fellow-voyagers, 
all  of  whom  by  this  time  I knew,  who  wished  me  every  favorable 
fortune,  and  many  of  whom  thanked  me  flatteringly  for  the  pleasure 
my  intercourse  with  them  had  afforded.  I parted,  too,  in  the  same 
kindly  manner  with  the  Captain  and  the  other  Officers,  every  one  of 
whom  had  been  untiring  in  his  attention  to  me,  and  done  everything 
in  his  power  to  make  my  time  both  pleasant  and  profitable. 

My  German  Friend,  Mr.  Gericke,  Mrs.  Winter  and  her  two  chil- 
dren, Mr.  Helmicks  and  his  Wife  and  Mr.  Benjamin — the  young 
U.  S.  Officers — and  I took  the  Omnibus  of  this  Hotel  and  very  soon 
I was  fixed  in  my  Chamber,  where  I am  writing  these  lines. 

First  of  all,  after  securing  my  Room,  I went  to  the  Bank  of  Cali- 
fornia to  get  the  mail  which  I felt  sure  had  gathered  there  for  me. 
The  Officer  gave  me  a bundle  of  Letters  and  Papers ; I hurried  to 
my  Chamber  with  the  treasure,  and  the  afternoon  was  spent  in  com- 
muning with  you  all,  the  California  world  “shut  out.”  There  were 
four  from  you,  viz. : December  1,  December  8,  December  15,  Decem- 
ber 22;  from  Charles  three,  viz. : December  6,  December  13,  Decem- 
ber 19;  from  Taylor  four,  viz. : December  2,  December  8,  December 
13,  December  19 ; from  Mary  one,  December  8. 

Yours  were  a fine  budget.  When  the  Doctor  told  you,  you  were 
bothering  me  with  trash,  you  were  right  in  admonishing  him,  that 
he  did  not  know  what  he  was  talking  about.  The  recital  of  the  little 
things  and  events  about  the  community  grow  into  Historic  interest 
by  travel,  and,  as  I have  many  times  written  you  on  former  Tours, 
photograph  Home  and  its  surroundings.  Keep  on  writing  just  such 
Letters  during  my  long  Tour ; they  bear  with  them  the  Story  of  the 
spot,  the  dearest  to  me  of  all  the  Earth,  whatever  portion  of  it  I may 


SAN  FRANCISCO. 


47 


visit.  If  Mrs.  Nelson  has  come  to  you  by  this  time,  give  her  my 
love  and  tell  her  to  write  me  a good  long  Letter,  brimful  of  news, 
in  response  to  at  least  two  of  mine,  which  she  has  failed  to  answer, 
telling  me  where  she  has  been  and  what  she  has  seen.  I hope  her 
health  is  entirely  restored.  I am  sorry  to  hear  Cousin  Fred  has  not 
been  well.  Give  both  her  and  Cousin  Bet  my  love.  I am  sorry  to 
learn  of  Judge  Green’s  death,  but  glad  to  hear  of  Dan  Lucas’  appoint- 
ment to  the  Judgeship  of  the  Court  of  Appeals  to  fill  the  vacancy — 
it  is,  I feel  sui-e,  a good  appointment.  Congratulate  him  and  Mrs. 
Lucas  from  me,  and  tell  her  I am  satisfied  he  will  fill  the  position 
with  credit  to  himself  and  honor  to  his  State.  Tell  the  Doctor — 
with  my  love — he  is  right ; keep  on  promising  to  write — if  he  does 
write  he  will  fulfil  his  promise — if  he  does  not,  like  the  American 
Indian,  “ he  has  all  the  time  there  is  ” to  do  it  in. 

To  Charles:  Your  Letters  came,  as  ever,  bringing  pleasure  with 
them.  I am  glad  to  hear  you  are  all  well,  including  Mrs.  Nelson. 
My  love  to  everybody  at  home  and  in  Charley’s  Household.  Christ- 
mas with  both  has  come  and  gone  since  you  wrote.  I remembered 
you  on  the  Sea,  and  wrote  greetings,  which  I trust  will  reach  you 
before  this  comes  to  hand.  I heard  of  Jefferson  Davis’  death  on  the 
way — a telegram  had  been  received  at  one  of  the  towns  announcing 
it.  His  was  a varied  life,  and  few  men  have  lived  under  bitterer  and 
more  revengeful  obloquy : and  few  men  have  passed  through  its  .fire 
more  stainless.  His  bad  health  and  fierce  trials  made  him  say  and 
do  things  that  had  been  better  left  unsaid  and  undone ; but  no  man  can 
assert,  with  truth,  that  his  ability  was  not  great,  and  his  intentions 
above  reproach.  With  him — indeed,  with  all  the  Leaders  of  our 
Cause — there  will  be  no  controversy  in  “ after  time  ” that  they  were 
Knightly  Gentlemen,  fit  representatives  of  a Civilization  than  which 
no  higher,  richer,  more  refined  adorns  the  Realm  of  History.  “Time 
at  last  sets  all  things  even.”  Recognition  of  Davis’  lofty  qualities 
of  head  and  heart  came  sooner  than  to  most  who  have  led  a Failing 
Cause.  For  Centuries,  Cromwell’s  memory,  like  his  bones,  were  lost. 
Now,  his  Countrymen  go  about  to  find  the  true  story  of  his  Life  and 
build  monuments  to  his  name  to  show  what  a glory  he  was  to  the 
Anglo-Saxon  Race.  There  is  vitality  in  our  Southland  yet,  breathing 
the  spirit  of  the  Civilization  of  which  none  of  us  need  feel  ashamed. 
Witness  our  late  triumph  in  Virginia — all  things  considered,  one  of 
the  grandest  in  her  annals  ; witness  the  outburst  of  chivalric  feeling 


48 


LETTER  NO.  5. 


which  bore  upon  its  wings  the  late  Chief  of  the  Confederacy  to  his 
place  among  the  Galaxy  of  our  departed  great  ones — a feeling  more 
honorable  to  the  living  than  the  Dead — “ There  is  Life  in  the  Old 
Land  yet !” — Kind  wishes  to  Mrs.  Blackburn.  Tell  her  I am  glad 
she  enjoys  wandering  with  me  amid  the  Lights  and  Shadows  of 
the  Midnight  Sun.  Tell  Louise  and  Taylor  it  is  pleasant  to  know 
that  they  are  tracing  my  lines  of  Travel  on  the  Map.  I trust  no 
misfortune  may  befall  to  interrupt  their  pursuit  of  me  around  the 
World. 

To  3Iary : This  may  find  you  in  Winchester,  from  what  you  said 
in  your  Letter.  Fix  things  up  nicely  for  your  Uncle  Taylor,  before 
you  start  upon  the  trip  to  Fredericksburg  and  Alexandria  you  have 
in  view ; and  when  you  go,  may  your  visit  be  filled  with  enjoyment 
to  the  overflowing ! 

To  Taylor : Your  Letters  were  like  Margaret’s,  newsy,  and,  there- 
fore, good.  You  tell  me  of  John  Stephenson  shingling  at  Lewis 
Huck’s  : — did  he  fix  up  the  Palings  near  the  corner  on  Washington 
Street,  and  the  fence  opposite  John  Kulton’s,  and  the  water  gate  in 
the  back  part  of  the  Lot  ? You  speak  of  Rogers  and  the  Corn  Crop 
and  Hogs — you  say  nothing  about  the  balance  of  the  Wheat  Crop, 
undelivered  when  I left,  and  at  what  price  and  the  number  of  Bushels. 
I would  like  you  to  keep  the  Road  in  mind — not,  of  course,  do 
unnecessary  work,  but  not  let  it  get  out  of  order  to  such  an  extent 
as  to  require  a heavy  outlay.  Don’t  forget  to  see  West  Baker  and 
Ed.  Hollis  with  regard  to  the  new  assessment.  I gave  you  the  state- 
ment Hollis  and  I agreed’ would  be  right  and  proper,  and  the  result 
of  my  talk  with  West  Baker.  I am  truly  glad  that  Cousin  Mary 
stood  the  operation  so  well  that  it  resulted  better  than  you  anticipated. 
Give  her  my  kind  wishes  and  tender  love.  Did  she  get  the  Letter 
I sent  her  just  before  I left?  I notice  what  you  say  about  the  Lot 
and  the  Hotel.  I have  no  idea  that  anything  will  come  of  it.  But 
in  case  a question  should  be  made  about  the  price,  I think  you 
had  better  act  upon  the  terms  of  my  offer — which  Margaret  wrote 
you  about  when  I saw  her  in  Charlestown.  I am  glad  to  hear  that 
Carter  is  lively  and  bright  and  is  teaching  Briggs  to  handle  himself. 
It  was  a good  thing  that  Dainger  Lewis  was  again  elected  President 
of  the  Fair.  He  is  admirably  adapted  to  it.  I have  hopes  now, 
that  under  the  happy  auspices  of  the  Railroad’s  help,  it  may  flourish 
beyond  anything  in  its  previous  history.  Of  course,  it  would  have 


SAN  FRANCISCO. 


49 


been  out  of  the  question  for  me  to  have  accepted  the  position.  I note 
what  you  say  about  the  Shoe  Factory;  I hope  something  may  be 
done  to  your  entire  satisfaction.  I read  our  Friend’s  proceedings, 
published  in  the  town  papers  you  sent  me.  He  made  a mistake, 
which  his  Calling  ever  does  when  they  leave  their  own  sphere  of 
action  to  dabble  in  matters  of  and  about  which  they  know  nothing — 
and  hurt  themselves  and  the  Cause  they  advocate.  A speech  more  full 
of  Political  and  Economical  blunders  one  would  not  wish  to  see.  Our 
Friend,  from  want  of  study  and  knowledge,  not  from  want  of  high 
intention  and  purity  and  earnestness  of  motive,  will  only  sow  the 
seeds  of  discontent,  which,  unless  remedied,  must  bloom  into  an  ugly 
harvest.  I heard  a gentleman  of  considerable  native  capacity  say, 
that  men  only  could,  grow  rich  by  stealing  from  somebody  else.  Not 
a few  of  our  Friend’s  positions  are  equally  untenable.  Happily,  the 
first-named  gentleman’s  views  were  expressed  in  the  pulpit  and  died 
in  their  utterance,  exciting  simple  wonder  at  their  ignorance;  our 
Friend’s  were  before  a Popular  Assembly,  and  who  can  tell  what 
harm  they  may  do?  The  chief  trouble  in  our  town  at  this  time  is 
want  of  employment  and  willingness  to  work;  if  our  Friend  can  give 
the  unemployed  work,  and  induce  them  to  perform  it,  he  will  tend 
to  remedy  the  evils  and  annoyances  of  which  he  speaks.  Gratuitous 
charity  is  not  a blessing;  it  is  a curse,  humiliating  to  the  recipient, 
and  begetting  not  gratitude,  but  a spirit  of  hate  to  avenge  the  humili- 
ation. Alas  ! he  does  not  seem  to  know  that  his  line  of  remark  will 
only  aggravate ; it  will  not  cure.  What  help  is  it  to  them,  when  out 
of  employment,  to  meet  in  Assembly,  and  spend  their  time  and  what 
little  money  they  may  have,  that  ought  to  be  spent  with  and  upon  their 
families,  in  vexing  each  other  into  mutiny  and  discontent  by  exacer- 
bating their  troubles  or  finding  a scapegoat  in  some  other  class  or 
classes  of  their  fellow-citizens?  I fear  if  our  Friend  continues  in  these 
courses  he  will  not  be  the  Minister  of  the  Peace  he  proposes  and  hopes 
to  be,  but  rather  a disturber  of  it.  If  he  will  reflect,  he  will  find  his 
views  have  been  those  of  agitators  ever  since  Labor  and  Capital  began 
their  career  among  civilized  men — or  since  Ailsop  wrote  the  Fable  of 
the  Stomach  and  the  Members.  Let  us  have  quiet  and  not  controversy. 
Let  us  preach  the  doctrines  which  tend  to  crown  the  individual  with 
noble  virtues,  and  every  Department  of  Society  and  of  Government 
and  every  sphere  of  action  will  flourish  in  order  and  contentment ; 
and,  our  Friend  may  rest  assured,  ineluded  in  them  will  be  that  of 
4 


50 


LETTER  NO.  5. 


Political  Economy.  This  Science,  above  all  others,  in  the  wise  dis- 
pensation of  Providence,  most  flourishes  when  each  individual  works 
out  his  own  destiny,  provided  he  does  it  along  those  lines,  which  it 
is  the  sensible  and  good  man’s  especial  duty  to  inculcate.  Thus  much 
for  our  Friend.  I hope  sincerely  for  his  own  good  and  that  of  our 
community  and  the  peace  and  harmony  of  our  Society,  he  will  call  a 
halt.  Recently  he  tried  what  he  thought  were  new  things  in  another 
arena;  he  finds  them  already  threadbare.  So  he  will  find  in  his  new 
venture  on  the  field  of  Political  Economy  and  Ethics.  Kind  wishes 
for  all  the  neighbors  and  Dr.  Fuller  and  inquiring  friends.  Tell  the 
Doctor  to  look  after  you  while  I am  gone.  I return  you  Mr.  B.  F. 
Brown’s  Letter.  You  ought  have  written  to  him  of  my  absence. 
I am  sure  Holmes  Conrad  will  give  it  attention.  I don’t  wish  to  be 
thought  neglectful.  This  covers,  I believe,  all  matters  alluded  to  in 
your  Letters. 

In  the  afternoon  I strolled  about  the  City.  In  the  evening  the 
Reporters,  learning  I was  here,  called  to  see  me  and  pay  their  respects. 
I received  and  treated  them  courteously ; but,  as  usual,  politely  de- 
clined to  be  interviewed  about  Virginia,  or  other  Public  matters, 
telling  them  I had  always  during  my  life  observed  that  course,  and 
had  in  my  experience  reason  with  it  to  be  fully  satisfied.  They  took 
it  in  good  part,  and  their  allusions  to  me  in  this  morning’s  Papers 
were  eulogistic  in  the  extreme — “my  great  abilities” — “my  extensive 
travels  ” — “ my  vast  learning  ” — “ my  large  wealth  ” — all  of  which, 
in  the  goodness  of  their  heart,  they  “ made  up.”  None  of  which, 
however,  do  I propose  to  correct  in  to-morrow’s  issue — they  hurt 
nobody  and  are  forgotten  soon  as  read. 

To-day — January  1 — I devoted  much  of  my  time  to  the  reading 
of  the  batch  of  Papers  Taylor  sent — especially  interested  in  the  Locals 
of  our  town.  I have  already  commented  on  things  I there  saw. 

I met  Colonel  Mosby  and  we  had  a friendly  greeting.  He  politely 
tendered  his  services  in  any  way  in  his  power  whilst  he  is  here,  for 
to-morrow  he  leaves  for  Washington,  to  argue  his  Case  before  the 
Supreme  Court,  in  relation  to  certain  fees  due  him  as  Consul  at 
Hong-Kong,  which  he  says  amount  to  fifty  thousand  dollars.  He 
went  with  me  to  the  Palace  Hotel  and  introduced  me  to  Captain 
Morse  of  the  Steamship  Alameda — which  I will  take  to  Auckland. 
He,  also,  introduced  me  to  J udge  James  D.  Thornton  of  Virginia, 
a brother  of  Jack  Thornton,  once  a prominent  man  in  our  State. 


SAN  FRANCISCO. 


51 


He  received  me  most  cordially.  The  Judge  has  been  here  for  thirty- 
five  years.  I am  afraid  too  many  will  find  me  out  and  disturb  my 
quiet. 

Mosby  told  me  Miss  Mary  Smith,  daughter  of  our  old  Friend 
Governor  William  Smith,  was  at  the  Lick  House.  Knowing  her 
and  her  Father  so  well,  I went  to  see  her,  and  had  a most  cordial 
reception  and  pleasant  chat. 

The  day,  like  yesterday,  has  been  clear  and  bright,  and  I took  a 
long  stroll  abont  the  City  in  the  afternoon.  I shall  not  trouble  you 
with  any  description  of  San  Francisco ; I have  told  you  enough  on 
former  Tours.  Ko  separate  and  distinguishing  objects  of  interest 
have  come  since  then.  They  claim  that  its  population  has  grown  to 
three,  even  some  insist  four,  hundred  thousand  people.  Certainly 
many  handsome  structures  have  gone  up  in  various  sections.  But  bad 
streets — the  bane  of  American  Cities — badly  paved  and  now  worse 
here  by  the  long  rains — meet  you  everywhere.  There  is  nothing  at 
the  Theatres  to  call  me  out,  and  I go  to  bed  early. 

San  Francisco,  California, 

Same  Hotel, 

Thursday,  January  2,  1890. 

The  day  opened  badly.  When  I went  out  the  rain  was  pouring 
in  torrents  and  it  continued  all  day.  They  tell  me  that  of  my  arrival 
and  yesterday  were  the  only  good  days  they  have  had  here  for  a 
month.  This  continued  rain  they  say  is  phenomenal — and  such  is 
its  violence,  that  immense  damage  has  been  done,  especially  in  the 
Southern  portions  of  the  State.  This,  donbtless,  you  have  seen  in 
the  Papers.  A gentleman  told  me  it  is  the  worst  spell  since  the 
eventful  year  of  1849,  when  he  first  came  to  California. 

I,  however,  deemed  it  better  to  go  out,  in  spite  of  the  weather, 
and  see  about  my  State-room  on  the  Steamer.  I found  that  Major 
J.  Wickham  Leigh,  to  whom  I had  written,  you  remember,  had 
attended  to  my  request,  and  engaged  for  me,  the  Captain  said  yester- 
day, the  best  Room  on  the  Ship. 

The  downpour  was  such  that  I returned  to  the  Hotel  and  remained 
all  day.  The  calls  upon  me,  I am  sorry  to  say,  continue.  My  friend 
Captain  Johnston,  and  Chief  Engineer  Thomas  A.  Porter,  called, 
whom  I missed ; and  Dr.  St.  Leben,  the  Surgeon,  whom  I saw,  and 


52 


LETTER  NO.  5. 


invited  to  Breakfast  with  me  to-morrow.  Mr.  W.  C.  Howard,  of 
Norfolk,  called  a second  time,  whom  I missed  on  both  occasions; 
and  Judge  Thornton  came  to  my  Room  in  the  evening  and  sat 
several  hours,  and  we  talked  of  the  Old  State  and  her  people  as  only 
Virginians  can.  He  is  about  sixty-eight  years  of  age,  and  has  a 
lively  remembrance  of  the  people  whom  we  both  knew,  many  of 
whom,  alas  ! have  passed  away,  and  he  seemed  not  to  weary  of  talk- 
ing of  them.  He  leaves  the  Bench  soon.  Next  Spring  he  hopes  to 
go  back  to  Virginia  on  a short  visit.  I am  sorry  I will  not  probably 
have  returned  by  that  time;  I should  like  to  have  him  at  our  Home. 

In  the  running  through  the  Papers  Taylor  sends,  I looked  for  the 
Governor’s  Message,  but  I could  no  where  find  it.  Our  town  papers 
do  not  publish  it — the  Times  only  containing  a brief  synopsis.  I 
wished  to  see  his  views  and  recommendations  with  regard  to  the 
State  Debt.  But  maybe  it  is  as  well  for  me  not  to  see  it.  I have  no 
idea  that  it  contains  anything  of  value  towards  its  Settlement.  Our 
Friend,  from  his  attitude  and  utterances  hitherto  during  his  Term, 
will  be  powerless  to  effect  anything.  He  has  only  involved  us  in 
mistier  and  deeper  trouble — more  dangerous  to  our  Commonwealth 
and  her  reputation  than  the  wildest  schemes  of  the  Repudiators.  But 
for  this  attitude  he  would  have  had  a grand  opportunity.  For  him, 
all  that  is  lost,  and  he  leaves  us  without  chart  or  rudder.  The  little 
things  which  occupied  our  State  Government  for  the  last  four  years 
have  vanished  into  thin  air — and  there  stands  the  Gaunt  Figure  of  our 
Dishonored  Credit,  barring  the  way,  fiercer  and  more  hideous  than 
ever.  Oh  ! that  our  Public  men  had  the  ability,  and  the  courage 
to  lead  in  great  measures,  and  not  be  led  by  a shallow,  popular  senti- 
ment, instead  of  courageously  guiding  and  instructing  the  people  in 
high  questions  of  Policy  and  Principle  and  in  the  lofty  duties  of 
Citizenship  ! Will  his  successor  do  any  better  ? I trust  so.  I do 
not  know  whether  he  has  those  distinguishing  qualities  of  which  I 
speak.  But  I told  him,  you  remember,  at  the  time  he  was  in  Win- 
chester on  his  Canvass,  that  when  elected,  which  I hoped  sincerely 
he  would  be,  he  must  manfully  take  the  Question  in  hand,  and  not 
follow,  but  lead,  and  I was  sure  success  would  crown  his  efforts.  No 
better  time  would  ever  come.  The  people,  elevated  by  the  victory 
which  carried  him  into  office,  had  been  lifted  from  the  Slough  of 
Despond  into  which  the  Demagogues  and  shallow  politicians  had  cast 


SAN  FEANCISCO. 


53 


them,  and  were  ready  for  practicable,  sensible  and  honest  work.  He 
promised  to  remember  my  words.  Let  us  hope  that  he  may. 

San  Francisco,  California, 

Same  Hotel, 

Friday,  January  3,  1890. 

Another  blustery,  rainy  day,  intermingled  with  a pelting  storm  of 
hail.  I mention  the  weather  from  time  to  time  to  show  you  what 
the  ever-claimed  equable  climate  of  California  can  do,  when  it  has  a 
mind  to.  That  of  which  I speak  is  much  like  our  March  weather 
in  its  damp,  fickle,  disagreeable  character — though  no  snow  has  fallen 
yet,  only  hail  and  deluges  of  water.  A heavy  fall  of  it  will  come, 
and  the  whole  Sky  be  thickly  overcast — then  the  clouds  will  partially 
disperse  and  clear  patches  of  blue  appear — in  the  next  moment  to  be 
again  covered  with  clouds,  spouting  rain.  This  is  California  in  the 
Rainy  Season.  But  I enter  the  protest  of  all  who  live  here — that  it 
must  not  be  taken  as  a sample  of  it  ordinarily.  It  is  abnormal — from 
a Weather  Bureau — all  awry  for  some  unknown  cause  or  causes. 

My  Friend  Dr.  St.  Leben,  of  the  S.  S.  San  Bias,  breakfasted  with 
me  according  to  arrangement.  I sent  word  to  the  Captain  and  other 
Officers  they  must  come  and  take  a meal  with  me,  also,  whenever 
their  convenience  and  engagements  allowed. 

After  Breakfast,  notwithstanding  the  weather,  I went  out  with 
Judge  Thornton  for  a walk — to  try  to  buy  Trollope’s  “Australia,” 
which  I could  not  get  on  the  other  side  of  the  Continent ; nor  could 
I here : — to  go  to  the  Bank  and  inquire  for  more  mail — I got  a 
Letter  from  Taylor  of  December  26,  and  a package  of  Papers : — to 
go  to  the  Land  Office,  that  I might  see  Major  J.  W.  Leigh  and  thank 
him  for  his  courtesy  and  kindness  in  securing  me  a State-room  on 
the  Steamer  for  Auckland.  He  received  me  very  kindly,  and  my 
Letter  in  response,  recognizing  his  to  me  with  regard  to  the  matter, 
he  said  made  him  wince — for  it  was  so  written  as  to  express  more 
than  the  simple  words  implied — and  he  inferred,  that  his  did  not 
carry  such  willingness  to  comply  with  my  request  as  it  might.  I 
told  him,  to  be  honest,  such  was  my  inference,  and  I wrote  it,  bearing 
much  between  the  lines,  that  it  might  be  read  exactly  with  the  same 
spirit  that  he  had  complied  with  my  request.  Oh  ! he  said  that  was 
good ; he  had  read  the  unwritten  words  between  the  lines,  and  felt 


54 


LETTER  NO.  5. 


that  if  he  was  curt  he  deserved  the  elegant  but  keen  rebuke ; but  he 
assured  me  it  gave  him  the  greatest  pleasure  to  attend  to  my  wishes 
and  hoped  he  had  done  everything  I wanted.  I told  him  everything 
— and  as  the  words  between  the  lines  were  not  written,  they  could 
summarily  be  dismissed  as  interlopers.  You  remember,  I did  not 
know  Major  Leigh.  He  is  a son  of  our  great  Benjamin  Watkins 
Leigh,  and  a gentleman  every  way.  When  I wrote  to  him,  I enclosed 
a Letter  of  Introduction  from  Bob  Hunter. 

We  then  had  a good  old  Virginia  talk — one  of  the  olden  time — 
and  I found  him  a nice  gentleman — and  agreeable,  like  such  men  are 
wont  to  be.  He  tendered  me  many  attentions  and  civilities. 

Not  being  able  to  buy  the  Book,  Judge  Thornton  took  me  to  the 
Mechanics’  Institute  Library,  and  introduced  me  to  Mr.  Horace  Nil- 
son,  the  Librarian.  He  said  the  Book  was  in  the  Collection,  and  got 
it  for  me,  and  gave  me  a Privilege  Ticket,  which  will  admit  me  to 
the  Rooms  at  all  hours.  But  he  said  he  would  take  the  responsibility 
of  lending  me  the  Book ; I might  find  it  more  convenient  to  read  it 
at  the  Hotel.  This  was  very  kind. 

Then  the  Judge  took  me  to  a French  Restaurant,  and  we  Lunched 
on  Canvass  Back  Duck,  which  he  had  previously  oi’dered — a good 
and  juicy  meal,  I would  say,  were  I an  Epicure.  These  doings, 
together  with  visiting  Colonel  Andrews’  elegant  Jewelry  Store,  con- 
sumed most  of  the  day,  which  we  accomplished  by  dodging  now  and 
then  from  the  pelting  rain  and  hail,  under  awnings  and  into  stores, 
most  agreeable  of  all,  into  the  Market,  where  I saw  a collection  of 
California’s  products,  equal  in  variety  and  quality  to  any  I ever  saw 
in  any  part  of  the  World.  Surely,  it  was  a blessed  day  for  her  people 
when  this  great  State  stepped  from  the  absorbing  pursuit  of  Mineral 
Wealth  into  the  cultivation  of  her  Soil  ! 

In  the  afternoon,  Mr.  Winfield  S.  Jones — Julian’s  Uncle — called 
to  see  me  and  sat  some  time.  He  is  a nice  fellow  and  tendered  me 
his  services  and  hospitalities  in  any  way  most  agreeable  to  myself. 
I told  him  my  rule  as  to  accepting  hospitality  on  Travel.  He  said 
he  trusted  I would  break  it  in  his  behalf.  He  offered  to  take  me 
to  the  Theatre.  Declining  this,  he  said  I surely  would  not  decline 
his  escort  to  Church  on  Sunday — that  he  would  call  for  me  in  the 
morning.  Later  in  the  day  he  wrote  me  a most  urgent  and  cordial 
invitation,  and  sent  it  by  his  nephew,  W.  Brooks  Jones,  to  go  home  with 
him  after  Church  and  meet  some  friends.  This  I could  not  decline. 


SAN  FEANCISCO. 


55 


After  Dinner,  Judge  Thornton  called  for  me  at  my  Room  and  took 
me  to  his  own  apartments  in  this  Hotel,  where  I met  Mrs.  Thornton 
and  their  Son — Mrs,  Thornton  was  a Miss  Thornton  of  Alabama,  and 
a niece  of  John  J.  Crittenden,  of  Kentucky,  her  mother  being  his  sister. 
She  is  a Typical  Southern  women,  not  yet  reconstructed — full  of  vitality, 
intelligence,  and  enthusiasm.  You  may  be  sure  we  had  a good  time, 
till  ten  o’clock,  in  gathering  up  memories  of  people  and  events  in 
which  we  have  a common  heritage.  She  knew  all  about  our  old 
town  during  the  War  and  how  her  sex  had  filled  it  with  a History 
brighter  than  the  mere  conflict  of  arms  of  their  husbands,  sons  and 
brothers.  When  Southern  people  of  common  faith,  who  have  lived 
through  and  survived  the  War,  get  together  in  a distant  Country, 
though  they  have  never  met  before,  how  they  can  fill  the  air  with 
light  as  from  an  Oriflamme,  and  speed  the  hours  ! I haven’t  time 
to  tell  you  what  we  talked  about : you  know,  or  can  infer,  without 
my  telling ; for,  however  diverse  the  subjects,  there  is  and  can  be 
with  us  only  one  common  theme. 

To  Taylor:  Your  Letter  makes  me  feel  very  comfortable — all 
seems  to  be  going  well  at  the  Old  Home  and  in  Charlestown.  I 
note  what  you  say  about  Rogers  selling  the  Pork,  and  Fred  Strother 
fixing  the  Road.  I think  you  are  right  about  my  Book  of  Letters 
of  Travel  A.  S.  borrowed;  he  has  had  it  since  last  May;  others  want 
it,  and  it  might  be  lost,  or  fall  into  the  hands  of  persons  who  may 
steal  it.  I think,  too,  you  are  right  not  to  run  more  than  two  of 
each.  You  ought  to  have  given  the  Second  Tour  to  D.  L.  instead 
of  J.  S.  You  know  D.  has  been  waiting  anxiously  for  it  for  a long 
time.  J.  will  not  read  it  with  the  same  avidity — if  at  all.  Don’t 
forget  D. 

San  Francisco,  Same  Hotel, 

Saturday,  January  4,  1890. 

Another  day  like  yesterday — raining,  blustery  at  intervals,  the 
whole  time,  and  most  Marchy  and  unpleasant.  But  it  did  not  deter 
me  from  walking  to  the  Lauding  of  the  Oceanic  S.  S.  Company  and 
looking  at  my  Room  on  the  Alameda,  which  steams  out  on  next 
Saturday — the  eleventh — for  Auckland.  I found  Captain  Morse  on 
the  Wharf ; he  went  aboard  with  me  and  showed  me  every  courtesy. 
I shall  be  very  comfortably  fixed  for  my  long  voyage,  and  I think 
Morse,  from  his  outgivings,  will  help  to  make  it  enjoyable.  In 


56 


LETTER  NO.  5. 


walking  to  and  fro,  I had  now  and  then  to  get  under  awnings  and 
sheds,  and  in  stores,  to  escape  from  the  driving  rain,  which,  notwith- 
standing my  umbrella,  would  have  drenched  me  thoroughly. 

I stopped  in  a Shoemaker’s  little  shop  to  have  my  shoe  righted  up, 
and  whilst  he  was  at  work  we  had  a talk — which  was  by  no  means 
uninteresting,  and  if  I had  time  I would  detail  some  of  it.  He  is 
from  Ohio,  was  on  the  Northern  side  in  the  War,  and  a sensible 
fellow. 

In  the  afternoon  the  weather  kept  me  in,  and  I devoted  the  time 
to  writing  a portion  of  this  Letter,  and  reading  the  two  papers  you 
sent — one  the  Winchester  News  and  the  other  the  Richmond  Despatch, 
I recall  nothing  that,  it  appears  to  me,  needs  comment. 

In  the  evening,  my  San  Bias  German  Friend,  Mr.  Gericke,  and  I 
went  to  the  Baldwin  Theatre  to  see  the  “Queen’s  Mate” — a spec- 
tacular Comic  Opera — not  bad,  or  badly  gotten  up,  but  too  long,  and 
I tired  before  eleven  o’clock,  when  the  Curtain  fell.  I soon  found 
bed  a more  comfortable  place  than  a seat  in  the  Orchestra,  before  the 
garish  footlights  and  tinsel  of  the  Stage. 

I will  close  this  now,  and  put  it  on  the  wing  over  the  Mountains. 
It  will  be  delayed,  I fear;  for  the  way,  they  tell  me,  is  blocked  with 
snow  in  the  Sierra  Nevadas.  But  the  sooner  it  starts,  the  sooner  you 
will  receive  it. 

I will  write  again  before  I leave.  Continue  to  address  your  Letters 
to  Care  of  “ Bank  of  New  Zealand,  Auckland,  New  Zealand,"  till 
further  orders.  As  at  present  advised  I will  keep  that  as  my  general 
Receiving  Office,  and  let  them  be  distributed  or  forwarded  thence. 
I do  not  know  any  surer  or  safer  way  of  getting  them. 

With  tenderest  love  for  all, 

F. 

P.  S. — I may  send  you  by  Express  some  Books  and  other  things 
I want  to  get  rid  of — too  much  or  too  little  to  carry  around  the 
World.  That  was  near  being  a disastrous  Fire  at  the  Episcopal 
Church.  Doubtless  greater  damage  was  done  by  the  Water  than 
the  Fire,  in  the  Engine  Boys’  enthusiasm. 


SAN  FRANCISCO. 


57 


[No.  6.] 


My  Dear  Mary, — 


Saj:  Francisco,  Occidental,  Hotel, 

Sunday,  January  5,  1890. 


Yesterday  I finished  No.  5 to  your  Mother,  and  mailed  it  to  your 
Uncle  Taylor.  May  it  have  a safe  and  swift  journey  ! 

To-day  the  bad  weather  was  broken  : and  a clear  Sky  hung  over 
us,  much  to  the  delight  of  the  people  of  San  Francisco.  Young  Mr. 
Jones  came  according  to  appointment  and  escorted  me  to  Church — 
where  I heard  Rev.  Mr.  Fout,  whom  they  regard  as  a fine  preacher. 
I cannot  say  he  thus  impressed  me.  The  Sermon  was  upon  the 
year  just  gone,  and  its  pleasant  and  gloomy  events  and  memories — a 
sentimental  Discourse — containing  altogether  too  much  both  of  the 
^‘lively  and  severe” — not  enough  of  thought  to  give  framework  to  the 
foliage  and  flowers — which,  in  such  case,  always  lapses  from  intended 
fragrance  into  weariness,  and  instead  of  interesting,  palls.  His  voice 
was  enough  to  have  marred  the  Sermon,  even  had  it  been  perfect — 
bolting  out  his  sentences,  and  fragments  of  sentences,  not  unlike  the 
popping  of  a bundle  of  Jackson  Crackers.  He  has  doubtless  some- 
thing in  him,  but  he  didn’t  let  it  out  to-day. 

After  Church  we  walked  to  Mr.  Jones’ — who  came  out  of  his 
house  and  met  me  on  the  Street,  some  distance  away,  and  gave  me 
a most  hospitable  greeting.  His  house  is  small,  but  beautifully 
and  tastefully  furnished  and  adorned  with  works  of  Art — Pictures, 
Bronzes,  and  Bric-a-brac.  He  is  a Bachelor;  he  and  his  nephew 
occupying  the  mansion  alone. 

Soon  the  other  guests  arrived  : — Mr.  and  Mrs.  Tevis,  Colonel  and. 
Mrs.  Coleman,  and  Mrs.  Coit.  Mr.  Tevis  is  a Millionaire — ten  or 
twelve  times  repeated.  He  is  a Kentuckian — been  here  many  years — 
part  owner  of  the  famous  Anaconda  Copper  Mine  near  Boies  City  in 
Idaho,  and  other  valuable  ore  deposits.  His  wife  was  a Miss  Saun- 
ders, also  from  Kentucky.  Mrs.  Coit  was  a Miss  Hotchkiss,  now  a 
widow — smart  and  pleasant — a relation,  she  tells  me,  of  the  Hunter’s 
— recently  visited  R.  M.  T.  Hunter’s  family  in  Essex.  Colonel 
Coleman  married  Miss  Gwin, — Senator  Gwin’s  Daughter,  before 
the  War  U.  S.  Senator  from  Mississippi,  who  died  recently  in  New 


58 


LETTER  NO.  6. 


York.  Coleman,  you  remember,  I met  out  here  on  my  First  Tour, 
and  received  many  civilities  from  him  then.  The  Lunch  was  hand- 
some and  handsomely  served,  and  several  hours  sped  pleasantly. 

After  Lunch,  Mr.  Jones  said  he  had  told  Mrs.  and  Miss  Flood 
that  he  was  going  to  bring  me  to  call  on  them.  They  expressed 
much  gratification,  and  said  they  would  be  glad  to  see  me  ; and  Mr. 
Jones  proposed  we  should  go.  They  are  in  mourning.  Mr.  Flood, 
one  of  the  wealthiest  men  on  the  Pacific  Coast,  died  at  Heidelberg 
rather  more  than  a year  ago.  His  Widow  and  Daughter  occupy  a 
splendid  mansion  on  Nob-Hill — the  finest  and  most  sumptuous  in 
its  appointments  and  furniture  of  all  the  mansions  in  that  sumptuous 
locality.  It  is  said  that  this  young  Lady  has  been  courted  by  any 
number  of  Lords  and  titled  gentry,  and  has  had  the  good  sense  to 
discard  them  all — a discretion  well  worthy  of  imitation  by  not  a few 
of  her  cotemporaries. 

We  called  about  three  o’clock,  and  were  received  by  Miss  Flood 
in  an  easy,  simple,  and  cordial  manner.  She  is,  I should  think,  not 
much  less  than  thirty — good  looking  and  sensible,  talks  pleasantly 
and  well.  Before  leaving,  at  Mr.  Jones’  request,  she  showed  us 
through  the  house — well  worth  seeing.  It  is  very  large,  built  of 
Red  Sandstone — brought  from  Connecticut — the  same  style  of  that 
which  adorns  Fifth  Avenue.  It  is  finished  in  various  kinds  of  hard 
wood,  most  elaborately  carved,  and  furnished  regardless  of  cost,  yet 
without  the  slightest  glare  or  glitter,  all  in  quiet  and  elegant  tone, 
and  ornamented  with  fine  Paintings,  Bronzes,  and  the  like.  She 
showed  us  through  every  Room,  and  in  our  progress  we  came  to 
Mrs.  Flood’s,  who  was  not  well  enough  to  go  down  stairs  but  who 
received  us  most  kindly — a good  looking  old  Lady,  evidently  good  as 
she  looks.  Standing  on  the  highest  point  of  Nob-Hill,  the  outlook 
from  the  windows  all  around  is  beautiful  exceedingly,  commanding 
the  whole  circuit  of  the  City  and  Harbor  and  shipping  and  across  to 
Berkeley,  Oakland,  and  Alameda — backed  by  Mountains,  now  white 
with  snow.  When  here  before  I was  on  this  elevation,  and  enjoyed 
the  magnificent  scene.  But  this  afternoon,  with  the  vantage  ground 
of  the  high  windows,  the  sunlight,  and  the  snow,  I never  saw  it 
glowing  with  such  uncommon  splendor.  This,  I think,  is  the  finest 
private  residence  I ever  saw — rendered  more  interesting  by  reason  of 
'its  freedom  from  pretension,  and  its  homelike  quiet  and  comfort. 
But  these  sumptuous  and  costly  affairs  do  not  at  all  excite  my  envy  ; 


SAN  FRANCISCO. 


59 


any  more  than  Windsor  Castle  did,  when,  you  remember,  in  answer 
to  my  interrogatory,  the  Housekeeper,  who  was  conducting  me 
through,  said  they  were  not  by  any  means  a guard  against  or  solace 
to  Royal  annoyance  or  sorrow ; or  than  old  Sam  Johnson,  just  out 
of  his  dingy  Garret,  did  the  beautiful  Home  of  his  young  friend  and 
protege,  David  Garrick,  in  the  flush  of  his  fame  and  prosperity.  It 
is  much  more  pleasant  to  enjoy  them,  whilst  others  have  the  care  of 
their  building,  adornment,  and  preservation. 

Miss  Flood  conducted  us  to  the  front  door  and  out  upon  the 
portico,  and  bade  us  good  evening  in  the  simplest  and  most  graceful 
manner.  I mention  her  and  her  Mother  thus  particularly,  because, 
whilst  she  is  highly  educated,  her  Mother  and  Father  began  their 
lives  in  the  humblest  walk  of  life — keeping  a small  store  in  this 
City — and  her  Father  carved  out  his  own  fortune.  Now  she  excites 
the  admiration  of  those  who  have  always  known  her,  by  her  excellent 
manners,  and  unpretentious  goodness  and  kindness  of  heart  to  all. 

Mr.  Jones  and  I wandered  about  for  awhile  over  the  Hill,  enjoying 
the  Scene.  In  the  vicinity  are  five  other  famous  residences — Mrs. 
Hopkins’,  Senator  Stanford’s,  Mr.  Crocker’s  and  his  Son’s,  and  Mr. 
Colton’s.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Crocker  are  dead,  and  Mrs.  Hopkins  is 
married  and  gone  East,  and  their  houses  are  closed.  I then  returned, 
walking,  to  the  Hotel. 

After  Dinner,  my  old  travelling  companion  in  Scandinavia,  Mr. 
J.  H.  Langtry,  you  remember,  called  to  see  me  and  sat  an  hour  or 
two,  and  we  reviewed  the  experiences  of  our  Travel.  He  is  still 
with  the  Wells,  Fargo  & Co.  Express  Company,  and  says  he  hopes 
soon  to  leave  business,  and,  being  a Bachelor,  spend  the  residue  of  his 
Life  in  Travel.  I told  him  this  would  not  do]  he  would  soon  weary 
of  it.  He  ought  to  have  some  place  he  can  call  Home — to  which 
he  could  return  and  gather  up  the  fruits  of  his  Travel  experiences ; 
otherwise,  it  would  be  only  Vagabondage. 

Whilst  he  was  in  my  Room,  Judge  Thornton  came  to  take  me 
to  his ; where  I had  promised  to  spend  a while  this  Evening  with 
him  and  Mrs.  Thornton,  and  where  I went  when  Mr.  Langtry 
left.  The  time  passed  rapidly  and  pleasantly,  whilst  we  discussed 
things  and  people  hereabouts  of  whom  I knew  nothing,  and  things 
and  people  in  old  Virginia  of  which  and  whom  we  all  knew  much ; 
that  brought  us  close  together.  The  Judge  to-day  introduced  me  to 
a Mr.  Madden  of  Fairfax  County,  Virginia,  who  has  been  out  here 


60 


LETTER  NO.  6. 


many  years,  and  who,  the  Judge  says,  has  been  a successful  man  of 
business.  Charles  may  know  something  about  the  name. 

Same  City  and  Hotel, 

Monday,  January  6,  1890. 

To-day  I crossed  the  Ferry  and  took  train  to  Berkeley,  to  see 
Commodore  and  Mrs.  Jefferson  Mauiy,  who  now  reside  there.  You 
remember,  I met  them  in  Hong-Kong  on  my  Fourth  Tour,  and  how 
attentive  and  polite  they  were.  They  called  to  see  me  at  the  Palace 
Hotel  on  my  arrival  in  this  City  returning  from  that  Tour ; they 
having  preceded  me  a few  weeks,  whilst  I was  visiting  China  and 
Japan.  On  my  reaching  Home,  I wrote  them  a letter  of  recognition, 
and  addressed  it  to  Oakland,  which  was  returned  to  me  undelivered. 
I learned  here  they  are  living  in  Berkeley  and  not  in  Oakland,  and 
I determined  to  run  across  and  see  them,  and  deliver  in  person  the 
Letter  which  had  been  returned  and  which  I had  brought  along  with 
me.  I did  so  this  morning.  Crossing  the  Fei'ry  from  the  foot  of 
Market  Street,  I took  train  on  the  other  side  of  the  Bay  and  went 
to  Berkeley,  the  extreme  West  end  and  the  terminus  of  the  run. 
These  three  Cities,  beginning  on  the  West,  Berkeley,  Oakland,  and 
Alameda,  run  along  the  Shore  of  the  Bay,  and  seem,  in  the  distance, 
from  the  heights  of  San  Francisco,  to  be  in  effect  one.  You  remem- 
ber, when  here  before  I visited  the  University  in  Berkeley  and  gave 
you  some  general  account  of  the  places.  I will  not  repeat. 

Leaving  the  train  at  the  Station,  I walked  to  Commodore  Maury’s, 
a few  hundred  yards  away.  He  lives  in  a nice  Cottage,  embowered 
in  foliage  and  surrounded  by  an  ornamented  yard.  Unhappily,  on 
inquiry  of  a Chinese  servant,  who  came  to  the  door,  both  he  and 
Mrs.  Maury  were  absent.  I left  the  letter  of  which  I have  spoken, 
together  with  a note  to  them,  giving  expression  to  my  regrets  at 
not  seeing  them,  and  saying,  I was  sure  they  would  agree,  that  I 
was  the  Champion  Letter  Carrier  of  the  Continent,  and  the  Govern- 
ment ought  to  I’ecognize  my  merits  by  appointing  me  to  some  high 
and  responsible  Office,  that  requires  a good  deal  of  running  around. 

When  I left,  on  the  next  train, — an  hour  after  my  arrival — the 
weather  began  to  come  down.  In  the  morning,  the  day  promised 
to  be  a repetition  of  yesterday.  But  the  rain  had  not  done,  and  the 
clouds  spread  themselves,  and  together  with  the  smoke  of  the  City, 


SAN  FRANCISCO. 


61 


and  the  mist  and  rain,  obscured  the  lovely  scene  of  which  I told  you 
Sunday,  under  different  auspices. 

Notwithstanding  this  condition  of  things,  having  my  umbrella 
with  me,  I preferred  to  walk  from  the  Ferry  to  the  Hotel.  This 
ended  anything  of  interest  worth  writing  here. 

During  my  absence.  Colonel  Evan  J.  Coleman  called  to  see  me — 
the  gentleman  with  whom  I dined  on  Sunday  at  Mr.  Jones’.  He 
left  for  me  a card,  giving  me  the  privileges  of  the  Pacific  Union 
Club. 

Same  City  akd  Hotel, 

Tuesday,  January  7,  1890. 

To-day  has  been  bright  and  sunshiny. 

This  morning,  I called  on  Mr.  Winfield  S.  Jones  at  his  jjlace  of 
business — 228  Montgomery  Street — not  far  from  this  Hotel.  He 
is  President  of  a Bank.  I found  him  in ; he  invited  me  into  his 
private  Office  and  I had  a pleasant  talk  with  him,  as  long  as  I 
thought  it  proper  to  intrude  upon  his  working  hours.  I told  him 
I was  on  my  way  to  the  Bank  of  California ; he  said  he  would 
accompany  me  and  introduce  me  to  the  Officers ; which  he  did.  He 
showed  me  the  Bank  Apartments,  and  got  one  of  the  Officers  to 
produce  some  of  their  bricks  of  the  Precious  Metals — one  of  Gold, 
woi’th  nearly  seven  thousand  dollars — about  the  size  of  one  of  our 
Winchester  building  bricks. 

On  inquiry  for  Letters,  one  was  given  to  me  from  your  Mother, 
dated  29  December,  1889.  I drew,  also,  some  money  to  purchase 
my  Ticket  to  Auckland. 

Returning,  Mr.  Jones  took  me  to  the  Stock  Exchange ; but  the 
hour  had  passed,  and  the  Board  had  adjourned.  I think  I will  stop 
in  to-morrow  and  see  what  manner  of  looking  men  they  be  who  there 
resort. 

Mr.  Jones  invited  me  to  dine  at  his  house  with  the  Rev.  Mr.  Eout 
and  Wife  on  Friday  next.  He  is  certainly  very  hospitable  and  kind, 
and  seems  really  most  anxious  to  show  me  every  attention  in  his 
power.  I declined ; but  he  appeared  so  desirous  of  having  me  meet 
his  Pastor,  who,  he  said,  he  was  sure,  would  be  equally  gratified, 
that  I at  last  told  him  I would  let  him  know  on  Thursday,  if  I 
found  I could  accept. 


62 


LETTER  NO.  6. 


On  my  walk  back  to  the  Hotel,  I met  Commodore  Maury,  who 
had  just  been  to  call  on  me,  and  had  left  with  his  card  a Letter  from 
Mrs,  Maury.  It  was  near  midday,  and  I invited  him  to  go  back 
with  me  and  Lunch.  Just  at  the  moment.  Judge  Thornton  came 
up,  and  I invited  him  to  join  us  at  an  hour  fixed — all  of  which  was 
agreed  to.  In  the  meantime,  the  Commodore  went  with  me  to  Cook’s 
and  other  Intelligence  OflSces,  to  get  information  with  regard  to  the 
Steamer  Lines  from  Australia  to  the  Cape  Colonies.  After  which 
we  met  and  Lunched  together,  talking  the  while  upon  subjects  of 
interest — in  a manner  peculiar  to  old  Virginians,  and  in  which  they 
never,  any  more  than  Old  Vii’ginia,  seem  to  tire. 

I read  Mrs.  Maury’s  note — I enclose  it  that  you  may  see  what  a 
nice  one  it  is — inviting  me  to  dine  with  them.  This  I declined.  The 
Commodore  said  it  would  be  a great  disappointment  to  her ; and  he 
hoped  I would  I’econsider.  I told  him,  if  I did  change  my  mind,  I 
would  telegraph  him  the  day  before.  We  strolled  through  Market, 
Kearney  and  other  of  the  chief  Streets,  looking  at  the  people,  many 
of  whom  were  out  enjoying  the  Sunshine — among  them  not  a few 
pretty  women — and  when  we  parted,  he  to  return  to  Berkeley,  I 
continued  my  stroll  for  an  hour  or  two. 

In  the  afternoon.  Captain  J.  C.  Watson,  of  the  United  States 
Navy,  and  Major  John  Wickham  Leigh  called  to  see  me.  I was 
in,  and  we  had  a long  conversation.  Captain  Watson  is  a Ken- 
tuckian, and  married  a Daughter  of  Judge  Thornton.  They  were 
both  apparently  much  interested  in  my  Travel-talk,  which  subject 
they  introduced.  My  efforts  to  be  incog,  have  not  at  all  succeeded, 
and  if  I stay  here  many  days  I will  be  found  out  generally,  and  be 
flooded  with  attentions.  Already  you  see  how  they  are  coming — 
unwilling  though  I be — saying  all  the  time,  that  I do  not  accept 
hospitalities  when  I travel.  What  does  that  resolution  have  to  do 
with  the  kind  and  hospitable  people  of  the  Pacific  Coast  ? 

I forgot  to  say,  that  I went  with  Mr.  Jones  to  another  Market  and 
to  an  Exhibition  of  the  Products  of  Placer  County,  in  this  State, — 
and  was  still  further  confirmed  in  the  estimate  I had  formed  of  the 
great  range  in  the  value,  variety,  and  volume  of  the  productions  of 
California. 

To  Margaret:  When  I could  get  a free  moment  I read  your  wel- 
come Letter — newsy  and  interesting — the  last  from  you,  doubtless, 
I shall  receive  whilst  on  the  Continent ; the  next  will  greet  me  in 


SAN  FRANCISCO— SUTRO  PARK. 


63 


New  Zealand — where  you  must  all  continue  to  write  till  further 
orders.  I shall  make  Auckland,  Care  the  Bank  of  New  Zealand,  my 
general  receiving  and  distributing  Office  for  the  present — maybe  for 
some  time — being  uncertain  with  regard  to  my  specific  movements 
till  I reach  there,  I am  glad  things  are  getting  on  well  with  you 
and  in  Winchester.  I am  delighted  to  hear  that  Cousin  William 
Smith  has  been  benefited  by  the  operation  on  his  eyes — I hope  it 
will  equally  benefit  his  general  health. 

At  night,  Mr,  Gerick6  and  I went  to  the  Ward  Theatre,  and  saw 
a Variety  Exhibition  of  singing,  dancing,  low  comedy  and  the  like, 
that  amused  and  made  me  laugh — which,  except  fine  Actors,  is  the 
best  I ever  ask  from  the  average  Theatre. 

Same  City  and  Hotel, 

Wednesday,  January  8,  1890. 

Another  beautiful  day,  devoted,  in  company  with  Judge  Thorn- 
ton, to  visiting  the  Cliff  House  and  Sutro  Park. 

After  going  with  me  to  return  the  Book  I borrowed  from  the 
Librarian  of  the  Mechanics’  Institute,  we  mounted  one  of  the  Cable 
Cars,  and,  with  one  change  of  the  Cable  and  one  of  the  Dummy 
Steam,  all  effected  with  perfect  ease,  their  termini  being  in  close 
proximity  to  each  other,  we  landed  near  the  entrance  of  Sutro  Park. 
The  Judge  knew  Adolph  Sutro  very  well,  having  been  his  personal 
Friend  and  Lawyer  for  many  years,  and  we  called  first  upon  him: 
but  were  informed  by  the  Servant  that  he  was  in  the  City,  where  he 
would  probably  remain  till  Saturday. 

We  then  walked  over  the  Park,  which  Mr.  Sutro  has  generously 
thrown  open  to  the  Public.  It  occupies  what  was  once  a barren  Sand 
Dune,  of  considerable  elevation,  now  by  cultivation  converted  into 
Grounds  of  great  taste  and  beauty,  adorned  with  Trees,  Flowers, 
and  Statuary — kept  in  perfect  order — well-graded  walks  and  drives 
leading  everywhere.  Sutro  is  the  designer  of  the  celebrated  Sutro 
Tunnel,  and  now  one  of  the  wealthiest  men  of  the  Pacific  Coast. 
He  was  born  at  Aix-la-Chapelle,  and  his  fortune  is  of  his  own 
making. 

Wandering  around  and  through  it  to  our  satisfaction,  we  descended 
to  the  Cliff  House — situated  on  a Rocky  bluff  overlooking  the 
water — and  sat  on  the  Portico,  enjoying  the  Sunlight  and  the  Sea, 


64 


LETTER  NO.  6. 


each  beautifying  the  other — and  watching  the  Seals  as  they  swam 
around,  and  climbed  up  the  Rocks,  a short  distance  from  us,  or 
tumbled  up  and  down  and  over  each  other  in  their  sport,  the  while 
bellowing  and  grunting  hoarsely.  It  is  an  interesting  sight — for 
there  are  many  hundreds — no  one  being  allowed  to  kill  or  dis- 
turb them.  There  is  complaint  that  they  are  very  voracious,  and 
destroy  many  fish ; but  their  picturesque  inutility  has  hitherto 
triumphed  — the  Seals  themselves  of  no  value  for  their  fur,  it 
being  worthless. 

I met  with  several  gentlemen  there  from  the  State  of  Wash- 
ington, who  gave  me  glowing  accounts  of  the  present  condition 
and  promise  of  Seattle  and  Spokane  Falls — the  anticipations  of  its 
friends  of  1882  in  the  former,  when  I was  there,  having  been 
fulfilled,  thus  far. 

The  Judge  and  I then  took  Lunch  at  the  Cliff  House — and  a very 
good  one — and  rested  a while  thereafter,  enjoying  the  delightful  air 
and  outlook.  On  our  way  back  to  the  Railroad,  walking,  we  met 
Mr.  Sutro.  He  gave  us  both  a cordial  greeting,  upon  introduction 
to  me  by  Judge  Thornton,  and  insisted  upon  our  going  to  the  House. 
It  being  still  early,  we  agreed.  The  House  is  nothing  extraordinary: 
of  frame,  and  one  story — but  is  tastefully  and  well  furnished,  with 
Books  and  Ornaments  and  Curios.  The  site  is  most  commanding — 
visible  far  off  at  Sea — and  from  it  a view  of  the  Cliff  House  just 
below,  of  the  Seal  Rocks,  of  the  Golden  Gate  entrance  to  the  Harbor, 
and  the  Farrallone  Islands,  I'ising  in  to-day’s  clear  atmosphere  out  of 
the  bosom  of  the  unbounded  Ocean — rolling  towards  us  and  dashing 
its  waves  in  white  surf  along  the  Southern  Shore — a vision  worth 
the  seeing — and  we  sat  at  the  window,  and  for  a good  while,  sipping 
refreshment,  and  talking,  enjoyed  it. 

When  the  time  for  our  departure  came,  Mr.  Sutro  ordered  his  open 
Carriage  and  span  of  Trotters  he  bought  from  Senator  Stanford,  at 
some  fabulous  price, — the  brothers  of  the  one  he  lately  sold  to  Bon- 
ner, of  Electioneer  Stock — Taylor  well  knows — and  drove  us  back 
to  the  City.  A spanking  pair  they  were,  as  they  sped  over  the  broad, 
hard  road  through  the  Golden  Gate  Park — but  not  finer  than  Carter 
and  Shawnee,  maybe  than  Carter  and  Briggs  now  are,  nor  gayer  in 
their  bouncing  gait.  I wished  Taylor  could  have  held  the  Ribbons 
and  tried  them. 


SAN  FRANCISCO. 


65 


I found  at  my  Room  a card  from  Mr.  Eugene  S.  Tod,  son  of  my 
fellow-passenger,  Mr.  Tod,  on  the  San  Bias. 

Same  City  and  Hotel, 

Thursday,  January  9,  1890. 

This  morning,  I walked  to  the  Office  of  the  S.  S.  Company  and 
paid  for  my  Room. 

On  my  return.  Judge  Thornton  and  I went  to  visit  the  Stock 
Exchange.  On  our  way,  I stopped  in  the  Security  and  Savings 
Bank,  to  tell  my  friend  Mr.  Jones  I could  not  dine  with  him 
to-morrow.  The  Exchange  had  adjourned,  and  we  were  compelled 
to  postpone  the  sight. 

Mr.  Sutro  had  given  us  a card  of  admission  to  the  Library  he  is 
collecting,  which  he  proposes  to  present  to  the  City.  He  talked  with 
us  a good  deal  about  it.  He  has  been  gathering  it  for  many  years 
here  and  abroad,  and  it  already  numbers  more  than  two  hundred 
thousand  volumes — many  of  them  very  rare — and  some  valuable 
manuscripts.  He  wants  to  locate  the  Building  in  Golden  Gate 
Park — now  readily  accessible  by  Steam  and  Cable  Cars,  and  getting 
year  by  year,  under  the  City’s  growth,  nearer  to  its  centre.  He 
thinks,  too,  it  will  be  much  safer  from  fire.  He  is  troubled  about 
the  form  of  the  Donation  ; he  wants  to  preserve  it  from  the  poli- 
ticians’ touch  and  taint,  and  desires  the  Trustees  to  be  a self-perpetu- 
ating body,  absolutely  independent  of  political  parties. 

We  found  some  of  them  on  shelves,  stored  in  the  second  story  of 
a large  Building  on  Battery  Street,  107  ; some  were  boxed  up  and 
preserved  elsewhere.  He  has  certainly  collected  a number  of  most 
interesting  and  valuable  volumes;  and  his  Donation  to  the  City, 
when  made,  will  be  a magnificent  benefaction.  I wish  I had  time 
to  mention  a few  of  the  Books  the  Custodian  showed  me,  of  especial 
value  and  interest. 

Whilst  rummaging  around,  we  came  across  a gentleman  of  similar 
tastes — with  whom  I engaged  in  conversation.  He  said  he  was  an 
Englishman,  had  been  living  in  California  seven  or  eight  years,  had 
formerly  lived  in  New  Zealand.  Our  talk  seemed  to  excite  his 
interest  in  and  draw  him  towards  me;  and  he  being  a Student  of 
Philology,  and  finding  I knew  something  about  it,  he  imagined  I 
knew  more  than  I did,  and  like  Li  Hung  Chang,  the  Viceroy  of 
5 


66 


LETTER  NO.  6. 


China,  gave  me  credit  for  much  more  learning  than  I possessed.  He 
said  he  knew  Sir  George  Gray,  one  of  England’s  most  eminent  men, 
now  living  on  one  of  the  Islands  not  far  from  Auckland,  where  he 
has  built  himself  a lovely  home,  filled  with  Art  and  Culture ; and 
their  close  and  friendly  relations  justified  him  in  giving  me  a Letter 
of  Introduction — which  he  did,  couched  in  most  complimentary  terms. 
Judge  Thornton  told  him  who  I was ; our  conversation,  I suppose, 
led  him  to  infer  that  I could  talk  in  such  a manner  as  would  not  be 
altogether  void  of  interest  to  a man  of  Sir  George’s  tastes  and  acquire- 
ments. Anyway,  he  gave  me  the  Letter,  which  I shall  determine  to 
use  or  not,  hereafter.  His  name,  from  the  card  he  presented,  is 
J.  W.  Treadwell. 

I then  called  at  the  Office  of  Colonel  Evan  J.  Coleman — but  he 
was  not  in. 

After  Lunch,  the  Judge  and  I took  a Cable  Car  and  went  out 
to  visit  the  Golden  Gate  Park  and  Cemeteries.  I have  told  you 
something  about  these  on  my  First  Tour.  They  have  very  much 
improved  since  then,  especially  the  former.  It  is  really  a wonder 
how  the  barren  Sand  Dunes  have  been  converted  into  scenes  of 
beauty — clothed  with  rich  grass  and  luxuriant  vegetation.  Since  I 
was  here,  a Monument  has  been  erected  to  Garfield — a poor  affair — 
standing  upon  a Pedestal  with  folded  arms : — of  General  Halleck, 
rather  better : — of  Francis  S.  Key,  sitting  meditatively  in  Bronze, 
under  a stone  Canopy,  guarded  by  defiant  Eagles,  and  surmounted 
by  the  Genius  of  Liberty.  The  stone  is  badly  selected  and  friable. 
The  figure  of  Key  is  very  fine,  and  the  Eagles.  On  the  Pedestal  is 
inscribed  the  Star  Spangled  Banner.  The  whole  a handsome  Tribute 
given  by  the  late  Millionaire,  James  Lick.  In  the  Cemetery,  I 
admired  the  Monument  of  Latham,  once  Senator,  to  his  Wife;  and 
that  erected  by  friends  and  admirers  to  Senator  Broderick,  who  was 
killed  by  General  Terry,  you  remembei’,  in  a duel — Terry,  you 
remember,  also,  was  himself  killed  recently  by  the  U.  S.  Marshal, 
defending  Judge  Field  from  his  attack.  We  returned  about  dark  on 
the  Cable  Car,  and  thus  ended  the  day. 

I found  another  card  from  my  San  Bias  Friend,  Captain  Johnston, 
regretting  my  absence,  and  his  inability  to  catch  me ; and,  also,  two 
cards  from  Commodore  Jefferson  Maury — having  called  twice.  And 
when  I entered  the  Hotel  on  my  return  from  the  Park  and  Ceme- 
tery, I was  cordially  greeted  in  the  Office  by  Phil.  Dandridge,  with 


SAN  FRANCISCO. 


67 


whom  I had  some  pleasaut  chat.  On  the  Street,  Judge  Thornton 
introduced  me  to  Ex-Senator  Fair,  the  Millionaire,  and  other  pro- 
minent men,  whose  names  I cannot  recall. 

I had  half  undressed,  and  was  about  to  go  to  Bed,  when  young 
Brookes  Jones  came  in,  to  hear  me  talk  about  my  travels.  After  he 
left  I was  soon  asleep. 

Same  City  and  Hotel, 

Friday,  January  10,  1890. 

The  Judge  and  I went  to  the  Stock  Exchange  this  morning  at 
half-past  nine  o’clock;  and  I was  interested  in  looking  at  the  Brokers 
for  an  hour  or  so.  The  meeting  was  small,  and  the  business  dull. 
I did  not  witness  the  scene  I once  did  in  the  Gold  Board  in  New 
York,  not  long  after  the  War, — or  in  the  Paris  Bourse — where  in 
both  places  Pandemonium  seemed  let  loose.  Very  quiet  doings  here 
in  comparison ; the  actors  were  respectable  enough  in  their  appear- 
ance and  bearing. 

We  then  went  to  the  Court  Boom,  where  the  Judge  sits — a member 
of  the  highest  Court  in  the  State — composed  of  seven  Members.  The 
Court,  like  our  Court  of  Appeals,  holds  its  Sessions  in  several  places : 
San  Francisco,  Sacramento,  and  Los  Angeles — twice  in  each  during 
the  year.  They  have  a fine  Library,  and  for  each  Judge  an  admirable 
room  for  study.  The  Court  was  not  in  Session,  and  he  introduced 
me  to  the  Chief  Justice  of  the  State — Judge  Beatty — with  whom  I 
had  a good  deal  of  talk — an  intelligent,  fine  looking  man.  We  talked 
of  things  above  the  range  of  simple  Party  Politics,  and  discussed 
themes  which  it  would  be  well  for  our  Country,  had  we  Statesmen 
in  Office  able  to  consider.  He  is  a Republican,  but  our  conversation 
was  above  collision. 

I here  left  the  Judge,  and  wandered  about  the  City,  visiting  the 
City  Hall  and  its  adjuncts,  upon  which  several  millions  have  been 
spent,  and  yet  unfinished — built  of  Brick  and  stuccoed — evidently  a 
most  costly  affair.  I have  said,  I think,  something  about  it  on  my 
First  Tour. 

Walking  out  by  Post  Street,  I returned  by  Market,  and  stopped 
in  to  see  Coleman  at  his  Office,  not  far  from  this  Hotel.  He  was  in 
this  time,  but  engaged  with  a client,  and  I wonld  not  stop.  He  said 
he  had  been  to  invite  me  to  Dine;  and  he  now  pressed  me  to  Lunch  or 
Dine  with  him,  but  I declined — having  already  declined  several  others. 


68 


LETTER  NO.  6. 


On  my  arrival  at  the  Hotel,  I found  Colonel  J.  C.  Maynard  and 
Major  M.  C.  Selden,  both  Virginians — the  latter  of  whom  I was 
earlier  in  the  day  introduced  to  by  Judge  Thornton — and  we  had  a 
good,  long,  pleasant  talk.  I found,  also,  the  cards  of  Mr.  Adolph 
Sutro,  ’and  Captain  J.  C.  Watson.  It  is  very  well  that  the  time 
of  my  departure  is  nigh.  I forgot  to  name  another  card,  from 
Commodore  Maury,  accompanied  by  a Letter  from  him  to  Captain 
Morse  of  the  Alameda  Steamship,  requesting  him  to  do  all  good 
things  for  me  as  his  passenger  to  New  Zealand.  He  is  certainly 
very  kind. 

To  Taylor:  I enclose  B.  F.  Brown’s  Letter,  also  the  Express 
Receipt  for  the  small  Box  I sent  home  the  other  day,  and  the  Labels 
for  the  Curios,  which  will  explain  themselves.  I did  not  pay  the 
Express.  I enclose,  also,  Mr.  Jones’  and  Mrs.  Maury’s  Letters, 
thinking  they  would  interest  you — keep  them. 

Mr.  Winfield  S.  Jones  called  again  and  sat  some  time  with  me — 
wanted  me  to  go  home  and  Dine  with  him — and,  also,  brought  me 
an  invitation  to  a large  Reception  to-morrow.  He  said  he  was  told 
in  the  Office  of  the  Hotel,  on  his  way  to  my  Room,  that  the  day  for 
the  Departure  of  the  Steamer  to  Auckland  had,  on  account  of  the 
waiting  for  the  English  Mails,  been  postponed  from  the  Eleventh  to 
the  Fourteenth — from  to-moiTow  to  next  Tuesday.  This,  if  true,  is 
a great  disappointment  to  me,  and  a great  loss  of  time — time  con- 
sumed here  that  could  be  utilized  in  New  Zealand  to  much  greater 
advantage. 

When  Mr.  Jones  left,  I went  down  and  inquired,  and  the  Clerk 
confirmed  the  information.  I will,  however,  now  finish  this  Letter, 
and  write  another  and  shorter  one  before  I start.  I am  sure  I cannot 
write  too  often. 

Just  here.  Judge  Thornton  came  in  and  took  me  to  his  Room, 
where  I spent  the  Evening  with  him  and  Mrs.  Thornton  and  a 
young  man  by  the  name  of  Haymond,  from  Virginia,  a grandson 
of  Old  General  Haymond,  who  was  for  forty  years  a member  of  the 
Legislature  from  Monongahela  County — now  in  West  Virginia — a 
bright  young  man.  He  has  lived  in  this  Country  for  a year  or  two, 
and  has  just  returned  from  a visit  to  Virginia. 

To  Taylor : Judge  Thornton  thinks  of  paying  a visit  to  his  friends 
and  relatives  in  the  Old  State  in  May  or  June.  Should  he  carry  out 
his  design,  he  may  pass  through  Winchester.  If  so,  you  must  have 


SAN  FRANCISCO. 


69 


him  at  the  House,  and  drive  him  out  to  the  Farm  and  about.  I 
hope  things  will  be  looking  well  when  he  gets  there. 

I will  now  close  this. 

With  tenderest  love  for  all, 

• F. 


[No.  7.] 


My  Dear  Taylor, — 


San  Francisco,  Occidental  Hotel, 

Saturday,  January  11,  1890. 


This  morning,  I despatched  to  you  No.  6,  addressed  to  Mary.  In 
it  I told  how  much  disappointed  I was  to  learn  that  the  sailing  of 
the  Steamer  for  Auckland  had  been  postponed  to  the  Fourteenth — 
next  Tuesday.  It  is  disappointing,  because  there  is  no  way  here  to 
utilize  my  time — my  friends  would  overwhelm  me  with  attentions, 
would  I allow  it — but  I am  familiar  with  the  City  and  its  surround- 
ings and  their  objects  of  interest,  and  in  writing  to  you,  I am  simply, 
I fear,  ‘‘telling  a twice  told  tale.”  I do  not  remember  to  what 
extent  I described  them  to  you  on  my  former  Tours.  On  the  con- 
trary, the  time  consumed  here  could  be  much  more  profitably  spent 
in  New  Zealand,  and  the  other  Countries  I propose  to  visit — which 
are  new  both  to  me  and  to  you  all,  for  whose  amusement  these  Letters 
are  intended. 

I inquired  again  of  the  Clerk  in  the  Office  of  the  Hotel,  hoping 
he  might  be  mistaken : but  he  told  me  the  information  was  official. 

After  Breakfast,  the  morning  being  fine,  I walked  down  to  the 
Landing,  and  saw  the  Captain  and  Purser,  who  likewise  confirmed 
the  fact  of  the  postponement  of  the  day  of  sailing.  This  made  me 
easy  with  regard  to  the  certainty ; but  not  at  all  better  satisfied. 
Being,  however,  a matter  over  which  I have  no  control,  I will  sub- 
mit “ without  any  more  ado,”  as  old  Dr.  Hill  used  to  say,  when, 
having  read  his  Text,  he  jumped,  with  his  remarkable  force,  into  the 
middle  of  his  subject. 

I then  strolled  further  along  the  Slips,  and  observed  the  Vessels 
tied  up,  loading  and  unloading,  manifesting,  in  their  number  and 


70 


LETTER  NO.  7. 


size,  the  large  Commercial  import  of  San  Francisco.  Indeed,  I have 
in  one  mode  or  other  been  over  nearly  all  the  City,  and  I cannot  fail 
to  see  the  growth  since  1882,  manifested  in  every  way,  not  only  on 
the  Water’s  edge,  but  over  its  entire  area,  both  in  the  number  of  its 
new  buildings.  Business  and  Dwelling,  and  in  their  beauty — in  some 
cases,  magnificence.  Most  of  the  Dwelling  houses  are  frame  and 
weather-boarded,  but  of  different  styles  of  Architecture — and  many 
singularly  handsome. 

I went  to  the  Pacific  Mail  S.  S.  Wharf  and  called  on  my  Friends, 
the  Captain  and  Officers  of  the  San  Bias ; who  had  all  been  to  see 
me  at  the  Hotel.  They  gave  me  a cordial  welcome ; and  I invited 
the  Captain  to  take  Breakfast  with  me  to-morrow.  On  my  return, 
I called  in  at  the  Express  Office  of  Wells,  Fargo  & Co.,  and  saw  my 
Friend  Langtry;  and  I went  thence  to  the  Bank  and  found  your 
Letter  of  January  2,  and  three  bundles  of  Papers — which  speedily 
put  a stop  to  my  wandering.  In  my  Room,  I found  Commodore 
Maury’s  card.  I am  really  annoyed  that  I should  thus  miss  the 
numerous  visits  that  he  has  so  courteously  paid  me. 

I note  what  you  say  about  altering  the  Shoe  Factory  House.  I 
have  no  doubt  it  is  the  best  thing  you  can  do.  With  the  prevailing 
tastes  and  needs,  the  Store  Room  is  too  small.  The  only  apprehen- 
sion is,  that  you  may  find  it  hard  to  rent  the  upper  apartments,  with- 
out a lower  or  ground  floor  Room  to  go  with  them.  But  I don’t 
know  what  else  you  could  have  done.  Be  careful  to  see  when  they 
heighten  the  front  windows  that  they  support  the  walls  well ; that 
there  be  no  sinking.  There  is  a slight  depression  now,  caused  by 
previous  alterations.  I would  put  an  Iron  Cellar  Door  in  front ; and 
right  up  the  wall  of  the  small  one  on  Water  Street,  and  at  the  grate 
in  the  yard.  I enclose  you  a Check,  to  help  you  in  the  work. 

Be  careful  you  do  not — in  clearing  out  the  Store  Room — 
take  away  the  supports  of  the  upper  stories.  Take  care,  also,  that 
no  heavy  or  thugging  machinery  is  put  in  the  second  and  third  stories 
by  Schneider,  or  any  one  else. 

I am  happy  to  know  you  are  getting  on  finely  at  home,  and  the 
neighbors  are  all  well.  Remember  me  in  return  to  John  Boyd,  and 
Miss  Harriette,  and  inquiring  friends — never  forgetting  Cousin  Mary. 

I found  Stuart  Baldwin’s  name  in  the  Directory — the  Firm  of 
McAtee  & Baldwin — not  far  from  this  Hotel,  on  Montgomery  Street, 
and  called  to  see  him.  His  partner  told  me  he  and  hi&  wife  were 


SAN  FRANCISCO. 


71 


absent  in  Virginia.  Your  Letter  confirms  it.  I left  a note,  regret- 
ting that  he  was  away.  His  partner  said  he  was  a fine  fellow,  and 
wanted  him  to  come  back.  It  is  a handsome  Office,  and  things  look 
healthy.  From  their  appearance,  I hope  they  are  doing  well.  Tell 
Cousin  Mary. 

Young  Mr.  Raymond  called  to  see  me.  He  says  he  is  afflicted 
with  Rheumatism — and  last  night  had  a return  of  it.  He  went  to 
Virginia  for  the  benefit  of  his  health ; and  fears  this  City  will  not 
suit  him. 

After  I had  gone  to  Bed,  Judge  Thornton  came  in,  and  sitting 
by  my  side,  we  talked  for  several  hours.  In  the  course  of  our  con- 
versation, I asked  him  if  he  knew  Stuart  Baldwin  ? he  said  he  did, 
and  spoke  very  highly  of  him,  and  his  prospects — said  he  had,  also, 
married  the  Daughter  of  a man  of  wealth.  You  must  tell  Cousin 
Mary  this,  too.  It  will  greatly  gratify  her. 

You  say  you  have  heard  nothing  further  about  the  Hotel.  I don’t 
think  you  will. 

The  Grippe  has  reached  you  at  last.  I see,  from  the  Papers,  it  has 
swept  over  the  Country  East  of  the  Mississippi.  But  the  people  out 
here  do  not  fear  it,  because  no  Epidemic  of  any  sort  has  ever  been 
able  to  cross  the  Mountains.  This  is  a misplaced  confidence,  they 
will  find  one  of  these  days.  Certainly,  it  has  not  yet  arrived.  The 
unprecedented  quantity  of  bad  weather,  of  which  I have  frequently 
spoken,  has  not  induced  disease.  The  Country  claims  to  be  unusually 
healthy.  I have  not  had  a cold  since  I left  home. 

Have  I mentioned  your  failure  to  report  the  balance  of  the  Wheat 
Crop  ? what  the  amount,  and  price  ? 

I met  my  Friend  Sutro — or  rather  was  hailed  by  him  from  his 
Buggy — on  the  Street.  He  drove  up,  and  we  had  some  talk — espe- 
cially about  his  Library.  He  had  heard  from  the  Custodian  of  our 
visit,  and  was  much  pleased  when  he  communicated  to  him  my  com- 
ments upon  his  proposed  Donation  to  the  City.  I told  him  he  could 
not  make  a more  beneficent  disposition  of  his  money,  and  he  ought 
not  to  delay ; for  the  danger  of  Fire,  in  their  present  location,  was 
great,  and  if  destroyed,  many  volumes  in  his  fine  collection  could  not 
be  replaced.  He  said  he  highly  appreciated  my  opinion  and  advice, 
and  would  act  upon  it. 


72 


LETTER  NO.  7. 


Same  City  and  Hotel, 

Sunday,  January  12,  1890. 

The  rain  poured  down  all  day — a return  of  bad  weather,  after  an 
intermission  of  three  or  four  days.  I,  consequently,  did  not  go  out. 
I finished  reading  up  the  Papers  you  sent  me.  I found  nothing  in 
them  upon  which  to  comment — nothing  of  import  a-doing  in  the 
Legislature  or  in  Congress. 

I am  anxious  to  see  my  Friend  Governor  McKinney’s  Inaugural. 
I want  to  learn  what  his  views  are  with  regard  to  the  Debt.  You 
remember,  when  I urged  him  to  manfully  take  hold  of  and  settle  it — 
which  could  easily,  with  intelligent  and  courageous  effort,  be  done — 
he  promised  that  my  anxious  advice  should  be  heeded  and  followed. 
Has  he  the  vigor  to  lead?  For  in  such  a vital  issue,  the  Governor 
— after  all  the  demoralizing  nonsense  that  has  been  talked — must  lift 
the  people  to  a higher  plane  of  thought.  Let  us  pray,  that  he  has 
the  courage  of  his  convictions — a trait  and  a blessing  not  vouchsafed 
to  many  men. 

After  Lunch,  Mr.  Arthur  Rogers,  inti’oduced  to  me  a day  or  two 
ago,  a Lawyer  of  standing  and  one  of  the  Regents  of  the  California 
University,  called  to  see  me.  He  is  from  Tennessee.  We  had  a 
long,  pleasant  talk.  I alluded  to  the  mixed  male  and  female  system 
prevailing  in  that  Institution,  and  expressed  my  views  with  regard 
to  the  outcome  of  such  a System,  especially  under  such  a Government 
as  ours.  It  is  pernicious,  and  that  continually.  Woman’s  influence 
in  her  proper  s])here  is  powerful  for  good ; out  of  it,  of  little  import, 
or  positively  vicious.  In  the  Domestic  and  Social  circles,  she  adorns 
and  beautifies  the  Home,  and  from  it  sends  out  perennial  influences 
through  every  department  of  Society  and  Government — for  she  im- 
parts those  lofty  qualities  to  the  young,  which  tell  upon  the  destinies  of 
the  Race.  In  her  own  person  on  the  Public  arena,  she  ever  is,  instead 
of  strength,  an  element  of  weakness.  That  devotion  which  makes  men 
do  and  dare  on  the  highest  fields  of  thought  and  action  under  her 
inspiration,  utterly  vanish  when  she  appears  in  person  to  achieve, 
what  her  very  organization  forbids.  The  Material  Civilization  under 
which  we  live,  has  broken  many  sacred  images,  bearing  blessings  of 
noblest  import,  let  us  save  ourselves  from  that  meanest  of  all  Icono- 
clasms,  the  overthrow  of  woman  in  her  high  and  holy  mission.  My 


SAN  FBANCISOO. 


73 


Friend  took  my  remarks  in  good  part,  but  was  not  able  to  respond — 
in  this  view,  who  can  ? 

The  Judge  joined  us — of  course  he  and  I agreed — we  are  both  too 
old  to  catch  on  to  the  new-fangled  monstrosities  which  are  constantly 
coming  along,  and  disturbing,  to  our  sober  views,  the  eternal  fitness 
of  things. 

The  weather  prevented  Captain  Johnston  from  coming  to  Break- 
fast. 

It  just  occurs  to  me — keep  your  eye  on  my  Tours  now  lent  out — 
my  absence  may  make  the  bori’owers  careless ; and  they  may  be 
destroyed,  or  stolen  by  others,  or  lost — which  you  know,  for  many 
reasons,  would  be  very  serious — being  written  solely  for  private  use. 
You  have  the  List.  I think  you  are  right  to  call  the  extra  Copies 
in,  and  lend  out  only  the  number  you  suggested. 

Same  City  and  Hotel, 

Monday,  January  13,  1890. 

To-day,  again,  is  clear  and  beautiful,  as  yesterday  was  cloudy  and 
forbidding. 

Young  Haymond  came  in  this  morning,  and  proposed  that  we 
take  train  for  Menlo  Park,  more  especially  to  see  the  Leland  Stan- 
ford University,  now  building,  the  most  costly  endowment  ever  made 
in  this  Country, — amounting,  it  is  said,  to  more  than  ten  millions  of 
dollars.  The  proposition  came  too  late  for  the  mid-day  train.  When 
we  went  out  and  inquired,  we  found  we  could  not  reach  the  Station 
by  the  schedule  time,  and  gave  up  the  trip.  Menlo  Park  is  distant 
thirty  miles  from  the  City,  and  any  later  train  would  not  have  given 
us  time  to  have  seen  it  and  returned  this  afternoon. 

Whilst  out,  I went  to  the  Bank,  hardly  expecting  to  get  a Letter, 
thinking  you  had  begun  to  write  before  this  to  New  Zealand.  But 
I was  most  agreeably  disappointed,  and  received  Margaret’s  of  Janu- 
ary 5th  : with  how  much  pleasure,  I need  not  say.  Of  course,  this 
healed  my  disappointment  about  Menlo,  and  I returned  to  my  Room 
to  read  it. 

To  Margaret:  Your  Letter  gave  me  Photographs  of  both  Charles- 
town and  Winchester,  and  kept  me  on  foot  with  the  current  of  events 
in  the  sober-sided  old  towns — not  leaving  me  in  ignorance  of  their 
festive  features — in  which  now  and  then,  and  here  and  there,  they 


74 


LETTER  NO.  7. 


make  bold  to  say,  they  cannot  and  shall  not  be  outdone  by  bigger,  if 
not  older  places. 

I am  gratified  that  Mary  brings  to  you  from  Winchester,  where 
she  sjjent  some  days  with  Taylor,  good  accounts  of  the  comfortable 
manner  in  which  he  is  getting  on  in  his  household  affairs : — how 
Mack  keeps  sober,  and  the  arrangement  about  his  sleeping  in  the 
Office  works  well : — how  Topsy  has  got  back  from  her  Christmas 
jaunt,  and  fallen  regularly  into  place  again : — how  Mr.  Topsy  seems 
to  have  disappeared  from  the  scene,  and  relieved  the  streets  of  his 
drunken  staggers  and  Taylor  from  anxiety  and  disgust: — how  Taylor 
is  interested  in  his  new  enterprise  of  remodelling  the  corner  House — 
thinks  it  a good  thing  to  do ; — how  Lewis  and  the  Rector  gently 
charged  the  Choir  with  being  somewhat,  if  not  altogether,  responsible 
for  the  late  Fire,  which  came  so  near  burning  up  our  Church,  and 
how  a member  of  said  Choir  knocked  their  ignorance  into  silence, 
and  established  her  reputation  both  as  a champion  of  Musical  good 
order,  and  a hitter  from  the  shoulder.  Poor  Rector  and  Warden — 
both  went  down,  and  under ! and  the  Choir  was  saved  as  by  fire  ” 
from  the  charge  of  Arson  ! Good  for  the  Champion,  and  Lightweight 
shoulder-hitter ; bad  for  the  Church  ! How  the  phases  of  Society 
now  and  then  get  slightly  mixed,  and  pedigrees  are  read  and  ancestral 
trees  examined,  and  nobody  can  tell  what  troubles  may  ensue,  before 
the  much-a-do  is  settled. 

I am  glad  Cousin  Fred  is  better.  Give  her  my  love,  and  tell  her 
I hope  she  will  soon  be  entirely  well  again.  I hope  you  and  Mary 
may  have  a pleasant  visit  to  Baltimore.  Give  my  love  to  the  Doctor, 
and  tell  him  when  the  Letter  reaches  me  on  my  Travels  he  shall 
certainly  know  it.  I hear  coughing  and  sneezing  about  the  Hotel — 
maybe  the  Grippe  has  come.  I hope  I may  get  off  before  it  gets  to 
me.  It  has,  however,  only  a short  time  now,  for  I hope  certainly  to 
go  to-morrow.  I trust  nothing  will  further  detain  our  Ship. 

Young  Edgar  Haymond  told  me  he  had  seen  a Telegram  from 
Virginia,  which  reported  Governor  McKinney  to  have  sent  a Message 
to  the  Legislature,  advising  them  to  stick  to  the  Riddleberger  Bill 
and  its  wretched  offspring,  and  maintain  and  sustain  them  by  all 
needful  Legislation.  This,  if  true,  is  sad  news;  and  entails  upon 
our  State  still  further  dishonor,  and  on  our  people  accumulated  woes. 
Never  has  there  been,  or  will  there  be,  any  time  more  favorable  for 
an  honorable  and  satisfactory  settlement  than  now.  The  people  have 


SAN  FBANCISCO. 


75 


just  come  out  of  a noble  victory,  and  are  flushed  with  high  endeavor. 
They  are  weary  of  the  miserable  issue,  and  looking  for  a brave  man 
to  lead  them ; the  Leader  of  the  hosts  just  now  defeated  has  com- 
mitted his  followers.  The  Creditors  are  ready  for  a compromise,  and 
there  is  nothing  easier  than  a settlement.  The  one  who  ought  to 
lead,  falters ; and  another  term  of  disreputable  fight  is  before  us — 
the  end  of  which  is  a blasting,  blighting  overthrow  of  the  good  name 
of  our  Dear  Old  Commonwealth.  It  is  better 

“to  take  arms  against  a sea  of  troubles, 

And  by  opposing,  end  them.” 

Far  better  to  confront  and  by  integrity  end  the  troubles  which  spring 
from  the  burdens  that  attend  the  keeping  of  our  faith.  But  enough 
of  this — we  have  had  it  for  years,  ad  nauseam : yet  it  ought  ever  to 
be  fresh  and  new  ! Has  our  Governor  utterly  forgotten  our  talk  ? 
and  clean  broken  down  before  the  responsibility? 

My  good  Friend  Commodore  Maury  came  again  to  see  me. 
Happily,  I was  at  my  Room  and  saw  him,  and  we  had  a pleasant 
talk.  I gave  him  a Letter  I had  written  to  him  and  Mrs.  Maury — 
not  expecting  to  see  him — expressive  of  my  appreciation  of  their 
kindness  and  courtesy. 

I dropped  in  to  see  Winfield  Jones  for  a moment  or  two,  to  bid 
him  Good  Bye ! and  had  some  pleasant  chat.  He  regretted  much 
that  I did  not  go  to  his  friend  Mrs.  Friedlander’s  Reception — it  was 
very  large — and  after  it  a Dinner  for  forty  of  the  Guests.  The 
Evening,  for  a couple  of  hours,  I spent  with  my  Friends  Judge 
and  Mrs.  Thornton — pleasantly  as  usual.  They  gave  me  a Bottle  of 
Brandy — which  the  Judge  said  was  wonderfully  fine — and  a Bottle  of 
Cologne — which  Mrs.  Thornton  pronounced  equal  in  its  qualities — 
both  presents  to  them  from  their  friends ; and  I parted  with  hosts  of 
pleasant  memories  for  them  both.  Should  the  Judge  get  to  Win- 
chester, you  must  not  forget  to  show  him  our  Old  Houie — he  will 
enjoy  it  like  a Virginian,  and  appreciate  its  tender  associations,  and 
not  wonder  at  all,  that  we  love  it. 

And  now,  at  ten  o’clock,  I will  close  this  Letter  and  go  to  Bed. 
To-morrow  morning,  before  I leave  the  Hotel  for  the  Ship,  I will 
mall  it. 

With  tenderest  love  for  all, 

F. 


76 


LETTER  NO.  7. 


I will  try  to  send  a Letter  from  the  Sandwich  Islands.  After  that 
you  must  not  get  impatient  if  you  do  not  hear  for  a good  while — the 
Journey  to  New  Zealand  and  back  is  long,  both  in  distance  and  time. 
Continue  to  write  to  Auckland,  till  I request  the  contrary.  As  at 
present  advised,  I will  make  it  my  forwarding  point. 

F. 


[Befox’e  leaving  San  Francisco,  I told  my  Friends  Judge  Thornton 
and  Mr.  Winfield  S.  Jones,  that  upon  my  arrival  at  Home,  at  the  end 
of  the  Tour,  I would  write,  and  give  them  a running  account  of  the 
Countries  and  Climes  I visited,  and  my  experiences  of  Travel. 

I did  so,  and  received  the  following  Letters,  which  I here  print, 
thinking  they  are  of  sufficient  interest  to  be  perpetuated  with  the 
story  of  the  Tour. 

San  Francisco,  October  9,  1890. 

Hon.  Fred.  W.  M.  Holliday, 

My  Dear  Governor, — I thank  you  for  your  bright,  breezy,  newsy, 
entertaining  Letter,  which  I read  with  much  pleasure.  I congratulate 
you  in  reaching  home  again  in  good  health  and  spirits, — the  better, 
your  Letter  plainly  showed,  after  your  most  interesting  Tour  around 
the  World. 

Well,  my  Dear  Friend,  I did  pay  my  long-expected  and  desired 
visit  to  Virginia  during  the  past  Summer.  I went  into  the  State 
on  the  14th  of  June  and  left  it  on  the  2d  of  July,  after  the  most 
delightful  and  charming  sojourn  of  eighteen  days  that  a man  ever 
had.  Eveiy  moment  of  my  stay  among  the  people  of  my  native 
State  was  filled  with  a happiness  I cannot  express  in  words.  It  was 
my  first  visit  after  an  absence  of  thirty-six  years.  My  cup  was  filled 
to  overflowing.  I saw  all  of  my  nearest  relations  and  many  of  my 
old  friends.  Every  one  seemed  to  be  pleased  to  see  me,  and  I know 
I was  pleased  to  see  every  one.  I was  at  the  University  of  Virginia 
for  several  days,  and  had  it  in  full  contemplation  to  go  to  Winchester 
to  see  your  Brother.  I could  with  ease  have  gone  from  the  University 
to  Winchester  and  returned  on  the  same  day  or  the  next  morning, 
and  have  with  a bold  face  by  your  direction  and  authority  introduced 


SAN  FRANCISCO— LETTER  FROM  JAMES  D.  THORNTON.  77 


myself  to  your  Brother,  enjoyed  bis  society  and  hospitality  for  a few 
hours  at  least,  and  have  learned  of  your  rovings.  But  most  unex- 
pectedly my  plans  were  deranged  by  the  necessity  imposed  on  me  of 
turning  aside  from  them  to  visit  a relative — which  took  one  day,  and 
this  broke  up  my  designed  Excursion  to  Winchester.  You  know 
what  often  happens  to  “ the  best  laid  plans  of  mice  and  men.”  Mine 
went  awry,  as  so  frequently  occurs  in  Life’s  vicissitudes.  I sliould 
have  enjoyed  a visit  to  your  home  much,  I know.  I was  curious 
and  desirous  of  seeing  the  classic  Valley  of  the  beloved  Old  State  in 
crossing  the  lower  portion  of  it  years  ago  on  the  Baltimore  and  Ohio 
Railroad.  The  consolation  remains,  that  it  is  a pleasure  which  yet 
lies  in  the  future. 

Mrs.  Thornton  and  I missed  you  much  after  you  left  our  City. 
Judge  Deady,  of  Oregon,  and  his  wife  were  going  on  the  same  Steamer 
as  far  as  Honolulu,  and  I took  the  liberty  of  telling  him  to  intx’oduce 
himself  and  Mrs.  Deady  promptly  to  you,  as  he  would  find  you  a 
charming  companion.  I saw  him  on  his  return,  and  he  told  me  he 
had  a delightful  time  with  you.  You  will  bo  pleased  to  learn  that 
the  Judge  was  much  improved  in  health  by  his  sojourn  in  the  Islands. 
We  have  talked  much  of  you,  since  you  vanished  from  our  midst.  It 
would  be  charming  to  have  you  come  about  twice  a year,  laden  with 
news  of  Virginia  and  Virginians.  But  such  good  luck  cannot  be 
expected. 

While  in  Virginia,  I went  from  Charlottesville  to  Richmond, 
from  Richmond  to  Petersburg,  thence  to  Farmville,  thence  to  Hamp- 
den Sidney  College,  thence  through  Cumberland  County  to  visit 
my  relatives  in  the  County  of  Powhatan,  thence  to  Richmond,  to 
Williamsburg,  and  back  to  Richmond,  thence  returning  to  the  Uni- 
versity, reaching  there  on  the  3d  of  June,  remaining  with  my  Nephew, 
William  M.  Thornton,  Professor  of  Applied  Mathematics,  till  the 
forenoon  of  the  2d  of  July,  when  I took  my  departure  on  the  after- 
noon of  the  day  last  named  for  California. 

From  all  I could  learn,  I came  to  the  conclusion  that  Virginia 
was  in  a fairly  prosperous  condition,  and  that  an  astonishing 
advance  would  manifest  itself  within  the  next  ten  and  twenty 
years.  Whatever  destiny,  my  Dear  Governor,  may  be  her’s,  may 
God  bless  her  and  her  dear  people ! I am  sure  God  loves  the 
Old  State ! 


78 


LETTER  NO.  7. 


My  Wife  and  I are  much  gratified  at  being  so  kindly  remembered 
by  you,  I shall  be  greatly  pleased  to  receive  a line  from  you  at  any 
time,  and  I will  try  and  send  you  something  in  reply. 

And  now,  with  kindest  wishes  and  high  regard  and  esteem, 

I remain,  yours  most  truly, 

James  D.  Thornton. 

Before  leaving  Home  on  my  Seventh  Tour,  through  France,  Italy, 
and  Egypt,  I wrote  to  my  Friend,  Judge  Thornton,  telling  him  of 
my  intention.  I received  the  following  response  in  Marseilles,  France, 
forwarded  by  my  Brother  Taylor. 

San  Francisco,  California, 

August  20,  1891. 

Hon.  Fred.  W.  M.  Holliday, 

My  Dear  Governor, — I am  delighted  to  receive  your  charming 
Letter,  which  reached  me  on  the  evening  of  the  18th  inst.  My  Wife 
and  I had  been  talking  of  you  but  a few  days  before  its  arrival, 
probably  about  the  time  it  was  written,  on  the  4th  of  the  month. 

I obey  the  impulse  to  send  you  a reply  at  once,  which  may  reach 
you  somewhere  on  your  extensive  Tour.  When  I think  of  you  my 
mind  recurs  to  our  Native  State,  so  dear  to  our  hearts,  and  I medi- 
tate on  our  future  with  deep  and  abiding  interest.  I think  as  you 
do  of  Booms.  They  may  do  some  good  : but  more  harm  than  good. 
When  in  Virginia  last  Summer,  I kept  my  eyes  open  and  ears,  too. 
I observed  everything  in  sight  which  I could  see  during  my  brief 
sojourn  within  its  borders ; and  I talked  with  every  one  I met  about 
its  prosperity  and  growth,  and  I became  convinced  that  the  Old  State 
was  on  the  Eve  of  an  advance,  of  which  few  within  its  borders  had 
any  conception.  From  what  I have  heard  since  I passed  the  Western 
boundary  of  the  State  on  the  morning  of  the  3d  of  July,  1890,  my 
anticipations  are  becoming  realities.  I expressed  myself  in  the  terms 
above  indicated  to  several  of  my  friends  and  relatives  in  Virginia. 
They  said  they  felt  much  encouragement  as  to  the  future  of  the  State. 
I am  of  opinion  that  the  material  advancement  of  Virginia  in  the 
next  twenty  years  will  exhibit  an  increase  of  wealth  ten  times  greater 
than  has  ever  taken  place  in  any  score  of  years  of  her  existence,  and 


SAN  FRANCISCO— LETTER  FROM  JAMES  D.  THORNTON.  79 


probably  the  increment  dnring  the  period  mentioned  will  be  greater 
than  that  of  her  entire  previous  life.  This  may  seem  to  you  very 
extravagant,  and  may  produce  a smile  of  incredulity.  You  may  say, 
the  man’s  love  for  his  Native  State  has  alFected  the  poise  of  his  judg- 
ment; the  ‘‘wish”  with  him  is  “father  to  the  thought.”  This  may 
be  so;  but  I am  firmly  of  the  opinion,  that  the  prediction  will  be 
verified. 

My  grounds  for  the  opinion  are,  mainly,  the  abundance  of  money 
in  the  world  seeking  investment;  the  cheapness  of  land  in  Virginia; 
its  abundant  resources,  particularly  in  Coal  and  Iron ; its  climate  and 
location  in  the  centre  of  the  Line  of  States  along  the  Atlantic  Coast ; 
the  great  arena  for  investment,  and  profitable  investment,  too,  in 
Africa  and  the  Southern  States,  the  latter  far  in  the  lead — the  esti- 
mate that  from  three  to  four  thousand  millions  of  dollars  have  gone 
into  the  South  for  investment  within  the  last  thirteen  years.  This 
estimate  cannot  be  considered  wild  or  unreliable,  as  it  comes  from 
intelligent  men,  who  know  what  they  talk  of.  Apropos  of  this,  a 
gentleman  of  this  City  sent  me  yesterday  morning  an  Article  written 
by  the  Duke  of  Marlborough  and  published  in  the  New  York  Herald 
of  the  10th  of  May  last.  It  was  published  in  the  Herald  in  advance 
of  its  publication  in  London.  The  Herald  states  that  it  is  “the 
Report  of  the  Duke  of  his  recent  tour  of  inspection,”  “ through  the 
Iron  and  Coal  regions  of  the  South,”  and  that  “ upon  receiving  his 
Report,  hundreds  of  English  Capitalists  would  decide  whether  or  not 
to  make  contemplated  investments.”  The  Report  is  highly  favorable 
in  every  respect.  His  Grace,  you  know,  is  perhaps  something  of  a 
blackguard,  but  want  of  sense  is  the  least  of  his  failings.  He  has  the 
reputation  all  over  England  of  being  a man  of  ability,  as  has  his 
Brother,  Lord  Randolph  Churchill.  I look  for  big  investments  in 
Virginia  in  consequence  of  this  Report.  He  mentions  the  Old  State 
frequently  in  his  Report,  and  with  most  favorable  remarks  as  to  her 
climate  and  resources. 

Well,  now,  you  say  what  of  all  this?  What  good  will  wealth  do 
the  Virginians  ? It  will  undoubtedly  enable  the  State  to  keep  pace 
with  the  advancing  Civilization  of  the  World — to  pay  her  Debts  and 
provide  for  the  Education  of  her  people.  I have  my  doubts  whether 
Riches  will  improve  the  real,  typical  Virginian.  But  he  will  have 
an  opportunity  to  try  it.  I hope  he  will  come  out  of  the  trial  all 
right,  mentally  and  morally,  and  with  full  pockets.  Though  I like 


80 


LETTER  NO.  7. 


the  prayer  to  be  delivered  from  temptation,  yet  I am  willing  that  the 
dear  people  of  the  unterrified  Commonwealth  may  be  subjected  to  the 
trial,  which  such  a state  of  things  may  bring  about.  I indulge  the 
hope  that  the  trial  will  bring  no  evil. 

I shall  never  cease  to  regret  that  I did  not  go  to  Winchester  and 
see  your  Brother,  while  I was  at  the  University,  where  I spent  several 
days  with  my  Nephew.  I was  anxious,  if  I could  not  see  you,  to 
see  your  Brother,  and  have  a look  at  the  far-famed  Valley  where 
was  gathered  the  illustrious  Stonewall  Brigade.  I was  extremely 
desirous  of  seeing  Winchester,  that  noted  town  which  was  taken  and 
retaken  eighty-three  times  during  our  Civil  War.  I feel  now  that 
I lost  much  in  not  seeing  your  beautiful  Valley.  If  God  spares  my 
life,  I hope  to  drop  down  on  you  some  day,  when  we  can  roam  over 
the  Classic  spots  rendei’ed  famous  through  all  time  by  heroism  and 
valor.  When  it  will  be  I cannot  now  say.  But  I hope  and  trust  it 
will  yet  come. 

I have  crossed  the  Valley  on  the  Baltimore  and  Ohio  Railroad 
many  years  ago,  when  going  from  Baltimore  to  Cumberland  by  the 
way  of  Harper’s  Ferry.  This  was  in  November,  1845.  Last  Sum- 
mer, I crossed  it  on  the  2d  of  July,  in  going  from  Charlottesville,  by 
way  of  Staunton  and  Clifton  Forge,  to  Huntington.  I have  yet  to 
go  along  it.  This  I was  anxious  to  do,  and  I anticipate  that  pleasure 
yet,  at  some  day  in  the  future. 

My  Wife  has  just  returned  home  to-day  from  a brief  visit  to  our 
daughter  and  her  husband.  Captain  John  C.  Watson.  Captain  W. 
is  stationed  at  the  Mare  Island  Navy  ^ard.  She  will  be  as  much 
pleased  to  hear  from  you  as  I was.  She  is  in  most  excellent  health. 

• My  own  health  is  fairly  good.  We  are  more  than  a year  older  than 
we  were  when  you  last  saw  us,  and  are  now  properly  numbered  with 
the  old  people.  My  term  of  Judge  expired  at  the  beginning  of  this 
year,  and  I have  again  resumed  practice.  The  printing  on  the  first 
page  of  the  sheet  will  inform  you  where  my  Office  is  located. 

We  have  been  much  distressed  by  the  intelligence  received  yester- 
day of  the  death  of  two  of  our  Grandchildren  at  Santa  Monica,  Los 
Angeles  County,  California,  which  occurred  on  the  morning  of  that 
day.  The  deceased  were  the  children  of  my  daughter  Maggie,  who 
married  Mr.  Abbot  Kierney.  The  news  came  by  a Telegram,  handed 
to  me  while  sitting  at  Breakfast.  I am  disposed  to  submit  without  a 
murmur  to  such  dispensations.  They  are  ordered  in  infinite  wisdom. 


SAN  FRANCISCO— LETTER  FROM  JAMES  D.  THORNTON.  81 


and  should  evoke  neither  complaint  nor  murmur.  Nevertheless,  they 
wound  and  wring  the  heart.  My  Wife  is  making  the  necessary 
arrangements  to  repair  to  Santa  Monica  for  a brief  sojourn  with  our 
Daughter  and  Son-in-Law,  to  minister  to  them  such  solace  as  her 
society  can  afford. 

I trust  that  you  may  have  a pleasant  and  instructive  Tour,  and 
return  home  in  good  health  and  more  in  love  with  your  Native  Land 
than  ever.  You  have  before  you  a most  delightful  Itinerary. 

I shall  send  this  to  Winchester,  care  of  your  Brother,  who  will 
forward  it  as  directed.  If  you  have  time,  you  can  drop  for  me  a line 
while  on  your  Travels : perhaps  from  the  Piraeus  or  the  Aci’opolis, 
or  maybe  from  the  Holy  City  or  Damascus. 

My  Wife  joins  me  in  kindest  regards  to  you,  and  with  assurances 
of  highest  esteem  and  regard,  I remain. 

Truly  your  friend, 

James  D.  Thornton. 

The  foregoing  Letter,  as  I have  remarked,  was  forwarded  to  me 
by  my  Brother  Taylor  and  received  at  Marseilles.  I carried  it  with 
me  on  my  Travels  and  answered  it  on  the  Nile — mailing  it  in  Cairo, 
Egypt,  February  13,  1892.  After  my  return  home  from  that  Tour, 
I received  a San  Francisco  Paper  of  April  6,  1893,  giving  a graphic 
account  of  the  murder  of  one  of  Judge  Thornton’s  sons,  Harry  I. 
Thornton,  in  Arizona,  and  the  search  for  and  finding  of  his  body  by 
another  son,  Crittenden  Thornton. 

I at  once  wrote  to  Judge  and  Mrs.  Thornton  a Letter  of  deepest 
sympathy,  and  received  the  following  response. 

San  Francisco,  California, 

May  15,  1893. 

Hon.  F.  W.  M.  Holliday, 

My  Dear  Governor, — Yours  of  28th  ult.  reached  me  in  due  course. 
It  was  read  with  interest  by  Mrs.  Thornton  and  myself,  and  is  highly 
appreciated.  Its  assurances  of  sympathy  are  very  gratifying.  We 
thank  you  for  them. 

I well  remember  your  interesting  Letter  written  on  the  great  River 
of  Egypt,  and  the  reading  your  account  of  your  Travels  thrilled  and 
6 


82 


LETTER  NO.  7. 


delighted  me.  It  was  so  full  of  many  interesting  allusions,  that  I 
almost  envied  you  in  your  enjoyment  of  your  wanderings.  But  my 
sympathy  with  you  in  your  pleasure  and  delight,  repressed  anything 
like  envious  feeling.  How  much  you  have  seen ! What  charms  you 
have  enjoyed,  and  how  much  you  can  tell  of  interesting  scenes  and 
phases  of  life  you  have  encountered  ! How  I should  like  to  meet 
you  once  more,  and  have  a long  talk  with  you  about  your  Travels  ! 
I do  not  know  that  I can  accomplish  it,  but  if  I can  I shall  leave 
here  some  time  in  September  next,  spend  some  time  in  Chicago  in 
seeing  the  wonders  of  the  Great  Exposition,  and  from  thence  go  to 
Virginia,  to  see  my  only  living  Sister.  If  I come,  I most  assuredly 
will  give  myself  the  pleasure  of  a visit  to  Winchester,  to  shake  hands 
and  have  some  talk  with  my  beloved  Friend  Governor  Holliday. 
I cannot  say,  so  far  in  advance,  what  I may  be  able  to  do  when 
September  comes ; but  I do  hope  to  accomplish  another  visit  to  my 
Native  State  before  I depart  from  this  World.  I should  enjoy  a visit 
to  Winchester  exceedingly.  It  is  a Historic  and  Classic  locality,  situ- 
ated in  a beautiful  and  fertile  Country,  settled  by  an  industrious  and 
intelligent  people.  I very  much  wish  to  see  the  Valley  of  Virginia. 
I have  read  and  heard  so  much  of  it,  that  my  curiosity  has  been 
whetted  to  a high  degree  to  see  it  in  its  beauty  and  grandeur,  and  I 
feel  assured  that  I could  not  see  the  famous  Valley  under  a more 
pleasant  guidance  than  that  of  yourself. 

I have  been  much  gratified  to  hear  thSt  the  Legislature  of  Virginia 
at  its  last  Session  passed  a Law  for  the  settlement  of  the  State  Debt, 
which  was  satisfactory  to  the  Bondholders.  I trust  the  business  has 
gone  through  to  completion  in  a manner  satisfactory  to  all  concerned, 
sustaining  the  integrity  and  honor  of  the  Venerable  Commonwealth. 

I am  engaged  in  my  old  work,  practicing  Law.  My  Office  is 
shown  on  the  first  page  of  this  sheet.  I took  up  the  practice  of  my 
Profession  soon  after  I left  the  Bench  in  January,  1891.  My  young- 
est son.  Jack, — John  T.  Thornton — came  to  my  Office  to  read  Law. 
He  studied  veiy  well — took  to  the  work  kindly,  and  some  time  in 
July  or  August  last,  he  applied  for  admission  to  the  Bar.  He  passed, 
as  I was  assured  by  the  Judges  of  our  Supreme  Court,  who  examined 
him,  a very  creditable  Examination.  I was  not  present,  but  the 
Judges  just  mentioned  told  me  that  he  did  not  miss  a question.  The 
examination  is  conducted  in  open  Court,  in  the  pi'esence  of  at  least 
three  of  the  Judges,  and  is,  as  you  know,  a trying  ordeal  to  a young 


SAN  FRANCISCO— LETTER  FROM  JAMES  D.  THORNTON.  83 


man.  Under  the  circumstances,  I was  much  pleased  that  he  came 
through  so  well.  He  is  now  my  Partner,  and  I am  endeavoring  with 
his  aid  to  build  up  a Practice,  so  as  to  give  him  a start  in  the  race 
for  a living.  I trust  that  he  will  be  able  to  fight  the  Battle  of  Life 
bravely,  and  attain  a respectable  standing  among  his  fellow-men.  I 
shall  be  satisfied  if  my  children  attain  and  maintain  a respectable 
standing.  When  you  speak  of  a family  as  a respectable  family,  do 
you  not  accord  it  what  men  generally  are  satisfied  to  attain  ? 

In  conclusion,  my  Dear  Friend,  I recur  again  to  your  Letter.  It 
came  as  a solace  and  comfort  to  the  wounded  hearts  of  my  Wife  and 
myself.  The  blow  we  had  sustained  was  a terrific  one.  I do  not 
know  that  I ever  saw  ray  Wife  so  much  distressed,  under  any  affliction. 
Your  words  of  sympathy  will  long  be  with  us  a grateful  recollection. 

My  Wife  joins  me  in  the  assurances  of  high  regard  and  kind  wishes 
for  you. 

Remember  me  to  your  Brother.  I was  pleased  to  have  a message 
of  kindness  from  him.  Assure  him  of  my  best  wishes. 

Please  write  me.  I shall  be  gratified  to  hear  from  you  at  any  time. 
I will  try  and  send  you  something  in  resjDonse ; whether  it  will  repay 
you  for  yours,  I cannot  say : but  at  any  rate  I will  make  the  effort. 

And  now,  with  assurances  of  esteem  and  regard,  I remain. 

Very  truly  your  Friend, 

James  D.  Thornton. 

P.  S. — I should  not  omit  to  state  that  our  friend  Judge  Deady 
spoke  to  me  of  you  most  kindly  on  his  return  from  the  Sandwich 
Islands,  after  his  Voyage  with  you.  He  was  much  delighted  by  his 
intercourse  with  you.  He  said,  “ We  discussed  many  subjects — on 
some  we  agreed,  on  others  we  differed ; but  nothing  disagreeable  in 
the  slightest  occurred  between  us  during  the  whole  trip.” 

Truly  yours, 

J.  D.  T. 


I received  the  following  Letter  from  my  Friend  Mr.  Winfield  S. 
Jones,  in  response  to  one  of  courtesy  I wrote  to  him  on  my  return 
Home  at  the  end  of  the  Tour. 


84 


LETTER  NO.  8. 


Security  Savings  Bank,  228  Montgomery  Street, 

San  Francisco,  September  2,  1890. 

To  Ex-Governor  F.  W.  M.  Holliday, 

Winchester,  Va. : 

My  Dear  Governor, — Your  welcome  favor  of  August  27  arouses 
the  query  often  in  my  thoughts  as  to  where  and  how  you  are  ? To 
be  at  Home  and  in  good  health  are  much  to  be  thankful  for,  and  I 
am  pleased  to  know  that  yon  are  at  least  blessed  to  this  extent.  I 
should  enjoy  beyond  expression  meeting  you  again,  and  hearing  of 
your  Travels,  and  will  indulge  the  hope  of  realizing  both  one  of  these 
days.  Will  it  not  soon  be  time  to  begin  the  preparation  of  your 
Book  on  the  Peoples  and  Countries  you  have  visited  on  your  several 
Tours?  I would  lay  aside  Stanley’s  latest  for  a work  such  as  yours 
will  be. 

Brooks  is  ofiP  on  a Business  Trip.  He  will  be  pleased  to  learn  of 
your  safe  arrival  in  Virginia,  and  would  send  Messages  were  he  at 
home. 

Vfith  very  best  wishes. 

Believe  me. 

Sincerely  yours, 

Winfield  S.  Jones.] 


[No.  8.] 


Steamship  Alameda,  Oceanic  Line, 

Harbor  of  San  Francisco, 

Tuesday,  January  14,  1890. 


My  Dear  Margaret, — 


This  morning  I mailed  No.  7 to  Taylor  at  the  Occidental  Hotel 
in  San  Francisco.  I told  you  in  it,  that  you  must  now  look  for 
Letters  at  much  longer  intervals — the  distances  are  widening.  I 
hope  to  be  able  to  mail  this  in  Honolulu,  that  it  may  hurry  back  to 
you,  whilst  I go  travelling  on. 


SAN  FRANCISCO. 


85 


By  nine  o’clock  I had  eaten  my  Breakfast,  settled  my  Bill,  fixed 
things  for  my  departure,  and  was  with  my  Baggage  in  a Coach  and 
on  my  way  to  the  Steamer  which  heads  this  Letter.  I was  thus  early, 
that  I might  get  things  aboard  before  the  crowd  came ; and  quietly 
look  around.  My  Room  is  a good  one,  and  I am  happy  to  say,  I 
have  it  alone. 

We  were  to  have  left  at  midday.  Soon  the  not  palatable  news 
came,  that  we  would  be  still  further  delayed — waiting  yet  longer  for 
the  English  Mail  across  the  Continent.  We  have,  you  perceive, 
already  lost  three  days.  This  Line  is  under  contract  with  the  Brit- 
ish Govei’nment  to  carry  its  Mail  from  San  Francisco  to  the  Colonies, 
and  is  therefore  under  obligation  to  wait  its  arrival.  Storms  on  the 
Atlantic  and  snows  among  the  Mountains  have  detained  it.  How 
long  we  have  yet  to  wait  who  knows  ? 

I,  therefore,  determined  to  not  bother  about  the  matter,  but  take 
things  easy  till  the  Steamer’s  Ladyship  was  ready  to  go ; knowing 
full  well  that  my  bother  would  have  no  effect  on  her  hurry.  The 
day  was  pleasant  and  I walked  the  Deck,  looking  at  the  people 
coming  and  going.  There  were  a good  many  who  appeared  to  be 
passengers,  and  the  promise  seemed  to  be  of  a pretty  large  list.  But 
the  display  was  not  like  that  of  which  I have  told  you  several  times, 
when  the  send-off  comes  to  one  of  the  Atlantic  Steamships,  starting 
upon  her  voyage  to  Europe.  The  Landing  and  Steamer  here  are  of 
less  import,  as  are,  also,  the  cities  and  countries,  the  termini  of  their 
run. 

Among  them  all,  I did  not  know  one.  It  looked  rather  gloomy 
not  to  know  a single  person  aboard.  But  this  has  happened  to  me 
many  a time  before — soon  acquaintanceship  springs  up,  and  it  is 
singular,  how  upon  a long  voyage  we  pass  and  meet,  till,  after  awhile, 
the  Ship  becomes  a common  gronnd,  upon  which  each  knows  every 
other.  At  the  end  of  our  journey  the  set  is  broken  up  and  scattered, 
and  a new  one  formed,  in  its  own  turn  to  meet  the  same  fate.  I 
doubt  not  I will  know  most  of  my  comrades  before  our  parting  day. 

I was  interested  in  watching  the  taking  on  of  passengers  and  cargo. 
Among  them  was  a family  of  Chinese  brought  to  us  in  a Tug.  The 
owner  of  it  did  not  land  his  charge  upon  the  wharf,  but  came  to  the 
side  of  the  Vessel  towards  the  water,  and  called  for  an  officer.  He 
said  the  Law  forbade  his  landing  any  of  that  nationality  upon  Cali- 
fornia soil,  and  the  ship  must  take  them  directly  from  his  Tug. 


86 


LETTER  NO.  8. 


This  was  soon  understood,  and  the  Quartermaster  came.  There  were 
fiv^e  Chinese,  two  men,  a woman,  and  two  small  children.  The  ques- 
tion was  how  to  get  them  from  the  low  Tug  to  the  high  Deck  of  the 
Steamer,  twelve  or  fifteen  feet : the  means  of  ascent  was  a rope-ladder 
hung  perpendicularly  from  the  bulwarks — quite  a climb  for  anybody 
— a serious  one  for  the  children  and  for  the  woman  with  her  little 
distorted  feet.  The  men  succeeded  very  well ; one  of  the  children, 
quite  an  infant,  of  course  could  not ; the  other,  a little  fellow  of 
eight  or  ten  years,  probably  not  so  old,  was  told  to  climb,  and  with- 
out demur  went  at  it.  I suggested  to  the  Quartermaster  to  let  down 
a chair,  but  the  brutal  fellow  refused,  saying  he  could  not  make  the 
boy  any  bigger,  or  give  the  woman  bigger  feet ; they  must  manage 
the  best  they  could.  The  boy  undertook  his  work  with  the  compo- 
sure and  pertinacity  of  his  Race,  and  without  help  mounted  the  rope. 
His  countenance,  as  he  climbed,  was  full  of  resolution,  but  when  he 
reached  the  Steamer’s  Deck  he  became  deathly  sick,  through  the 
nervous  strain  he  had  undergone.  The  Officer  seemed  then  for  the 
first  to  see  the  outrage  he  was  guilty  of,  for  he  had  proposed  that  the 
woman  should  climb  into  the  ship  by  the  same  mode — which  would 
have  been  impossible,  for  she  could  not  use  her  feet  upon  level  ground 
without  assistance — and  then  it  occurred  to  him  to  open  the  low  iron 
portal  of  the  vessel,  used  for  the  taking  on  of  freight.  I mention 
this  incident  to  show,  not  only  the  vigor  of  these  Celestials,  old  and 
young,  but  the  manner  in  which  they  are  treated  by  the  people  of 
this  Coast,  whose  antipathy  to  them  is  great  beyond  expression.  And 
whilst  this  treatment  by  an  employee  of  a Line  on  which  they  had 
purchased  passage  was  most  brutal  and  unjustifiable,  yet  the  opposi- 
tion to  their  coming  is,  without  any  doubt,  well  founded.  This  we 
have  talked  about  enough  on  former  Tours. 

I found  in  my  room,  my  friend  J.  H.  Langtry’s  card  with  this 
endorsement : “ Good  Bye  ! and  a pleasant  voyage.  Stanley’s  Trail 
through  the  Dark  Continent  will  be  your  next.”  He  had  missed 
seeing  me — not  knowing  I was  on  Deck. 

I ought  to  tell  you  the  tragic  story  of  Joe  Baldwin’s  life  and 
family,  given  me  last  night  by  Mrs.  Thornton.  You  know  whom 
I mean — the  author  of  “ Flush  Times  in  Alabama,”  and  “ Party 
Leaders.”  You  saw  him,  you  remember,  in  Winchester  just  before 
he  moved  to  California  to  live.  He,  soon  after  his  arrival  here,  won 
great  distinction  as  a Lawyer  and  man  of  talents,  and  was  elevated 


STEAMSHIP  ALAMEDA— PACIFIC  OCEAN. 


87 


to  the  Bench,  where  he  maintained  his  former  and  won  fresh  reputa- 
tion. He  was  naturally  a brilliant  man,  and  his  wife  was  equally 
brilliant,  a Miss  White  of  our  Winchester  family,  I believe,  though 
he  married  her  in  the  South.  They  had  seven  children,  five  boys 
and  two  girls.  The  former  afl  reached  manhood — and  were  all  tal- 
ented— two  aiet  violent  deaths  : one  by  the  Indians,  one  on  the  Rail- 
road ; the  others  died  of  disease — generally  consumption.  Of  the 
girls — both  brilliant — one  married  Judge  Felton,  an  eminent  man, 
who  died  young  ; his  widow  soon  followed.  Judge  Joe  Baldwin  died 
of  Lockjaw,  I think  before  any  of  his  family.  The  repeated  dread- 
ful blows  fell  upon  his  widow — who  still  lives,  with  one  daughter, 
the  sole  survivor  of  the  large  family.  This  true  story  surpasses 
tragedy  in  its  sorrowful  incidents. 

The  day  clouded  up  as  it  progressed,  and  when  I went  to  bed  the 
promise  of  weather  was  not  good  for  the  morrow — nor  was  the 
promise  of  the  missing  Mail  any  better. 

I learn  the  Captain  is  aboard,  but  has  the  Grippe.  The  ugly 
disease  has  come,  notwithstanding  all  predictions  to  the  contrary. 

On  Same  Steamee, 

Pacific  Ocean,  San  Feancisco  to  Honolulu, 
Wednesday,  Thursday  and  Friday, 

January  15,  16  and  17,  1890. 

At  seven  o’clock  on  Wednesday  morning  we  passed  through  the 
Golden  Gate  out  upon  the  Great  Ocean — this  time  to  cross  it. 

The  Mail,  in  large  volume,  I was  told,  came  last  night  and  was 
safely  put  aboard.  Our  long  delay  was  at  an  end,  and  to  my  delight 
we  started  upon  our  voyage.  My  time  was  spent  most  pleasantly  in 
San  Francisco ; but  I felt  all  the  while,  it  was  that  much  abstracted 
from  the  days  I would  otherwise  spend  at  home  upon  the  terminus 
of  my  Tour : and  I was  glad  when  the  Steamer  set  out  upon  its  race. 
It  is  a good  Ship,  of  three  thousand  tons,  and  quite  well  appointed ; 
but,  of  course,  not  to  compare  with  the  Atlantic  Steamers.  We  have 
between  eighty  and  one  hundred  first-class  passengers — thirty-two 
for  the  Sandwich  Islands;  only  five  of  us  for  Auckland;  the  balance 
for  Sydney,  Australia,  the  terminus  of  the  Steamer’s  run. 

When  we  steamed  through  the  Golden  Gate,  out  upon  the  Ocean’s 
bosom,  we  were  not  hospitably  received.  Soon  clouds  overspread  the 


88 


LETTER  NO.  8. 


sky,  the  winds  arose,  and  the  waves  with  them,  and  tossed  us  roughly. 
For  the  three  days  which  head  this  Letter  has  this  treatment  con- 
tinued— the  Fiddles  all  the  time  upon  the  table  to  keep  the  things 
in  order ; and  rarely  more  than  eight  or  ten  appearing  at  the  meals — 
the  rest  scattered  in  their  cots  about  the  ship  helplessly.  My  good 
Sea-going  qualities  kept  with  me,  and  I surveyed  the  field  calmly 
and  preserved  my  equipoise.  The  Sea  and  I continue  good  friends, 
and  no  question  of  disagreement  ever  happens. 

I have  never  in  my  thousands  of  miles  of  travel  over  this  Ocean, 
seen  it  in  such  a frame  of  mind  ; though  you  will  recall,  that  my 
travels  along  its  rim  and  over  its  huge  bulk  have  been  generally  in 
more  genial  seasons — in  Spring  or  Summer.  The  Officers  of  the 
Steamer,  however,  say  that  it  is  unusually  rough,  and  they  have 
rarely  at  any  time  seen  it  so  ill-tempered.  No  violent  storm,  like 
those  I told  you  of  on  the  Arctic  and  Atlantic,  has  tossed  us,  but 
enough  of  wind  to  plough  deep  waves,  which  bear  the  heavy  Ship 
upon  their  backs,  and  pitch  her  to  and  fro,  and  up  and  down  con- 
temptuously. Thus  these  three  days  have  gone,  and  I have  not  been 
able  to  write  a line ; even  if  I had,  I hardly  know  what  I would 
have  written — only,  that  the  days  came  and  went,  with  their  three 
meals  of  Breakfast,  Lunch,  and  Dinner — set  for  everybody,  but  with 
scarce  anybody  to  partake.  Each  day  we  looked  for  better  weather 
— the  Officers  thus  promised — but  better  did  not  come ; and  I have 
profited  to  this  extent,  that  I now,  from  experience,  for  the  first  time 
learn,  that  this  good  Ocean  does  not  always  deserve  its  gentle  name. 

Of  course,  no  land  appears  to  engage  our  attention,  nor  can  any, 
till  we  sight  the  Hawaiian  Islands ; nor,  strange  to  say,  has  a single 
Vessel,  smoke  or  sail,  loomed  up  upon  the  Sea,  nor  a single  bird  to 
adorn  the  air,  nor  a single  living  thing  to  stir  the  water.  We  have 
the  Ocean,  in  its  barren  ruggedness,  to  ourselves  alone.  Most  of  the 
time  the  Sky  has  been  overcast  with  clouds,  and  the  waves  have  been 
murky  and  forbidding.  But  we  are  travelling  fast  toward  Summer 
Seas,  and,  doubtless,  soon  we  will  pass  into  a different  sphere,  with 
all  its  attendant  beauties. 

My  seat  is  presumed  to  be  one  of  honor,  at  the  Captain’s  table. 
By  my  side  are  Hon.  Mathew  P.  Deady,  U.  S.  District  Judge  from 
Oregon,  and  his  wife ; opposite,  Hon.  Godfrey  Brown,  late  Minister 
of  Foreign  Affairs  under  the  Hawaiian  Government,  a pleasant, 
intelligent  gentleman,  now  returning  to  Honolulu  from  a short  visit 


STEAMSHIP  ALAMEDA— PACIFIC  OCEAN. 


89 


to  California ; the  other  seats  opposite,  thus  near  the  table-end,  have, 
by  reason  of  the  unjileasant  weather,  not  yet  shown  their  occupants. 
Nor  has  the  Captain’s  chair  been  filled : — I remarked  already,  that 
when  we  left  the  Harbor  he  was  sick — we  have  it  now,  that  his  sick- 
ness is  by  no  means  slight — the  Grippe  has  grown  into  threatened 
Pneumonia,  and  fears  are  entertained  by  his  brother  Officers  that  the 
spell  may  be  serious.  He  has  been  confined  to  his  bed — happily  his 
wife  is  with  him. 

Judge  and  Mrs.  Heady  I saw  in  the  Dining  Room  of  the  Hotel 
Occidental ; but  did  not  make  their  acquaintance  then.  To-day, 
Friday,  he  appeared  at  the  table  for  the  first  time — Mrs.  D.  has  not 
yet  come — both  being  /lors  du  combat  by  the  Sea’s  unruly  manners. 
The  Judge  and  I greeted  each  other  like  old  time  friends,  for  he 
knew  of  me  by  reputation  and  I had  learned  of  him,  and  being  a 
Marylander  from  the  Eastern.  Shore — or  Sho’,  as  he  said  it  ought 
properly  to  be  and  had  ever  been  pronounced  by  those  who  lived 
there  and  ought  to  know — we  soon  were  easy  to  each  other,  like 
ancient  shoes.  He  is  a large  and  handsome  man,  and  has  the  bearing 
of  a gentleman  who  wears  his  title  easily.  He  told  me  he  had  been 
in  Oregon  forty  years  or  thereabouts — went  there  when  the  Country 
was  born,  and  had  been  upon  the  Bench  in  one  Court  or  another 
during  nearly  all  that  time.  He  has  kept  abreast  of  our  Virginia 
affairs,  and  knew  well  the  story  of  my  doings,  and  spoke  his  approval 
in  highest  terms.  He  is  now  broken  down  with  hard  and  long-con- 
tinued work,  and  is  seeking  rest  in  the  Hawaiian  Islands — evidently 
a man  once  of  magnificent  physique — evidently,  too,  now  nearing 
his  seventieth  year — broken  by  the  bow  being  too  long  strung.  I 
fear,  like  many  a man  before  him  in  our  Country,  he  has  begun  too 
late,  and  he  will  find  no  permanent  health-restoring  rest  short  of  that 
which  ends  the  search.  Whilst  on  this  subject,  I have  met  several 
young  men  on  board — one  from  Minneapolis,  one  from  Chicago,  and 
one  from  San  Francisco — worn  out  with  labor  and  anxiety,  looking 
for  sleep — the  fierce  Insomnia  on  their  trail.  This,  you  will  recall, 
is  a frequent  incident  on  my  travels. 

I met  a San  Franciscan,  who  told  me  he  was  once  an  Officer,  which 
afforded  him  large  field  and  opportunity  for  observation  in  the  City, 
and  gave  me  many  stories  of  the  Chinese’  hateful  work  among  them. 
When  there,  and  walking  on  the  streets  with  Captain  Maury,  he 
called  my  attention  to  a squad  of  idle  youths,  and  said  the  town  had 


90 


LETTER  NO.  8. 


hundreds  of  them — Hoodlums — wandering  and  idleing  through  its 
pastures ; no  one  knew  how  they  were  supported,  save  as  the  pimps 
and  agents  of  vicious  men — they  did  no  work  and  had  no  visible 
occupations.  Nor  was  there  from  time  to  time  any  diminution  of 
their  number,  or  of  their  worthless  qualities — rather,  on  the  contrary, 
increasing  in  number  and  rascality.  My  new-made  Ship  acquaintance 
threw  light  upon  the  picture,  by  the  characters  to  which  Captain 
Maury  had  called  my  attention.  He  said  these  youths  were  enticed  by 
the  Chinese  to  their  Dens  of  Opium  and  Lust,  and  utterly  destroyed. 
Many  hosts  of  them  are  now  Opium  “Fiends” — the  nomenclature 
of  the  Den — and  before  they  have  passed  their  teens  are  given  over 
to  a fate  far  worse  than  death.  He  said  the  Economical  question  is 
most  serious — and  the  Political  worse ; but  this  of  which  he  spoke, 
and  to  which  his  official  duties  had  given  him  admission,  was  worst 
of  all — for  the  State  in  all  its  Departments,  and  the  Social  and 
Domestic  spheres  in  all  their  functions  were  poisoned  at  their  source, 
tainting  the  fountains  from  which  their  coming  life  must  flow.  This 
is  an  ugly  picture,  and  full  of  warning  to  the  people  of  the  Pacific 
Coast.  I say,  and  have  always  said,  since  I knew  them — keep  the 
Chinese  out ! 

Among  the  numbers  I have  met  and  talked  with,  there  are  birds 
of  every  feather — some  I have  spoken  of,  some  are  sick  in  body,  and 
not  in  mind,  through  the  overwork  of  either,  and  are  looking  for 
some  elixir  to  restore  them — not  in  drugs,  but  in  pure  air  and  sky  ; 
some  are  in  search  of  pleasure,  and  expect  to  find  it  in  pursuit — some 
of  it,  and  knowledge — doubtless  they  will  find  both,  for  pleasure  and 
knowledge  are  genial  comrades  and  generally  in  company — where 
both  are  looked  for;  one  among  the  latter,  from  New  Hampshire,  and 
fond  of  Natural  Science,  asked  me  how  Butterflies  flotirished  in 
Hawaii?  said  he  had  a fine  and  varied  collection  from  the  neighbor- 
hood of  the  White  Mountains.  I expressed  surprise,  and  told  him  I 
had  not  particularly  observed  on  my  visit  there,  but  did  not  think 
he  would  find  in  the  Islands  a phenomenally  brilliant  collection.  I 
will  not  bother  you  with  any  more  of  my  comrades’  intentions  or 
pursuits.  I am  just  putting  them  down  now,  to  show  you  the  feathers 
of  the  Birds  that  come  together  and  take  long  passages  in  Ships — and 
because  I have  nothing  else  in  particular  to  do.  The  Deck  does  not 
specially  invite  me,  and  when  I am  writing  to  you  all,  whatever  be  its 


STEAMSHIP  ALAMEDA— PACIFIC  OCEAN. 


91 


purport,  I am  in  your  midst  and  talking,  however  idly  it  may  be,  and 
that  it  is  ever  pleasant  and  good  for  me  to  do. 

On  Same  Ship  and  Ocean, 

Saturday,  January  18,  1890. 

A Red-Letter  Day  in  our  Ocean  Calendar ! The  first  of  our 
Voyage  when  the  Heavens  took  off  their  veil  of  cloud,  and  the  Sea 
responded  with  surface  of  deepest,  cheeriest  Blue. 

We  could  sit  and  walk  on  Deck.  Mrs.  Deady  came  out,  and  with 
the  Judge  we  had  much  pleasant  chat.  She  has  been  sick  all  the 
time  and  not  able  to  leave  her  Room.  She  stands  in  abject  terror 
of  the  Ocean,  it  has  no  charms  for  her ; she  can  only  think  of  its 
remorseless  powei’,  and  how  it  will,  without  pity,  swallow  her  up  like 
an  atom.  Sitting,  and  looking  out  upon  its  beautiful  waters,  heaving 
now  gently,  I told  her  it  had  nothing  fierce  in  its  expression — she 
could  fearlessly  “ lay  her  hand  upon  its  mane.”  But  no  ! she  saw 
nothing  but  danger  and  apprehension  there;  and  she  would  be  happier 
off  its  bosom. 

On  a former  passage  of  this  Ship,  a gentleman  was  walking  the 
Deck,  with  his  arms  folded  in  a shawl;  a lurch  of  the  Vessel  came 
and  threw  him  against  the  Rail ; being  a tall  man,  he  struck  it  about 
the  hips  and  was  tumbled  over  into  the  water,  and  though  the  Steamer 
was  speedily  stopped  and  Boats  lowered,  his  body  was  never  found. 
Mrs.  Deady  thinks  always  of  old  Ocean’s  terrors  and  never  of  his 
charms. 

A gentleman  introduced  himself  to  me  this  morning  as  Mr.  C. 
Malfroy,  from  New  Zealand.  He  said  he  understood  I was  going 
there,  and  he  tendered  his  services  to  give  me  any  information  in  his 
power  and  aid  me  in  my  visit.  He  was  the  Commissioner  and  one 
of  the  Judges  in  the  late  Paris  Exposition,  and  is  now  on  his  return. 
He  has  charge  of  the  Government  Property  in  the  Celebrated  Hot 
Lake  Region  of  the  North  Island,  and,  of  course,  can  render  me  great 
assistance.  He  gave  me  maps  and  charts,  which  will  help  me.  He 
is  a Frenchman,  but  has  been  in  New  Zealand  nearly  thirty  years, 
and  speaks  English  fluently.  I seem  to  be  in  travel-luck  again. 

The  fine  day  appears  to  have  put  new  life  into  the  sick-weary 
passengers.  They  come  out,  and  chirp,  and  bob  around  in  the  sun- 
shine, and  however  suicidal  they  felt  a few  hours  ago,  they  now  seem 


92 


LETTER  NO.  8. 


not  at  all  disinclined  to  yet  live  awhile.  And  the  Judge  and  Mrs. 
Deady  and  I have  had  much  old-fashioned,  quiet,  cheery  talk,  mixed 
with  a flavor  of  intelligence,  which  Charles  will  remember  our  Vener- 
able and  splendid  Friend,  General  John  S.  Preston,  used  to  say  was 
no  where  on  the  earth  indulged  in  with  greater  fullness  and  perfec- 
tion than  among  the  cultured  of  our  beloved  Southland,  when  in  her 
prime.  Mrs.  Deady  is  from  Missouri. 

The  Captain  is  no  better,  and  the  Pui’ser  is  down.  Indeed,  nearly 
all  the  Officers  have  the  Grippe,  and  many  of  the  men. 

Same  Ship  akd  Ocean, 

Sunday,  January  19,  1890. 

The  beauties  of  the  Sea  and  Sky  to-day  are  gone.  Last  night, 
clouds  came  up,  and  the  winds  bestirred  themselves,  and  I knew 
before  I arose  that  a change  had  come,  and  that  a bad  spell  for  Mrs. 
Deady  had  slipped  in,  and  many  who  felt  with  her.  The  whole  day 
the  Sea  has  been  billowy,  and  the  Sky  has  been  cloudy,  spitting  rain. 
No  preacher  is  aboard,  and  even  if  there  was,  I hardly  think,  on 
account  of  the  weather,  an  audience  could  have  been  gathered. 

There  seems  to  be  a detachment  of  the  Salvation  Army  among  the 
Steerage.  One  appeared  this  morning,  with  a red  band  around  his 
cap — Salvation  Army  emblazoned  on  it — and  a bundle  of  News- 
papers, called  the  War  Cry,  under  his  arm  for  distribution.  It  was 
a folio  of  a couple  of  sheets,  and  a more  perfect  pack  of  nonsense  and 
trash  one  would  not  wish  to  see.  I speak  knowingly,  for  I took  one 
and  read  it.  I have  seen  these  people  in  England  and  Scotland,  and 
spoken  of  them,  you  remember,  when  there.  Of  all  the  freaky  phases 
our  Christian  Religion  has  assumed  in  different  ages,  this  appears  to 
be  the  silliest  and  most  repulsive.  Yet,  what  a host  of  followers 
they  profess  to  have  ! 

Same  Ship  and  Ocean, 

Monday  and  Tuesday,  January  20  and  21,  1890. 

Monday  was  no  improvement  on  Sunday,  in  Sea  or  Sky.  A 
Tropical  downpour  of  short  duration  announced  our  approach  to  the 
domain  of  the  Sun ; but  did  not,  as  usual  with  such  phenomena,  shine 
with  any  more  brightness  than  before.  The  day  continued,  in  Eng- 
lish phrase,  “dirty”  and  “nasty”  enough,  and  the  Sea-sick  continued 


STEAMSHIP  ALAMEDA— PACIFIC  OCEAN. 


93 


in  the  dumps.  A few  Boobies — the  beautiful-winged  and  graceful 
bird,  you  know,  of  which  I have  often  written  on  previous  Tours — 
came  out  to  see  us. 

To-day,  Tuesday,  has  been  better.  I have  had  many  talks,  but  none 
that  will  specially  interest  you  or  throw  any  light  upon  my  Voyage. 

To-morrow  Morning  we  will  come  to  Honolulu — twenty-one  hun- 
dred miles  from  San  Francisco — another  link  in  the  long  chain 
completed.  We  will  stop  a few  hours.  We  will  lose  a good  many 
of  our  passengers : but  will,  doubtless,  take  on  others  in  their  stead. 

I am  in  fine  health,  and  have  been  every  day  since  we  parted.  I 
trust  the  same  blessing  has  been  with  you  every  one. 

I will  close  this  Letter  now  ; I may  not  have  time  to-morrow.  I 
will  take  it  to  the  Post  Office  in  Honolulu,  and  send  it  to  you  by 
the  speediest  route.  I fear  it  will  be  delayed  for  want  of  a Steamer. 
But  let  it  go,  quick  as  it  can.  I fear,  too,  that  my  future  Letters 
will  be  a long  time  reaching  you — the  distances  will  be  vast,  and  the 
opportunities  few.  Continue  to  write  to  Auckland,  care  of  Bank  of 
New  Zealand.  It  will  take  me  two  weeks  to  get  there  from  Hono- 
lulu. I hope  the  neighbors  are  all  well.  Kind  wishes  to  them. 
How  is  our  neighbor,  Mr.  Bell?  Send  him  the  same.  I hope  Taylor 
is  progressing  to  his  satisfaction  with  his  improvements.  I hope  all 
are  well  in  Alexandria — and  don’t  forget  Cousin  Mary. 

With  tenderest  love  for  all, 

F. 


[No.  9.] 

On  Steamship  Alameda, 

At  Honolulu,  Hawaiian  Islands, 

Wednesday,  January  22,  1890. 

My  Dear  Mary, — 

Letter  No.  8,  to  your  Mother,  was  completed  yesterday,  and  mailed 
to-day  in  Honolulu  to  your  Uncle  Taylor. 

The  names  of  Honolulu  and  the  Hawaiian  Islands  will,  I am  sure, 
recall  to  your  mind  the  delightful  experiences  of  my  First  Tour. 

The  Vessel,  during  yesterday  and  last  night,  was  slowed  up,  that 
we  might  arrive  in  Honolulu  after  daylight  to-day,  and  allow  the 


94 


LETTER  NO.  9. 


passengers  to  witness  the  beautiful  entrance  to  the  Capital  of  the 
Summer  Isles.  The  kind  forethought  was  fully  realized,  and  the 
weather  and  the  water  helped  all  they  could. 

Looking  from  my  State-room  window,  about  the  break  of  day,  I 
sighted  the  Island  of  Molokai  on  the  South.  I was  soon  out  and 
upon  Deck,  and  in  the  balmy  atmosphere  renewed  my  acquaintance 
of  eight  years  ago.  We  steamed  some  distance  off  along  its  Northern 
Shore, — it  lies  with  its  full  length  due  East  and  West — and  remem- 
bered how  it  is  the  Lepers’  Home  and  doom.  Since  I was  here,  good 
Father  Danden,  who  went  there  to  live  in  behalf  of  the  poor  creatures, 
has  paid  in  death  the  penalty  of  his  devotion ; and,  now,  Molokai,  for 
fifteen  years  the  scene  of  his  life-sacrificing  labors,  will  be  forever 
honored  as  his  Tomb. 

Before  we  had  quite  run  the  length  of  Molokai  to  its  Westward 
end,  Oahu  appeared  on  our  right,  with  its  Volcanic  Mountains  seamed 
and  gulched;  upon  the  narrow  Shore,  a rim  of  Settlements  and  vege- 
tation, the  Cocoanut  trees  especially  marking  its  Tropic  character  : — 
then  the  fine,  clean-cut  outline  of  Diamond-Head  projecting  into  the 
Ocean,  without  a sign  upon  its  bald  height  and  sides  of  any  growth : — 
rounding  which,  five  miles  or  thereabouts  of  lovely  stretch  of  shore, 
adorned  with  villas  peeping  out  of  Tropic  wealth,  along  whose  front 
the  waves  rolled  in,  like  racers,  breaking  their  billows  into  white  caps 
joyously: — ending  this  striking  Panorama,  Honolulu  quietly  reposes, 
hid  away  in  leaves  and  flowers — Punch  Bowl,  the  crater  of  an  extinct 
volcano,  dominating  it  by  land  with  its  huge  proportions ; its  Harbor 
on  the  front  alive  with  the  Ships  of  many  nationalities.  These  things 
make  a scene  hard  any  where  on  the  globe  to  rival,  and  the  memories 
of  my  fonner  visit  came  to  me,  when  I was  fresher  with  travel-enthu- 
siasm, and  the  Present  and  the  Past  blended  into  a picture  filled  with 
exceeding  beauty. 

When  we  were  tied  up  at  the  Landing,  the  dispersion  of  many  of 
my  new-made  friends  began.  Thirty-two  passengers  left  us  here; 
some  are  citizens  of  the  Islands,  x’eturning  home;  some  are  voyageurs 
like  myself,  simply  come  to  see  ; some  coming  for  health — some  for 
rest,  out  of  the  maelstrom  of  our  fierce  Materialism.  I believe  by 
this  time  I knew  them  every  one,  and  had  had  pleasant  words  with 
them  on  the  Ship.  My  Friends,  Judge  and  Mrs.  Deady,  and  I here 
parted — before  we  did  so,  she  sent  to  my  Room  a number  of  fine  Los 
Angeles  Oranges ; she  said  a friend  gave  them  a box  in  San  Fran- 
cisco, and  she  wanted  me  help  enjoy  them. 


HONOLULU. 


95 


I think  I mentioned  in  my  last,  that  Mr,  B.  F.  Dillingham,  of 
Honolulu,  a passenger  with  us,  is  constructing  a Railway  from  Hono- 
lulu Westward — with  which  he  proposes  to  girdle  the  Island  of 
Oahu — thereby  developing  rich  Rice  and  Sugar  Lands.  Fifteen 
miles  of  this  Road  is  now  completed,  and  he  proposed  to  run  a special 
train  its  entire  length  and  back,  and  invited  some  of  us  to  enjoy  it. 
He  fixed  the  hour  at  one  o’clock  p.  m. ; and  inasmuch  as  the  Steamer 
will  be  here  all  day,  we  determined  to  accept. 

Before  that  hour,  having  time,  I determined  to  visit  some  of  my 
old  friends  who.  had  been  kind  to  me  when  here  before  and  shown 
me  hospitalities.  I went  first  to  call  upon  Mr.  Bishop,  who  enter- 
tained me,  you  remember,  several  times.  His  wife,  who  was  of  the 
Royal  Family,  has  since  died.  Mr.  Bishop  is  still  a Banker,  and  is 
now  probably  the  wealthiest  man  on  the  Islands — worth,  it  is  said, 
six  or  eight  millions.  His  wife  left  her  immense  estates  to  him  for 
life,  and  then  for  the  benefit  of  Schools  for  the  natives. 


[You  will  recall  my  deeply  interesting  visit  to  the  Sandwich 
Islands  on  my  First  Tour,  and  the  cordial  and  kind  attentions  and 
hospitalities  I received  from  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Bishop  during  my  stay 
in  Honolulu.  A year  or  two  after,  I heard  of  the  death  of  Mrs. 
Bishop,  and  wrote,  tendering  my  sympathy,  to  which  he  responded, 
enclosing  an  account  of  the  Funeral  Ceremonies  granted  to  her  as  one 
of  Royal  Blood. 

These  Letters  and  this  Account  I desire  to  preserve  as  part  of 
my  recollections  of  the  famous  Islands,  not  only  keeping  alive  ray 
experiences  there,  but  adding  to  their  interest  by  the  preservation  of 
the  knowledge  of  some  of  their  customs  : and  of  the  memory  of  one 
of  their  most  graceful  and  attractive  women,  at  whose  hands  I received 
many  courtesies. 


Hon.  Charles  R.  Bishoi^, 


WiNCHESTEK,  VIRGINIA,  U.  S.  A., 

November  18,  1884. 


My  Dear  Mr.  Bishop, — I have  just  read  in  the  Daily  Papers  the 
news  of  your  great  affliction,  and  I am  impelled  by  . my  profound 
sympathy  to  send  you  these  lines.  I know  you  will  not  regard  it  as 


96 


LETTER  NO.  9. 


an  intrusion  upon  your  sacred  sorrow,  corning  from  one  whose  acquaint- 
ance with  you  both  was  so  brief.  Yet,  brief  as  it  was,  few  incidents  in 
my  life  have  made  upon  me  so  pleasing  and  lasting  an  impression. 

I have  not  forgotten  and  shall  not  forget  your  kind  and  hospitable 
attention  during  my  short  visit  to  the  Hawaiian  Islands.  Nor  shall 
I forget  the  hours  at  your  beautiful  and  charming  home,  with  all  the 
memories  of  which  is  associated  the  presence  of  her  whom  you  so 
deeply  mourn.  Indeed,  I can  hardly  realize  what  that  home  must 
be  to  you  without  her  company,  for  I never  met  with  one  whose 
gentle,  lovely  and  refined  nature  impressed  me  more. 

I have  been  much  of  a traveller  since  I saw  you, — having  visited 
the  most  of  Europe,  and  expected  to  have  spent  the  present  Winter 
and  coming  Spring  in  the  Countries  around  the  Mediterranean  ; but 
the  Cholera  deterred  me. 

You  don’t  know  what  pleasure  it  would  give  me  to  have  you  as 
my  guest  here  at  my  home  in  the  Valley  of  Virginia.  I cannot  show 
you  the  wonders  of  your  marvellous  Islands,  but  I can  show  you  a 
Country,  in  Spring,  Summer,  and  Autumn,  surpassed  by  few  in  all 
that  goes  to  make  up  the  attraction  and  comfort  of  a home.  You 
will,  doubtless,  visit  this  section  of  the  United  States  soon — when 
you  do,  be  sure  to  come  and  see  me. 

Give  my  high  regards  and  kind  remembrances  to  the  King,  with 
my  heartiest  good  wishes  for  the  prosperity  of  himself  and  his  King- 
dom. 

Believe  me  to  be, 

Most  truly  yours. 

Eked.  W.  M.  Holliday. 

To  this  I received  the  following  response. 

Honolulu,  December  12,  1884. 

My  Dear  Governor  Holliday, — 

Your  good  Letter  comes  like  a beautiful  Light  to  one  wandering 
in  a dark  wilderness,  and  is  very  welcome.  Only  they  who  have 
suffered  can  fully  sympathize  with  those  under  similar  aflO^iction. 

I am  glad  to  have  had  the  pleasure  of  making  your  acquaintance, 
and  very  glad  that  you  met  my  Dear  Wife  at  our  Home.  The  fact 
that  so  many  worthy  and  highly  cultivated  people,  capable  of  appre- 


FUNERAL  OF  MBS.  O.  B.  BISHOP. 


97 


dating  real  nobility  of  character  and  gentleness  of  heart  and  manner, 
knew  and  loved  the  one  whom  I loved  so  much,  is  a source  of  great 
satisfaction  and  comfort  to  me.  As  her  mind  and  heart  were  large 
enough  to  take  in  the  wise  and  good  of  all  lands,  so  truly  is  she 
mourned  by  many  in  Foreign  Countries  as  well  as  by  her  own  People, 
in  these  Islands  of  her  Nativity.  I thank  you  warmly,  my  Dear 
Governor,  for  your  delicate  and  kind  expressions  of  admiration  for 
the  departed  one,  and  of  sympathy  with  me. 

I trust  that  your  Journeyings  have  been  fortunate  and  agreeable 
in  the  past,  and  will  be  in  the  future,  and  I assure  you  if  I ever  find 
it  practicable  to  visit  your  State,  I shall,  if  possible,  have  the  pleasure 
of  accepting  your  friendly  Invitation  to  visit  you  at  your  Home. 

My  hope  and  plans  have  been  so  sadly  and  suddenly  changed,  and 
I have  so  much  less  to  live  for,  than  I had  a few  months  ago,  that  I 
am  confused  and  unsettled,  and  cannot  yet  say  what  I may  do.  I 
pray,  that  I may  be  led  to  do  what  is  right  and  best  for  others  as 
well  as  for  myself. 

Your  polite  Message  to  the  King  shall  be  conveyed  to  him. 

I remain  very  truly  yours, 

Charles  R.  Bishop. 

To  Governor  Fred.  W.  M.  Holliday, 

Winchester,  Virginia. 

\_Gazette,  November  6.] 

THE  FUNERAL  OF  THE  LATE  HON.  MRS.  C.  R.  BISHOP. 

THE  PROCESSION,  INCIDENTS,  &c. 

The  Watch  o’er  the  Death. 

For  fifteen  days  and  nights  the  black  kahilis  have  been  waved 
over  the  coffin  of  the  late  Hon.  Mrs.  Bishop.  Most  sad  has  the  time 
been  in  the  house  of  mourning.  Parties  of  sombre-clad  men,  wdth 
a captain  in  charge,  have  watched  in  turns,  two  hours  for  each  party, 
making  in  all  a force  of  eighty-four  men.  Very  striking  has  been 
the  solemn  change  as  the  relief  came  in.  Behind  each  kahili  bearer 
would  stand  his  relief,  at  a given  signal,  the  kahili  was  passed  from 
hand  to  hand ; the  fresh  bearers  depressed  their  kahilis,  for  a moment, 
while  the  tired  guard  formed  in  line,  and  bowed  in  reverence  to  the 
7 


98 


LETTER  NO.  9. 


remains,  and  then  the  monotonous  waving  was  resumed  and  continued 
without  ceasing  till  the  next  relief.  A moving  sight  to  see  in  the  dim 
light  of  the  fading  day,  fit  emblem  of  our  own  fading  lives. 

The  wail  of  the  native  mourners  has  sounded  unceasingly,  the 
melancholy  sound  rising  and  falling  in  rhythmic  cadence.  Friendly 
hands  have  brought  their  tribute  of  flowers,  and  around  the  coffin  all 
the  exquisite  blossoms  of  these  Tropic  Isles  have  been  lovingly  laid. 
Magnificent  large  kahilis  have  adorned  the  chamber  of  the  dead, 
many  of  them  made  of  feathers  that  have  been  stored  away  for  years. 
Most  conspicuous  of  these  were  those  made  of  the  glossy  black 
plumage  of  the  oo  bird,  from  under  whose  wing  come  the  two  yellow 
feathers  which  are  used  for  the  Royal  cloak.  These  plumes,  emblems 
of  Hawaii’s  Royalty,  have  added  wonderfully  to  the  solemnity  of  the 
surroundings,  their  very  brightness  coming  into  such  strong  contrast 
with  the  sombre  I’oom,  the  })ure  white  flowers,  and  the  almost  shadowy 
figures  of  the  black-robed  mourners.  And  so  for  fifteen  days  the 
dead  has  been  watched.  The  very  skies  have  seemed  to  mourn  the 
beloved  chietess,  and  hardly  a ray  of  sunshine  has  come  forth.  On 
Sunday,  the  day  on  which  the  last  honors  were  to  be  paid  to  her  who 
has  gone,  the  brilliant  Tropic  Sun  came  forth  in  all  its  radiance, 
giving,  as  it  were,  a last  smile  upon  that  daughter  of  the  laud,  who, 
when  away  in  foreign  climes,  so  fondly  yearned  for  its  brilliant 
beams. 

Mourning. 

Sunday,  November  2d,  all  those  who  loved,  all  those  who  not 
knowing  her  personally  could  not  love,  but  respected  Mrs.  Bishop, 
came  together  to  testify  by  their  presence  to  the  worth  of  a truly 
good  woman.  How  heartfelt  the  grief  was,  how  thoroughly  the  one 
who  had  passed  away  was  appreciated  by  all,  can  only  be  realized  by 
those  who  were  present  at  the  ceremony.  It  Avas  spontaneous,  it  came 
from  the  strong  man  and  from  the  Aveak  woman,  and  it  testified  that 
not  only  one  of  the  best  of  HaAvaiians,  but  one  of  the  best  of  women 
had  gone  to  her  last  rest. 

Assembling. 

Long  before  the  appointed  hour,  1.30  p.  m.,  the  many  mourners 
had  begun  to  assemble.  The  rooms  were  well  arranged,  and  as  the 
many  friends  came  in  they  were  conducted  to  their  seats.  On  the 
right  hand  of  the  coffin  sat  the  various  representatives  of  the  foreign 


FUNERAL  OF  MRS.  C.  R.  BISHOP. 


99 


powers,  and  the  Consuls,  in  many  cases  with  their  wives ; to  the  left 
were  the  members  of  the  Privy  Council  and  the  Nobles  of  the  King- 
dom ; at  the  foot  of  the  coffin  were  ranged  many  personal  friends  and 
the  two  choirs.  At  the  head,  space  was  left  for  the  chief  mourners  ; 
behind  them  sat  the  King  and  Queen,  the  Princesses  Liliuokalani 
and  Likelike,  the  Hons.  John  O.  Dominis  and  Cleghorn.  Behind 
these  again  were  the  Ministers,  the  Hon.  Godfrey  Ehodes,  the  Presi- 
dent of  the  House  of  Representatives,  the  members  of  the  staffs  of 
His  Majesty  and  the  Governor  of  Oahu,  and  a number  of  officials. 

The  Coffin. 

The  space  left  in  the  centre  of  the  room  was  occupied  by  the  coffin. 
This  was  an  exquisite  piece  of  workmanship,  composed  entirely  of 
two  native  woods,  the  light  koa  and  the  dark  kou.  Not  a trace  of 
metal  was  to  be  seen  on  the  finely  polished  surface,  the  very  handles 
being  fashioned  of  mournful  kou.  A silver  plate  of  exquisite  work- 
manship bore  the  following  inscription  : 

The  Honorable 
Bernice  Pauahi  Bishop, 
daughter  of  the 
Chiefs  A.  Paki  and  L.  Konia, 
and  Wife  of  the  Honorable 
Charles  E.  Bishop. 

Born  December  19th,  1831, 

Died  October  lQ>th,  1884. 

The  plate  was  ornamented  with  scroll  work  and  delicate  fern 
leaves,  a beautiful  design.  Over  the  coffin  was  spread  the  Royal 
pall,  a mass  of  dark  velvet  and  white  silk,  embroidered  with  the 
Royal  coat-of-arms,  the  last  cloak  which  has  enveloped  the  remains 
of  all  Hawaii’s  noblest  and  best.  Around  were  placed  numerous 
tables,  bearing  floral  emblems,  crosses,  wreaths,  and  tributes  which 
had  been  made  by  those  who  had  sincerely  mourned  the  deceased ; 
rising  from  among  these  were  massive  silver  candelabra.  On  either 
side  stood  four  kahili  bearers,  not  now  waving  the  solemn  black 
feathers,  but  bearing  upright  brilliant  hued  kahilis,  showing  the  rank 
of  the  deceased.  At  the  head  of  the  coffin  was  placed  the  kahili  of 
Mrs.  Bishop,  made  of  pure  white  feathers,  surmounted  by  three  balls 
of  white  satin.  Upon  the  coffin  were  laid  a mass  of  flowers  and  ferns, 
a crown  of  yellow  chrysanthemums  and  roses,  pillows  and  cushions  of 


100 


LETTER  NO.  9. 


heliotrope,  white  roses,  plumeria  and  stephanotis,  and  several  crosses 
feathery  with  the  maiden  hair  fern. 

The  t^erviee. 

Exactly  at  half-past  one  the*  solemn  tones  of  the  organ  broke  on 
the  ear,  with  a series  of  minor  chords  improvised  by  Mr.  Wray  Tay- 
lor. The  Hon.  C.  R.  Bishop,  Queen  Emma,  Mrs.  W.  F.  Allen,  the 
chief  mourners  with  their  attendants,  entered  the  room.  The  chords 
died  away  and  changed  to  the  mournful  strains  of  a funeral  chant, 
sung  by  the  choir  of  Kawaiahao  church.  The  words  were  “ Ina  e 
make  ke  kanaka,  e ola  hou  anei  oiaf”  (If  a man  die,  shall  he  live 
again?)  Job  xiv.  14.  The  voices  of  that  choir  carried  a thrill  that  no 
heart  could  withstand.  These  were  the  people  who  had  worshipped 
where  Mrs.  Bishop  had  worshipped,  and  the  peculiarly  mournful 
cadence  of  the  Hawaiian  voice  suited  both  the  words  and  the  music. 
Rev.  H.  PI.  Parker,  Pastor  of  Kawaiahao  church,  the  officiating 
clergyman,  made  the  prayer  and  delivered  a short  addx'ess  in  native. 
A quartette  from  the  choir  of  the  Fort  Street  church,  consisting  of 
Mrs.  Hanford,  Mrs.  A.  F.  Judd,  Miss  Lewis,  Mrs.  E.  Damon,  and 
Messrs.  W.  W.  Hall,  J.  Waterhouse,  J.  H.  Paty,  and  Charles  Cooke, 
accompanied  on  the  organ  by  Miss  Carrie  Castle,  sang  the  hymn 
the  “Homeland.”  After  this,  Mr.  Parker  delivered  an  impressive 
prayer  in  English,  and  the  religious  ceremonies  at  the  house  were 
concluded. 

“ The  Saddest  and  Sacredest  Moment.” 

The  most  heartrending  part  of  all  funeral  ceremonies  had  now  to 
be  gone  through,  the  coffin  was  to  be  removed.  Reverently  were  the 
beautiful  decorations  laid  aside,  and  the  coffin,  resting  on  a bier  of 
wheels,  was  slowly  drawn  from  its  temporary  resting  place.  As  it 
began  to  move,  the  melancholy  “ auwe  e ” rose  in  the  air.  The  coffin 
passed  through  the  hall ; it  began  to  descend  to  the  hearse ; sixty 
kahilis  were  bent  in  reverence  to  the  earthly  remains  of  the  departed 
chiefess ; the  melancholy  wail  of  the  Hawaiian,  the  smothered  sob  of 
the  foreigner  was  heard  on  the  balmy  tropic  air,  and  the  body  of  the 
last  of  the  Kamehamehas  glided  from  the  home  which,  when  in  life, 
it  had  been  her  desire  to  beautify.  Since  the  day  that  the  little 
Prince  of  Hawaii,  the  hope  of  Hawaii,  was  taken  to  his  rest,  there 
never  has  been  such  genuine  grief  shown  by  the  natives.  It  was  a 


FUNERAL  OF  MRS.  C.  R.  BISHOP. 


101 


national  mourning.  It  will  be  long  before  that  mournful  cry,  that 
spontaneous  sob,  will  die  out  of  the  memory  of  the  ears  that  heard  it ! 
As  the  coffin  touched  the  hearse,  the  sloped  kahilis  slowly  rose,  and 
after  a short  delay,  the  melancholy  cortege  passed  out  of  the  gates, 
which  only  a short  while  before  had  closed,  upon  the  sister  of  the 
Kamehamehas,  and  the  last  of  a noble  race  was  born  slowly  and  rever- 
ently to  her  tomb. 

Order  of  Procession. 

Undertaker  Williams. 

Platoon  of  Police  (24  men). 

Marshal  of  the  Kingdom  and  Aides. 

Band  of  the  Reformatory  School. 

Engineers  of  the  Honolulu  Fire  Department. 

Honolulu  Engine  Co.  No.  1,  Foreman  Fassett. 

Mechanic  Engine  Co.  No.  2,  Foreman  Hustace. 

Hawaii  Engine  Co.  No.  4,  Foreman  Sauza. 

Pacific  Hose  Co.  No.  1,  Foreman  Rasemann. 

China  Engine  Co.  No.  5,  Foreman  Ahphat. 

Harmony  Lodge,  I.  O.  O.  F. 

Excelsior  Lodge,  I.  O.  O.  F. 

Polynesia  Encampment,  I.  O.  O.  F. 

Children  of  Native  Sunday  Schools. 

Male  Members  Native  Churches 
Female  Members  Native  Churches. 

Children  of  Retainers. 

His  Excellency  the  Governor  of  Oahu  and  Aides. 

The  Royal  Hawaiian  Band. 

Mamalahoa  Guard,  Captain  Frank  Gerome  (32  men). 

King’s  Own,  Captain  S.  Nowlein  (32  men). 

Prince’s  Own,  Captain  Kaaha  (32  men). 

Household  Troops,  Major  Hoapili  (68  men). 

Servants  of  Deceased. 

Anglican  Church  Ministers, 

Revs.  Wallace  and  Swan. 

Congregational  Church  Ministers, 

Revs.  Damon,  Forbes,  and  Hyde. 

Officiating  Clergyman,  Rev.  H.  H.  Parker. 

Hon.  John  Cummins,  Chief  Marshal. 


102 


LETTER  NO.  9. 


Carriages  of  Chief  Mourners,  Containing 
Her  Majesty  Queen  Dowager  Emma  and  Hon.  C.  E.  Bishop. 

H.  E.  H.  Princess  Lilioukalani  and  Mrs.  W.  F.  Allen. 

Carriage  of  His  Majesty. 

H.  E.  H.  Princess  Likelike  and  Daughter. 

Prince  A.  K.  Kunuiakea  and  Lady. 

The  Chancellor  of  the  Kingdom. 

His  Majesty’s  Ministers. 

Diplomatic  and  Consular  Corps. 

Government  Officers. 

General  Public. 

Detachment  of  Cavalry. 

The  procession,  in  the  order  above  juentioned,  proceeded  along  the 
route  which  had  only  a short  time  before  been  gone  over  by  the 
melancholy  train  that  had  followed  the  remains  of  Princess  Ruth  to 
the  grave,  viz. : Emma  to  Beretania  to  Nuuanu  streets,  and  along 
the  avenue  to  the  Mausoleum.  No  untoward  incident  occurred  to 
mar  the  solemnity  of  the  occasion,  notwithstanding  the  large  number 
of  people  that  joined  in  the  procession,  and  that  lined  the  roads  from 
dwelling  to  tomb,  as  spectators.  Over  900  people  were  in  line, 
exclusive  of  the  school  children,  and  75  carriages.  The  procession 
took  23  minutes  to  pass  a given  point,  and  was  over  half  a mile  in 
length. 

And  now  the  gates  of  the  Mausoleum  were  reached.  Slowly  they 
opened  to  admit  the  head  of  the  column,  and  its  vai’ious  members 
filed  past,  taking  up  a position  around  the  mortuary  building.  Once 
more  the  wailing  broke  forth,  redoubled  in  its  energy,  an  ear-piercing, 
heart-breaking  cry ; a last  wail  for  her  who  was  a real  hope  to 
Hawaiian  womanhood.  And  thus,  amid  the  solemn  strains  of  the 
Dead  March  in  Saul,  amid  the  lamentations  of  the  women,  did  all 
that  was  earthly  of  Mrs.  Bishop  pass  into  the  tomb  of  the  Kameha- 
mehas. 

Wilkin  the  Mausoleum. 

Within  all  was  gloom,  into  that  last  home  of  Hawaii’s  illustrious 
dead  the  light  but  filters  through  the  colored  glass,  casting  weird 
shadows  on  the  pavement,  and  on  the  black  palled  coffins  of  so  many 
chiefs  and  chiefesses.  An  organ  stood  in  the  ante-chamber,  bearing 
a fforal  cross.  In  the  narrow  space  within  the  mausoleum,  seats  had 
been  arranged  for  those  most  nearly  connected  with  the  deceased,  and 
also  for  the  chief  government  officials  and  foreign  consuls.  When 


FUNERAL  OF  MBS.  C.  B.  BISHOP. 


103 


the  coffin  had  been  placed  by  the  side  of  that  of  the  Princess  Ruth 
Keelikolani,  the  Rev.  H,  H.  Parker  resumed  his  ministrations.  A 
hush  fell  upon  those  present,  deeper  than  had  been  the  silence  before, 
as  the  clear  ringing  tones  of  one  of  Hawaii’s  purest  sons  said  the 
simple  prayer  over  the  body  of  one  who  had  labored  with  him,  for 
the  amelioration  of  the  native  race,  hand  in  hand.  Then  once  more 
the  Kawaiahao  choir  broke  forth  into  song:  “ E lesu  ka  mohai  no’u” 
(Rock  of  Ages),  was  sung  by  breaking  hearts.  Those  who  heard 
those  few  people  sing,  would  know  that  it  was  no  lip  service  they 
were  giving,  that  it  was  not  in  the  beauty  of  their  harmonies  that 
they  took  a pride,  but  that  it  was  a heart  service  offered  to  one  whom 
they  truly  loved. 

Laid  in  the  tomb  is  the  best  of  Hawaii’s  womanhood,  and  Hawaii 
may  well  mourn  its  loss,  and  does  mourn  it  thoroughly.  We  who 
survive  may  truly  say,  in  Wordsworth’s  words:  The  good  die 

FIRST. 

IN  MEMORIAM  BERNICE  PAUAHI  BISHOP, 

THE  LAST  OF  HER  RACE. 

Tlie  banners  now  are  drooping  half-mast  high, 

The  bells  are  swinging  slow  and  solemnly  ! 

Once  more,  alas  ! along  the  well-known  road, 

Move  the  white  horses  with  their  mournful  load. 

While  muffled  drum  and  tall  Kahilis  say, 

A chiefess  passes  to  her  home  to-day, 

That  home,  where  rest  in  sorrowful  decay, 

Tire  chiefs  who  ruled  Hawaii’s  earlier  day. 

The  gloomy  portals  open  once  again. 

And  through  them  pass  the  melancholy  train. 

Who,  with  sad  hearts  and  many  a bitter  tear. 

See  the  dead  chiefess  placed  upon  her  bier. 

Near  thee,  their  daughter,  after  life’s  brief  close, 

Konia  and  Paki  peacefully  repose  1 

Yes:  Death  which  sever’d  ye,  unites  once  more. 

Ye  meet  again  upon  the  heavenly  shore  ! 

So  the  sad  rite  is  o’er,  and  all  is  done. 

The  portals  close — we  leave  thee  there  alone. 

Yet  not  forgotten  at  the  lonely  hearth  I 
Nor  unremembered  in  our  hours  of  mirth  ! 


104 


LETTER  NO.  9. 


E’en  lands  long  distant  from  thy  place  of  birth, 

Had  learned  to  know  thee  and  to  prize  thy  worth, 

And  England’s  Queen  a graceful  welcome  gave, 

To  far  Hawaii’s  wanderer  o’er  the  wave  ! 

Long  in  our  mem’ry  will  thy  virtues  live ! 

Long  in  our  breasts  the  thought  of  thee  survive ! 

Ill  can  we  spare  thee,  none  can  take  thy  place. 

Thou  last  and  noblest  of  a noble  race  ! W.] 


I found  him  at  his  Banking  House,  and  received  a most  cordial 
welcome ; and  we  had  much  talk.  I told  him  I wanted  to  call  to 
see  Colonel  Macfarlane,  and  also  the  King,  in  recognition  of  their 
hospitalities  and  courtesies  on  my  former  visit.  He  said  Colonel  M. 
was  the  King’s  Chamberlain,  and  would,  he  was  sure,  accompany  me. 
Having  no  time  to  lose,  I went  with  Mr.  Bishop  at  once  to  Colonel 
Macfarlane’s  store.  He  was  absent ; and  I told  his  younger  Brother 
to  let  him  know  my  wishes,  and  advise  me  upon  my  return  from  the 
Railway  Excursion. 

Desiring  to  see  Honolulu,  I walked  to  the  Station,  stopping  on 
the  way  to  get  a piece  for  the  Silver  Set.  Quite  a number  of  us 
convened  at  the  Station  at  the  appointed  hour,  and  our  little  jaunt 
was  most  enjoyable.  It  is  a narrow  gauge  Road  and  well  built,  with 
excellent  cars.  It  runs  Westward,  around  Pearl  Harbor,  and  through 
many  admirable  Rice  Paddies  and  Fish  Ponds — both  said  to  be 
profitable.  Judge  and  Mrs.  Deady  were  along,  and  also  Mr.  God- 
frey Brown,  the  late  Minister  of  Foreign  Affairs  of  the  Hawaiian 
Government,  of  whom  I have  hitherto  spoken,  and  who  now  gave 
us  much  information.  By  far  the  most  interesting  thing  in  connec- 
tion with  this  ride  was  the  manner  in  which  the  water  is  obtained  to 
irrigate  the  soil,  without  which  it  would  be  worthless.  The  Chief 
Engineer  of  the  Road,  Mr.  Allandt,  was  with  us,  and  gave  us  an 
account  of  its  quantity  and  flow.  It  comes  out  of  the  base  of  the 
hills  and  mountains,  often  in  huge  volume;  and  at  a Rice  Mill,  where 
we  stopped,  owned  by  a Chinaman,  Mr.  A.  showed  us  the  stream, 
gushing  out  in  sufficient  quantity,  he  said,  to  supply  San  Francisco’s 
fullest  wants,  and  never  failing.  This  is  most  remarkable,  for  the 
Island  of  Oahu  is  small  and  its  mountains  are  not  high  or  snow  clad. 
Where  is  this  immense  store  house  of  water?  Volcanic  countries 


HONOLULU— LETTER  FROM  MATHEW  P.  DEADY.  105 


must  have  formations  of  which  we  have  much  to  learn.  The  water 
is  beautiful  and  pure,  and  if  the  Engineer  be  correct,  that  the  supply 
is  unfailing,  and  belongs  to  the  other  Islands  as  it  does  to  Oahu,  who 
can  predict  the  outcome  in  wealth  of  this  Little  Kingdom  by  the 
cultivation  of  its  soil  ? 

On  our  return,  I bade  my  Friends,  Judge  and  Mrs.  Deady,  Good 
Bye ! they  having  taken  quarters  at  the  Hawaiian  Hotel.  I told 
them  when  I got  home  I would  write  and  let  them  know  how  my 
time  and  travel  tided;  and  they  must  reply  and  inform  me,  I sincerely 
hoped,  how  the  Judge  had  found  a complete  restorer  to  his  tired 
energies.  I regret  greatly  to  part  from,  and  will  miss  them — indeed, 
there  is  no  one  left  upon  the  Ship  who  can,  with  me,  take  their  place. 
And,  now,  the  whole  thirty-two  who  constituted  a part  of  our  little 
household  are  gone — most  of  us  never  to  meet  again.  Thus  it  is  on 
Travel — to  be  repeated  at  every  stage — companions  made  and  lost. 


[I  must  here  insert  more  about  my  Friend  Judge  Deady.  The 
remarks  and  Letters  will  be  interesting  in  perpetuating  with  you  and 
me  the  memory  of  a most  interesting  man. 

I fulfilled  my  promise,  and  wrote  to  him  when  I arrived  at  Home, 
on  the  termination  of  the  Tour  a running  account  of  my  experiences 
after  we  parted,  and  requesting  a reply,  giving  the  story  of  his. 

I received  the  following  answer. 


Portland,  Oregon,  September  3,  1890. 
My  Dear  Governor  Holliday, — 

Your  welcome  favor  of  the  24th  ult.  came  to  hand  to-day.  I was 
expecting  to  hear  from  you,  as  I remember  you  expected  to  return 
Home  in  August. 

And  what  a journey  you  have  made  since  we  parted  at  Honolulu ! 
We  left  there  early  in  Mai’ch,  and  after  staying  a few  days  in  San 
Francisco,  where  I saw  our  Friend  Judge  Thornton,  we  got  Home 
on  the  28th  of  the  month. 

I was  not  able  to  go  to  the  Volcano.  I came  Home  rested,  but 
not  well ; have  been  improving  since.  We  had  an  enjoyable  time. 


106 


LETTER  EO.  9. 


however,  in  Honolulu,  and  were  very  kindly  treated.  The  Chief 
Justice  gave  me  a Dinner,  just  before  I left. 

I have  been  pretty  steadily  at  work  since  I returned,  and  send  you 
with  this  a Copy  of  one  of  the  Opinions  I have  written.  I am  going 
to  collect  Copies  of  some  Addresses  and  Lectures  of  mine,  and  send 
you  in  a few  days,  which  I hope  you  will  find  time  to  look  over. 

Mrs.  Deady  and  I go  to  the  Seaside,  twenty  miles  below  the  mouth 
of  the  Columbia,  in  a few  days  to  spend  our  vacation.  She  was  very 
glad  to  hear  of  your  safe  return,  as  was,  also,  myself.  She  still  says, 
and  I do  not  dissent,  “That  the  world  would  be  better  if  there  were 
more  men  in  it  like  Governor  Holliday.’’ 

We  are  looking  forward  to  going  East — if  Chicago  can  be  called 
that — to  attend  the  Columbian  Exposition,  when  we  may  meet  and 
visit  you.  The  great  affair  ought  to  have  been  at  Washington  City, 
and  not  at  the  Pork  Emporium. 

With  kind  regards  and  good  wishes  from  both  of  us, 

I am  very  truly  yours, 

Mathew  P.  Deady. 


Portland,  Oregon,  January  13,  1891. 

My  Dear  Governor, — 

I sent  you  a day  or  two  since  a short  Biography  of  myself,  taken 
out  of  a large  work  now  being  published  by  Mr.  Bancroft,  of  which 
it  is  a part. 

I ought  to  have  answered  your  welcome  Letter  long  ago ; but  I 
have  been  both  sick  and  very  busy.  I am  better  now,  but  still  busy. 
I have  enjoyed  the  Pamphlets  you  sent  me  very  much — “The  Higher 
Education  the  Hope  of  American  Republicanism,”  delivered  before 
the  Alumni  of  the  University  of  Virginia,  and  “The  Address  of 
Welcome  at  the  Yorktown  Centennial  Celebration.”  You  ought  to 
be  in  the  Senate  of  the  United  States  from  Virginia. 

Mrs.  Deady  is  quite  well,  and  wishes  to  be  kindly  remembered 
to  you — her  ideal  man.  We  still  live  in  hopes  of  sitting  by  the 
ingle  side  in  your  Virginia  Farmhouse  and  talking  over  our  pleasant 
voyage  from  San  Francisco  to  Honolulu. 


HONOLULU— LETTER  FROM  MATHEW  P.  DEADY.  107 


Three  years  from  the  12th  of  May  next,  I will  be  at  liberty  to 
retire,  and  I will  certainly  do  so. 

The  Supreme  Court  of  the  United  States  has  got  right  at  last  over 
the  Virginia  Coupons  and  Taxes.  Well,  it  was  always  right  maybe, 
and  it  took  the  Lawyers  some  time  to  find  the  proper  remedy. 

Sincerely  yours, 

Mathew  P.  Deady. 

In  August,  1891,  I went  on  my  Seventh  Tour — visiting  France, 
Italy,  and  Egypt — returning  the  following  March,  1892.  I wrote 
just  before  my  departure  to  my  Friend,  and  on  my  return,  and 
several  Letters  passed  between  us,  which  have  been  lost  or  mislaid. 

In  October,  1892,  I received  a Letter  from  Judge  Deady  from  the 
St.  James  Hotel,  Baltimore,  stating  that  he  was  there  attending  the 
Episcopal  General  Convention  as  a Lay  Delegate,  that  Mrs.  Deady 
was  with  him,  and  that  both  greatly  desired  that  I would,  if  possible, 
run  down  and  see  them.  I,  of  course,  with  pleasure,  complied,  and 
spent  a day  and  night  at  the  same  Hotel,  in  the  enjoyment  of  their 
society. 

The  Judge  had  much  failed  in  health  and  strength  since  we  parted 
in  Honolulu.  The  strain  of  overwork  which  had  broken  his  remark- 
ably fine  constitution,  had  been  carried  so  far  that  his  evidently  once 
vigorous  native  forces  could  not  rally;  and  I felt  quite  sure  that  his  days 
on  earth  Avere  numbered.  He  yet  could  not  realize  that  the  powers 
which  had  stood  him  so  long  had  failed  beyond  hope  of  recovery. 

We  had  many  pleasant  talks,  he  and  Mrs.  Deady  and  myself. 
Sitting  together  in  the  Parlor  in  the  afternoon,  a young  gentleman 
approached,  and  inquiring  our  names,  began  a conversation  Avith  the 
Judge,  Avhich  I soon  perceived  Avas  intended  to  be  an  intervieAV ; and 
whilst  the  Judge  was  undergoing  it,  I continued  my  conversation 
with  Mrs.  Deady.  When  his  Honor  had  been  sufficiently  squeezed, 
the  young  gentleman  turned  to  me.  I told  him,  mildly,  that  he  must 
excuse  me:  I never  Avas  interviewed  in  my  life;  and,  Avithout  mean- 
ing the  slightest  discourtesy  to  him,  never  intended  to  be.  I did  not 
allow  it  when  a Public  Man ; I would  hardly  permit  it  now  that  I 
had  ceased  to  be  one,  and  become  a Private  Citizen.  If  I had  any- 
thing to  say  to  the  Public  of  sufficient  import  to  cause  me  to  think 
it  of  such  value,  that  they  desired  to  hear,  I always  did  it  with  my 


108 


LETTER  NO.  9. 


own  voice  or  over  my  own  signature.  I thought  the  custom  a bad 
one,  and  the  sooner  abolished,  the  better.  All  of  which  was  spoken 
in  the  kindest  and  most  considerate  manner,  which  the  gentlemanly 
interviewer  seemed  fully  to  appreciate. 

A few  hours  after,  the  following  appeared  in  a Daily  Paper. 

“ HOTEL  GOSSIP. 

Ex-Governor  Frederick  W.  M.  Holliday,  of  Virginia,  is  stopping 
at  the  St.  James  Hotel. 

The  distinguished  ex-Governor  came  to  Baltimore  especially  to  see 
Judge  and  Mrs.  Deady,  of  Portland,  Oregon,  who  have  been  at  the 
St.  James  for  about  ten  days. 

Governor  Holliday,  on  one  occasion,  made  a voyage  to  the  Sand- 
wich Islands  on  the  same  vessel  with  the  distinguished  Federal 
Judge  and  his  wife,  and  would  not  miss  the  opportunity  of  seeing 
them  again.  Judge  Deady  is  here  as  a lay  delegate  to  the  Episcopal 
Convention. 

Both  gentlemen  chatted  jileasantly  with  a News  reporter  this  morn- 
ing. 

“What  is  going  on  in  the  West?’’  asked  the  reporter  of  Judge 
Deady. 

“I  do  not  live  in  the  West,”  replied  the  Judge;  “the  West  is  the 
Mississippi  Valley  and  Chicago  is  the  capital.  Everything  on  the 
other  side  of  the  Rockies  is  the  Pacific  Coast,  not  the  West.” 

The  Judge  spoke  of  the  various  booming  towns  of  his  section  and 
discussed  their  relative  merits,  but  refused  to  talk  politics  further 
than  saying  that  he  believed  all  the  Pacific  Coast  States  would  be 
carried  by  the  Republicans. 

Turning  to  Ex-Governor  Holliday,  the  reporter  asked  : 

“ And  how  is  Virginia  going  this  year?” 

With  real  Virginia  courtesy,  and  with  entire  good  humor.  Gov- 
ernor Holliday  replied  : 

“My  dear  sir,  during  the  entire  period  of  my  public  career,  I never 
allowed  myself  to  be  interviewed ; and  now  that  I have  elevated 
myself  to  the  position  of  a 2irivate  citizen,  I shall  certainly  not  break 
my  rule. 

“ Whenever  I wished  to  say  anything  to  the  Public,  I said  it  over 
my  own  signature.  This  business  of  interviewing  is  a comparatively 
new  custom  and  one  I do  not  like.” 


HONOLULU. 


109 


Judge  Deady  and  Ex-Governor  Holliday  are  both  strikingly  hand- 
some men,  though  of  entirely  different  types. — Baltimore  News. 

Many  of  the  Papers  copied  the  Interview,  and  were  generally 
opposed  to  my  position.  Among  them  the  Richmond  Despatch  had 
the  following  comment. 

“interviewees  after  an  ex-governor. 

Ex-Governor  F.  W.  M.  Holliday  recently  told  a Baltimore 
reporter  that  in  all  of  his  public  career  he  had  never  allowed  him- 
self to  be  interviewed. 

This  fact,  and  the  words  in  which  the  Ex-Governor  stated  it,  were 
forthwith  published  by  the  reporter  in  the  next  issue  of  his  paper, 
and  the  Ex-Governor  cannot  say  hereafter  that  he  has  never  been 
interviewed . 

When  Governor  Holliday  was  filling  the  gubernatorial  chair  of 
the  Old  Dominion,  interviewing  was  but  little  in  vogue  here,  and 
since  that  time  he  has  been  such  a great  traveller  that  the  reporters 
never  could  catch  up  with  him.  He  has  probably  travelled  more 
in  foreign  lands  than  any  Virginian  now  living,  which  is  saying  a 
good  deal  when  we  remember  the  achievements  in  this  line  of  Dr. 
Hoge,  T.  William  Pemberton,  Esq.,  Coroner  Taylor,  and  Willie 
Coulling,  of  this  city.  But  if  he  expects  to  keep  out  of  the  hands 
of  the  interviewers  he  will  have  to  keep  going  all  the  time,  so  that 
the  reporters  will  never  be  able  to  overtake  or  waylay  him,  as  this 
American  device  for  producing  interesting  reading  matter  has  been 
more  or  less  adopted  in  the  United  Kingdom  and  on  the  Continent, 
and  is  even  said  to  be  somewhat  in  use  in  China. 

However,  it  is  a pity  that  the  Ex-Governor  is  so  much  disinclined 
to  encourage  the  interviewers,  for  he  is  a keen  observer,  and  a bright 
conversationalist,  and  if  he  would  “talk  for  publication”  could  enter- 
tain a large  circle  of  friends  and  admirers  in  this  and  other  States.” 

I was  anxious  that  my  Friends  should  go  to  Winchester  with  me 
and  pay  me  a visit.  But  they  were  afraid  to  undertake  it — so  far 
from  Home  and  the  Winter  approaching.  The  next  morning,  we 
bade  each  other  Farewell  ! I felt,  as  far  as  the  Judge  was  concerned, 
for  the  last  time.  He  promised  to  write  upon  his  arrival  in  Port- 
land, and  tell  me  how  he  stood  the  long  Journey. 


110 


LETTER  NO.  9. 


Not  hearing,  in  Avhat  I thought  a reasonable  time,  I wrote  him, 
and  received  the  following  response. 

Portland,  Oregon,  December  1,  1892. 

My  Dear  Governor, — 

Your  kind  favor  of  the  24th  ult.  came  to  hand  this  morning.  Not 
a day  has  passed  since  we  reached  Horae,  but  I have  thought  of  you 
and  my  promise  to  write.  But  in  tliese  latter  days  I write  so  poorly, 
and  the  task  is  so  irksome  to  me,  that  I put  it  off. 

I can  see  you,  now,  as  you  stood  on  the  steps  of  the  St.  James 
and  waved  me  Good  Bye  ! in  your  genial  and  whole-souled  man- 
ner, and  I said  Good  Bye ! to  you  for  the  last  time,  I fear, 
unless  you  will  take  Oregon  in  your  next  ramble,  and  spend  a 
week  or  two  with  us.  I know  Mrs.  Deady  would  delight  to  do 
you  honor.  By  the  way,  she  did  not  forget  to  remind  me  to  write, 
as  you  requested  her. 

We  got  to  Washington  in  good  style  and  put  up  at  Wormley’s. 
We  had  a good  time  there; — that  is,  Mrs.  Deady  had.  My  want  of 
locomotion  impaired  the  pleasure  of  the  trip  for  me.  I dined  out 
some — at  Justice  Field’s  among  other  places. 

The  Chief  Justice  gave  an  Official  Dinner  to  the  new  Justice  of 
the  Supreme  Court,  and  was  kind  enough  to  invite  me  to  eat  with  the 
Big  Wigs.  We  stayed  in  Washington  eleven  days.  The  weather 
was  delightful  and  the  City  lovely.  We  came  Home  direct,  reaching 
Portland  on  the  26th, — -just  one  month  to-day  from  the  time  we  left. 

I don’t  think  the  trip  made  any  improvement  in  my  case.  I am 
being  treated  with  Electricity  now.  Sometimes,  I fancy,  that  it  is 
doing  me  good,  and  then  again,  not. 

And  you  think  of  going  to  Alaska.  Well,  it  is  the  easiest  thing 
to  do  in  the  world.  You  go  b}^  Rail  from  here  to  the  Sound,  and 
thence  North,  and  back  by  a comfortable  Steamer.  Alaska  is  the 
place  to  get  “ far  from  the  madding  crowd  ” — altogether  unique. 
Go,  by  all  means.  But  you  must  stop  a Aveek  or  tAvo  Avith  us,  going 
or  coming.  It  may  be  necessary  to  engage  your  Berth  a trip  ahead. 

I regret  \'ery  much  we  could  not,  or  thought  Ave  could  not,  visit 
you  it)  your  Old  Home.  Give  our  thanks  to  your  Sister  for  her  kind 
invitation,  in  case  we  had  gone. 


HONOLULU— LETTER  FROM  PAUL  R.  BEADY. 


Ill 


Yes ! the  Baltimore  News  man  did  well.  He  profited  by  the 
Lecture  you  gave ; and  he  remembered  the  difference  between  the 
“West”  and  the  “Pacific  Coast.” 

My  kind  regards,  in  which  Mrs.  Deady  cordially  joins,  I am  your 
admirer  and  friend. 


Mathew  P.  Deady. 


To  Hon.  Fred.  W.  31.  Holliday, 

Winchester,  Va. 


I wrote  again  March  15,  1893,  requesting  the  Judge  to  send  me 
an  Alaska  Excursion  Steamer’s  Time-Table  and  Prospectus.  By  the 
time  my  Letter  reached  him,  I received  the  following  Telegram  : 

PoETLAND,  Oeegon,  IlarcJi  26,  1893. 

F?'ed.  W.  M.  Holliday, 

Winchester,  Va.  : 

My  Father  died  at  7.46  this  morning,  peacefully. 

Paul  R.  Deady. 

And  a few  days  thereafter,  the  following  Letter. 

Governor  Fred.  W.  3'I.  Holliday, 

My  Dear  Sir, — I presume,  of  course,  you  received  the  Telegram 
announcing  the  Death  of  my  Father.  He  was  only  sick  about  ten 
days.  His  Death  was  the  result  of  his  old  malady — bladder  trouble. 
The  only  consolation  we  can  find  in  his  Death,  is  that  he  was  con- 
scious to  the  last  moment,  and  passed  away  without  any  suffering. 

Your  Letter  to  him  was  received  on  the  day  of  his  Death.  He 
always  enjoyed  hearing  from  you,  and  often  read  me  your  Letters. 

My  Mother  wished  me  to  write  you  and  tell  you  of  my  Father’s 
Death,  and  convey  to  you  her  kindest  remembrances.  Considering 
her  sad  loss,  she  holds  up  remarkably  well. 

My  Dear  Sir ; By  to-day’s  Mail  I send  yon  a Pamphlet,  called 
“ All  About  Alaska,”  which,  I think,  will  give  you  a great  deal  of 
information  about  that  interesting  Country. 


112 


LETTER  NO.  9. 


]\Iy  Mother  and  myself  will  expect  you  in  Portland,  and  the 
pleasure  of  seeing  you  on  your  way  to  Alaska. 

With  best  wishes  from  my  Mother  and  myself  for  your  good 
health, 

Believe  me. 

Yours  most  Respectfully, 

Paul  Robert  Deady. 

Portland,  Oregon, 

April  2,  1893. 

Of  the  many  interesting  and  attractive  persons  to  whom  I have 
introduced  you  in  my  now  extended  Travels,  no  one  of  them  all 
surpassed  my  Friend  Judge  Deady.  After  we  met,  we  soon  found 
our  way  to  each  other’s  heart.  He  was  very  handsome,  more  than 
six  feet  in  height,  with  a well-formed  manly  frame.  His  face  and 
head  were  fine,  ci'owned  with  a thick  suit  of  auburn  hair,  as  yet  only 
sprinkled  with  the  gray.  Though  seventy  years  had  with  him  come 
and  gone,  he  bore  none  of  the  infirmities  of  age,  save  in  the  malady 
with  which  he  was  afBicted.  Of  genial,  kindly  temper,  his  counte- 
nance expressed  it.  Whilst  from  the  beginning,  I feared  he  had 
received  a fatal  wound,  yet,  I felt,  when  the  news  came  to  me  of  his 
death,  that  in  my  Friend  a good  and  able  and  valuable  man  had 
fallen  all  too  soon,  and  I sorrowed,  as  if  our  friendship  had  been  life- 
long.] 

I found  Colonel  Macfarlane  at  his  store.  He  said  his  Brother  had 
told  him  of  my  wishes  and  he  had  communicated  with  the  King,  who 
had  expressed  a most  pleasant  recollection  of  and  desire  to  see  me 
again.  The  Colonel  asked,  if  I wanted  a formal  reception?  if  so,  the 
King  would  receive  me  at  the  Palace.  I told  him,  that  was  farthest 
from  my  desires;  I wished  simply  to  call  in  the  most  informal  man- 
ner and  pay  my  respects,  in  recognition  of  our  pleasant  acquaintance- 
ship and  of  his  marked  courtesy  and  hospitality  on  my  former  visit. 
He  said,  that  being  the  case,  the  King  would  not  go  to  the  Palace; 
but  would  be  glad  to  see  me  at  one  of  his  more  unpretentious  homes 
in  the  City,  and  he  would  fix  the  hour  at  half-past  four  o’clock  in 
the  afternoon,  and  call  for  me  in  a carriage,  at  the  Steamer,  and 
accompany  me. 


HONOLULU. 


113 


I,  then,  returned  to  the  Ship  to  await  the  hour.  Soon  after,  Mr. 
Bishop  called  and  said  he  had  come  to  drive  me  to  his  house.  I 
excused  myself  on  the  ground  of  my  engagement ; but  he  insisted, 
saying,  he  would  bring  me  back  in  time.  I went  with  him  towards 
his  Carriage,  when  there  came  up  one  of  those  sudden,  unheralded 
Tropic  downpours  of  which  I have  often  told  you  in  my  Travels, 
which  speedily  put  a stop  to  our  design.  We  both  regretted  it  very 
much  : for  my  hours  were  so  few,  that  we  had  finally  to  part.  He 
lold  me  he  had  moved  from  the  lovely  home  where,  you  remember, 
he  and  Mrs.  Bishop  so  delightfully  entertained  me ; but  which  he 
left  for  another  equally  desirable,  after  her  death. 

At  the  appointed  hour  the  Colonel  came,  and  went  with  me  to  call 
upon  the  King.  We  found  him  awaiting  us — in  the  quiet  home  of 
which  I have  spoken — a one  story  frame  building,  with  verandahs, 
and  rooms  furnished  handsomely,  situated  in  the  centre  of  a highly 
improved  Square,  and  a charming  home  all  the  time,  and  for  anybody 
who  didn’t  have  a Palace.  He  came  out  to  meet  me  with  the  ease 
and  affability  of  which  I have  spoken  on  my  former  visit,  and  shaking 
hands,  gave  me  a cordial  welcome,  showing  in  it,  since  our  talk,  that 
he  had  a perfect  recollection  of  me  and  the  topics  of  our  conversation. 
We  had  an  interview  of  half  an  hour  or  more — but  not  of  such  a 
character  that  it  would  interest  you  anyway  to  hear ; not  like  my 
notable  one  with  Li  Hung  Chang — the  individuals  and  conditions 
being  totally  different.  It  would  have  been  very  hard — I rather 
think  impossible — for  King  Kalakaua  to  have  at  all  appreciated  the 
interview  with  the  Great  Chinaman,  or  have  taken  hold  of  the  ques- 
tions we  then  discussed.  Though  he  knows  full  well  from  their 
impress  upon  his  own  little  Kingdom  by  the  Sea,  that  there  are 
mighty  forces  some  way  or  how  in  this  strange  people,  which 
neither  his  nor  stronger  powers  by  far,  are  able  to  resist.  The  King 
said  he  proposes  next  year  to  make  the  same  tour  of  the  World  I am 
now  taking.  We  then  parted,  shaking  hands  as  pleasantly  as  we 
met,  he  expressing  sorrow  that  I was  leaving  so  soon,  and  urging 
me  to  stay  over  till  the  next  Steamer.  [You  remember,  shortly  after. 
King  Kalakaua  came  to  this  Country,  and  was  taken  sick  in  San 
Francisco,  where  he  died.] 

The  Colonel  then  drove  me  to  the  Palace,  that  I might  see  it — 
not  being  finished  wFen  I was  here  before.  It  is  a handsome  struc- 
ture, built  of  concrete  and  finished  and  adorned  on  the  inside  and  out 


114 


LETTER  NO.  9. 


quite  elaborately.  It  has  a fine  Hall  and  a large  room  on  either  side, 
one  the  Throne  and  Reception  Room ; the  other  the  Dining  Room. 
The  Private  Rooms  are  in  the  second  story;  on  the  Public  Room 
walls  are  portraits  of  the  Royal  Family  of  Kamehameha.  Thence  we 
drove  by  the  Government  Buildings,  and  the  Hawaiian  Hotel — stop- 
ping to  call  upon  Mr.  Severance,  who,  when  I last  saw  him,  was  in 
San  Fi’ancisco,  the  Consul  of  the  Hawaiian  Government  to  the  United 
States.  He  is  now  the  Consul  of  the  United  States  to  the  Hawaiian 
Government.  You  will  recall,  that  he  went  to  the  Steamer  in  San 
Francisco  and  introduced  me  to  a number  of  prominent  men  of  these 
Islands,  who  were  coming  over  at  the  same  time,  which  facilitated 
and  tended  to  render  more  pleasant  and  profitable  my  visit.  I was 
received  in  the  same  hearty  manner  by  Mr.  Severance  again,  and 
had  a little  chat — sending  my  kind  remembrances  to  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Severance,  iu  Hilo,  the  High  Sheriff  of  Hawaii,  who  helped  me,  you 
will  recall,  to  see  that  Island  most  auspiciously. 

We  then  drove  to  the  Steamer;  and,  on  parting,  I did  not  fail  to 
send  the  same  messages  to  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Cornwall,  Colonel  Macfar- 
lane’s  relatives  in  Maui,  who  entertained  me  in  their  beautiful  home, 
almost  under  the  shadow  of  the  majestic  Heleakela.  These  visits 
were  very  jdeasant,  and  the  more  so,  because  of  the  agreeable  memo- 
ries I seemed  to  have  left, — not  wasted  or  forgotten,  though  eight 
long  years  have  gone;  and,  though  I would  hardly  know  what  to  do 
with  myself,  if  I remained, — the  Islands  having  nothing  to  show  me 
I have  not  seen — yet  those  memories  and  these  pleasant  greetings  and 
welcomes,  are  strong  persuasions  to  linger,  if  not  to  stay. 

In  my  walks  and  rides,  I was  struck  with  the  improvements 
everywhere  about  the  City.  They  have  a Tram-Car  System ; the 
streets  are  lighted  with  Electricity  ; many  new  houses  have  gone  up  ; 
the  shipping  appears  much  more  numerous,  and  of  greater  import ; 
and  a busier  look  upon  the  Wharves  and  thoroughfares.  But  it 
strikes  me  equally,  and  with  a streak  of  sadness,  that  the  Kanaka  is 
much  rarer  than  then — the  sceptre  has  departed  from  his  Race  in  the 
beautiful  Land  of  his  Birth,  and  the  AVhite  man  and  the  Chinese 
reign  in  his  stead.  The  business  everywhere  is  in  the  hands  of  these 
more  vigorous  Races ; and  all  that  is  left  to  the  jjeople  of  Kameha- 
meha is  to  be  gathered  to  their  Fathers,  like  the  Royal  Family  itself, 
of  whom  one  single  member,  I hear,  alone  remains  to  fill  the  Throne. 
Thus,  in  the  economy  of  God’s  Providence,  does  the  fittest  survive! 


STEAMSHIP  ALAMEDA. 


115 


I hope  this  rapid  review  of  my  day’s  doings,  together  with  its 
memories,  will  not  weary  yon.  If  the  reading  of  their  story  affords 
you  as  much  interest  as  they  afforded  me,  my  writing  of  it  here  will 
not  have  been  in  vain. 

I gave  Mr.  Bishop  Letter  No.  8 to  mail,  and  send  to  the  United 
States  with  his  own.  I Avas  sorry  to  learn  that  it  would  not  even 
start  upon  its  journey  for  several  weeks.  I am  now  satisfied,  that 
with  regard  to  Letters — their  starting  and  reception — this  Avill  be  the 
most  unsatisfactory  of  any  Tour  I have  made.  The  Steamers  are 
more  rare.  Yours  will  run  long  before  they  overtake  me,  also,  on  the 
Aving;  mine  Avill  have  often  to  wait  many  a day  before  they  can  even 
begin  their  long  race  to  you.  We  must  both  understand  these  things, 
and  be  satisfied. 

On  Same  Steamship,  Pacific  Ocean, 
Between  Haavaii  and  Samoan  Islands, 

Thwsday  and  Friday,  January  23  and  24,  1890. 

The  Pacific  has  reasserted  itself  and  for  these  two  days  has  dis- 
played its  wonted  charms.  You  aauII  have  gathered  from  my  story, 
that  every  day  of  (he  seven  from  San  Francisco  to  Honolulu  Avas 
rough  and  unpleasant,  and  my  Friends,  then  trying  its  Avaters  for  the 
first  time,  could  form  no  idea  of  those  qualities  Avhich  gave  it  its 
attractive  name.  I Avish  they  were  with  us  now,  and  they  could  see 
how  Avell  the  appellation  is  bestowed. 

Wednesday  night,  Avhen  I Avent  to  bed  in  Honolulu  Harbor,  it 
Avas  amid  the  noise  of  the  ci'oaatI  upon  the  Landing,  coming  and 
going,  and  loading  and  unloading  the  Ship ; that  Avould  not  have 
disturbed  my  slumbers — but  in  a little  Avhile  after  I laid  me  doAvn 
to  sleep,  the  friendly  Mosquitoes  of  the  hospitable  Island  began  their 
serenade,  and  tooted  their  trumpets  vigorously.  I had  not  thought 
of  them  ; but  regarding  the  Avarniug,  put  a toAvel  OA^er  my  face — 
thinking  it  enough  protection,  and  fell  asleep.  About  three  o’clock 
a.  m.  the  Steamer  pulled  out,  and  its  motion,  Avith  the  breeze  through 
my  open  door  and  Avindow,  dispersed  the  Avretches,  but  not  befoi’e 
they  had,  notAA'ithstanding  my  precautions,  left  their  mementoes  on 
my  face  and  hand. 

Out  upon  the  Harbor  and  thence  upon  the  Ocean  seemed  the  same. 
The  waves  had  settled  into  quiet,  and  from  that  hour,  for  forty-eight 
since  gone,  everything  has  been  lovely. 


116 


LETTER  NO.  9. 


Our  prow  is  turned  almost  due  South,  seeking  the  Samoan  or 
Navigatoi*’s  Islands — the  first  point  of  stoppage — twenty  one  hun- 
dred miles.  Your  Map  will  show  you,  that  the  Hawaiian  Islands 
are  a Degree  or  two  within  the  Cancer  Line,  My  voyage  to  Auck- 
land is  Southwestward  across  both  middle  Zones, 

Though  I have  told  you  much  about  the  Tropics  on  previous 
Tours,  doubtless,  you  think  I am  in  Torrid  heats  and  suffering.  Far 
from  it;  the  natural  breezes  and  those  made  by  the  Vessel’s  motion 
give  us  delightful  temperatures.  Having  had  experience,  I chose  in 
San  Francisco  my  State-room  on  the  Port  or  Windward  side,  and  at 
every  hour,  day  and  night,  the  Trade  Winds  pass  through  it,  in  their 
blessed  passage  round  the  World,  bearing  beatitudes  to  the  people  of 
these  Equatorial  Regions,  unspeakable.  The  atmosphere  of  my  little 
roost  is,  therefore,  ever  brisk  and  pure.  On  Deck,  I can  sit  and  be 
fanned  by  wings  gentler  than  the  wings  of  Birds — on  which  Malaria 
never  rests — whilst  my  eye  takes  in  the  Ocean,  of  deepest  Blue, 
speeding  in  its  circuits  with  the  Winds, 

I miss  my  table  friends  who  have  gone;  but  others  have  taken 
their  places,  with  me,  at  the  Captain’s  end.  He  is  still  unable  to 
come — has  had  a serious  spell — the  Grippe  grew  into  Pneumonia 
and  threatened  dangerously.  The  other  cases  of  Grippe  on  board  all 
passed  off  without  serious  consequences,  Year  me  are  Mrs,  Barker 
and  Miss  Upton,  from  Auckland ; opposite,  Mr,  and  Mrs,  Smyth, 
from  Melbourne,  Mr,  Smyth  is  another  case  of  overwork,  from 
Australia,  They  have  been  travelling  in  the  United  States  for 
nearly  twelve  months; — I don’t  think  with  entirely  beneficial  results 
for  him.  She  is  a bright,  pretty,  cultivated  woman,  born  and  lived 
all  her  life  in  Sidney,  and  thinks  Australia  God’s  Chosen  Land — and 
smart  enough  to  tell  me  much  about  it ; and  another  Lady,  whose 
name  I have  not  heard.  The  Captain’s  name  is  H,  G,  Morse,  not 
Moss,  as  at  I at  first  caught  the  sound. 

Professor  E,  M,  Shelton,  of  Kansas, — have  I mentioned  him 
before? — called,  now  on  his  way  to  Queensland  to  take  charge 
of  the  Agricultural  Department  of  that  Colony ; and  I have  had 
much  pleasant  talk.  He  and  my  Friend  Mr,  Malfroy  sat  on  Deck 
last  night  for  several  hours  and  talked,  whilst  we  enjoyed  the  Ocean, 
and  the  Sky,  and  its  myriads  of  Stars,  and  the  slender  sickle  of  the 
new  Moon  just  risen  in  the  West,  and  the  motion  of  the  air,  well 
deserving  the  poetic  name  of  Zephyrs : — had  we  had  the  making  of 


STEAMSHIP  ALA3IEDA— PACIFIC  OCEAN. 


117 


them,  we  could  not  have  mixed  their  elements  more  perfectly.  We 
talked  of  Kansas,  and  of  New  Zealand,  and  Virginia;  and  wandered 
thence  into  the  yet  misty  regions  of  the  New  Philosophy.  They  had 
both  been  caught  in  its  Octopean  Arms,  and  whirled  away  into  Ma- 
terialism. Though  I have  read  the  Books  of  this  New  School,  and 
admire  greatly  the  fine  thoughts,  and  the  scholarly  tongue  in  which 
they  are  spoken,  I rise  from  them  ever  with  a sense  of  need.  They 
take  me  beside  green  pastures  and  along  sparkling  brooks  and  to  the 
tops  of  glorious  mountains — but  all  is  of  the  Earth.  They  shut  me  out 
from  Celestial  influences.  That  is  a one-sided  and  ephemeral  Phil- 
osophy, which  ignores  one-half  and  the  better  half  of  my  being: — 
recognizing  my  mind  and  the  world  around  me  ; ignoring  my  Heart 
and  the  Heavens  beyond. 

There  is  a Lady  aboard — from  Iowa,  with  her  Sister — far  gone  in 
Consumption — looking  for  new  lungs  by  crossing  the  Sea — a profit- 
less search.  But  she  is  ever  hopeful,  like  all  who  are  afflicted  with 
that  fatal  malady.  Her  name  is  Mrs.  Jilson,  and  I have  been  polite 
and  kind  to  her.  She  sits  not  far  from  and  opposite  me  at  table, 
and  at  every  meal  sends  me  her  can  of  Russian  Tea,  which  is  much 
better  than  that  on  board;  and  seems  delighted  when  I take  her 
kind  present,  and  tell  her  so.  I presented  her  the  Oranges  Mrs. 
Heady  gave  me ; and  told  her  she  could  have  .any  part  or  all  of 
the  Bottle  of  Old  Brandy  Judge  Thornton  armed  me  with — proof 
against  Malaria  and  other  Tropic  enemies.  This  she  would  not,  by 
any  means,  she  said,  take,  when  I might  in  my  Travels  need  it;  but 
her  appreciation,  in  her  weakness,  of  my  attention  is  beautiful,  and 
when,  if  ever,  she  gets  home,  and  abuse  is  heaped  upou  us  Southern 
Monsters,  perchance  she  Avill  say,  she  met  with  one  who  was  not 
altogether  given  over  to  the  bad. 

We  have  with  us  two  strolling  Companies: — one.  Circus,  the  other 
Dramatic — numbering  each  ten  or  twelve  men  and  women.  Some 
of  them  came  through  with  us  from  San  Francisco;  others  joined  us 
in  Honolulu.  The  Circus  Company  has  with  it  nine  or  ten  trained 
horses,  which  appear  to  be  in  good  condition  and  stand  the  voyage 
well,  though  they  never  lie  down.  The  Proprietor  tells  me  he  has 
had  these  on  some  occasions  more  than  a month  at  Sea,  and  under 
the  same  conditions,  and  never  saw  any  bad  results  to  his  animals. 
The  Ladies  say,  and  they  ought  to  know,  that  the  Circus  people 


118 


LETTER  NO.  9. 


sneeringly  speak  of  “that  Variety  Company/’  and  proudly — draw 
a line ! 

On  Same  Ship  and  Ocean, 

Saturday  and  Sunday,  January  25  and  26,  1890. 

These  two  days  have  gone,  beautifully,  like  the  others : but  of 
different  cpialities.  Saturday  varied  its  charms  with  half  dozen 
Tropic  showers — throwing  them,  like  a veil,  suddenly  athwart  the 
Sea  and  Sky,  and  as  suddenly  snatching  them  away,  coming  each 
time  out  with  brighter  smiles,  spanning  the  Heavens  with  a Bow. 
Sunday  had  no  showers,  but  brought  for  our  entertainment  some 
Boatswain’s  — Bowson  — Birds,  to  paint  their  splendid  grace  and 
figure  on  the  Air ; and  flocks — more  in  number  than  I ever  saw 
before — of  hundreds  of  Flying  Fish,  to  paint  their  grace  and  figure 
on  the  Sea.  The  Trades  continued  the  whole  day  to  blow,  and 
obliterate  all  sense  of  heat ; indeed,  in  the  Evening,  after  sundown, 
the  Ladies  had  to  wear  their  shawls  on  Deck.  Think  of  this,  almost 
in  sight  of  the  Line,  where  the  Sun  claims  a perennial  home.  The 
Captain  says,  that  from  Honolulu,  he  never  made  a finer  voyage. 
He  and  his  wife  for  these  two  days  have  been  with  us  at  the  table ; 
he  is  still  much  the  worse  for  his  spell,  but  daily  growing  better. 

We  had  no  Service  of  any  sort  to-day.  Everything  was  quiet, 
and  everybody  sat  on  Deck  and  seemed  to  enjoy  the  things  of  which 
I have  spoken,  and  feel  that  Nature  was  holding  in  her  own  great 
Temple  Services  unspeakably  impressive. 

On  Same  Ship  and  Ocean, 

Monday,  January  27,  1890. 

This  morning,  at  three  o’clock,  we  crossed  the  Equatorial  Line, 
and  glided  into  another  Hemisphere.  Though  the  Line  be  purely 
such,  it  carries  to  the  traveller  and  to  those  he  leaves  at  home,  sug- 
gestions worth  consideration.  The  former  is  passing  to  the  Antipodes, 
and  is  measuring  greater  and  greater  distances  with  every  day  and 
hour  of  movement.  This,  you  will  recall,  is  the  Fifth  time  I have 
crossed  the  great  Boundary  of  the  Spheres — but  the  first  in  which  I 
dare  our  direct  Antipodes.  Your  Map  or  Globe  will  tell  you  when 
I get  there.  In  the  meantime,  I waft  you  gentlest  greetings,  quite 


STEAMSHIP  ALAMEDA— PACIFIC  OCEAN. 


119 


sure  the  Royal  Line  will  no  more  impede  their  transit  to  you  North- 
ward than  it  did  this  morning  my  travel  to  the  South. 

Another  well-nigh  perfect  day. 

On  Same  Ship  and  Ocean, 

Tuesday,  January  28,  1890. 

Still  the  good  Ship  steams  on,  under  auspices  most  favorable.  You 
have  seen  how,  since  we  left  Honolulu,  the  elements  have  united  in 
harmonious  efforts  to  erase  the  memory  of  their  doings  before  we 
reached  tliere.  It  would  be  useless  to  tell  you  of  each  day’s  events, 
for  in  their  current,  they  but  repeated  their  own  story.  I have  gone 
regularly  to  meals,  where  we  talked  about  such  matters  as  came  up, 
pleasantly  enough.  I,  if  possible,  have  directed  the  talk  in  channels 
that  would  shed  light  upon  the  pathways  of  my  Journey,  and  thus 
gather  much  that  will  help  me  in  it.  The  Captain  and  I have  had 
frequent  conversations,  out  of  which  has  come  knowledge  for  me; 
and  with  many  others  likewise,  of  which  I have  not  time  to  write, 
but  wliich  will,  doubtless,  find  themselves  on  these  pages,  dropping 
from  time  to  time,  when  the  subjects  and  places  meet  me  on  the  way, 
in  the  progress  of  my  Tour. 

Sometimes  I read — sometimes  I simply  sat  on  Deck  and  watched 
the  Water  and  the  Sky — not  an  object  within  the  whole  range  of 
vision,  but  their  own  immensity.  For  the  Birds  would  often  dis- 
appear, aud  the  Flying  Fish  ; and  as  to  Ships,  not  one  has  shown 
itself  at  Sea,  of  smoke  or  sail,  since  we  left  the  Golden  Gate — truly, 
you  will  say,  a mighty  Waste  of  Waters.  Stranger  still,  looking  on 
the  Map,  the  Southern  Ocean  seems  literally  thronged  with  Islands ; 
yet  that  at  which  -sve  will  stop — Tutuila — is  the  only  one  we  will 
sight  between  the  Hawaiian  Group  and  New  Zealand. 

This  morning,  I had  a long  talk  with  Mr.  Turner,  a Law^yer  from 
Melbourne,  who  told  me  about  their  mode  of  Practice  ; for  which,  in 
return,  I gave  him  information  with  regard  to  ours.  They  have  in 
Victoria,  of  which  Melbourne  is  the  Capital,  preserved  the  English 
modes  and  ranks  in  the  Profession ; in  other  Colonies,  they  have 
adopted  our  American  practice. 

Much  to  my  delight,  the  Purser  tells  me  I will  have  an  oppor- 
tunity of  sending  back  a Letter  from  Tutuila,  Samoan  Islands.  This 
will  enable  you  to  receive  this  some  weeks  sooner,  than  were  I to 


120 


LETTER  NO.  10. 


mail  it  in  Auckland:  it  catching  the  Steamer  just  out  from  that  City^, 
bound  homeward.  This  is  an  unexpected  pleasure  to  me : I am  sure 
it  will  be  equally  so  to  you. 

I,  therefore,  close  this  now,  that  I may  deliver  it  to  the  Purser 
to  be  mailed.  To-morrow,  we  reach  Tutuila — twenty-one  hundred 
miles  from  Honolulu. 

With  tenderest  love  for  all, 

F. 

I don’t  think  I have  told  you,  my  health  continues  j)erfect.  How 
could  it  be  otherwise,  with  the  delicious  breezes  amidst  which  I am 
tiding?  Whilst  I write  in  the  Saloon,  through  the  open  window,  the 
Trades  come  sporting  : were  I a Poet,  I would  say,  in  balmy  touch, 
they  could  not  be  surj)assed  by  those  from  Araby  the  Blest.  You 
all  are,  doubtless,  in  the  midst  of  Snow  and  Ice. 

How  are  our  neighbors  ? How  are  things  going  with  your  im- 
provements on  the  Corner?  How  on  the  Farm?  How  with  Carter 
and  Briggs? 


[No.  10.] 


My  Dear  Taylor, 


Ojst  Steamship  Alameda, 

Between  Honolulu  and  Auckland, 

Wednesday,  January  29,  1890. 


Yesterday,  I finished  No.  9 to  Mary,  and  gave  it  to  the  Purser  to 
mail.  I rather  expect  it  will  fall  in  with  No.  8 at  Honolulu,  and 
they  will  travel  together  thence  to  San  Francisco.  That  is  better, 
than  that  No.  9 should  be  mailed  on  my  arrival  in  Auckland  and 
wait  for  the  Steamer  a mouth  hence — by  which  this.  No.  10,  will  go. 
I have  been  more  fortunate  in  sending  Letters  to  you  than  I antici- 
pated ; but  you  must  not  hence  allow  yourselves  to  be  beguiled  into 
a hopefulness  that  will  meet  with  disappointment;  there  is  only  one 
Steamer  a month  from  Australia  Westward  to  the  United  States, 
which  you  must  count  between  the  Letters.  I am  less  favored  now 
than  you.  Unless  this  Vessel  carries  Letters  for  me,  it  will  be  a 


STEAMSHIP  ALAMEDA— PACIFIC  OCEAN. 


121 


month  after  my  arrival  in  Auckland  before  any  will  come.  I trust 
some  reached  San  Francisco  in  the  mail  for  which  we  waited  there 
three  or  four  days  so  patiently. 

It  has  been  a little  warmer,  but,  by  no  means,  oppi’essive ; and 
the  weather  has  amused  itself  with  alternate  Sunshine  and  Tropic 
showers.  I have  had  much  talk  with  my  new  Friend  Mr.  Turner,  and 
have  gathered  knowledge  of  his  Country.  He  is  the  Mayor  of  his 
City,  and,  also,  a Member  of  Parliament  for  the  Colony  of  Victoria. 
He  is  one  of  those  who  believes  in  England,  and  has  no  desire  to 
sever  the  Colonial  Bond.  He  wishes  simply  to  live  on  ties  whieh 
now  unite  them  to  the  Mother  Country — feeling  no  incubus  of  a 
Foreign  Government,  but  having  ever  its  powerful  shield  between 
them  and  danger.  He  thinks  this  is  the  Aveight  and  majority  of 
opinion  in  Victoria;  and  thus  have  the  most  of  the  Australians 
talked  on  board.  On  the  contrary,  I have  conversed  with  one — 
and  a sensible,  respectable  fellow — who  expresses  views  just  the 
reverse.  He  thinks  the  time  has  come,  Avheu  the  people  of  a great 
Country  like  Australia,  ought  to  stand  on  their  own  feet  and  speak 
for  themselves.  Their  Governor  should  be  their  servant  and  mouth- 
piece, and  not  those  of  a distant,  and  to  all  intents  and  purposes. 
Foreign  Power.  England  sends  over  to  them  a stranger  to  their 
sympathies  and  needs — often  an  ignorant  or  broken  down  individual, 
who  hopes  to  restore  his  decayed  fortune  from  the  large  salary — 
frequently  equal  to  that  of  the  President  of  the  United  States — and 
for  services  of  no  value.  It  is  high  time  to  stop  it,  and  set  up  for 
themselves.  Thus  is  the  issue  joined  ; of  vital  import  both  to  Great 
Britain  and  her  Colonies.  Probably  we  can  form  an  opinion  of  the 
relative  strength  of  these  views  whilst  we  travel. 

More  talk  I had,  too,  with  my  Friends  Mr.  Malfroy,  Mr.  Turner, 
Mr.  Smyth,  Mr.  EoAvley,  a new  one,  Mr.  Marx  and  others,  about 
my  New  Zealand  Journey.  They  give  me  all  the  suggestions  in 
their  power,  and  help  me  to  the  extent  of  their  ability.  Assistance 
and  kindness  glide  out  on  me  everywhere,  and  it  matters  not  in  what 
Lands  or  on  what  Seas  I wander,  they  come  and  give  me  welcome. 

Early  this  morning,  probably  three  or  four  o’clock,  I saw  through 
the  window  of  my  State-room  that  the  Stars  were  shining  brightly, 
and  I got  up,  hoping  to  see  the  Southern  Cross.  Sure  enough,  clouds 
in  the  main  covered  the  Sky,  but  there  was  an  area  free  from  the 
slightest  mist,  where  the  Stars  shone  splendidly — the  Cross  the  Cen- 


122 


LETTER  NO.  10. 


tral  Constellation.  I have  not  seen  it  under  such  happy  auspices 
since  ray  first  introduction  to  it  near  Orizaba.  It  stood  almost  erect, 
and  every  Star  ablaze,  so  pure  and  brilliant  was  the  air — the  pointers 
brilliant  as  the  Cross. 

We  had  hoped  to  come  to  Tutuila  before  the  Sun  went  down,  that 
we  might  see  the  Natives,  who,  we  were  told,  come  out  to  meet  the 
Ship  to  sell  their  Curios,  and  dive  for  money  thrown  them.  We 
sighted  the  Island  rising  from  the  Sea — a portion  of  it  with  con- 
siderable elevations — some  hours  before  we  reached  it ; but  by  the 
time  we  did  so,  the  Sun  had  gone,  and  a shower  coming  up,  still 
further  obscured  the  view.  We  anchored  some  distance  off,  and  could 
only  see  the  outlines  of  the  Island,  and  a few  lights  scattered  along 
the  shore.  We  burned  a signal  from  the  Bridge,  Avhich  was  speedily 
responded  to,  and  a Boat  sent  out  to  meet  ns.  When  it  touched  our 
side,  a man  left  it  and  ran  nimbly  up  the  rope.  When  he  reached 
the  Deck,  though  dressed  lightly  in  our  clothing,  we  observed  he  was 
a native — a fine  looking  fellow,  of  coj^per  color,  six  feet  or  more. 
He  did  not  delay  long.  He  was  tlie  Mail  cari’ier  of  the  Islands,  and 
having  delivered  and  received  the  Bags,  with  polite  salutations  in 
broken  English,  again  descended  to  his  Boat  and  was  soon  lost  in 
the  darkness. 

This  is  all  we  saw  of  Tutuila.  I regret  our  observations  could  not 
have  been  more,  and  under  happier  auspices.  Tutuila  is  one  of  the 
Samoan  or  Navigator’s  Islands  : — of  late  grown  into  a famous  and 
important  site,  by  reason  of  the  frightful  Cyclone  which  wrecked 
many  ships  of  war  of  several  nationalities,  and  by  the  struggle  of  those 
same  nationalities  for  the  control  of  their  resources,  near  producing  a 
storm  of  more  serious  import  than  the  Cyclone. 

They  tell  us  there  are  twelve  or  thirteen  of  these  Islands,  but  only 
three  of  them  worthy  of  consideration,  the  rest  being  barren  rock  or 
too  small  for  settlement,  like  many  hundreds  of  the  Islands  which  stud 
this  Ocean.  Those  three  are  Sawaii,  Upolu,  and  Tutuila.  They  lie 
upon  the  Sea  in  the  order  named,  from  Northwest  to  Southeast.  On 
Upolu  is  Ai)ia,  the  Capital  of  the  Group,  where  the  Cyclone  played 
its  pranks.  Tutuila  has  a Harbor — Pango-Pango — which  is  said 
to  be  one  of  the  finest  in  the  South  Pacific ; and  these  Ports  have 
become,  under  the  stimulus  of  the  Germans,  English  and  Americans 
especially,  grown  into  Commercial  centres,  controlling  the  trade  and 


STEAMSHIP  ALAMEDA— PACIFIC  OCEAN. 


123 


the  distributing  point  of  the  products  of  many  of  the  Polynesian 
Groups. 

The  People  are  regarded  as  of  the  Mahori — pronounced  Mowry — 
Pace,  and  are  esteemed  among  the  finest  of  savage  Peoples.  From 
them  as  a centre,  the  Polynesian  tradition  gathers  their  various  stocks, 
like  Great  Britain  and  much  of  Europe  from  the  Scandinavian  Hive. 
However  this  may  be,  the  Mahori  Race  have  won  from  Ethnologists 
the  palm  of  superiority  of  all  the  undeveloped  peoples  across  whom 
our  fierce  Civilization  has  come  in  its  ruthless  march.  We  will  meet 
with  them  again  in  New  Zealand.  The  name  Mahori  signifies  in 
their  own  tongue  Native  of  the  Soil,  as  if  Mother  Earth,  in  their 
estimate,  when  she  gave  them  birth,  had  infused  into  them  a portion 
of  her  own  vigor.  Many  of  them  have  professed  Christianity,  and 
are  putting  on  the  armor  of  our  Civilization.  Can  they  bear  it? 
Some  say,  yes ! Some,  no  ! Time  alone  can  tell. 

The  Steamer  at  Tutuila  never  makes  the  Harbor  of  Pango-Pango; 
it  simply  stops  outside,  to  shift  mails.  It  passes  between  Tutuila  and 
Upolu,  the  latter  fifty  or  sixty  miles  to  the  Northwest;  beyond  it, 
again,  the  Island  of  Sawaii.  It  was  a disappointment  to  me  that  we 
should  have  reached  there  after  dark ; in  the  short  stay,  I could  not 
have  probably  have  gone  ashore,  but  we  were  near  enough  to  have 
seen  the  outline  of  the  Island  more  distinctly  and  its  growths,  and, 
what  I still  more  desired,  its  native  inhabitants,  who,  wherever  I 
travel,  above  all  things  else,  profoundly  interest  me. 

But  this  could  not  be.  Soon  the  Steamer  was  off ; the  Samoan 
Island  disappeared  in  the  darkness,  and  quickly  thereafter,  I was 
travelling  in  the  Land  of  Nod. 

I will  wait  to  see  the  Mahoris  in  New  Zealand,  where  especially 
they  have  made  the  name  honorable  with  their  fine  looks  and  manly 
ways. 


[You  will  recall,  that  Captain  Farquhar,  of  whom  I had  so  much 
to  write  on  my  visit  to  Peru  in  my  Fifth  Tour,  here  lost  his  good 
Ship  Trenton,  on  which  he  entertained  me  in  the  Harbor  of  Callao. 
Ordered  thence  here,  the  terrible  Cyclone  struck  him,  and  destroyed 
the  Trenton  and  many  other  Ships  of  War  of  our  own  Country  and 
other  nationalities  in  the  Harbor  of  Apia.  I will  add  nothing  to  the 
Letters  of  Captain  Farquhar  and  what  I have  written  in  the  story  of 
that  Tour.] 


124 


LETTER  NO.  10. 


On  Same  Steamship  and  Ocean, 

Thursday,  Friday,  Saturday,  and  Sunday, 

January  30,  31,  February  1,  2,  1890. 

Tliursday  was  a well-nigli  perfect  day.  Friday  put  a new  face  on 
things  and  spent  its  hours  in  throwing  Tropic  showers  in  our  face. 
Saturday,  the  clouds  fled,  but  the  Sea  rose  in  huge  billows  and  tossed 
our  bark  promiscuously,  again  emptying  the  tables  of  guests  and 
putting  them  in  cots.  I could  not  write  at  all.  To-day — Sunday — 
I am  trying  wdth  my  pen  to  talk  to  you  again  ; but  you  perceive 
with  unsteady  gait;  for  the  Vessel  is  still  bouncing  in  obedience  to 
the  motion  of  the  waves,  and  my  hand  staggci’s  with  it. 

But  could  it  move  with  its  usual  easy  and  raj)id  step,  I don’t  know 
anything  it  has  to  say.  The  days  come  and  go,  and  have  no  land- 
marks— any  more  than  the  Vessel’s  keel  makes  tracks  upon  the 
waters.  Around  us  everywhere  has  been  merely  the  Ocean  and  the 
Sky, — and  the  only  news  I have  to  tell  is  what  occurs  on  our  little 
floating  world,  and  that  has  a sameness  and  a tameness  that  would 
weary  you  clean  out,  were  I to  attempt  to  put  here  its  hum-drum 
story.  I take  my  three  meals  with  the  punctuality  of  an  old  Tar. 
I talk  with  the  jiasseugers,  directing  the  conversation  to  the  Colonies, 
where  they  nearly  every  one  reside,  not  only  because  people  like  to 
talk  about  those  things  of  which  they  know  something,  but  because 
on  Travel,  I love  to  learn.  I read,  too,  books  relating  to  the  lands 
to  which  I am  going ; and  now  and  then,  for  relief,  run  through  a 
book  written  to  wliile  the  hours : one  day,  I read  two  novelettes  by* 
William  Black — The  Penance  of  John  Logan — and  the  Snow  Idyl. 
The  former  well  done,  containing  some  fine  descriptive  writing  put 
in  pungent  English ; the  latter  very  light  and  yellow-backish — the 
one,  perchance,  written  for  fame,  the  other  for  something  more 
material.  Anyway,  the  time  glides  swiftly  with  me, — especially 
when  I am  on  these  pages  and  in  your  midst  thereby,  or  when  in 
quiet  mood  I put  myself  upon  the  wing  and  wipe  out  the  space  that 
intervenes  between  us. 

On  Thursday,  at  midnight,  the  Zelandia,  another  Steamship  of  this 
Line,  met  and  passed  us  on  her  way  from  Sydney  to  San  Francisco.. 
It  will  pick  up  the  Letters  I dropped  at  Tutuila  and  Honolulu.  May 
happiest  auspices  attend  her  on  the  Journey  ! This  is  the  same  Ship 


STEAMSHIP  ALAMEDA— PACIFIC  OCEAN. 


125 


as  that  in  which  I travelled  from  Honolulu  on  my  First  Tour,  I think. 
Just  here  the  Vessel  gave  a lurch,  and  tossed  things  helter-skelter 
across  the  Saloon,  where  I am  writing,  and  rattled  furiously  the  plate 
and  crockery  ware.  I held  to  the  ink  and  paper  till  it  was  done. 

We  have  had  no  Birds  with  us  to  beguile  the  vacancy  of  the  time 
and  air.  But  on  Friday  Evening,  about  Sunset,  a single  splendid 
specimen  came  and  hovered  about  the  Ship.  He  seemed  to  be  weary, 
and  after  a while,  with  much  fluttering  ado,  settled  on  the  Prow.  One 
of  the  passengers  crept  on  and  caught  him  by  the  legs.  He  turned 
fiercely,  pecked  and  bit  his  captor  w-ith  his  long,  sharp  beak,  and 
speedily  released  himself  and  flew  away.  I did  not  recognize  the 
Bird,  from  any  I had  ever  seen.  The  Captain  said  it  was  a Booby; 
but  I think  he  was  mistaken.  Whilst  as  large,  or  larger  probably, 
it  has  a longer,  sharper,  stronger  beak,  and  was  much  fiercer  and 
more  aggressive. 

At  half-past  three  o’clock  p.  m.  on  Friday,  we  crossed  the  South 
Tropic  Line;  thus,  since  we  left  San  Francisco,  have  w'e  traversed  the 
Earth’s  thermal  Belt,  and  are  again  in  temperate  spheres — antipodal 
to  our  owm.  With  what  ease  do  we  now,  under  the  force  of  Steam, 
despise  the  World’s  great  lines,  and  glide  along  or  across  them 
defiantly ! The  Sailor’s  dreads  and  superstitions  have  passed  into 
the  Limbo  that  Science  has  constructed  for  their  burial. 

Mr.  Sturrock,  a typical  Scotchman  of  the  broadest  brogue,  wFo  has 
been  living  in  Melbourne  for  many  years,  and  evidently  a sturdy  son 
of  the  Barley  Cakes,  introduced  himself  to  me,  and  we  had  much  talk 
about  the  Colonies ; he  gave  me  his  card  and  address,  and  tendered 
help  and  information  in  any  way  in  his  power  during  my  stay.  Mr. 
Smyth  gave  me  a Letter  to  Samuel  Cook,  one  of  the  Editors  of  the 
Sydney  Morning  Herald;  and  others  gave  me  tenders  of  civility  too 
numerous  to  mention  on  this  rolling  Sea. 

I wonder  I have  been  able  to  scribble  this  much. 

I will  make  bold  to  scribble  a little  further,  and  tell  you,  just  as 
if  it  was  worth  the  telling,  how,  last  night,  the  Circus-man  lost  one 
of  his  horses.  He  informed  me  of  it  this  morning,  with  much  sorrow. 
The  poor  creatures  have  been  standing  ever  since  we  left  San  Fran- 
cisco ; one  of  them  fell  and  never  rose  again.  With  all  their  force 
and  ingenuity  they  could  not  get  him  up  alive.  The  Circus-man 
said  he  was  his  best-trained  animal,  and  a great  loss — one  not  to  be 
replaced.  He  said  to  train  him  cost  the  labor  of  several  years,  and 


126 


LETTER  NO.  10. 


gave  me  much  information  with  regard  to  the  process, — altogether 
one  of  kindness,  never  using  the  wliip,  save  to  teach  him  his  master- 
ship. I think  he  has  badly  provided  for  the  animals,  standing  them 
on  the  naked  boards,  without  straw  or  matting,  and  not  having  belly- 
belts  to  support  them  in  case  of  rough  weather  or  of  their  limbs 
giving  way.  I fear  he  will  lose  more  of  them,  before  he  gets  to  his 
destination  : which  before  his  loss,  was  Sydney — now  Adelaide. 

On  Same  Ship  and  Sea, 

Tuesday,  February  4,  1890. 

You  observe,  the  last  day  was  Sunday — and  this  I write  Tuesday, 
though  no  day  has  intervened.  Monday  it  is  with  you  ; with  us, 
having  crossed  the  180°  Parallel,  going  Westward, — which  we  did 
yesterday  Evening — we  simply  drop  it  out.  When  we  get  to  Auck- 
land we  will  find  we  have  not  been  amiss  in  doing  so;  and  when  we 
steam  in  to-morrow,  we  will  observe  that  it  is  Wednesday  on  the 
New  Zealand  Calendar. 

When  travelling  from  Yokohama  to  San  Francisco,  at  the  same 
parallel,  going  Eastward,  I won  a day,  and  have  owed  it  ever  since ; 
I now  honestly  return  it,  and  Time  and  I are  once  more  even. 

To-day  continues  rough,  and  the  passengers  are  longing  for  the 
Land.  I am  not  ruffled,  and  bear  it  meekly;  though  when  the 
Captain  tells  me,  that  to-morrow  before  mid-day  he  hopes  to  enter 
Auckland  Harbor,  I am  not  sorry. 

Auckland,  New  Zealand, 

Star  Hotel, 

Wednesday,  February  5,  1890. 

Safe  in  Auckland — the  end  for  awhile  of  my  broad  Ocean  travel 
— distant  from  San  Francisco  six  thousand  and  fifty  miles. 

It  must  have  been  in  the  small  hours  this  morning,  that,  awaking, 
I found  myself  tossed  in  my  cot  by  the  still  rolling  waves  ; all  at 
once,  in  a moment  as  it  were,  the  Vessel  seemed  to  glide  into  quiet 
waters,  and  steamed  without  a tremor.  I felt  quite  sure  we  were  on 
the  lee  of  Land  and  that  New  Zealand  bad  been  reached.  I got  up 
after  awhile  and  dressed,  and  going  upon  Heck,  found  the  long  Coast 
of  the  Northern  Island  bounding  our  West.  Entering  the  broad 


A UCKLAND. 


127 


Hauraki  Gulf,  we  passed  Kawau,  the  little  Island  which  Sir  George 
Gray  owned  and  adorned,  and  where  he  lately  lived ; he  recently  sold 
it,  and  now  resides  in  Auckland,  where  I hope  to  meet  him.  It 
was  too  far  off  in  the  early  light  to  see. 

Soon,  the  Sun  gaining  power,  opened  a lovely  day,  and  the  approach 
to  Auckland  showed  its  best.  In  the  distance,  on  the  right.  North 
Head,  a bulky  elevation,  extended  into  the  Gulf;  on  its  West,  rose 
Mount  Victoria — both  extinct  Volcanoes — the  former  now  heavily 
fortified  around  and  to  us  coming  in.  Behind  these  lay  the  Harbor. 
Passing  between  them  and  Rangitoto — bloody  sky — and  other  smaller 
Islands,  the  City  and  its  suburbs  coming  more  and  more  in  view  as 
we  advance.  Mount  Eden  looming  up  behind,  another  quiet  crater, 
dominating  the  City,  not  unlike  the  Punch  Bowl  does  Honolulu. 
Auckland  and  its  outlying  Villages  and  Villas  were  around  us — a 
beautiful  and  welcome  scene.  The  New  Zealanders  boast  of  Auck- 
land’s Harbor,  and  well  they  may. 

We  landed  at  the  Wharf.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Malfroy  and  I determined 
to  keep  together.  He  being  well  acquainted  with  the  City,  brought 
me  to  this  Hotel.  Mr.  Rowley,  having  lived  here  a few  years  ago, 
knew  the  Custom’s  Officer,  and  introduced  me ; and  my  Trunk  was 
passed  without  examination.  I bade  the  Captain  and  his  wife  and 
my  numerous  new-made  Friends  Good  Bye  ! with  many  kind  wishes 
and  invitations,  and  sending  our  baggage  by  the  local  Express,  we 
wMked,  a short  distance,  to  this  Hotel,  and  were  soon  assigned  to  our 
Rooms,  and  by  eight  o’clock  were  comfortably  quartered. 

After  Breakfast,  Mr.  Malfroy  walked  out  with  me;  we  went  to 
the  Bank  of  New  Zealand  first,  where  I drew  some  English  money, 
and  where  I happily  found  two  Letters  awaiting  me — fi'om  Charles 
and  Charley — the  former  of  January  4th,  the  latter,  January  1st.  I 
was  truly  glad  to  get  them.  Yours  ended  in  San  Francisco;  these 
came  on  the  same  Steamer  with  me. 

We  then  strolled  about  and  visited  the  Chamber  of  Commerce, 
and  were  shown  some  fine  specimens  of  Gold  Ore,  and  where  Mr. 
Malfroy  met  many  acquaintances,  to  whom  he  introduced  me,  but 
whose  names  even  I do  not  remember,  though  they  received  me 
cordially,  and  tendered  me  many  civilities.  He  took  me  to  an 
Establishment  where  the  Kauri — pronounced  Kowry — Gum  is  col- 
lected for  Commerce ; much  of  it  is  transported  to  Europe  and 
America,  and  used  for  the  manufacture  of  Varnish.  It  is  the  exhu- 


128 


LETTER  NO.  10. 


elation  of  the  Kauri  Tree,  one  of  the  finest  growths  in  the  World, 
peculiar  to  New  Zealand,  and  confined  in  its  habitat  to  portions  only 
of  the  North  Island.  The  Gum  forms  at  the  roots,  and  at  the 
junctures  of  the  branches  and  trunk.  The  tree  itself  is  of  very 
valuable  timber,  and,  consequently,  like  our  own  forests,  has  been 
ruthlessly  swept  away  by  the  woodman,  and  will  soon  be  clean  gone. 
The  Gum,  however,  is  now  found  sometimes  in  large  deposits,  the 
forests,  even  to  the  stumps,  having  long  since  gone — the  Gum  itself, 
like  a fossil,  remaining  unaffected  by  the  elements  or  time.  The 
Manager  told  me  that  it  is  a valuable  commodity,  and  finds  a ready 
sale  at  home  and  abroad,  and,  strange  to  say,  though  by  the  increas- 
ing scarcity  of  the  trees  not  a great  deal  is  now  produced,  yet  large 
quantities  are  brought  in  by  the  Natives  from  the  ancient  deposits, 
of  which  I have  spoken.  He  kindly  gave  me  some  specimens  of  the 
polished  wood,  showing  the  grain  of  the  Kauri  and  the  gloss  of  the 
varnish.  I shall  take  them  Home.  I bought  an  India  Rubber  Coat 
for  inland  travel,  and  a Salt  Spoon  for  your  Set. 

When  we  returned  to  the  Hotel,  I found  Mrs.  and  Miss  Jilson 
had  left  the  Steamer,  determining  to  stop  here  instead  of  going  on  to 
Sydney  as  they  first  proposed  ; the  former  was  wearied  and  worn  by 
the  rough  weather,  and  having  five  days  further  travel  to  Sydney, 
resolved  to  stop.  Her  travel  in  search  of  health  will,  I fear,  be  in 
vain. 

After  Dinner,  we — Mr.  and  Mrs.  Malfroy  and  hliss  Jilson  and 
myself — visited  the  Museum,  where  we  found  many  things  of  interest 
relating  to  the  history  and  customs  of  the  Mahoris — as  I have 
already  said,  pronounced  Mowrys,  meaning  natives  of  the  soil — the 
autochthones  of  these  Islands — and  preserved  specimens  of  their 
Animal  Life,  and  plaster-casts  of  Ancient  Statuary,  like  those  in  the 
Corcoran  Gallery,  fairly  well  done  ; altogether,  a creditable  collection 
for  a young  City.  We  went  thence  to  the  Government  Grounds  and 
Park — the  latter  not  much  to  speak  of — only  recently  laid  out;  from  its 
heights  a good  view  of  the  town  is  afforded,  lying  thickly  around  the 
Government  House  Grounds,  older  and  more  imposing.  Here  we  met 
with  our  broad  Scotch  Friends,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Sturrock,  who  had,  also, 
left  the  Steamer,  to  see  something  of  New  Zealand  before  returning  to 
Melbourne,  where  they  reside.  We  went  together  to  visit  the  Library 
and  Art  Gallery  near  by — more  creditable  even  than  the  Museum ; 
'Chiefly  interesfiug  from  the  Collection  of  Books  and  Curios  presented 


AUCKLAND. 


129 


by  Sir  George  Gray.  Mr.  Malfroy  introduced  me  to  the  Librarian, 
who,  at  once,  joined  us,  and  accompanying,  showed  us  many  curious 
old  Books,  Manuscripts,  and  private  Letters,  which  Sir  George  had 
collected  in  his  long  and  active  Life.  He  is  now  eighty  years  of  age, 
or  more,  and  by  the  admiration  in  which  he  is  held  both  by  the  white 
and  Mahori  population,  may  be  regarded  as  one  of  the  Institutions  of 
New  Zealand.  I was  very  anxious  to  see  and  converse  with  him ; 
but,  unhappily,  he  is  out  of  town,  at  Waiwera,  a sea-side  resort  about 
twenty  miles  north  of  the  City.  The  Librarian  expressed  his  great 
regret  at  his  absence,  being  satisfied,  he  said,  how  much  mutual 
pleasure  we  could  derive  from  the  meeting,  in  talking  of  America 
and  the  Australian  Colonies.  Though  advanced  in  years,  he  enjoys 
a vigorous  old  age,  and  is  full  of  genial  feeling  and  talk.  He  is  one 
of  the  few  men  in  these  Regions  I care  to  see.  We  spent  an  hour  or 
two  in  wandering  through  the  Art  Gallery  and  Library,  our  kind 
Conductor  being  a man  of  intelligence  and  culture,  and  manifestly 
interested  in  showing  us  this  attention  and  courtesy. 

The  rest  of  the  afternoon,  I wandered  alone  about  Auckland. 
The  City,  with  its  suburbs,  it  is  claimed,  has  sixty  thousand  people. 
About  it,  I saw  few  evidences  of  wealth,  and  whilst  it  is  well  graded, 
its  streets  mainly  macadamized  and  its  sidewalks  asphalt,  there  are 
few  fine  buildings,  and  the  place  presents  a by  no  means  busy  look. 

It  is  warm  in  the  Sun,  and  my  umbrella  is  both  comfortable  and 
safe.  In  the  shade  there  is  no  oppressiveness  of  heat. 

Auckland,  New  Zealand, 

Same  Hotel, 

Thm'sday,  February  6,  1890. 

I went  this  morning  to  the  Bank  and  gave  orders  for  my  Letters 
and  Papers,  when  they  came,  to  be  forwarded  to  Melbourne.  For 
the  first  time,  I heard  that  these  Australian  Colonies  are  not  in  the 
Postal  Union.  They,  bumpy-headed,  I am  told,  were  not  willing 
to  be  quiet  under  the  wing  of  the  Parent  Country,  but  wanted  to 
speak  in  the  Union  for  themselves,  and  were  not  satisfied  unless  heard 
as  a distinct  nationality  with  the  other  independent  States,  and,  con- 
sequently, I was  informed  by  the  Manager  of  the  Bank,  had  been 
left  out  in  the  cold.  The  result  of  this  bumptuousness  is  not  only 
bad  for  them,  but  very  inconvenient  for  the  traveller.  Under  the 
9 


130 


LETTER  NO.  10. 


Union,  you  know,  the  single  Postage  put  on  at  the  starting  of  the 
Letter  will  carry  it  around  the  World,  simply  needing  re-direction 
from  point  to  point ; not  so,  now  and  here : the  Postage  of  Letters 
forwarded  must  be  again  prepaid.  I had  to  make  arrangements  with 
my  Banker,  to  forward  and  collect  through  my  Banker  in  Melbourne 
any  postage  he  might  pay  for  me;  which  I will  discharge  on  my 
arrival  there.  I hope  this  will  succeed,  and  the  same  good  fortune 
attend  these  Letters,  that  has  accompanied  those  of  my  former  Tours, 
of  which,  you  remember,  not  a single  one  was  lost  in  their  running 
to  or  fro. 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  Sturrock  and  I agreed  to  get  a carriage  and  ride 
to  Mount  Eden.  I invited  Miss  Jilson  to  join  us.  Whilst  on  the 
street  I took  a conveyance,  and  came  to  the  Hotel  at  the  appointed 
hour.  The  wild  Scotchman  was  not  there  ; the  Ladies  were  ready. 
We  waited  some  time,  and  he  not  coming,  we  went  without  him. 
The  ride  to  the  top  of  the  Mountain  is  two  or  three  miles,  through 
the  City  and  by  a spiral  well-graded  road  to  the  summit.  During 
it,  we  saw  much  of  the  resident  portion  of  Auckland, — making  the 
impression  upon  me,  already  expressed,  of  not  much  accumulated 
wealth.  The  houses  are  weather-boarded — mainly  one  story  with 
verandahs  and  small  yards,  nicely  improved — only  a few  handsome 
ones.  Ascending  the  spiral,  the  City  with  its  extended  suburbs  and 
the  surrounding  Country  opened  finely,  and  the  Main  and  Islands 
and  blended  Sea  and  Land  presented  a splendid  Panorama — the 
Mountain  standing  loftily  in  the  midst.  It  could  be  seen  how  Auck- 
land has  earned  the  name  of  the  Corinth  of  the  Pacific — the  narrow 
neck  of  Land  on  which  it  is  located  dividing  the  Sea — 

“ The  landmark  to  the  double  tide 
That  purpling  rolls  on  either  side.” 

Should  Auckland  grow  into  large  proportions,  it  will  cover  this 
neck  of  Land,  and  a Canal  will  unite  the  Eastern  and  Western  waters 
— Hauraki  and  Manukou,  pronounced  Manukow — on  both  of  which 
it  will  have  admirable  Harbors.  It  can  well  be  seen  how  Mount 
Eden  is  an  extinct  V olcano,  for  there  upon  its  top  is  the  deep  funnel- 
shaped  Crater,  now  silent  and  dry,  only  showing  in  it,  and  the 
structure  of  the  Mountain  itself,  how  fiercely  its  fires  once  burned. 
From  it,  too,  numerous  other  extinct  Volcanic  Mountains  are  visible; 
indeed,  it  is  said,  that  within  a radius  of  ten  miles,  sixty-three  points 


AUCKLAND. 


131 


of  eruption  can  be  counted,  evidencing  how  once  upon  a time  this 
region  was  the  scene  of  elemental  conflicts,  of  late  transferred  further 
South — to  places  now  famous  for  their  destructive  agencies,  which  I 
propose  to  visit. 

On  our  return,  our  Scotch  Friend  apologized  for  his  failure  to 
meet  his  engagement,  by  saying  he  had  fallen  in  with  some  of  his 
Countrymen — as  wild  and  oblivious  as  himself. 

In  the  afternoon,  we  crossed  to  North  Side  in  a Ferry  Boat  and 
visited  Calliope  Dock,  a new  and  fine  affair.  The  Orlando — Flag- 
ship of  the  Admiral — a large  and  elaborately  finished  and  furnished 
English  man-of-war — is  now  in  the  dry,  undergoing  repair.  We 
went  aboard  and  were  received  by  the  Officer  on  duty  with  great 
politeness ; showed  the  mode  in  which  Albion  proposes  to  protect  her 
preserves,  or  punish  insults,  with  what  she  now  calls  her  “ Bulwarks 
on  the  Deep.’’  But  I have  not  time  to  tell  you  of  the  massive  and 
elaborate  affair.  When  we  returned,  Dinner  was  ready — which  ended 
the  day’s  doings  and  Auckland.  To-morrow,  I start  with  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  Malfroy  for  a survey  of  the  Interior. 

During  the  day,  I procured  tickets,  which  have  just  been  brought 
me.  I will  close  this,  that  I may  mail  it  here  before  I start.  It 
will  not  go  for  some  days,  but  will  be  ready  when  the  Steamer  comes 
from  Australia  on  its  way  to  the  United  States. 

To  Charles:  I was  delighted  to  get  your  and  Charley’s  Letters. 
All  I can  do  now  is  to  express  my  gratification.  I have  hardly  time 
to  do  that  much,  in  the  hurry  of  getting  ready  to  move  on.  Com- 
ment must  be  left  for  future  Letters.  You  say  Mary  will  soon  be 
with  you.  Maybe  she  will  be  in  Alexandria  when  this  arrives.  If 
so,  tell  her  to  be  a good  girl,  and  not  allow  the  excitement  of  City 
life  to  intoxicate  her.  Love  to  big  and  little  of  both  Households. 

In  great  haste.  With  tenderest  love  for  all. 

F. 

I send  to  you  and  Charles,  by  this  mail,  also,  maps  of  New  Zea- 
land, that  you  may  follow  me  readily. 


132 


LETTER  NO.  11. 


[No.  11.] 


My  Dear  Margaret, — 


Oxford,  New  Zealand, 

Royal  Hotel, 

Friday,  February  7,  1890. 


Yesterday,  I closed  No.  10,  to  Taylor,  and  this  morning  mailed  it 
with  the  Clerk  of  the  Star  Hotel  in  Auckland.  I,  also,  sent  at  same 
time.  Maps  of  New  Zealand  to  Charles  and  you  and  Taylor,  that  you 
may  the  better  follow  me  on  my  travels  from  day  to  day.  They 
are  admirably  executed,  with  the  Rail  and  Coach  Lines  distinctly 
marked.  I closed  the  Letter  because  I wanted  it  to  reach  you  by  the 
next  Steamer : — going  into  the  Interior,  it  might  be  delayed. 

I intended  to  have  told  you  all,  in  Letter  No.  10,  to  write  on  and 
after  its  receipt  to  Melbourne,  Australia,  care  of  Union  Bank  of 
Australia ; but  I forgot  it,  and,  therefore,  on  my  arrival  here  wrote 
you  a note  to  that  effect,  which  I hope  may  reach  you  by  the  same 
mail  as  No.  10. 

I failed  to  tell  you  one  of  the  incidents  of  yesterday.  I called  to 
see  Mr.  John  Darcy  Connolly,  our  Consul  at  Auckland.  I found 
him  an  affable,  pleasant  fellow,  and  we  talked  a good  deal  about  these 
Colonies.  Whilst  thus  engaged,  my  Friends,  Miss  Jilson  and  Mr. 
Malfroy,  came  in  to  make  inquiry  about  two  drafts,  which  the  Bank 
of  New  Zealand  declined  to  honor.  They  were  drawn  by  a Topeka, 
Kansas,  Bank  on  one  in  London,  and  the  New  Zealand  Banker 
declined  to  cash  it  on  the  ground  that  he  knew  none  of  the  parties. 
The  Consul  did  not  know  what  to  do,  but  agreed  to  go  to  the  Bank 
and  see  what  assistance  he  could  render.  I went  with  them  and 
heard  the  Banker’s  objections,  which  were  certainly  well-founded, 
and  appreciating  the  great  trouble  to  which  they  were  put,  told  the 
Manager  I would  endorse  the  Draft,  and  Mr.  Malfroy  agreed,  also, 
to  endorse  under  me,  and  the  Manager  let  her  have  the  money.  This 
was  a great  relief  to  the  Ladies,  especially  Mrs.  Jilson,  whose  feeble 
condition  could  not  have  stood  the  shock  of  being  left  without  money 
in  this  far-off  Country. 


AUCKLAND— LETTER  FROM  C.  F.  JILSON. 


133 


[When  we  parted,  Mrs.  Jilson  insisted  I should  write  to  her  at 
Topeka,  Kansas,  where  she  resides,  on  my  return  Home,  at  the  end 
of  my  Tour,  and  give  her  a brief  account  of  my  experiences.  I 
promised  her  that  I would,  though  I had  little  hope  that  she  would 
get  back,  and  receive  my  Letter.  Her  feeble  couditjon  seemed  to 
indicate  the  impossibility  of  her  being  able  to  stand  the  fatigues  of 
the  long  journey. 

I fulfilled  the  promise,  and  received  the  following  response  from 
her  husband : 

The  Chicago,  Kansas,  and  Nebraska  Kailway  Company. 

Office  of  the  Secretary  and  Treasurer. 

C.  F.  Jilson,  Secretary  and  Treasurer. 

Topeka,  Kansas,  September  1,  1890. 

Hon.  Fred.  W.  M.  Holliday, 

Winchester,  Va. : 

Dear  Sir, — I have  before  me  your  favor  of  the  24th,  addressed  to 
Mrs.  Jilson,  and  it  is  my  sad  duty  to  announce  to  you  her  death, 
which  took  place  here  at  her  home  on  June  the  6th.  Papers  an- 
nouncing the  fact  were  sent  to  all  her  Steamer  friends  and  acquaint- 
ances, but  it  seems  the  Paper  addressed  to  you  miscarried. 

She  arrived  at  San  Francisco  on  her  return  Voyage,  March  15, 
sooner  than  I anticipated,  as  by  not  going  to  Australia,  she  failed  to 
get  my  Cablegram  at  Sydney,  and  I did  not  know  at  the  time  of  her 
failure,  also,  to  stop  at  Honolulu  over  one  Steamer  on  her  return,  as 
she  originally  contemplated.  However,  my  Daughter  and  I went  on 
to  San  Francisco,  and  met  her  there,  and  we  returned  together.  I saw 
that  she  was  much  weaker  than  when  she  left ; but  she  still  continued 
hopeful,  and  I trusted  she  would  have  another  of  her  wonderful 
rallies,  and  again  adorn  her  home  with  her  bright  and  cheerful  spirit. 

The  return  Voyage  from  New  Zealand  was  very  hard  on  her ; one 
day,  not  feeling  so  well  as  she  thought  she  might,  she  called  the  Ship 
Doctor  to  prescribe  for  her  ; but  the  medicine  he  gave  did  not  agree 
with  her,  and  she  was  taken  with  a severe  vomiting  spell,  which  lasted 
all  night,  and  very  much  reduced  her  remaining  strength.  And  then 


134 


LETTER  NO.  11. 


a severe  storm  arose  as  they  were  nearing  Honolulu,  preventing  the 
Steamer’s  entrance  into  the  Harbor  for  a day. 

We  remained  in  San  Francisco  a week,  to  enable  her  to  recruit, 
and  then  started  for  home,  Mrs.  Jilson  standing  the  journey  very 
well.  While,  in  San  Francisco  she  procured  the  Compound  Oxygen 
treatment,  and  she  expected  to  receive  much  benefit  from  it.  For  a 
time  it  seemed  to  do  her  good,  and  she  gave  us  all  encouragement  by 
her  courage,  and  her  constant  efforts  to  recover  her  health.  About 
the  First  of  June  there  came  a sudden  change,  and  she  grew  percep- 
tibly weaker  every  day,  and  finally  on  the  6th  of  June,  at  one  o’clock 
p.  m.,  she  passed  away,  peacefully.  She  never  gave  up,  and  continued 
her  exertions  for  recovery  to  the  end.  The  day  she  died,  she  was 
much  better  than  she  had  been  for  some  days,  and  I think  her  death 
on  that  day  was  as  much  a surprise  to  her  as  to  us,  for  the  last  words 
she  uttered,  “ I am  dying,”  were  said  in  a sudden,  astonished  way,  as 
if  the  fact  Avas  but  at  that  instant  revealed  to  her. 

She  gave  us,  on  her  return,  many  entertaining  descriptions  of  her 
Travels,  and  the  acquaintances  she  had  made,  dwelling  again  and 
again  on  the  many  kind  attentions  you  had  shown  her,  and  how  she 
thought  they  had  in  one  of  her  sinking  spells,  saved  her  life,  and 
enabled  her  to  see  again  her  Husband  and  Daughter.  She  was  in 
hopes  she  would  hear  from  you  again,  but  the  end  came  sooner  than 
was  expected. 

At  her  death,  I had  some  intention  of  writing  you,  but  thought 
you  had  not  returned  from  your  trip  around  the  World,  which  fact 
was  a few  days  ago  confirmed  to  me,  by  seeing  notice  of  your  return 
in  the  Chicago  Tribune. 

Her  stay  in  New  Zealand  was  made  delightful  to  her  by  a kind 
Landlady  and  by  beautiful  weather,  and  it  was,  no  doubt,  a fortunate 
thing  that  she  did  not  attempt  to  reach  Australia. 

I feel,  that  I cannot  sufficiently  thank  you  for  your  kindness  to 
Mrs.  Jilson  on  her  Voyage,  and  for  the  companionship  and  enter- 
tainment you  gave  her  in  her  sickness.  I regret,  that  she  could  not 
herself  have  had  the  pleasure  of  receiving  and  answering  your  Letter, 
and  of  wishing  you  many  enjoyable  years  to  come. 

Most  truly  yours, 

C.  F.  Jilson. 


AUCKLAND— LETTER  FROM  MISS  JILSON. 


135 


I,  also,  received  the  following  from  Miss  Jilson. 


St.  Paul,  September  30,  1890. 

Ex- Governor  Holliday, 

Kind  Friend, — I have  thought  of  you  so  often  and  wondered  how 
you  enjoyed  yourself  after  we  (that  is,  Mrs.  Jilson,  my  Sister-in-Law, 
and  myself)  parted  at  Auckland,  New  Zealand.  I will  not  write  you 
about  her  death,  as  my  Brother  says  he  answered  your  Letter.  But 
I must  say,  your  kind,  encouraging  words  always  left  a lasting  im- 
pression on  her  mind,  and  she  always  spoke  of  you  as  one  of  the  most 
pleasant  acquaintances  she  met  on  that  long  trip — which  seems  like  a 
dream  to  me.  It  was  all  that  we  (her  husband  and  myself)  could  do 
to  keep  her  alive  coming  over  the  Mountains.  Her  strength  gave 
out  on  our  return  trip,  and  on  a good  many  days  she  was  not  able  to 
sit  up ; her  cry  was  ever,  how  can  I give  up  my  Husband  and  little 
Daughter ! but  then  came  the  final  struggle,  and  she  at  last  went,  like 
the  going  out  of  a candle. 

I will  try  to  tell  you  something  about  our  return  trip  to  America. 
The  Steamer  Alameda  came  into  Auckland  Harbor  on  Sunday  Even- 
ing at  6.30  p.  m.,  leaving  on  Monday,  February  24,  at  2.30  p.  m. 
It  was  a lovely  day,  and  the  good  people  came  down  to  see  us  off. 
I shall  always  remember  Auckland.  There  were  no  bad  storms  till 
we  came  near  to  the  Sandwich  Islands.  Then  between  Tutuila  and 
Honolulu,  we  saw  one  day  two  Water  Spouts.  Captain  Morse  said 
they  were  about  six  miles  from  us,  but  were  travelling  in  the  same 
direction  with  ourselves.  They  were  about  a mile  in  circumference. 
It  was  a grand  sight.  At  Samoa,  the  Natives  came  out  to  meet  us 
to  the  number  of  thirty  or  forty,  “ to  sell  Curios  and  Fruit.”  The 
Boat  stayed  some  thirty  minutes,  and  we  had  a good  chance  to  see 
these  people  and  hear  them  chatter  in  their  language. 

At  Honolulu,  the  City  had  been  visited  by  big  washouts,  so  that  on 
our  return,  we  could  not  go  to  see  the  Volcano  Kilauea,  on  Hawaii. 
When  our  Boat  started  again,  our  number  was  increased  to  175 
passengers,  and  a merry  crowd  they  were,  and  musical.  There  were 
Concerts  and  Dancing  every  Evening,  and  everybody  was  glad  to 
think  that  in  seven  days  we  would  see  our  own  Country  once  more. 
I came  home  fully  satisfied.  Give  me  ever  our  own  American  soil 
and  ways.  I hope  you  are  enjoying  good  health.  I shall  be  pleased 


136 


LETTER  NO.  11. 


to  hear  from  you.  With  the  best  wishes  of  your  friend  of  the 
Steamer  Alameda, 

Claea  Jilson.] 


To  proceed  with  the  story  of  my  Tour. 

I left  Auckland  by  train  this  morning  at  nine  o’clock — with  me 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Malfi’oy  and  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Sturrock — and  reached 
here  at  six  this  afternoon — distance  one  hundred  and  thirty-four 
miles.  At  a place  called  Mercer,  we  stopped  to  Lunch.  This  was 
slow  travelling.  But  though  narrow  gauge,  the  Road  was  an  admir- 
able one,  the  track  well  laid  and  smooth,  and  the  car  nicely  finished 
with  plush  seats ; there  were  several  cars  and  all  were  filled,  showing 
a considerable  travel.  Most  of  them  were  English  and  Scotch,  which 
was  the  case  at  the  Hotel  in  Auckland  during  my  stay  there. 

PassiEg  out  of  the  town,  I had  again  an  opportunity  of  seeing  the 
character  of  the  houses  and  streets  upon  the  suburbs,  confirming  my 
views  of  yesterday.  Mount  Eden  again  dominated  the  scene ; and 
advancing,  other  Craters  of  a similar  character  rose  upon  the  Land- 
scape, and  the  Country  itself  around  in  its  appearance  indicated  the 
reign  of  Volcanic  forces  in  the  ages  gone.  Some  of  the  Land  was 
cleaned  up  and  well  cultivated,  though  a very  small  part  in  com- 
parison with  that  which  remained  in  its  primitive  state.  Here  and 
there  a Whar6  or  Mahori  habitation,  and  a few  of  the  people  appeared ; 
— but  very  few — foretelling  how  in  a little  while  the  places  which 
knew  them  once,  shall  know  them  no  more  forever. 

Soon  the  water  appeared  at  no  great  distance  on  either  hand,  show- 
ing how  Auckland  deserves  the  ancient  classic  name  of  Corinth  ; and 
then  soon  thereafter,  we  came  to  and  ascended  the  Waikato,  the  finest 
River  of  New  Zealand,  whose  waters  in  their  pellucid  flow  would  do 
no  injustice  to  that  of  the  sparkling  current  of  our  own  Daughter  of 
the  Stars.  The  Country  was  in  the  main  denuded  of  timber — here 
and  there  were  groves — not  many  or  large — and  sometimes  areas  of 
stumps  appeared,  indicating  how  the  forests  have  been  swept  away. 
Fires,  too,  had  been  and  were  numerous — blazing  among  the  trees 
and  sweeping  over  the  fields — helped  by  the  tall  weeds  and  grass, 
especially  the  Manikou  or  so-called  New  Zealand  tea-plant — some- 
thing resembling  in  the  distance  the  Sage  Bush  of  our  Western 
Plains — which  seems  to  feed  the  fire  admirably. 


AUCKLAND  TO  OXFORD. 


137 


Things  improved  whilst  we  advanced,  open  reaches  of  country 
came,  level  and  smooth  like  our  Prairies,  banded  in  the  distance  all 
around  by  Mountains,  much  of  it  enclosed  with  post  and  rail  or  wire 
fences,  and  covered  often  with  hundreds  of  well-conditioned  Cattle 
and  Horses,  and  equally  fine  Sheep  in  thousands.  One  tract  of 
a hundred  thousand  acres  or  more  I was  told  is  owned  by  some 
Englishmen,  and  it  excites  considerable  indignation,  that  they  should 
thus  hold  it  and  impede  its  ownership  and  cultivation  by  work- 
ingmen, and  the  consequent  growth  of  the  Island  in  population 
and  wealth. 

Now  and  then  we  would  pass  fields  dr  patches  of  Red  Clover.  It 
grows  well  but  it  did  not  at  first  bear  seed  and  perpetuate  itself. 
This  was  an  anomaly  hard  to  account  for,  till  the  great  Darwin 
suggested  that  there  were  no  winged  creatures  in  New  Zealand  to 
bear  the  Pollen  from  blossom  to  blossom,  and  thus  fructify  the 
growth.  The  common  Honey  Bee  cannot  use  them,  and  there  are 
no  Humble  Bees  here — one  of  whose  functions  with  us  is  to  thus 
perpetuate  our  most  beautiful  and  beneficent  of  grasses.  This  will 
be  interesting  to  our  Friend  Henry  Slagle  to  know.  Thus,  the  Red 
Clover  could  only  be  perpetuated  in  these  Islands  by  the  importation 
of  foreign  seeds ; it  from  these,  grows  well,  and  flourishes.  But 
now,  the  Humble  Bee  is  doing  its  work,  as  promised  by  the  famous 
Scientist. 

At  one  of  the  Stations,  we  bought  boxes  of  excellent  Strawberries, 
and  enjoyed  them  greatly. 

From  the  Oxford  Station  we  rode  to  this  Hotel,  about  half  a 
mile,  in  Stages.  There  were  twelve  or  thirteen  of  us — a considerable 
number — mostly  English  and  Scotch.  We  had  a good  Dinner.  I 
wrote  this  much  and  will  now  go  to  Bed. 

I ought  to  have  told  you,  that  Mr.  Mitchell,  Minister  of  Native 
Affairs  and  Works  under  the  Government,  similar  to  our  Secretary 
of  the  Interior,  came  up  with  several  gentlemen,  and  invited  me  to 
join  him  in  his  special  private  car ; which  I politely  declined,  not 
thinking  it  right  to  desert  my  Friends,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Malfroy,  who 
have  been  so  attentive  and  courteous  to  me,  aud  who  expressed  a 
desire  to  point  out  the  objects  of  interest  on  the  way,  and  who  faith- 
fully, and  much  to  my  gratification  and  profit,  did  so. 


138 


LETTER  NO.  11. 


Ohinemutu,  Lake  House, 

Saturday,  February  8,  1890. 

We  left  Oxford  in  the  Coach  this  morning  at  half-past  eight,  and 
reached  here  not  long  after  mid-day — distance  thirty-two  miles.  I 
took  my  seat  with  the  Driver,  that  I might  avoid  the  dust  and  enjoy 
the  outlook.  A Lady  occupied  the  third  seat  on  the  front  by  my 
side.  I suggested  to  her  to  take  the  outside,  and  I taking  the  middle, 
would  hold  the  umbrella  over  both — to  which  she  I'eadily  assented. 
She  was  a handsome  English  Lady,  who  had  spent  her  life  in  New 
Zealand,  and  knowing  the  Country  well,  made  herself  both  profitable 
and  agreeable.  She  was  well  educated,  and  when  not  discussing  the 
Country,  we  were  talking  Literature  and  Art.  Under  such  auspices, 
neither  of  us  wanting  a tongue,  time  passed  rapidly.  From  our  high 
perch,  no  dust  assailed  us ; the  umbrella  kept  ofiF  the  Sun,  and  the 
motion  of  the  rapidly  moving  Coach,  stirred  the  atmosphere  into  a 
breeze. 

The  road  lay  through  the  Bush,  so-called, — but  little  cleared  land 
anywhere ; the  open  Country  filled  with  noxious  growths : the  Tea 
Plant,  of  which  I have  spoken,  the  Scotch  Thistle,  the  Sweet  Briar — 
both  introduced  by  the  Foreigner  and  now  vicious  weeds — the  latter 
called  the  Missionary  Plant,  because  those  worthy  people,  in  the 
innocency  of  their  hearts,  thought  they  were  bringing  in  a precious 
flower  with  the  more  precious  virtues  of  their  Faith ; and  the  New 
Zealand  Fern,  which  is  a most  vigorous  growth,  and  in  many  places 
occupied  every  foot  of  the  ground  for  hundreds  of  acres.  Some- 
times, we  came  to  the  stumps  or  gaunt  figures  of  burnt  forests — once 
evidently  fine  trees — and  the  crisp  remnants  of  the  smaller  growths, 
of  which  I have  spoken,  or  the  fires  still  burning  in  both,  filling  the 
air  with  smoke.  Fire  in  New  Zealand,  as  in  many  of  our  own  forest 
regions,  has  been  and  still  is  a fiend.  Often,  however,  the  sides  of 
the  Mountains  were  covered  with  luxuriant  trees,  interspersed  with 
beautiful  specimens  of  the  Fern;  the  Papa,  an  interesting  species  of 
vegetation,  beginning  a vine,  winding  itself  abont  the  tree,  converting 
itself  into  a parasite,  absorbing  the  vigor  and  life  of  its  support,  and 
having  finally  destroyed  it,  standing  alone,  and  becoming  itself  a tree. 

Some  time  before  reaching  Ohinemutu,  from  the  heights  we  saw 
it  in  the  distance,  and  the  bright  waters  of  Lake  Rotorua  spread  out 


ROTORUA. 


139 


in  the  sunlight.  The  town  stands  upon  its  Shore,  and  the  back 
portico  of  this  Hotel  overlooks  it.  Driving  rapidly  in,  we  were  soon 
comfortably  quartered.  The  Lady  who  rode  with  me  and  I here 
parted,  she  going  on  to  Whakarewarewa,  where  she  is  at  present 
staying — two  miles  and  a half  further.  She  gave  me  her  card — Mrs. 
Walter  Shrimpton,  Metapiro,  Napier,  Hawke’s  Bay,  New  Zealand. 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Malfroy  went  on  to  their  home  at  Rotorua,  a few 
hundred  yards  further.  Rotorua  is  the  Government  Station  of  the 
District,  where  are  the  Public  Buildings  and  Sanatarium,  of  which 
Mr.  Malfroy  is  the  officer  in  charge.  My  Scotch  Friends,  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  Sturrock,  stopped  with  me. 

After  Lunch,  we  took  a Guide,  whom  our  Excursion  Ticket  pro- 
vided for  us,  and  visited  the  Mahori  Pah  or  Village  nearby  the  town. 
Their  habitations  are  of  the  humblest  character,  built  of  wattled  twigs 
or  switches  interwoven  with  grass,  and  covered  with  the  same;  some- 
times, the  walls  are  more  substantially  built  of  wood,  but  in  any 
aspect,  they  are  simple  huts — called  in  native  lingo,  whares.  In  the 
Village  there  stands  a native  meeting-house,  now  occupied  by  the 
Catholics,  especially  interesting  for  the  carved  wooden  figures  of 
ancient  make,  representing,  the  Guide  said,  the  ancestry  of  these 
unfortunate  people,  who  here  in  their  House  of  Worship  represent 
the  pathetic  story  of  their  lives — unable  to  grasp  the  Faith  of  the 
Conqueror,  unwilling  to  give  up  their  own — between  the  two,  simply 
lapsing  out  of  existence.  Behind  the  Altar,  there  is  a Bust  of  Queen 
Victoria ; I thought  it,  at  first,  au  Image  of  the  Virgin. 

We  then  went  to  see  our  Friends,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Malfroy — not 
far  off.  They  live  in  a nice  and  comfortable  home,  and  gave  us  a 
cordial  greeting  and  walked  with  us  into  Rotorua,  and  showed  us  the 
Public  Baths — gotten  up  by  Mr.  Malfroy,  and  highly  creditable  to  the 
place  and  to  his  ingenuity.  Just  returned  from  the  Paris  Exposition, 
and  from  an  extensive  tour  of  Europe,  during  which  he  visited  most 
of  the  Baths  upon  the  Continent,  he  says  in  Mineral  and  thermal 
properties  he  saw  none  to  surpass  these  waters  in  virtue  or  volume. 

We  then  took  Coach,  to  go  to  Whakarewarewa,  two  miles  distant, 
to  see  the  Geysers.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Malfroy  kindly  went  as  our  Guide. 
He  has  taken  a great  interest  in  them,  and  is  trying  to  make  around 
one  of  them  a Terrace,  artificially  aiding  Nature  in  its  formation.  I 
again  occupied  the  seat  by  the  Driver.  Two  others — an  Englishman 
and  his  Daughter — wishing  also  to  ride  there,  the  Driver  saying  the 


140 


LETTER  NO.  11. 


drive  was  short  and  a good  road,  he  would  stand  up  and  we  could 
fill  the  whole  seat.  We  had  hardly  started,  when  passing  through 
a Gateway  a puff  of  wind  closed  rapidly  one  of  the  Gates.  The 
Coach  wheel  struck  it,  and  the  concussion  tossed  the  Driver  across 
the  Dashboard ; he  fell  over  on  the  horses  and  his  feet  flew  up  almost 
into  my  face.  I caught  him  by  the  heels,  and  with  that  help,  he 
being  a strong  man,  soon  righted  himself  and  regained  control  over 
the  alarmed  horses.  In  the  meantime,  the  Englishman  who  occupied 
the  opposite  outside  seat  was  hurled  off,  and  his  Daughter  followed 
him,  being  thrown  from  the  high  position  she  occupied  heavily  to 
the  ground.  I thought  her  neck  was  broken.  But  her  father  falling 
on  his  hands  and  knees  in  the  thick  dust  was  not  hurt  and  soon 
gathered  himself,  and  picking  the  young  Lady  up,  others  came  to 
his  help,  and  it  was  found  that  she  was  but  very  slightly  injured. 
I,  iu  the  meantime,  with  my  usual  good  fortune,  came  off  happily. 
I retained  my  seat ; how,  I cannot  tell.  I suppose  my  one  arm, 
involuntarily,  did  good  staying  service.  On  such  occasions,  my  well- 
preserved  nervous  organization  always  eomes  to  my  relief,  and  I am 
able  to  contain  myself  till  the  danger  be  overpast. 

We  came  thence  safely  to  the  Hotel  at  Whakarewarewa,  and  getting 
out  walked  to  the  site  of  the  Geysers,  only  a few  hundred  yards  away 
and  in  full  view.  They  are  among  the  Lava  Rocks,  like  those  in  the 
Yellowstone  Park.  There  are  three  more  distinguished  than  the 
others ; Weikato — in  the  Mahori  tongue,  literally.  Seeing  Water — 
which  performed  whilst  we  were  there — rather  a Fountain  than  a 
Geyser,  with  a throw  of  fifteen  to  twenty  feet  in  height ; Wairoa — 
Long  Water — which  simply  roared  without  any  eruption,  but  when  in 
action,  of  thirty  or  forty  feet ; and  Pohatu — the  name  of  a famous 
chief — the  finest  on  the  ground,  and  which  I was  anxious  to  see,  that 
I might  compare  it  with  those  in  the  Yellowstone.  But  whilst  we 
waited  till  dark  and  it  gave  numerous  signs  of  coming  action,  none 
came,  and  I was  disappointed.  Mr.  Malfroy  says  it  throws  to  the 
height  of  fifty  or  sixty  feet.  You  see  how  insignificant  iu  comparison 
with  the  wonders  of  the  Yellowstone  Park,  of  which  I told  you 
on  the  Fourth  Tour.  He  is  trying  to  form  a Terrace  around  the 
Weikato,  and  is  succeeding  admirably — much  Silica  having  been 
deposited  during  his  twelve  months  absence  and  quite  a handsome 
affair  already  formed. 

We  returned  to  the  Hotel  about  seven  o’clock. 


MOKOIA  ISLAND. 


141 


Same  Place  and  Hotel, 

Sunday,  February  9,  1890. 

Another  busy  day,  consumed  in  vistiting  Tiketeri — eleven  miles 
away. 

This  time  we  crossed  Lake  Rotorua,  taking  a diminutive  Steam 
Launch  at  the  foot  of  the  elevation  on  which  the  Hotel  stands,  and 
stopping  a little  more  than  half-way  across  at  the  Mokoia  Island. 
We  got  out  here  and  walked  to  see  the  curiosities : first,  not  far  from 
the  Shore,  to  see  Hinemoa’s  Bath — a Pool  of  hot  water.  The  story 
goes  that  Hiuemoa,  the  beautiful  Daughter  of  a Mahori  Chief  who 
lived  upon  the  mainland,  fell  in  love  with  Tutanekai,  a young 
Mahori  hero,  who  lived  upon  the  Island.  The  course  of  her  love 
did  not  run  smooth,  for  her  crabbed  father,  who  did  not  admire  her 
choice,  forbade  the  banns.  One  day  she  swam  across ; but  no  sooner 
had  she  landed  at  Tutanekai’s  home,  than  her  modest  fears  overcame 
her  and  she  hid  herself  in  a Pool  under  a shelving  Rock  which  bounds 
its  water — and  here  stand  the  Pool  and  Rock  to  this  day  in  witness 
of  the  story.  Tutanekai’s  slave  came  to  the  Pool  and  saw  the  lovely 
creature  thus  hid  away  and  in  trepidation  ran  and  told  his  master, 
who  forthwith  went  down  and  carried  her  in  triumph  to  his  home 
and  defied  the  irate  father,  with  Mahori  pluck  and  club.  Another 
case  of  Hero  and  Leander. 

We  then  visited  the  Mahori  Pah  and  Wharfs,  and  found  them 
such  as  I have  hitherto  described  : dirt  floors,  no  furniture  of  any  sort, 
rush  beds  upon  the  bare  ground,  no  evidence  of  comfort  anywhere. 
In  one  a Pig,  tied  by  the  leg  to  a pin  in  the  floor,  was  the  only 
evidence  of  occupancy ; at  the  end  of  his  tether  he  seemed  to  have 
made  his  bed  upon  his  master’s  cot.  This  is  the  best  the  poor  Mahoris 
can  do  after  generations  of  example  and  instruction.  They  are  a good 
looking  people  yet,  and  many  of  their  men  and  women  are  big  and 
strong.  But  their  faces  bear  few  traces  of  intelligence,  and  apathy 
and  their  fate  only  are  written  there.  The  fittest — who  are  not  they — 
must  in  God’s  decree  survive.  They  are  of  darkish  brown  color — 
brunette — with  abundant  suits  of  straight,  coal-black  hair. 

We  then  went  to  see  the  rough  figure  of  one  of  their  Gods,  brought, 
they  claim,  by  their  ancestors  from  the  Fijian  Islands,  when  they 
emigrated  thence  centuries  ago.  I told  one  of  them  he  was  mis- 


142 


LETTER  NO.  11. 


taken  in  the  spot;  his  ancestors  were  not  Fijians,  rather  Samoans  or 
Tongaris.  That  simply  upset  his  feeble  intellect ; for  he  had  never 
so  much  as  heard  of  those  two  Islands,  and  he  looked  dazed,  and 
stood  with  open  mouth  and  stupid  air,  having  nothing  more  to  say. 
The  figure  is  evidently  very  ancient  and  of  the  rudest  workmanship, 
and  worn  by  ten  thousand  storms;  they  have  it  in  a nicely  finished 
structure,  framed  and  weather-boarded  and  painted,  in  the  fashion  of  a 
Tomb,  and  appear  to  guard  it  tenderly,  notwithstanding  the  mission- 
ary and  his  teachings. 

During  this  steam  and  walk,  I escorted  the  young  Lady  who  fell 
from  the  Coach  yesterday.  She  told  me  she  was  not  much  hurt.  A 
good  looking  and  cultivated  English  girl  she  is,  and  pleasant  to 
wander  with.  She  told  me  her  name — Freeman,  and  her  father  a 
Civil  Engineer — well-to-do,  for  this  is  her  sixth  extensive  Tour  and 
she  evidently  has  appreciated  them.  Leaving  the  Island,  we  steamed 
to  the  farther  shore,  and  there  took  Stage  and  drove  to  Tiketeri — 
three  miles  further.  I took  the  box  again  and  wanted  the  young 
Lady  by  my  side,  regardless  of  her  tumble  yesterday;  but  my  broad- 
Scotch  Friend  was  too  smart  and  cut  her  out,  taking  it  himself. 

Before  reaching  Tiketeri,  a mile  or  two  away,  we  saw  its  site- 
marked  by  the  smoke  arising  from  its  caldrons — around  and  upon 
the  summit  of  a cliff.  When  we  arrived,  we  found  the  sights  : pits 
of  boiling  mud — sputtering  and  making  much  ado.  They  were  all  of 
the  same  consistency,  and  performed  much  the  same  evolutions;  the 
hot  air  below  would  swell  them  into  bubbles,  which  would  burst,  and 
then  repeat  the  process.  One  was  very  large  and  was  moi’e  violent 
and  threw  fountains  of  liquid  mud  high  into  the  air.  There  was, 
also,  a pool  of  boiling  water,  which  in  its  peculiar  work  and  violence 
of  action,  probably  surpassed  anything  I saw  in  the  Yellowstone. 

When  we  had  seen  enough,  we  went  to  a Native  Whare — especially 
provided  for  travellers  and  was  nice  and  clean — and  there  took  our 
Lunch.  After  which  we  started  on  our  return — the  whole  eleven 
miles  by  Coach.  This  time  another  English  Lady  who  was  along, 
asked  my  Scotch  F riend  to  allow  her  to  take  his  seat  on  the  Driver’s 
Box.  He  could  not  refuse,  and  asking  her  permission,  I kept  the 
middle  seat.  We  talked  briskly,  and  I found  her  not  pretty,  but 
heady  and  cultivated.  We  talked  much  of  England  and  America, 
and  I told  her  what  I thought  of  her  Country  and  its  People  and 
Institutions : the  eulogiums  she  enjoyed ; the  strictures  philosophi- 


WHAKAREWAREWA. 


143 


cally  bore,  and  said  if  I would  visit  her  in  her  English  home,  she 
would  show  me  people  who  would,  she  was  sure,  much  modify  and 
mollify  some  of  the  strictures.  Her  husband  was  along ; but  appeared 
to  be  a harmless  man,  whom  she  cared  for.  I learned  it  was  Lady 
Mannering  and  her  husband.  Sir  Philip. 

We  reached  the  Hotel  at  half-past  four  o’clock,  after  a pleasant 
day — though  dust  prevailed  and  my  umbrella  alone  prevented  suffer- 
ing from  the  Sun. 

Same  Place  and  Hotel, 

Monday,  February  10,  1890. 

This  morning  when  I got  up  the  Sky  was  overcast,  and  betokened 
rain.  It  rained  a pretty  hard  shower  yesterday  evening  and  settled 
thoroughly  the  dust,  preparing  things  for  a delightful  experience  to- 
day. In  a little  while  after  I was  out,  it  began  and  promised  more ; 
but  travellers  cannot  stop  for  the  weather,  and  we  determined  to 
carry  out  our  Programme: — a visit  to  Waiotapu  Valley — twenty 
miles  distant.  The  party  were  Mr.  Freeman  and  his  Daughter,  Mr. 
and  Mrs.  Sturrock,  and  myself.  We  went  in  a Stage  and  three 
horses.  It  began  to  rain  afresh  before  we  started,  and  continued 
more  or  less  the  entire  journey — but  never  very  hai’d  ; the  dust  was 
settled,  and  the  road  a good  one. 

We  passed  Whakarewarewa,  and  fortunately  Pohatu,  the  finest 
Geyser,  was  in  action,  in  compensation  for  our  vain  waiting  the  other 
day.  It  is,  to  one  who  has  not  seen  the  Yellowstone,  an  imposing 
afiPair,  but  is  dwarfed  by  the  memory  of  one  who  has.  My  Friend 
had  never  seen  a Geyser,  and  enjoyed  the  phenomenon  immensely. 
But  the  Geysers  are  not  at  all  equal  to  ours. 

The  Country  through  which  we  passed  was  a great  waste — the 
hills  and  mountains  possessed  by  Fern,  and  other  small  growths — 
not  a human  habitation  upon  the  way.  We  came,  at  eighteen  miles, 
to  what  our  Driver  called  a Bungalow — two  tents — one  occupied  by 
a Mr.  Scott,  who  kept  it  for  travellers,  he  himself  being  the  Guide 
for  Thomas  Cook  & Co.,  the  famous  Tourist  agents.  We,  too,  had 
a Guide  with  us,  who  accompanied  us  on  horseback — Guide  for  Hays 
& Co.,  on  whose  tickets  I am  travelling  to  Napier.  We  did  not  stop, 
but  drove  on  two  miles  further  and  dismounted,  to  visit  the  scenes 
for  which  we  had  come. 


144 


LETTER  NO.  11. 


We  saw  them  smoking  along  a considerable  length  some  distance 
off.  It  was  at  this  time  raining  quite  hard,  and  it  became  a question 
with  ns  whether  we  would  venture  through  the  grass  and  fern,  being 
quite  well  assured  that  it  was  with  the  certainty  of  getting  wet.  But 
having  come  thus  far,  we  resolved,  like  good  travellers,  to  keep  on 
to  the  end.  I had  my  India  Rubber  overcoat  that  I bought  in  Auck- 
land, now  coming  well  in  play,  and  my  umbrella.  It  was  a walk 
of  at  least  five  miles  going  and  coming,  and  a rough  one,  especially 
for  the  Ladies.  But  they  bore  it  bravely,  and  we  were  all  compen- 
sated by  the  Pools  and  Springs  and  Fumaroles,  and  especially  one 
Terrace,  now  forming,  which  they  hope  will  rival  the  wonderful  ones 
destroyed  a few  years  ago,  that  robbed  New  Zealand  of  her  greatest 
and  most  famous  curiosity.  These  Pools  and  Fumaroles  and  Terraces 
extend  a long  distance,  marked  to  us  from  the  Coach  by  their  steam 
and  smoke,  and  seemed  nearer  than  they  were.  The  walk,  going  and 
coming,  as  I have  said,  was  not  less  than  five  miles;  and  through 
fern  and  grass  and  scrub,  or  over  lava  and  other  volcanic  deposits, 
drenched  with  the  continuously  falling  rain.  When  we  returned 
to  the  Coach,  my  feet  were  wet,  but  my  India  Rubber  coat  and 
umbrella  protected  my  person ; the  latter  of  which  also  did  good 
service  for  my  young  English  Lady  Friend,  whom  I gallantly 
escorted  and  for  which  I received  many  thanks. 

Reaching  the  Coach  on  our  return,  we  came  to  the  Bungalow, 
where  Mr.  Scott  cordially  received  us.  The  Proprietor  of  the  Hotel 
had  fixed  us  up  a Lunch ; but  Mr.  Scott  had  a pot  of  Tea  made  for 
us,  for  which  he  refused  to  receive  any  compensation,  telling  me  he 
had  seen  the  notice  of  my  arrival  in  the  Auckland  Papers,  and  was 
delighted  to  greet  me  in  his  home.  Indeed,  in  passing,  you  will  be 
amused  and  entertained  to  know,  that  the  send-off  I received  from 
the  press  on  my  arrival  not  only  made  me  out  a greater  and  more 
distinguished  man  than  I ever  hoped,  or  expected  to  be,  but  made 
known  that  I had  come,  to  the  people  of  the  Island,  and  everywhere 
I am  recognized  and  welcomed.  The  Proprietor  of  the  Hotel  said  he 
wished  his  rooms  were  better,  that  he  might  more  appropriately  enter- 
tain so  distinguished  a visitor.  How  can  one  know  how  important 
he  is — thinking  humbly  of  himself — unless  others  tell  him? 

Whilst  we  rested  in  the  Tent,  the  skies,  in  sympathy  for  us,  cleared 
themselves  of  clouds,  and  the  remnant  of  the  day  was  lovely.  Under 
such  happy  auspices,  our  host  said  he  would  go  half  a mile  on  our 


WAIOTAPU  VALLEY. 


145 


way  homewards,  and  ascend  with  us  on  foot  a small  mountain — 
called  Pakehem,  I think — and  thence  view  the  scene  of  the  famous 
eruption  of  June,  1886,  by  which  many  native  lives  were  lost  and  a 
young  English  Tourist,  Bainbridge — over  whom  not  far  from  hei’e 
in  the  Cemetery,  a handsome  monument  has  been  erected.  You  will 
recall  that  fierce  convulsion,  occurring  at  the  time  of  the  one  in  Java, 
of  which  I told  you  on  my  visit  there  not  long  thereafter.  Both  were 
most  destructive: — this  more  serious  far  to  New  Zealand  than  that  to 
Java;  for  it  utterly  swept  away  the  Vfhite  and  Pink  Terraces,  that 
in  their  kind,  and  exquisite  beauty  had  no  rival  on  the  earth — of  these 
Islands,  the  glory  and  the  pride.  From  our  high  position,  Mr.  Scott 
with  chart  and  glass  pointed  out  the  site  they  occupied,  now  a scene 
of  desolation.  A little  mountain  was  blown  away,  and  the  spot  where 
it  stood  is  now  a cavernous  opening  through  which  mud  and  scoriae 
and  ashes  were  thrown,  covering  the  Country  around.  The  Potom- 
ahaua  Lake,  on  either  side  of  which  the  Terraces  stood,  sank  into 
the  earth,  leaving  only  a frightful  gorge ; the  White  Terrace  was 
converted  into  a waste  of  mud  and  ashes;  the  Pink,  now  from  its 
former  site,  sends  up  volumes  of  sulphurous  smoke.  Sodom  and 
Gomorrah,  Herculaneum  and  Pompeii,  met  no  more  sudden,  com- 
plete, and  fearful  fate.  It  was  very  kind  in  Mr.  Scott  to  show  and 
explain  to  us  this  interesting  place  and  story,  with  which  his  intelli- 
gence and  observation  has  made  him  familiar. 

Our  ride  back  over  the  dust-settled  road,  with  the  atmosphere 
purified  by  the  rain,  was  full  compensation  for  the  inhospitable 
morning.  There  was  a threatened  accident,  however,  which  would 
in  a moment  have  converted  our  pleasure  into  pain.  The  road  is  a 
good  one,  but  in  many  places  rounding  the  hills  and  mountains,  too 
narrow.  Driving  along,  our  leader,  not  accustomed  to  the  place,  ran 
too  near  the  edge ; the  earth,  softened  by  the  rain,  gave  way,  and  for 
a moment  I thought  our  fate  was  sealed.  Preserving  our  presence 
of  mind,  or  instinctively  all  leaning  inward,  sitting  next  I urged  the 
Driver  to  pull  to  the  right,  and  by  vigorous  effort  he  drew  the  horses 
from  the  precipice  and  the  Stage  was  righted  on  solid  ground — a few 
inches  further  and  we  would  have  been  tumbled  down  the  Mountain 
a hundred  feet  or  more.  But  all  is  well  that  ends  well — as  did  our 
excursion  to  Waiotapu  Valley.  The  Sun,  in  seeming  congratulation, 
made  the  Sky  glorious  for  us  as  we  drew  near  home. 

10 


146 


LETTER  NO.  11. 


Mr.  and  Mrs.  Malfroy  called  to  see  me  in  the  evening,  and  we  had 
much  pleasant  talk ; they  have  been  very  courteous  and  kind  and  I 
am  sorry  my  unceasing  movements  have  prevented  my  seeing  more  of 
them.  He  says  he  will  send  me  a box  of  specimens. 

I bought  to-day  a fine  carved  Mahori  War  Club.  It  is  of  whale 
bone,  and  belonged  to  a Mahori  Chief  of  the  olden  time ; there  are 
very  few  of  them  left  in  the  Country  now : the  curio-hunters  have 
gathered  them  up. 

Wairakei,  New  Zealand, 

Mrs.  Graham’s  Hotel, 

Tuesday,  February  11,  1890. 

To  day  we  staged  it  from  Ohinemutu  to  Wairakei — fifty-two 
miles.  The  conveyance  was  an  open  atfair,  without  top,  with  two 
seats,  holding  three  each,  and  with  three  horses.  My  companions 
were  Mr.  Freeman  and  his  Daughter  and  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Sturrock — 
I occupying  the  front  seat,  with  the  Driver  on  one  side  and  Miss 
Freeman  on  the  other — with  whom  and  myself  a current  of  talk 
flowed,  interesting  me  more  than  ever  with  her  intelligence  and 
knowledge,  and  helping  to  beguile  the  long  ride. 

The  Carriage  was  an  easy  one,  the  horses  fair,  the  temperature 
delightful,  though  clear,  with  no  intensity  in  the  Sun,  and  the  road 
well-graded  and  good,  the  dust  settled  by  the  recent  rain — and  thus 
starting  at  half-past  eight  this  morning,  we  reached  here  at  half-past 
five  this  evening,  with,  to  me,  no  sense  of  fatigue. 

The  Country  was  a great  waste,  covered  with  low  ferns  and  tea 
plants  and  grapes,  with  only  a few  Mahori  settlements  the  whole 
way,  and  no  fenced  or  cultivated  areas.  These  Mahori  houses  were 
better  than  those  I have  hitherto  seen — very  humble,  one  story  affairs 
at  best,  but  built  of  wood,  framed  and  weather-boarded  after  the 
fashion  of  their  conquerors.  Advancing,  the  Landscape  became,  not 
less  barren,  but  more  picturesque;  the  mountains  growing  higher  and 
more  bulky  and  disposing  of  themselves  in  grander  style.  A little 
after  mid-day,  one,  especially,  of  pyramidal  shape  rose  before  us, 
seemingly  barring  the  way.  The  Waikato  came  in  sight,  with  its 
pellucid  waters,  coursing  rapidly,  and  rounding  the  Mountain,  we 
crossed  the  Bridge  which  spans  the  River  and  drew  up  at  Ateamuri 
— a stopping  place  where  we  lunched — thirty-two  miles  from  Ohin- 
emutu. This  is  the  finest  site  upon  the  Road.  From  the  Hotel 


WAIRAKEL 


147 


Porch,  the  Pyramid  bulk  shows  grandly,  right  in  front,  standing  as 
it  were  in  a rift  of  the  broken  lower  Range,  the  River  racing  around 
it,  rivalling  in  blue  the  waters  of  the  Rhone. 

A ride  after  Lunch — in  a Carriage  of  the  same  style,  but  lighter 
build,  of  American  make,  which  they  value  greatly  here  for  their 
lightness  and  durability  and  cheapness — of  twenty  miles  brought  us 
here.  The  scenery  improved,  but  not  the  area  of  cultivation  till  we 
drove  up  to  the  spot  itself — an  oasis  in  the  waste.  Mrs.  Graham,  a 
handsome  widow — fair,  fat,  and  forty — met  us  cordially,  and  soon 
had  us  comfortably  fixed  in  our  quarters.  One  of  the  houses  is  of 
Mahori  style  of  Architecture — a Room  in  this  is  mine,  in  which  I 
am  now  writing — the  walls  and  the  ceiling,  which  is  the  roof,  are  of 
a species  of  reed,  running  upright  like  the  pipes  of  an  organ  and  stayed 
with  twine.  The  house  contains  six  or  eight  similar  rooms,  ranged 
around  a large  Dining  Saloon — the  whole  unpainted  and  the  roof 
thatched  with  grass,  altogether  a comfortable  affair.  In  front  of  my 
window  is  a Garden  of  Flowers,  and  over  the  Mountain  I see  the 
Geysers’  smoke.  My  Landlady  had  heard  of  me  before  my  arrival, 
and  showed  me  the  attention  she  appeared  to  think  my  importance 
deserves,  though  I try  to  travel 'inco^r.  and  am  modest  as  a maid ; 
doubtless  this  brings  much  of  the  attention. 

We  met  three  Mobs  of  Sheep — thus  they  call  them  here — of  three 
thousand  each ; and  beautiful  creatures  they  were,  clean  and  well-to-do. 
They  were  being  driven  to  market.  The  Herdsmen,  aided  by  numerous 
dogs,  which  seemed  to  understand  their  duty  and  rejoice  in  it. 

There  are  eight  or  ten  other  guests  here — Gentlemen  and  Ladies — 
all  English.  Indeed,  I have  not  seen  one  American  traveller  since 
I landed  in  the  Country. 

My  Lady  Mannering  and  her  gentle  Sir  Philip,  with  one  or  two 
others,  arrived  at  our  Lunch  Place,  just  before  we  left.  My  Lady  and 
I had  some  flashy  passes  before  we  parted,  in  greatest  good  humor  and 
pleasantry. 

Tausso — pronounced  Towsso — Lake  House, 

Wednesday,  February  12,  1890. 

This  morning  was  spent,  with  a guide,  in  viewing  the  wonders  of 
Wairakei — pronounced  Wairake.  We  walked  a mile  and  a half,  or 
two  miles  from  the  house.  These  wonders  consist  of  Volcanic  forces 
along  the  Valley  of  the  Wairakei  River,  an  affluent  of  the  Waikata. 


148 


LETTER  NO.  11. 


The  Valley  itself  is  one  of  the  prettiest  pieces  of  scenery  I have  seen, 
clad  in  ferns  and  rich  foliage,  and  narrow,  rising  immediately  from  the 
stream.  Along  its  sides  are  ranged  these  manifestations  of  internal 
fires,  in  the  shape  of  hot  Springs,  and  Fountains,  and  Geysers,  and 
Caldrons,  and  Mud  Holes — sputtering,  and  fuming,  and  throbbing, 
and  hammering,  and  sjjouting,  and  boiling,  and  throwing  water-jets 
restlessly.  Each  one  of  these  has  a Mahori  name,  in  their  melli- 
fluous tongue,  indicative  of  its  chai’acteristics,  like  our  own  Indian 
names,  full  of  siguificance.  But  it  would  be  folly  for  me  to  write 
them  down — you  could  not  pronounce,  and  if  you  could,  it  would  be 
wastage  to  attempt  to  remember  them. 

I have  told  you  of  similar  exhibitions  on  my  Tour  through  the 
Yellowstone  Park. 

The  walk  was  a warm  one,  without  shade  till  we  got  to  the 
Valley  ; and  then,  when  shielded  from  the  Sun,  we  had  the  steam 
and  fumes  from  the  interior  of  the  Earth,  ascending  on  every  hand 
like  the  smoke  of  furnaces  without  their  soot. 

At  four  o’clock,  in  the  afternoon,  we  came  on  to  this  place — six 
miles  over  a fine  road.  The  scenery  was  altogether  the  best  we  have 
had — up  the  Valley  of  the  River  Waikato — its  bright  green  water 
gleaming  in  snatches  upon  the  view.  We  passed  the  Huka  Falls, 
where  the  River  ruslies  joyfully  through  a Gorge  it  has  carved  for 
itself.  I would  not  call  them  Falls,  rather  Rapids,  the  water  dash- 
ing itself  into  foam  for  a length  of  three  or  four  hundred  feet 
from  an  elevation  of  probably  thirty  or  forty  through  its  channel, 
clean  cut  out  of  the  solid  Rock.  We  descended  and  viewed  it  along 
its  banks  and  from  the  Bridge,  with  which  it  has  been  spanned,  and 
I am  quite  ready  to  admit  that  it  is  a pretty  scene,  but  hardly  rival- 
ling Niagara,  as  some  of  the  provincial  Colonists  with  more  enthu- 
siasm than  truth  or  wisdom  assert. 

W^e  arrived  here  about  half-past  five  o’clock,  and  were  soon  assigned 
to  comfortable  Rooms,  together  with  a host  of  other  travellers,  at 
least  twelve  or  fifteen,  a host  for  so  small  an  Inn. 

You  ask,  doubtless,  how  this  Thermal  Region  compares  with  the 
Yellowstone?  I do  not  think  it  the  equal  of  that  Wonder  Land. 
The  Geysers  are  greatly  inferior;  rivalling  that,  in  the  volume  and 
action,  of  some  its  Fountains  and  Pools  and  Caldrons,  it  does  not 
compare  in  the  rich  and  varied  coloring  of  their  brilliant  waters;  the 
Terraces,  of  which  it  once  boasted,  must  have  been  far  superior  to 


TAUSSO. 


149 


anything  in  the  Yellowstone,  but  it  has  not  now,  nor  is  it  forming 
anything  to  surpass  or  equal  those  of  the  Mammoth  Hot  Springs  in 
that  Park.  The  Huka  Falls  are  insignificant  in  comparison  with 
the  Yellowstone  Canon  ; and  no  scene  here  approximates  the  view 
over  the  Yellowstone  Lake  and  the  Valley  of  its  River,  bounded 
afar-o£F  by  the  magnificent  Range  of  Mountains.  The  Yellowstone 
is,  like  Niagara,  Continental — this  is  Insular.  Except  the  Yellow- 
stone, I have  no  doubt,  it  has  no  rival  on  the  Globe. 

My  friends,  who  have  never  seen  anything  at  all  resembling  this, 
go  into  exstacies  over  it : I am  not  thus  atfected.  Alas!  world-wide 
Travel  tones  down  enthusiasm.  The  only  way  to  avoid  this  result, 
since  all  of  our  ideas  are  comparative,  is,  if  possible,  to  see  the  Mar- 
vels in  an  ascending  scale. 

Same  Place  and  Hotel, 

Thursday,  February  13,  1890. 

Here  I still  am,  contrary  to  my  expectations.  Last  night  I was 
affected  as  I was  in  Leipsie,  you  remember,  on  my  Second  Tour, 
when  a draught  of  wine  in  Aurback’s  Kellar  had  the  magic  effect  of 
righting  me  up.  The  water,  probably,  of  this  Mineral  Region  stirred 
me,  and  there  was  no  wine  from  that  famous  Kellar  hereabouts  to  be 
relied  on  to  still  the  trouble.  This  morning  I felt  it  would  be  inju- 
dicious to  take  a long  Stage  ride  of  fifty  miles,  and  thinking  preven- 
tion better  than  cure,  I resolved  to  halt  and  allow  Nature  time  to 
reassert  herself. 

This  conclusion,  though  wise,  was  not  in  accordance  with  my 
wishes.  I wanted  to  go  on ; and  my  Scotch  and  English  friends 
seemed  disappointed,  like  myself.  Though  thoroughly  unlike,  the 
former  in  their  native  broad-Scotch  state,  the  latter  cultivated,  we  all 
travelled  on  together  in  pleasant  accoi’d.  The  good,  solid  old  Scotch 
wife  often  remarked  that  the  English  girl  was  “a  fine  young  Leddie,” 
to  which  I yielded  ready  assent.  The  more  I saw  of  her,  the  more 
impressed  I was  with  her  good  sense  and  culture.  The  liking  seemed 
between  us  all  to  be  mutual,  and  many  regrets  were  spoken  when  we 
parted — each  hoping  we  would  meet  again  upon  our  travels.  I 
hardly  think  that  probable,  though  I should  not  by  any  means  object. 

To-day  I have  simply  rested.  The  guests  of  this  little  Inn,  like 
a flock  of  Birds,  this  morning  took  their  flight,  and  I am  alone.  You 
wonder  how  lonely  I must  feel.  But  you  know  how  much  of  com- 


150 


LETTER  NO.  11. 


pany  I am  unto  myself ; and  then  I can  put  my  thoughts  upon  the 
wing  and  be  among  you,  or  I can  gather  you  all  about  me,  as  I do 
now.  To  get  here,  I have  travelled  in  distance  half  around  the 
world — but  thoughts  and  atfection  defy  space,  and  clean  obliterate  it. 

I have  a nice,  comfortable  Room,  and  lifting  my  eyes  from  the 
paper  on  which  I write,  they  rest  upon  Lake  Tausso — twenty-four 
miles  long  by  fifteen  wide,  the  largest  of  New  Zealand’s  Waters — a 
lovely  sight,  sparkling  beneath  the  Sun.  As  I had  to  stop,  it  could 
not  have  been  in  a more  desirable  place.  But  for  the  hazy  distance, 
I could  Southward  see  across  it,  Tongariro,  Uganruhoe  and  Ruapehu 
— striking  Mountains — the  second  an  active  Volcano,  with  smoking 
chimney;  the  last  rearing  itself  into  the  domain  of  perpetual  snow. 
I hope  the  haze  will  lift  and  let  them  show  themselves  with  the 
majesty  it  is  said  they  can. 

In  the  Evening,  when  the  Sun  was  low,  I strolled  to  a spot,  a few 
hundred  yards  off,  where  the  Lake  makes  its  exit  Northward  by  the 
Waikato  River.  This  River  mainly  helps  to  make  the  Lake,  and 
then  at  its  further  end  drains  it  to  the  Ocean  on  New  Zealand’s 
Western  Coast — like  the  Rhone  when  it  makes  and  drains  Geneva, 
but  not  equal  to  that  River  in  the  splendor  and  volume  of  its  flow. 
This  comes  out  quietly  with  little  fall,  scarce  more  than  the  gentle 
current  of  the  Lake  itself — that,  careering  with  resistless  speed, 
rejoicing  in  its  might  and  beauty. 

The  day  has  gone  most  pleasantly.  I,  quiet  in  my  Room  or  loung- 
ing on  the  Portico  in  the  front  on  which  it  opens,  enjoying  the  out- 
look over  Tausso’s  Waters  and  the  Mountains  which  environ  them. 
The  Sun  is  hot,  but  in  the  shade  there  is  always  freshness  in  the  air. 
There  are  a few  residences  at  magnificent  distances  around,  among 
them  a Post  Office,  Telegraph  Station,  and  Government  Money 
Order,  Savings  Bank  and  Insurance  Office,  all  in  one.  The  other 
places  at  which  I have  stopped  since  leaving  Ohinemutu  are  nothing 
more  than  Public  Inns  and  Staging  Stations. 

Taraweea,  New  Zealand, 

Friday,  February  14,  1890. 

I rose  this  morning  myself  again ; the  day  and  night’s  rest  had 
brought  things  right ; a personal  diagnosis  of  my  case  satisfied  me 
that  I did  not  need  one  of  Taylor’s  Bombs,  that  have  stood  me  such 


TARAWERA. 


151 


good  service  so  often  in  many  Countries  of  the  World.  I therefore 
trusted  to  Nature’s  vis  medicatrix. 

I was  ready  at  the  appointed  hour,  half-past  seven  o’clock  this 
morning,  I was  the  only  passenger  from  the  Hotel  at  Tausso.  There 
were  three  others,  the  Driver  told  me,  from  Joshua’s,  a place  of 
Eesort  two  miles  away.  I determined  to  drive  over  with  him  and 
see  it,  having  nothing  else  to  do.  On  my  arrival  there  the  proprietor, 
said  to  be  an  Israelite,  a good  looking,  energetic  fellow,  came  out  to 
bid  me  welcome,  and  insisted  upon  my  getting  down  and  walking 
over  his  grounds,  which  I cheerfully  agreed  to  do.  I found  his 
Resort  consisted  of  Cottages  scattered  about  a Grove,  after  the  fashion 
of  our  Watering  Places,  everything  comfortable  and  in  order — alto- 
gether the  most  attractive  spot  of  the  sort  I have  seen  in  New 
Zealand.  He  is  going  still  to  expense,  building  a large  Whare 
ornamented  with  Native  Carvings,  which  he  has  from  time  to 
time  obtained  at  great  expense  from  the  Natives,  and  Hot  and 
Cold  Bath  Houses,  all  of  which  he  showed  me,  and  took  manifest 
pleasure  in  doing  it. 

Whilst  wandering  I met  Sir  Philip  Mannering,  and  inquired  for 
the  Lady.  He  told  me  she  had  gone  out  riding.  I told  him  he 
must  give  her  my  best  wishes  and  say,  that  I was  in  hopes  she  was 
going  on,  for  we  had  not  at  all  finished  our  talk ; I had  much  and 
many  things  more  upon  which  I should  be  glad  to  exchange  views 
with  her.  He  said  he  regretted  greatly  she  was  out,  for  he  was  sure 
she  would  be  pleased  to  meet  me  again  before  she  left  the  Island, 
which  they  were  now  about  to  do,  and  we  parted,  I leaving  my 
salutations  for  her. 

Our  three  passengers  were  young  Englishmen,  who  live  in  Christ- 
church, you  will  find  on  the  East  Coast  of  the  Middle  Island.  They 
took  the  back  seat,  politely  surrendering  the  front,  by  the  Driver,  to 
me.  They  turned  out  to  be  quiet,  gentlemanly  fellows,  and  made 
themselves  agreeable  the  entire  journey.  Tell  Mary,  the  girls  would 
have  said,  they  were  sure  enough  English,  and  awful  nice. 

We  had  to  retraverse  our  steps  to  Tausso,  and  there  I saw  the 
Px’oprietor  and  his  wife,  who  came  out  to  give  me  Good-Bye ! and 
show  me  a Feather  Mantle — the  feathers  of  the  Kiwi  Bird — worked 
by  the  Mahoris ; not  unlike  in  its  textiu'e  to  those  I told  you  of  in 
the  Sandwich  Islands,  though  made  of  dark  instead  of  golden  feathers, 
and  not  equal  in  beauty.  In  parting  I thanked  them  for  their  kind 


152 


LETTER  NO.  11. 


attention  during  my  enforced  sojourn,  and  to  the  servant  I gave  what 
was  of  more  substantial  value  than  simple  thanks. 

Our  ride  here  was  fifty  miles,  stopping  half  way  to  Lunch  about 
mid-day.  Before  Lunch  it  was  through  the  same  dreary  waste  of 
Country  I have  hitherto  described.  We  met  a Mob  of  three  thou- 
sand Sheep,  attended  by  their  keepers  and  dogs.  The  Road  is 
uncommonly  fine  for  driving  the  entire  distance,  but  the  Driver 
tells  me  desperate  on  the  Dogs,  the  gravel  and  silex  lacerating  their 
feet  unmercifully,  so  that  frequently  they  cannot  perform  their  valua- 
ble duties,  and  the  Sheep  stray  and  are  lost  in  the  Scrub  and  Bush, 
and  they  are  compelled  to  halt. 

And  here  I must  describe  what  is  meant  by  these  terms.  The 
former  designates  land  covered  with  Fern,  Tea  trees  and  coarse 
grasses  and  weeds;  the  latter  what  we  would  call  Forest,  not  under- 
growth, which  would  be  rather  classed  as  scrub. 

We  got  a fair  Lunch  and  then  proceeded.  Whilst  here  a gentle- 
man showed  us  another  Mantle  similar  to  the  one  I have  already 
spoken  of,  save  this  was  bordered  with  white  feathers.  He  said  it 
was  worth  forty  pounds — two  hundred  dollars.  The  Country  con- 
tinued much  the  same  as  that  of  the  morning  in  its  growths,  though 
less  extended  and  open,  and  rising  into  picturesque  mountains. 
Within  eight  or  ten  miles  of  this  place,  a still  greater  change 
occurred  ; getting  into  the  Bush,  the  mountains  thickly  covered  with 
vegetation,  some  large  trees  and  the  ravines  heavily  set  in  green, 
reminding  me  of  our  Alleghany  Mountains,  though  the  growths  are 
of  species  entirely  different ; clear,  bright,  sparkling,  rapidly  flowing 
streams  flowing  through,  not  unworthy  of  comparison  with  our  own. 
We  have  passed  from  the  Domain  of  living  fire — though  the  counte- 
nance of  the  Country  indicates  that  it  once  had  its  habitation  here, 
too,  and  has  left  its  marks,  not  to  be  mistaken.  At  the  place  where 
we  lunched,  we  saw  an  area  of  a few  acres  enclosed  and  cultivated  in 
Oats — a fine  crop — showing  what  the  land  is  capable  of,  when  sub- 
jected to  the  plough. 

The  indefatigable  and  rascally  English  Sparrow  is  here  everywhere, 
having  earned  a name  quite  as  objectionable  as  with  us. 

This,  our  stopping  place,  came  in  sight  a mile  or  two  out  upon  our 
road, — seated  among  mountains  picturesquely,  with  cultivated  areas 
around  and  a sparkling  stream  flowing  near  by — an  inviting  sight  at 
the  hour  of  six,  with  the  Sun  low  in  the  Sky,  after  a day’s  long  ride 


NAPIER. 


153 


It  rained  several  showers  this  afternoon,  settling  the  dust  and 
increasing  the  pleasure  of  our  drive.  Soon  we  were  in  comfortable 
quarters  for  the  night. 

Whilst  I write,  my  young  English  Friends,  invigorated  by  the 
ride  and  walks  up  the  long  hills,  are  singing  below  with  the  Land- 
lady’s Daughters.  I will,  therefore,  now  go  to  bed  and  let  them  lull 
me  to  sleep. 

Napier,  New  Zealand, 

Masonic  Hotel, 
Saturday,  February  15,  1890. 

This  has  been  the  finest  day  of  all  in  scenic  interest.  We  left 
Tarawera  at  eight  o’clock  and  reached  here  at  half-past  five  in  the 
afternoon — fifty-two  miles.  The  day  and  the  road  were  both  fine ; 
rains  had  occurred,  which  settled  the  dust  and  cleai’ed  the  Sky  of 
smoke  and  clouds,  and  we  rattled  rapidly  in  our  same  three  horse 
Coach,  changing  teams  once,  when  we  stopped  for  Lunch  about  the 
middle  of  the  Journey, — a long  stretch,  but  drivers  seem  to  be  regard- 
less of  horse-flesh  here,  dashing  down  the  mountains,  like  they  do  in 
California,  at  break-neck  speed,  and  rounding  the  curves  with  equal 
disregard  to  the  safety  or  the  lives  of  those  they  carry. 

The  morning  was  consumed  in  ascending  and  descending  mountains, 
at  one  time  reaching  an  elevation  of  three  thousand  two  hundred  feet, 
the  highest  on  the  road  from  Auckland  to  Napier — alternate  Brush 
and  Scrub.  The  afternoon  was  more  varied  and  interesting.  Not 
far  from  onr  Lunch  place  we  entered  a Goi’ge,  the  bed  of  the  River 
Esk  and  one  of  its  affluents,  which,  in  a distance  of  eight  miles,  we 
crossed  forty-nine  times  ; but  through  shallow,  sparkling  water,  over 
gi’avelly  bottoms,  which,  with  the  vegetation  on  either  hand,  made  it 
a delightful  experience — sometimes,  the  Driver  said,  more  dangerous 
than  delightful ; when  the  waters  are  up,  they  carry  the  Stage  and 
horses  down  promiscuously.  Approaching  Napier,  for  the  first  time 
on  our  long  ride  from  Auckland,  civilization  shows  itself  abroad  in 
the  fields  and  cultivated  areas,  and  for  ten  miles  there  are  comfort- 
able, often  handsome,  homesteads  hid  in  foliage  and  sturdy  trees  : — 
lands  fenced  in  by  wire,  set  in  grain  or  grass,  with  Horses  and  Cattle 
and  Sheep — fat,  sleek,  and  numerous — convincing  you  that  New 
Zealand  can  put  on  the  airs  which  have  earned  it  the  soubriquet  of 
the  Great  Britain  of  the  South. 


154 


LETTER  NO.  11. 


The  young  Englishmen  gave  me  all  the  information  they  could. 
The  Father  of  two  of  them,  Rhodes  by  name,  owns  large  tracts  of 
thousands  of  acres  through  which  we  passed,  enclosed  by  admirable 
post  and  wire  fencing,  as  are  all  the  lands  now  owned  in  freehold, 
mainly  used  for  sheep-rauge — not  cultivated,  but  covered  principally 
with  Fern  and  Manouka,  and  a coarse  grass,  all  of  which,  when 
young,  the  sheep  and  stock  will  eat.  They  called  my  attention,  too, 
to  the  Birds  of  the  Country  that  appeared  upon  the  way  : the  New 
Zealand  Pigeon,  a good  game  bird  ; the  Pheasant,  equal  to  ours  and 
theirs ; the  indigenous  Lark,  much  like  the  Sparrow — thinner,  how- 
ever, and  of  longer  tail,  but  with  no  voice  like  its  conqueror ; the 
English  Sparrow,  the  little  wretch,  spoke  for  himself  in  numbers  and 
audacity ; approaching  Napier,  the  Swan,  rising  from  an  inlet  of 
the  Sea  on  broad-spread  wing ; and  the  English  Lark,  fluttering 
towards  the  Empyrean,  leaving  a track  of  music  in  the  air.  Fruit, 
too,  seemed  to  abound,  especially  Peaches,  not  yet  ripe ; and  Black- 
berries in  such  enormous  volume  of  growth  as  would  terrify  a farmer 
anxious  about  the  cleanliness  of  his  farm.  Such  on  mine  would  make 
me  quite  unhappy. 

Na])ier  came  in  sight  several  miles  before  we  reached  it — high  on  a 
projecting  bluff,  the  buildings  scattered  there  and  in  intervening 
recesses.  At  the  farther  end  of  a highly  cultivated  Valley  the 
Ocean  lay,  quiet  and  calm  like  the  Summer  day  this  has  been. 
The  River  Esk,  which  has  helped  to  make  our  ride  enjoyable,  keeps 
with  us  to  the  City,  beautifying  and  enriching  the  Country  of  which 
I have  spoken,  and  helping  to  make  the  Estuary,  where  Napier 
finds  her  Harbor.  Crossing  a long  narrow  Bridge  and  rounding  the 
inner  point  of  the  Peninsula,  we  drove  rapidly  through  the  City  to 
this  Hotel,  situated  in  its  heart. 

My  young  friends  made  inquiry  for  me,  and  found  that  I could 
not  get  on  to-morrow  either  by  Boat  or  Rail — none  running  on  Sun- 
day. I therefore  put  up  here  in  comfortable  quarters.  I bade  my 
young  Britishers  Good  Bye ! with  my  expressed  appreciation  of  their 
attention  and  courtesy.  One  of  them,  Mr.  Bennetts,  may  travel 
further  with  me. 

I,  first  thing,  inquired  of  my  proprietor  when  my  good  Ship 
Alameda,  you  now  know  so  well,  would  touch  at  Auckland  on  her 
way  from  Sydney  to  San  Francisco,  and  to  my  great  satisfaction 
learned  that  I would  be  enabled  to  send  this  Letter  and  catch  it 


NAPIER. 


155 


there.  I will  therefore  forthwith  bring  it  to  an  end,  and  give  it  to 
the  proprietor  to  mail.  This  will,  doubtless,  reach  you  with  the  one 
left  in  Auckland,  and  you  will  have  plenty  of  reading  matter  for 
awhile.  I hope  it  won’t  tire  you  out. 

I am  longing  for  letters,  but  none  can  reach  me  till  I get  to 
Melbourne.  This  Tour,  for  Mail  purposes,  is,  I believe,  the  worst 
I have  made.  But,  happily,  I have  found  opportunities  to  keep 
you,  quite  frequently,  advised  of  my  movements,  though  I can 
hear  so  rarely. 

Whilst  I write  a Band  and  Troupe  pass,  with  blowing  of  trum- 
pets and  singing.  I inquire  of  the  Landlady  what  it  means,  and  am 
told  it  is  that  dreadful  nuisance,  the  Salvation  Army.  They  stop  in 
front  of  the  Hotel,  and  what  they  say  and  sing  to  the  gathered  crowd 
fully  confirms  the  opinion  of  the  Landlady — a wretched  nuisance,  if 
not  worse.  I must  now  shut  up. 

With  tenderest  love  for  all, 

F. 

To  Taylor : I wrote  and  told  you  to  send  Mail  to  Melbourne.  The 
distances  are  so  vast,  and  these  Colonies  being  out  of  the  Postal 
Union,  I think  you  had  better  write,  after  the  receipt  of  this,  to  Cape 
Town,  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  Africa,  care  of  the  ‘‘  Bank  of  Africa.” 
Your  Letters  written  to  Melbourne,  in  a short  while,  cannot  overtake 
those  to  Cape  Town ; will  travel,  I hope,  the  other  way  and  meet 
me.  At  the  same  time  write  to  the  “ Bank  of  Africa,”  Cape  Town, 
and  tell  it  to  retain  my  Mail  till  my  arrival  there.  Also  notify  Charles 
and  Margaret.  Be  sure  you,  p>ut  on  the  right  stamps.  Inquire  of 
Gibson,  the  Post  Master. 

I hope  you  are  getting  on  finely  with  your  improvements.  You 
must  keep  me  advised. 


F. 


156 


LETTER  NO.  12. 


[No.  12.] 


Napier,  New  Zealand,  Masonic  Hotel, 

Sunday,  February  16,  1890. 

My  Dear  Mary, — 


I finished  No.  11  to  your  Mother,  and  before  leaving  in  the  morn- 
ing will  hand  it  to  the  Proprietor  to  forward  to  your  Uncle  Taylor, 
that  it  may  catch  in  Auckland  our  old  friend,  S.  S.  Alameda,  home- 
ward bound  from  Sidney.  Let  the  same  blessed  fortune  attend  it, 
which  Horace  invoked  for  the  Ship  which  carried  his  friend,  Msecenas  ! 

I did  not  stir  about  much  to-day.  Napier  has  nothing  specific  to 
show  the  stranger.  They  claim  for  it  a population  of  eight  or  nine 
thousand;  but  it  has  no  city  airs — the  Houses,  none  of  them  are  con- 
spicuous or  fine,  built  mainly  of  wood  and  weatherboarded,  a few  of 
Brick  or  stuccoed.  The  streets  are  well  graded — sidewalks,  the  best 
of  them,  of  asphalt.  It  is  built,  wherever  sites  may  be  found,  on  the 
high  Blutf,  or  elevations,  or  on  the  level  and  in  the  ravines  between 
them.  Those  on  the  Bluff  are  very  pretty,  embowered  in  trees,  but 
from  some  points  seem  like  the  homes  of  the  Cliff  Builders,  inac- 
cessible. 

I thought  I would  go  to  Church  to-day  ; but  the  Sun  was  blazing 
hot,  shining  unveiled  from  the  Sky,  helped  an  hundred-fold  by  the 
reflection  of  the  whitish  sand  and  soil  with  which  the  streets  are 
graded,  and  the  equally  sympathetic  black  asphalt  of  the  pavements. 
I remained  half  dressed  in  my  Room,  and  lounged,  and  napped,  and 
finished  Letter  No.  11,  and  entertained  Mr.  Bennetts,  one  of  my 
travel-friends  of  the  last  few  days,  and  a gentleman  of  this  City, 
whom  he  brought  to  see  me.  The  other  two  English  youths  had 
gone  a-boating, 

I met  at  the  table  to-day  a Scotchman,  by  the  name  of  Jardine, 
travelling  with  a Valet  for  his  health.  I had  seen  him  several  times 
in  the  country  at  different  stopping  places,  but  had  no  talk.  To-day, 
sitting  just  opposite,  we  have  had  a good  deal.  Several  of  those 
around  sat  and  listened  to  us,  and  now  and  then  joined  in.  We 
principally  discussed  the  affairs  of  our  respective  Countries.  One  of 
them  afterwards,  during  the  Evening,  said  he  had  an  Uncle  living 
in  Napier,  a man  of  culture,  and  in  bad  health,  otherwise  he 


WELLINGTON. 


157 


would  bring  him  to  see  me,  and  asked  me  if  I would  not  go  with 
him  to  his  Uncle’s  house — he  was  sure  he  would  be  delighted  to  hear 
me  talk,  and  he  thought  I would  find  great  interest  and  information 
in  him  about  New  Zealand,  where  he  had  resided  many  years.  I 
told  him  I was  complimented,  but  my  short  stay  in  Napier  forbade 
the  pleasure. 

There  is  one  of  those  Meat-Freezing  Establishments  here,  on  the 
suburbs,  that  I would  have  gone  to  see,  but  it  is  closed  on  Sun- 
day. You  know  the  transportation  of  frozen  meat  to  London  is  a 
famous  business  now,  and  their  enormous  Steamers — among  the 
largest  in  the  world — can  carry  each  a cargo  of  from  thirty  to 
forty  thousand  frozen  carcasses  of  Sheep — I am  told. 

When  the  Sun  went,  as  usual,  it  became  cooler,  and  I walked 
about  the  Town,  and  strolled  along  the  Esplanade,  faced  by  a 
fine  Sea-wall  constructed  recently.  It  guards  the  whole  front  of  the 
lower  City,  a mile  or  more,  I should  think.  Apprehension  caused 
it  to  be  built.  Sometimes  the  angry  Ocean  would  send  its  waves 
over  the  unguarded  front  and  down  the  streets.  And  even  now,  I 
should  think,  when  its  pacific  nature  is  disturbed  by  storms,  it  would 
hammer  this  wall  to  pieces.  It  was  delightful  to  walk  along  the 
Esplanade  and  enjoy  the  breeze  coming  from  its  surface  and  see 
the  waters  bounded  Eastward  by  our  own  shores,  simply  heaving 
gently,  throbbing  in  deep  but  quiet  tones  their  white  surf  along  the 
Shore,  unbrokenly.  It  was  a time  when  I wanted  no  strangers 
to  be  with  me.  With  the  breezes  and  the  waves  were  mingled 
memories  of  you  all,  that  filled  them  with  sweetest  music,  and 
gave  me  abundant  company,  though  alone. 

Wellington,  New  Zealand, 
Occidental  Hotel, 

Monday,  February  17,  1890. 

This  has  been  a busy  day  of  movement  by  several  modes : — from 
Napier  to  Woodville  by  Rail,  ninety-six  miles;  from  Woodville  to 
Palmerston  by  Stage,  seventeen  miles;  from  Palmerston  to  this  City 
by  Rail,  eighty-seven  miles — a total  of  just  two  hundred — leaving 
Napier  at  seven  o’clock  in  the  Morning  and  reaching  here  at  ten 
p.  m.  You  can  trace  me  on  the  Map  I sent. 


158 


LETTER  NO.  12. 


My  young  Friend  Mr.  Bennetts,  who  lives  in  Christchurch,  Middle 
Island,  and  is  now  on  his  way  home,  called  for  me  in  the  Omnibus, 
reserving  a seat  upon  the  Box,  to  take  me  to  the  Railroad  Station. 
His  friends  remain  in  Napier,  intending  to  return  to  their  Sheep 
Range.  Bennetts  tells  me  they  are  probably  the  wealthiest  young 
men  in  the  Islands ; their  Father  came  in  the  early  Colonial  days, 
and  made  investments  which  at  his  death  had  increased  in  value  to 
an  immense  fortune. 

Bennetts,  kind  and  attentive  as  if  I were  an  old  Friend,  bought 
me  a ticket  on  the  Rail  and  secured  me  a good  seat,  and  during  the 
ride  gave  or  gathered  me  abundant  information.  The  Country  is 
very  different  from  that  which  I have  described  in  my  travels  through 
the  Hot  Lake  Region ; rather  like  that  which  greeted  me  ten  miles 
North  of  Napier  and  accompanied  me  into  the  City — mostly  once 
forest  or  bush — but  marked  by  a ruthless  destruction  of  timber, 
rivalling  that  of  our  own  Northwest,  of  which  I gave  you  some  idea 
on  my  First  Tour.  Everywhere,  are  standing  the  stumps  of  trees 
cut  down,  the  land  already  converted  into  pasture;  or  prostrate  trees 
which  had  been  set  fire  to  and  partially  burned,  or  great  areas  of 
blackened  forms,  their  fires  gone  out  or  still  burning. 

Large  areas,  also,  had  been  reduced  to  cultivation,  principally  in 
Oats,  which  had  been  well  cut  and  admirably  secured  in  shock  and 
stack — or  enclosed  ranges  or  in  Runs,  thus  called  here — for  thousands 
of  fine  Sheep  and  hundreds  of  Cattle  and  Horses.  The  day  has  been 
uncommonly  fine  after  the  rains,  and  it  was  a beautiful  sight,  the 
lands  reaching  out  often  into  extended  Plains,  dotted  with  unpretend- 
ing, and  small,  but  comfortable  homes — one  story,  weather-boarded, 
and  generally  of  the  same  uniform  simple  style  of  Architecture. 

This  whole  region  must  have  been — when  the  white  man  came — 
almost  entirely  one  great  forest.  The  destruction  of  timber  has  been 
frightful  and  is  still  going  on  with  axe  and  fire.  But,  yet,  great 
areas  remain,  and  are  very  interesting  passing  by  them  on  Rail  or 
Stage,  their  thick  growth  interlaced  or  set  with  parasites,  and  vines — 
the  Fern  tree  standing  out  or  peeping  from  the  foliage,  and  adorn- 
ing the  front  with  their  exquisite  beauty  and  grace.  I have  never 
seen  finer,  not  even  those  that  come  to  me  in  memory  from  the 
recesses  of  the  Organ  Mountains,  on  my  little  run  out  with  Governor 
and  Mrs.  Jarvis  from  Rio  to  Nova  de  Fribourga. 


PALMERSTON. 


159 


We  lunched  at  Woodville,  and  then  took  Stage  for  Palmerston, 
through  the  Manawatu  Gorge,  one  of  the  famous  routes  in  New 
Zealand.  This  Gorge  is  made  by  the  River  of  the  same  name — a fine 
stream  of  clear  water,  now  low — often  with  a swell  of  fifty  feet,  con- 
verted into  a roaring  monster.  Through  this,  the  Government  is 
continuing  its  Railroad  at  a cost  of  forty  thousand  pounds — two 
hundred  thousand  dollars — per  mile.  The  ride  through  this  Gorge  is 
a pretty  scene,  nothing  more,  to  the  traveller  who  has  seen  those 
among  the  Alps  or  in  our  own  Country : the  rest  of  the  seventeen 
miles  to  Palmerston  is  through  a Country  not  unlike  that  I have 
hitherto  to-day  traversed  and  hastily  described — in  the  rough  now, 
but  of  future  productiveness  and  wealth.  My  kind  and  active  young 
Friend  again  secured  me  a seat  on  the  Box  by  the  Driver’ — which 
was  hard  to  get,  the  crowd  being  very  great — into  whose  good  Avill  I 
engratiated  myself,  and  gathered  from  him  much  information.  In 
describing  some  of  the  Parasites,  of  which  I have  spoken,  he  called 
my  attention  to  a straw  hat  he  wore,  made  by  the  Mahoris,  from  one 
of  its  species — equal,  it  appeared  to  me,  to  the  Panama  or  Guyaquil 
in  toughness  and  durability. 

Palmerston  is  located  upon  a Plain.  It  is  new,  said  to  contain  three 
or  four  thousand  people : laid  out  with  streets  rivalling  in  width 
Pennsylvania  Avenue  in  Washington  in  magnificent  distances.  The 
Driver  said  the  place  had  thirty-six  miles  of  streets  laid  out.  The 
houses  scattered  hundreds  of  yards  from  each  other.  I don’t  think  I 
ever  saw  a more  injudiciously  laid  out  and  built  place  for  its  present 
or  future.  When  will  these  magnificent  distances  be  filled,  consider- 
ing that  Washington,  the  Capital  of  a Continent,  contained  them  for 
a Century? 

At  the  Station  to  which  we  drove,  I saw  a good  many  Mahoris 
gathered  in  idleness.  I had  seen  very  few  along  the  Road.  They 
have  thronged  into  the  Cities,  like  their  conquerors,  for  comfort ; but 
not  like  them,  to  the  more  easily  glide  out  of  this  mundane  sphere : — 
may  the  poor  creatures  have  a happy  Hunting  Ground  somewhere  in 
store ! In  twenty  years  they  have  in  New  Zealand  shrunk,  I am 
informed,  from  a population  of  seventy-five  or  six  thousand  to  forty. 
How  much  it  was,  when  Cook  came,  we  do  not  know ; but  we  do 
know,  that  in  another  half  century  they  will  have  disappeared.  The 
last  of  the  Tasmanians,  an  old  woman,  was  gathered  to  her  Fathers 
a year  or  two  ago : the  last  of  the  Mahoris  will  soon  follow  the 


160 


LETTER  NO.  IS. 


thousands  of  their  savage  or  half-civilized  brethren  into  the  Land 
of  Shadows,  and  their  stronger  conquerors  will  fill  the  Countiy,  a 
little  while  ago  their  own  happy  home. 

Till  dark,  we  passed  on  the  Rail  from  Palmerston  much  the  same 
character  of  Country;  and  when  the  night  came  the  smoke  passed 
into  bright  fires,  visible  on  either  hand  among  the  Bush,  making 
ready  for  the  advent  of  Civilization,  or  already  entertaining  jt. 

We  came  to  this  Hotel.  I found  my  Trunk  and  Deck  Chair  had 
arrived  safely,  and  the  Proprietor  told  me  he  was  sorry  he  did  not 
know  the  day  of  my  coming,  that  he  might  have  saved  me  one  of  his 
best  rooms.  But  mine  is  good  enough  for  my  modest  tastes. 

The  wind  was  blowing  a gale  when  we  came,  and  after  I went  to 
bed  its  concussions  shook  the  third  story  of  the  Hotel  where  I was 
lodged,  betokening  unfavorable  weather,  I feared,  for  the  morrow, 
and  confirming  the  applicability  of  the  name  this  city  has,  of  the 
Windy  Wellington. 

On  Steamship  Wakatipo, 

From  Wellington  to  Christchurch, 

Tuesday,  February  18,  1890. 

The  wind  last  night  brought  bad  weather,  in  accordance  with  my 
anticipations.  It  was  raining  when  I got  up,  continuing  till  mid-day. 
I remained  in.  After  Lunch  I took  a Carriage,  and  Mr.  Bennetts 
with  me,  we  drove  about  the  City.  It  is  said  to  contain  twenty- 
five  or  thirty  thousand  people.  Much  of  it  is  evidently  new — of  the 
same  material  and  style  of  Architecture  as  the  Cities  of  which  I have 
already  written. 

Wellington  is  now  the  Capital  of  New  Zealand.  Auckland  for- 
merly was,  but  the  Seat  of  Government  was  removed  to  Wellington 
in  1864,  being  more  central.  Its  site,  for  business  purposes,  is  very 
confined,  the  level  land  on  which  it  is  or  can  be  built,  being  a narrow 
strip  around  the  head  of  the  Harbor — the  hills  rising  immediately 
from  it,  too  steep  and  high  for  the  purposes  of  Commerce  and  Trade, 
which  must  ever  forbid  its  being  an  Emporium. 

We  drove  to  the  Governor’s  Residence — a nice  affair  with  improved 
grounds  ; to  the  Houses  of  Parliament — a big  frame  building,  said  to 
be  the  largest  wooden  structure  in  the  world  ; to  the  suburbs  to  get  a 
view  of  the  City  ; to  the  Botanical  Gardens — grounds  only  tolerably 
and  partially  improved  ; to  the  Museum — a very  good  collection  for 


WELLINGTON. 


161 


a small  and  far  away  place  like  Wellington ; and  through  the  streets 
of  the  business  portion,  till  I may  be  said  to  have  seen  the  Metropolis 
of  New  Zealand  quite  thoroughly.  It  does  not  strike  me  that  its 
present  is  great,  nor  that  its  future  promises  to  be  exceeding  much 
greater. 

My  friend  Bennetts  insisted  on  doing  all  he  could  for  me,  and  went 
himself  and  bought  our  tickets  on  the  Steamer,  and  picked  out  our 
Berths,  securing  me  the  lower  one.  We  sent  our  Baggage  from  the 
Hotel  by  Express,  and  walked  down  a few  hundred  yards.  On 
entering  the  Dining  Room  this  morning  whom  should  I see  but  my 
broad-Scotch  Friends,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Sturrock,  who  both  arose  hastily 
from  the  table  and  gave  me  a hearty  greeting,  expressive  of  their 
delight  of  our  coming  together  again.  We  all  met  on  the  Steamer  in 
company  once  more. 

The  Evening  was  fine,  and  leaving  at  half-past  five  o’clock  I had 
a good  opportunity  from  the  Deck  of  the  Steamer  of  seeing  the 
Harbor  and  the  lay  of  the  City,  and  its  commercial  facilities.  The 
Harbor  is  small,  but  a pei’fectly  land-locked  Basin,  reached  from  the 
Sea  through  Channels  formed  by  projecting  Islands,  absolutely  hiding 
it  away.  Around  this  basin  sti’etches  the  town,  pretty  well  filling  the 
narrow  margin  of  level  land,  and  creeping  up  the  hills  in  the  rear — 
the  houses  I have  named  more  conspicuous  and  recognizable.  This 
view  of  Wellington  is  altogether  the  best  to  be  obtained. 

I went  to  bed  early  in  my  little  cot.  My  friend  Bennetts  came  in 
after  a while.  The  Sea  was  somewhat  unsettled,  which  unsettled  him 
much  more,  and  I insisted  upon  giving  up  my  lower  Berth,  that  he 
might  take  it  and  I climb  into  the  upper.  I was  truly  glad,  that  I 
was  thus  enabled  to  turn  his  kindness  and  courtesy  into  a substantial 
benefit  to  himself. 

The  night  was  falling  when  we  glided  out  of  the  Harbor  and  Inlets 
into  the  open  Sea,  bound  for  Christchurch — distant  one  hundred  and 
seventy-five  miles. 

Christchukch,  New  Zealand, 
Cokey’s  Hotel, 

Wednesday,  February  19,  1890. 

The  voyage  last  night  could  not  have  been  better.  We  left  the 
winds  behind  in  Windy  Wellington,  and  our  Steamer  sped  over  the 
waters  without  roll  or  even  throb — both  winds  and  waves  conspiring 
11 


162 


LETTER  NO.  12. 


to  its  comfort.  I was  up  and  out  early ; and  we  were  coasting  New 
Zealand  some  distance  to  the  West.  About  ten  o’clock  we  began 
steaming  directly  towards  the  Coast,  which  appeared  at  first  to  be 
an  unbroken  mountain  wall  in  front,  whilst  off  Northward  an  open 
plain  stretched  to  the  Shore.  After  a while  a rift  appeai’ed,  which 
widened  as  we  approached,  and  opened  an  Inlet  of  the  Ocean,  which 
we  entered,  and  sighted  Littleton  at  the  farther  end — built,  like 
Wellington,  partly  on  the  Shore  and  partly  on  the  Mountain  side. 
Littleton  is  the  Port  of  Christchurch,  seven  miles  further  inland. 

The  Inlet  is  an  open  one,  and  the  Harbor  is  formed  by  a rough 
Sea-wall,  within  which  the  Steamer  passed,  and  was  cabled  at  a 
Landing.  Bennetts  called  my  attention  to  the  wreck  of  a large  sail- 
ing Vessel  near  the  opening  of  the  Inlet,  cast  there  twelve  mouths 
ago,  and  I should  think  from  its  open  condition  not  a safe  place  in 
stormy  weather,  when  the  Ocean  is  up  from  the  East.  And  the  Sea- 
wall, which  guards,  indeed  makes  the  Harbor,  appears  to  be  of  a 
temporary  character. 

Behind  the  mountains  lie  the  Canterbury  Plains,  a great  area  of 
level  country,  hid  from  view  entirely  by  this  single  Range — a curious 
formation.  A short  walk  brought  us  to  the  Station  of  the  Rail  Road 
from  Littleton  to  Christchurch — a Narrow  Gauge — which  penetrates 
the  Mountain  by  a tunnel,  a mile  and  a quarter  in  length  ; and  in  a 
little  while,  out  of  its  darkness,  springs  into  the  light  of  this  extended 
Plain,  on  which  Christchurch  is  located — seemingly  with  its  environ- 
ments and  suburbs — partaking  the  characteristics  of  the  Plain  in  its 
widespread  plan.  On  our  arrival,  we  walked  to  this  Hotel,  where 
Bennetts  himself  lives,  and  sent  our  Baggage  by  local  Express. 

Eixing  myself  in  my  quarters  I hired  a Hansom,  many  of  which 
were  on  the  streets — the  first  I have  ridden  in  since  I was  in 
London — and  with  Bennetts  drove  out  a mile  or  two  to  witness  a 
Sheep  Auction  then  going  on.  These  Auctions  are  on  Wednesday 
of  every  week.  Bennetts  himself  was,  he  told  me,  engaged  in  the 
business,  but  recently  sold  out  his  interest  and  good  will,  and  is  now 
buying  and  selling  on  his  own  account,  and  from  what  I can  infer 
has  made  a success  of  it.  The  business  is  conducted  by  Brokers  or 
Factors,  who  sell  and  guarantee  the  owners  against  loss,  a ticklish 
affair,  and  Bennetts  says  scarce  any  of  them  have  made  any  money — 
some  have  been  ruined — the  hazards  are  too  great  for  certain  success. 
He  introduced  me  to  several  of  them — highly  respectable  men  they 


CHRISTCHURCH. 


163 


were  in  their  looks  and  bearing,  and  sensible  in  their  talk.  There 
were  from  ten  to  fifteen  thousand  sheep  on  the  ground,  in  connected 
pens,  covering  a large  area.  The  Auctioneer  walks  upon  a broad 
plank,  extending  along  and  on  top  of  the  enclosures,  whence  he  can 
be  distinctly  seen  and  heard.  There  were  a great  many  people 
present — sturdy,  good  looking  men — giving  me  a favorable  idea  of 
the  Yeomanry  of  New  Zealand,  and  nearly  all  of  them  of  English 
and  Scotch  Phiz.  I moved  among  them  and  talked  Sheep  learnedly, 
and  knowing  I was  an  American,  they  gave  ready  ear,  for  the  out- 
side world  now  thinks  America  “prodigious” — and  doubtless  they 
were  sure  I was  most  intelligent  and  scientific  on  Sheep  matters,  as 
juries  in  my  lifetime  have  by  my  confident  air  been  made  to  believe 
that  I was  a wonderful  horse-man,  when  there  is  scarce  any  depart- 
ment of  knowledge  of  which  I know  less. 

I spent  an  hour  or  two  pleasantly  there,  and  then  came  back  alone, 
leaving  my  Friend  among  his  people,  talking — maybe,  buying  sheep. 
The  day  has  been  the  perfection  of  weather — clear  and  bright,  but 
cool.  If  this  be  a sample  of  Christchurch’s  Summer,  it  has  much  to 
boast  of. 

I strolled  about  the  streets  for  a while,  which  ended  my  sight- 
seeing for  the  day. 

The  Hotel  is  full.  The  Steamer  last  night  was  full — four  of  us 
in  one  little  cabin  laid  away  like  the  Chinese  stow  themselves  in  an 
Opium  Den ; indeed,  wherever  I have  been,  throngs  of  travellers 
greet  me — mainly  English  and  Scotch — either  from  the  Old  Country, 
or  Colonial — but  not  a single  American. 

Same  City  and  Hotel, 

Thursday,  February  20,  1890. 

I strolled  with  Mr.  Bennetts  about  the  streets  this  morning.  I 
stopped  into  a Shoemaker’s  shop  and  had  a stitch  put  in  my  shoe  to 
save  it;  that  is  a precaution  which  engages  me  on  every  Tour,  for, 
you  know,  I can  buy  none  ready-made  to  fit  me,  and  badly  shod,  my 
pedestrian  capabilities  are  hampered,  if  not  undone.  We  then  went 
to  a Silversmith  shop  and  bought  a piece  for  the  Set,  having  the 
name  and  date  engraved.  We  then  parted,  I wandering  back  to  the 
Hotel,  taking  Christchurch  gradually  in. 


164 


LETTER  NO.  12. 


In  tlie  afternoon,  my  Friend  drove  ont  with  me  to  the  Park  and 
Gardens.  We  proposed  to  visit  the  Museum,  but  the  hours  of  open 
had  gone,  and  it  was  closed.  It  is  located  just  at  the  Gate  of  the 
Gardens,  which  we  visited,  strolling  over  them.  They  contain  from 
seventy  to  a hundred  acres,  and  are  most  creditably  and  highly  im- 
proved, with  trees,  shrubbery,  and  grass.  Among  the  trees  is  an  Oak, 
planted  in  1863  in  commemoration  of  the  Marriage  of  the  Prince  of 
Wales.  It  is  now  a large,  healthy  tree,  and  bids  fair  to  “live  long 
and  be  happy,’’  perchance  with  more  vigor  and  freer  from  trouble 
and  care  than  his  life  has  been,  or  promises  to  be.  Through  the  Gar- 
dens runs  the  Avon  River,  a clear,  pellucid  stream,  where  fish  disport 
themselves  and  young  men  and  maids  were  boating — beneath  the 
shadows  of  big  willows  which  arched  themselves  above — a lovely 
scene  altogether  in  the  fine  afternoon.  Avon,  Christchurch,  Canter- 
bury, and  a host  of  other  names  are  around,  brought  from  the  Old 
Country,  which  by  their  memories  delight  the  Loyal  Britisher’s  heart 
and  keep  it  warm. 

There  is  a small  Zoological  Garden  and  pools  and  hatcheries  for 
Fish — not  of  much  import — which  did  not  interest  me  as  much  as 
the  ti’ees  and  grass,  which  the  rich  soil  had  helped  into  abundant 
foliage  and  bloom. 

Then  we  took  again  our  Hansom  and  drove  along  the  Avon, 
arched  with  willows,  and  through  many  of  the  streets,  lined  with 
comfortable,  some  handsome,  homes  and  enclosures,  more  than  I had 
seen  in  any  other  New  Zealand  City.  We  passed  the  Cathedi’al  of 
the  Established  Church  of  England,  a quite  fine  modern  Gothic 
Edifice  of  Stone,  with  a striking  spire,  the  top  of  which  was  missing. 
My  Friend  told  me  an  Earthquake  came  along  some  months  ago,  an 
unusual  thing  hereabouts,  and  shook  it  off,  the  only  serious  damage 
public  or  private  in  the  City,  and  the  Church  being  unhurt,  that  can 
be  readily  repaired.  The  Spire  was  the  gift  of  Mr.  Rhodes,  the 
Father  of  the  youths  I travelled  with  and  left  in  the  North  Island ; 
and  they  have  promised  to  restore  it. 

At  Dinner,  the  Manager  of  the  Hotel  told  me  Mr.  Connolly,  Con- 
sul at  Auckland,  was  here,  and  inquired  for  me.  I saw  him  after-' 
wai’ds,  and  we  spent  several  hours  pleasantly  together.  He  has  come 
on  to  right  matters  with  his  Consular  Agent  here,  who  has  been 
behaving  badly  and  appropriating  what  does  not  belong  to  him.  Mr. 
Cokey,  the  Proprietor,  came  in  and  joined  us,  and  had  wine  and 


BELFAST. 


165 


liquors  brought,  and  we  discussed  England  and  America.  Cokey  is 
an  old-time  Britisher,  and  believes  in  England  and  her  Destiny;  and 
I said  some  things  which  made  him  glad  he  belonged  to  so  glorious 
a Country,  and  more  confident  than  ever  of  that  Destiny, 

Same  City  and  Hotel, 

Friday,  February  21,  1890. 

Jardine,  my  one-legged  Friend,  travelling  with  his  Valet,  and 
Campbells,  and  others  whom  I met  and  maybe  mentioned  in  the 
North  Island,  overtook  me  here  to-day.  The  Tourists’  name  is 
Legion,  and  they  are  running  about  like  ants  over  their  hill — and 
nearly  all  are  English  and  Scotch,  I meet  and  talk  with  many 
whom  I have  not  time  to  name. 

Bennetts  took  me  out  to  Belfast — seven  miles — in  his  Dog  Cart 
to  see  one  of  the  great  Freezing  Factories  of  Sheep.  On  the  ride,  I 
had  an  opportunity  of  seeing  how  Christchurch  has  extended  its 
suburbs  for  miles  around ; and  how  the  Plains  have  everywhere 
been  converted  into  cultivated  areas,  full  of  adorned  and  comfortable 
homes,  and  wealth.  The  fields  are  enclosed  with  hedges  mainly  ; — 
of  Hawthorn,  which  does  not  seem  to  do  well,  the  insects  destroying 
the  leaves,  as  with  us ; of  Cedar,  which  does  well ; of  Gorse  or  F urze, 
which,  whilst  it  makes  a good  fence,  appears  to  spread,  and  I should 
think,  without  precaution,  would  convert  itself  into  a noxious  weed ; 
there  are  none  of  Osage  Orange,  which  would,  I think,  do  better  than 
any  they  now  use. 

We  were  received  by  the  Manager  of  the  Concern  with  cordiality, 
and  conducted  through  the  Establishment:  first,  to  the  Slaughter 
House,  where  the  innocent  Sheep  and  Lambs  are  treated,  like  we  saw 
on  my  First  Tour  the  equally  innocent  Hogs  and  Pigs  in  Chicago — 
save,  that  the  former  are  simply  skinned  and  eviscerated,  and  their 
carcasses  prepared  to  be  frozen  — a “cold  obstruction”  of  which 
Shakespeare  knew  nothing,  nor  “dreamed  of  in  his  philosophy”  when 
he  gave  us  those  significant  words.  With  equal  economy  here,  every 
part  of  the  animal  is  preserved  and  converted  into  use. 

The  Manager  then  conducted  us  to  the  Machinery,  operated  by 
Steam,  where  the  air  is  robbed  of  its  heat  and  forced  into  chambers ; 
with  a Lantern  he  took  us  to  these,  and  opening  the  iron  doors  led 
us  into  the  casements,  where  the  carcasses  were  hung  up,  frozen  stiff 


166 


LETTER  NO.  12. 


by  the  cold  which  met  us,  like  the  breath  from  an  Iceberg.  Then 
we  went  to  the  chambers,  equally  chill,  where,  sewed  in  canvass,  they 
were  packed  away,  ready  to  be  taken  to  the  Vessel,  built  with  the 
same  provision  for  their  preservation,  and  transported,  mainly  to 
London,  where  at  the  Docks  there  are,  also.  Refrigerators,  whence 
they  are  distributed  for  consumption  over  the  City  and  Kingdom. 
These  Ships  will,  some  of  them,  carry  forty  thousand,  thus  prepared, 
as  I have  hitherto  remarked. 

It  takes  tlu’ee  or  four  days  to  get  the  carcasses  ready  for  transpor- 
tation ; and  this  Concern  prepares  three  hundred  and  fifty  thousand 
annually.  The  Plant  is  owned  by  an  individual  or  company,  and 
charges  for  the  work  so  much  per  pound.  The  sheep  owner  preserves 
his  property  in  the  animals,  and  paying  for  the  freezing  and  other 
preparation  and  for  the  transportation,  consigns  them  to  agents  in 
London  for  sale.  Thus  the  loss,  if  any,  falls  upon  the  owner ; and 
Bennetts  tells  me,  the  fluctuation  in  the  foreign  market  sometimes 
entails  it  seriously. 

But,  however,  that  may  be,  the  Enterprise  is  a great  blessing  to 
these  Colonies,  furnishing  the  only  means  possible  to  dispose  of  the 
thousands,  even  millions,  of  animals  that  otherwise — save  their  wool 
and  hides — would  be  lost ; and  equally  to  the  Old  Country,  in  giving 
meat-food  to  the  mass  of  its  people.  The  beneficence  of  similar 
Enterprises,  I called  your  attention  to  in  South  America,  when 
travelling  there. 

On  our  return  drive,  I observed  more  particularly  the  products  of 
the  fields — grain,  grass,  and  vegetables;  the  grain,  principally  Wheat, 
of  which  the  crops  had  all  been  cut  and  in  shock  or  stack — the  shocks 
badly  done,  seemingly  only  temporary  piles,  the  stacks  admirably 
built,  often  beautifully  thatched,  as  I observed,  you  remember,  in  the 
Old  Country, — the  straw  golden  and  manifesting  an  abundant  yield ; 
my  Friend  said  thirty  bushels  to  the  acre.  Much  Red  Clover  covered 
the  ground  heavily,  now  in  full  bloom,  than  which  no  richer  or  more 
beautiful  crop  can  grow.  They  tell  me  the  Humble  Bee  has  been 
introduced,  and  is  doing  his  proper  work  in  Nature’s  Economy. 

We  stopped  near  town  at  a gentleman’s — Mr.  Matson,  whom  I 
met  at  the  Sheep  Yards  and  who  is  one  of  the  Brokers  and  salesmen 
there — to  see  a drove  of  African  Ostriches.  He  was  absent ; but  his 
son  kindly  showed  them  to  us.  He  has  about  forty  full-grown  and 
some  young  ones ; the  latter  are  hatched  by  the  old  ones — the  heat 


CHRISTCHURCH. 


167 


not  great  enough  for  the  sand  process  of  their  ancestors  and  relatives 
in  the  home  land.  They  are  mainly  hatched  and  cared  for  by  the 
males — tall  and  courtly  gentlemen  that  they  are.  The  young  are 
kept  and  cared  for  by  themselves ; the  old  together  to  themselves  in 
a large  Paddock  ; and  a finer,  better-conditioned  lot  I never  saw. 
They  are  sometimes  dangerous,  and  will  attack  you,  kicking  fiercely 
and  tearing  you  with  their  claw.  But  they  seemed  gentle  enough 
this  afternoon,  and  when  we  entered  the  Paddock,  gathered  around 
us  very  peacefully,  towering  above  us  some  of  them  several  feet.  I 
was  more  afraid  of  their  pecking  my  face  or  putting  their  stupid 
bill  into  my  eye,  than  I was  of  their  heels  or  toes.  Our  young 
Friend  showed  us  their  wing  and  tail  plumes,  just  ready  to  be 
cut,  which  were  truly  royal.  He  had  several  Llamas,  also ; but 
they  presented  a sorry  look  to  the  noble  creatures  I saw  in  South 
America  in  their  lofty  homes  among  the  Andes. 

Same  City  and  Hotel, 

Saturday,  February  22,  1890. 

I walked  to  the  Museum  this  morning,  and  viewed  its  contents, 
and  highly  creditable  they  are — the  best  collection  I have  seen  in 
New  Zealand,  embracing  things  new  and  old,  foreign  and  domestic; 
but  especially  rich  in  things  belonging  to  the  Polynesian  Islands. 
Of  course,  I cannot  pretend  to  stop  to  give  you  even  a summary  of 
them.  I must,  however,  mention  the  fine  skeletons,  large  and  small, 
of  the  Moa.  They  have  gathered  the  curious,  wingless,  and,  doubt- 
less, magnificent  bird  that  I have  hitherto,  I think,  spoken  of,  and 
which  has  but  recently  disappeared  from  among  living  things  and  is 
entirely  extinct.  Two  of  these  skeletons  are  nearly  eleven  feet  high 
and  shaped  like  the  Ostrich.  Their  name  and  that  of  the  Mahoris 
are  associated  in  these  Islands — the  largest  food-creature  they  pos- 
sessed; for  New  Zealand  is  exceeding  scant  in  its  Zoology.  It  is 
claimed,  that  the  Mahoris  turned  their  attention  to  man-eating  because 
they  had  no  other  animals  on  which  to  feed — having  only  the  Dog 
and  the  Pig,  which  they  brought  with  them  when  they  came  hither 
in  Legendary  times.  There  are  still  wild  Pigs — not  a few — in  some 
sections,  with  the  Phenomenal  snout — we  would  call  Pine-Hillers — 
not  yet  modified  by  Civilization.  The  Moa,  having  no  wings,  trusted 
only  to  his  legs  for  safety,  and  the  Mahoris,  with  their  primitive 


168 


LETTER  NO.  m. 


weapons,  found  them  comparatively  easy  prey.  But  they  sent  them 
only  a little  ahead,  and  are  fast  following  them  to  the  Happy  Hunt- 
ing Ground. 

I then  visited  the  Cathedral — finer  outside  than  in.  It  stands 
fronting  an  open  space  near  the  centre  of  the  City,  and  is  the  most 
conspicuous  structure  here,  with  its  Earthquake-truncated  Spire.  I 
ascended  it,  that,  from  open  balconies,  I might  view  the  City  and  the 
surrounding  Country,  and  the  better  take  in  the  lay  of  both.  It  was 
a lofty  climb  for  me ; but  an  English  gentleman,  who  went  up  at  the 
same  time  with  his  wife,  helped  me  in  ticklish  places,  and  the  sight 
was  ample  reward.  Around  were  spread  out  the  City  and  Canterbury 
Plain,  on  which  it  stands;  the  latter  bounded  on  the  East  and  North 
by  the  Ocean  and  the  bunch  of  Mountains  through  which  we  came 
from  Port  Littleton  by  tunnel — called  the  Port  Hills ; on  the  West, 
by  Mountains  which  I believe  are  spurs  of  the  Southern  Alps ; and 
on  the  South,  by  the  horizon — a wide-spreading  fertile  area — the  City 
itself,  and  that  in  view,  hid  away  or  adorned  with  trees  and  vegeta- 
tion. The  town  contains,  they  claim,  thirty  thousand  people,  and 
with  its  suburbs  and  outlying  settlements,  thirty  more. 

In  the  vicinity  of  the  Museum  are  the  buildings  of  the  Christ- 
church University ; built  of  stone,  in  Gothic  Style,  and  scattered 
loosely  about  in  the  old-time  way. 

After  Lunch,  I walked  with  Bennetts  to  witness  a Game  of  Polo 
— to  their  Grounds  on  the  suburbs.  They  were  fine  riders.  The 
horses  were  all  good  and  well  ridden.  Bennetts’  was  a thoroughbi’ed 
mare,  a beautiful  animal,  and  he  did,  by  his  easy  riding,  justice  to 
her  grace  and  speed.  It  was  the  first  Polo  I had  ever  witnessed,  and 
simple  curiosity  took  me.  To  describe  it  in  short — it  is  the  Game  of 
Bandy  on  horseback.  The  bounds  being  marked,  and  the  object  to 
drive  home  a wooden  ball,  the  size  of  the  double  fist,  with  a bandy, 
from  the  seat  in  the  saddle.  To  be  expert,  requires  not  only  good 
riding,  but  a fleet  and  manageable  horse.  The  animals,  excited  by 
the  chase,  took  equal  interest  in  the  game  with  their  riders.  I left 
before  it  was  over,  which  Bennetts  told  me  he  regretted,  as  it  was 
really  gotten  up  for  my  benefit,  and  he  wanted  to  introduce  me  to  the 
gentlemen  and  ladies  present — an  ordeal  which  I by  no  means  desired, 
and  therefore  was  glad  to  get  away. 

After  Dinner  I met  accidentally  with  Mr.  William  J.  Nead,  of 
Philadelphia.  He  said  he  knew  me  well  by  reputation.  He  and 


CHRTSTCHVRCH. 


169 


his  wife  have  been  travelling  for  nearly  five  years,  and  we  talked  of 
our  experiences.  He  has  seen  much  of  the  World,  but  I rather  think 
he  has  wandered  sometimes  aimlessly.  He  has  been  a Railroad  man, 
and  I infer  done  well  thereat.  He  is  good  looking  and  intelligent, 
of  about  my  age.  When  passing  cards,  and  writing  the  date  on  mine, 
I asked  him  what  day  of  the  month  it  was?  He  said,  Washington’s 
Birthday.  I told  him,  mine,  too ; and  then,  for  the  first  time,  the 
Anniversary  was  brought  to  my  attention.  I am  sure  you  all  at 
Home  are  not  so  oblivious,  and  send  me  tenderest  greetings  across 
the  World. 

He  is  the  only  American  I have  seen  in  New  Zealand:  he  said 
the  same  of  me. 


Same  City  and  Hotel, 

Sunday,  February  23,  1890. 


I went  this  morning  to  the  Cathedral  of  the  Established  Church ; 
on  my  way,  two  Bands  were  parading  the  streets  with  processions  of 
men,  women,  and  children,  making  much  ado  with  their  instruments 
and  songs.  I left  them  gathered  on  the  corner  of  the  street,  making 
Proclamation,  that  they  were  the  Salvation  Army,  and  lo!  were 
bringing  the  Gospel  nigh  to  every  one  of  them.  I make  no  further 
comment  now. 

The  Congregation  at  the  Cathedral  was  not  large.  There  was  a 
good  deal  of  form  and  ceremony.  The  Verger  with  his-  Rod  pre- 
ceded the  Choristers,  twenty-five  or  thirty,  big  and  little,  who  in 
turn  preceded  the  two  Ministers.  One  read  the  Service,  the  other 
preached.  I ought  not  to  say,  read,  rather  intoned — whining  the 
magnificent  Liturgy  insignificantly  and  spoiling  its  noble  utterances. 
What  a shame  this  should  be  done.  It  was  written  to  be  read  with 
manliest  voice.  If  the  Psalms  ought  to  be  sung — then  sung,  as  David 
sang  them,  with  jubilant  notes  of  timbrel  and  harp,  and  loftiest  enthu- 
siasm burst  out  in  song — not  whined  in  puling,  feeble  notes,  unworthy 
of  the  place  and  theme.  The  Sermon  was  only  tolerable ; not  much 
in  it  or  in  the  preacher.  Alas ! that  Service  which  they  so  sadly 
spoil  at  the  Lecturn,  in  time,  to  be  avenged,  spoils  them  for  the 
Pulpit. 

The  wind  was  up  this  afternoon  and  sent  the  dust  whirling  through 
the  broad  streets  of  Christchurch,  making  the  inside  more  agreeable 
than  the  out. 


170 


LETTER  NO.  IS. 


After  Dinner,  Mr.  Nead  and  I had  a long  talk  about  our  world- 
wide travels.  Maybe,  we  will  meet  again  in  Australia,  and  make 
our  way  together  to  Europe  by  the  Cape  Colonies,  which  latter  he 
has  not  yet  visited. 

Faiklie,  New  Zealand, 

Gladstone  Hotel, 
Monday,  February  24,  1890. 

Here  I am  among  the  foothills  of  the  Western  Mountains  of  New 
Zealand.  I must  tell  you  how  I got  here. 

This  morning,  my  Friend  Bennetts  came  to  my  Room  very  early, 
to  bid  me  Good  Bye ! he  had  to  go  olf  on  business.  I was  sorry  to 
part  with  him;  he  has  been  unbrokenly  considerate  and  attentive 
since  we  picked  each  other  up  among  the  Hot  Lakes  of  the  North 
Island. 

I have  had  a pleasant  and  profitable  time  in  Christchurch ; but  I 
should  not  have  stayed  so  long  could  I have  made  connections  for  my 
further  progress.  This  thing  of  connection  is  a serious  matter  to  the 
traveller  making  long  and  distant  Tours.  You  will  recall  how  much 
time  I most  unwillingly  lost  in  South  America, — amounting  to  not 
less  than  a month  or  six  weeks  in  a travel  of  seven  months. 

I am  now  on  my  way  to  Mount  Cook,  and  would  have  left  Christ- 
church for  it  sooner,  could  I have  made  connections  with  the  Stage 
Line  from  this  point.  But  the  Stage  leaves  here  only  twice  a week, — 
Tuesdays  and  Fridays — and  I had  to  wait  till  this  morning  before 
starting.  The  delay  was  of  such  magnitude,  and  entails  further  delay 
in  the  leaving  of  the  Island,  that  I thought  seriously  of  giving  up  the 
Excursion  ; but  its  importance  in  connection  with  a true  knowledge 
of  New  Zealand’s  scenic  and  industrial  interest  was  such,  that  I 
resolved  to  lose  the  time,  for  the  benefit  of  the  results. 

I wanted  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Nead  to  join  me ; she  was  anxious  to  do 
so : but  he  said  he  had  made  all  his  arrangements,  even  bought  his 
tickets  on  the  Land  Travel  and  the  Steamer  through  to  Sydney, 
Australia,  that  he  would  have  to  forego  it.  Thus  I am  alone  again. 
My  day’s  experience  satisfies  me,  that  I continue  most  excellent  com- 
pany unto  myself,  as  I have  been  often  before,  you  know,  upon  my 
Tours.  With  company,  I enjoy  it — and  when  we  part,  I feel  a sense 
of  loss ; when  I start  alone,  my  Alter  Ego  forthwith  hastens  to  my 
side,  and  we  jog  along  in  delightful  companionship. 


CHRISTCHURCH  TO  TIMARU. 


171 


I left  the  Hotel,  having  given  parting  salutations  to  the  Friends 
I had  made,  and  by  eleven  o’clock  was  on  train  with  my  Baggage, 
bound  for  Timarn — you  can  follow  me  on  the  Map  I sent  you — 
distant  from  Christchurch  just  one  hundred  miles.  The  Road,  like 
all  in  New  Zealand,  is  narrow  gauge ; like  most,  is  owned  and  run 
by  the  Government — is  in  fine  order,  with  reasonably  good  cars ; and 
though  not  fast,  put  us  down  in  Timaru  at  forty  minutes  past  two. 

Your  Map  will  show  you,  that  it  runs  Southward,  lengthwise, 
across  the  Canterbury  Plain.  After  leaving  the  neighborhood  of  the 
City,  there  was  a manifest  deterioration  both  in  the  cultivation  and 
the  productive  properties  of  the  soil.  I learn  this  is  the  case  to  the 
Westward,  also,  nearer  the  Mountains,  of  which  I spoke  when  de- 
scribing their  general  contour,  which,  whilst  light  for  the  production 
of  grain,  is  good  for  sheep,  and  is  thus  mainly  used.  It  is  divided 
into  fields  by  hedges — principally  Furze  or  Gorse — which  shows,  in 
many  places,  the  difficulty  attending  its  use,  it  having  spread  itself 
broadcast,  like  a troublesome  weed.  The  wheat  was  generally  fine, 
of  clean,  golden  straw,  badly  shocked  but  beautifully  stacked,  and,  I 
was  told,  yielding  thirty  bushels  to  the  acre. 

We  crossed  three  Rivers,  the  Rakaia,  the  Ashburton,  and  the 
Rangitata,  which  flow  now  in  small  channels  through  River-beds, 
which  showed  that  in  high  water  they  must  be  broad  and  rapid 
water  courses.  These  beds  were  nothing  but  rounded  pebbles  and 
boulders,  evidencing  how  they  had  been  rolled  by  w'ater  and  glaciers 
in  the  cycles  gone,  when  Time  was  young  : and  here  and  along  their 
banks,  where  we  could  see  segments  of  the  Strata,  showing  that  the 
substratum  of  the  Canterbury  Plain  is  of  this  material,  and  their 
richness  and  fertility  dependent  upon  the  amount  of  soil  which  over- 
lies,  vaying  in  productiveness  and  value  according  to  its  depth.  The 
Country  is  everywhere  supplied  with  good  Roads — easy  to  make,  by 
reason  of  its  level,  and  easily  metalled  by  the  pebbles  of  which  I have 
spoken. 

The  Plain  extends  Southward  nearly  one  hundred  miles  on  the 
East,  reaching  to  the  Ocean ; on  the  West,  bounded  by  the  Mountains, 
which,  with  the  road,  incline  towards  the  Coast,  till  they  break  down 
into  foot  hills  and  rolling  Country,  nearing  Timaru,  which  is  seated 
by  the  Sea. 

Great  areas  have  been  planted  in  trees — sometimes  in  avenues, 
sometimes  groves,  sometimes  even  forests  of  Lombardy  Poplar,  Pines 


172 


LETTER  NO.  12. 


and  Eucalipti — the  Blue  Gum  of  Australia — especially  the  last,  where 
formerly,  like  our  Prairies,  not  a single  indigenous  tree  grew.  They 
appear  to  be  flourishing,  and  soon  the  Plain  will,  in  many  places,  be 
a wooded  region. 

When  I arrived  at  Timaru,  who  should  gladly  greet  me  on  the 
Platform  but  my  old  Friends,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Sturrock ; they  had 
been  spending  a day  or  two  with  some  Scotch  acquaintances,  to  whom 
they  introduced  me.  The  train  moving  off,  we  soon  parted  again  : 
they  going  on  to  Dunedin,  bound  for  their  home  in  Melbourne. 
Thus  do  we  travellers  come  and  go. 

I found  out  Cook’s  Agent  in  town  and  bought  Stage  tickets  from 
this  place  to  Mount  Cook,  such  things  having  served  me  a good  part 
in  the  North  Island.  Then  I took  a snack  at  the  Station  Restaurant 
and  strolled  about  till  the  hour  of  the  departure  of  the  train  for  this 
place — distant  thirty-seven  miles — where  we  arrived  at  eight  o’clock, 
a little  after  dark.  I left  my  Trunk  and  Deck  Chair  in  the  Luggage 
Room  at  the  Station  in  Timaru,  and  with  my  Satchel  I came  to  this 
Hotel ; where  I am  now  writing  these  lines  in  an  excellent  Room 
after  an  excellent  Supper. 

The  Country  to  this  place  from  Timaru  is  much  like  that  of  this 
morning — being  behind  or  West  of  the  Ridge  which  bounds  the 
Canterbury  Plain — save,  that  after  a while  it  ascends  and  becomes 
more  rolling  and  broken.  We  will  let  the  whole  thing  alone  now 
for  the  night  and  go  to  bed,  simply  saying,  that  the  wind  blew  all 
day  in  whirligigs  and  before  we  got  here  it  rained.  I hope  the 
weather  will  settle  itself  by  the  morning. 

At  Pukaki,  New  Zealand, 

Hotel  Pukaki, 

Tuesday,  February  25,  1890. 

My  hopes  were  I'ealized  with  regard  to  the  weather.  This  morn- 
ing, the  clouds  were  light,  and  did  not  betoken  rain.  We  left  the 
Hotel  in  the  Stage  at  eight  o’clock,  and  by  eleven  the  clouds  had 
drifted  away  and  a clean  Blue  expanse  was  above  us  the  rest  of  the  day. 

There  were  only  three  of  us : a Mr.  Thomas  Henry,  of  London, 
another  gentleman,  whose  name  I have  not  learned,  and  myself.  We 
all  occupied  the  Box  seat  with  the  Driver,  it  being  very  broad,  and 
our  Baggage  occupied  the  inside  of  the  Coach. 


FAIRLIE  TO  PUKAKI. 


173 


We  drove  twenty-six  miles  by  twelve  o’clock  to  Tekapo,  where  we 
Lunched.  The  Road  ascended  from  Fairlie,  which  has  an  elevation 
of  one  thousand  feet  to  an  elevation  of  twenty-five  hundred,  so  thp 
Driver  said.  In  the  beginning,  wheat  and  oats  were  cultivated ; 
after  a while  only  Sheep  Ranges  were  around  us.  The  Country  is 
very  dry  now,  and  the  grass  is  sere  and  yellow.  After  Lunch,  we 
drove  to  this  place,  thirty  miles,  by  six  o’clock — over  a Country 
of  similar  character — broad,  dry,  level  plains,  surrounded  by  fine 
Mountains,  without  a sprig  of  vegetation,  the  landscape,  however, 
relieved  by  Sheep  Stations  embowered  in  trees — generally  Eucaliptus, 
Pine,  and  Lombardy  Poplar — looking  like  Oases.  Numerous  flocks 
of  Sheep,  I believe,  invariably  Merinos,  we  meet  everywhere. 

Early  in  the  afternoon.  Mount  Cook  showed  himself;  indeed,  in 
the  morning  we  saw  his  top  above  the  intervening  Mountains.  But 
after  Lunch  he  was  grandly  conspicuous,  with  his  white  surface,  lift- 
ing his  bulky  form  like  a truncated  Pyramid,  with  the  exception  of 
one  side,  which  reared  itself  high  up  like  a shining  wall,  twelve 
thousand  three  hundred  and  forty-nine  feet  in  height.  Around  him 
are  many  lesser  snowy  Mountains ; among  them  Mount  Tasman, 
eleven  thousand  four  hundred  and  fifty-nine  feet ; Mount  Sefton ; 
Mount  Hochstetter,  ten  thousand  nine  hundred  and  fifty-nine ; and 
others,  extending  themselves  into  a fine  Range,  towering  above  their 
neighbors,  accompanying  us  with  their  distant  presence,  almost  with- 
out intermission,  till  we  reached  here. 

We  passed  two  sheets  of  water : Lake  Tekapo,  in  full  view  of  the 
Hotel  where  we  Lunched,  and  Lake  Pukaki,  along  which  we  drove 
some  miles  to  its  foot  where  it  issues  in  the  Pukaki  River,  on  which 
this  Hotel,  where  I am  writing,  stands — a pretty  sheet  of  water  over 
the  length  of  which  Mount  Cook  and  his  confreres  stand  like  a 
majestic  battlement — a beautiful  sight — the  Setting  Sun  and  a young 
Crescent  Moon  adding  to  its  impressiveness. 

The  Hermitage,  Mt.  Cook, 

Wednesday,  February  26,  1890. 

The  day  has  again  been  cloudless,  a pleasant  breeze  stirring,  but 
the  Sun  so  hot  as  to  necessitate  the  constant  use  of  my  umbrella, 
reminding  me  of  many  days  I have  spent  among  the  Alps.  Our 
Carriage  was  an  open  one — but  strong  and  well  built,  and  our  team 


174 


LETTER  NO.  IS. 


and  driver  good — with  oiir  four  fine  horses  and  comparatively  light 
load,  we  whirled  along  merrily. 

^ The  Hotel  wliere  we  stopped  last  night  is  at  the  foot  of  Lake 
Pukaki,  where  it  issues  in  the  River  Pukaki — a pretty  sight.  The 
water  is  of  a milkyish  green,  not  unlike  Turquoise,  stained  by  the 
sediment  of  the  Mountains  from  which  it  comes.  The  entire  Lake  is 
visible,  stretching  Northward — thirteen  miles  in  length — and  beyond 
is  the  Valley  through  which  the  Tasman  River,  that  makes  it,  flows ; 
the  whole  terminated  by  Mount  Cook,  where  he  and  his  snow-clad 
confreres  stand  in  grand  array,  the  base  and  lower  Range  in  front 
letting  down  into  a cusp,  that  they  may  be  seen  in  their  impressive 
majesty.  I know  no  great  Mountain  more  finely  located  to  present 
his  most  striking  features,  not  even  the  Matterhorn — seen  through 
the  Valley  of  the  Visp. 

Coming  Southward,  we  saw  Mount  Cook  yesterday  for  thirty  miles, 
lifting  his  huge  bulk  splendidly  from  out  the  other  Mountains;  to-day 
he  filled  our  foreground,  whilst  for  forty  miles  we  travelled  directly 
towards  him  : — for  thirteen  along  the  Lake ; for  twenty-seven  along 
the  Tasman  River,  flowing  through  a waste  of  shingle  and  moraine, 
draining  the  Glaciers  which,  whilst  we  advanced,  came  more  and 
more  in  view,  filling  the  Mountain  flanks. 

We  left  the  Hotel  at  Pukaki  about  half-past  eight  o’clock  and 
reached  here — forty  miles — at  six  in  the  evening.  We  stopped  at  a 
Sheep  Station,  at  the  end  of  twenty-five  miles,  to  I'est  the  horses  and 
eat  the  Lunch  our  Hotel  Proprietor  had  fixed  up  for  us.  We  had 
everything  but  Tea,  and  the  Driver  went  to  the  Station  House  to  get 
a kettle  for  us  in  which  to  boil  it.  He  said  the  Lady  of  the  House 
sent  an  invitation  for  us  to  come  there  and  partake  of  her  hospitality : 
but  this  declining,  the  Driver  brought  us  a pitcher  of  Tea — a present 
from  her  and  a good  one — and  we  ate  our  Lunch  in  the  Shepherd’s 
Hut  in  true  rustic  style. 

The  Road  yesterday  was  very  dusty,  much  of  which  we  gathered 
on  our  clothes  and  persons,  and  a travel-grimed  set  we  were  when 
we  stopped  last  night ; to-day  we  had  little  of  it,  the  Road  not  being 
so  much  used,  and  often  driving  upon  the  grass.  But  what  we  gained 
in  cleanliness,  we  lost  in  smoothness,  and  we  had,  till  we  reached 
Mount  Cook,  a bobby  ride  over  knobs  of  grass  and  rocks  innumerable 
— the  Sun,  too,  blazing  hot  and  demanding  my  umbrella. 


THE  HERMITAGE— MT.  COOK. 


175 


Approaching,  the  Valley  narrowed ; the  Tasman  River  flowed 
through  a wide  bed  in  many  currents,  and  the  Mountains  drawing 
nearer,  showed  themselves  more  impressively.  To  some  of  them 
significant  names  had  been  given  : on  the  left,  Balaklava,  without 
snow,  stood  in  jagged  outline  like  a Pinacle ; on  the  left,  Sebastopol, 
of  similar  features,  frowned  across  the  way.  In  front,  Mount  Cook — 
in  the  Mahori  tongue  Oorangi — Cloud  in  Heaven — continued  to 
assert  his  Royalty;  whilst  down  his  side  and  around  him,  from  lesser 
Mountains,  hung  many  Glaciers.  To  the  right  of  him  were  the 
Muller,  the  Hooker,  the  Ball,  the  Hochstetter,  but  greatest  of  all, 
the  Tasman  Glacier,  eighteen  miles  long  by  two  in  width,  supposed  to 
be  among  the  greatest  in  the  World,  only  surpassed  by  the  Folgefond 
of  Norway,  and  the  Muir  of  Alaska,  the  latter  of  which  is  fifty  miles 
in  length.  The  Tasman,  for  miles  of  our  drive,  w’as  a splendid  sight, 
resting  in  its  Mountain  bed,  and  gleaming  upon  us  with  its  fateful 
face.  I said,  resting;  but  that  is  a mistake.  Glaciers  rest  not,  ever 
pushing  down  into  lower  regions,  they  waste  away,  leaving  in  their 
front  the  black  Moraine — the  detritus  of  the  Mountains,  they  gather 
in  their  progress.  Thus  it  is  with  Tasman : — below,  the  huge  pile 
of  dusty  dirt  and  Ice ; above,  its  white  shining  current  like  a frozen 
River. 

Most  of  the  Mountains  around  are  covered  with  Snow  and  Ice,  or 
present  the  bare  naked  rock.  But  a few  are  covered  with  bush  and 
stunted  trees.  Near  one  of  these,  we,  in  the  distance,  saw  the  Her- 
mitage seated  : a wide-spread,  one  story  house,  j^resenting  a most 
inviting  look  to  the  traveller  as  the  high  Mountains  were  casting  the 
shadows  of  the  Evening;  we  drove  up  and  were  cordially  receiv’ed 
by  the  Host  and  soon  comfortably  stowed  away. 

After  Dinner,  I walked  out  to  enjoy  the  scene.  The  Hermitage 
is  located  upon  a plat  of  level  ground,  surrounded  by  high  Mountains, 
many  of  them  perennially  clad  in  Glaciers  and  Snow.  And  I will 
here  remark,  that  I have  never  seen  Mountains  which  presented  their 
Glaciers  more  conspicuously.  Mount  Cook  himself  is  not  visible  in 
his  entirety  from  the  House;  his  top  shines  over  a lower  Mountain. 
Whilst  I walked,  the  Sun  set  for  us,  and  we  were  in  its  shadows  : 
not  thus  the  Monarch ; for  a long  time  thereafter,  his  crown  was 
dazzling  bright,  and  the  greater  Monarch,  in  passing  away,  in  recog- 
nition, threw  upon  its  silver  sheen  a radiance  of  aureate  hue.  To  add 


176 


LETTER  NO.  12. 


impressiveness  to  the  hour  and  scene,  again  and  again,  the  distant 
Avalanche  came  to  us  like  the  sound  of  artillery. 

The  Hermitage, 

Thw'sday,  February  27,  1890. 

When  we  arrived  yesterday,  we  found  half  a dozen  guests  ; two  of 
whom,  gentlemen  from  Australia  travelling  in  a special  buggy,  we 
spent  the  night  with  at  Pukaki,  and  who  preceded  and  arrived  here 
before  us  last  evening — Borland  and  Smith,  their  names.  This 
morning,  early,  all  left,  except  those  two  and  ourselves.  I have 
found  out  the  name  of  my  other  companion,  who  has  been  travelling 
with  me — Mr.  Vine,  of  this  Island. 

My  comrades  and  Mr.  Huddleston,  the  Proprietor  of  the  Her- 
mitage, went  out  for  a long  walk  among  the  Mountains.  They 
invited  me  to  join  them,  which  I declined,  not  desiring  such  an  ex- 
perience among  the  Rocks  and  Boulders.  Mr.  Borland  and  I,  taking 
the  Manager’s  son,  a little  boy,  to  show  us  the  path,  walked  to  the 
Muller  Glacier,  much  shorter  and  the  most  accessible  of  them  all. 
But  before  we  got  through,  we  found  even  this  disagreeable  enough, 
climbing  over  its  Moraine — a wilderness  of  boulders,  big  rocks,  and 
detritus.  There  is  nothing  attractive  in  the  Moraine  of  this  Glacier, — 
Ice,  and  Rocks,  and  rubbish  mixed  in  dirty  and  ugly  confusion, 
showing  how  hard  it  is  for  the  Glacier  to  die.  These  Mountains 
must  be  very  much  shattered ; for  when  the  Glacier  moves  down- 
ward in  its  irresistible  force  it  not  only  grinds  infinitesimally  the 
rocks  in  its  pathway,  as  is  usually  the  case,  but  here  has  brought 
down  immense  masses  torn  from  their  bed,  and  when  the  Ice  melted 
has  left  them  strewn  around,  a Cyclopean  wreck.  We  climbed  over 
and  among  them  with  difficulty  : the  boy-Guide,  whose  Father  and 
Mother  are  Swiss,  leaping  from  one  to  the  other  with  Chamois 
agility. 

When  we  returned  to  the  House,  Borland  and  Smith  left  in  their 
buggy.  Smith  told  me  that  he  had  had  a serious  Sunstroke  not  long 
ago,  and  the  other  day,  on  this  tour,  fell  from  his  horse  in  a fit.  He, 
therefore,  dared  not  walk. 

Thus  my  Friends  Henry  and  Vine  are  alone  with  me.  We  have 
the  whole  house  to  ourselves,  and  are  having  a quiet,  good  time : 
enjoying  the  objects  around  us. 


THE  HEBMITAOE~MT.  COOK. 


177 


Sitting  on  the  front  Verandah,  with  the  Glaciers  on  the  high 
Mountain  before  us,  looking  down  from  their  cones,  we  were  enjoying 
the  cool  breezes  they  were  breathing,  the  Bush-clad  lower  Mountain 
near  by  seemingly  alive  with  the  music  of  Birds.  Mr.  Huddleston 
invited  us  to  go  with  him  into  the  Bush,  and  he  would  bring  them 
to  our  side.  He  took  his  whistle  with  him,  and  imitating  their  notes, 
he  soon  gathered  the  songsters  about  us,  joyously  tuning  their  pipes 
and  fluttering  from  bough  to  bough  above  our  heads.  Among  them 
were  the  New  Zealand  Wren,  a tiny  interesting  thing,  a diminutive 
likeness  of  our  own  ; the  Linnet — the  Tom  Tit ; but  above  all,  the 
famous  New  Zealand  Bell-Bird — in  Mahori  tongue,  the  Korimako 
or  Makomako — to  which  Captain  Cook  refers  in  his  travels,  filling 
the  woods  with  sweet  sounds,  like  the  Chimes  of  Bells.  It  is  a small 
Bird — about  the  half  the  size  of  a Robin,  of  light  greenish  color,  and 
quick  and  active  in  its  movements — of  mocking  gifts  and  singing 
merrily.  Once  this  Bird  was  abundant  over  both  Islands.  It  is 
rapidly  disappearing — in  the  North  Island,  almost  extinct.  Much 
conjecture  has  been  expended  with  regard  to  this  “taking  off”;  it 
is  a honey-bird,  and  some  have  thought  that  the  introduction  of  the 
Honey  Bee,  which  has  escaped  from  the  domestic  hive  and  now 
abounds  in  the  wild,  has  consumed  the  food  on  which  these  Birds 
mainly  fed,  and  consequently  they  have  gone ; others  have  thought, 
with  more  plausibility,  that  they  have  been  destroyed  by  the  Norway 
Rat,  which,  introduced  some  years  ago,  has  swept  off  the  Native  small 
black  Rat,  and  now  holds  possession  of  the  field,  as  he  has  done  with 
us.  I think  I have  remarked,  with  what  hospitality  foreign  impor- 
tations are  received  by  these  Islands,  even  to  the  extirpation  of  their 
own.  The  seemingly  defenceless  house  fly,  we  know  so  well,  has, 
wherever  brought,  cleaned  out  the  Blue  Bottle.  In  the  North  Island, 
there  are  swarms  of  the  former ; I saw  few  or  none  of  the  latter  there. 
On  the  contrary,  here  no  house  flies  have  been  brought;  and  the  Blue 
Bottle  goes  thumping  about  all  day — is  doing  so  whilst  I write. 
Which  is  the  worse,  the  bane  or  antidote  ? The  poor  Mahori  says, 
that  everything  the  white  man  brings  destroys  some  Native  product, 
which  they  have  ever  regarded  as  a benefit  or  a beauty;  soon,  it  will 
be  their  time  to  go.  Alas  ! it  is  their  time  now. 

“As  the  Pak4ha  fly  has  driven  out  the  Mahori  fly ; 

As  the  Pak4ha  grass  has  killed  the  Mahori  grass ; 

As  the  Pak^ha  rat  has  slain  the  Mahori  rat ; 

12 


178 


LETTER  NO.  IZ. 


As  the  Pak^ha  clover  has  starved  the  Maliori  fern ; 

So  will  the  Pak6ha  destroy  the  Mahori.” 

Whilst  it  occurs  to  me,  I must  mention  another  curious  Bird,  called 
the  Ivea.  It  is  of  the  Parrot  family,  and  until  quite  recently  fed  on 
grain  and  grubs;  lately  it  has  taken  to  attacking  sheep,  seating  itself 
upon  the  victim’s  back  and  with  its  long  sharp  beak  eating  into  its 
vitals.  This  has  been  relied  upon  by  some,  as  confirmation  of  the 
theory  of  Evolution  ; but  hardly  very  strong ; for  we  are  told  by  an 
Ornithologist  of  the  Islands,  that  he  had  four  or  five  different  birds 
pf  the  PaiTot  sjiecies  confined  in  a cage.  They  lived  harmoniously 
for  a while.  All  at  once  the  stronger  not  only  attacked  the  weaker, 
when  he  was  sick  and  feeble,  but  killed  and  ate  him:  till  at  last  one 
only — the  fittest — which  in  Nature’s  economy  means  the  strongest  in 
his  sphere — survived.  The  boys  about  the  house  had  snared  two  of 
them,  and  I went  out  to  see  the  creatures  that  have  excited  such 
interest  and  curiosity  among  the  Scientists.  They  are  much  like  the 
Parrot — stout  and  strong,  with  bills  fit  for  the  work  of  digging,  as 
their  nature  has  hitherto  been,  in  the  ground  for  bugs  and  grubs, 
and  more  recently  into  the  vitals  of  the  innocent,  unwary,  sheep.  He 
has  an  eye  and  look  just  like  a fellow  who  would  do  that  kind  of  thing. 

In  the  Evening  after  Dinner,  we  strolled  about  the  neighborhood 
with  Huddleston  and  enjoyed  the  lights  and  shadows  of  the  bleak 
rock  Mountains  and  their  nobler  comrades,  clothed  in  white,  and 
admired  the  easy  manner  in  which  the  Sun  withdrew  and  allowed 
the  Moon  to  occupy  with  feebler  powers  his  Domain.  Erom  these 
meditations  we  were  constantly  brought  back  to  the  tangible  by 
innumerable  sand  flies,  which  unceasingly  demanded  attention  with 
our  handkerchiefs.  The  pestiferous  creatures,  however,  do  not  dis- 
turb one  long : only  for  a short  time  towards  sunset ; they  do  not 
appear  during  the  day,  and  when  night  falls,  they  vanish.  Nor 
happily  here,  does  the  Mosquito  take  their  place ; the  cool  air  from 
the  Glacier  seems  to  be  too  much  for  the  filigree  framework  of  the 
little  monster. 

The  Hermitage,  Mt.  Cook, 

Friday,  February  28,  1890. 

Huddleston,  my  two  Friends  and  I this  morning  walked  to  one  of 
the  lower  mountains,  clad  in  forest,  called  the  Governor’s  Bush, 
because  one  of  the  Governors  of  New  Zealand  used  to  rusticate  there 


THE  HERMITAGE— MT.  COOK. 


179 


in  Camp.  It  is  a pretty  reach  of  verdure,  and  near  by  is  a minia- 
ture waterfall,  and  a limpid  sparkling  stream  comes  down  from  the 
Glacier  and  Snow.  It  looked  a very  short  stretch  away — just  around 
the  corner  as  it  were — but  these  vast  mountains  minify  space  in  such 
manner,  that  without  knowledge  or  experience,  it  is  not  possible  for 
you  to  accui’ately  measure  distance.  It  was  at  least  four  or  five  miles 
there  and  back.  But  the  stroll  was  pleasant  under  the  Blue,  cloud- 
less Sky  : my  umbrella  guarding  me  against  the  Sun. 

We  sat  down  in  the  cool  shade,  and  our  Proprietor  again  for  us 
played  the  Bird-Charmer,  with  his  little  tin  whistle.  He  catches 
immediately  their  various  notes  and  imitates  them  all.  We  kept 
quiet  in  our  places,  and  soon  the  Choristers  came,  respondent  to  the 
call  and  filled  the  trees  around  us  with  their  fluttering  and  music. 
They  hopped  upon  the  ground,  they  flew  from  branch  to  branch  in 
seeming  exstacy  and  tuned  their  little  pipes  till  we  had  a mountain 
Choir.  Though  of  various  species,  they  were  a happy  family  : the 
Bell-Bird,  the  Tom  Tit,  an  active,  diminutive  bob-tailed,  fussy  fel- 
low— the  Linnet,  the  Wren,  the  Kaka,  a species  of  Parrot,  approach- 
ing a crow  in  size,  but  of  rich  plumage — the  Kea,  of  which  I have 
already  told  you,  with  his  sheep  proclivities,  and  the  New  Zealand 
Woodland  Hen — in  Mahori  lingo,  the  Moka — of  which  I have  seen 
a good  many  in  coming  here,  about  twice  the  size  of  a Partridge, 
and  not  unlike  it  in  appearance  and  voice,  though  of  heavier  build — 
a friendly  creature,  coming  with  apparent  confidence  very  near,  and 
then  darting  away  upon  its  feet,  rarely  if  ever  upon  the  wing — a 
thievish  wretch,  like  the  Raven,  stealing  anything  it  can  manage 
with  its  beak,  whether  edible  or  not.  A gentleman,  camping  out  in 
this  vicinity,  lost  his  watch,  and  thought  his  tent  had  been  entered 
by  thieves  whilst  he  was  asleep — it  was  found  afterwards  in  the 
Scrub,  and  had  evidently  been  carried  away  by  a sprightly  Wood- 
land Hen.  With  these  interesting  creatures  gathered  about,  enticed 
by  the  imitation  of  their  own  notes,  and  each  in  his  own  way,  respond- 
ing jubilantly,  was  a sight  worth  seeing. 

I went  no  further,  but  wandered  leisurely  back.  My  friends  made 
a day  of  it : climbing  the  mountains,  where  prudence  taught  me  I 
ought  not  to  venture.  They  did  not  return  till  sunset.  I spent  the 
time  in  strolling  in  safer  places,  and  looking  at  scenes  which  I am 
quite  sure  are  not  magnified  by  nearness.  Independent  of  the  danger 
and  fatigue,  I had  rather  look  upward  toward  the  summit  of  a snow- 


180 


LETTER  NO.  12. 


clad  mountain,  than  from  it  downward  upon  its  base.  There  is  more 
of  majesty  in  it,  to  the  observer,  when  it  towers  to  the  Sky. 

Mount  Cook,  though  not  one  of  the  World’s  highest  by  any  means, 
has  never  been  completely  ascended.  A Rev.  Mr.  Green,  of  the 
Church  of  England,  together  with  two  Alpine  climbers — Kauffman 
and  Boss — a few  years  ago  reached  a few  minutes  of  its  top,  when  a 
storm  coming  up,  they  were  compelled  to  descend  to  save  their  lives. 
I have  read  Mr.  Green’s  well  told  story  of  their  effort,  which  leaves 
the  impression  of  all  such  adventures — how  small  the  profit  for 
the  hardship  endured,  and  risk  of  life ! To  one  below  it  does 
not  seem  so  difficult  as  Matterhorn  and  other  mountains  that  have 
been  frequently  scaled.  But  from  Green’s  narrative,  there  are 
almost  insurmountable  difficulties  which  are  hid  from  the  view  of 
the  distant  observer.  As  at  present  advised,  I will  not  attempt 
to  finish  Green’s  and  Kauffman’s  work — for  me.  Mount  Cook  will 
remain  unsealed. 

When  my  friends  returned,  they  brought  me  some  mountain 
flowers — especially  the  Edelweiss — of  which,  you  remember,  I sent 
you  specimens  from  the  Alps.  It  means,  literally,  Noble  White — 
Edel,  noble — Weiss,  white — and  though  not  the  most  beautiful  by 
any  means  of  snow-flowers,  is  one  of  the  most  interesting,  and  attrac- 
tive by  the  tenacity  with  which  it  clings  to  its  lofty.  Ice-bound  home, 
in  whatever  quarter  of  the  Earth  it  may  have  its  habitat.  It  loves 
the  Glacier  and  the  spots  where  Frost  perennially  reigns. 

The  temperature  is  delightful  in  the  shade : the  Sun  knows  how 
to  shine  fiercely,  as  he  ever  does  in  regions  with  such  environments. 
Towards  his  going  down,  cool  airs  creep  from  the  Glaciers  and  chill 
his  rays.  We  are  not  very  high  here — only  twenty-six  hundred  feet ; 
the  mountains  rise  right  around  us  to  spheres  of  perpetual  snow. 

The  Hermitage,  Mount  Cook,  N.  Z., 

Saturday,  March  1,  1890. 

I have  not  much  to  put  down  to-day,  simply  strolling  out  to  view 
the  Glacier  scenes.  Huddleston  went  with  us  this  morning  by  a 
path  he  had  made  for  the  benefit  of  his  guests  to  an  elevation,  whence 
the  Hooker  Glacier  could  be  seen,  sending  down  its  tribute  to  the 
Muller.  In  the  afternoon,  by  another  pathway.  Vine  and  I walked 
to  an  elevation,  whence  the  Huddleston  Glacier  was  plainly  visible 


THE  HERMITAGE— MT.  COOK. 


181 


throughout  its  whole  length,  from  top  to  bottom  of  Mount  Selwyn, 
bringing  its  tribute  to  the  same.  It  is  a striking  spectacle  to  see  the 
contest  between  the  Ice  and  the  Sun ; and  how  the  former,  over- 
come, tumbles  down  in  avalanches,  or  tears  pieces  from  the  mountain 
or  grinds  them  to  powder,  and  brings  all  down  in  common  ruin  with 
itself.  The  Moraine  is  the  Battlefield  of  Glaciers,  and  indicates  how 
fierce  has  been  the  struggle,  and  how,  overcome,  they  leave  a wreck, 
showing  to  after  ages  the  violence  and  futility  of  the  contest.  Below 
us  lay  this  Battlefield  and  wreck,  strewn  with  pulverized  stone,  and 
big  blocks  of  Rock  and  Ice  in  daz’k  confusion.  Wasted  below,  they 
slide  down,  some  of  them,  a foot  or  more,  it  is  said  a day,  and  thus 
in  time  must  disappear,  unless  renewed  : whether  renewed  or  not  is  a 
question  with  Geologists.  On  every  hand  are  seen  Moraines  resting 
in  the  Mountain  Gorges — the  beds  of  Glaciers  gone.  They  have 
had  their  day,  and  have  been  gathered  to  their  sources : some  are 
dropping  otf  in  avalanches,  leaving  only  a fragment  on  the  Moun- 
tain’s flank — some  are,  like  a frozen  River,  weeping  itself  to  death 
at  the  Mountain’s  foot ; and  all  are  interesting,  whatever  be  their 
phase  or  mode  of  exit.  , 

The  Mountains  themselves  often  tell  the  story  of  their  lives,  and 
of  the  “old  man,”  by  whom  they  have  been  ridden.  Standing  like 
pinnacles,  they  show  by  their  Aretes  and  Couloirs — their  Ridges  and 
narrow  gullies — how  the  Glacier  has  plucked  and  worn  them  in  its 
slide,  and  numerous  surmises  are  suggested  as  to  how  much  influence 
they  have  had  in  the  present  structure  and  condition  of  the  Earth, 
even  where  they  have  long  since  ceased  to  have  a local  habitation  or 
a name. 

About  six  o’clock,  the  Stage  came  in,  and  a four-seated  buggy, 
containing  ten  or  twelve  passengers,  a large  addition  to  our  little 
party.  Among  them  is  Sir  Thomas  Mackelwraith,  the  Premier  of 
Queensland,  Australia,  and  his  wife  and  child.  I have  made  the 
acquaintance  of  none  of  them  as  yet. 

The  Hermitage,  Mt.  Cook, 

Sunday,  March  2,  1890. 

Most  of  the  Guests  went  out  this  morning  with  the  Proprietor  for 
a stroll.  I stayed  in  the  Hotel,  and  quietly  enjoyed  myself,  with 
myself.  I read,  I lounged,  I gave  wing  to  my  thoughts  and  sent 


182 


LETTER  NO.  12. 


them  over  the  waters,  bearing  precious  memories  for  you  all.  I 
wondered  what  you  were  about,  and  then  I wondered,  where  you 
thought  I was,  and  what  a-doing.  The  Letters  are  very  few,  that, 
by  virtue  of  the  distance  and  the  mails,  can  pass  between  us.  I send 
you  one  or  more  by  every  Steamer ; yours  come,  by  reason  of  the  far 
off  points  I have  chosen  for  their  rendezvous,  at  intervals  exceeding 
rare.  I am  looking  to  Melbourne  with  longing  now,  for  there  alone 
can  I hope  to  catch  them,  which  will  be  some  days  hence.  But  this 
I shall  finish  and  dispatch  by  the  next  Steamer  of  the  Oceanic  Line 
to  San  Francisco,  and  will  start  it  soon  enough  to  intercept  the  Vessel 
at  Auckland. 

The  afternoon  I spent  with  Sir  Thomas  Mackelwraith  on  the 
Verandah,  talking  of  our  respective  Countries.  Pie  is  a burly, 
sensible  man,  and  gave  me  much  information  with  x’egard  to  Aus- 
tralia, its  People,  its  Institutions,  and  the  Questions  now  agitating 
the  Colonial  Public  Mind.  He  says  he  is  regarded  as  an  extreme 
Liberal;  but  he  is  very  far  from  desiring  any  severance  from  the 
Mother  Country,  nor  does  he  know  any  party  in  the  Australian 
Colonies  that  does.  In  any  scheme,  of  Colonial  Confederation,  no 
idea  of  severance  will  find  a place.  Nor  does  he  know  of  any  wide- 
spread desire  for  Imperial  Confederation  among  his  people.  They 
are  satisfied  to  remain  under  the  Crown,  from  which  hitherto  only 
benefits  have  flowed.  But  I have  not  time  to  even  enumerate  the 
topics  of  our  talk.  Doubtless,  this  subject  will  come  up  again,  maybe 
often,  in  my  Tour  through  Australia,  when  I can  write  more  under- 
standingly  about  it ; thus  much  for  the  present. 

To-morrow,  I move  backward  on  my  track. 

We  talked  about  my  Friend  Colonel,  now  Judge,  Charles  Stuart 
Mein,  of  whom  I have  so  much  to  say  in  my  First  Tour,  and  whom 
Sir  Thomas  knows  well,  both  living  in  Brisbane.  He  says  the  Judge 
has  been  absent  in  England  for  twelve  months  for  the  benefit  of  his 
health  : but  has  lately  returned. 

Walking  out  after  Dinner,  I noticed  a mist  drifting  up  the  Valley 
of  the  Tasman,  and  bearing  evidences  of  Rain.  I think  the  clear 
bright  weather  and  the  deep  Blue  Sky  which  have  attended  me  on 
this  whole  Mount  Cook  jaunt  are  about  to  pass  away.  I should  not 
wonder  if  to-morrow  would  bring  clouds  and  rain. 


MT.  COOK  TO  PUKAKI. 


183 


PuKAEi,  ISTew  Zealand, 

Monday,  March  3,  1890. 

My  anticipations  of  last  night  were  partially  realized.  It  rained 
during  the  night  and  this  morning ; but  by  the  time  we  had  Bi’eak- 
fasted  and  the  Stage  started — eight  o’clock — it  had  ceased.  Though 
it  continued  cloudy,  which  was  good,  for  the  clouds  concealed  the 
Sun,  and  having  witnessed  the  scenery  to  great  advantage  on  the 
journey  up,  we  did  not  need  his  rays  to-day.  It,  however,  did  not 
rain. 

My  Friend  Henry  remained  at  Mount  Cook,  where  he  designs 
to  sketch  for  several  days  longer.  Vine  came  with  me,  together 
with  four  others  of  the  party  who  arrived  on  Saturday  evening — 
all  Australians.  Vine  and  I took  our  seats  on  the  Box  with  the 
Driver. 

Sir  Thomas  Mackelwraith  and  his  family  remained.  They  came 
out  to  bid  me  Good-Bye ! expressing  the  hope  that  they  would  be  in 
Brisbane  on  my  arrival  there,  that  they  might  entertain  me  in  the 
City,  and  also  at  tkeir  Country  Seat.  For  all  of  which  I thanked 
them  cordially,  but  feared  I would  not  be  able  to  accept  their  kind 
hospitality.  Bidding  the  Proprietor  farewell,  and  the  Guests,  all  of 
whom  I by  this  time  knew,  we  rattled  away  from  Mount  Cook  Her- 
mitage, where  I had  spent  several  pleasant  and  profitable  days. 

The  Ride  itself  was  more  agreeable  than  the  one  up,  for  we  had 
not  the  intense  heat  of  the  Sun,  and  the  temperature  was  delightful 
for  travelling.  At  the  end  of  twenty-seven  miles,  we  halted  for 
Lunch,  and  to  rest  and  feed  the  horses,  and  a sure  enough  rustic 
time  we  had.  The  spot  was  the  site  of  a Station  House,  recently 
moved  away,  leaving  only  the  chimney  of  the  mansion  with  its  wide- 
mouthed fire-place,  surrounded  by  numerous  trees  and  shrubbery — 
fruit  and  ornamental — a nice  place  for  a Picnic.  The  Hermitage 
Proprietor  had  fixed  us  up  a snack  of  sandwiches,  of  meat  and  pre- 
serves and  bread,  and  some  tea,  sugar  and  milk.  We  had  along 
cups  and  plates,  and  a tin-kettle — here  called  a Billy — and  soon  the 
experienced  ones  of  our  party  had  a fire  in  the  fire-place,  and  the 
Billy  a-boiling.  A door-step  of  concrete  was  our  table,  and  around 
it  we  gathered  and  had  an  excellent  meal.  Meantime  our  horses 
feeding. 


184 


LETTER  NO.  12. 


Whilst  thus  occupied  we  had  an  opportunity  of  studying  Mahori 
Woodland  Hen  nature.  Several  of  them  gathered  about  us  with 
their  usual  curiosity — dodging  in  and  out  of  the  bushes  and  trees, 
and  spying  our  doings.  One  of  the  Drivers  struck  one  of  them 
unhappily  with  a stone,  but  did  not,  we  thought,  seriously  hurt  it, 
and  we  exerted  ourselves  to  aid  in  its  restoration.  We  thought  it 
was  doing  well,  and  on  the  road  to  recovery,  when  one  of  its  brethren 
or  sisters  ran  out  and  seeing  its  crippled  condition,  forthwith  picked 
it  to  death,  with  the  instinct  and  vigor  of  a Crow  to  one  of  its  own 
color  under  similar  circumstances  with  us.  A strange  instinct  this. 
Is  it  from  innate  brutality,  or  a desire  to  relieve  from  suffering  one 
of  their  fellows  ? 

We  reached  here  at  half-past  five  o’clock — forty  miles  from  Mount 
Cook,  you  remember. 

Messrs.  Borland  and  Smith,  whom  I met  at  Mount  Cook,  were 
ti’avelling  in  a special  Buggy,  and  had  come  across  the  Country  from 
Queenstown — by  the  way  of  Lake  Wanaka — your  map  will  show 
you.  They  were  going  to  Fairlie,  and  advised  me  to  catch  the  Buggy 
on  its  return  at  this  place,  and  make  my  way  to  Dunedin  by  that 
route,  instead  of  repeating  the  Road  back  to  Timaru,  and  thence  to 
Dunedin.  This  would  enable  me  to  see  the  Lakes  and  intervening 
Country  without  making  a special  Tour — both  cheaper  and  a saving 
of  time — though  by  it  I would  lose  a portion  of  my  return  ticket, 
which  I had  paid.  I thought  the  suggestion  a good'one — inasmuch 
as  there  is  no  public  conveyance,  and  such  an  opportunity  is  very 
rare.  I saw  the  Driver  and  told  him  to  delay  at  this  point  till  my 
arrival,  and  we  might  agree,  which  he  consented  to  do.  When  I 
reached  here  I found  him  waiting  with  his  Buggy  and  Hor-ses — all 
in  good  condition  : and  to-morrow  we  will  go  together. 

Thus  again  do  I part  from  my  travelling  companions,  and  am 
alone. 

I got  my  Friend  Vine,  who  goes  on  direct,  to  promise  to  discharge 
some  Bills  at  the  Hotels  in  Fairlie  and  at  Tekapo,  which  the  Pro- 
prietors preferred  should  I’emain  unpaid  till  my  return ; also  to  have 
my  Trunk  forwarded  from  Timaru,  where  I left  it,  to  Dunedin,  and 
to  engage  me  passage  on  the  Steamer  from  that  City  to  Hobart,  Tas- 
mania. The  Steamers  are  crowded,  and  it  is  important  to  engage 
Berths  in  advance. 


PUKAKI. 


185 


Lindis  Hotel,  near  Lmms  Pass,  N,  Z., 

Tuesday,  3Iarch  4,  1890. 

This  has  been  a busy  and  interesting  day. 

At  Pukaki  this  morning,  I was  up  early  and  out  to  see  after  my 
Driver  and  his  Trap.  I found  him  astir  and  getting  ready.  His 
name  is  Barry,  and  a Hunchback.  He  is  strikingly  like  our  old 
friend  Benny  Crampton,  in  face,  expi’essiou  and  manner,  though 
much  larger  and  stouter.  Often  on  our  ride  to-day  I could  not  help 
being  struck  with  his  likeness  to  Benny.  He  is  an  intelligent, 
worthy  man,  and  a good  Driver. 

His  Buggy  is  an  excellent  one,  with  a broad  seat  in  front,  and  a 
smaller  one  behind,  which  can  be  folded  into  a receptacle  for  Bag- 
gage, which  we  did  to-day.  His  Horses  are  a fine,  well-conditioned 
pair  of  travellers,  whose  metal  was  tested  by  our  drive. 

The  Coach,  going  downwards,  got  off  before  me,  and  I bade 
Good-Bye  to  Friend  Vine,  and  my  other  more  recent  fellow-Tourists 
from  Australia.  At  Eight  o’clock  I was  off  myself  with  Mr.  John 
Gibb,  a Landscape  Artist  from  Christchurch,  occupying,  the  back 
seat.  We  were  simply  helping  him  a mile  or  thereabouts  to  an  ele- 
vation, whence  he  has  been  engaged  for  a day  or  two  in  sketching 
Mount  Cook  and  some  of  the  adjacent  Ranges.  When  we  parted  he 
gave  me  his  cairl  and  a polite  invitation  to  visit  his  Studio  in  Christ- 
church. 

We  crossed  the  Pukaki  on  our  Pontoon  and  Cable  Bridge,  and 
were  soon  speeding  across  the  Tussock  or  Bunch  Grass  Plains, 
bounded  by  bleak,  bare  mountains,  more  or  less  distant,  which  chai’- 
acter  of  country  continued  with  us  the  entii’e  day.  The  Plains  are 
covered  with  this  coarse  grass — sere  and  yellow  and  desolate  look- 
ing— which,  they  tell  me,  is  ever  the  same,  never  changing  its 
appearance  in  any  season,  but  relieved  by  the  numerous  beautiful 
streams  racing  through  it,  with  abundant,  sparkling  and  limpid 
water,  which,  with  their  stony,  gravelly  bottoms,  would  be  an  entic- 
ing habitat  for  the  Trout.  We  were  constantly  crossing  these  refresh- 
ing currents,  varying  from  brooklets  to  the  volume  of  Rivers. 

But  more  refreshing  still,  on  our  Journey,  were  numerous  Sheep 
Stations ; for  Sheep  and  their  wool  are  the  only  products  of  this 
whole  Region.  These  Stations  are  like  Oases.  Established  near 


186 


LETTER  NO.  12. 


one  of  these  streams,  they  are  surrounded  by  trees  and  luxuriant 
vegetation,  and  are  comfortable  homes,  where  the  owners  or  their 
managers  live,  with  their  thousands  of  acres  and  sheep  around  them. 
In  the  distance,  miles  away  over  the  seemingly  barren  plains,  they 
dot  them  with  beauty. 

One  would  think  that  even  the  Slieep  could  scarce  find  a living  on 
these  arid  Reaches,  from  the  grass  which  seems  too  coarse  for  food : 
but  they  do  by  hundreds  of  thousands,  and  the  rich  growths  around 
the  Station  Houses  would  lead  one  to  infer  that  by  irrigation  much 
of  this  seeming  waste  could  be  converted  into  cultivated  fields. 

After  a ride  of  ten  miles  we  came  to  the  River  Ohou — pronounced 
Ohow — which  drains  Lake  Ohou  into  the  Waitaki  River.  As  the 
Waikato,  you  remember,  is  the  chief  River  of  the  Northern  Island, 
so  is  the  Waitaki  the  chief  of  this,  unless  it  be  surpassed  by  the 
Clutha.  Barry  knowing  what  awaited  him  at  the  Ohou,  borrowed 
a stout  Rope  at  one  of  the  Stations,  which  we  used  in  crossing  the 
River.  It  is  a swift  and  dangerous  current,  and  having  no  Ferry 
or  Bridge,  is  crossed  by  a Basket  swung  from  an  Iron  Cable — a 
most  inconvenient  affair  for  travellers. 

Happily,  there  were  four  men  engaged  in  constructing  a Bridge 
over  this  same  River,  and  Barry  went  for  and  brought  them  to  help 
us — without  whose  aid  it  would  not  have  been  possible  to  cross. 
They  helped  me  first — I getting  on  the  Basket,  suspended  by  iron 
rods  from  the  Cable,  running  upon  it  on  grooved  wheels,  and  taking 
the  baggage,  rugs  and  lighter  articles  with  me,  I was  soon,  with  the 
aid  of  a rope,  run  safely  over.  Then  drawing  it  back,  and  taking 
off  the  Basket,  they,  by  the  heavy  ropes  Barry  borrowed  at  the 
Station,  hung  the  Buggy  to  the  wheels  and  speedily  had  it  over 
the  River  by  my  side.  And  then  one  of  the  horses  tolled  by  a 
string,  they  both  swam  the  rapid  stream  without  demur,  and  soon 
we  were  hitched  up  again  and  travelling  on.  This  is  the  first  time 
in  my  Tours  I have  had  such  an  experience — a primitive  mode  of 
transportation  for  ambitious  New  Zealand,  but  soon  to  be  superseded 
by  an  Iron  Bridge. 

At  twenty-five  miles — about  two  o’clock  p.  m. — we  came  to 
OmaiAma — all  the  syllables  pronounced  short — a small  Hotel,  a mile 
or  two  from  a large  and  imposing  Station.  The  next  Hotel — this 
where  I am  writing — is  thirty-five  miles  further,  and  we  considered 
whether  it  would  be  better  to  stop  for  the  night  or  come  on  here. 


PVKAKI  TO  LINDIS  PASS. 


187 


By  coming  on,  we  would  be  compelled  to  make  a long  day’s  drive, 
and  reach  here  after  night;  but  that  would  be  better  than  wasting 
so  much  time  and  necessitating  even  a longer  drive  for  to-morrow. 
We,  therefore,  fed  our  horses  and  rested  them  an  hour  and  a half, 
and  then  drove  on  steadily,  the  horses  manifesting  no  fatigue,  reach- 
ing: here  at  ten  o’clock — distant  from  Pukaki  sixty  miles. 

In  portions  of  the  Country,  the  Mountains  let  down  to  the  Plains 
in  Mesa  formations,  that  were  very  striking  and  interesting.  Both 
Mountain  and  Mesa,  like  the  Plains,  were  without  any  trees,  large 
or  small,  save  that  now  and  then  in  little  gulches  in  the  Mountains 
a few  would  appear.  Here  and  there,  along  the  Rivers,  numerous 
Paradise  Ducks  appeared — a handsome  black  and  white  bird,  coal 
black  and  pure  white,  and  said  to  be  good  eating. 

The  Rabbits  showed  themselves  in  greater  and  greater  numbers — 
flashing  to  and  fro  across  the  way — bounding  along  the  road  in  front 
of  us — dodging  behind  hillocks  and  stones,  or  into  their  burrows 
everywhere.  Most  of  them  are  gray,  like  ours,  with  their  cotton 
tails;  but  many  are  of  other  colors — great  numbers  to-day  were 
black — but  like  ours  in  size  and  shape  and  motion.  My  Australian 
fellow-travellers  tell  me  that  in  their  genial  warm  Country,  they 
breed  eleven  months  in  the  twelve,  and  have  from  twelve  to  eighteen 
at  a Litter;  and  that  at  three  months  of  age  they  reach  their  maturity 
and  are  ready  to  be  parents  themselves.  By  mathematical  progres- 
sion, their  increase  is  a horror  to  any  Country.  Here,  I am  told,  a 
much  less  genial  Country  than  Australia,  they  have  laid  waste  great 
Sheep  Ranges  or  Runs  and  starved  them  out.  All  sorts  of  methods 
have  been  devised  to  prevent  their  spread  and  increase.  Lately,  here 
and  in  Australia,  the  Government,  at  Public  Expense,  has  constructed 
fences  of  wire  netting,  four  feet  above  and  six  to  twelve  inches  below 
ground ; but,  after  immense  cost,  it  is  found  that  the  creatures  not 
only  burrow  under,  but  actually  climb  over  them.  I observed  in  the 
sections  where  they  most  prevail,  great  numbers  of  Hawks ; the  im- 
pression is  that  these  Birds  destroy  many  of  them,  especially  the 
young,  and  the  killing  of  these  Birds  is  forbidden.  The  English 
introduced  the  Rabbit  for  sport;  and  they  have  become  the  most 
pestiferous  of  pests — seemingly  impossible  to  exterminate.  But,  I 
hear,  their  skins  are  becoming  valuable:  their  value  will  be  the  most 
effective  preventive  of  their  increase.  Doubtless,  I will  see  and  hear 
more  of  them  in  Australia. 


188 


LETTER  NO.  12. 


Before  the  Sun  set  we  were  in  the  Lindis  Pass.  The  day  had  been 
perfection  for  travelling;  the  clouds  which  threatened  rain  at  Pukaki, 
drifted  away,  leaving  an  expanse  of  deep  Blue  Sky,  only  bi’oken  by 
drifting  white  cumuli  Clouds,  of  which  we  at  our  homes  are  familiar, 
making  the  Landscape  outlines  of  Field  and  Monntain  clean-cut  as 
with  a diamond.  When  the  Sun  went  the  Moon  came,  advancing  to  its 
full  and  giving  me  the  benefit  of  her  rays,  when  the  daylight  departed 
This  Pass — through  which  the  Lindis  River  flows — surpassed  my 
expectations  in  the  variety  and  combination  of  its  mountain  forms 
and  forces.  Now  we  would  be  high  above  the  current  of  the  River ; 
and  now  by  the  side  of,  or  crossing  its  swift  flowing  waters,  and  I 
was  at  a loss  to  conclude  whether  it  was  more  beautiful  in  the  light 
of  the  Sun,  or  among  the  lights  and  shadow's  of  the  Moon.  I was 
forced  to  give  preference  to  the  latter,  when,  looking  up  from  them, 
the  Southern  Cross,  in  this  low  Latitude,  was  climbing  towards  the 
Zenith — it  and  its  Pointers  blazing  through  the  pure  atmosphere  with 
unusual  brilliancy  : three  Stars,  I had  never  observed  before,  circling 
its  top  with  an  equally  splendid  Corona — a fit  spectacle  with  which 
to  end  a lovely  day. 

When  we  drove  to  the  humble  Inn,  the  inmates  had  all  gone  to 
bed,  and  everything  w'as  dark.  Barry  soon  aroused  Mrs.  Howard, 
the  Landlady,  and  she  got  up  and  opened  for  us,  and  I was,  without 
delajq  assigued  to  a comfortable  Room. 

Pembroke,  Mrs.  Russell’s  Hotel, 

Lake  Wanaka — pronounced,  penult  A short — N.  Z., 

Wednesday,  March  5,  1890. 

We  did  not  hurry  in  our  start  from  Lindis  Hotel  this  morning; 
for  the  drive  to  the  place  which  heads  this  Letter  is  only  thirty 
miles.  Our  good  Landlady  gave  us  a comfortable  Breakfast  of 
Mutton  Chops,  Bacon,  Cheese,  and  excellent  Bread  and  Tea.  She 
was  a highly  respectable  woman,  and  sensible  withal,  and  whilst  I 
was  eating,  we  had  much  talk.  She  said  the  Rabbit’s  skins  sold  for 
twelve  shillings  and  six  pence  a hundi’ed — three  dollars  and  twelve 
and  a half  cents  of  our  money.  Her  Husband  had  been  a Rabbitter — 
the  name  she  gave  the  pursuit — but  the  Station  owners  and  Mana- 
gers when  they  found  he  was  doing  well  at  it,  threw  impediments  in 
the  way  or  objected  to  his  hunting  or  trapping  them  on  their  premises. 


LIND  IS  PASS  TO  PEMBROKE. 


189 


and  he  gave  it  up.  I told  her  this  seemed  to  be  a dog-in-the-manger 
policy,  and  was  much  against  their  interest,  for  I understood  they 
resorted  to  all  sorts  of  expedients,  however  expensive,  to  rid  them- 
selves of  the  pests,  complaining  that  they  wasted  their  Sheep  Runs. 
Yes  ! she  said,  that  was  true,  but  they  could  not  bear  the  idea  of  any 
one  making  money  on  their  preserves ; and  thus  they  treated  every 
Rabbitter  who  appeared  to  be  successful.  A good  deal  of  human 
Nature  in  this  ! But  I rather  think  self-interest  will  in  the  end 
triumph  over  this  churlishness ; for  it  seems  to  be,  at  last,  the  best 
remedy  for  the  disease. 

She  told  me  her  Husband  was  placer-mining  for  Gold  a few  miles 
off,  and  was  only  able  to  come  home  on  Saturday  and  spend  Sunday 
there.  She  said  he  had  not  been  a lucky  digger.  He  had  tried  it 
in  Australia,  but  without  success,  nor  had  he  been  successful  here. 
I told  her  such  was  the  story  of  the  vast  majority  who  engaged  in 
that  pursuit,  in  every  Country  and  every  age.  Of  the  many  seekers, 
few  found.  Yes ! she  said,  such  was  her  Husband’s  fate,  and  he 
said  he  was  going  to  stop — but  he  was  ever  impelled  to  go  on,  stimu- 
lated now  and  then  by  hearing  of  some  one  who  had  fallen  suddenly 
upon  a Find,  and  he  hoped  the  same  good  fortune  would  come 
to  him. 

We  started  at  nine  o’clock,  another  lovely  day,  and  our  fine  Horses, 
refreshed  by  the  rest,  ready  for  travel.  After  driving  a few  miles, 
ascending  a mountain,  I observed  two  men  at  work  in  the  ditches  in 
the  bed  of  the  River,  several  hundred  yards  below.  My  Driver 
said  one  of  them  was  Howard,  and  I determined  to  stop  and  pay 
him  a visit.  I had  some  difficulty  in  getting  down  the  steep  descent; 
but  succeeding,  found  him  and  a younger  comrade,  both  good-look- 
ing, stalwart  men,  in  their  gum-boots,  wading  and  digging  in  the 
water,  examining  every  handful  of  earth  with  the  eagerness  of  misers. 
They  had  done  an  immensity  of  work  in  damming  the  River,  and 
building  cribs  in  which  they  could  work,  having  abundance  of 
water  for  their  sifting,  without  the  River’s  current.  I inquired  for 
Howard,  and  the  older  one  responded.  I told  him  I stayed  at  his 
house  last  night,  and  his  wife  informed  me  that  he  was  looking  for 
Gold.  He  came  out  of  the  diggings  at  once  and  gave  me  a cordial 
greeting,  and  I had  a talk  with  him  and  his  comrade,  who  was  busy 
testing  with  a pewter  basin  the  value  of  their  work.  They  both  told 
me  they  had  not  met  with  much  success,  but  lived  in  hope.  Cer- 


J90 


LETTER  NO.  12. 


tainly  they  did  not  come  across  a grain  whilst  I was  there.  On 
leaving,  Howard  accompanied  me  to  the  mountain,  where  I left  my 
Buggy — and  on  the  way  took  me  to  his  tent  near  the  River  bank, 
which  he  had  fixed  up  with  a stone  chimney,  and  nicely  arranged 
with  cot  and  other  camp  doings,  reminding  me  of  my  own,  when 
on  our  rapid,  busy  Campaigns,  I had  time  to  adjust  a resting  place. 
His  comrade  had  one,  also,  near-by,  and  each  had  a small  luxuriant- 
looking  Vegetable  Garden,  which  he  said  was  Chinese.  I inferred 
he  meant  like  the  Chinese ; but  he  said  they  were  made  by  China- 
men, and  recently  he  and  his  associate  had  bought  them  from  two  of 
that  peculiar  people,  who  had  gone  to  another  point  not  far  olf.  I 
fear  John  knew  the  value  both  of  those  he  sold,  and  of  that  he 
bought.  I bade  Howard  Good-Bye ! with  many  wishes,  that  he 
miglit  have  abundant  luck  and  get  rich.  My  Driver  says  he  has  a 
family  of  eight  Daughters,  whom  he  is  trying  to  educate — and  he 
and  his  wife  are  certainly  highly  respectable  and  worthy  people. 
His  will  be,  I fear,  the  fate  of  many  who  seek  for  Gold — and  has 
been,  Barry  says,  of  great  numbers  lately  in  New  Zealand,  where  the 
Gold  Fever  has  freshly  broken  out. 

The  Country  for  some  miles  was,  in  character,  like  that  of  which 
I have  spoken.  After  a while  tlie  contour  changed  : the  Mountains 
became  more  rounded  in  shape,  and  the  Valleys  rose  into  Downs,  and 
assumed  the  form  of  Terraces  or  Mesas — exceedingly  picturesque. 
The  Stations  and  Sheep  Runs  gave  way  in  areas  to  cultivated  lands 
— called  here  Farms,  as  with  us,  and  showing  from  the  soil  and  its 
products  that  ray  inference  was  correct — when  subjected  to  the  plough. 
These  were  cultivated  under  the  natural  rainfall,  and  I learn  with 
heavy  yields  of  wheat,  and  oats,  and  vegetables.  Afar  off,  were  the 
snowy  Ranges  of  the  Southern  Alps,  to  which  farther  North,  Alount 
Cook  belongs. 

We  crossed  at  Albert  Town  or  Newcastle,  on  a Punt,  like  that  at 
Pukaki,  a fast-fiowing  River,  the  beginning  of  the  Clutha,  drawing 
Lakes  Wanaka  and  Hawea  to  the  Eastward,  and  in  three  miles  were 
at  this  Hotel,  seated  at  the  foot  of  and  in  view  of  the  former,  with  its 
Rim  of  Mountains.  It  was  three  o’clock  in  the  afternoon  when  we 
arrived. 

It  occurs  to  me  I ought  to  mention  an  interesting  fact,  of  which  I 
was  not  aware  before,  that  at  Mount  Cook  and  other  places,  in  going 
and  coming  thence,  I saw  many  Gulls — which  come  up  from  the 


PEMBROKE— LAKE  WANAKA. 


191 


Ocean  to  hatch  their  young,  and  when  grown  to  the  full  use  of  their 
wings,  seek  the  Sea,  East  or  West,  to  bathe  and  perform  untiringly 
their  evolutions  over  all  the  World,  as  we  have  seen  them,  many  a 
time  and  everywhere. 

It  was  pleasant  in  the  Evening,  when  the  Sun  went  down  and  the 
Moon  rose,  now  nearly  full,  to  enjoy  from  the  Hotel  Portico  the 
Lake,  enclosed  in  its  Mountain  circuit. 

Same  Place, 

Thursday,  March  6,  1890. 

Barry  and  his  buggy  and  I parted  this  morning,  he  going  on  to 
Queenstown,  I stopping  here  for  a day  or  two.  He  drives,  in  his 
regular  work,  the  Coach  between  that  place  and  this,  and  will  return 
with  it  to-morrow  and  take  me  to  Queenstown  on  Saturday. 

To-day  I spent  in  going  out  on  Lake  Wanaka  in  a small  Steam- 
boat, owned  and  commanded  by  Captain  Hedditch,  a pleasant,  genial 
fellow.  Thei’e  were  only  a few  of  us  Tourists  along — Rev.  Mr. 
Hampton,  his  wife  and  three  children,  and  Dr.  Waitland  Gledden, 
from  London.  Mr.  Hampton  is  of  the  Established  Church  and  is 
stationed  at  Queenstown,  on  Lake  Wakatipu,  forty-seven  miles  away, 
and  is  out  now  on  a furlough,  rusticating.  The  Doctor  is  simply 
Touring  it — a young  man  recently  graduated,  and  looking,  while  he 
travels,  for  a home  to  settle — a pleasant  party  they  proved  to  be. 

We  left  at  nine  o’clock,  and  returned  at  five  in  the  afternoon.  The 
Captain  pointed  out  the  places  of  interest — the  inlets,  the  projections, 
the  Islands,  the  Mountains,  near  and  distant,  and  their  names : I 
will  not  bother  you  with  them.  The  Lake  fis  nine  hundred  and 
twenty-eight  feet  above  the  level  of  the  Sea,  of  bright,  pure  water — 
ten  hundred  and  eighty-five  feet  in  depth ; you  see,  below  the  Ocean’s 
surface,  and  evironed  by  Mountains — a perfect  Mountain  Lake.  The 
Mountains  are  bleak  and  bare,  without  vegetation  of  any  sort,  except 
plats  of  scrubby  growth  in  gulches  here  and  there — but  not  a burly 
tree  visible  anywhere — only  savage  rock,  seamed  and  scarred  by 
Glaciers  in  cycles  gone,  save  the  distant  loftier  ones  beyond  the  im- 
mediate Range,  patched  with  snow.  The  outline  of  the  Lake  made 
by  the  Islands  and  the  projecting  and  receding  Mountains,  is  very 
irregular  and  picturesque ; and  the  Boat  in  moving  would  lose  the 


192 


LETTER  NO.  12. 


pathway  of  her  course,  and  open  up  constantly  new  vistas — making 
the  scenes  most  pleasurable. 

The  Captain  stopped  at  Manuka,  or  Weka,  or  Pigeon  Island — for 
it  bears  all  three  names — that  we  might  go  ashore,  and  ascend  its 
elevations,  it  being,  in  effect,  a Mountain  planted  in  the  Lake.  An 
easy  ascending  path  has  been  made,  which,  after  a climb  of  several 
hundred  feet,  brought  us  to  a Tarn  or  Lakelet,  of  circular  form, 
reposing  in  its  clean  waters  with  a border  of  rocks  and  thicket.  We 
sat  on  its  banks  and  enjoyed  the  scene  for  some  time,  and  whilst  there 
several  New  Zealand  Robins,  much  smaller  than  ours,  with  whitish 
breasts,  came,  and  flew,  and  hopped  familiarly  at  our  feet,  and  the 
Moka  or  Bell-Bird  sat  in  a bush  near  by,  and  filled  the  air  with  his 
melodious  notes.  We  then  ascended  to  the  top — a peak  overhanging 
the  Tarn — and  from  it  could  not  only  look  down  upon  its  waters,  but 
over  the  larger  Lake,  lying  below  in  its  many  reaches,  shining  like 
a mirror  beneath  the  Sun.  We  were  fully  repaid  for  our  climb. 

When  we  returned  to  the  Boat,  the  Captain  steamed  her  to  the 
mainland  to  take  on  some  Lumber,  which  had  been  floated  on  one 
of  the  Lake’s  affluents  from  inland  mountain  gulches ; rather  spind- 
ling Lumber  it  seemed  to  be.  Whilst  he  was  thus  engaged,  Mr. 
Hampton  and  his  family  went  ashore  and  wandered  about  with  the 
children,  lunching  under  such  shade  as  they  could  find,  for  the  Sun 
was  hot.  The  Doctor  and  I chose  the  better  part,  of  taking  ours, 
brought  with  us  from  the  Hotel,  in  the  Cabin,  with  a cup  of  hot  Tea 
made  for  us  by  the  Captain.  Whilst  here,  he  brought  an  old  man  to 
see  me — a native  of  the  United  States,  who  has  been  in  New  Zealand 
for  nearly  forty  years — a Ship  Builder  by  trade — built  the  Steam- 
boat on  which  we  navigated  the  Lake.  He  introduced  him  as  Asher 
Smith.  The  old  man  was  delighted  to  see  me ; and  we  had  a long 
talk.  He  was  one  of  the  Forty-niners  to  California ; came  a-Gold 
hunting  to  Victoria,  Australia,  in  Fifty-one — in  both  ventures  was 
successful ; came  to  New  Zealand,  but  in  the  long  time  he  has  lived 
here  has  added  nothing  to  his  fortune.  He  says  he  will  hardly  ever 
again  return  to  his  home  in  Brooklyn.  His  friends  are  all  gone,  and 
he  would  be  a stranger  there  now.  But  I have  not  time  to  detail  the 
conversation,  much  of  it  very  interesting. 

On  our  jaunt  we  talked  upon  a variety  of  topics  appertaining  to 
New  Zealand  and  its  future.  Among  them  again  came  up  the  Rabbit 
Question — the  most  important  of  those  affecting  the  Economies  of 


PEMBROKE— LAKE  HAWEA. 


193 


Australasia — in  which  our  Captain  joined.  The  Rabbitters  were  sug- 
gested, and  their  value,  and  the  curious,  churlish  qualities  developed 
by  their  success  in  the  heart  of  the  Sheep  owners,  deeply  interested, 
though  they  must  be,  in  the  matter.  It  was  answered,  that  as  curi- 
ous and  objectionable  phases  of  human  nature  were  developed  in  the 
Rabbitter,  which  probably  had  much  to  do  with  arousing  those  in 
the  Squatter’s  breast.  It  was  known,  that  when  the  Rabbitter  found 
a nest,  he  captured  the  old  ones  for  their  skins,  and  let  the  young 
ones  go,  regardless  of  the  Squatter’s  interest,  that  they  may  grow  up 
and  furnish  material  for  the  next  season’s  profit — he  will  not  be  guilty 
of  the  folly  of  thus  using  up  the  seed-corn  of  his  future  labor.  Just 
as  they  said,  it  was  well  known  it  was  done  by  these  same  or  similar 
people  when  employed  to  dig  up  the  Scotch  Thistle : they  were 
caught,  apparently,  honestly  working,  secretly  sowing  the  seed  for  a 
future  Harvest.  How  many  complexions  does  the  Rabbit  Question 
assume?  One  would  have  hardly  thought  it  had  produced  such  a 
number  of  moral  and  philosophical  issues — hexagonal : much  like 
Pisistratus  Caxton’s  Geometrical  definition  of  Truth. 

On  our  return,  the  wind  arose,  and  whilst  it  cooled  the  air,  brought 
up  thin  clouds  and  spread  them  over  the  Sky.  Such  doings  with 
us,  in  mixing  up  the  elements,  would  betoken  change  of  weather.  I 
should  think  it  ought  here,  too — a little  Island  girdled  with  world- 
circling  waters.  The  knowing  ones  say  not — only  betokens  wind. 
We  will  see.  Certainly,  the  wind  came,  and  at  bed-time  was  blow- 
ing quite  a gale. 

Same  Place,  Friday,  March  7,  1890. 

To-day  I hired  from  the  Landlady  a Buggy  and  pair  of  good 
Horses,  and  with  a Driver  went  to  visit  Lake  Hawea — ten  miles  off. 
The  Rain  did  not  come,  only  the  clouds  were  out,  and  enabled  me 
the  more  comfortably  to  ride  in  the  open  Vehicle.  We  retraced  my 
Road  to  Albert  Town  or  Newcastle;  there  again  crossed,  on  the 
Punt,  the  Clutha  River,  chiefly  made  here,  at  its  beginning,  of  the 
out-flow  of  the  two  Lakes  Wanaka  and  Hawea;  the  latter  coming 
in  a short  distance  above  the  Ferry,  and  resulting  in  the  fine,  fast- 
flowing River,  of  which  I spoke  when  I crossed  it  the  other  day. 

We  continued  over  a good  Road,  up  the  Hawea  River,  though 
some  distance  from  it ; the  Mountains  encircling  the  Lake  before  us, 
and  with  their  bulk  completely  hiding  it  from  view.  Between  them 
13 


194 


LETTER  NO.  IZ. 


and  me  the  Country  was  Plain  and  Terrace  or  Mesa,  and  along  the 
base  of  the  Mountains  was  converted  into  Farms,  by  which  we  rode 
on  our  return,  going  across  the  Plains.  These  Farms  extend  for 
five  or  six  miles,  and  ai’e  conspicuous  by  the  trees — principally  Lom- 
bardy Poplar,  Willows  and  Pine,  and  a few  Eucalypti  or  Australian 
Gum  Trees ; these  are  the  prevailing  Exotics  and  ornamental  trees, 
and  are  about  this  Hotel  and  the  other  Houses,  which  make  up  the 
settlements  of  Pembroke. 

These  farms  are  well  cultivated,  and  evidently  good  soil.  I under- 
stand, yielding  from  thirty  to  fifty  Bushels  of  wheat  per  acre.  They 
are  now  ploughing  for  the  fall  crop — will  put  in  the  seed  next 
month — you  know  March  is  the  first  Autumn  month  ; the  seasons 
here  being  just  the  reverse  of  ours.  The  Ploughs  had  three  sheares 
and  run  with  wheels — three  horses  walking  with  perfect  ease,  turn- 
ing up  the  dark  mould-colored,  pulverulent  soil.  Much  of  the  last 
year’s  crop  was  in  well-built  stacks  of  rich  golden  straw,  and  the 
Horses,  Cattle  and  Sheep,  were  of  good  quality  and  fat ; the  last,  as 
I observed  them  over  the  whole  Island,  pure  Merinos — they  tell  me, 
the  best  for  this  Country.  Evidently  these  are  good  lands  and  well 
farmed ; the  chief  trouble  is  want  of  a Market  for  their  products, 
when  grown;  the  fields  are  divided  by  well-built  wire  fencing,  for 
there  is  no  timber  hereabouts.  My  Driver  tells  me  these  farms 
average  from  one  hundred  and  fifty  to  three  hundred  acres. 

Nearing  the  Lake  I descended  from  the  Buggy  and  climbed  to 
the  top  of  the  Terrace,  whence  I had  a clear  view  of  it  and  its  Moun- 
tain Rim  : a fine  sheet  of  water,  but  inferior  to  its  neighbor,  Wanaka, 
in  picturesque  variety  of  outline — though  one  of  its  Mountain  Ranges 
is  superior  to  any  on  the  border  of  that  Lake,  being  snow-clad  and 
coming  down  to  the  water  with  precipitous  sides.  I walked  across 
the  elevated  Terrace,  and  then  down  to  the  outlet  in  the  Hawea 
River,  running  rapidly  with  clear  bright  green  current.  There  my 
Buggy  met  me. 

The  only  living  thing  about  were  some  small  Lizards  glancing 
rapidly  through  the  pebbles  and  Rocks  upon  the  shore — and  these 
are  the  only  “ varments,”  of  any  sort,  I have  seen  in  New  Zealand. 
You  know  there  are  no  Snakes  or  Reptiles  here.  Nature  has  for- 
bidden, in  these  blessed  Islands,  what  St.  Patrick  is  honored  for 
having  driven  from  the  bounds  of  Erin.  I can  testify  to  the  Fish, 
which  inhabit  their  waters,  having  seen  a trout  taken  from  Wanaka 


PEMBROKE  TO  QUEENSTOWN. 


195 


of  twenty-one  pounds,  which  has  helped  us  to  enjoy  several  meals  at 
this  Hotel. 

We  returned  without  mishap  or  incident.  My  Friend,  Mr. 
Hampton  and  his  family  left  this  afternoon,  and  two  Englishmen, 
a New  Zealand  Bank  Manager  and  Bank  Inspector,  arrived  by  a 
private  Buggy,  and  later  on,  about  six  o’clock,  my  Driver  Barry 
with  three  or  four  in  his  stage — all  Britishers — with  whom  I had 
some  talk — not  worth  putting  down. 

The  wind  was  abroad  again  this  Evening.  What  will  it  bring? 
I hope  not  rain  till  at  least  I get  to  Queenstown,  whither  I go 
to-morrow. 

Queenstown,  New  Zealand, 

On  Lake  Wakatipu,  Eichaedt’s  Hotel, 

Saturday,  31arch  8,  1890. 

At  nine  this  morning  I bade  farewell  to  Lake  Wanaka,  and  by 
six  in  the  afternoon  was  safely  landed  at  the  Hotel  and  Town  which 
heads  this  day’s  story. 

I came  in  the  regular  Coach — an  uncovered  four-seated  Carriage, 
thus  called  here — Barry  driving.  My  companions  were  Dr.  Gledden 
and  a Britisher — the  Bank  Inspector,  of  whom  I have  spoken,  his 
comrade  going  back  from  Wanaka,  whence  they  came  : I think  Crom- 
well. The  Doctor  and  I occupied  the  Box  with  the  Driver : the 
Britisher  occupied  one  of  the  seats  behind.  He  was  a typical  fellow, 
from  London,  born  within  sound  of  Bow  Bells,  very  provincial  and 
ignorant,  and  I was  not  dissatisfied  to  have  him  behind  me  on  a 
lower  seat.  The  k Doctor,  and  Barry  and  I had  the  seat  and  talk  to 
ourselves. 

Travelling  Southwestward,  we  soon  struck  the  Cardroua  River, 
which  flows  into  the  Clutha  at  Newcastle,  or  Albert  Town.  I ought 
to  mention  that  the  latter  is  the  Village  located  on  the  West  bank 
of  the  Clutha : Newcastle  really  has  no  existence ; a town  has  been 
laid  out  on  the  opposite  bank,  and  thus  called,  but  not  a house  built 
or  a foundation  dug,  simply  Nominis  Umbra,  the  shadow  of  a name 
upon  the  Map  : thus  it  is,  too,  with  Gladstone,  at  the  foot  of  Hawea, 
which  appears  so  big  on  the  Map  I sent  you — not  the  sign  of  a town 
there,  only  the  Terrace  of  Tussock,  over  which  I walked  to  view  the 
Lake  yesterday. 


196 


LETTER  NO.  12. 


We  travelled  sixteen  miles  along  the  River  to  Cardrona,  a small 
collection  of  Houses,  including  Hotel  and  Stores.  The  River-bed  is 
large — now  only  a waste  of  shingle — small  stones  and  boulders — 
through  which  the  muddy  thread  of  itself  now  flows.  The  dry 
weather  and  the  Gold  diggers  having  consumed  and  polluted  its 
naturally  abundant  and  bright  waters.  The  whole  bed  and  adjacent 
Country  are  placers,  whence  much  Gold  has  been  dug,  and  where 
many  are  digging  now.  I told  you  how  such  a Country  looked  on 
my  First  Tour  through  California  and  Colorado — how  every  hand- 
ful of  earth  and  stone  seems  to  have  been  sifted  and  the  Mountains 
honeycombed.  Here  and  thei’e  are  Tent-Huts,  where  the  seekers 
pass  their  nights,  dreaming  of  Finds  never  found ; among  them,  not 
a few  of  the  inevitable  John  Chinamen,  who  seem  to  have  fixed 
themselves  more  comfortably  and  permanently  than  the  whites,  look- 
ing as  if  they  had  come  to  stay,  and  test  fickle  Fortune  to  the  full. 
There  is  nothing  attractive  about  Gold  Diggings,  either  in  their 
appearance  or  their  story. 

We  stopped  at  Cardrona  for  a shoi’t  time  to  change  horses;  whilst 
doing  it,  I took  a glass  of  milk  and  some  bread  and  butter,  and  then 
drove  on  with  three  horses  instead  of  two,  having  to  surmount  the 
Crown  Range,  an  elevation  of  several  thousand  feet,  whence  we  had 
a superb  view  of  the  Mountains  and  the  Valleys  in  their  nooks  far 
below  us, — Queenstown  and  Lake  Wakatipu  in  the  distance,  showing 
dimly.  We  descended  to  Arrowtown,  on  the  Arrow  River,  by  a 
long,  admirably  constructed,  winding  Road  : below  us  the  Valleys 
opening  with  wide-spread,  well-cultivated  Farms,  abounding  in  crops 
of  wheat  and  oats — some  secured  in  well-built  stacks,  some  in  Stukes, 
as  they  call  them,  simple  piles  of  sheaves — for  they  never  shock  as 
we  do — some  standing  in  the  field  quite  ready  to  be  cut — some  falling 
before  the  Binders,  doing  good  and  easy  work  over  the  level  fields : — 
beautiful  farm  lands — beautifully  farmed.  From  the  elevation.  Lake 
Hayes,  a good  sized  mountain  Pool,  almost  at  our  feet,  opened  on  us, 
to  add  to  the  beauty  of  the  scene,  and  Arrowtown,  like  a plat  laid  out 
in  squares  with  shrubbery  and  trees — distant  from  Cardrona  eighteen 
miles. 

Here  we  stopped  at  three  o’clock,  and  lunched,  and  again  changed 
horses  : after  which  we  came  thirteen  miles  to  Queenstown,  and  at 
six  o’clock  were  landed  at  this  Hotel,  overlooking  the  waters  of 
Wakatipu,  one  of  New  Zealand’s  most  celebrated  and  most  frequented 


QUEENSTOWN. 


197 


Lakes.  On  the  way,  we  saw  the  Gold  Diggers  at  work  again,  and 
this  time  not  alone  with  pick  and  spade  and  hand,  but  with  a Steam 
Dredge,  owned  by  See  Hoy,  a Cdestial, — now  one  of  the  wealthiest 
men  in  the  Islands — whose  fascinations  of  person  or  gold  charmed  a 
red-headed  Highland  Lassie,  and  united  in  the  Bonds  of  Matrimony 
the  Land  o’  Cakes  and  of  Celestial  Pigtails.  May  much  bliss  be 
theirs ! 

Evidently  a good  House  is  this.  I got  a comfortable  Room — soon 
thereafter  I got  a comfortable  Dinner ; with  quite  a Hotel  full  of 
guests.  I found  a Letter  from  Friend  Vine,  stating  that  he  had 
been  succesful  in  all  my  commissions  and  how  glad  he  was  to  attend 
to  them.  Very  kind  and  courteous  in  him. 

And  then  I walked  out  upon  the  Shore,  and  looked  at  the  little 
Steamer,  well-built  and  neat,  with  which  I hope  to  navigate  the 
Lakes,  and  enjoyed  the  Mountain  scenery,  rounding  its  waters ; and 
thence  went  to  a Shoemaker’s,  by  this  time  lamp-lighted,  and  got  him 
to  stitch  one  of  my  shoes,  and  whilst  sitting  on  his  bench  a-talking 
to  him,  which  shoemakers  love  to  do,  my  overcoat  tail  fell  into  a pail 
of  water  by  my  side,  where  it  must  have  rested  some  time,  I oblivious ; 
when  going,  I observed  it  and  expressed  concern,  but  he  declared  it 
was  clean  water  and  would  not  soil  my  coat,  and  ran  and  brought  a 
towel  and  wiped  it  for  me:  but,  the  not  soiling  of  it,  I didn’t  believe 
— a bucket  of  water  by  a shoemaker’s  bench  must  be  dirty,  and  I 
told  him  so — at  which  he  laughed — and  then  I went  next  door  to  a 
Barber’s — a big,  burly  chap,  fitter  for  a Sailor  or  a Soldier — who  in 
a jiffy  cut  my  hair  in  a style  which  I wish  ray  home  Barber  could 
handle ; and  then  I came  back  to  my  Room,  where  I am  telling  you 
these  things,  and  now,  like  a sensible  traveller,  am  going  forthwith 
to  bed. 

Same  Place  and  Hotel, 

Sunday,  March  9,  1890. 

Wakatipu  is  pronounced  Wakatip — the  final  u dropped — the  only 
Mahori  word  I have  heard  where  a vowel  or  a syllable  is  dropped  or 
silent.  I do  not  know  how  this  came  about. 

I forgot  to  tell  you,  that  yesterday  we  passed  a Coal  Mine  recently 
opened — Barry  said  of  excellent  quality  and  quantity.  Hew  Zealand 
has  no  lack  of  this  invaluable  commodity ; I think  I alluded  to  it 
when  with  Mr.  Malfroy, — how  he  won  the  Gold  medal  for  it  at  the 


J98 


LETTER  NO.  IS. 


Paris  Exposition,  by  showing  that  it  saved  the  Ship  which  fled  before 
the  Samoan  Cyclone.  This  Coal  comes  from  Greymouth  and  West- 
port,  and  there  are  other  deposits  of  it.  I saw  near  this  place,  also, 
fine  Hedges  of  Hawthorn — growing  luxuriantly  without  blight — you 
remember,  on  the  East  Coast  it  did  not  flourish. 

I remained  quietly  in-doors  : made  no  jaunts — there  is  one  to  Ben 
Lomond,  a lofty  climb  of  several  miles  : but  I have  from  various 
points  seen  most  that  mountain’s  top  can  show — and  the  Sun  was 
very  hot  all  day — though  the  Sky  was  beautifully  clear  for  obser- 
vation. In  the  afternoon,  in  the  cool,  I walked  over  and  upon  the 
heights  around  Queenstown  and  saw  how  the  town  lay.  It  is  a place 
of  six  or  eight  hundred  people,  seated  snugly  on  a flat  at  the  head  of 
a recess  or  inlet  of  the  Lake  and  dominated  by  hills  and  mountains 
all  around,  save  its  front,  which  looks  out  upon  the  water.  It  does 
not  appear  to  be  flourishing.  The  Tourist  and  Gold  Fever  both 
over-boomed  it,  and  receding,  left  it  flat.  Houses  were  built  which 
were  not  needed,  and  are  now  closed,  awaiting  another  boom,  which, 
alas ! may  not  come  till  this  generation  have  been  gathered  to  their 
fathers.  This  Hotel,  standing  right  upon  the  Lake — a road  only 
intervening — and  a few  other  structures  are  the  only  conspicuous 
buildings  in  the  town. 

But  I was  glad  there  was  no  more  to  see.  I rested,  and  dismissing 
New  Zealand’s  things,  and  places,  and  thoughts,  I paid  a visit  to  you 
all  upon  the  wings  of  Memory  and  Imagination.  The  day  was  mostly 
spent  with  you — convening  you  around  me  or  putting  myself  in  your 
midst,  and  I thought,  how  impossible  for  you  to  conceive  where  I 
was,  or  what  a-doing — I on  a Lake  and  in  a town  you  never  so  much 
as  heard  of  before,  in  the  land  of  the  Antipodes. 

I don’t  know  what  I should  do  without  these  Letters,  in  which  I 
hold  sweet  converse  with  you,  and  keep  you  by  my  side,  every  day, 
even  in  circling  the  Globe.  Whatever  manual  labor  they  entail  upon 
me,  I am  fully  compensated  for,  not  only  in  that  converse,  but  in  the 
pleasure,  I trust,  you  derive,  in  being  thus  my  fellow-traveller.  I 
send  you  greetings.  I would  the  time  had  come  when,  as  predicted, 
we  can  waft  our  thoughts  from  “ Indus  to  the  Pole,”  and  without 
even  the  intervention  of  a wire  or  a pen. 


QUEENSTOWN. 


199 


Kingston,  at  foot  of  Lake  Wakatipu, 

^ Spear’s  Hotel, 

Monday,  March  10,  1890. 

To-day  has  been  spent  in  navigating  Lake  Wakatipu. 

Barry  came  to  see  me  before  I left  Queenstown  this  morning,  to 
bid  me  Good  Bye ! and  wish  me  all  happy  and  prosperous  things.  I 
heard  him  say  on  the  Route,  that  he  owed  his  subscription  to  the 
Racing  Club,  and  he  did  not  want  to  meet  the  President  till  he  had 
money  enough  to  pay  it.  He  is  an  enthusiast  about  Horses  and 
Racing,  though  he  was  thrown  in  riding  one,  and  hence  resulted 
his  deformity.  I gave  him,  in  recognition  of  his  attention  to  me, 
money  enough  to  pay  his  dues — which  I am  sure  he  duly  appreci- 
ated— and  thereby  left  in  his  memory  kind  recollections. 

Yesterday,  a gentleman  introduced  himself  to  me  at  table,  and  said 
he  was  from  Brisbane,  Australia — a Scotchman  by  birth,  from  Edin- 
burgh, who  came  to  Australia  fifteen  years  ago  and  has  thriven — a 
Bookseller  and  Stationer.  He  gave  me  his  card — Sinclair  Rowney — • 
and  said  I must  be  sure  to  make  myself  known  to  him,  when  I came 
there  on  my  travels,  that  he  might  be  of  service  in  showing  me  the 
objects  of  interest  to  the  stranger.  He  introduced  me  to  his  Sister, 
Mrs.  Ritchie,  who  lives  at  Port  Chalmers,  not  far  from  Dunedin,  and 
she  extended  the  same  invitation  to  visit  her  in  her  home  there.  Both 
were  with  me  on  the  Lake  to-day.  Dr.  Gledden,  also,  was  along  from 
Queenstown  to  the  head  of  the  Lake  and  back,  and  told  me  there 
were  two  young  Americans  aboard,  and  pointed  them  out.  Passing 
near,  I called  them  and  introduced  myself — to  which  they  pleasingly 
responded  by  a counter  introduction — one.  Parsons,  from  the  City  of 
New  York,  and  the  other  Freeman,  from  Annapolis, — the  latter  told 
me  he  is  a Cousin  of  Blake’s  wife,  late,  you  know,  the  Agent  on 
the  Baltimore  and  Ohio  Railroad — now  on  the  Cumberland  Valley. 
Taylor  must  see  Blake.  I was  gratified  to  tell  him  I knew  Blake 
well  and  favorably.  Strange  are  the  meetings  in  this  now  diminutive 
Whispering  Gallery  of  a World!  Freeman  has  been  an  extensive 
traveller  in  foreign  Countries — on  business  for  Firms  in  New  York — 
and  is  a gentlemanly,  sensible  fellow.  Both  he  and  Parsons  seemed 
glad  to  meet  me,  and  during  the  day  showed  me  every  civility  and 
courtesy  ; and  we  had  much  talk. 


200 


LETTER  NO.  12. 


Before  we  left  Queenstown,  I got  the  Hotel  Proprietor  to  telegraph 
to  Kingston  for  a Room  to-night,  and  to  the  Grand  Hotel,  Dunedin, 
for  one  to-morrow  night.  There  is  to  be  a contest  of  the  Brass  Bands 
of  the  Colony  at  the  Exhibition — one  from  Queenstown  is  going 
down,  and  the  crowd  tending  that  way  will  be  almost  unmanageable. 
He,  also,  introduced  me  to  a gentleman  who  said  he  would  see  the 
Proprietor  of  the  larger  Hotel — Spear’s — and  secure  me  a Room  for 
to-night : which  promise  he  fulfilled. 

The  little  Steamer — Mountaineer — moved  out  from  Queenstown 
at  eight  o’clock,  for  the  Head  of  the  Lake — distant  thirty-five  miles — 
a handsome,  comfortable  affair,  on  which  we  had  a good  Lunch  at 
mid-day.  Another  clear,  fine  day  enabled  us  to  see  the  Lake  and  its 
surroundings  most  favorably.  The  Map  I sent  you  will  show  the 
formation  of  this  beautiful  sheet  of  water — about  fifty  miles  in  length, 
varying  in  width  from  two  to  three  miles,  shaped  not  unlike  an  S. 
Its  surface  is  one  thousand  and  seventy  feet  above  the  Sea ; its  depth 
from  eleven  hundred  and  seventy  to  twelve  hundred  and  forty — the 
whole  bottom  being  nearly  level  from  shore  to  shore — a huge  trough. 
Its  waters  are  clear  Blue,  and  big  Mountains  rim  it  round — some  of 
them  naked  rock  from  top  to  bottom,  seared  and  marked  by  water 
and  ice  in  the  ages — some  here  and  there  on  their  flanks  or  in  their 
Gorges  adorned  by  clumps  of  trees,  and  at  the  head,  behind  Kinloch 
and  Glenoi’chy,  a group  of  Mountain  Peaks,  some  of  them  clad  with 
Glaciers  and  Snow,  over  which  Mount  Earnslaw,  nine  thousand  one 
hundred  and  sixty-five  feet  in  height,  towers  with  its  peak  of  white — 
a splendid  spectacle. 

We  stopped  a while  at  both  Kinloch  and  Glenorchy,  where  there 
are  Hotels — and  scarce  any  other  houses — and  whence  the  mountain 
climber  can  find  much  wherewith  to  entei’tain  and  exercise  himself. 
I have  ever  been  of  the  opinion,  and  maybe  have  expressed  it  some- 
where in  these  Letters,  that  a Mountain  looks  better  from  below  than 
from  above — and  all,  without  the  trouble  of  getting  up. 

We  reached  Queenstown  at  mid-day  on  our  return.  Here  my 
English  Doctor  left  me ; my  other  friends  continued-  on  the  Boat. 
We  delayed  long  enough  at  the  wharf  to  take  on  board  the  Queens- 
town Band,  going  to  Dunedin  to  win  or  lose  the  prize — the  latter  most 
unquestionably  if  the  sample  of  Music  they  gave  us  be  evidence  of 
their  excellence.  A crowd  of  their  friends  came  down  to  wave  them 
otf,  and  many  accompanied  them,  till  at  last  there  was  scarce  standing 


KINGSTON. 


201 


room  on  the  little  Vessel.  The  Mountain  Scenery  was  good  along 
the  Southern  arm  of  the  Lake : but  not  equal  to  the  North.  The 
Remarkables  or  Hector  Range  bounding  it  on  the  East  is  a jagged, 
fierce,  and  lofty  Guard,  and  adds  greatly  to  the  scene.  The  other 
Mountains  let  down,  steaming  Southward.  The  wind  rose  whilst 
we  advanced — approaching  Kingston,  increased  to  quite  a gale. 

Two  small  Hotels  alone  welcomed  us,  constituting  in  effect  the 
town,  quite  manifestly ; not  nearly  large  enough  to  accommodate  the 
crowd.  The  Landing  was  some  distance  off  and  the  walk  considerable. 
My  young  American  Friends  helped  me  with  my  Satchel.  My  Aus- 
tralian Friend  and  his  Sister  hnrried  on,  in  advance  of  the  crowd, 
and  when  I reached  the  Hotel  he  had  secured  a Room  for  his  Sister 
and  one  for  himself,  with  two  Beds,  which  he  said  he  had  equally 
intended  for  me.  This  was  very  considerate  and  kind.  When  will 
the  kindness  shown  me  on  my  travels  cease,  or  how  can  it  be  esti- 
mated ? — coming,  too,  from  total  strangers.  Many  had  to  lie  upon 
the  floors — some  slept  in  the  cars,  with  no  covering  but  their  over- 
coats ; I had  a nice  Room  and  Bed  and  a comfortable  night’s  rest. 
Doubtless,  the  Proprietor  would  have  saved  me  a Bed,  but  that  does 
not  diminish  my  obligation  to  my  new-made  Friend. 

At  the  Dinner  table,  I had  more  talk  with  a gentleman  near  me 
concerning  the  Rabbits.  Of  course,  you  want  to  know  all  I hear 
about  the  interesting,  mnch-abused  Cotton-Tail,  dead  or  alive.  He  said 
that  several  Rabbit-Canning  Establishments  had  been  started  recently, 
and  with  great  success,  the  meat  finding  favor  in  London  and  Paris — 
especially  the  latter  toothsome  City — thus  affording  the  Rabbitter  a 
market  not  only  for  the  skins,  but,  also,  for  the  carcass,  which  hitherto, 
beyond  his  own  consumption,  had  been  thrown  away  and  lost.  This 
adds  still  further  to  the  probable  solution  of  the  vexed  question : which 
we  are  trying  to  settle  for  the  long-suffering  Australasian, 

Dunedin,  New  Zealand, 

Grand  Hotel, 

Tuesday,  March  11,  1890. 

I had  a sound  night’s  rest  in  Kingston — the  Bed  was  good  and 
my  long  day  on  the  Lake  made  me  I’eady  for  it,  and  when  the  morn- 
ing came,  I was  ready  for  an  equally  long  day  upon  the  Rail  to  this 
City  of  Dunedin.  The  distance  is  one  hundred  and  seventy  miles ; 


202 


LETTER  NO.  n. 


the  Road  narrow  gauge,  like  all  others  in  New  Zealand,  with  cars 
both  First  and  Second  class.  In  England,  you  remember,  I nearly 
always  rode  Second  class,  because  they  were  not  only  cheaper  than 
the  First,  but  better  cars  for  observation.  I could  not  do  thus  here. 
The  Second  class  have  no  comforts  or  conveniences  to  invite  their 
nse,  and  I have,  therefore,  always  in  New  Zealand  ridden  First.  The 
Roads,  probably  I have  mentioned,  are  mostly  owned  and  run  by  the 
Government ; and  of  their  management,  I have  found  nothing  to 
complain. 

We  left  Kingston  at  half-past  seven,  and  reached  here  at  seven  in 
the  Evening;  starting  with  a long,  full  train,  increasing  at  the  various 
towns  and  stations  as  we  proceeded,  till  on  our  arrival  here,  we  had 
two  Locomotives  and  about  thirty  well-filled  cars.  Several  additional 
Bands  got  on,  to  try  their  fortunes  for  the  prize.  I received  the 
benefit  of  the  Excursion,  in  my  cheapened  ticket — the  regular  fare 
being  thirty-three  shillings — I obtaining  ticket  and  return  for  eigh- 
teen ; the  return  of  course  I can  throw  or  give  away,  or  sell.  My 
Friend  Rowney  secured  me,  in  the  crowd,  a good  seat.  Changing  at 
Gore — nearly  half  way — my  young  American  Friends  secured  me  a 
seat  and  invited  me  to  join  them — which  I did — thus  dividing  my 
company — for  the  crowd  and  rush  were  too  great  to  obtain  seats  for 
all  together.  When  we  arrived  here,  Mr.  Rowney  and  his  Sister, 
who  went  on  to  her  home  at  Port  Chalmers,  nine  miles  down,  gave 
me  a pressing  invitation  to  come  and  see  them,  and  send  them  a line 
what  day  I would  be  there ; and  then  we  parted — hospitable,  canny, 
good  Scotch  people  they  evidently  are.  Maybe  he  and  I may  meet 
again  iu  Brisbane. 

Freeman  and  Parsons  and  I walked  to  this  Hotel.  The  Proprietor 
had  received  the  Telegram,  and  a nice  front  Room  was  ready  for  me, 
outlooking  upon  one  of  the  principal  streets  and  squares,  where  I am 
now  putting  down  these  lines  for  your  entertainment.  My  Trunk 
and  Chair,  by  the  kindness  of  Mr.  Vine,  also  had  been  sent  and  were 
here.  The  Country  and  scene  during  my  ride  to-day  were  different 
from  those  I have  written  you  of  on  my  journey  from  Mount  Cook. 
The  Pastoral  changed  to  the  Agricultural.  Along  the  route,  fields  of 
Wheat  and  Oats  took  the  place  of  Tussock — and  fine  fields  they  were, 
the  like  of  which  I would  be  delighted  to  see  upon  my  Farm.  It  is 
nearly  all  of  it  still  out : in  Stukes,  or  standing  uncut — a small  pro- 
portion stacked.  Whilst  it  looks  admirable  to  me,  there  is  complaint. 


DUNEDIN. 


203 


that  the  excessive  drought  that  has  prevailed  has  cut  it  short.  But 
the  sheaves,  when  cut,  are  very  numerous,  and  the  grain,  when  stand- 
ing, thick,  and  the  straw  clean  and  golden.  It  is  evidently  a fine 
Wheat  and  Oats  Country. 

The  Mountains  open  out  and  the  Country  expands  into  terraces 
and  plains — that  between  Lumsden  and  Gore  a vast  expanse,  called 
the  Waimea  Plains — over  which  elegant  crops  appeared,  and  excellent 
Horses,  Cattle,  and  Sheep  roamed.  The  Homes,  too,  and  Barns  were 
better,  showing  a more  settled  and  well-to-do  condition  of  affairs,  and 
around  them,  much  vegetation  and  adornment.  Between  Kingston 
and  Lumsden  great  complaint  has  existed  with  regard  to  the  Rabbits. 
But  being  in  the  morning,  I did  not  see  many : for  the  Ladies  and 
Gentlemen  of  that  now  famous  Race  take  their  promenades  in  the 
cool  of  the  day. 

Approaching  Dunedin,  things  get  better  still : we  cross  the  Clutha 
River,  and  Balclutha  is  a beautiful  and  flourishing  site ; and  in  a few 
miles  we  pass  Mossgiel,  a celebrated  Woolen  Factory;  and  soon  the 
suburbs  of  Dunedin  are  around  us,  and  then  the  City,  located  upon 
Hill  and  Vale. 

Same  City  and  Hotel, 

Wednesday,  March  12,  1890. 

Going  from  my  Room  to  Breakfast,  I was  hailed ; turning  around 
I met  Sir  Thomas  Mackelwraith,  who  gave  me  a cordial  greeting. 
He  and  his  family  arrived  a few  days  ago  from  Mount  Cook,  will  be 
here  some  time,  and  will  probably  go  to  Hobart,  Tasmania,  in  the 
same  Steamer  with  myself. 

I went  to  the  Office  of  the  Union  S.  S.  Company  and  found  that 
my  young  Friend  Vine  had  done  all  he  promised,  aud  my  Berth  w’as 
secured  on  the  Steamer  for  the  twentieth  of  this  month.  Here  is 
another  long  delay  for  want  of  connections : you  will  recall  how  much 
time  I have  already  lost  from  that  cause — deferring  your  hojie  of  my 
speedy  return.  This  cannot  be  avoided.  The  Steamers  are  weekly 
to  Melbourne,  only  those  of  the  alternate  weeks  calling  at  Hobart. 
If  I should  go  direct  to  Melbourne,  it  would  necessitate  a return  in 
effect  to  Tasmania — thus  losing  both  time  and  money  in  addition  to 
the  expenditure  of  a good  deal  of  labor.  This,  however,  you  remem- 
ber, I told  you  accompanied  these  long  Tours — I lost  much  time  in 
South  America  in  this  way ; I expected  it  here,  and  have  not  been 


204 


LETTER  NO.  IS. 


disappointed.  Let  us  console  ourselves,  that  it  is  the  last  world- 
around  Tour  I shall  ever  make,  and  maybe  is  now  for  the  best — 
compelling  me  to  rest,  amid  what  must  seem  to  you  great  fatigues 
of  mind  and  body,  in  the  character  and  kind  of  travel  I have  been 
undergoing  in  New  Zealand,  and  in  the  midst  of  them  keeping  their 
Record — which  I sincerely  hope  may  be  some  compensation  for  my 
absence.  But  when  travelling,  I cannot  bear  to  waste,  or  seem  to 
waste,  time.  What  I shall  do  in  Dunedin  for  a week  I cannot  tell. 
But  nobody  can  consume  time  with  himself  better  than  I. 

Of  course  my  first  point  of  observation  was  the  Exposition — which 
has  put  agog  these  Islands  and  brought  hither  the  crowds  of.  which  I 
have  often  spoken  and  filled  them  as  they  have  probably  never  been 
filled  before.  Happily  the  throng  came  and  went  in  Dunedin  before  I 
arrived.  In  other  parts  of  both  Islands,  they  were  frequently  incon- 
venient to  me  in  my  progress,  crowding  conveyances  and  Hotels,  yet 
at  the  same  time  bringing  civilities,  which  relieved  me  greatly ; but 
now  in  this  City  no  inconvenience  occurs.  The  foreigner  has  come 
and  seen  and  gone ; the  rustic  has  returned,  too,  to  his  home,  with 
news  enough  to  entertain  for  many  a day  those  left  behind. 

The  City  claims  thirty-five  thousand  inhabitants — and  for  such  a 
population,  the  Exhibit  is  most  creditable — especially  considering  the 
vast  distances  most  of  the  articles  had  to  be  brought.  The  collection 
is  mainly  Colonial — these  Islands  and  Australia ; and  especially 
interesting  to  the  stranger  visiting  these  Countries  to  see  their  curi- 
osities and  resources. 

I cannot  stop  to  give  you  anything  like  a detail  of  the  contents 
of  the  extensive  Buildings  : very,  very  meagre  in  comparison  with 
what  you  saw  in  Philadelphia  in  1876,  yet  most  creditable  to  a 
Colony  celebrating  its  Eiftieth  Anniversary — both  in  natural  and 
manufactured  products.  Australia  has  some  striking  exhibits — that, 
showing  the  amount  of  Gold  and  Silver  which  have  been  taken  from 
her  soil — and  models  representing  the  nuggets  of  the  former — are 
simply  astounding ; one  of  these  nuggets  was  worth  ten  thousand 
pounds,  or  fifty  thousand  dollars.  But  you  must  excuse  me  from 
any  detail.  It  would  be  simply  a weary  Catalogue. 

I spent  some  hours  at  the  Building  in  the  Morning,  and  was 
sufficiently  interested  to  go  back  again  in  the  afternoon,  and  spend  a 
few  more.  On  the  latter  occasion,  I was  entertained  in  the  Concert 
Hall  of  the  Exposition  by  an  Orchestra,  mainly  of  string  instruments. 


DUNEDIN. 


205 


which,  according  to  my  views  and  taste,  did  their  part  admirably 
well.  They  didn’t  make  half  as  much  noise  or  to-do  as  Thomas’  did, 
you  remember,  in  Chicago,  on  my  First  Tour ; for  they  did  surely 
make  a thundering  noise,  and  Thomas,  I thought,  would  have  torn 
himself  to  pieces.  That  was  Scientific,  and  high  Art,  and  everybody 
was  earried  away  : this  was  more  quiet  and  unpretentious,  and  whilst 
the  Leader  didn’t  go  into  fits  or  seem  to  have  the  jim-jams,  he  deported 
himself  with  great  propriety,  and  his  Orchestra  followed  his  gesticu- 
lations with  sweet  music — which,  if  it  did  not  turn  the  heads  of  his 
audience,  seemed  really  to  touch  their  hearts.  And  isn’t  that  the 
design  of  Music  ? — especially  when  we  know,  that  he  who  makes  the 
simple  Ballads  of  a people,  is  better  than  he  who  makes  their  Laws : 
the  latter  guiding  their  actions,  maybe;  the  other  directing  them  to 
heroic  aims.  That  which  survives  the  longest  of  the  grandest  Opera 
are  not  the  science  and  wonderful  art  displayed  in  its  constructions, 
but  the  simple  airs  creeping  out  in  its  progress,  that  enter  into  the 
hearts  of  the  people,  and  the  little  boys  and  girls,  for  many  a day 
thereafter,  hum  along  the  streets. 

Same  City  and  Hotel, 

Thursday,  March  13,  1890. 

At  Breakfast,  I met  Sir  Thomas  and  Lady  Mackelwraith,  and  had 
some  pleasant  talk  : but  nothing  worth  detailing. 

Winding  up  my  watch,  I heard  a whir,  and  knew  the  spring  had 
gone.  In  coming  from  Kingston,  I met  a young  man  by  the  name 
of  Hyams,  travelling  with  Freeman  and  Parsons,  who,  they  told  me, 
was  a Jeweler  and  Watchmaker  here.  I found  out  his  store  and 
trusted  the  watch  to  him  for  repair,  telling  him  of  its  value.  He 
promised  to  put  it  in  safe  hands.  I,  also,  bought  from  him  a Silver 
Cake-knife  for  the  Set. 

I walked  on  out  Princes  Streeet,  where  Hyams’  store  is,  and 
George  Street,  its  continuation,  to  the  suburbs,  which  rises  into  a 
hill,  where  are  villas  and  nice  residences — a distance  of  a mile  and 
a half  or  two  miles.  This  is  the  chief  thoroughfare  of  the  City,  and 
on  it  are  the  best  shops  and  stores.  It  runs  lengthwise  through  the 
heart  of  the  town,  parallel  to  the  Inlet  of  the  Sea  on  which  Dunedin 
stands,  nine  or  ten  miles  inland.  The  Railroad  Station  and  the 
Docks  and  two  or  three  streets  intervene  between  Princes  Street  and 


206 


LETTER  NO.  12. 


the  Inlet ; whilst,  on  the  other  hand,  and  not  far  off,  are  the  Hills, 
which,  like  a circle,  run  around  the  site.  The  Streets  already  named 
follow  the  contour  of  the  ground,  comparatively  level,  and  are  well 
macadamized,  the  sidewalks  paved  with  Asphalt.  On  Princes  Street, 
right  opposite  to  this  Hotel,  on  which  my  window  looks,  is  a hand- 
some stone  building  with  a clock  tower — the  Offices  of  the  Colonial 
Bank  of  New  Zealand — and  farther  out  the  Town  Hall,  a somewhat 
similar  structure.  The  Shops  and  Stores  are  mainly  built  of  stone, 
and  present  a substantial,  healthy  look. 

By  the  time  I returned,  the  hour  of  Lunch  had  arrived.  I intended 
to  have  strolled  out  again  in  the  afternoon ; but  the  threatened  rain 
came — a real  blessing  to  the  Country.  Last  night  it  showered  slightly. 
The  almost  unprecedented  drought — favorable,  you  have  seen,  to  the 
Tourists — has  excited  apprehension,  in  the  Country  for  their  grass, 
and  in  the  City  for  its  water  supply.  The  Dunedin  Papers  this 
morning  stated  that  there  was  only  sufficient  for  twelve  days’  use,  and 
urging  carefulness  upon  tlie  citizens.  But  this  afternoon  and  night 
it  rained  quite  steadily,  and  I hope  will  insure  relief.  Whilst  thus 
suffering  in  New  Zealand  for  water,  the  Cablegrams  tell  us  portions 
of  Australia  are  flooded,  accompanied  by  great  loss  of  property  and 
life.  This,  doubtless,  you  have  seen  through  the  same  medium  in 
our  own  Papers. 

I did  not  go  out  during  the  afternoon  and  evening. 

Same  City  and  Hotel, 

Friday,  March  14,  1890. 

The  Clouds  emptied  themselves  last  night.  To-day  has  been 
beautiful,  with  bright  Sky  and  fresh  atmosphere. 

I walked  along  the  Shore  and  among  the  business  houses  there — 
well-built  structures  of  brick  and  stone.  I talked  with  the  people, 
and  heard  great  complaints  of  want  of  business  and  the  dulness  and 
stagnation  of  the  times:  and  the  quiet  which  pi’evails  confirms  their 
story. 

Strolling  on  along  Great  King  Street,  parallel  to  Princes  and  George, 
the  one  I pedestrianized  yesterday,  and  nearer  to  the  water,  I came 
at  the  farther  end  and  towards  the  suburbs  to  the  Hospital,  a fine 
stone  building  occupying  large  and  improved  Grounds;  the  Museum, 
which  I found  at  the  hour  closed — I must  go  again ; and  near  by  it, 


DUNEDIN. 


207 


the  City  Public  Schools,  a large  brick  edifice.  It  was  the  time  of 
Recess,  and  the  children — Boys  and  Gii’ls — were  just  turned  out — 
the  coming  Race  to  fill  and  fructify  the  late  Mahori  land.  They 
were  a lively,  healthy  set — though  some  seemed  hardly  big  enough 
to  take  from  their  Mother’s  apron  strings ; and  they  made  the  air 
jubilant  about  their  Gymnastic  bars  and  swings  and  merry-go-rounds. 
Walking  on,  I visited  the  University,  a square  or  two  away,  one  or 
two  large  stone  and  brick  edifices,  solid  and  ornate.  The  Buildings 
were  in  good  repair ; the  upright  board  fence  enclosing  the  Grounds 
has  lost  many  of  its  planks,  and  looks  dilapidated.  An  old  Scotch- 
man passing,  I asked  him,  how  that  happened?  He  laughingly 
replied : “ Bad  Boys.  Fix  it  up  noo,  and  to-night  they’l  have  it 
doon  agin.”  I told  him  I feared  they  were  something  like  our  own 
young  Americans.  “Ai ! Ai!”  he  said,  “from  what  I have  heered.” 

When  I returned  by  the  School,  the  children  had  finished  their 
Reeess,  and  their  Teachers,  male  and  female,  were  mustering  them 
into  squads.  Boys  and  Girls,  according  to  their  sex  and  size,  and 
marching  them  in  again — a pretty  sight,  a clean  and  well-clad  lot. 
Among  the  Boys  there  was  flesh  and  bone  enough  to  make  strong  and 
burly  men ; among  the  girls,  more  of  complexion  than  of  beauty — I 
will  not  add — like  their  kindred  beyond  the  Sea,  lest  my  friends  from 
over  there  should  say  I am  not  complimentary  nor  a friend — “from 
the  remark  I make.” 

I went  to  the  Exhibition  in  the  afternoon  to  while  away  an  hour 
or  two,  and  was  in  the  Concert  Room,  listening  to  the  Orchestra 
again,  in  the  midst  of  a crowd,  when  my  Scotch  Friend  Rowuey 
spied  me  across  the  Hall,  and  came  forthwith  to  greet  me.  He  pi’o- 
posed  we  should  go  out  a few  miles  to  see  the  Nicholl’s  Creek  Falls. 
We  took  the  Horse  Tram  down  Princes  Street  to  near  its  terminus 
and  then  expected  to  have  found  a Coach ; but  their  being  none,  we 
walked,  Rowney  thinking  it  only  a mile  or  thereabouts.  It  turned 
out  two  or  three, — much  longer  and  farther  than  I would  have  walked 
for  a better  Falls.  We  met  the  Stages  coming  back  and  we  engaged 
one  to  return  for  us ; if  we  had  not,  we,  owing  to  the  late  hour,  would 
have  been  compelled  to  walk  the  whole  way  back — altogether  “ too 
much  for  our  whistle.”  You  know,  I think,  by  this  time,  all  walks 
in  the  Country  to  the  Traveller  on  an  extensive  Tour  are  a great 
waste  of  time,  and  energy,  and  labor;  the  Country  can  be  better  seen 
from  the  seat  of  a comfortable  Carriage : save  the  feet  and  force  to 


208 


LETTER  NO.  12. 


walk  the  Cities,  which  cannot  be  seen  on  wheels.  But  we  went  and 
saw.  The  Falls  a pretty  thing — no  more;  hid  away  up  a prettier 
Vale,  thick-clad  in  foliage — the  trees  arching  overhead.  But  better 
still  were  the  suburbs  of  Dunedin  and  the  adjacent  Country  along  the 
“ Waters  of  Leith,”  the  fine  stream  into  which  Nicholas  Creek  Falls 
flows,  that  well  repaid  us  for  the  jaunt,  with  their  natural  beauties 
of  Hill  and  Valley,  showing  everywhere  good  Scotch  enterprise  and 
thrift. 

The  Driver  fulfilled  his  promise,  and  met  us,  and  we  utilized  his 
Coach  back  to  the  Hotel,  Friend  Rowney  refusing  to  allow  me  to 
pay  for  the  Excursion,  regarding  it  as  his  treat.  He  will  probably 
go  to  Hobart  on  the  same  Steamer  with  me ; and  still  insists  upon 
my  paying  him  and  his  Sister  a visit  at  her  home  in  Port  Chalmers, 
nine  miles  above  the  Inlet  towards  the  Sea.  This  I can  hardly  do. 

At  Dinner  to-day.  Sir  Thomas  Mackelwraith  brought  Sir  Maurice 
O’Rourke,  Speaker  of  the  New  Zealand  Parliament,  and  introduced 
him  to  me ; and  invited  me  to  take  my  meals  with  him  and  Lady 
Mackelwraith  at  their  Table,  whilst  we  were  together  at  the  Hotel. 
And  my  young  American  Friend,  Freeman,  came  and  sat  with  me 
an  hour  or  two  and  talked.  His  comrade.  Parsons,  hearing  of  a 
brother’s  sudden  death,  has  gone  homeward. 

Same  City  and  Hotel, 

Saturday,  March  15,  1890. 

I paid  for  my  passage  to  Hobart. 

Then,  I walked  out  the  Eastern  end  of  Princes  Street  to  the  limits 
of  the  City  proper,  beyond  which  on  the  one  side  are  open  fields,  on 
the  other  the  Cemeteries,  located  upon  the  Hills  of  which  I have 
spoken  as  girdling  the  town.  I wandered  through  these  Ceme- 
teries ; all  adjoining,  divided  into  Sects — Hebrew,  Catholic,  Estab- 
lished Church,  and  General.  The  Hebrew  was  manifest  not  only 
in  the  Hebrew  Language  of  the  Inscriptions  upon  the  Tombstones, 
but  the  names  ranging  through  Patriarchs,  Prophets,  Kings,  and 
Commonalty — from  Abraham  to  Lazarus.  The  Catholic  had  many 
Irish  names — some  with,  some  without  the  O’.  But  there  are  two 
things  always  which  may  be  profitably  gathered  from  Burial  places, 
in  addition  to  the  Religious  and  moral  emotions,  which  Gray’s  Elegy 
has  epitomised  for  the  generations — the  wealth  of  a Community  and 


DUNEDIN. 


209 


the  duration  of  the  lives  of  its  people — its  material  prosperity  and  its 
healthfulness. 

In  walking  through  and  scanning  the  Monuments  and  their 
Records,  I was  not  impressed  with  the  volume  of  wealth  or  the 
length  of  life  there  manifested.  When  a Community  has  grown 
rich,  much  passes  at  the  death  of  its  members  into  Memorials  of  it 
over  their  Graves  ; this  seems  to  be  a kind  of  instinct.  But  there  is 
not  a single  handsome  Tombstone  here.  Dunedin  has  the  reputation 
of  being  an  uncommonly  healthy  spot;  the  Cemetery  is  quite  well 
filled — the  Record  showing  many  children,  youths,  and  middle  aged, 
scarce  any  who  reached  the  age  of  three-score.  This  is  by  no  means  a 
healthy  record.  Yet  the  town  manifests  much  expenditure  of  money 
in  the  public  and  private  buildings,  and  the  people  one  sees  upon  the 
streets  look  healthy  enough. 

Passing  through,  I climbed  the  fence  into  the  open  fields,  crowning 
the  lofty  hills.  The  view  from  the  Cemeteries  was  good  ; from  the 
higher  sites  uncommonly  extensive  and  beautiful.  The  Inlet,  at  the 
end  of  which  Dunedin  stands,  could  be  traced  windiug  among  the 
highlands  like  a Fjord ; the  town  lay  beneath  me,  compactly  built, 
on  the  low  ground,  now  and  then  in  clumps  of  trees,  creeping  South 
and  Westward  into  suburbs  along  the  flanks  of  the  elevations,  on  a 
spur  of  which  I stood.  Whilst  to  the  East,  another  quite  extensive 
suburb  lay,  beyond  which,  a mile  or  two  away,  the  Ocean  was  heav- 
ing in  the  sunlight,  and  painting  for  miles  the  shore  line  white  with 
its  surf — across  which,  forgetting  the  lovely  scene  around  me,  I sent 
to  you  my  thoughts,  swifter  than  an  Eagle  in  his  flight. 

I wandered  here  several  hours,  and  along  the  Belt  of  which  I have 
spoken,  where  stand  some  handsome  Villa-homes ; around  me  in  the 
open  fields  the  Buttercup  and  Dandelion  lifting  their  faces  to  the 
Sky,  reminding  me,  in  their  behavior,  of  what  I have  witnessed  on 
many  a scene  in  England. 

From  these  heights,  I descended  to  the  Hotel  on  a Cable  Tram. 

In  the  Evening,  just  opposite  in  the  open  Square  with  Music  and 
Torches,  the  Salvation  Army  held  forth.  This  strikes  me  as  one  of 
the  strangest  and  most  incongruous  phenomena  of  our  whirligig  Age 
— the  attempt  to  reach,  by  noise,  the  highest,  holiest  things,  whose 
habitation  is  the  Everlasting  Realm  of  Silence.  Not  to  be  contempt- 
uous, would  it  not  be  quite  as  congruous  to  hunt  ducks  with  a Brass 
Band — and  I trow  quite  as  successful,  too  ? 

14 


210 


LETTER  NO.  IS. 


Same  City  and  Hotel, 

Sxmday,  March  16,  1890. 

I wept  to  Church  this  morning  at  the  First  Presbyterian.  This 
Denomination  is  in  the  ascendant  in  Dunedin,  its  inhabitants  being 
in  the  main  the  offspring  of  the  Kirk,  The  Church  is  the  handsome 
one  of  which  I have  spoken,  built  of  stone,  in  Gothic  Style,  and  not 
far  from  the  Hotel,  standing  on  an  ornamented  Square — by  the  con- 
tour of  the  ground,  level  with  the  street  in  front  and  cut  away  in 
the  making  of  the  other  sides,  leaving  it  upon  a kind  of  truncated 
Acropolis — a situation  with  which  many  of  its  members  are  familiar 
in  their  Old  City  of  Edinburgh.  The  Officials  were  very  polite,  and 
showed  me  a seat,  and  gave  me  a Book  of  Psalms  and  Hymns,  that 
I might  join  in  the  singing.  The  Congregation  was  full  and  large, 
highly  respectable,  plain  Scotch-looking  people,  more  substantial  than 
pretty.  The  Sermon,  from  a comparatively  young  man,  had  not  the 
admirable  traits  I have  ascribed  to  the  audience : it  was  chaffy  and 
wheatless.  Sir  Thomas  and  his  Lady  went  to  the  Second  Presbyterian, 
and  when  I got  back,  I asked  him  what  he  had.  He  replied,  not 
much ; it  seemed  to  go  in  at  one  ear  and  out  at  the  other.  Mine  was 
too  light  even  to  get  beyond  the  Tympanum, 

After  Lunch,  I had  a good  time  with  myself,  I visited  the  Mu- 
seum, and  spent  a jileasant  hour  looking  at  its  contents  and  the 
people.  This  opening  of  a Sunday  afternoon  seems  to  be  a breaking 
away  from  the  Kirk.  From  my  observation  now  in  every  part  of 
the  World,  it  is  an  innovation  to  be  approved.  I have  never  in  any 
Country  seen  at  such  places  otherwise  than  good  behavior,  and  the 
works  of  Nature  and  Art,  there  preserved,  cannot  be  otherwise  than 
improving  and  elevating.  Many  cannot  get  there  on  any  other  day, 
and  if  not  there  on  that,  would  be,  doubtless,  at  some  worse  place. 
In  theory,  this  question  was  with  me  open  to  discussion ; my  extensive 
observation  has  settled  it,  to  my  mind,  beyond  controversy. 

In  general,  embracing  the  variety  of  its  contents,  this  Museum 
is  not  equal  to  that  at  Christchurch  : but  in  its  Natural  History 
Collection,  especially  relating  to  Australasia,  it  is  superior ; and  I 
was  gratified  to  find  many  Birds,  Animals,  and  Bejitiles,  which  I 
had  not  hitherto  seen. 


DUNEDIN. 


211 


Leaving  the  Museum,  I strolled  on  beyond  the  limits  of  the  town 
to  the  Botanical  Garden,  a young  affair,  well  located,  but  too  juvenile 
to  be  of  much  import  under  that  high-sounding  name ; not  equal  in 
any  way  to  the  one  in  its  rival,  Christchurch,  of  which  I told  you 
when  there.  Walking  along  the  crest  of  the  Hill  which  bounds  one 
of  its  sides,  I reached  the  New  Cemetery,  upon  its  summit.  The  one 
I visited  yesterday  is  older,  and  the  town  encroaching  on  it ; they,  I 
am  told,  only  allow  the  interment  of  the  members  of  families  whose 
ancestors  are  buried  there.  In  making  the  same  survey,  I found,  in 
the  lapse  of  years,  the  longevity  of  its  occupants  had  not  increased ; 
but  their  wealth  evidently  had.  There  were  many  more  and  hand- 
some Monuments — one  in  the  form  of  a Gothic  Chapel,  of  White 
Marble,  not,  I think,  admirable  in  taste,  but  in  size  and  cost,  very 
conspicuous. 

But,  better  than  all,  the  view  from  this  site  was  simply  superb — 
just  the  reverse  of  that  from  the  Old  Cemetery.  This  took  that  in, 
and  the  intervening  City,  between  the  Mountains  and  the  Inlet,  and 
sweeping  beyond  and  embracing  the  farther  suburb,  seeming  now  in 
the  distance  to  lie  upon  a narrow  strip  of  land,  between  water  and 
water,  and  bounded  by  the  boundless  Ocean.  Dunedin,  surely,  is 
blessed  in  its  location. 

Many  people  were  abroad  of  all  ages  and  sizes  in  their  Sunday 
clothes,  enjoying,  like  myself,  the  weather  and  the  scene.  Among 
them  were  a few  Chinese,  invariably  dressed  in  our  costume,  even  to 
the  hat,  which,  doubtless,  concealed  a coiled  up  Pigtail.  And  here  I 
will  remark  I have  seen  few  Chinamen  in  any  part  of  New  Zealand, 
in  either  Island,  in  town  or  country ; and  when  I have  met  them, 
they  have  been  always  in  European  dress. 

This  Evening  Sir  Thomas  introduced  me  to  a Mr.  Halliday,  from 
Australia,  a sturdy,  hearty  old  Scotchman,  who  gave  me  a cordial 
salutation  as  one  of  his  kin,  though  we  did  spell  our  names  with  the 
variation  of  one  letter — he  insisting  his  was  the  right  way,  mine  a 
corruption.  He  is  a Squatter,  as  they  call  it  here,  or  Sheep  and  Wool 
grower,  and  one  of  the  wealthiest  men  in  the  Colonies.  We  may  see 
more  of  each  other. 

I will  now  bring  this  long  letter  to  an  end.  I want  to  start  it 
forthwith  to  Auckland,  that  it  may  catch  on  the  24th  inst.  the 
monthly  Steamer  to  San  Francisco.  They  tell  me  I have  several 
days  more,  before  the  closing  mail  day,  for  that  Ship,  which  the  Post 


212 


LETTER  NO.  12. 


Office  always  regards  and  prepares  for.  But  I am  so  anxious  for 
you  to  receive  it,  that  I would  rather  it  should  rest  in  Auckland  than 
be  belated  in  reaching  there  by  an  accident  or  delay  upon  the  Route. 
You  can  by  possibility  only  hear  from  me  once  a month,  and  the 
missing  of  a Steamer  makes  it  two — a long  time. 

This  want  of  connection,  which  keeps  me  much  longer  here  than  I 
desire,  annoys  me,  and  you,  too,  I am  sure — thus  prolonging  my  stay 
from  home.  Since  the  first  of  December,  when  we  parted,  I have 
thus,  inland  and  by  sea,  lost  quite  one  month  of  time.  I trust  this 
will  not  attend  me  through.  On  Thursday  I leave  for  Tasmania. 

In  my  last  I told  Taylor  to  write  to  me  on  its  receipt  to  Cape 
Town,  Africa,  care  of  Bank  of  Africa,  and  at  the  same  time  write  to 
that  Bank  to  hold  my  Letters  till  my  arrival  there;  and  at  once  also 
notify  your  Mother  and  your  Uncle  Charles.  I here  notify  you  all 
again  to  the  same  effect,  lest  some  misfortune  may  have  overtaken 
that. 

I am  well-nigh  famished  for  news  from  you  all.  For  rarity  of 
communication,  this  Tour  beats  all  I have  ever  made.  I have  writ- 
ten you  much  and  in  many  Letters,  which  I trust,  however  laggingly, 
have  ultimately  reached  and  kept  you  with  me  in  my  goings.  By 
reason  of  my  movements,  and  the  far  distant  places  of  rendezvous  of 
your  Letters  I have  had  to  appoint,  I hear  more  rarely  from  you 
than  you  from  me.  I can  hear  nothing  now  till  I get  to  Melbourne. 

I trust  you  are  all  well  and  things  going  happily.  I am  sure  your 
Letters  will  be  gathered  to  greet  me  in  Australia,  and  give  me  pic- 
tures that  will  make  me  feel  at  home,  though  many  a mile  away. 

Kind  wishes  to  our  neighbors  and  my  friends.  I hope  Dr.  Fuller 
comes  often  to  see  your  Uncle  Taylor,  and  cheers  him  up  in  his  lone- 
liness. 

May  God  bless  you  every  one  ! 

With  tenderest  love  for  all, 

F. 

I mail  this  in  three  Envelopes. 


DUNEDIN. 


213 


[No.  13.] 


Dunedin,  New  Zealand,  Grand  Hotel, 

Monday,  March  17,  1890. 


My  Dear  Taylor, — 


I finished  No.  12  to  Mary  yesterday,  and  niailed  it  with  the  Post- 
master to-day  to  your  address  in  three  Envelopes.  I expressed  my 
desire  to  him  that  it  should  be  forwarded  at  once  to  Auckland,  that 
no  casualty  by  a later  Mail  might  prevent  its  transmission  thence  to 
you  by  the  next  Steamer.  I notice  in  the  papers  a Cablegram 
announcing  the  safe  arrival  of  the  Alameda  at  San  Francisco,  on  her 
return  from  these  regions.  Whilst  I write,  the  Letters  it  carried 
from  me  are  hasting  to  you  across  the  Continent.  May  they  liave  a 
safe  deliverance. 

Another  strange  meeting : When  I gave  the  Letters  to  the  Post- 
master to  stamp  for  me,  he  remarked  that  he  thought  we  had 
met  before.  He  remembered  coming  across  from  San  Francisco 
to  Honolulu  with  me  eight  years  ago,  and  my  presiding  at  a 
Moot-Court  gotten  up  by  the  Passengers,  and  making  a very 
fine  address,  which  was  regarded  as  the  event  of  the  voyage.  I 
thanked  him,  and  said  the  same  thing  was  alluded  to  by  my 
friends  the  other  day  in  Honolulu,  when  I stopped  there  on  my 
journey  here,  and  remarked  that  I supposed  myself  and  the  speech 
had  been  long  since  forgotten — and  then  upon  the  strange  con- 
tingency of  travel  that  he  and  I should  have  in  such  a casual 
way  been  thrown  together  again. 

I have  nothing  in  particular  to  tell  you  in  this  Day’s  proceedings. 
It  was  blustery,  and  the  settling  effects  of  the  rain  having  passed 
away,  the  dust  was  disagreeable,  and  I did  not  walk  in  the  morning. 
In  the  afternoon  I strolled  up  and  down  Princes  and  George  Streets, 
more  for  exercise  than  for  the  sights.  I have  Dunedin  under  my 
feet  pretty  well,  and  would  like  to  move  on. 

Sir  Thomas  and  Lady  Mackelwraith  and  Sir  Maurice  O’Rourke 
and  I have  much  talk  about  Australia,  New  Zealand,  England  and 
America,  and  I gather  knowledge,  as  is  my  wont. 


214 


LETTER  NO.  IS. 


Same  City  and  Hotel, 

Tuesday,  March  18,  1890. 

Again  I strolled  about  the  City  and  its  suburbs — not  that  I 
could  find  or  see  anything  new — simply  to  enjoy  again  the  many 
points  of  view,  and  consume  the  time.  I talked  with  Sir  Thomas 
and  Sir  Maurice  and  others  about  the  Politics  of  Australia  and 
New  Zealand.  The  latter  told  me,  as  the  former  had  already 
done,  with  regard  to  Australia,  that  New  Zealand  had  no  wish 
to  sever  from  the  Mother  Country ; was  satisfied  with  the  bond 
which  bound  them  together,  finding  no  cause  of  complaint — only 
cause  of  congratulation  for  a protection  both  gentle  and  cheap. 
In  my  travels  and  talks  with  the  people  everywhere,  these  views 
seem  to  prevail. 

I have  found  in  some  instances  among  the  young,  Agrarian  and 
Communistic  sentiments,  followers  of  Herr  Most  and  Henry  George, 
who,  having  the  ideas,  like  many  a so-called  Evolutionist,  could  rattle 
off  commonplaces  without  being  able  to  give  any  reason  for  the  faith 
that  was  in  them.  New  Zealand  is  more  taken  up  with  her  economic 
affairs  than  her  Political.  The  hard  times  of  which  they  complain 
everywhere  is  more  discussed,  though  too  often,  here  and  elsewhere, 
the  ignorant  hasten  to  find  a solution  of  these  troubles  in  Political 
subterfuges. 

In  the  afternoon  my  new  Friend,  Mr.  Halliday,  to  whom,  you 
remember.  Sir  Thomas  Mackelwraith  introduced  me,  and  I took  a 
stroll.  He  is  a sturdy  old  Scotchman,  who  has  thriven  greatly,  and 
now  owns  a Station  of  two  hundred  thousand  acres,  on  which  he  runs 
two  hundred  thousand  sheep.  Australia  beats  the  world  in  the 
ownership  of  this  harmless,  valuable  creature,  claiming  to  care  for, 
I believe,  one  hundred  millions  of  them.  Mr.  Halliday  insists  I 
must  visit  his  Station.  Sir  Thomas  makes  the  same  insistance  as  to 
his  Country  Home,  and  others  to  whom  I have  been  introduced. 
Should  I break  my  rule  with  regard  to  accepting  hospitalities,  you 
would  soon  change  your  views  concerning  its  propriety,  in  which 
you  and  I have  always  differed ; for  to  accept  would  consume 
mouths  of  time  and  almost  make  me  a sojourner  in  Foreign  Lands. 
You  had  better  forthwith  come  to  my  way  of  thinking. 


DUNEDIN. 


215 


Same  City  and  Hotel, 

Wednesday,  March  19,  1890. 

I took  a Carriage  and  invited  Mr.  Halliday  and  young  Freeman 
to  a drive,  which  they  accepted.  I,  also,  invited  Sir  Thomas  Mackel- 
wraith,  but  he  had  engagements  and  could  not  go.  Sir  Maurice 
O’Rourke  has  been  sick  for  a day  or  two. 

We  drove  to  Ocean  Beach,  of  which  I have  hitherto  spoken,  when 
seen  from  one  of  the  elevations.  A large  new  Building  is  standing 
near  the  shore,  intended  for  a Hotel,  but  not  yet  thus  utilized.  The 
Governor  of  this  Colony  and  his  family  occupied  it  last  Summer,  the 
Driver  said.  It  now  looks  empty  and  deserted. 

Driving  thence  a half  mile  or  thereabouts  we  came  to  a more 
interesting  spot,  called  Sinclair,  which  has  been  a Bathing  place  for 
some  time,  and  admirably  fitted  up  for  the  purpose.  It  fronts  the 
open  Ocean,  and  the  waves  to-day  were  coming  grandly  in  with  long 
breakers  that  would  have  delighted  the  heart  of  a Kanaka  Surf- 
Rider.  At  a place  along  the  Shore,  they  have,  with  the  natural 
rocks  and  concrete,  enclosed  a Pool  right  on  the  Beach,  perfectly  safe, 
yet  open  to  the  enjoyment  of  the  waves — the  racers  bounding  land- 
ward, and  giving  the  bathers,  over  the  natural  or  artificial  river,  the 
full  benefit  of  their  roll.  The  best  arrangement  for  Sea-bathing  I 
know  anywhere. 

The  day  again  was  beautiful,  and  we  enjoyed  greatly  our  drive. 

On  our  return,  Mr.  Halliday  went  with  me  to  the  Steamship 
Company’s  Office  to  secure  my  Berth.  The  Steamer  Mararoa  had 
arrived  and  now  the  matter  could  be  definitely  fixed — the  Agent  told 
us  the  crowd  would  be  great,  and  probably  some  would  be  left  in 
Dunedin  for  want  of  room  upon  the  Steamer.  Happily  my  precau- 
tion of  taking  time  by  the  forelock  has  saved  me  from  this  misfortune. 
The  Vessel  is  one  of  the  best,  I am  told,  of  the  Line. 

During  the  day,  I made  inquiry  of  Cook  & Sons,  Tourist  Agents, 
whose  Office  is  in  the  Hotel,  about  my  Voyage  from  Australia  to  the 
Cape  Colonies,  concerning  which  there  is  some  complication,  there 
being  no  regular  Steam  service  direct.  It  can  only  be  done  by  a 
combination  of  Lines  and  a zigzag  Route.  When  I reach  Melbourne 
I can  obtain  more  accurate  information  and  will  advise  you.  It 
would  be  bad  if  I should  not  be  able  to  accomplish  my  object,  with- 


216 


LETTER  NO.  13. 


out  lingering  too  long  in  the  Tropics,  or  returning  home  through 
San  Francisco ; or  from  New  Zealand  by  Steamer  rounding  Cape 
Horn  to  England  and  thence  Home.  For  after  that  long  circuit  I 
would  not  go  to  Cape  Town ; it  would  make  my  absence  from  you 
too  prolonged.  I saw  a Frenchman,  just  arrived,  who  offered  to  give 
me  all  needed  information;  but  I found  him  an  Agent  of  the  French 
Line,  and,  also,  pretty  full — and  too  much  interested  and  too  boozy, 
and  hence  altogether  too  voluble,  to  give  me  much  satisfactory  infor- 
mation. But  1 will  determine  my  Route,  further  on.  Probably  I will 
meet  my  American  Friends,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Nead,  again,  and  we  may 
make  up  our  mind  to  travel  from  Australia  together. 

I spent  a while  with  Sir  Thomas  and  Lady  Mackelwraith  in  their 
Room  this  Evening.  They  leave  by  Rail  in  the  morning  for  Bluff,, 
on  the  South  Coast — where  the  Steamer  will  pick  them  up — she 
being  a bad  Sailor  and  wishing  to  avoid  the  Sea  to  the  extent  of  her 
ability. 

This,  with  having  my  Trunk  and  Deck  Chair  righted  up  for  a 
fresh  start,  consumed  the  time  till  the  hour  for  Bed — which  I greeted 
in  my  accustomed  cordial  manner. 

Not  a few  acquaintances,  whom  I casually  made  in  my  travels  over 
the  Islands,  have  gathered  here  to  take  the  Mararoa  to-morrow. 

Steamship  Maraeoa, 

En  Route  from  Dunedin  to  Bluff, 

Thursday,  March  20,  1890. 

This  morning  I was  early  out  in  Dunedin  and  found  my  Chair 
and  Trunk  righted  up  for  another  chain  of  Travel.  Though  the 
Steamer  did  not  put  out  till  half  past  three  o’clock  in  the  afternoon, 
I breakfasted  and  had  my  Baggage  sent  to  the  Landing,  that  I might 
have  it  put  in  my  Cabin  and  be  ready  at  the  hour.  I had  rather  be 
in  advance  than  of  the  crowd ; I can,  then,  quietly  walk  the  Deck 
and  see  them  come. 

And  the  crowd  was  great.  I found  myself  one  of  four  in  the 
Cabin  assigned ; but  it  is  large  and  roomy  and  well  ventilated,  and 
I think  things  will  be  comfortable  enough.  My  acquaintances  are 
quite  numerous,  even  should  I make  no  more,  which  is  hardly  prob- 
able. The  Ship  is  a fine  one  of  three  thousand  tons,  handsomely 
finished  and  appointed,  equal  in  every  way  to  her  reputation,  and 


DUNEDIN  TO  BLUFF. 


217 


looking  able  and  willing  to  land  me  safely  in  Tasmania,  whither  I 
am  bound. 

Mr.  Rowney  came  aboard  to  go  to  Melbourne,  and  his  Sister,  Mrs. 
Ritchie,  came  with  him,  to  see  him  ofP,  and  looked  me  up  to  bid  me 
Good  Bye  ! and  express  their  regrets  at  my  not  paying  them  the 
visit  at  Port  Chalmers,  before  leaving  New  Zealand.  Mr.  Halliday 
and  his  two  Daughters  came — fine  looking  young  Ladies ; a Mr. 
Rutherford,  another  Scotchman,  now  a Citizen  of  these  Islands — 
recently  moved  from  Australia,  whither  he  and  Mr.  Halliday  came 
more  than  thirty  years  ago,  among  the  old  Colonists ; a Mr.  Bethune, 
from  old  Scotia,  too,  now  living  in  Melbourne,  where  he  is  bound, 
introduced  himself  to  me — telling  me  he  had  lived  in  Minneapolis 
for  some  years,  and  overworked  himself  there,  coming  to  Australia 
for  the  benefit  of  his  health.  We  have  had  much  pleasant  talk,  and 
will  have  more. 

My  neighbor  at  the  Table  is  a Mr.  Gibson,  a cultivated,  gentle- 
manly Scotchman,  from  Edinburgh  ; he  tells  me  he  is  now  the  City 
Clerk  of  Dunedin,  and  he  and  his  wife  are  on  their  way  to  their 
old  home — both  anticipating  a chai’ming  time  after  many  years  of 
absence.  He  is  full  of  incident,  having  been  in  his  young  days  in 
the  Blackwood  Publishing  House,  and  met  many  of  the  men  who 
made  that  Magazine  famous.  He  has  seen  and  heard  Christopher 
North,  De  Quincey,  Jeffrey,  Wordsworth,  Southey,  and  once  wit- 
nessed a discussion  between  the  first  two — the  little  mummyfied  De 
Quincey  and  the  glorious  Christopher  in  the  pride  of  his  manly 
strength  and  beauty,  and  gave  me  a graphic  picture  of  the  contrast, 
notwithstanding  this  contrast,  rendered  equal  by  their  intellectual 
genius  and  resources.  I hope  we  may  have  many  more  pleasant 
talks  upon  similar  subjects ; which  hope  he  was,  also,  complimentary 
enough  to  express  to  me. 

We  got  off  at  the  appointed  hour ; the  freight  and  passengers, 
then  all  aboard,  the  Cables  were  lifted,  and  we  steamed  out  toward 
the  Ocean.  It  was  quite  a gay  sight  for  Dunedin — the  Decks  were 
thronged  with  passengers  and  the  Landing  equally  thronged  with 
their  friends  to  speed  them  on  their  journey,  and  the  waving  of 
handkerchiefs  and  flowers  made  quite  a brilliant  scene.  Receding,  the 
City  showed  well,  along  the  Shore  and  upon  the  heights,  with  which, 
by  this  time,  we  are  both  familiar.  The  Shores  of  the  Inlet  are  in 
many  places  well  cultivated  and  ornamented  with  excellent  houses. 


218 


LETTER  NO.  13. 


We  passed  Port  Chalmers,  without  stopping — looking  well  in  retro- 
spective view,  and  in  an  hour  or  two  were  out  upon  the  Broad 
Waters,  bound  for  Bluff,  upon  the  Southern  Coast — distant  from 
Dunedin  one  hundred  and  thirteen  miles. 

The  Sea  and  air  were  calm,  and  the  Ship  went  without  a tremor ; 
and  soon  after  dark  I was  in  my  cot  and  fast  asleep. 

At  Bluff,  New  Zealand, 

And  on  the  Ocean,  between  Bluff  and  Hobart, 

Friday,  March  21,  1890. 

I was  on  Deck  by  six  o’clock  to  see  our  coming  into  Bluff.  I 
went  to  bed  before  my  Cabin  comrades  and  had  a good  night’s  rest, 
and  rose  before  any  of  them,  to  make  room.  One  is  a Londoner,  by 
the  name  of  Harding;  another  a small  Britisher,  by  the  name  of 
Smyth ; the  third  name  I have  not  heard.  They  are  quiet,  well- 
ordered  men,  and  do  not  in  any  manner  obstruct  my  fine  sleeping 
qualities ; and  happier  still,  don’t  get  sea-sick. 

By  half-past  six  we  are  tied  up  at  Bluff,  a small  but  well-built 
town,  of  from  five  hundred  to  a thousand  people.  My  impression  is, 
that  as  Hammerfest,  Norway,  is  the  farthest  North  of  any  town  in 
the  World,  Bluff  is  the  farthest  South.  I have  told  you  of  dreary 
Hammerfest ; Bluff  does  not  compare  with  it  in  dreariness — on  the 
contrary,  is  quite  a bright  looking  place,  to  which  the  day  helped 
much  to  contribute.  Immediately  on  our  tying  up,  Oystermen  came 
and  exposed  their  wares  for  sale  upon  the  Landing — good-looking 
and  fat  Oysters  tliey  were,  too.  But  whilst  well-seeming,  they  are 
tough,  and  not  equal  to  ours  in  flavor, — indeed,  where  are  any  in 
the  World  their  equal?  They  are  gathered  in  the  South,  or  Stewart 
Island,  waters,  and  in  the  Straits  between  it  and  the  Middle. 

Some  of  us  had  an  early  Breakfast,  and  learning  that  the  Steamer 
would  not  leave  till  half-past  three  p.  m.,  we  took  the  train  and  ran 
up  to  Invercargill — seventeen  miles  distant.  The  intervening  Country 
is  not  much  to  see — Tussock,  Bush,  and  Manuka  or  Tea  Plant,  all 
of  which  you  know  well  by  this  time.  Most  of  the  land  is  as  yet 
uncultivated.  Mr.  Angus  Robertson  and  his  wife  and  Dr.  and  Mrs. 
Lempriere,  travelling  with  them,  and  Mr.  Campbell  and  Mr.  Row- 
ney  went  with  me.  I walked  over  Invercargill  on  my  arrival — a 
well-built  town  of  several  thousand  people,  well  supplied  with  Hotels 


BLUFF  TO  HOBART— NEW  ZEALAND. 


219 


and  Banks — Alas ! like  all  New  Zealand  with  the  latter,  it  strikes 
me,  too  well  supplied.  From  my  observation  over  the  Islands,  these 
Banks  are  draining  the  life-blood  of  the  Colony.  It  is  out  of  the 
question,  that  a farming  and  grazing  Community  can  stand  the  rate 
of  interest  charged — from  six  to  ten  and  twelve  per  cent — without 
ultimate  ruin.  And  I find,  upon  inquiry,  this  is  one  of  the  troubles 
now  pressing  upon  the  farmer  and  sheep  man ; their  lands  are  under 
Mortgage  to  these  corporations,  and  in  effect,  they  own  New  Zea- 
land. 

I met  Sir  Thomas  Mackelwraith  on  the  Street,  and  he  and  Lady 
M.  will,  he  said,  join  the  Steamer  this  afternoon. 

We  returned  at  mid-day,  in  good  time,  and  at  the  appointed  hour 
steamed  out  on  our  voyage  to  Hobart,  the  Capital  of  Tasmania.  The 
weather  changed  somewhat,  and  gave  promise  of  coming  roughness. 
I should  not  be  surprised  to-morrow  if  the  storm  was  abroad.  We 
are  in  Latitudes  where  adverse  elements  are  not  far  apart,  and  can 
easily  conjoin  their  forces  and  stir  up  a muss. 

After  leaving  Bluff,  along  the  South,  across  Foveaux  Straits, 
stretched  a long  line  of  Stewart  Island,  the  small  one  of  the  New 
Zealand  Group ; but  not  near  enough  to  distinguish  anything  upon 
its  shores. 


Now,  that  I have  done  my  travels  in  New  Zealand, — What  of  it  ? 

These  Islands  have  been  both  over  and  under  written.  The  Tour- 
ist, and  Steamer,  and  Railway  Agents  have  drawn  it  in  colors, 
quite  too  extravagant — describing  it  as  “ an  Eden  ” ; “ an  Earthly 
Paradise”;  ‘‘a  precious  stone  set  in  the  Silver  Sea,”  and  other  such 
high-sounding  appellations  : — these  terms  in  his  mind,  the  traveller 
disappointed,  has  gone  to  the  other  extreme,  and  greatly  underrated 
its  beauties  and  resources. 

You  have  been  with  me  quite  thoroughly  over  the  two  Islands, 
which  may  be  said  to  embrace  New  Zealand : for  the  small  appendant 
called  Stewart  Island  is  of  but  little  import  economically,  and  of 
none  to  the  general  traveller.  Each  day  gave  you  the  story  of  my 
experience  and  I will  not  repeat.  I may  be  said  to  have  seen  every- 
thing characteristic,  save  the  Sounds  on  the  Southwest  Coast,  which 
are  of  scenic  interest,  like  the  Fjords  of  Norway,  and  by  many 
regarded  as  their  equal,  though  in  a different  phase  of  the  Ailsthetic : 


220 


LETTER  NO.  13. 


those  grander  in  their,  in  the  main,  bleak  and  rugged  import ; these 
more  beautiful  in  the  foliage  with  which  they  are  clothed.  The 
Excursions — two  or  three  in  number  annually — had  been  made  before 
my  arrival  in  the  Islands,  and  no  mode  of  communication  remained 
to  me  during  this  Season. 

Recalling  the  incidents  of  my  travel,  you  will  agree  with  me,  that 
no  equal  area  of  the  Earth,  Continental  or  Insular,  is  in  possession 
of  such  a variety  of  Natural  Phenomena,  and  of  such  large  import. 
Some  Countries  present  one  or  more : some,  others  of  these  phenomena, 
but  no  one  presents  them  all,  save  New  Zealand.  The  North  Island, 
interesting  with  its  Volcanic  agencies  and  forces — the  Middle  with  its 
Glacial;  and  travelling  through  them  from  North  to  South,  you  have 
Hot  Lakes  and  Geysers  and  Gorges,  and  Mountain  Lakes,  and  Snow- 
Clad  summits  with  Glaciers  of  world-renowned  import,  and  Fiords 
rivalling  the  finest  anywhere  in  scenic  interest.  This  is  a wonderful 
range  of  extraordinary  things,  and  without  a rival  in  the  World. 
The  Country  is  young,  and  their  accessibility  has  not  been  rendered 
easy  to  the  traveller,  as  in  Norway  and  Switzerland  and  other  regions, 
blessed  with  their  possession.  These  facilities  of  locomotion  will 
come  in  time,  with  the  advent  of  population  and  wealth. 

These  last  words  suggest  the  other  question  of  interest  to  New 
Zealand — Will  that  population  and  consequent  wealth  ever  come? 
Do  her  resources  justify  the  hope?  The  average  traveller  having 
read  the  extravagancies  to  which  I have  referred,  is  disappointed,  and 
under  reaction,  does  injustice  to  her  claims.  He  sees  around  him 
Mountains,  bleak  and  barren,  often  without  the  sign  of  vegetation ; 
Plains,  and  Mesas,  and  Valleys,  where  no  natural  tree  is  gx’owing, 
covered  by  coarse  Tussock,  or  bunch  grass,  looking  yellow  and  sun- 
blasted,  or  frost-bitten,  or  with  Tea  plant  or  Fern  and  Scrub,  and 
not  I’egarding  such  appearances  as  indicative  of  Eden  or  an  Earthly 
Paradise  of  any  sort,  pronounces  tlie  whole  thing  a fraud,  and  New 
Zealand  an  irredeemable  desert.  This  is  an  extravagance  quite  equal 
to  that  which  causes  it.  Consequently,  many  come  here  to  live, 
induced  by  the  Boomers,  and  disappointed,  speedily  go  away ; the 
Islands  have  in  the  last  few  years,  instead  of  increasing,  lost  one 
hundred  thousand  people — one-seventh  of  their  population — proving 
what  we  have  full  experience  of  in  our  own  Country — that  the 
reaction  from  a Boom  is  worse  than  the  original  inactivity.  In 
addition,  whilst  much  money  has  been  spent  in  making  Roads  and 


NEW  ZEALAND. 


221 


opening  up  the  Couutiy,  until  now  great  complaints  are  heard  of  the 
enormous  debt  and  its  heavy  burdens,  yet  large  areas  remain,  too  far 
from  market  to  make  their  agricultural  products  available  in  the 
markets  of  the  World,  with  other  Countries  of  easier  access  in  com- 
petition. 

Its  pastoral  resources  are  undisputed,  and  the  Ranges  or  Runs  for 
Sheep  are  equal  in  number  to  from  fifteen  to  twenty  millions.  This 
is  the  Country  which,  with  its  yellow  Tussock  and  treeless  Mountains, 
leaves  such  a sense  of  desolation  on  the  mind  of  the  stranger.  But  a 
more  abundantly  and  beautifully  watered  domain  than  some  of  these 
Reaches  I never  saw.  You  remember  how  the  clear,  limped  streams 
were,  whilst  we  travelled  for  hours  and  miles,  ever  racing  across  our 
pathway.  And  that  the  land  would  produce,  was  evidenced  by  the 
Station  or  Squatter  Oases,  which  dotted  everywhere  many  of  the  far- 
reaching  Landscapes. 

Nor  were  we  left  to  this  by  inference  alone.  You  will  recall,  also, 
the  thousands  of  magnificent  acres  of  wheat  and  oats  and  potatoes, 
equal  to  the  very  best  our  best  soils  can  produce,  that  met  us  in 
different  sections.  The  natural  growth,  without  irrigation,  present- 
ing the  soundest  of  all  proofs,  that  hundreds  of  thousands  of  other 
acres  of  similar  character  could  be  reduced  to  the  same  profitable 
cultivation.  Of  course,  the  rugged  mountains  of  bare  rock,  and  the 
beds  of  shingle  and  boulders  left  in  ages  gone  by  the  Glacier  in  its 
struggle  for  life,  must  ever  belong  to  the  Realm  of  the  Aesthetic 
rather  than  the  productive ; but  enough  of  that  which  belongs  to  the 
latter  remains,  to  make  in  time  New  Zealand  a wealthy  Country. 

But  that  time,  from  their  inaccessibility,  is  not  now;  rather,  I 
think,  will  be  for  many  generations  deferred.  Virgin  soils  in  other 
parts  of  the  World,  more  convenient,  will  be  used  before  these  Lands 
of  the  Antipodes  will  come  actively  into  play. 

When  that  time  comes,  then,  also,  will  come  the  day  for  the  beati- 
fication of  its  Natural  wonders.  They  will  be  opened  up  and  become 
accessible  to  the  easy-going  traveller,  and  Mount  Cook,  with  its 
Glaciers,  will  be  as  conveniently  reached  as  the  Matterhorn  and  Kin- 
chinjunga ; the  Hot  Lakes  and  their  accompaniments,  the  Sounds  and 
their  varied  beauties,  and  the  Mountain  Lakes  of  the  Middle  Island, 
will  be  ornamented  with  culture  and  wealth,  and  thronged  by  the 
stranger  like  the  Yellowstone,  Norway,  and  Switzerland. 


222 


LETTER  NO.  13. 


But  whilst  in  talking  to  New  Zealanders  of  their  Country,  I am 
thus  liberal  in  my  expressions  of  admiration  for  its  beauties  and 
resources,  I am,  also,  honest  enough  to  tell  them  that  their  full 
appreciation  and  development  are  not  yet.  This  generation,  and 
probably  many  more,  how  many,  I cannot  say,  will  have  to  learn 
that  hard  lesson — to  labor  and  to  wait.  It  has,  with  a species  of 
extravagance,  been  called  the  Great  Britain  of  the  Antipodes.  It 
has  natural  phenomena  far  surpassing  Great  Britain  in  volume  and 
variety;  but  how  many  centuries  of  industry  have  been  spent  in 
clothing  the  Mother  Country  in  vestments,  which  make  her  now  the 
most  beautiful  land  upon  the  Earth  ? 

The  same  number  will  not  have  to  come  and  go  before  New  Zea- 
land will  put  on  her  artificial  garments  of  adornment ; for  her,  the 
forces  will  appear,  which  have  made  the  whole  World  a Family  of 
Nations,  and  expedite  her  development.  A little  while  ago,  she  was 
the  Land  of  the  Cannibal  and  the  bugbear  of  missionaries  and  chil- 
dren. Now,  the  fierce,  manly  Mahori  is  nearly  gone — Mtj  per  cent 
of  them  in  the  last  twenty  years.  I have  seen  scarce  any  in  the  South 
Island  ; a half  century  more,  and  none  will  be  left  in  either,  to  tell 
the  story  of  their  fate  before  the  remorseless  march  of  the  Anglo- 
Saxon.  Yet,  in  God’s  economy,  it  is  the  survival  of  the  fittest ; and 
no  one  who  desires  the  best  interests  of  the  Human  Family,  will  ever 
be  willing  to  see  the  fulfilment  of  the  forecast,  that  some  traveller 
hence  “may  take  his  stand  upon  a broken  Arch  of  London  Bridge 
to  sketch  the  ruins  of  St.  Paul ; ” but,  rather,  that  the  Bridge  and 
Temple  may  both  endure,  emblems  of  a Civilization  and  a Power, 
which,  uniting  with  our  own  Colossus,  shall  make  our  English 
Tongue  the  spoken  language  of  the  World. 

In  course  of  time.  New  Zealand,  putting  about  her  Natural  glories 
the  adornments  of  Culture  and  Art,  will,  without  exaggeration,  be  the 
Great  Britain  of  the  South,  and,  not  sending  a traveller  to  sketch  any 
ruin  of  the  Great  Britain  of  the  North,  will  rather  join  her  to  swell 
the  Anglo-Saxon  terrestrial  triumph.  The  Boomer’s  high-sounding 
words  will  no  longer,  then,  be  fulsome ; but  all  will  admit  New  Zea- 
land to  be  deserving  of  their  praise ; the  prodigality  of  her  gifts  and 
her  resources  no  one  will  deny ; sure  enough, 

“A  Fortress  built  by  Nature  for  herself, 

A Precious  Stone,  set  in  the  Silver  Sea.” 


PACIFIC  OCEAN— BLUFF  TO  HOBART. 


223 


On  Ocean,  between  Bluff  and  Hobaet, 

Saturday,  March  22,  1890. 

My  anticipations  have  been  realized.  The  day  has  been  very 
rough.  The  Sea  Monster  came,  as  usual  with  the  roughness,  and 
like  Samson  with  his  Jaw  Bone,  scattered  his  victims  around  thick 
as  Philistines.  Few  have  appeared  at  Table,  but  in  the  crowded 
condition  of  the  Steamer  lay  wounded  hither  and  thither  about  the 
Saloons  and  Decks.  Happily,  my  Cabin  comrades  are  all  good 
sailoi’s,  and  we  are  comfortable. 

But  my  other  Friends  are  weak  in  such  adversity,  and  every  one 
of  them  has  fallen  in  the  fray ; even  my  interesting  table  companion 
from  Edinburgh  has  fled  from  the  fleld,  and  is  too  feeble  to  occupy 
his  seat.  I hope  he  will  come  out  again  before  we  part  at  Hobart, 
and  renew  our  interesting  talk. 

But  whilst  I have  lost  these,  the  Albatross  has  come  in  numbers, 
and  enlivened  the  scene  from  the  Deck.  You  remember,  I saw,  I 
think,  only  two  of  them  in  my  passage  to  and  through  Magellan ; 
and  inferred  they  preferred  the  more  boisterous  region  of  the  Horn. 
Now  I am  gratified.  They  are  after  and  about  the  Steamer  in  scores, 
describing  circles  in  the  air,  upon  far-reaching,  untiring  wing — a 
splendid  spectacle.  It  is  a charm  to  watch  them — now  soaring,  with- 
out a tremor,  in  the  teeth  of  the  Gale,  against  the  boisterous  air — 
now  dipping  their  pen  feathers  in  the  Sea — rejoicing  in  their  strength 
and  skill.  They  are  of  various  colors — some  nearly  white — and 
when  a big  one  speeds  by  upon  or  against  the  wind,  it  seems  to  fling 
defiance  at  the  Steamer  in  its  lagging,  struggling  gait.  The  com- 
paratively commonplace  Gull  has  gone ; the  only  associate  I observe 
in  the  brilliant  corps,  is  the  Cape  Pigeon — a much  smaller,  but  yet 
a clean-cut,  graceful  Bird  upon  the  wing.  But  there  ever  seems  to 
be  harmony  among  these  joint  denizens  of  Sea  and  air.  They  do  not 
appear  to  quarrel  or  feed  upon  each  other,  like  the  winged  inhabitants 
of  the  Land ; but  with  the  universal  brotherhood  of  Uncle  Toby  and 
the  Fly,  esteem  “the  World  big  enough  for  both  thee  and  me,”  and 
in  their  ceaseless  circuits,  cross  and  recross  each  other’s  orbits  in  the 
Sky  in  friendliest  mood. 


224 


LETTER  NO.  13. 


On  Same  Sea  and  Ship, 

Sunday,  3Iarch  23,  1890. 

Sunday  has  come  and  gone  without  special  observance  on  the  Ship. 
The  weather  promised  fairer  yesterday  afternoon : but  gathered  up 
and  behaved  no  better  to-day — shaky  and  disagreeable — keeping  the 
passengers  scattered  and  in  disorder.  I continued  well.  What  a 
blessing  to  me,  whilst  on  these  vast  circuits,  the  Sea  and  I are  ever 
in  accord  ! 

My  Friend  Mr.  Gibson  has  righted  up  and  came  out  again,  and 
our  meals  are  seasoned  with  constant  talk  of  Scotland  and  her  heroes. 
His  extensive  reading  and  experience  make  him  full  of  incident,  and 
my  own  knowledge  stimulated,  comes  out  and  joins  him,  and  together 
we  traverse  Old  Scotland’s  scenes  of  Flood  and  Field,  and  the  charm- 
ing ranges  of  her  Literature.  Many,  whom  I know  only  in  their 
Books,  he  knew  in  flesh  and  blood,  and  vitalizes  my  memory  with 
personal  stories  of  their  lives. 

My  Room-mate,  Mr.  Smyth,  a Londoner,  and  I,  with  Map  in 
hand,  study  my  Route  to  Southern  Africa,  where  he  has  been ; whilst 
I tell  him  my  experience  and  observation  in  South  America,  where 
he  wants  to  go.  And  another  Gentleman,  Mr.  Crawford,  hearing  of 
my  proposed  visit,  comes  to  introduce  himself,  that  he  may  tell  me 
about  Natal,  where  he  has  resided  many  years.  And  thus  of  others, 
who  on  ray  travels  seem  ever  ready  to  speed  my  movements  and  add 
to  the  pleasure  of  my  Tours. 

But  I have  not  time  to  tell  of  my  various  acquaintances  and 
talks : they  would  fill  a book  and  weary  you,  even  was  the  time 
abundant.  In  the  afternoon,  I sat  on  Deck  and  watched  the  Sun 
a-going  down — and  the  Royal  Albatross,  performing  his  equally  royal 
evolutions — and  called  up  the  sorry  fate  of  that  Ancient  Mariner  who 
with  his  bow  called  down  upon  his  hapless  head,  a vengeance  now 
known  everywhere. 

But  whilst  I thus  admire  the  Albatross,  I do  not  think  in  some 
respects  he  rivals  the  Frigate  Bii’d,  of  which  I have  often  told  you 
in  Rio  and  the  West  Indies.  The  latter,  though  not  of  such  reach 
of  wing,  is  of  cleaner  cut,  of  loftier  flight,  and  swifter  speed ; he 
strikes  me,  in  his  movements,  as  the  most  brilliant  inhabitant  of  the 
air — belonging  either  to  Land  or  Sea. 


HOBART. 


225 


The  weather  towards  the  Evening  lulls,  and  I trust  to-morrow  we 
will  run  into  Hobart  with  a calm  Ocean,  and  a clear  Sky. 

On  the  Same  Sea, 

AND  AT  Hobart,  Tasmania,  Hadley’s  Hotel, 

Monday,  3Iarch  24,  1890. 

Nearing  Land,  the  Sea  calmed  down,  and  quite  early,  Tasmania 
came  distantly  in  sight.  The  Clouds  dispersed,  and  advancing. 
Storm  Bay  opened  its  wide  arms  to  receive  us  into  quiet  waters,  in 
a manner  quite  contradictory  to  its  name.  The  land  on  either  side 
rose  into  Mountains  from  the  Shore,  covered  with  vegetation,  save 
here  and  there  a Villa  or  a Farmstead,  ditferent  from  the  many  bare 
Mountains  of  which  I wrote  you  in  New  Zealand. 

The  Bay  narrowed  as  we  progressed;  after  a while  Mount  Nelson, 
one  thousand  feet  or  more  in  height,  rose,  crowned  with  a Flag  Statf 
and  Signal  Station,  and  beyond  it.  Mount  Wellington,  more  than 
four  thousand  feet,  with  its  bulky  top  of  Basaltic  Pillars  like  pipes  of 
organs — an  imposing  figure  in  the  Landscape;  between  them,  Hobart 
lay,  well  built  and  stately  upon  its  rising  site,  the  Derwent  River,  with 
broad  sweep,  coming  in  upon  her  left.  We  came  to  Hobart  about  two 
o’clock  p.  m.,  distant  from  Bluff,  nine  hundred  and  twenty  miles. 

We  were  soon  lauded  at  the  Wharf,  and  the  passengers  began  to 
scatter.  This  is  not  the  terminus  of  the  Steamer’s  run  ; she  goes  on 
to  Melbourne  to-morrow,  and  my  friends  go  on  with  her.  I stay 
and  make  my  way  across  the  Island  by  rail,  that  I may  see  Tasmania 
and  this,  her  Capital.  But  many  got  off  to  spend  the  night  in  town 
and  have  the  comfort  of  a respite  from  the  Steamer’s  crowd — among 
them.  Sir  Thomas  and  Lady  Mackelwraith,  Mr.  Halliday  and  his 
Daughters,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Robertson  and  their  friends.  Dr.  and  Mrs. 
Lempriere,  and  Mr.  Rutherford. 

Mr.  Halliday  went  ahead  and  engaged  a Room  for  me  at  this 
Hotel,  which,  like  those  I told  you  of  in  New  Zealand,  has  been 
crowded  with  people  flying  the  heat  of  Australia’s  Summer  months. 
But  this  is  the  first  month  of  the  Autumn,  and  the  crowd  is  thinning. 
I had  no  trouble  in  securing  quarters. 

I took  a Carriage  and  with  my  Baggage  was  driving  to  the  Hotel, 
when  I met  Sir  Thomas  and  Lady  M.,  who  had  preceded  me,  in  a 
Carriage.  They  stopped  and  invited  me  to  join  them  in  a drive, 
15 


226 


LETTER  NO.  13. 


which  I agreed  to,  when  I had  fixed  myself  and  quarters.  On  my 
arrival  at  the  Hotel,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Robertson  invited  me  to  dine  with 
them  at  the  Hotel ; and  then  Mr.  Halliday  extended  the  same  invi- 
tation ; both  proposing  to  spend  the  night  in  town. 

The  afternoon  was  delightful,  and  our  ride  was  all  we  could  desire 
— six  miles  out,  over  a fine  road  to  the  source  of  the  City’s  Water 
supply,  upon  the  side  of  Mount  Wellington.  Our  own  Old  Spring 
in  its  beneficent  flow  is  not  purer  nor  simpler.  The  water  coming 
down  in  a cascade,  forms  a Pool,  into  which  the  main  pipe  is  inserted 
— in  volume  over  abundant  for  Hobart,  with  its  thirty  thousand 
people. 

The  Road  is  ascending  nearly  all  the  way,  and  through  a lai’ge 
part  of  the  City  and  its  suburbs.  The  streets  are  good,  the  Road- 
way Macadam,  and  the  sidewalks  asphalt,  and  the  Houses  mostly  of 
brick  or  stone,  many  of  them  massive  business  structures,  and  hand- 
some, comfortable  homes.  The  people  of  Australasia,  to  the  extent 
of  my  observation,  in  their  short  career,  have  not  delayed  in  putting 
on  the  best  of  the  Old  World’s  Civilization. 

The  views  are  very  striking,  opening  wider  and  wider  in  the  ascent, 
the  City  and  its  fine  Harbor  like  a circular  basin,  with  the  Bay 
shores  and  the  Islands  seemingly  land-locked,  full  in  view;  and 
higher  still,  the  Ocean  opening  in  the  far  distance.  The  country 
everywhere,  save  where  cultivated,  is  covered  with  forests — of  growths 
both  large  and  small ; the  Eucalyptus,  or  Blue  Gum,  prevailing ; but 
adorned  here  and  there  with  Tree  Ferns  and  other  growths. 

We  walked  several  hundred  yards  to  the  spot  where  the  water 
from  the  Cascade  is  collected,  and  thence  flows  through  the  main 
into  the  City.  Here  we  lingered,  enjoying  greatly  the  scene  and 
temperature,  for  the  Evening,  though  full  of  Sunlight,  was  cool 
and  pleasant.  Returning  to  our  Carriage,  which  we  left  at  a 
House  of  Entertainment,  we  refreshed  ourselves  with  a cup  of  tea, 
and  then  drove  back. 

Having  an  hour  or  two  to  spare,  I spent  the  time  in  roving  about 
the  streets  and  looking  in  the  shop  windows,  and  buying  a piece  for 
the  Set. 

I dined  with  the  Robertsons  and  then  called  on  the  Halliday  young 
Ladies,  in  their  Reception  Room,  and  talked  to  them  of  my  travels, 
and  made  them,  they  said,  dissatisfied  to  remain  quietly  at  home, 
when  the  World  with  all  its  curious  things  and  people  were  to  be 


HOBART. 


227 


seen.  They  are  nice  refined  girls,  and  I doubt  not  their  rich  father 
will  gratify  them. 

Same  City  and  Hotel, 

Tuesday,  March  25,  1890. 

To-day  I spent  in  seeing  Hobart,  and  the  things  and  places  to  be 
visited  by  the  Tourist,  in  and  about  it. 

Mr.  Halliday  and  the  two  Young  Ladies  insisted  I should  Break- 
fast with  them ; but  I determined  to  take  an  earlier  one  and  go  up 
the  River  Derwent  to  New  Norfolk — the  most  interesting  excursion 
round  about.  I,  therefore,  had  an  early  Breakfast,  and  by  nine 
o’clock  had  bade  all  my  Friends  Good  Bye  ! and  was  at  the  Little 
Steamer  that  plies  the  River.  They  all  insisted  upon  my  visiting 
them  at  their  City  and  Conntry  Homes  in  Australia ; but  I made 
no  promises,  and  was  pretty  well  resolved  I would  not — which  they 
might  readily  have  inferred.  I told  them  my  first  desire  was  to  see 
my  Letters  from  Home,  until  which  nothing  could  be  promised,  and 
then  to  find  how  I was  to  get  there  by  the  most  speedy  route  via  the 
Cape  Colonies.  I could  conclude  better  about  my  future  movements, 
when  I reached  Melbourne. 

At  quarter  past  nine  we  moved  out  up  the  Derwent.  There  were 
seven  or  eight  passengers  beside  myself — none  of  whom  I knew  or 
desired  to — preferring  tp  be  with  and  by  myself,  to  enjoy  the  move- 
ment and  the  scene.  The  day  was  overcast  early,  and  threatened 
rain ; but  none  fell  and  the  Clouds  were  high,  obscuring  tlie  Sun,  but 
not  the  Landscape.  I stood  or  sat  on  Deck  the  whole  distance — 
twenty-five  miles.  For  fifteen  of  them,  to  Bridgewater,  the  River  was 
broad — more  like  an  Inlet  of  the  Sea — after  that,  it  narrowed,  making 
a sharp  bend,  coming  from  the  West.  The  banks,  on  either  hand, 
presented  many  cultivated  fields,  and  Apple  Orchards  and  Hop  Gar- 
dens, both  of  which  flourish  greatly  here,  and  have  until  recently 
yielded  large  revenues — but  not,  I am  told,  for  sevei’al  years — the 
World  seems  to  be  somewhat  glutted,  especially  with  apples — which, 
you  know,  we  have  equally  and  surely  felt.  The  fields  or  areas 
not  cultivated  are  in  forests,  more  or  less,  and  the  foot-hills  and 
Mountains  behind  them  were  covered  with  trees — some  spindling  and 
scattered — some  heavily  clad  with  what  in  the  distance  was  not  bad 
timber.  The  chief  tree,  however,  still  seemed  to  be  the  Eucalyptus — 


228 


LETTER  NO.  IS. 


large  and  small.  It  was  altogether  an  Excursion  worthy  of  the  cost 
in  time  and  money. 

To  vary  my  Route,  I returned  on  the  train  from  New  Norfolk, 
having  to  wait  there  about  an  hour  and  a half.  A branch  Road  took 
me  back  to  Bridgewater,  where  I changed  to  the  Main  Line  from 
Hobart,  North  to  Launceston.  The  scene  was  not  greatly  varied  : — 
the  track  in  the  main  pursuing  the  River  Bank. 

Mr.  Halliday  had  introduced  me  to  Mr.  Horsfall,  another  wealthy 
Sheep  man  from  Australia.  Mr.  Horsfall  had  said  this  morning  at 
Breakfast,  that  he  would  probably  go  back  to  Melbourne  with  me, 
when  I went  to-morrow ; but  would  tell  me  definitely  when  I returned. 
I returned  at  three  o’clock.  He  met  me  at  the  Hotel  and  said  he 
would  not  be  able  to  go  to  Melbourne,  but  invited  me  to  accompany 
him  on  a drive : which  I cheerfully  agreed  to  do,  to  the  2)oints  of 
interest  I had  not  yet  visited.  We  drove  to  the  Royal  Domain,  the 
Governor’s  Mansion  and  the  Botanical  Gardens,  lying  on  or  near  the 
banks  of  the  Derwent  and  in  close  proximity  to  each  other,  consti- 
tuting a fine  Park  and  Resort  for  the  jjeojile  of  Hobart.  The  Mansion 
is  an  imposing  structure,  and  the  Gardens  well  improved.  We  then 
made  a long  circuit  through  New  Town,  a suburb  of  Hobart,  and 
on  the  ride  saw  again  numerous  thrifty  Orchards,  both  of  Apples  and 
Damsons ; and  some  large  and  fine  edifices,  the  homes  of  the  well- 
to-do  and  wealthy. 

On  our  return  to  the  City  we  strolled  about  the  streets  and  visited 
more  especially  the  Public  Square,  or  Garden,  and  Buildings,  not  far 
from  the  Hotel ; and  again  was  I struck  with  the  lavish  exj»enditure 
of  money  in  constructing  and  kee|)ing  in  rejmir  these  costly  edifices 
and  imjirovements.  Where  did  and  does  the  money  come  from? 
for  Tasmania  is  a Virgin  Country,  with  only  about  one  hundred 
thousand  inhabitants.  Surely,  like  New  Zealand,  she  has  suffered 
and  is  still  suffering  from  a Boom.  The  vast  amount  of  money 
which  these  Buildings,  Public  and  Private,  cost,  was  not  dug  from 
the  soil,  but  still  rests  an  incumbrance  upon  them  and  the  people. 
The  Banks  can  answer  knowingly.  We  walked  till  Dinner  time, 
and  I may  now  well  say  I have  seen  what  Hobart  has  to  interest 
the  stranger. 

I forgot  to  mention  that  two  good  Bronze  Figures  adorn  the  Pub- 
lic Square — one  to  Cauthorn,  a benefactor  of  the  Colony,  and  the 
other  to  Sir  John  Franklin,  the  ill-fated  Arctic  Explorer.  They  are 


LAUNCESTON. 


229 


both  good  works  of  Art — the  latter  especially : showing  a manly  and 
impressive  face  and  figure. 

Another  thing  I am  sure  will  interest  you.  Horsfall  told  me  that 
the  Evening  before  he  and  Halliday  and  Robertson  and  another 
Australian,  whom  I have  not  met,  counted  up  the  Sheep  upon  their 
various  Runs,  and  the  sum  total  of  their  possessions  is  nine  hundred 
thousand.  This  will  give  you  some  idea  of  the  vast  number  in  that 
country,  and  the  wealth  they  represent. 

Launceston,  Tasmania,  Brisbane  Hotel, 

Wednesday,  March  26,  1890. 

Your  map  will  show  you  that,  from  the  name  which  heads  this 
day,  I have  crossed  Tasmania  from  South  to  North.  I came  all  the 
way  by  Rail. 

I left  Hobart  at  eight  o’clock,  and  reached  here  at  two  p.  m.,  dis- 
tance one  hundred  and  thirty-three  miles.  I was  unfortunate  enough 
to  strike  an  Excursion  Train,  taking  people  to  the  Races,  and  the 
throng  was  very  great.  They  have  in  these  Colonies  the  custom  of 
issuing  tickets  just  fifteen  minutes  before  the  hour  of  departure,  as 
they  have  in  Europe,  you  remember ; and  the  consequence  is,  the 
crush  is  most  disagreeable — hustling  like  boys  let  out  of  school ; and 
the  crowd  in  the  cars  was  equally  disagreeable.  The  run,  however, 
is  only  fifty-five  miles  on  this  main  line  to  Paducah,  where  a Branch 
Road  leads  to  the  Race  Course — consequently,  we  were  there  much 
relieved  by  the  emptying  of  the  cars. 

The  highest  point  on  the  Road,  a gentleman  informed  me,  was  a 
mile  or  two  before  reaching  Paducah — an  elevation  of  fourteen  or 
fifteen  hundred  feet.  To  that  point  the  Road  ascended,  and  from  it 
descended  the  whole  distance  to  Launceston.  We  had  aboard  two 
young  Chinamen  dressed  in  our  costume,  save  the  Pigtail,  which  I 
think  they  had  coiled  up  under  their  felt  hats,  though  they  did  not 
at  any  time  remove  them,  and  I could  not  certainly  say.  They  spoke 
English  very  well,  and  in  their  gentlemanly,  quiet  deportment,  were 
in  the  company  conspicuous.  I had  some  talk  with  one  of  them,  a 
sensible  fellow,  about  his  country  and  their  customs.  With  the 
gaming  instincts  of  their  Race,  they  had  left  their  business  in  Hobart 
to  try  their  fortunes  on  the  Course. 


230 


LETTER  NO.  13. 


The  country  is  similar  to  that  I have  spoken  of  already  on  my 
trip  yesterday  as  far  as  Bridgewater.  Beyond  that  place  less  culti- 
vated land  appeared.  Tasmania  is  described  as  an  Island  of  Moun- 
tains, not  in  Ranges,  but  in  clusters  or  clumps,  not  unlike  the  leaves 
of  a Rose ; and  thus  it  seemed  to  me  for  more  than  half  the  run 
to-day — the  Mountains  rising  everywhere  around,  isolated  or  in 
bunches,  covered  wdth  trees  save  where  they  had  been  cleared  for 
grass  or  cultivation.  The  Road  wound  its  track  among  them. 

The  character  of  the  soil  varied  ; sometimes  it  was  good  and  well 
cultivated,  but  I think  the  greater  part  thin — fit  only  for  grazing 
purposes,  and  often  with  many  sheep  in  sight ; much  of  it,  too,  was 
wet  and  sobby — the  whole  leaving  an  unfavorable  impression  with 
regard  to  Tasmania’s  productive  powers.  In  some  places  the  Moun- 
tains, however,  changed,  and  wide,  open  plains  extended  around,  and 
the  elevations  receded  into  distant  Blue  Ranges,  rather  interfering 
with  the  clump  theory  of  which  I have  spoken.  But  these  plains  in 
general  did  not  impress  me  with  great  productiveness  either  in  their 
general  appearance  or  in  the  habitations  and  other  improvements 
upon  their  surface.  Sometimes,  however,  in  areas,  there  were  excep- 
tions— seeming  to  prove  the  rule — and  evidently  excellent  Agricul- 
tural regions. 

The  towns  and  stations  contain  nothing  worthy  of  mention — 
Brighton,  Jerusalem,  Parattah,  Ross,  and  others,  we  passed. 

When  we  reached  Launceston  I took  a Cal)  and,  with  my  Baggage, 
drove  to  the  Steamer  Newcastle,  which,  I was  informed  ■was  a good 
one,  to  take  it  for  Melbourne.  But  the  Train  being  delayed  by  the 
Excursion  throng,  the  Steamer’s  hour  for  departure  had  nearly  come, 
and  the  throng  boarding  her  amounted  to  a crowd.  I was  told  every 
Berth  was  taken,  and  they  were  sj)reading  beds  in  every  vacant  place. 
I saw  no  chance  of  getting  on,  but  determined  I would  drive  to  the 
Office  and  make  inquiry,  so  anxious  was  I to  go.  Here  I received 
no  comfort.  Every  foot  of  room  was  taken,  and  many  had  to  be 
turned  away. 

I then  drove  to  the  Office  of  another  Line,  whose  Steamer  leaves 
to-morrow — a much  inferior  ship,  I hear — but  I cannot  wait  for  a 
better.  I here  obtained  a Bei’th,  and  then  came  to  this  Hotel,  an 
excellent  one,  and  settled  into  the  satisfaction  which  I always  do  on 
travel — that  whatever  betides,  is  for  the  best. 


LAUNCESTON. 


231 


In  the  afternoon  I strolled  over  the  town — a place  of  twelve  or 
fourteen  thousand  people,  well  built  mainly  of  stone  and  brick,  and 
making,  from  the  size  and  style  and  finish  of  the  Buildings,  Public 
and  Private,  the  same  impression,  of  which  I have  spoken  elsewhere 
in  the  Colonies,  of  great  wealth  or  great  indebtedness ; of  the  latter 
rather,  from  those  of  the  Banks  and  their  number.  The  City  is  built 
like  Hobart,  on  undulating  ground,  affording  many  fine  sites,  and  is 
altogether  an  imposing  place,  seated  on  the  River  Tamar.  The  streets 
are  well  graded — Macadam  for  roadway  and  Asphalt  for  pavements. 

Strolling  along,  I observed  a very  handsome  towered  structure  of 
brick  going  up,  and  inquired  of  an  old  Irishman  passing  at  the  time 
what  it  was.  He  said,  the  new  Post  Office.  I remarked,  “ You 
must  have  a great  deal  of  money  out  here,  to  be  able  to  build  such 
fine  houses.”  He  replied,  with  a merry  twinkle  of  the  eye,  “ Oh, 
yes  ! plenty  of  money.”  I told  him  we  were  very  poor  in  America, 
and  would  like  for  Tasmania  to  help  us  in  our  poverty.  Keeping  up 
the  humor,  he  said  ; “ What  a pity  ! what  a pity  ! Don’t  you  think 
you  can  pick  up?  If  you  can’t,  we  will  give  you  some and  then 
jogged  on  quite  satisfied,  as  Pat  ever  is,  that  he  had  gone  me  better 
in  the  joke. 

Tasmania  has,  like  New  Zealand,  been  overdone,  and  is  waiting  a 
renaissance.  Her  population  is  only  about  one  hundred  and  forty 
thousand.  She  has,  like  New  Zealand,  no  great  Natural  cufiosites  to 
attract  the  current  of  travel,  which  her  sister  Colony  can  ever  draw. 
Most  of  her  area  is  Mountains,  beyond  the  reach  of  tillage,  covered 
with  forests  in  the  main,  which  can  hardly  deserve  the  reputation  of 
furnishing  first-class  Lumber,  I understand.  The  climate  is  regarded 
among  the  finest  in  the  world,  and  many  from  Australia  come  in 
their  heated  Summer  time  to  enjoy  it.  It  was  once  a Penal  Colony, 
succeeding  Botany  Bay  in  New  South  Wales,  Australia,  in  that  ill- 
omened  fate.  Transportation  was  abolished  in  1851,  and  Tasmania 
entered  upon  her  career  in  that  year  with  Victoria ; but  the  latter 
far  outstripped  her  in  the  race  of  life,  by  the  wonderful  Gold  find  of 
that  era,  and  her  other  more  substantial  resources,  which  like  a magnet 
drew  values  from  the  adjacent  Colonies,  thus  draining  for  the  time 
their  resources  and  crippling  their  growth. 

Yet  still  the  stranger  cannot  help  being  struck  with  wonder  at  the 
manner  in  which  these  far-off  Antipodes  have  strided  in  their  material 
march  to  the  fore-front  of  Nations,  in  the  best  products  of  our  Civil- 


232 


LETTER.  NO.  13. 


ization.  If  they  have  gone  too  fast,  they  will  have  to  suffer  for  it, 
and  stop  to  mend  their  hold,  like  many  another  people  have  had  to 
do  in  the  progress  of  their  lives. 

From  Launceston  to  Melbourne, 

And  in  Melbourne,  Australia,  Grand  Hotel, 

Thursday  and  Friday,  March  27  and  28,  1890. 

On  Thursday  I went  with  my  Baggage  to  the  Landing  of  the 
Steamer  Flinders,  bound  for  Melbourne,  an  hour  or  two  before  her 
time  for  departure.  Having  nothing  else  to  do,  I fixed  aboard,  and 
then  wandered  about  the  Piers,  looking  at  the  Trade  or  prospecting 
my  fellow  passengers  whilst  they  came.  The  crowd  was  great  again, 
and  every  available  space  on  the  Ship  was  filled.  My  Cabin  had 
four ; but  leaving  the  door  open  we  got  along  very  well,  they  making 
themselves  agreeable  enough.  Among  the  Passengers,  my  Friend 
Horsfall  appeared — called,  he  told  me,  after  I left,  to  Melbourne  on 
business.  I was  glad  to  see  him,  for  he  knows  the  region  well,  and 
was  of  great  service  in  being  with  me  on  Deck  during  the  Voyage 
and  pointing  out  the  things  of  intei’est. 

The  steam  down  the  River  Tamar  was  striking.  Where  Launceston 
is  located  the  stream  is  narrow,  and  the  tide,  which  is  considerable, 
being  out,  left  a muddy  looking  little  current,  not  favorable  to  beauty 
or  to  commerce.  At  two  o’clock,  p.  m.,  it  was  improved  by  the  tidal 
flow,  and  we  steamed  out,  helped  by  boats  and  cables  to  keep  the 
Ship  from  ploughing  the  close-lying  banks.  Half  a mile  below  the 
River  widened  out,  and  appeared  thence  on  to  be  more  of  an  Inlet  of 
the  Sea  or  Estuary  than  a River,  showing  how  unhappily  the  site 
of  Launceston  was  chosen  by  its  founders.  Yet,  receding,  the  City 
looked  well,  solidly  built  on  the  low  ground,  the  houses  crowning  the 
surrounding  elevations,  many  of  them  too  inaccessible,  apparently, 
for  the  comfort  and  convenience  of  the  occupants. 

The  steam  down  the  River  to  Bass  Strait  is  forty  or  fifty  miles. 
For  some  distance,  cleared  land  appeared  on  either  side,  and  home- 
steads ; then  it  was  forest-clad  mountains,  with  timber  such  as  I have 
spoken  of  elsewhere  upon  the  Island.  The  approach  to  the  River’s 
mouth,  where  it  and  the  Strait  conjoin,  is  very  fine.  On  the  right, 
in  a recess,  lies  Georgetown,  and  then  upon  highlands  four  conspicu- 
ous Light  Houses,  their  Lamps  just  lit  and  twinkling,  whilst  on  the 


LAUNCESTON  TO  MELBOURNE. 


233 


other,  the  Sun  was  setting  with  great  splendor,  as  Alexander  Smith — 
a Poet  we  used  to  read  twenty  or  thirty  years  ago — was  wont  to  say, 
like  a Giant  dying  in  his  blood. 

The  River  was  quiet,  and  invited  the  passengers  out  to  see  it. 
When  its  waters  flowed  into  the  Strait,  and  the  Vessel  passed  out 
upon  the  rougher  current,  its  billows  soon  scattered  them,  and  one 
hapless  woman,  before  her  husband  could  carry  her  to  a place  of 
safety,  fell  insensible  on  Deck.  A curious  creature  is  the  Mai  de 
Mer  ! 

Yet  the  night,  though  rough  to  most  on  board,  was  kind  to  me, 
and  whilst  my  three  Room-mates — strong  youiig  men — had  an  un- 
happy time,  I enjoyed  the  motion,  which  charmed  me  like  a lulla.by. 

Early  this  morning — Friday — I was  out,  and  in  the  distance  saw 
Australia’s  low-lying  Shores.  Advancing  during  the  morning  hours. 
Cape  Schauk  came  first  in  sight — in  front  of  which  stands  near  by 
in  the  Sea  a striking  shaft,  called  Pulpit  Rock.  After  a while  we 
approach  the  entrance  to  Port  Philip,  an  imposing  gatewa}q  where 
the  waters  of  the  Port  and  Strait  meet  in  conflict.  The  Headlands 
close  in,  and  taking  my  stand  upon  the  Steamer’s  Prow,  I enjoyed 
the  careering  of  the  Ship,  as  she  mounted  the  billows,  caused  by  the 
incoming  and  outgoing  waters.  It  recalled  to  me  the  meeting  of  the 
Columbia  River’s  flow  with  the  Ocean  across  the  Bar,  which,  you 
will  remember,  drove  us  back  to  Astoria.  Here,  too,  as  there,  were 
several  wrecks  around,  showing  that  neither  place  is  absolutely  free 
from  danger. 

Just  inside  is  Queeuscliff,  with  numerous  fine  Hotels  and  Baths — 
dominated  by  a Light  House — where  Melbourne’s  people  come  to 
bathe  and  rusticate,  and  rest.  Across  Port  Philip,  then,  we  passed 
over  smooth  water — a great  basin  of  thirty  or  forty  miles  in  diameter 
— and  then  the  houses  of  the  greatest  City  of  the  Antipodes  appeared, 
stretched  in  its  huge  flatness  along  the  Shore,  showing  dimly  its 
structures  and  its  Ships  through  smoke  and  mist.  I could  not  have 
had  a flner  day — the  air  was  soft  and  balmy,  and  I could  stand  on 
my  outlook,  without  discomfort  of  heat  or  cold,  with  my  Friend 
Horsfall  and  a young  Melbourne  man,  one  of  my  Room-mates,  by 
my  side,  to  point  out  the  sights  and  obtain  an  admirable  impression 
of  the  lay  of  Melbourne  and  its  import.  We  reached  the  City  about 
half-past  two  o’clock — distant  from  Launceston,  two  hundred  and 
seventy-seven  miles. 


234 


LETTER  NO.  13. 


When  we  landed,  Horsfall  introduced  me  to  the  Customs  Officer, 
who  without  demur  and  most  politely  passed  Trunk  and  Satchel,  not 
opening  either.  This  was  especially  courteous  here,  for  Melbourne 
and  its  Colony,  Victoria,  are  proverbially  protective,  and  the  duties 
are  very  high,  and  the  espionage  strict.  Taking  a Cab,  with  my 
Baggage,  I drove  at  once  to  the  Union  Bank  of  Australia  to  get  my 
Letters,  which  I hoped  had  gathered  from  you  all ; and  clutching 
them  with  the  greed  of  avarice,  I hurried  to  the  Hotel,  like  a Miser 
with  a treasure  to  his  den. 

I soon  had  a Room  assigned  me,  and  fonnd  I had  the  following 
Letters — together  with  eight  packages  of  Papers — forwarded  from 
Auckland  : one  from  Charles,  of  January  27  ; one  from  Margaret, 
of  January  12  ; and  four  from  yourself,  viz.  January  9,  January  15, 
January  23,  and  January  30;  all  of  yours  came  safely,  that  could  be 
received  in  Auckland  and  transmitted  in  the  time.  I fear  Charles’ 
and  Margai'et’s  have  failed  for  want  of  sufficient  postage.  These 
Colonies  ai’e  not  in  the  Postal  Union,  I think  I told  you,  and  have 
their  own  special  I'ates,  payable  in  advance.  You  say  two  of  yours 
met  the  fate  of  a return  to  Winchester  from  New  York,  for  insuf- 
ficiency of  stamps.  Theirs,  not  having  the  Postmaster’s  impression 
intelligible,  were  thrown  into  the  waste  basket.  Always  be  careful 
to  make  the  inquiry  before  you  mail  the  Letters  what  the  Postage  is. 
You  say  you  did  of  the  Postmaster,  and  he  made  a mistake.  The 
next  point  of  designation,  I advised  you,  is  Cape  Town,  Africa,  care  of 
Bank  of  Africa.  I do  not  know  whether  that  is  in  the  Postal  Union 
or  not ; make  inquiry. 

I am  glad  you  are  progressing  favorably  with  the  improvements 
and  that  you  think  well  of  the  outlay.  Don’t  forget  what  I told  you 
about  the  supports,  both  of  the  Store  Room  with  the  brick  columns 
and  the  upper  stories  upon  the  Store  Room  floor.  And  whilst  at  it, 
fix  the  cellar  openings — brick  work — and  put  an  iron  door  in  front. 
You  speak  of  the  ceiling  being  of  plank,  to  prevent  injury  to  it  from 
the  jarring  above.  Don’t,  by  any  means,  allow  heavy  machinery  on 
the  upper  floors ; make  the  occupant  use  the  back  building  for  that. 
But  all  this  is  surplussage,  doubtless, — you  have  thought  of  it  your- 
self. 

I was  truly  sorry  to  hear  about  the  Barn  Roof.  That  was  our 
friend  John’s  work;  and  I especially  and  frequently,  when  he  was 
flxing  it,  at  the  time  it  was  blown  off  before,  urged  him  to  lap  and 


MELBOURNE. 


235 


stay  the  tin  well.  I fear  he  did  not  do  it,  or  it  would  not  have  been 
carried  away  again.  Some  day,  with  such  careless  work,  the  whole 
Roof  will  be  whirled  off  like  a scroll,  and  put  me  to  hundreds  of 
dollars  of  expense.  See  him,  and  ask  him,  if  he  did  it  any  better 
than  before? 

You  tell  me  nothing  concerning  the  Wheat  crop  growing.  It  was 
a poor  show  when  I left,  but  I hope  the  wonderfully  mild  winter  of 
which  you  speak  has  brought  it  out.  How  I should  like  to  have 
that  Farm  cultivated  as  I think  it  ought  to  be.  But  that,  I reckon, 
I will  never  see. 

You  speak  of  the  death  of  poor  Fred  Yulton.  No  better  young 
man  ever  grew  up  in  onr  town,  and  his  seems  a sad  fate.  His  life 
eminently  shows  that  high  qualities  are  not  without  their  reward, 
even  now-a-days,  upon  the  Earth  ; for  his  life  was  elevated,  praise- 
worthy and  prosperous. 

Our  good  neighbor,  Mr.  Bell,  has  also  gone.  This  I am  not  sur- 
prised to  hear.  He  was  an  old  man,  nearly  four-score,  and  departed  in 
Nature’s  ordinary  course,  having  lived  beyond  our  allotted  span.  You 
remember  I saw  him  the  day  before  I left.  He  held  my  hand  some 
time,  and  with  his  benediction,  said  we  would  never  meet  in  this 
world  again,  and  wished  me  a safe  return  from  my  long  journey  and 
all  good  things  during  the  years  I should  survive  him.  I shall  miss 
him  and  our  cheery  meetings  greatly. 

It  gratifies  me  to  know  yon  are  getting  on  comfortably  in  your 
household  matters ; I hope  that  condition  of  things  may  continue. 
Glad,  too,  to  know  that  Carter  is  bright  and  gay. 

You  must  give  always  my  love  to  Cousin  Mary  I am  truly 
pleased  she  is  doing  well.  Sorry  to  hear  of  Dr.  Fuller’s  Grippe 
attack  ; hope  it  did  not  last  long.  Tell  him  and  Mick  and  our 
neighbors  generally  I trust  they  will  continue  to  brighten  your  lone- 
liness with  their  presence. 

I think  you  are  right  to  call  in  the  Travel  Books,  save  two  of 
each,  as  you  proposed.  I fear  A.  don’t  know  where  the  one  I lent 
him  is.  Look  at  the  list  I left  and  keep  them  all  in  view. 

The  Cable  brings  the  most  dreadful  news  of  the  destruction  of 
Louisville,  Kentucky,  by  a Cyclone.  I sincerely  trust  our  friends, 
the  Robinsons,  escaped  its  ravages. 

To  Charles:  Your  Letter  came.  Would  it  had  been  more  numer- 
ous and  longer  ! — not,  however,  full  of  Grippe  news,  like  that  which 


236 


LETTER  NO.  13. 


you  tell  me  invaded  your  preserves  and  made  victims  of  your  house- 
hold, scattering  them  around — quite  similar  in  its  work  to  the  Mai 
de  Mer,  of  which  these  pages  tell  you.  I hope  all  are  well  again  and 
have  no  lingering  wounds.  The  children,  you  say,  trace  my  travels 
on  the  Map.  By  the  time  I have  done,  should  they  continue  with 
me,  they  will  have  used  up  the  Atlas  of  the  World.  May  they  have 
pleasure  and  profit  in  this  new  method  of  Geographic  Study.  Love 
and  kisses  for  them  all.  Essie  was  too  busy  to  take  on  sick ; Julian 
has  thrown  off  the  malady,  and  both  are  themselves  again  in  the 
well  ordered  house.  Our  Friend,  Mr.  Cassius  Lee,  has  gone — an 
honorable  man,  full  of  years  and  of  good  works,  as  he  regai’ded  good- 
ness. Such  men  will  no  more  grow ; the  times  are  completely  out  of 
joint  for  them.  Our  old  associates  and  friends  are  falling  around  us 
like  Autumn  leaves.  You  say  Dr.  Norton  always  asks  after  me. 
Give  him  my  kindest  wishes  in  return.  He  and  I have  many 
thoughts  in  common.  He  and  I,  if  I mistake  not,  look  upon  Life, 
not  as  a sombre,  but  a serious  thing ; and  in  that  is  both  the  happi- 
ness and  the  glory  of  it.  Tell  Mrs.  Blackburn  I am  glad  she  finds 
such  pleasure  in  being  with  me  in  my  Travel  wanderings. 

To  Margaret : You  have  seen  what  I have  said  about  my  appre- 
hensions concerning  the  miscarriage  of  your  Letters,  or  rather  their 
failure  for  want  of  proper  postage  to  carry  at  all.  I hope  they  will 
yet  come  to  hand.  Doubtless,  Taylor  has  told  you  of  the  fate  of  his 
and  put  you  on  your  guard.  Yours  and  Taylor’s  and  Charles’  Let- 
ters are  each  full  of  the  Grippe  invasion — a curious  epidemic.  Taylor 
tells  me  he  has  had  it.  I hope  Dr.  Mason  will  escape,  and  neither 
be  used  up  by  their  work.  Taylor  tells  me  little  Mag.  has  had  it 
slightly;  Mary  has  escaped.  Tell  her  she  must  write  oftener.  My 
last  Letter  addressed  to  her  contained  eighty  pages,  I think — thus 
she  owes  me  many.  You  speak  of  your  ear  troubling  you  again.  I 
sincerely  hope  that  trouble  has  clean  gone.  Love  to  Cousin  Fred, 
and  Bet.  You  say  the  former  is  not  well. 

The  afternoon  was  spent  in  reading  the  Letters,  and  thus  com- 
muning with  you  all. 

You  have  observed,  I have  no  doubt,  from  the  United  States 
Papers,  that  Henry  George  is  out  here  travelling  through  the  Colo- 
nies, ventilating  his  theories.  I noticed  by  the  Melbourne  Papers 
that  he  was  to  deliver  an  address  to-night  in  the  Town  Hall — the 
third  and  last  of  the  Series,  especially  upon  the  Single  Land  Tax ; 


MELBOURNE— HENRY  GEORGE. 


237 


the  one  for  which  he  claims  originality  and  upon  which  he  bases  his 
claim  to  distinction.  I resolved  to  go — not  only  that  I might  see 
and  hear  him,  neither  of  which  were  ever  before  in  my  power,  but 
that  I might  witness  the  presence  and  the  behavior  of  an  Australian 
crowd, 

I went  early  to  secure  a good  seat  and  observe  the  gathering  of  the 
audience.  The  Hall  is  a very  fine  one,  both  from  the  size  of  the 
Auditorium  and  its  acoustic  qualities,  capable  of  seating  two  thousand 
people — the  ceiling  arching  the  whole,  and  covering  it  with  a single 
span.  The  Platform  is  spacious  and  backed  by  an  immense  Organ 
— Concerts  being  often  held  there.  The  people,  among  whom  were 
probably  half  a dozen  women,  collected  quietly  and  gradually,  till 
they  filled  the  House;  and  a better  looking,  better  behaved  assembly 
I never  saw. 

George  is  a short,  thick-set  man,  with  a well-formed  head  entirely 
bald;  his  cheeks  and  chin  covered  with  a heavy  uncut,  sandy  beard. 
He  is  not  an  orator,  but  speaks  distinctly  and  well,  without  much 
action,  yet  with  earnestness  and  confidence.  The  Audience  were, 
in  the  main,  those  who  had  invited  him  to  come,  and  were  ready  to 
endorse  his  utterances  whether  they  comprehended  them  or  not — 
many,  if  not  most  of  them,  under  the  idea  that  his  views  were  for 
the  benefit  of  those  who  had  no  property,  at  the  expense  of  those  who 
had. 

Having  read  George’s  Books,  I knew  his  views,  and,  therefore, 
did  not  go  to  hear  him  with  the  expectation  of  learning  much,  or 
hearing  anything  new ; rather  for  the  purpose  of  seeing  how  he  pre- 
sented them  orally,  and  his  mental  resources.  I heard  nothing  new, 
nor  did  he  utter  any  ideas  which  I had  not  already  gathered  from 
his  writings. 

I have  not  time,  of  course,  to  state  his  points ; nor  would  they 
interest  you.  His  definition  of  the  basis  of  Property  is  a pure 
assumption  ; and  his  proposed  theory  of  taxation,  to  relieve  Progress 
of  attendant  Poverty,  a transmission  of  the  poor  not  only  to  injustice, 
but  to  more  grievous  burdens  than  under  present  dispensations  they 
have  now  to  bear.  Alas  ! the  World  has  to  learn  and  re-learn,  with 
unspeakable  suffering,  from  age  to  age,  and  generation  to  generation, 
under  the  Gad-fly  irritation  of  the  ignorant,  the  shallow,  or  the  bad, 
that  to  Revolutionize  is  not  to  Reform.  To  destroy,  is  easy,  and 
given  unto  the  Iconoclast  to  do ; to  construct  is  difficult,  and  given 


238 


LETTER  NO.  IS. 


unto  only  a few  Master  Builders,  who  appear  now  and  then  upon  the 
Earth.  Henry  George  is  not  one  of  these. 

He  and  his  friends,  in  extreme  confidence,  either  in  his  strength  or 
that  of  his  principles,  or  in  both,  were  imprudent  enough,  at  the  con- 
clusion of  his  Address,  to  invite  questions  from  the  Audience.  They 
came  in  considerable  numbers,  none  of  them  profound  or  radical,  I 
thought,  yet  enough  to  confound  George  and  impair  the  force,  if  not 
destroy  the  effect,  of  his  set  speech.  Here  I was  greatly  disappointed 
in  him.  I supposed  having  addressed  popular  audiences  upon  his 
pet  theory  for  many  years,  and  having  really  thought  of  nothing  else 
for  many  more,  he  would  be  fully  armed  for  such  an  emergency,  and 
be  able  to  give  plausible,  if  not  profound  answers.  But  he  was  com- 
pletely thrown  adrift,  showing  himself  a man  of  scant  intellectual 
power  and  resource. 

Yet  the  bulk  of  the  audience,  composed  mainly  of  youths,  and 
young,  and  uneducated  men,  not  comprehending  the  import,  either 
of  the  subject  or  questions,  or  deeming  it  their  duty  to  uphold  their 
Champion  right  or  wrong — either  way  promising  them  forty  acres 
and  a mule — yelled  approval  to  his  answers.  When  such  great  and 
far-reaching  questions  come  before  a Popular  Assembly,  they  are 
apt  to  decide  according  rather  to  their  desire,  than  by  their  judgment. 
When  the  Greeks,  in  the  fulness  of  their  admiration,  had  given  Aris- 
tides the  name  of  Just,  and  the  question  of  his  banishment  from 
Athens  subsequently  rose — moving  among  them,  in  the  popular 
assembly,  and  seeing  that  the  tide  of  their  approval  had  turned,  he 
asked  some  of  them  why  they  wished  to  banish  Aristides,  and  what 
had  he  done  to  deserve  such  ignominy  ? they  promptly  answered, 
“Nothing;  but  they  were  weary  of  hearing  him  called  the  Just.” 
The  poor,  however  deservedly  poor,  are  weary  of  hearing  their 
neighbor  called  rich,  however  honorably  or  laboriously  he  has  won 
the  wealth. 

Thus  much  for  Henry  George.  Haj^pily  the  World  is  large,  and 
ofttimes  before  such  men  can  permeate  it  with  their  noxious  or  shallow 
thoughts,  they  thrash  themselves  out,  like  the  cracker  of  a whip ; 
George  is  essentially  both  a humbug  and  a demagogue.  When  he 
found  that  the  questions  asked  had  left  him  worsted — which  he, 
doubtless,  felt  more  than  many  of  his  friends — he,  without  any  rele- 
vancy, told  the  Story  of  some  poor  Irish  peasant  driven  out  by  a 
greedy,  heartless.  Landlord,  and  of  a brutal  Slave-owner  maltreating 


MELBOURNE. 


239 


his  own  property,  as  if  sentimentality  has  anything  to  do  with 
Political  Economy,  or  Reason  or  Logic  would  condescend  to  argue 
from  the  use  to  the  abuse — especially  as  when  he  began,  he  promised 
to  stick  to  the  pure  question  of  the  Principles  involved,  which  promise 
he  fulfilled,  till  he  felt  his  discomfiture  and  his  need  of  sympathy, 
more  than  of  approval. 

Same  City  and  Hotel, 

Saturday,  3Iarch  29,  1890. 

After  Breakfast,  I walked  through  the  Treasury  Gardens,  and  then 
down  Collins  Street,  one  of  the  chief  thoroughfares  of  the  City ; on 
my  way  I bought  myself  a new  Hat,  tlie  travel  through  New  Zea- 
land and  Tasmania  having  batterfanged  mine  out  of  shape  and  color. 
I,  also,  bought  a Map  of  Melbourne  to  facilitate  my  investigations. 
I will  send,  at  the  time  I mail  this  Letter,  one  each  to  you,  and 
Charles,  and  Margaret : it  will  aid  you  in  following  my  movements, 
and,  also,  prevent,  on  my  part,  much  circumlocution.  It  is  a City  of 
four  or  five  hundred  thousand  people  they  claim,  and  needs  a chart 
to  help  the  traveller  and  his  Leader. 

This  Hotel,  you  observe,  is  on  the  Northeast  of  the  Melbourne 
District,  between  Collins  and  Bourke — pronounced  Burke — Street. 
Its  situation  is  admirable.  It  fronts  upon  the  Treasury  Gardens, 
Spring  Street  running  between.  Across  that  street  and  fronting  on 
it  stands,  on  the  left  of  the  Hotel,  the  new  Parliament  House,  a large 
and  ornate  structure  with  Doric  Columns  built  of  a buff  stone  indig- 
enous to  the  Grampian  Mountains  in  the  Western  part  of  Victoria; 
on  the  right  are  the  Treasury  and  other  Public  Buildings,  standing 
among  the  Gardens.  All  these  are  in  view  whilst  I write  from  my 
lofty  window  in  the  fourth  story,  beyond  stretching  a large  part 
of  the  City. 

The  Hotel  faces  Northeast.  On  its  right,  running  South  westward, 
is  Collins  Street ; and  at  its  head  and  looking  down  it  is  the  Treasury 
Building,  built  of  a similar  stone  with  that  of  the  Parliament  House. 
The  other  Public  Buildings  are  in  its  rear — of  Brick,  stuccoed ; the 
Gardens  extend  around.  Near  by  the  Treasury  Building,  in  an  open 
paved  space,  is  an  excellent  Colossal  Bronze  Figure  of  General  Gor- 
don in  his  undress  military  jacket,  standing  upon  a granite  base — on 
the  four  faces  of  which  are  Alto-Relievos  in  Bronze,  telling  the  story 
of  his  life. 


240 


LETTER  NO.  13. 


I strolled  along  Collins  Street,  looking  at  the  Buildings,  the  people, 
and  into  the  shop  windows.  Near  the  farther  end,  probably  a mile 
distant,  I observed  the  spread  Eagle  of  the  Great  Republic,  announc- 
ing the  Consulate,  in  the  Federal  Coffee  Palace,  and  I determined  to 
go  in  and  see  Mr.  James  P.  Lesesne,  of  South  Carolina,  the  gentle- 
man who  fills  the  Post.  He  was  out ; but  I waited  his  return — and 
when  he  did,  received  from  him  a cordial  greeting.  He  said  Mr. 
Halliday  had  told  him  a few  days  ago  of  my  presence  in  the  Colo- 
nies, and  he  was  happy  to  see  me  and  render  any  service  in  his 
power.  I responded  that  I had  simply  called  to  pay  my  respects. 
He  was  appointed  by  Cleveland,  and  is  holding  over,  waiting.  He 
is  a pleasant,  gentlemanly  person,  and  we  had  an  agreeable  talk  of 
half  an  hour  or  more.  I may  see  him  again,  which  he  urged  me  to 
do,  that  he  might  aid  me  in  any  way  during  my  visit  to  the  Country. 

Whilst  at  Lunch,  Mr.  Stuart  Campbell,  with  whom  I met  fre- 
quently in  New  Zealand,  and  of  whom,  may  be,  I have  spoken — the 
same  whom  Lady  Mannering  mentioned  in  the  Hot  Lake  Region  of 
the  North  Island — came  and  sat  with  me.  We  agreed  to  spend  the 
afternoon  together  in  seeing  some  of  the  sights  of  Melbourne. 

We  went  to  the  Exhibition  Building,  located  in  the  Carlton  Gar- 
dens— the  remnant  of  the  great  International  Exposition  that  was 
held  here  a year  or  two  ago,  and  which,  like  our  own  at  Philadelphia, 
was  a material  success  and  a financial  failure.  The  Building  is  not 
far,  you  observe,  from  the  Hotel,  at  the  North  end  of  Spring  Street, 
and  is  surrounded  by  large  Grounds,  still  kept  improved  by  trees  and 
highly  cultivated  Gardens  of  shrubs  and  flowers.  It  contains  some 
things  left  over  from  the  Show,  that  were  on  Exhibition,  and  now 
only  valuable  as  advertisements  for  the  Exhibitors — among  them  a 
few  Paintings,  Engravings,  Crayons  and  Daguerreotypes.  But  the 
chief  object  of  intei’est  now  is  the  Aquarium,  one  of  the  finest  I ever 
saw,  in  the  number  and  variety  and  excellent  condition  of  its  con- 
tents. The  place  itself  is  filled  up  with  Grottoes,  and  Caves,  and 
Pools,  and  Tanks,  seemingly  regardless  of  expense ; and  the  Seals, 
and  Fish,  and  Turtles,  and  Eels,  and  other  watery  creatures  appear 
to  have  a good  time,  and  to  be  as  joyous  as  those  they  left  behind  in 
their  aqueous  habitat. 

Satisfied  here  we,  after  a short  walk,  took  a Cable  Tram  on  Eliza- 
beth Street,  and  went  to  visit  the  Zoological  Gardens,  a couple  of 
miles  distant  from  the  Exhibition  Building  in  the  same  section  of  the 


MELBOURNE. 


241 


City.  Here  I will  stop  to  say,  that  Melbourne  boasts  the  finest  Cable 
Street  Car  System  in  the  World,  both  in  the  extended  area  of  its 
operations  and  the  perfection  of  its  work,  not  even  excepting  San 
Francisco.  I will  not  dispute  its  claim ; certainly  from  its  Lines 
traced  upon  the  map,  and  the  ease  and  safety  and  order  with  which 
they  speed  along  the  streets,  nothing  better  could  be  desired. 

The  Gardens,  seated  in  and  surrounded  by  the  Royal  Park,  like 
the  Aquarium,  is  well  done.  The  space  they  occupy  is  ornamented 
handsomely,  and  the  creatures  they  contain  are  well  housed  and  cared 
for.  They  are  numerous  and  varied,  and  in  the  main  sleek  and  fat. 
The  Bengal  Tiger  and  the  African  Lion  are  magnificent  specimens, 
and  could  not  look  more  saucy,  though  they  could  more  dangerous, 
in  their  native  wilds.  They  have  a fine  Elephant,  which  little  children 
were  permitted  to  ride  around  a ring.  The  keeper,  from  an  elevated 
platform,  would  fill  the  Howdah  with  eight  or  ten  girls  and  boys,  that 
the  sagacious  ci’eature  understood  he  was  to  carry  safely,  which  he 
carefully  did,  equally  to  his  gratification  and  to  theirs.  We  returned 
by  the  same  route. 

In  the  Evening  I walked  to  Meuzie’s  Hotel  to  call  upon  my 
Friends,  Lady  Mackelwraith  and  the  Misses  Halliday.  I found 
Lady  M.  just  leaving  the  Hotel  for  the  Opera.  She  expressed  her 
great  regrets,  and  invited  me  the  next  day  to  Breakfast,  Lunch  or 
Dinner,  all  of  which,  in  their  order,  I declined.  She  said  Sir  Thomas 
had  been  confined  to  his  Room  and  Bed  ever  since  he  had  been  in 
the  City,  and  urged  me  to  go  up  and  see  him.  This  I also  declined  ; 
but  his  servant  informing  him  I was  below,  came  with  an  urgent 
message  that  Sir  Thomas  wanted  to  see  me  in  his  Room.  I went 
and  found  him  quite  sick  with  the  Grippe,  and  complaining  and 
making  a quantity  of  fuss,  just  like  you  have  heard  from  many  of 
your  patients  at  his  Antipodes. 

I then  called  upon  the  Misses  Halliday,  and  received  from  them 
an  equally  cordial  greeting.  Their  Father  had  only  spent  a day  in 
Melbourne,  and  then  gone  on  to  his  Country  Home.  They  will 
probably  spend  a week  in  town.  We  had  a pleasant  chat,  and  telling 
them  I would  try  to  call  again,  we  parted.  I inquired  for  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  Robertson,  but  they  were  at  their  home,  three  or  four  miles  out, 
and  I fear  I will  not  have  time  to  see  them  any  more. 

Menzie’s  Hotel  is  a mile  or  more  away,  at  the  other  end  of  Bourke 
Street,  which  runs  parallel,  you  will  find  upon  the  map,  to  Collins, 
16 


242 


LETTER  NO.  13. 


and  is  a street  of  equally  solid  import.  On  my  walk  I stopped  at 
the  Eastern  Market  Place,  and  being  Saturday  Evening,  I found  it 
thronged  with  commodities  and  people.  It  has  two  floors,  one  above 
and  one  below — one  descending,  the  other  ascending  from  the  street; 
and  I spent  some  time  with  my  usual  interest  in  looking  at  the  people 
and  the  articles,  natural  and  artificial,  in  the  Booths  and  Stalls;  both 
were  creditable  to  Melbourne.  I intended  to  have  returned  upon  the 
Tram,  but  interested,  I strolled  on,  threading  my  way  for  probably 
near  a mile,  through  throngs  of  people,  well  dressed  and  well  behaved, 
come  out  to  see  each  other,  and  the  shops,  and  to  chat  and  while  an 
hour  or  two,  on  the  last  work  day  of  the  week.  I never  saw,  under 
similar  circumstances,  in  any  City,  a bigger  or  better  ordered  crowd. 

Same  City  and  Hotel, 

Sunday,  March  30,  J 890. 

This  Morning  I spent  in  my  Room,  writing  some  of  the  foregoing 
pages  and  enjoying  communion  with  you  all — more  absorbingly  de- 
lightful than  anything  Antipodean  Melbourne  has  within  her  borders. 

Campbell  and  I lunched  together  and  then  walked  out  to  see  some- 
thing new.  Strolling  on  Spring  Street  Southeastward,  with  the 
Treasury  Gardens  on  our  left,  we  came  to  Flinders,  running  parallel 
to  Collins.  This  we  pedestrianized.  BeyoJid  it,  on  our  left,  an  open 
ragged  space,  occupied  on  lower  ground  by  the  Railroad  Station  and 
Shops  ; beyond  that  the  extensive  area  called  the  Domain,  embracing 
the  Governor’s  Mansion — an  imposing  yellow  Edifice,  with  a central 
Tower,  surrounded  by  spacious  Grounds,  bounded  in  turn  by  the 
Public  or  Botanic  Gardens — all  on  an  elevated  area,  and  conspicuous 
in  the  distance  for  its  spread  of  forest  and  foliage. 

Opposite  the  Railway  Station  on  Flinders  is  the  unfinished  Cathe- 
dral of  the  English  Church,  a building  of  the  same  stone  apparently 
as  the  Parliament  and  Tx’easury  Houses — to  be  an  imposing  and 
costly  affair — and  just  in  front,  across  the  street,  flows  the  Yarra 
River,  winding  its  dirty,  sluggish,  narrow  current  through  the  City; 
here  spanned  by  a three-arch,  handsome  Iron  Bridge,  called  Princes 
— the  only  one  worth  mentioning  in  Melbourne. 

We  took  the  Cable  Tram  at  this  Bridge  and  rode  to  the  main 
entrance  of  the  Botanical  Gardens,  beyond  the  Governor’s  House 
and  Grounds,  and  thence  Avalked  through  it — sometimes  a waste, 


MELBOURNE. 


243 


sometimes  elaborately  adorned  with  trees  and  shrubs  and  flowers ; 
resting  now  and  then  to  observe  the  people  of  every  age  and  sex 
thronging  the  premises  this  Sunday  afternoon.  The  Gardens  are 
attractive  now  ; they  will  be  more  so  with  every  coming  year,  should 
the  Melbourne  people  preserve  that  pride  which  they  seem  to  cherish 
for  their  City. 

Continuing  our  walk,  we  traversed  pretty  much  the  entire  Grounds, 
passing  the  Lake,  a pond  of  muddy  water,  the  best  the  watersheds 
afford,  and  the  Governor’s  preserves,  we  came  to  the  Yarra,  flowing 
with  equally  muddy  current  through  the  Gardens,  and  followed  it  to 
the  Princes’  Bridge,  meeting  hundreds,  walking  like  ourselves  towards 
the  Sunday-Afteruoon  Pleasui’e-Fields  of  Melbourne. 

Crossing  the  Bridge,  we  walked  up  Swanston  Street  to  Collins, 
and  thence,  through  the  Treasiuy,  sought  the  Fitzroy  Gardens,  and 
wandered  there  ad  libitum ; in  the  conjoined  growth  and  size  of  their 
trees,  and  their  solid  merit  as  a Park,  altogether  the  most  admirable 
exhibit  Melbourne  can  show  the  stranger.  And  then  returning  to 
our  Hotel  we  finished  the  day.  Soon  after  Dinner,  I went  to  Bed, 
and  found  it  welcome  enough  after  my  long  tramp,  and  sleep  and  I 
had  an  “ awful  lovely  ” time  together. 

Same  City  and  Hotel, 

Monday,  March  31,  1890. 

Campbell  and  I walked  out  after  Breakfast  to  see  some  more  of 
Melbourne’s  curiosities.  Obliquely  across  Spring  Street  from  this 
Hotel,  you  observe,  stands  the  Parliament  House,  of  which  I have 
already  spoken.  W e went  there.  Portions  of  it  have  been  built  for 
many  years  ; they  have  added  to  it,  from  time  to  time,  to  meet  the 
Colony’s  needs,  and  are  at  present  engaged  in  its  extension  and  adorn- 
ment— among  other  things,  laying  a handsome  Mosaic  pavement  to 
the  Portico  in  front,  and  building  Offices  and  Committee  Rooms 
within  its  area. 

We  were  met  in  the  main  entrance  by  one  of  the  attendants,  and 
courteously  I’eceived,  aud  shown  through  the  Building.  The  main 
Halls  are  finished,  and,  also,  the  Halls  of  the  two  Houses — the 
Assembly  and  Council — both  in  this  Colony,  Victoria,  elective,  and 
corresponding  to  our  House  of  Representatives  and  Senate.  They 
are  all  handsomely  finished — but  with  stucco,  not  with  marble — and 


244 


LETTER  NO.  IS. 


the  Chambers  are  neatly  appointed  and  furnished — with  benches  for 
the  members,  and  not  with  chairs  and  desks,  like  ours. 

In  the  main  Hall  stands  a White  Marble  figure  of  Queen  Victoria, 
taken  in  her  younger  days, 'and  showing  that  her  Majesty  has  not  yet 
been  dethroned  in  her  far-off  and  ambitious  Colony.  In  the  Library, 
hang,  on  one  column,  the  Engraved  Figure  of  George  Washington  ; 
on  another,  near  by,  a copy  of  the  Declaration  of  our  Independence, 
engrossed  on  Parchment — the  first  telling  the  History  of  Royal  Rule 
controlling  the  Colonies  from  its  birth  ; the  two  last  heralding  the 
time — perchance  not  far  distant — when  she  will  step  out  into  her 
place  among  the  Family  of  Nations.  Our  attendant  was  a young 
man,  and  we  spoke  of  these  things  with  caution : but  I gathered 
knowledge  whilst  we  talked. 

The  enclosure  embraces  an  area  set  with  grass  and  flowers,  and  a 
Tennis  Court,  where  the  members  may  exercise  themselves  in  their 
National  Game  and  get  rid  of  the  fumes  of  angry  disputation.  Not 
far  off,  and  upon  higher  ground,  stands  the  yet  unfinished  Roman 
Catholic  Cathedral,  and  in  full  view  from  my  window  whilst  I 
write,  built  of  a dark,  nearly  black,  stone,  and  promising  to  be, 
when  finished,  an  imposing  structure. 

We  then  walked  to  the  Law  Courts  Building,  some  distance  further, 
on  the  corner  of  Linsdale,  William  and  Little  Bourke  Streets — buy- 
ing as  we  went  along  a piece  for  the  Set,  and  trying  to  come  across 
a Curio  Shop,  where  I could  get  a Boomerang ; but  without  success. 
The  Law  Building  is  an  immense  quadrangular  affair,  enclosing  a sepa- 
rate Structure,  with  a conspicuous  Dome,  visible  far  out  on  the  water 
upon  approaching  the  City;  and  one  of  the  most  conspicuous  within 
this  contains  the  Library,  said  to  be  very  fine.  The  Quadrangular 
Edifice  embraces  the  various  Courts  and  Offices  and  Chambers  belong- 
ing to  the  administration  of  Justice,  and  no  Country  in  the  World 
has  made  a more  lavish  appropriation  for  that  Department  of  its 
Government. 

We  visited  one  of  the  Courts  in  Session.  One  of  the  Judges  was 
reading  an  Opinion  ; which  in  his  low  tones  I could  not  hear.  They 
were  all  clad  in  Black  Gown  and  White  Wig ; as  were  the  Lawyers 
who  occupied  the  Bar — a respectable-looking,  well-behaved  set  alto- 
gether. 

We  walked  thence  to  the  Public  Library  on  Swanston  Street — an 
imposing  Edifice,  with  Corinthian  Columns,  the  steps  guarded  on 


MELBOURNE. 


245 


either  side  by  Colossal  Bronze  Lions,  resting  quietly  with  their  heads 
between  their  paws,  with  more  of  dignity  than  fierceness.  A Bronze 
Figure  of  Sir  Edward  Barry,  once  a Judge,  adorns  the  pavement  in 
front.  In  the  same  Building  are  Picture  and  Art  Galleries,  all  of 
which  we  visited.  The  Library  seems  to  be  very  extensive ; the 
Picture  and  Art  Collections  contain  some  worthy  works.  But  I have 
not  time  to  stop  to  specify  them.  The  comment  upon  the  whole 
might  be,  that  a young  people  could  hardly  be  expected  to  have  that, 
which,  without  age,  can  scarce  be  said  to  exist. 

I received  a formal  notice,  a day  or  two  after  my  arrival,  of  my 
election  an  Honorary  Member  of  the  Australian  Club,  and  a tender 
of  its  privileges.  But  you  know  my  views  with  regal’d  to  the  accept- 
ance of  these  courtesies. 

Same  City  and  Hotel, 

Tuesday,  April  1,  1890. 

My  Friend  Campbell  had  to  prepare  to-day  for  his  long  voyage 
homeward,  via  the  Suez  Canal,  and  could  not  walk  with  me.  I went 
alone  : this  time  finishing  up  the  sights  of  Melbourne. 

I walked  down  Collins  to  Elizabeth  Street,  looking  in  the  Curio 
Shops,  of  which  there  seem  to  be  very  few  in  the  City,  for  a Boome- 
rang. Strange  to  say,  I could  not  find  one.  I want  it  as  the  most 
characteristic  thing  of  the  Aborigines  in  Australia.  They  are  thought 
to  be  the  lowest  of  all  Savage  Races  found  by  the  white  man  in  his 
World-around  Voyages;  yet  the  Boomerang,  his  invention,  is  one 
of  the  strangest  and  most  complex  in  its  scientific  construction  of  all 
weapons,  though  apparently  the  simplest — baffling  the  profoundest 
of  them  to  discover  by  what  composition  of  forces  it  is  made  to  per- 
form its  paradoxical  evolutions,  turning  with  curious  eccentricity  in 
the  air  and  falling  at  the  thrower’s  feet.  I hope  I will  come  across 
one  whilst  in  the  Country,  and  I will  take  it  home  with  me.  Nor 
have  I seen  a single  Native  on  the  streets.  Civilization'has  driven 
them  into  the  less  inhabited  areas.  There  they  can  pass  more  quietly 
out  of  this  weary  World. 

I also  stopped  in  at  Thomas  Cook  & Sous,  Tourist  Agents,  to 
inquire  with  regard  to  my  voyage  Westward,  when  I have  done  with 
Australia,  and  to  purchase  Tickets  for  some  short  Tours  around  Mel- 
bourne before  proceeding  Northward  to  Sydney.  I did  not  go  to  the 


246 


LETTER  NO.  12. 


Bank,  knowing  no  Vessel  had  come  from  San  Francisco  since  I 
reached  here. 

Then  taking  the  Cable  Tram  on  Elizabeth  Street,  the  same  which 
carried  us  the  other  day  to  the  Zoological  Gardens  in  the  Royal  Park, 
I visited  the  Cemetery  and  University  Grounds.  You  observe  them 
just  opposite  to  that  Park  on  the  Map  I sent  you — all  together  cov- 
ering an  area  of  many  acres.  Dismounting,  I walked  the  length  of 
Princes  Park,  bounding  the  Cemetery  on  the  West : only  set  with  a 
few  trees  and  grass,  and  then  entered  the  Cemetery  on  the  McPherson 
Street  front. 

In  my  walk  I met  with  a good-looking,  sensible  man  of  fifty  or 
sixty,  who,  in  our  talk,  I learned  was  an  Editor.  We  strolled  a good 
while  together,  talking  of  the  Colonies  and  their  future.  I did  not 
tell  him  who  I was,  but  expressed  freely  my  opinions.  He  thinks 
the  question  of  severance  from  the  Empire  only  one  of  time ; not  that 
he  wants  it,  but  that  the  forces  abroad  in  the  Land  will  compel  it — 
the  fruit  fast  ripening  for  the  fall ; the  young  native-born  Australian, 
with  more  enthusiasm  than  judgment,  talks  and  looks  for  Nation- 
ality ; and  much  more  upon  the  subject,  that  I have  not  time  to  put 
down.  Indeed  I can  put  but  a small  part  of  the  talks  I have  on 
these  pages.  I will  give  you  the  result  in  the  end. 

The  Cemetery  is  a comparatively  new  one,  yet  is  filling  fast ; 
another,  more  distant,  is  preparing.  The  City  is  crowding  around 
this,  and  soon  it  will  be  closed,  save  for  those  families  who  have 
Lots,  and  some  of  whose  members  already  rest  there.  Nothing  of 
much  import  is  here,  save  the  number  of  its  Dead.  Melbourne  has 
not  a good  reputation  for  health.  It  has  no  Sewer  System ; the 
drainage  is  purely  surface,  and  notifies  you  loudly  towards  the  Even- 
ing sometimes — hence  it  fills  its  graveyard  rapidly.  It  is  too  lai’ge 
for  me  to  gather  anything,  in  my  hurry,  with  regard  to  longevity 
in  the  City  from  the  Record.  I have  not  time ; but  I don’t  think 
the  Monuments  speak  in  any  great  volume  of  its  wealth.  There  are 
a few  handsome  ones — very  few  in  proportion  to  the  number;  a few 
striking ; one  especially,  the  Angel  of  Death — of  white  marble, 
colossal,  with  face  turned  down  upon  the  Grave  in  meditative  mood, 
and  wings  half  folded  in  mingled  firmness  and  sorrow — beautifully 
conceived  and  executed. 

Walking  on,  I passed  out  of  the  Cemetery  into  the  University  and 
College  Grounds — embracing,  together  with  the  University,  Queen’s, 


MELBOURNE. 


247 


Ormond,  Trinity  and  the  Roman  Catholic  Colleges ; the  Ormond  a 
recent  endowment  by  a wealthy  individual  of  that  name,  and  espe- 
cially striking.  There  is  a bond  of  unity  and  harmony  of  action 
between  them  and  the  University,  I hear : the  latter  finishing  ofP  the 
product  of  the  former.  Connected  with  the  University  is  the  National 
Museum,  an  admirable  Natural  History  Collection.  But  I had  only 
time  to  look  at — have  not  time  now  to  tell  you  anything  of  it. 

I met  a Clergyman  from  Scotland,  who  told  me  that  some,  maybe 
all,  of  these  Colleges  were  mixed,  Male  and  Female.  I told  him  I 
did  not  like  it.  He  expressed  surprise,  asking  if  I would  not  give 
women  the  benefit  of  High  Education.  I told  him  by  all  means,  but 
not  in  the  same  sphere.  Woman  was  intended  for  man’s  help-meet, 
not  his  comjietitor  or  rival.  Her’s  was  the  frailer  nature  physically, 
but  far  the  more  heroic  morally ; not  to  be  the  leader  of  armies  or  in 
statesmanship,  but  to  be  the  mother  and  educator  of  the  heroes  who 
were.  In  this  sphere  she  ever  had  been  and  could  be  all  powerful, 
and  had  instilled  the  aroma  of  her  gentle  yet  powerful  virtues  into 
every  fibre  of  the  framework  of  Society.  Taken  from  it  and  thrown 
among  those  she  had  thus  made  great,  she  would  destroy  their  hero- 
ism and  lose  her  own.  But  he  said,  would  not  I give  them  evexy 
chance  of  winning  a livelihood?  Not,  I said,  if  thereby  they  I’obbed 
the  stei'ner  sex  of  any  chance  for  theix’s.  Maxx’s  dxxty  is  to  take  care 
of  the  wife  and  mother  of  his  childx’en,  whilst  she  is  fitting  them  for 
the  stex'n  and  lofty  duties  of  Life’s  noblest  works.  Man’s  sphere,  if 
invaded  by  her,  would  not  only  prevent  this,  but  would  lower  man’s 
dignity  of  chai’actex’,  whilst  it  equally  destroyed  her  own.  Our  Civili- 
zation is  too  Material  anyhow  ,*  let  us  preserve  all  of  the  heroic  in  it 
that  we  can.  To  this  my  friend  coxxld  make  no  answer.  Who  can? 

I had  made  engagements  to  take  an  Excursion  iixto  the  Country 
for  a day  or  two.  But  I learned  that  the  Banks  would  be  closed  on 
Friday,  Saturday,  Monday,  and  Tuesday — Easter  Holidays — and  I 
was  compelled  to  postpone  it,  that  I might  to-moxTOw  go  to  xniue  and 
inquire  for  xxxail  and  dx’aw  some  xnoney.  Thus,  you  see,  I lose  another 
day,  uxxexpectedly. 

Same  City  and  Hotei., 

Wednesday,  April  2,  1890. 

No  Letters  or  Papers  for  me  in  Bank.  I hardly  expected  any. 
Only  oixce  a month  can  they  reach  me.  My  Schedule  of  the  Steamer’s 


248 


LETTER  NO.  13. 


Run  makes  April  3,  to-morrow,  the  date  of  her  arrival  in  Sydney. 
But  whilst  they  will  reach  here  on  the  fifth  or  sixth,  the  Bank  will 
be  closed,  and  they  will  have  to  re-traverse  their  steps,  and  follow 
me  back  to  Sydney.  I left  a memorandum  to  thus  forward  them  on 
their  arrival  here. 

I drew,  also,  the  money  I shall  need. 

I have  run  through  the  bundle  of  Newspapers  you  sent.  Of 
Governor  McKinney’s  Message  on  the  State  Debt,  I have  nothing 
to  say. 

I read  Ingalls’  speech  in  the  Senate  on  the  Negro  Question.  An- 
other “Fire  Bell  in  the  dead  hour  of  the  night.”  How  like  the  ante 
bellum  tirades  it  sounds,  full  of  shallowness  and  hate — intensified  by 
the  castigation  Blackburn  gave  him.  But  he  differs  in  this  from  the 
haters  of  that  day  : they  were  ignorant  of  the  Negro,  and  thought  in 
some  instances,  honestly,  that  he  could  be  lifted  up  by  Education  into 
equality  and  citizenship.  Ingalls  professes  to  understand  him  and  the 
profound  issues  of  the  Race  Question,  pronouncing  his  ineradicable 
difference  from  the  white  man  and  the  impossibility  of  their  mixing, 
without  the  production  of  a monster;  yet  in  the  same  breath  insists 
that  the  impossible  shall  be  done,  and  the  ruin  consummated,  because 
an  amendment  to  the  Constitution  requires  it.  Fiat  malum,  ruat 
coelum.  No  more  shallow,  wicked  utterance  was  ever  made  upon  the 
floor  of  our  Congress ; it  far  surpasses  in  frightful  import  anything 
that  ever  proceeded  from  the  fiercest  enemy  of  the  South  before  the 
War ; and  the  applause  he  received,  forecasts  trouble  unspeakable, 
unless  wiser  counsels  prevail,  than  he  is  either  able  or  willing  to 
advise.  Who  can  foretell  the  dangers  which  threaten  our  future? 
The  Confederate  War  will  wane  into  nothingness  before  the  monstrous 
issues  of  that  strife,  should  a battle  be  joined. 

IjAkes’  Entrance,  Gippsland,  Victoria, 

Merrangbaur  or  Roadknight’s  Hotel, 

Thursday,  4^pril  3,  1890. 

I am  sure  you  have  not  the  slightest  idea  where  I am,  and  must, 
therefore,  tell  you. 

Southeast  of  Melbourne  lies  Gippsland — the  G pronounced  hard, 
as  in  Gibson.  It  is  famous  for  its  I^ake  Scenery,  and  I resolved  to 
spend  a day  or  two  in  visiting  it.  Not  expecting  to  be  gone  long,  I 


MELBOURNE  TO  GIPPSLAND. 


249 


retained  my  Room  at  the  Grand  Hotel,  leaving  my  Trunk  there.  I 
bade  my  late  companion,  Campbell,  Good  Bye ! — he  leaving  to-day 
for  England  in  a Peninsular  and  Oriental  Steamer  via  Ceylon  and 
the  Suez  Canal;  and  thus  I am  travelling  alone  again. 

I was  up  early,  had  my  Breakfast,  and  at  ten  minutes  of  eight 
boarded  the  Gippsland  train  at  the  Princes  Street  Station.  This  is 
the  same  Station  I told  you  of  on  our  stroll  to  the  Botanic  Gai’dens. 

The  run  is  almost  due  East  to  Sale,  one  hundred  and  thirty-seven 
miles.  The  Country  rises  from  Melbourne,  at  one  point  attaining  an 
elevation,  just  before  reaching  Sale,  of  four  hundred  and  forty-four 
feet ; though  it  rises  and  falls  the  whole  distance — at  Sale  being  only 
thirty-two  feet.  The  City  suburbs  extend  for  some  miles,  built  up 
quite  solidly  in  some  places,  and  then  scattered  houses,  showing  the 
proximity  of  a great  centre  of  population.  For  more  than  fifty  miles 
areas  had  been  cleared  of  forests  and  habitations  of  greater  or  less 
import,  sometimes  with  small  lots  enclosed,  but  with  scant  evidence 
of  cultivation  anywhere.  Most  of  the  land  was  in  grass,  but  poor 
pasturage — the  Cattle  looking  poorly  as  the  Land.  The  latter  half 
of  our  journey  was  principally  in  forests — here  you  know  called 
Bush,  but  mainly  of  the  Eucalyptus  Species,  and  not  good  for  build- 
ing Lumber;  or  of  dead  trees  standing  stai’k,  without  leaves  or  bark, 
not  an  attractive  scene.  The  fields,  however,  were  enclosed  with 
good  fencing : post  and  rail,  mortised,  generally  with  three  rails, 
wire  between.  Here  and  there  were  a few  short  reaches  of  Hawthorn 
Hedge.  There  were  a good  many  towns  and  villages,  but  what  sup- 
ported them  I am  at  a loss  to  say ; for  the  whole  country  was  poor 
and  poorly  cultivated ; maybe  built  under  the  hope  of  a prospective 
Boom,  which  fever — destructive  and  infectious — prevails  here  too. 

I sat  next  an  old  man,  with  whom  I had  much  talk.  He  came 
here  many  years  ago,  and  was  at  one  time  a Locomotive  Driver,  and 
is  now  a Machinist  in  the  Shops  of  this  Company,  on  his  way  to  a 
town  called  Warragul,  where  he  had  built  a Cottage  for  his  four 
Daughters  ; and  when  he  stopped  to  get  off,  pointed  it  out  to  me  with 
much  pride.  He  was  well  dressed  and  behaved,  and  altogether  a 
worthy,  sensible  man ; and  I gathered  much  information  from  him 
about  Melbourne,  Victoria,  and  Australia,  in  not  a few  portions  of 
which  he  had  lived  during  his  residence  in  the  Antipodes. 

The  Cars  were  crowded,  and  a long  train.  The  Station  at  the  hour 
of  departure  was  quite  a spectacle — the  trains  coming  and  going,  and 


250 


LETTER  NO.  13. 


the  throngs  rushing  hither  and  thither,  though  the  Easter  Holidays 
do  not  begin  till  to-morrow.  Wherever  I have  been  in  Australasia 
you  have  observed  how  crowds  prevail,  upon  all  the  conveyances, 
whether  by  land  or  water. 

On  our  arrival  at  Sale,  Coaches  conveyed  us  to  the  small  Steamer, 
a mile,  probably,  distant,  on  the  Latrobe  River,  a narrow  stream  of 
about  the  import  of  the  Yarra,  which  I have  spoken  of  as  flowing 
through  Melbourne.  An  eleven  miles  run  brought  us  to  Lake  Wel- 
lington; likewise  eleven  miles  across;  then  into  the  McClennan 
River,  similar  to  the  Latrobe,  ten  miles;  then  Lake  Victoria,  nine- 
teen miles ; then  Black  Lake,  eight  miles ; and  then  eleven  to  the 
Lakes’  Entrance,  where,  by  a narrow  Strait,  they  and  the  Ocean  join 
their  waters — a total  of  seventy  miles  from  Sale. 

The  region  through  which  we  passed,  along  the  Rivers  and  across 
the  Lakes,  was  interesting,  not  from  any  special  beauty  or  grandeur, 
but  rather  from  the  uncultivated  and  wild  rusticity  of  the  whole 
scene.  The  Bush  has  not  yet  been  cut  away  or  the  Marshes  drained, 
and  Birds  abounded,  especially  the  Marsh  Hen — rather  smaller  than 
one  of  your  Game  Chickens,  with  brilliant  blue-black  plumage,  long 
legs  and  red  bill,  said  to  be  flue  eating ; and  scores  of  Black  Swans, 
either  floating  on  the  Lakes  or  ploughing  their  way  through  the  air, 
marshalled  in  long  file. 

The  point  where  our  Steamer  landed  is  called  Lakes’  Entrance 
because,  as  I have  said,  hei’e  the  Lakes  join  their  waters  to  the  Ocean 
through  a narrow  Inlet.  There  are  several  Hotels  around.  I took 
the  Coach  to  this,  haj)-hazard,  distant  a mile  or  thereabouts.  I found 
I had  not  made  a mistake.  I had  a good  Supper  and  Bed,  and  the 
site  is  a fine  one. 

The  morning  promised  badly  ; clouds  overspread  the  sky,  but  they 
disappeared  during  the  day,  and  it  was  all  one  could  wish — when  the 
Sun  went  down,  the  almost  full  Moon  lighting  us  in  the  end.  From 
the  Hotel,  on  an  elevation,  the  Ocean  roared  hoarsely  upon  the  beach, 
and  from  its  broad  bosom  threw  back  the  Moon’s  rays  with  silver 
sheen.  Merrangbaur  means,  in  the  native  tongue.  Lyre  Bird,  and 
the  Hotel  is  thus  called  because,  when  it  was  built  years  ago  by  the 
Proprietor’s  Father,  an  old  man  still  living,  that  beautiful  creature 
inhabited  the  locality.  The  advent  of  Civilization  has  driven  it 
farther  into  the  wild. 


GIPPSLAND. 


251 


Same  Place  and  Hotel, 

Friday,  April  4,  1890. 

I intended  to  have  returned  to  Melbourne  to-day  by  a different 
route  over  part  of  the  journey,  but  upon  looking  out  of  my  window 
over  the  open  Sea,  and  then  getting  up  and  seeing  the  charming 
weather  that  greeted  me,  I determined  to  remain  over  till  to-moiTOw 
and  enjoy  the  quiet  and  pure  air — more  pleasant  and  healthful  than 
that  of  Melbourne.  The  Hotel,  too,  is  neat  and  the  service  good. 

I am  not  sorry  I remained.  I have  had  many  agreeable  and  prof- 
itable talks  with  the  guests.  I have  wandered  through  the  Bush  and 
noticed  the  Vegetation,  composed  of  few  species — the  Fern,  the  Tea 
Tree,  and  various  kinds  of  the  Eucalypti  and  the  Wattle,  and 
observed  the  Birds  and  their  plumage  and  songs,  of  numerous  sizes 
and  varieties.  I sat  upon  the  Portico  of  the  Hotel,  or  upon  the  grass 
in  front,  and  watched  the  Ocean  and  the  Sky — both  equally  blue  and 
equally  calm  ; the  former  without  a billow,  the  latter  without  a cloud. 
Along  the  front,  bordered  by  the  Surf,  is  a portion — some  miles  of  a 
Beach  extending  for  more  than  ninety,  broken  by  the  narrow  rift 
which  unites  the  waters  of  the  Lakes  and  the  Ocean.  The  air  was 
full  of  tonic,  and  it  was  a luxiu’y  to  breathe  it.  And  here  I ought 
to  say  that  if  the  perfect  weather  I have  enjoyed  since  I have  been  in 
Australia  be  any  evidence  of  its  climate,  I have  chosen  the  proper 
season  for  my  visit.  Nothing  has  occurred  in  it  to  impede  my  travel 
for  a day ; and  though  Melbourne  in  her  Summer  time  afflicts  her 
people  with  torrid  heat,  I have  not  felt  it  in  this  her  first  months  of 
Autumn.  The  Centre  of  Australia,  heated  by  the  Tropic  fires,  sends 
down  upon  Victoria  blasts  as  from  a furnace,  and  the  thermometer 
rising  to  often  many  degrees  over  one  hundred  in  the  shade,  the 
people  for  days  suffer  to  suffocation.  But  now  that  the  Sun  has  gone 
to  you  beyond  the  Line,  the  weather  is  delicious.  I have  been  for- 
tunate, you  remember,  in  all  my  Tours,  to  fit  them  to  the  Seasons  of 
the  climes  I visit. 

Anxious  to  see  the  Natives  of  Australia,  none  of  whom  I have 
yet  come  across,  I have  determined  to  stay  another  day.  There  is  a 
Missionary  Station  at  Nowa  Nowa  on  Lake  Tyers,  another  body  of 
water  similar  to  those  I have  written  of,  six  or  seven  miles  to  the 
East,  and  belonging  to  the  Line  of  the  Gippsland  Lakes,  thus  singu- 


252 


LETTER  NO.  13. 


larly  ranged  along  the  Ocean’s  Shore.  The  Proprietor  says  he  will 
send  me  in  a conveyance  to  the  Lake,  which  I can  cross  in  a Row 
Boat  to  the  Station,  where  he  knows  I will  meet  with  the  Missionary 
in  charge — Mr.  Bulmer — a genial,  kindly  man,  who  will  take  great 
pleasure  in  showing  me  the  Natives  collected  there — called  the  Blacks 
in  the  nomenclature  of  the  Country — and  his  work  among  them. 
This  is  an  opportunity  I must  not  lose ; I may  not  have  such  another 
during  my  travels  in  Australia,  and  it  would  not  do  to  come  here 
and  not  see  descendants  of  the  Aborigines,  by  common  consent, 
the  lowest  of  the  Human  Species,  who  have  been  yet  found  by 
travellers  upon  the  face  of  the  Earth. 

Same  Place  and  Hotel, 

. Saturday,  Api’il  5,  1890. 

This  has  been  to  me  the  most  interesting  day  I have  spent  in  Aus- 
tralia— visiting  the  Missionary  Station  for  the  Aborigines,  established 
at  Nowa  Nowa,  on  Lake  Tyers.  The  day,  too,  has  been  beautiful 
and  bright. 

I was  not  alone;  my  going  induced  others.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Ash- 
burner,  with  whom  I met  here  and  have  had  much  talk,  went  with 
me,  though  they  had  been  there  before.  He  is  a highly  respectable 
and  apparently  thrifty  Ironmonger  from  Melbourne:  came  to  the 
Colony  from  Liverpool  in  his  early  days,  and  has  grown  up  with  it. 
Three  young  Gentlemen  and  two  young  Ladies,  also,  went,  whose 
names  I do  not  know.  The  Landlady  fixed  up  a nice  Lunch  for  the 
day’s  outing ; and  we  started  in  a Coach  at  ten  o’clock. 

The  ride  to  Lake  Tyers  is  about  six  miles,  through  the  Forest, 
or  Bush,  standing  almost  in  its  primitive  state.  Mr.  Ashburner, 
familiar  with  the  trees,  called  my  attention  to  them  and  gave  me 
their  varieties  and  names.  The  bulk  of  them  were  species  of  the 
Eucalyptus — of  which  there  are  great  numbers — the  Iron  Bark  and 
the  Stringy  Bark  being  two  of  them.  Besides  the  Eucalyptus,  there 
is  the  Wattle,  the  bark  used  for  tanning ; the  Tea  Tree,  and  the 
native  Cherry  Tree,  whose  strange  fruit  bears  its  stone  upon  the 
outside — ^just  as  many  of  those  I have  mentioned  shed  their  bark 
instead  of  their  leaves,  in  true  Australian-Antipodean  Style.  This 
Cherry  Tree  is  nothing  whatever  similar  to  ours.  It  is  a comely, 
well-shaped  piece  of  vegetation,  with  foliage  much  like  the  Cedar, 


LAKE  TYERS— ABORIGINES. 


253 


but  of  a more  lace-like,  finer  texture.  Mr.  Ashburner  says  the  fruit 
is  rather  larger  than  a pea, — green  when  immature.  Cherry-red  when 
ripe,  and  of  excellent  taste  and  flavor. 

Dismounting  at  the  Lake,  the  young  men  rowed  themselves  across 
in  one  Boat,  tlie  Driver  rowed  the  rest  of  ns  across  in  another.  The 
Lake  occupies  a similar  position  to  the  Ocean  as  the  other  Lakes  of 
the  chain,  sepai’ated  by  a portion  of  the  ninety  mile  Reach.  This  is 
silted  up  now,  and  the  broad  Ocean  is  visible  over  the  Beach  now 
forming  here,  a bar  withont  an  outlet ; which,  confining  the  Lake, 
gives  it  the  mossy  appearance  in  many  places  of  stagnant  water.  But 
the  capricious  Sea,  now  and  then,  sweeps  an  opening  through  the  Bar 
and  puts  things  right  again.  The  Shores  rise  from  the  Lake,  covered 
with  primeval  forests,  save  where  the  Missionary  Station  stands, 
which  is  set  in  grass  and  the  houses  ranged  around  a quadrangle, 
and  mainly  hid  among  planted  trees,  the  little  Church  Spire,  lifting 
itself,  on  higher  ground,  above  them — altogether  a pretty  scene. 

The  row  was  a mile  or  two,  but  soon  made  by  our  sturdy  Boat- 
man. We  walked  up  to  the  Station,  probably  half  a mile  from  the 
Landing.  The  houses  enclosing  the  quadi’angle  were  simple,  bnt 
comfortable  frame  one-story  Buildings  with  Porch  in  front,  facing 
each  other  several  hundred  yards  apart ; the  lower  side  open,  the 
upper  side  occupied  by  the  one-story,  but  larger  Cottage  of  the  Mis- 
sionary; and  with  its  Vines,  and  Foliage,  and  Flowers  presenting 
quite  an  English  rustic  look.  On  its  left,  stood  the  Church  and 
School  House,  in  good  repair. 

Lounging  about,  w'ere  men,  wmmen,  and  children — well  dressed, 
but  worthless-looking  in  the  extreme.  Some  were  coal  black,  some 
rather  lighter,  some  nearly  white,  the  half-breeds.  Several  of  them 
were  typical  specimens  ; Charley,  a full-bred  Australian,  was  an  im- 
portant character.  He  was  probably  forty  years  old,  about  five  feet 
six,  and  slender,  his  hair  jet-black  and  straight  and  thick,  growing 
almost  to  his  equally  thick  and  jet-black  brows,  which  hung  over  his 
deep-set  eyes.  His  face  was  covered  with  a heavy  black  beard. 
Notwithstanding  all  this  blackness,  he  had  an  amiable  look  and 
bearing,  and  spoke  English  very  well.  An  old  woman  crossed  the 
quadrangle  ; he  spoke  to  her ; in  response,  she  mumbled  something 
we  could  not  understand,  and  hustled  on — a filthy,  ugly,  repulsive 
object.  Off  from  the  Quadrangle,  in  a recess  of  the  Enclosure,  we 
saw  a blanket  sti'etched  over  a ridge  pole;  and  on  going  to  it,  we 


254 


LETTER  NO.  IS. 


found  another  old  woman,  much  similar  in  look  to  the  one  of  which 
I have  spoken,  occupying  the  opening  and  quite  filling  up  the  space 
the  narrow  blanket  covered.  In  front  of  her  was  a pile  of  live  coals, 
on  which  she  was  broiling  a chunk  of  meat.  She  mumbled  some- 
thing we  could  not  understand,  in  response  to  our  salutation,  and 
continued  her  attention  to  her  meat.  Under  a ti’ee  in  front,  a few 
feet  away,  was  a half-breed  woman,  very  light,  nursing  a little  boy, 
still  lighter,  who  had  sprained  his  ankle.  They  were  in  appearance 
and  manner  an  improvement  on  the  old  woman ; but  at  best,  feeble 
and  worthless.  I gave  the  boy  some  money ; for  which  his  Mother 
ordered  him  to  thank  me. 

By  this  time  our  Coachman  came  and  told  us  the  Missionary  was 
working  in  his  Garden  behind  his  Residence,  and  we  would  find  him 
there.  We  went,  and  seeing  us  coming,  he  advanced  to  meet  us,  and 
gave  us  a cordial  welcome.  I went  ahead  of  the  others  and,  greeting, 
told  him  who  I was,  and  he  expressed  great  pleasure  in  seeing  me, 
saying  he  knew  me  by  reputation,  being  a great  reader  of  American 
Magazines  and  Papers.  He  attached  himself  to  me,  and  we  talked 
during  our  whole  stay.  He  had  read  the  History  of  our  Confederate 
War,  and  knew  all  the  prominent  men  on  both  sides,  like  my  Cap- 
tain friend  of  the  San  Bias  from  Panama  to  San  Fi-ancisco,  and  the 
main  Battles  and  their  result,  and  had  a great  admiration  for  our 
Southern  Chieftains  and  People.  You  may  infer,  our  talk  was 
pleasant  to  me.  He  took  United  States  Magazines  and  Papers,  as 
he  had  said,  and  had  read  the  War  Papers  which  have  been  publish- 
ing in  them  for  some  years.  I have  met  nobody  abroad  who  had  a 
more  thorough  knowledge  of  the  status  of  our  affairs. 

But  of  more  interest  still  was  his  talk  about  his  Wards — the  Aus- 
tralian Aborigines.  He  was  a sensible  man,  and  had  studied  their 
Race  characteristics  thoroughly  ; and  freely  said  that  their  elevation 
was  impossible ; they  could  not  take  on  the  thoughts  and  modes  of 
our  Civilization,  nor  the  virtues  of  our  Religion ; their  Brain  and 
Moral  powers  were  too  feeble  for  the  one  or  the  other.  The  Mission 
is  of  the  Established  Church  of  England,  aided  by  Governmental 
contribution  from  the  Colonies.  All  efforts  to  inflict  learning  upon 
them  was  futile ; it  crushed  out  both  their  spirit  and  their  life.  His 
long  intercourse  with  these  people,  now  nearly  thirty  years,  had  taught 
him  the  problem,  with  regard  to  which  it  seems  no  one  can  be  in- 
formed without  living  among  Races  or  making  the  subject  of  Eth- 


ABORIGINES— THE  BOOMERANG. 


255 


nology  a study — that  God  made  Race  Lines,  which  cannot  be  elimi- 
nated by  man’s  ignorance  or  device.  He  understands  perfectly  our 
own  Race  Problem,  and  its  tremendous  import,  and  profoundly  sym- 
pathizes with  us  in  its  solution,  knowing  full  well  that  ignorance  of 
its  Philosophy  is  equally  dangerous  with  malice  in  its  management. 
He  says  he  has  many  visitors,  men  and  women  of  culture  and  learning, 
who  talk  all  sorts  of  nonsense  about  lifting  up  these  poor  degraded 
creatures,  who  have  to  be  re-made  before  they  can  be  reformed. 
Bishops,  and  Doctors  of  Divinity,  and  Politicians,  and  eminent 
Lawyers,  talk  what  seems  to  him  childish  inanity  about  the  elevation 
of  these  Aborigines,  because  they  do  not  know  anything  about  the 
difference — fundamental  and  radical — between  the  Savage  and  the 
Civilized  man  ; between  the  rudimentary  and  the  developed  organ- 
ism. He  said  my  talk  afforded  him  infinite  pleasure,  seeing  that  my 
thoughts  had  been  turned  into  channels  along  which  his  had  worked 
for  more  than  thirty  years,  and  the  want  of  knowledge  of  which  had, 
under  the  guise  of  Philanthropy,  filled  the  world  with  misery  and 
crime,  and  he  feared,  had  not  yet  finished  its  hideous  career. 

I told  him  I wanted  to  see  more  of  his  people,  and  especially  to 
see  one  of  them  throw  the  Boomerang.  He  cheerfully  said  he  would 
call  them  out  and  have  one  of  the  old  men  perform  the  feat  for  me; 
the  younger  ones  appeared  to  have  lost  the  art.  An  old  thoroughbred 
Native,  called  Billy,  ugly  like  his  brothers  and  sistei’s  of  the  full 
blood,  came  with  a newly  made  Boomerang — a piece  of  flat  wood 
with  sharpened  edges,  curved  at  an  angle  of  about  forty-five 
degrees,  which  he  had  just  finished,  and  with  an  easy  yet  forceful 
swing  of  the  hand,  and  with  an  upward  dash,  sent  the  thing  whirling 
through  the  air,  accelei’atiug  its  speed  with  its  progress,  until  reaching 
an  elevation  of  several  hundred  feet,  it  halted  like  a bird  in  its  flight, 
and  fluttering  hesitatingly,  turned  upon  its  track,  and  coming  back 
with  almost  equal  velocity,  fell  at  the  thrower’s  feet.  It  was  a bril- 
liant performance  by  the  crooked  stick,  in  the  combined  mystery  of 
force  and  motion.  I bought  it  from  the  black  Scientist,  and  will 
take  it  home  to  put  among  our  curiosities  of  Travel. 

The  admiration  and  wonder  we  expressed  did  not  have  the  slightest 
effect  upon  the  Native ; the  nil  admirari  was  fully  developed  in  him 
as  in  our  American  Indian.  He  took  the  money  and  walked  quietly 
away,  and  we  never  saw  any  more  of  him,  though  I told  him  I 
wanted  also  a Throwing  Stick,  for  which  I would  pay.  This  instru- 


256 


LETTER  NO.  IS. 


ment  is  likewise  peculiar  to  the  Australian  Native,  being  simply  a 
straight  stick  with  which,  by  a notch  in  the  end,  they  use  its  leverage 
for  projecting  their  Spear  with  greater  velocity  and  momentum. 
Billy  had  not  energy  enough  to  get  me  one.  Charley  overtook  me 
on  the  walk  to  the  Boat  with  one,  which  I will  take  home  with  the 
Boomerang.  These  are  the  only  things  peculiar  to  these  miserably 
low  and  undeveloped  people  : and  yet  strangely  peculiar. 

Our  Friend  walked  with  us  to  the  Boat,  and  we  bade  him  Good 
Bye  ! with  many  thanks  for  his  courtesy  and  kindness,  which  had 
rendered  our  visit  both  pleasant  and  profitable.  I gave  him  an  invi- 
tation to  come  and  see  me  should  he  ever  visit  the  United  States. 
He  is  a genial,  kindly  man,  and  I think  well  fitted  for  his  place,  in 
taking  care  of  these  people,  bound  in  the  irreversible  bonds  of  a fate 
which,  for  their  blessing,  he  happily  understands — and  perchance,  for 
the  white  man,  too. 

We  rowed  back  to  the  hither  side  of  the  Lake,  and  with  improvised 
seats  and  tables  from  logs  and  old  boards,  enjoyed  the  Lunch  the 
Landlady  had  prepared  for  ns — boiling  our  Tea  at  a neighboring 
house. 

Resting  here  for  a while,  we  drove  back  in  the  cool  of  the  Even- 
ing through  the  Forest.  This  morning,  the  Bell-Birds  filled  the 
Woods  near  the  house  with  a chorus  of  chimes.  This  afternoon  hun- 
dreds of  them  thronged  the  trees,  and  gave  us  the  benefit  of  their 
music,  which  I never  appreciated  fully  before.  You  remember,  I 
made  their  acquaintance  at  Mount  Cook ; but  there  the  Forests  were 
smaller  and  their  number  less.  Now,  their  notes,  echoing  seemingly 
from  myriad  voices,  and  sounding  not  unlike  the  tinkling  of  tiny 
Bells,  made  it  no  wonder,  that  the  early  Navigators,  hearing  them 
across  the  water,  gave  them  the  mellifluous  name  they  now  bear. 

The  Proprietor  tells  me  the  lovely  Lyre  Bird  lives  in  hollows  of 
the  Mountains  near  by;  and  the  Laughing  Jackass  Bird.  Last  night, 
the  young  men  killed  a Bandicoot,  a curious  creature,  about  treble 
the  size  of  a Norway  Bat,  with  a head  the  blended  likeness  of  a Pig 
and  an  Anteater,  its  snout  extending  far  beyond  its  lower  jaw, — the 
tail  of  a Rat,  the  pouch  and  feet  of  a Kangaroo.  A number  of 
Wallabys  appeared  upon  the  Lawn  about  the  House  last  night — it  is 
a miniature  Kangaroo — and  three  or  four  flying  Foxes  or  Vampires 
were  killed.  I told  you  about  them  when  in  Java : the  head  of  a 
Fox  and  the  leather  wings  of  a Bat — several  feet  across — an  ugly 


BAIRNSDALE. 


257 


monster — the  Landlady  says  most  pestiferous  in  her  Orchard,  eating 
and  knocking  down  her  fruit ; she  had  rather  see  his  dead  body  than 
his  living  on  the  wing,  when  night  falls. 

You  see,  I am  in  the  region  of  sweet  and  beautiful,  or  ugly  and 
curious  things. 

Bairnsdale,  Gippslakd, 

The  Gleb  Hotel, 

Sunday,  April  6,  1890. 

Some  of  the  young  men  at  the  Merraugbaur  Hotel,  together  with 
some  from  another  in  the  vicinity,  chartered  a small  Steamer  this 
morning  and  went  out  through  Lakes  Entrance  to  the  Sea,  and  had 
a fishing  bout.  We  could  see  them  in  their  progress  from  our  high 
position — both  going  out  and  coming  in. 

I spent  the  Sunday  Morning  quietly  enjoying  the  air  and  scene, 
and  talking  to  the  people  gathered  at  the  Hotel.  Looking  at  and 
commenting  on  my  Boomerang,  I told  some  Englishmen  that,  should 
we  ever  engage  in  War  with  Great  Britain  again,  we  would  invent 
a Boomerang  propelled  by  Steam  or  Electricity,  and  shoot  them  in 
the  rear.  If  that  did  not  finish  them,  we  would  jetty  the  Gulf  Stream 
and  freeze  them  out ; that  we  were  quite  impatient  anyhow  at  their 
ingratitude  : we  had  for  generations  collected  the  hot  Equatorial 
Waters  in  our  Gulf  of  Mexico,  and  sent  them  across  the  World  and 
made  their  Islands  fit  to  be  inhabited,  and  they  had  never  passed  a 
Resolution  of  Thanks,  nor  even  alluded  in  their  National  Councils 
to  the  everlasting  debt  they  owed  us  for  our  benefaction.  I talked 
with  them,  too,  old  and  young,  about  Australian  matters,  gathering 
knowledge. 

After  Lunch,  one  o’clock,  the  Proprietor  sent  me  by  Carriage  to 
the  Lake,  and  thence  across  in  a Row  Boat  to  the  Steamer  bound  to 
Bairnsdale.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Ashbnrner  and  the  two  young  Ladies 
who  were  with  us  at  the  Mission,  and  a young  man  and  his  wife,  the 
former  of  whom  was  from  New  York,  but  whose  name  I have  for- 
gotten, went  with  me  to  the  Steamer  to  see  me  off  and  wish  me  a good 
voyage,  which  was  very  considerate. 

My  route  back  to  Melbourne  was  ditferent  from  that  in  coming.  I 
passed  into  Lake  King  and  thence  up  the  Mitchell  River,  on  which 
Bairnsdale  is  located,  almost  due  North  instead  of  West,  the  way  I 
came — a distance  from  Lakes  Entrance  of  twenty-eight  miles.  Lake 
17 


258 


LETTER  NO.  IS. 


King,  also,  and  Mitchell  River,  are  more  interesting  than  the  Lakes 
and  Rivers  I traversed  the  other  day.  Lake  King,  ten  miles  across, 
is  more  attractive  by  virtue  of  its  higher  shores  and  more  numerous 
habitations.  Mitchell  River,  more  curious  than  the  Latrobe  and  the 
McClennan,  flowing  in  a narrow  channel,  its  banks  made  in  years  by 
the  River  itself  right  out  for  some  miles  into  the  Lake,  and  seeming 
to  flow  above  its  waters,  as  the  Mississippi  flows  between  its  Levees 
above  the  country  it  traverses.  There  were  some  handsome  residences 
when  we  came  near  Bairnsdale,  and  numerous  Hop  Gardens  and  their 
Curing  Houses,  and  the  Country  and  people  looked  well-to-do. 

In  coming  to  the  Landing  in  our  Carriage,  we  met  our  friends 
returning  from  their  Ocean  sport,  laden  with  their  spoils.  They  had 
caught  many  fish  of  the  Snapper  species,  a famous  one  for  the  table. 
Two  of  them  were  trudging  along  with  four  or  five  on  a pole  between 
them — a heavy  load — and  jubilant  as  Joshua’s  men  bearing  the  Grape 
trophies  from  the  Promised  Land. 

My  friends  parted  from  me  at  the  Steamer  with  many  kind  words 
for  good  fortune  on  my  Tour,  and  I was  alone  again. 

The  Steamer  reached  Bairnsdale  at  six  o’clock,  and  I found  at  the 
Club  Hotel  a Room  awaiting  me — telephoned  for  by  my  Proprietor, 
Mr.  Roadknight — and  I took  a cup  of  Tea  and  a slice  of  Bread,  and 
was  soon  thereafter  fast  asleep. 

At  a place  of  Resort  called  Scarborough,  on  Lake  King,  I saw 
three  more  Aborigines,  men  past  middle  life,  with  the  same  shocks 
of  hair  and  heavy  beards,  turned  gray,  and  the  same  worthless  crea- 
tures, like  their  compatriots  of  whom  I have  spoken.  I asked  one 
of  them  why  they  did  not  make  Boomerangs  and  Throwing  Sticks 
to  sell.  He  said  he  had  been  thinking  of  making  one  for  a long 
time. 

Melbourne,  Grand  Hotel, 

Monday,  April  7,  1890. 

Here  I am  back  in  Melbourne  again,  and  in  the  Room,  and  at  the 
Table  and  Window  from  which  I have  written  you  many  of  the 
pages  of  this  long  Letter.  My  few  days’  jaunt  was  all  I could  desire, 
and  I trust  its  story  has  not  been  entirely  without  interest  to  you. 

I made  an  early  start  from  Bairnsdale.  By  six  o’clock  was  at  the 
Station  and  under  Steam  by  Rail  to  this  City,  distant  one  hundred 
and  seventy-one  miles.  We  reached  here  at  one  p.  m. 


3IELB0URNE  TO  BALLARAT. 


259 


The  Country  is  the  same  I had  already  traversed  from  Melbourne 
to  Sale  on  the  same  Road,  in  going  out,  for  one  hundred  and  twenty- 
seven  miles,  and  therefore  I will  make  no  comment.  I thought  that 
from  Bairnsdale  to  Sale  better  and  better  cultivated ; though  much 
of  it,  also,  either  in  Grove  Forests  or  their  skeleton  dead  trees. 

On  the  Journey  I talked  with  my  fellow  travellers  in  the  same 
compartment — especially  two  of  them — one  from  Melbourne  and  the 
other  from  Sydney ; each  of  whom  eulogized  his  own  City.  The 
same  rivalry  exists  that  once  prevailed  between  Chicago  and  St.  Louis, 
and  Kansas  City  and  St.  Joe — neither  admitting  that  the  one  bears 
any  comparison  with  the  other. 

Same  City  and  Hotel, 

Tuesday,  April  8,  1890. 

This  day  I devoted  to  running  up  to  Ballarat  and  back.  I went 
direct,  seventy-four  miles,  being  on  the  through  Railway  to  Adelaide, 
slightly  Northwest.  I returned  by  Geelong,  a Town  you  will  find 
on  the  West  Coast  of  Port  Philip.  I left  Melbourne  at  seven  o’clock 
in  the  morning,  reaching  Ballarat  at  half-past  ten. 

As  usual,  I fell  in  with  people  on  the  Train,  with  whom  I talked 
and  gathered  much  information  about  the  Country,  the  people  and 
their  opinions.  One  old  English  gentleman,  who  has  been  in  the 
Colony  many  years,  was  especially  agreeable  and  communicative, 
calling  my  attention  to  objects  on  the  way  and  keeping  me  advised. 

The  suburbs  of  Melbourne  do  not  appear  to  sweep  with  the  same 
import.  Northward,  that  they  do  Eastward  on  the  Gippsland  Route. 
We  sooner  passed  beyond  the  City  limits  and  reached  the  Rural  dis- 
trict. For  many  miles  the  Country  was  a great  ascending  plain — 
apparently  poor  soil,  set  in  grass,  with  little  or  no  cultivation,  and 
devoted  to  pasturage ; the  fields  were  fenced  olf,  some  with  post  and 
rail,  and  wire,  but  most  frequently  with  stone — I soon  found  gathered 
from  the  land,  which,  when  this  had  not  been  done,  was  thick  covered 
with  boulders  and  rounded  stone,  looking  like  our  Nigger-heads,  so- 
called,  and  when  gathered,  you  know,  making  a poor,  tumble-down 
Fence.  I thought  at  first  they  were  of  the  same  species  as  those 
which  cover  my  neighbors,  John  Will  Glaize’s  and  Henry  Stine’s 
Land  ; but  when  broken  I found  they  were  Basaltic. 


260 


LETTER  NO.  13. 


We  began  to  ascend  gradually,  not  long  after  leaving  the  City 
limits,  and  at  forty-five  miles  were  more  than  fifteen  hundred  feet 
above  the  Sea ; at  sixty-one  miles  were  more  than  nineteen  hundred, 
and  thence  descended  to  Ballarat,  fourteen  hundred  and  fifteen. 

Mounting  the  higher  elevations,  the  character  of  the  Countiy 
changed,  becoming  rolling,  some  violently,  whence  we  caught  now 
and  then  fine  extended  views,  and  the  soil  in  sections  improved : — 
especially  in  the  Valleys  into  which  the  washing  of  ages  from  the 
Hills  had  gone  and  formed  rich  alluvium.  A beautiful  Valley, 
called  Bacchus’  Marsh,  was  especially  significant  of  this — reminding 
me  of  our  Virginia  Max  Meadows  in  fertility  and  cultivation.  On 
higher  ground,  a little  further  on,  Bungaru  Section  was  also  a highly 
cultivated  region.  But  the  bulk  of  the  land  from  Melbourne  to 
Ballarat  is  thin,  adapted  to  and  used  only  for  pasturage,  and  in  many 
spots  numbers  of  Cattle  and  Sheep  wei’e  grazing.  On  the  whole,  I 
should  not  by  any  means  call  it  an  Agriculturally  rich  Country,  from 
which  much  wealth  could  be  emptied  into  the  lap  of  the  great  City. 

Some  hour  or  two  before  we  reached  Ballarat,  the  wind  began 
to  blow  in  gusty  style,  betokening  coming  rain ; and  it  fulfilled  its 
promise.  A short  time  after  our  arrival  at  the  Station,  it  began  and 
continued  to  shower  during  my  whole  stay  in  the  City.  I had  from 
half-past  ten  to  half-past  three  to  see  the  place — plenty  of  time — and 
intended  to  pedestrianize  it  according  to  my  habit;  but  not  choosing 
to  get  wet  in  the  adventure,  hired  a Hansom,  with  glass  front  and 
sides,  excellent  for  observation.  My  Driver  was  a bright,  polite 
young  fellow,  and  took  pleasure  in  showing  me  the  sights  of  his 
town,  of  which  he  was  evidently  veiy  proud. 

The  site  of  Ballarat  was  a Gold-Field,  and  in  it  was  the  beginning 
of  its  prosperous  career.  The  year  1851  was  that  of  the  birth  of  the 
Colony  of  Victoria  ; it  was,  also,  the  year  of  the  Gold  Find ; and 
Victoria  started  with  a Boom,  like  that  of  the  two  years  previous 
— 1849 — in  California;  Ballarat,  too,  was  then  born.  The  story, 
similar  to  that  of  California,  reads  like  a furious  Romance — when 
men  gathered  in  mobs,  and  became  drunk  with  the  sacm  fames. 
The  Colony  and  the  Site  starting  thus,  collected  people,  who  remained 
when  the  surface  was  exhausted,  and  have  been  since  the  Architects 
of  the  fortunes  of  both,  like  California  and  San  Francisco,  under  the 
impulse  of  the  Forty-Niners. 


BALLARAT— GOLD  NUGGETS. 


261 


Some  of  the  Nuggets  found  here,  and  at  Moliagul,  North  of  the 
Dividing  Range,  surpass  anything  ever  come  across  in  any  other  part 
of  the  World.  I have  spoken  of  them  incidentally  before,  when 
speaking  of  the  Dunedin  Exposition.  The  one  at  Moliagul  weighed 
one  hundred  and  ninety  pounds;  the  one  here,  one  hundred  and 
eighty-three  pounds — both  found  in  1869. 

To  afford  some  idea  of  the  size  of  the  Nuggets  of  Gold  found  at 
Ballarat  and  other  places,  I insert  the  following,  taken  from  one  of 
the  Papers  of  the  day  : 

“Big  Gold  Nuggets. 

The  Largest  Piece  of  Gold  yet  Found  was  Worth  $150,000. 

In  order  to  correct  many  misstatements  that  are  going  the  rounds 
of  the  Press  in  regard  to  the  largest  nuggets  of  gold  ever  found,  the 
editor  of  the  Silver  Dollar  desires  to  publish  the  following  facts,  which 
he  obtained  while  Commissioner  to  the  great  Mining  Exposition  held 
in  Denver,  Col.,  in  1882.  These  facts  were  obtained  from  the  gen- 
tlemen having  charge  of  the  Australian  exhibit,  which  includes  models 
of  all  the  large  nuggets  discovered  in  that  great  gold  field. 

The  largest  piece  of  gold  in  the  world  was  taken  from  Byer  & 
Haltman’s  gold-mining  claim.  Hill  End,  New  South  Wales,  May  10, 
1872.  Its  weight  was  640  pounds,  height  four  feet  nine  inches,  width 
three  feet  two  inches,  average  thickness  four  inches  ; worth  $148,800. 
It  was  found  imbeded  in  a thick  wall  of  blue  slate  at  a depth  of  250 
feet  from  the  surface.  The  owners  of  the  mine  were  living  on  charity 
when  they  found  it. 

Welcome  Stranger  Nugget  was  found  on  Mt.  Moliagul,  February 
9,  1869,  weighed  190  pounds,  and  was  worth  $45,600.  This  nugget 
was  raffled  for  $46,000  at  $5  a chance,  and  was  won  by  a man  driving 
a Baker’s  cart.  It  was  sold  to  the  Bank  for  its  true  value  and 
melted. 

The  Welcome  Nugget  was  found  at  Bakery  Hill,  June  9,  1858.  It 
weighed  184  pounds  9 ounces  16  pennyweights,  and  was  worth 
$44,356  ; was  raffled  for  $50,000  at  $5  a chance,  and  won  by  a small 
boy  in  a barber  shop. 

Lady  Hotham  Nugget — named  in  honor  of  the  wife  of  the  Gover- 
nor of  New  South  Wales — was  found  in  Canadian  Gully,  September 


262 


LETTER  NO.  IS. 


8,  1854.  It  weighed  98  pounds  10  ounces  12  pennyweights,  and  was 
sold  for  $23,557. 

Union  Jack  Nugget,  found  at  Buningorg,  February  28,  1857 ; 
weighed  23  pounds  5 ounces,  and  was  sold  for  $5,620.  It  was  found 
by  a runaway  sailor,  who  sold  it  for  the  sum  named,  and  spent  the 
money  in  just  four  weeks. 

No-name  Nugget,  found  at  Eureka,  Daulton’s  Flat,  February  7, 
1874,  fifty  feet  below  the  surface ; weighed  52  pounds  1 ounce,  and 
was  sold  for  $12,500.  ’ 

The  Leg  of  Mutton  Nugget  was  found  at  Ballarat,  January  31, 
1853,  at  a depth  of  sixty-five  feet.  It  weighed  134  pounds  11  ounces, 
and  was  sold  to  the  Bank  for  $32,380.  This  nugget  was  shaped  like 
a leg  of  mutton,  hence  its  name. 

No-name  Nugget,  found  at  Bakery  Hill,  Ballarat,  March  6,  1855, 
near  the  surface;  weighed  47  pounds  7 ounces,  and  was  sold  for 
$11,420. 

No-name  Nugget,  found  in  Canadian  Gully,  Ballarat,  January  22, 
1853,  at  a depth  of  twenty-five  feet ; weighed  84  pounds  3 ounces  15 
pennyweights,  and  was  sold  for  $20,235. 

The  Ivohinoor  Nugget,  found  at  Ballarat,  July  27,  1860,  at  a 
depth  of  160  feet  from  the  surface ; weighed  69  pounds,  and  was  sold 
for  $16,680. 

Sir  Dominic  Daly  Nugget,  found  February  27,  1862 ; weighed  26 
pounds,  and  sold  for  $6,240. 

No-name  Nugget,  found  at  Ballarat,  February  28,  1855,  only  six- 
teen feet  below  the  surface.  The  discovery  was  made  by  a small  boy. 
The  nugget  weighed  30  pounds  11  ounces  2 pennyweights,  and  sold 
for  $7,365. 

No-name  Nugget,  found  at  Weebville,  August  1,  1869 ; weighed 
12  pounds;  worth  $2,280. 

No-name  Nugget,  found  at  Ballarat,  February  2, 1853,  just  twelve 
feet  below  the  surface ; weighed  30  pounds,  and  sold  for  $7,360. 

No-name  Nugget,  found  in  Canadian  Gully,  January  20,  1853,  at 
eighteen  feet  below  the  surface;  weighed  93  pounds  1 ounce  and  11 
pennyweights,  and  sold  for  $20,350. 

No-name  Nugget,  found  at  Bakery  Hill,  March  6,  1855 ; weighed 
40  2>ounds,  and  was  worth  $9,600. 

Nil  Desperandum  Nugget,  found  at  Black  Hills,  November  29, 
1859;  weighed  45  pounds,  and  sold  for  $10,800. 


BALLARAT— GOLD  NUGGETS. 


263 


Oates  & Delson  Nugget,  found  at  Donolly  gold-field  in  1880,  at 
the  roots  of  a tree;  weighed  189  pounds,  and  sold  for  $50,000. 

In  addition  to  the  above  were  the  Heron  Nugget,  worth  $20,000, 
and  the  Empress  Nugget,  worth  $27,661. 

Gold  in  the  drift  deposits  has  been  found  in  larger  masses  in  Aus- 
tralia than  in  any  other  country.  Many  large  nuggets  were  found  in 
California  during  the  era  of  placer  mining,  but  we  have  no  record  of 
any  to  compare  with  those  we  have  described  in  Australia.” 

Whilst  these  extraordinary  things  are  not  picked  up  now,  the 
foundation  of  Ballarat  is  being  explored  with  machinery,  and  I 
heard  a gentleman  say,  that  a small  Earthquake  would  tumble  the 
town  into  a mass  of  debris.  Everywhere  about  are  piles  of  refuse 
brought  up  from  the  bowels  of  the  Earth  in  the  eager  search  for  the 
precious  stuff. 

The  digging  beneath  has  not  stopped  the  development  and  growth 
of  the  City  on  the  surface.  My  Driv'er  took  me  everywhere,  to  show 
me  how  business  had  grown  up  and  built  for  itself  in  its  thorough- 
fares handsome  and  costly  Emporiums,  and  how  its  proceeds  had 
opened  up  fine  parked  streets  and  lined  them  with  villas  and  delight- 
ful homes — reaching  out  into  the  Country.  How  the  desire  to  adorn 
as  well  as  utilize  has  collected  the  water  into  a Lake,  six  miles  in 
circuit,  navigable  by  small  Steamers,  and  on  its  farther  Shores  has 
put  a Botanical  Garden,  one  of  the  most  beautiful  in  Australasia — I 
think  the  finest  I have  anywhere  seen  in  these  regions ; how  one  of 
its  wealthy  citizens — Stoddart — has  adorned  it  with  thirty  marble 
figures — copies  of  the  antique,  and  original ; and  another — Thomp- 
son, a Scotchman — has  given  a fine  Heroic  white  marble  Figure  of 
Wallace,  which  stands  in  the  open  Garden  with  the  others,  whilst  a 
Dome  covers  four  exquisite  figures  in  white  marble,  also,  of  Eve, 
Rebecca,  Ruth,  and  Susannah,  surrounding  the  “ Flight  from  Pom- 
peii”— a man  and  woman,  the  latter  carrying  an  Infant,  in  full 
speed,  with  a marble  scroll,  representing  a shield,  above  their  heads 
to  protect  them  from  the  awful  and  certain  doom — all  of  Colossal 
size — a splendid  Group.  The  Conservatory,  filled  with  many  species 
of  Ferns  and  Exotics,  and  the  Grounds  elaborately  cultivated  and 
adorned,  all  make  these  Gardens  among  the  most  exquisite  I have 
ever  seen  in  any  part  of  the  World  : — by  far  the  finest  thing  in  Aus- 
tralia, no  doubt. 


264 


LETTER  NO.  13. 


The  principal  Street  is  ornamented  with  a White  Marble  Statue 
of  Burns,  and  a similar  one  of  Tom  Moore;  neither  of  them  much 
to  brag  of,  but  showing  a tender  feeling  of  the  Scotchman  and  the 
Son  of  Erin  for  the  Poets  who  have  given  a Poetic  Nationality  to 
their  Fatherland.  This  is  all  I have  time  to  say  of  Ballarat — doubt- 
less, you  think  enough. 

At  half-past  three  I left  Ballarat  for  Melbourne  by  the  way  of 
Geelong — G pronounced  soft,  like  G in  Gypsy — fifty-five  miles  to 
Geelong,  forty-five  thence  to  this  City.  We  arrived  here  at  eight 
o’clock. 

Tliere  was  a sure-enough  American  Car  on  the  train — seats  cush- 
ioned with  plush — the  only  one  I have  seen  out  in  these  regions.  I 
took  it  for  the  sake  of  Old  Lang  Syne,  and  it  was  far  more  comfort- 
able than  their  antiquated  Coaches.  By  my  side  was  an  old  man, 
who  told  me  he  had  been  in  this  Colony  and  had  lived  in  this  neigh- 
borhood for  fifty-eight  years — a Swiss  by  birth,  from  Neufchatel — 
and  it  delighted  him  to  talk  with  me  about  his  beloved  Country. 
He  said  the  land  between  Ballarat  and  Geelong  is  poor,  only  fit  for 
pasturage,  which  was  manifest  from  the  Cattle  and  Sheep  we  saw. 
He  said  he  stuck  to  his  business  and  made  money  when  the  Gold 
mania  was  abroad,  and  of  the  hundreds  who  ran  mad  after  it,  he  did 
not  know  a single  one  who  had  made  money  in  the  “Higgins” ; they 
died  poor,  and  the  few  speculators  coined  money  out  of  their  sweat 
and  misfortunes. 

It  rained  the  whole  way  to  this  City. 

I have  now  seen  Melbourne  and  its  surroundings  worthy  the  note 
of  the  traveller.  It  is  a wonderful  City,  without  question — now  the 
Capital  of  the  Colony  of  Victoria,  and  numbering  nearly  half  a mil- 
lion of  people — one-half  almost  of  the  population  of  the  Colony  itself. 
No  City  on  Earth  is  more  remarkable,  considering  its  youth  and  its 
surroundings.  It  and  Chicago  have  been  compared.  In  size,  in 
splendor,  in  all  that  constitutes  a great  Emporium,  it  is  vastly  inferior 
to  Chicago ,'  but  when  compared  in  advantages,  it  is  probably  the 
more  remarkable  of  the  two.  Chicago  is  not  only  the  centre  of  an 
immediate  Country  greatly  superior  to  that  which  environs  Mel- 
bourne, but  may  be  said  to  be  the  centre  of  a vast  Continent.  Burned 
down,  much  of  it,  to  a level  with  the  ground,  it  was  rebuilt  by  the 
wealth  of  that  Continent,  and  with  a magnificence,  in  the  continuity 


MELBOURNE. 


265 


of  its  structures,  without  a parallel.  Melbourne,  like  all  Cities  that 
have  grown  continuously,  has  many  fine  structures  broken  by  inferior 
buildings  erected  before  the  place  aspired  to  grand  proportions. 

It  has  much  the  air  and  busy  activity  of  an  American  growth, 
though  in  fact  Americans  had  not  much  to  do  with  it ; few  of  them 
being  here  in  comparison  with  those  from  the  Old  Country.  But  the 
push  and  audacity  of  its  business  men  are  very  American. 

Yet  the  judgment  of  its  leading  citizens  has  not  kept  pace  with  their 
enterprise.  This  great  collection  of  people  have  been  gathered  with- 
out any  sanitary  precautions  with  regard  to  their  future  safety  and 
health.  Seated  on  comparatively  low  ground,  whilst  they  have  wisely 
followed  the  contour  of  the  City’s  site,  moderately  rolling,  in  the 
laying  out  of  the  streets,  they  made  no  provision  for  its  Sewerage. 
Thousands  upon  thousands  of  people  have  flocked  here  from  year  to 
year,  and  the  ground  allowed  to  become  saturated  with  the  monstrous 
accompaniments  of  a big  City — its  only  relief  being  a surface  drain- 
age. Of  late  they  have  awakened  to  the  imminence  of  the  situation, 
and  Engineers  have  been  appointed  to  report  upon  Sewage  Plans. 
But  the  movement  has  been  too  long  postponed,  and  Melbourne  has 
already  earned  the  reputation  of  being  a most  unhealthy  place : 
Typhoid  and  other  malignant  fevers  rioting  among  its  inhabitants. 
When  the  time  comes  to  turn  up  this  fetid  soil  in  constructing  Sewers 
it  will  be  converted  into  a charnel  house.  I know  no  City  with  such 
an  ugly  danger  to  confront.  The  City  of  Mexico  is  upon  a cesspool, 
but  seven  thousand  feet  above  the  Sea : the  atmosphere  is  pure 
around  it,  like  its  skies.  Melbourne,  not  thus  blessed,  in  a climate 
always  warm,  often  for  days  among  the  hottest  on  Earth,  where  frost 
never  comes,  the  opening  of  her  chronic  sores  is  frightful  to  con- 
template. 

For  her  Financial  health,  Melbourne  has  grown  too  fast.  She  has 
had,  also,  that  ugly  thing  called  a Boom.  Her  fall  from  the  eleva- 
tion to  which  it  boosted  her  a year  or  two  ago  has  left  her  “ flat  and 
unprofitable.”  Many  were  ruined,  many  more  badly  crippled,  houses 
built  for  which  there  is  no  demand,  and  the  end  for  Melbourne  not 
yet.  It  will,  in  the  estimate  of  her  sensible  people,  be  a long  time 
before  she  recovers  and  stands  firmly  on  her  feet  again. 

It  strikes  me,  in  a general  way,  that  Melbourne  is  a mushroom 
growth — too  large  and  presumptuous  for  her  resources,  and  taking  on 
more  than  she  can  legitimately  and  easily  carry.  These  views,  how- 


266 


LETTER  NO.  13. 


evei’,  only  confirm  what  I say : that  her  growth  out  of  such  environ- 
ments make  her  one  of  the  most  interesting  and  remarkable  Cities  in 
the  World,  and  well  worth  the  traveller’s  time  and  trouble  to  see. 

To  give  some  idea  of  the  foregoing  condition  of  things,  I insert 
the  following  slips  from  the  Papers  of  the  Day — of  that  date  and 
slightly  subsequent : 

“ Melbouene,  July  10,  1890. — One  of  the  co-operative  building 
societies  here,  the  “Premier  Permanent,”  has  just  smashed,  with  a 
deficit  of  about  $800,000.  The  Secretary  was  one  James  Mirams, 
who  from  keeping  a small  box  store  and  news-stall  bloomed  into  a 
Member  of  Parliament  and  Financier.  Mirams  travelled  on  piety 
and  cold  water.  He  had  the  “unco  guid”  by  the  wool.  They  rushed 
to  take  shares  in  the  Society.  They  deposited  their  savings  in  its 
coffers.  Mr.  Nimmo,  an  ex-Minister  of  the  Crown  and  a staunch 
teetotaller,  was  Chairman  of  the  Society.  On  the  Board  of  Directors 
were  Mr.  Dow,  Minister  of  Lands,  and  Mr,  Munro,  son  of  the  leader 
of  the  opposition  party  in  Parliament — all  cold  water  men,  be  it  noted. 

Everything  appears  to  have  been  trusted  to  Mirams.  He  went 
into  other  speculations,  and  was  reported  to  be  worth  two  or  three 
million  dollars.  He  started  a big  suburban  establishment,  drove  fast 
horses,  and  astonished  his  old  acquaintances  with  the  statement  that 
“ No  gentleman  can  do  without  twelve  horses  in  his  stable.”  Mel- 
bourne clerks,  mostly  church  members,  and  total  abstainers,  watched 
the  upward  flight  of  Mirams,  and  aspired  to  become  gentlemen  with 
a dozen  horses  in  their  stables,  and,  as  a result,  many  of  them  are 
now  penitent  in  Pentridge,  our  penal  establishment. 

The  end  of  the  land  boom  came  last  year,  and  the  bottom  fell  out 
of  everything  which  was  not  solid.  Mirams  collapsed,  his  house  and 
horses  were  sold,  and  his  last  state  is  now  worse  than  his  first,  for  he 
is  in  the  felon’s  dock. 

The  Premier  Permanent  went  with  the  crash,  and  an  official  liqui- 
dator was  appointed.  This  was  one  Colonel  Templeton,  a militia 
officer  and  an  accountant.  He  realized  the  assets,  but  instead  of 
dividing  these  among  the  shareholders,  he  has  instituted  criminal 
proceedings  against  the  Dii-ectors,  the  Officials,  and  the  very  Clerks. 
That  Mirams  should  be  prosecuted,  goes  without  saying;  but  that  a 
private  pi’osecution  should  be  instigated  with  the  shareholders’  funds 
against  the  Directors,  is  now  generally  held  to  be  an  outrage. 


MELBOURNE. 


267 


Mr.  Dow  at  once  sent  in  his  resignation  to  the  Ministry,  which  the 
Cabinet  at  first  refused  to  accept;  but  Dow  persisted  in  resigning  till 
his  character  was  cleared. 

What  many  of  us  object  to  in  this  action  of  Colonel  Templeton  is 
that  through  it  the  enemies  of  Australia  in  England  will  magnify 
the  fact  that  a Minister  of  the  Crown  and  an  ex-Minister  have  been 
charged  with  being  parties  to  a great  fraud,  and  will  rejoice  thereat, 
as  they  do  over  every  criminal  sensation  in  America.’’ 


“the  sweating  system  denounced. 

Until  to-day  few  people  believed  that  “sweating”  existed  in  Aus- 
tralia. The  press,  however,  has  shown  that  it  does  exist,  and  at  last 
the  Trades  Hall  Council  has  taken  up  the  matter.  This  is  a body 
composed  of  representatives  of  the  different  trades  unions  in  Victoria. 
It  is  a powerful  political  engine,  and  should  have  been  the  first  to 
bring  sweating  to  light.  But  having  commenced  work,  the  Trades 
Hall  Council  did  well.  Sub-committees  visited  the  suburbs,  and 
unearthed  the  Sweaters’  Dens ; ascertained  the  prices  paid,  and  the 
factories  that  put  out  work  to  the  sweaters.  A mass  meeting  was 
called,  the  Mayor  was  asked  to  grant  the  use  of  the  Town  Hall,  and  last 
night  one  of  the  largest  gatherings  I remember  in  Melbourne  was  held. 

The  result  of  this  meeting  will  be  that  public  opinion  will  force  Par- 
liament to  pass  some  measure  by  which  Sweaters’  Dens  will  be  brought 
under  the  provisions  of  our  Factory  Act;  and  public  opinion  will,  also, 
force  our  fashionable  tailors  to  abstain  from  employing  middlemen.” 


“ Austkaeia’s  Financial  Teoubles. 

The  failure  of  the  English,  Scottish,  and  Australian  Chartered 
Bank  for  $40,000,000,  following  upon  a long  line  of  failures  of  other 
prominent  Australian  banks  during  the  last  two  years,  emjihasizes 
the  oft-taught  lesson,  that  the  prosperity  which  is  produced  chiefly 
by  the  spending  of  borrowed  money  is  unwholesome  for  a community, 
and  must,  as  a rule,  end  in  disaster.  All  goes  pleasantly  enough 
while  the  millions  are  being  poured  out.  Business  flourishes,  strikes 
multiply,  wages  rise,  and  immigrants  flock  in.  New  enterprises  are 
entered  upon  everywhere.  But  the  enterprises  are  often  unsuited  to 


268 


LETTER  NO.  13. 


the  time  and  place  and  fail  to  pay.  Taxes  to  pay  interest  begin  to 
be  felt.  Wages  fall,  immigration  slackens,  and  sanguine  investors 
lose  great  part  of  their  capital.  The  depression  that  attends  and 
follows  the  period  of  liquidation  is  the  harder  to  bear,  for  the  reason 
that  the  Community  has  accustomed  itself  during  the  “spurt”  to  an 
extravagant  mode  of  living.  It  groans  over  necessary  economies, 
and  brings  itself  down  to  hard-pan  only  after  painful  struggles  on 
the  part  of  one  section  or  another  of  the  Community  to  maintain  its 
position  at  the  expense  of  the  rest. 

The  English,  Scottish,  and  Australian  Bank  was  a conservative 
institution  chartered  in  1852.  It  appears  to  have  kept  its  head  pretty 
well  during  the  recent  booms,  but  not  sufficiently  well  to  command 
the  absolute  confidence  of  its  depositors.  Six  months  ago  it  had 
deposits  of  $30,000,000,  but  these  have  been  steadily  withdrawn. 
Since  the  1st  of  the  present  month,  $1,000,000  has  been  withdrawn. 
Evidently  it  is  difficult  for  a bank  doing  a business  of  $50,000,000 
a year  to  realize  at  this  rate  on  its  collaterals,  unless  of  the  gilt-edge 
kind.  It  is  believed  that  the  assets  of  the  Bank,  if  duly  “ nursed,” 
will  largely  exceed  its  liabilities ; but  the  collapse  of  the  boom  has 
weakened  confidence  in  all  Australian  assets.  There  has  been  much 
over-trading  and  over-building.  Cases  are  mentioned  where  property 
has  lost  three-fourths  of  its  former  value,  so  that  loans  up  to  50  per 
cent  only  of  the  boom  value  have  netted  the  banks  heavy  losses. 
Wages  have  till  recently  been  very  high, — a laborer  getting  from 
$3  to  $4  for  a day  of  about  seven  hours.  The  fever  of  flush  times, 
however,  is  now  in  the  past,  and  Australia  will  adjust  itself  as  best 
it  can  to  its  increased  burdens.  It  is  a rich  Country.  Its  per  capita 
debt  is  the  largest  in  the  World;  but  its  natural  resources  are  great, 
and  its  people  have  immense  “go.”  A few  years  will,  doubtless, 
bring  them  round  again.” 


Melbourne  to  Sydney, 

Sydney,  New  South  Wales,  Australia, 

Empire  Hotel, 

Wednesday  and  Thursday,  April  9 and  10, 1890. 

It  rained  hard  all  day  in  Melbourne  on  Wednesday  till  the  hour 
of  my  departure  for  Sydney.  In  the  Morning  I went  to  the  Union 


MELBOURNE. 


269 


Bank  of  Australia,  my  Letter  of  Credit  Correspondent,  to  inquire  for 
my  mail.  I found  one  Letter  from  Charles,  of  February  5 ; one  from 
Little  Louise,  of  January  31 ; and  four  from  yourself,  viz  : February 
6,  February  13,  February  20,  and  February  27,  enclosing  one  from 
my  Friend.  Hubbell,  of  Lima,  Peru,  of  January  6,  in  I’esponse  to  one 
I wrote  him  just  before  my  departure  from  Home.  I also  received 
six  packages  of  papers — not  a single  Letter  from  Margaret ! I then 
went  and  bought  from  Thomas  Cook  & Sons  a Ticket  and  Sleeper 
Ticket  to  Sydney.  They  cost  no  more  than  when  bought  from  the 
Company,  and  save  me  the  hurry  and  crowd  at  the  Station  on  the 
leaving  of  the  Train ; for,  strange  to  say,  the  Eailways  here  have  not 
yet  Offices  at  which  you  can  pi’ocure  them  before  the  hour  of  depart- 
ure, as  with  us,  but  you  have  to  be  hustled  and  crushed  at  the  Ticket 
Office.  They  are,  however,  gradually  learning  and  taking  on  our 
modes. 

I then  hurried  back  to  my  Room  and  devoured  the  contents  of  the 
Letters — wondering  why  none  came  from  Margaret.  They  filled  me 
with  alternate  joy  and  sorrow  ; joy  that  yon  were  all  well,  sorrow  for 
the  misfortune  that  befell  you  in  the  fire  at  the  Shoe  Factory,  and 
that  I am  not  there  to  help  you  bear  it  and  plan  with  you  for  the 
restoration  of  the  property.  My  ever  faithful  consolation,  however, 
came  to  me : it  might  have  been  so  much  worse.  Do  you  think 
Eight  Hundred  Dollars  will  cover  the  loss  ? I fear  not,  if  the  Roof 
has  to  be  restored.  You  know  how  unreliable  is  the  Carpenter’s 
estimate — almost  ever  falling  below  the  ultimate  cost.  How  much 
does  Ned  know,  with  his  life-long  experience,  about  making  such  an 
estimate?  The  Roof,  of  course,  must  be  firmly  and  strongly  bridged 
in  order,  as  before,  to  bear  the  suspended  floors ; which  I reminded 
you  in  a former  Letter  ought  also  to  be  supported  from  the  ground  up. 

Were  I not  such  a vast  distance  from  you,  I would  break  up  my 
plans  and  run  Home  by  the  shortest  and  fastest  Route  ; but  six  weeks 
has  elapsed  since  the  misfortune  occurred ; another  six  weeks  would, 
intervene  before  I could  reach  you,  by  which  time  your  work  would 
all  be  done.  And  without  any  possible  good  my  Tour  would  be 
undone.  After  the  expenditure  of  much  money  and  precious  time, 
both  would  in  effect  be  thrown  uselessly  away.  Home  has,  ever  since 
I read  your  Letter,  been  constantly  on  my  heart,  and  Australia  is 
forgotten,  save  as  it  glides  before  my  eyes.  And  then,  too,  the 
trouble  comes  when  you  are  overrun  with  Professional  work  and  in 


270 


LETTER  NO.  13. 


an  Epidemic.  AVhat  must  I do?  If  I stay  and  continue  my  Jour- 
ney, its  experiences  will  be  overclouded  with  apprehensions;  if  I 
break  its  thread  and  go  hack  over  the  same  Route,  reaching  you  when 
the  trouble  has  ceased,  it  will  be  a source  of  unending  regret  to  us  all. 

By  the  way,  where  is  John?  that  you  did  not  employ  him  and 
Kim  to  do  the  work?  I have  really  no  suggestions  of  material 
change  in  the  Building.  Make  the  floors  and  their  supports  strong, 
and  you  can  arrange  its  interior  to  suit  any  future  demand.  But, 
above  all  things,  make  the  Roof  powerful.  You  remember,  I tried 
to  make  it  strong  with  special  design  to  sustain  the  floors.  It  was 
once  before,  by  the  ignorance  or  oversight  of  the  Cai'penters,  near 
falling  into  a mass  of  ruins. 

To  Margaret:  AVhat  in  the  world  has  become  of  your  Letters? 
In  two  months  only  one,  out  of  eight  or  ten  that  ought  to  have 
reached  me,  of  your  weekly  Letters,  has  come  to  hand.  Their  loss 
to  me  is  incalculable.  AVhen  reading  their  newsy  contents  you  put 
me  in  your  midst,  and  I go  through  them  with  an  interest  inexpres- 
sible. I would  have  great  anxiety,  but  Taylor,  in  his,  tells  me  of 
your  and  Mary’s  visits  to  the  Old  Home ; and  for  you  to  forget  me 
or  be  oblivious  of  what  so  keeps  me  up  and  binds  me  unbrokenly  to 
you  all  in  these  far-off  Countries  is,  I know,  im^DOSsible.  You  have, 
I am  sure,  written  the  Letters,  and  failed  to  put  on  them  the  proper 
stamps,  and  they  are  hanging  somewhere  on  the  way,  or  been  thrown 
into  the  waste  basket.  All  of  Taylor’s,  you  perceive,  have  come — 
none  from  you  since  the  one  dated  January  12,  which  I noted  on  a 
previous  page  of  this,  at  the  time  of  its  receipt.  Some  of  Taylor’s, 
happily,  was  returned  to  the  Postmaster  in  AVinchester  for  want  of 
a sufficieut  stamp,  and  that  through  a mistake  of  the  Postmaster 
himself.  Yours  have  not  met  such  good  fortune,  but  been  simply 
stopped  and  lost. 

Such  troubles  have  never  come  to  me  in  all  my  previous  Tours ; 
indeed  none  ever  came  to  me  before.  But  why  should  these  make 
me  anxious  in  the  midst  of  my  wanderings,  when  you  are  all  well, 
and  no  trouble  has  occurred  that  cannot  be  repaired  ? But  it  grieves 
me  that  I cannot  be  there  to  help  repair  them.  If  I was  nearer,  and 
could  reach  there  in  time  to  do  any  good,  my  Tour  should  end  right 
here  and  now. 

But,  however  sorrowfully,  I must  travel  on  with  the  Story  of  my 
Tour.  To  stop  would  do  neither  you  nor  me  any  good  ; would, 


MELBOURNE  TO  SYDNEY. 


271 


indeed,  be  only  adding  to  our  aggravations — to  me,  throwing  my 
thoughts  into  channels,  crowding  each  other  with  imaginary  entangle- 
ments and  making  me  unhappy  hopelessly,  and  leaving  you  without 
these  lines,  which,  judging  you  by  myself,  must  be  in  their  commu- 
nion during  my  long  absence  a never-ceasing  consolation. 

I had  my  Trunk  and  Deck  Chair  and  Satchel  at  the  Station  in 
Melbourne  in  due  time.  When  I came  to  put  my  Trunk  and  Chair 
on  the  Car,  the  Porter  checked  it  with  a brass  check  and  handed  me 
the  duplicate  in  true  American  style.  I told  him  I was  glad  to  see 
they  were  getting  into  civilized  habits  in  their  Railway  modes,  and 
pointing  to  the  crowds  of  men  and  women  jostling  each  other  around 
the  Pigeon  Hole  of  the  Ticket  Olfice,  told  him  I hoped  that,  also, 
would  be  included  in  their  reforms. 

We  started  at  five  o’clock  p.  m.  The  rain  which  had  been  pour- 
ing down  all  day  continued  during  the  night,  till  our  arrival  here  in 
Sydney  at  twelve  o’clock  to-day — Thursday.  The  Country  during 
the  daylight  was  none  to  brag  of — much  like  that  to  Ballarat — now 
or  once  strewn  with  Basaltic  boulders  and  rounded  stone ; in  many 
places,  indeed,  genei’ally,  for  some  miles,  fenced  in  and  cleared,  and 
converted  rather  to  pasture,  than  to  cultivated  fields.  This  Road 
runs  Northwest,  and  the  suburbs  of  the  big  City  extends  for  miles — 
now,  with  simple  homes — now,  with  handsome  Villas. 

About  midnight  we  reached  Albury,  one  hundred  and  ninety  miles 
from  Melbourne,  on  the  Murray  River,  which  divides  the  Colonies 
of  Victoria  and  New  South  Wales,  of  which  Sydney  is  the  Capital. 
Here  w^e  had  to  change  trains,  the  Gauges  of  the  Roads  being  differ- 
ent, resulting,  some  say,  from  the  jealousy  of  the  Governments,  in 
whose  hands  and  under  whose  control  all  the  Railways  and  Tele- 
graphic Lines  are.  Passengers  and  Freight,  also,  had  to  be  trans- 
ferred. Here  I took  my  Sleeper,  and  having  my  apartment  and 
berth  assigned  me  on  the  Ticket,  my  place  was  soon  come  across, 
under  the  guidance  of  the  polite  and  attentive  Steward. 

Here  I found  an  improvement,  I think,  upon  the  Pullman  Sleepers : 
instead  of  the  Bunks  being  arranged  along  the  Aisle  on  either  side  of 
the  Car,  they  are  in  compartments,  closing  with  a door,  occupying 
one  side  of  the  Car ; the  Aisle  by  which  they  are  reached  occupying 
the  other.  I think  this  plan  secures  more  privacy  and  better  venti- 
lation. My  Room-mate  occupied  the  upper,  I the  lower  Berth,  which 


272 


LETTER  NO.  13. 


were  roomy  and  clean,  and  I could  have  rested  well  had  not  my 
thoughts  kept  awake,  and  travelled  from  me  many  miles  away. 

When  daylight  came  I was  up  and  out,  and  from  that  hour  observed 
the  Country,  till  our  arrival  here — a distance  from  Albury  of  three 
hundred  and  eighty-six  miles,  a total  distance  from  Melbourne  of 
five  hundred  and  seventy-six.  Much  of  it  was  a wilderness  of  ragged 
foi’est,  like  that  I have  written  of  before  in  Australia : either  living, 
spindling  Eucalypti,  in  its  seemingly  legion  species,  or  their  stark 
skeletons ; some,  but  not  much  in  comparison,  converted  into  pasture- 
lands,  on  which  wei'e  numbers  of  Cattle  and  Sheep.  I saw  but  few 
fields  in  grain. 

When  my  mate  aroused  himself,  I found  he  was  a Scotchman  from 
near  Edinburgh,  who  once  lived  in  Australia,  but  now  resided  in  the 
Old  Country,  and  was  paying  a visit  to  the  Colonies  with  his  family 
of  seven,  doubtless  to  show  them  where  he  in  his  young  days  had 
made  his  pile.  He  was  a pleasant,  gentlemanly  old  man,  think- 
ing a little  more  highly  of  himself  at  first  than  he  ought  to  think ; 
but  easily  feeling  his  ignorance,  after  a while,  and  gently  coming 
down. 

When  [ reached  the  Station,  I took  a Cab,  and  in  a few 
moments  was  landed  at  the  Hotel  which  heads  this  Letter  j and 
was  assigned  to  a comfortable  Room.  I saw  Mr.  Nead,  who, 
with  his  wife,  is  staying  here,  and  with  whom  probably  I may 
travel  homewards. 

It  raining,  I did  not  go  out  in  the  afternoon  or  evening : but 
quietly  rested,  and  after  Dinner  went  early  to  Bed. 

To  Charles:  Your  Letter  came,  bearing  its  pleasure,  and  was  read 
greedily.  Time  and  Travel  do  not  blunt  my  greed  to  hear  from  those 
who  are  dear  to  me;  rather  increases  with  both.  The  foregoing  pages 
have  told  you  of  our  Home  and  trouble  there,  and  how  it  has  risen 
and,  floating  thitherward,  like  a cloud,  overshadows  my  goings.  I am 
delighted  you  are  all  well  and  happy.  Kiss  Louise  for  me,  and  tell 
her,  that  was  a nice,  thoughtful  Letter  she  wrote  me,  and  how  I 
enjoyed  it,  here,  on  the  t’other  side  of  the  World.  She  must  write 
again,  and  let  me  know  how  she  likes  my  Geography.  I hope  it  does 
not  affect  her  like  Geography  in  general  does  one  of  our  Winchester 
boys,  who  told  his  teacher  he  dreamt  about  it.  His  teacher  asked 
him.  What?  He  said  he  dreamt,  “Damn  Geography.” 


SYDNEY. 


273 


Same  City  and  Hotel, 

Friday,  April  11,  1890. 

Not  satisfied  witli  the  conclusion  yesterday  with  regard  to  my  future 
movements,  my  Friend  Mr.  Nead  and  I went  to  see  our  Consul,  Mr. 
Gilderoy  W.  Griffin,  to  make  inquiry  about  the  next  Steamer  to  San 
Francisco.  It  sails  on  the  sixteenth  of  this  month  ; but  the  Consul 
said  was  crowded  to  overflowing,  and  there  was  not  only  no  room, 
but  many  would  be  left  here  and  in  New  Zealand,  who  desired  pass- 
age. At  this  Season,  the  crowds  returning  to  or  visiting  the  Old 
Countries  are  very  great,  and  many  desire  to  pass  through  the  United 
States  out,  returning  in  the  Fall  by  Suez.  The  Zelandia  is  the 
Steamer  for  the  sixteenth.  You  remember,  on  my  First  Tour,  this 
same  Ship  took  me  to  San  Francisco  from  Honolulu,  with  a great 
crowd,  and  at  this  same  Season  of  the  year. 

We  then  went  to  the  French  Line — Messageries  Maritimes — and 
learned  that  one  of  their  Vessels  left  Sydney  for  Marseilles  on  the 
25th  of  this  month  by  the  Suez  Canal.  The  Line  is  a very  fine  one, 
and  this  Ship,  the  Australien,  one  of  its  best  Steamers,  and  we  have 
determined  to  take  it.  It  will  be  in  to-morrow,  and  we  Avill  go  and 
see  for  ourselves.  The  Agent  politely  said  he  would  accompany  us. 

We  then  walked  to  the  Wharves — Sydney  Cove — and  I had  a 
first  view  of  a segment  of  the  famous  Harbor  of  Sydney.  I will 
make  no  comments  now.  By  many,  it  is  claimed  to  be  the  most 
beautiful  Harbor  on  the  Globe.  Before  I leave,  I hope  I will  be 
competent  to  judge,  from  a more  extended  view. 

Strolling  on,  we  visited  the  Botanical  Gardens,  which,  also,  have 
a great  reputation.  The  clouds  and  rain  of  yesterday  had  gone,  and 
we  could  not  have  had  a more  auspicious  day.  With  such  advant- 
ages, I was  not  disappointed.  The  Gardens  are  superbly  located, 
the  North  side  bounded  by  the  Harbor,  embracing  Farm  Cove,  one 
of  its  Inlets,  framed  in  a waterwall,  along  which  is  a Promenade, 
from  Fort  Macquerie  to  Lady  Macquerie’s  Chair — the  two  headlands 
of  the  Cove.  Adjoining  the  Gardens  on  the  North,  and,  indeed,  a 
part  of  them,  are  the  Governor’s  House  and  Grounds,  also  reaching 
to  the  Cove ; on  the  South  is  the  Domain  and  Hyde  Park,  bounded 
Westward  by  Wolloomooloo  Bay,  another  Inlet  of  the  Harbor,  which, 
with  the  other  Reserves  in  the  City,  embrace  eight  hundred  acres.  I 
18 


274 


LETTER  NO.  IS. 


send  you  a Map  of  Sydney,  that  you  may  the  better  understand  and 
follow  me. 

The  Gardens  are  handsomely  laid  out  and  improved,  and  are  well 
deserving  of  their  reputation.  From  high  grounds  in  their  midst  are 
extended  views  of  them  and  of  Port  Jackson — the  Harbor’s  name — a 
scene  not  calculated  by  any  means  to  impair  the  Harbor’s  claim  for 
supremacy  in  excellence  and  beauty.  We  will  gather  after  a while 
all  its  charms  ; first  seeing  it  in  segments. 

Same  City  and  Hotel, 

Saturday,  April  12,  1890. 

Still  not  satisfied,  I determined  to  Cable  you.  Mr.  Nead,  who 
has  been  here  some  months  and  knows  the  ins  and  outs  of  the  City, 
and  is  besides  a man  of  business  and  up  in  its  details,  kindly  went 
with  me  to  Reuter’s,  the  famous  Cable  and  Telegraph  man,  you  know, 
and  helped  me.  This  is  the  first  time  in  all  my  world-wide  and 
world-around  Travels,  I have  ever  been  called  upon  to  use  the  Ocean 
Wire.  I earnestly  trust  and  pray  it  may  never  occur  again.  If 
it  does  not  upon  this  Tour,  I feel  that  it  never  will ; for  from  my 
anxieties  about  you  all,  I think  the  residue  of  my  life  will  be  spent 
with  you,  and  the  small  portion  of  the  World  worth  seeing,  now  left 
by  me  unvisited,  shall  thus  remain. 

I made  the  contents  of  the  Message  brief  enough,  certainly — simply 
saying,  “ Shall  I return  ? ” Even  this  cost  me  about  twenty  dollars, 
and  would  have  cost  much  more,  but  I used  Reuter’s  Code,  by  which 
the  Message  was  cast  into  one  word,  for  which  use  alone  I paid  two 
dollars  and  fifty  cents.  I mention  this  as  Travel  information,  hoping 
your  cost  at  the  other  end  will  not  be  so  much — for  your  response 
need  only  be  Yes  ! or  No  ! or  that  you  may  leave  it  for  me  to  pay  at 
this  end.  I trust  things  won’t  get  tangled  in  the  long  transmission, 
by  ignorant  Agents  along  the  Line.  The  Agent  here  said  you  would 
receive  it  in  a few  hours — maybe,  while  I write,  it  has  come  to  hand 
and  the  answer  is  on  the  wing.  Though  this  I can  hardly  hope  for. 

Fixing  this,  Mr.  Nead  and  I parted,  and  I wandered  alone  about 
the  City,  taking  in  the  Streets  and  observing  the  lay  and  build  of 
Sydney,  and  then  out  through  the  Domain  and  Hyde  Park.  At  the 
opening  of  the  latter,  stands  a Marble  Statue  of  the  Prince  Consort, — 
by  admirers  to  “ Albert  the  Good  ” — and  in  an  area  in  front,  one  of 


SYDNEY. 


275 


the  Queen.  Farther  on  in  the  Park  upon  an  elevation,  is  an  impos- 
ing Bronze  Figure  of  Captain  Cook,  of  Colossal  proportions,  on  a 
granite  pedestal,  with  extended  and  elevated  hand  claiming  for  the 
Crown  the  vast  possessions  he  had  found — a fine  work  of  Art,  and  a 
not  unworthy  tribute  to  the  Great  Discoverer. 

Near  by,  across  the  way,  is  the  Sydney  Museum,  where  I next 
went.  It  is  in  a quite  handsome  Building  of  a Buif-colored  Stone — 
I observe  very  common  in  the  City,  of  which  many  of  its  handsomest 
edifices  are  built.  Not  far  off  on  the  same  street  stands  the  unfinished 
Roman  Catholic  Cathedral,  of  the  same  material,  which  I visited ; of 
it  is  also  built  the  Post  Office,  an  exceedingly  capacious  and  hand- 
some structure — spoiled,  however,  by  a tall,  many  storied  spindling 
Tower,  which  rises  from  one  of  its  sides,  without  any  seeming  Archi- 
tectural or  other  propriety  or  design.  Of  it,  too,  most  of  the  Banks 
are  built,  very  numerous  and  very  snmptuous,  and  to  the  people,  I 
am  quite  sure,  very  expensive  Financial  Shops ; and  many  Business 
Houses. 

But  to  proceed  with  the  Museum : When  I entered  I inquired  of 
the  polite  Janitor  where  I would  find  the  Australian  Snakes ; I wanted 
to  see  two  or  three  of  its  species,  which  are  fatally  venomous — the 
Adder,  the  Tiger  Snake  and  the  Black  Snake.  Australia  has  a great 
number  of  these  creatures — sixty  to  seventy  species — most  of  which 
are  more  or  less  poisonous ; the  three  I have  mentioned  regarded  as 
fatal.  Since  I have  been  in  the  Country  I have  seen  notices  of  two 
or  three  deaths  from  the  bite  of  the  Tiger  Snake.  Whilst  wandering 
through  I was  overtaken  by  a young  man,  who  said  he  had  been  in- 
formed that  I was  examining  the  Snake  Department,  and  had  come 
to  help  give  me  any  information  in  his  power ; that  he  had  charge  of 
it,  and  had  assisted  in  collecting  many  of  its  specimens;  and  kindly 
and  intelligently  showed  me  what  I desired  to  see,  and  then  accom- 
panied me  through  the  residue  of  the  Museum.  In  our  walk  he  told 
me  that  he  spent  thi'ee  years  in  Texas,  and  learning  who  I was,  his 
courtesies  increased,  and  we  wandered  much  longer  than  I had  any 
intention  of  doing,  talking  of  the  Museum  and  its  contents  and  of 
America.  It  is  a fine  collection,  well  cared  for,  and  that  of  the 
Marsupials  of  Australia  by  far  the  most  complete  I ever  saw ; doubt- 
less the  most  complete  in  the  world.  But  in  a hasty  Letter,  to  attempt 
to  enumerate  is  folly  and  a bore. 


276 


LETTER  NO.  13. 


His  name,  he  told  me,  is  Oglebie,  and  accompanying  me  to  the 
door,  urged  me  to  return  and  spend  some  time,  and  he  would  intro- 
duce me  to  the  Superintendent,  who  was  much  more  competent  to 
give  me  information ; and  would,  he  knew,  take  great  pleasure  in 
doing  so. 

In  the  afternoon  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Nead  and  I went  to  the  Harbor 
and  visited  the  French  Steamer  we  propose  to  take.  We  were  met 
by  the  Agent  and  the  Purser  of  the  Ship,  and  conducted  thi’ough, 
showing  us  the  Saloon,  Rooms  and  Appointments  of  the  Big  Vessel, 
and  ordering  out  his  best  wines  to  vivify  and  encourage  us. 

At  Dinner,  Mrs.  Nead,  who  is  a Catholic,  had  Father  Moore,  a 
Jesuit  Priest,  to  dine  with  us.  He  is  an  intelligent  man,  and  of 
course  been  taught  by  his  Order  that  profound  Philosophy  of  the 
Apostle,  “ to  be  all  things  to  all  men,  that  ye  may  save  some,”  and 
consequently  is  an  agreeable  one  to  meet.  Our  talk  mainly  related 
to  Travels,  in  which  I gave  him  some  of  my  experiences.  Pie  said  he 
had  heard  of  me  from  a friend  who  met  me  in  New  Zealand,  and  Mrs. 
Nead  told  me  he  was  anxious  to  meet  on  account  of  the  encomiums 
bestowed  upon  me.  We  did  not  drift  upon  Religion  or  the  Church, 
and  therefore  I have  nothing  to  say  of  our  talk  ; for  to  even  remotely 
allude  to  my  Travels  would  be  an  outrage  upon  one  who  has  been 
Avith  me  through  hundreds  of  pages  of  their  stories. 

You  perceive  I am  not  progressing  very  fast  in  sight  seeing.  To 
tell  the  truth,  my  thoughts  are  with  you  all  at  home,  not  in  Australia; 
and  the  news  your  Letters  bring,  and  the  absence  of  news  from  Mar- 
garet, have  blunted  the  edge  of  my  Travel  curiosity.  Cheerfully 
would  I suri’ender  it  to  be  with  you. 

Same  City  and  Hotel, 

Sunday,  April  13,  1890. 

This  has  been  an  interesting  day.  After  Breakfast  I walked  to 
the  Landing  of  the  Parramatta  Steamers  and  took  one  up  that  River 
to  the  Town  of  the  same  name,  situated  on  or  near  it,  distant  from 
Sydney  sixteen  miles. 

Parramatta  is,  next  to  Sydney,  the  oldest  Town  in  Australia.  It 
has  been  and  is  a sleepy  place ; and  whilst  Sydney  has  grown  with 
its  suburbs  to  more  than  three  hundred  thousand,  its  cotemporary  is 
satisfied  with  its  six  or  eight. 


SYDNEY  TO  PARRAMATTA. 


277 


We  left  at  eleven  o’clock,  and  the  little  Steamer  was  full,  dressed 
in  their  best  clothes,  going  out  to  spend  Sunday  in  the  Country.  The 
Morning  was  very  cleai’,  bright  and  cool,  and  the  steam  through  and 
across  the  Harbor  beautiful — Steamers  like  our  own  scudding  hither 
and  thither  with  their  crowded  Decks.  Tlie  City  stretched  around 
us  on  every  hand,  built  upon  the  inlets  and  coves  of  the  Port,  which 
your  Map  will  show  you,  give  an  indescribable  variety  of  outline  to 
the  famous  Harbor.  The  wet  weather,  during  which  more  water  has 
fallen  than  for  many  years,  has,  though  this  is  the  Autumn,  given  a 
richness  to  the  verdure  rivalling  the  Spring.  I could  not  have  visited 
Australia  at  a more  propitious  time,  or  with  a more  auspicious  season, 
and  to-day  we  had  it  in  perfection.  Receding  from  the  City,  the 
Villas  and  Country  Houses  claimed  recognition  on  either  hand,  sur- 
rounding the  arms  of  the  Harbor,  and  reaching  up  the  Parramatta 
River,  making  the  scene,  what  it  claims  to  be,  one  of  the  most  attrac- 
tive in  Australia,  or  the  World. 

For  probably  twelve  miles  this  continued,  to  a Landing  called  Ryde, 
I think,  and  then  the  banks  of  the  River  became  flat  and  the  Country 
low,  and  in  some  places  marshy,  and  had  little  scenic  interest.  I 
talked  to  the  passengers  and  gathei’ed  information.  I was  interested 
to  know  where  the  fine  yellow  stone  came  from  of  which  such  a num- 
ber of  the  handsome  edifices  in  the  City,  of  which  I have  already  spoken, 
are  built.  The  quarries  in  close  proximity  were  pointed  out  to  me — 
equal  seemingly  to  the  supply  of  any  quantity,  and  a great  blessing, 
for  the  furnishing  of  such  durable  and  handsome  material  in  the  City’s 
adornment. 

There  were  some  large  Hotels  upon  the  banks,  but  my  informant 
said  that  bathing  in  the  open  Harbor  was  dangerous,  being  infested 
with  Sharks,  and  numerous  fatalities  had  occurred  from  their  vora- 
cious propensities.  The  water  looks  so  quiet  and  friendly,  set  in  its 
lovely  rim,  that  one  would  hardly  suppose  it  hid  such  fierce  enemies. 
But  Sydney  Harbor  is  not  alone  in  this  World  of  ours,  in  the  union 
of  the  bitter  and  the  sweet,  the  dangerous  and  the  beautiful. 

In  the  vicinity  of  Ryde  is  the  Boat  Race  Course,  and  we  had  an 
opportunity  of  seeing  the  Scullers  out  in  numbers,  preparing  for  the 
Contest.  It  was  a pretty  sight  to  see  the  brawny  fellows  drive  their 
clean  cut  Craft.  The  Race  comes  off  in  a few  weeks,  I think,  and  it 
is  hard  to  tell  which  interests  the  Australian  the  more — this  or  the 


278 


LETTER  NO.  13. 


Horse  Race ; for  both  attract  great  throngs,  and  are  the  sole  living 
topic  of  conversation  wherever  you  go. 

Reaching  the  Landing,  which  is  the  head  of  the  navigation  of  the 
River,  it  quite  effectually  playing  out,  a Steam  Tram  Train  was  there 
to  convey  us  to  the  City,  two  or  three  miles.  Here  I visited  the 
Park,  not  much  to  speak  of,  in  improvement,  though  quite  large. 
Near  the  Entrance  Gateway  stands  a small  Shaft  by  a tree,  both 
enclosed  with  an  Iron  Fence,  which  bears  the  inscription,  that  in  1847 
Sir  John  Fitzroy  and  Lady  Fitzroy,  his  wife,  he  at  the  time  being 
Governor  of  the  Colony,  were  thrown  from  their  Carriage  against  this 
tree  and  killed.  I then  strolled  about  the  quiet  Town,  in  which  I 
saw  nothing  worthy  of  note,  and  by  the  half-past  one  o’clock  Train 
returned  to  Sydney. 

Dismounting  at  the  Station  in  Sydney,  I was  making  my  way  to 
the  Domain  and  Park,  when  I observed  a Steam  Tram  marked,  For 
Botany.  I resolved  to  run  down  five  or  six  miles,  and  see  the  noted 
spot,  where  Cook  first  landed  and  where  subsequently  England  estab- 
lished a Penal  Colony,  and  where  in  after  years  Botany  Bay  earned 
a cruel  reputation  for  merciless  suffering  in  the  infliction  of  Human 
punishment. 

Noticing  a big  crowd  aboard,  on  inquiry,  I was  informed  that  there 
was  a Concert  every  Sunday,  and  the  people  were  going  to  attend  it. 
The  City  and  its  suburbs  extended  the  whole  distance,  showing  how, 
wherever  you  go  about  it,  you  see  its  enlargement.  The  Grounds 
around  the  Head  of  the  Bay  have  been  enclosed  and  beautified ; on 
them  are  a Hotel  and  a Pavilion.  I was  not  interested  in  these.  I 
wanted  to  see  the  Historic  Botany  Bay.  And  a good  opportunity 
was  afforded.  Passing  through  the  Grounds,  to  the  Shore,  I had  a 
full  view  of  its  entire  Basin,  and  of  the  Ocean,  through  the  Headlands 
opposite.  Such  scenes,  full  of  History,  or  its  twin  Sister,  Romance, 
afford  me  far  more  of  pleasiu’e  and  interest  than  the  Music  of  a Con- 
cert. I,  therefore,  let  it  play  and  sing  on,  whilst  I talked  with 
an  old  fellow  on  the  Shore  about  the  surroundings.  He  called  my 
attention  to  the  Column  erected  in  honor  of  Cook,  on  the  left  Head- 
land entering  the  Bay,  where  he  claimed  the  New  Land  for  England’s 
Majesty;  on  the  Right,  the  spot  where  La  Perouse,  the  French  Navi- 
gator, landed,  who  was  subsequently  lost,  no  one  knows  how  or 
where,  but  whose  memory  is  cherished  by  his  Countrymen,  constantly 
bringing  flowers  to  decorate  the  sjDot  where  he  landed.  The  Bay  is 


SYDNEY. 


279 


a land-locked  Basin,  save  the  opening,  of  which  I have  spoken  ; the 
water  seemed  shallow  on  the  side  where  I stood ; but  my  informant 
said  was  very  deep  in  every  other  place,  and  was  a fine  Harbor,  where 
Vessels  could  in  safety  rest. 

Satisfied  here,  I returned  to  the  City,  and  then  visited  the  New 
South  Wales  Art  Gallery,  situated  in  the  Park.  It  is  quite  a large 
and  creditable  collection.  But  the  throngs  of  people  filling  the  Park 
interested  me  much  more.  There  were  not  only  men,  women,  and 
children  walking  about,  but  groups  were  gathered  in  spots : — some 
listening  to  a Salvation  Army  Orator — some  to  an  emissary  of  the 
Christian  Association — some  to  a Hymn  sung  by  a Choir,  with  the 
accompaniment  of  a Parlor  Organ — some  to  a Free  Thinker — some 
talking  on  Human  Rights — some  discussing  Protection — some  Free 
Trade — some  were  norating  from  the  ground  or  from  a stand,  to  the 
crowd  around  them,  large  or  small,  in  proportion  to  the  Speaker’s 
eloquence — some  were  having  a private  bout  in  controversy,  the 
listeners  gathered  to  enjoy  their  wit  and  argumentative  ability.  I 
never  in  my  life  anywhere,  out  of  Australia,  saw  such  assemblages 
of  people  on  a Sunday  Afternoon,  engaged  in  such  promiscuous  talk. 
Doubtless,  such  was  Athens,  in  the  days  of  Socrates,  when  Plato  made 
him  talk  his  wisdom  and  engage  in  controversy  upon  the  high  themes 
he  discussed  with  such  mai'vellous  power,  neglecting  in  the  meantime 
the  much-abused  Zanthippe  and  his  domestic  duties.  I wandered 
from  one  group  to  another;  but  heard  no  Socrates  or  Plato — yet  was 
often  amused  at  the  cut  and  thrust  of  the  antagonists.  It  was  a scene 
worth  witnessing,  and  was  unquestionably  Athens  in  miniature  re- 
vived. 

It  was  approaching  dusk  when  I reached  the  Hotel.  Mr.  Nead 
was  waiting  for  me,  and  produced  your  answer  to  my  Cablegram — 
a single  word  : No  ! — yet  full  of  comfort  to  me ; for  it  satisfied  me 
things  were  moving  right  with  you  all.  I will  say  nothing  further 
now ; time  will  not  permit.  I want  to  finish  this  Letter  and  leave 
it  with  the  Consul,  who  promised  to  forward  it  with  his  Official  Mail 
by  the  Zelandia,  the  first  Vessel  for  San  Francisco. 

Your  next  Letters  will  meet  me  at  Cape  Town,  care  of  Bank  of 
Africa,  whither  I told  you  to  direct  some  time  ago.  It  will  be  a long 
time  before  I get  them.  But  I wdll  forward  one  to  you,  as  hitherto, 
by  every  opportunity.  I trust  all  may  safely  come  to  hand. 


280 


LETTER  NO.  IS. 


I sincerely  hope  your  Building  troubles  are  by  this  time  ended. 
When  I return  I can  help  you  right  things  up. 

To  Margaret : You  must  be  more  particular  hereafter  about  your 
stamps.  When  I receive  the  next  batch,  may  your  missing  Letters 
be  with  them,  and  many  more.  Love  to  Doctor  M.,  Mary  and  Mag. 
The  Doctor,  I trust,  stood  his  work  with  the  Grippe,  and  is  well 
and  heartyi 

I send  by  this  Mail,  also.  Maps  for  you  and  Margaret.  I send 
them,  also,  to  Charles. 

I write  in  a great  hurry  for  the  Mail. 

With  tenderest  love  for  all, 

F. 

I enclose  this  in  three  Envelopes. 


[No.  14.] 


Same  City  of  Sydney,  and  Same  Hotel, 

Monday,  April  14,  1890. 


My  Dear  Margaret, — 


To-day  I was  busy  closing  Letter  13  to  Taylor,  which,  after  finish- 
ing, I took  to  our  Consul,  Mr.  Griffin,  who  promised  to  mail  it.  The 
Letter  is  a long  one,  in  tlu’ee  Envelopes,  and  that  together  with  some 
Maps  I sent  you  and  Charles  and  Taylor,  under  their  high  Postage 
System,  amounted  to  nearly  three  dollars.  I wish  these  Colonies 
were  in  the  Postal  Union ; that  would  not  only  render  the  charges 
less,  but  the  transmission  swifter  and  surer.  May  they  all  reach  you 
safely ! 

I was  rendered  so  uncomfortable  by  Taylor’s  Letters,  giving  an 
account  of  our  fire  misfortune  and  his  increased  troubles  thereby,  that 
I sent  a Cablegram  to  inquire  whether  I had  not  better  return  home, 
that  I might  aid  him  in  the  restoration  of  the  loss.  In  less  than 
twenty-four  hours  the  response  came,  relieving  me  of  apprehension. 
Until  it  arrived  I was  very  anxious.  Never  was  I so  impressed  with 
the  wonders  of  the  Wire.  Those  words  travelled  by  the  Route  they 
had  to  take  to  and  fro,  nearly  twice  around  the  World,  including 


SYDNEY. 


281 


stoppages  and  transfers,  in  about  twelve  or  fifteen  hours  from  the 
time  of  the  starting  of  the  Message  till  the  response  was  received.  Its 
journey  was  to  Port  Darwin,  Northern  Australia ; thence  to  Batavia, 
Java  ; thence  to  Colombo,  Ceylon  ; thence  to  London  ; thence  to  New 
York  ; thence  to  Winchester. 

I told  you  in  the  last  all  about  the  failure  of  your  Letters,  save 
one,  for  two  months,  to  come  to  me,  and  my  solution  of  the  reason. 
Your  grief,  when  you  heard  it,  was  as  great  as  mine,  I am  sure.  But 
don’t  let  us  worry  over  it  now.  I know  you  and  yours  are  well,  both 
from  Taylor’s  Letters  and  his  Cablegram  in  response  to  mine.  I 
only  pray  none  of  mine  have  miscarried,  and  that  they  have  satisfied 
you  of  my  whereabouts  and  well  doing. 

These  things,  and  engaging  definitely  my  passage  on  the  French 
Steamer,  and  paying  the  deposit  and  choosing  my  Room,  together 
with  a long  talk  with  the  Consul,  from  which  I could  not  get 
away,  consumed  the  day,  and  I have  nothing  new  to  tell  you  of 
Sydney. 

You  remember  one  of  my  Room-mates  from  Bluff  to  Hobart,  Mr. 
F.  W.  Harding,  of  whom  I think  I spoke.  I received  a Letter  from 
him  to-day,  making  ample  apology,  with  expressions  of  much  admi- 
ration, for  what  he  deemed  a rudeness  or  ill-manners.  Of  course  it 
was  all  in  his  imagination — being  a sensitive  man  and  polite  to  a 
fault.  His  offence  consisted  in  this,  as  far  as  I can  recall : His  polite- 
ness to  me  and  courtesy  had  been  unintermitting,  and  I invited  him 
to  go  to  the  same  Hotel  I proposed  to  stop  at ; and  with  his  usual 
politeness  said  he  feared  it  was  too  expensive  for  his  means.  I enclose 
the  Letter  as  one  of  the  curiosities  of  travel.  Preserve  it  with  this. 
Of  course  I responded  to  his  London  address,  which  he  gave  me  in 
his : Breutdale,  Hendon  Lane,  Finchley,  London. 

Same  City  and  Hotel, 

Tuesday,  April  15,  1890. 

To-day  I visited  the  University.  You  observe  it  and  its  Grounds 
occupying  a large  space  on  the  Map  of  Sydney  I sent.  Southwest  of 
the  Botanical  Gardens  and  Domain. 

It  is  a long  imposing  Structure,  with  wings  built  of  the  same 
yellow  stone  of  which  I have  spoken,  occupying  a high  site,  whence 


282 


LETTER  NO.  U. 


a commanding  view  of  much  of  the  City  is  obtained.  The  Grounds 
about  it  are  large  and  tastefully  improved,  and  evidently  it  is  not 
only  a handsome  but  costly  Foundation.  Much  care  and  attention 
has  been  bestowed  upon  it  of  late,  and  it  is  said  to  be  assuming  a 
position  of  high  grade. 

It  is  mixed — Boys  and  Girls.  Of  them  I saw  a number — both 
dressed  in  Oxford  Cap  and  Black  Gown  of  similar  cut — wandering 
about,  as  the  Boys  when  by  themselves  are  wont  to  do : I don’t  think 
it  at  all  a pretty  sight,  and  ominous  of  no  good  to  our  civilization. 
But  I have  hastily  given  my  views  before  in  Melbourne,  and  on 
former  Tours,  in  speaking  of  other  Institutions  of  similar  organiza- 
tion. Who  are  to  educate  the  Heroes  of  the  Country,  if  the  women 
are  to  play  Heroes  themselves  with  the  heavy  burdens  that  role  im- 
poses? 

I talked  with  some  of  the  Boys.  They  said  last  year  there  were 
few  Girls.  Many  more  this.  Unquestionably  they  will  increase, 
and  from  year  to  year  that  Chivalry  which  sprang  from  her  lofty 
position,  enthroned  an  Ideal  in  the  heart  of  the  boy  and  man,  will 
pass  away  and  both  will  thereby  suffer.  The  longer  I live,  the  better 
satisfied  I become,  that,  not  from  the  Material,  but  from  the  Spiritual ; 
not  from  the  Head,  but  from  the  Heart,  the  noblest  must  come : 

“ It  is  the  Heart  and  not  the  Brain, 

That  to  the  highest  doth  attain.” 

The  Boys  admitted  some  of  them  were  smart,  and  ran  away  with 
the  honors.  I would  not  deprive  woman  of  culture ; but  I would 
not,  in  violation  of  her  very  organization,  throw  her  into  competition 
with  the  rougher  nature  of  the  man.  She  cannot  beat  him  with  a 
Bludgeon  or  Battle-axe  on  the  dusty  field  of  arms : — she  can  lead  him 
to  higher  arenas  with  a silken  cord.  But  the  day  for  these  thoughts 
seem  to  be  passing  away,  and  soon  Materialism  in  every  sphere  of 
Life  will  be  triumphant. 

On  my  way  back,  I observed  that  the  Battle  of  Gettysburg  was 
on  Exhibition  in  Cycloramic  form,  and  went  to  see  it.  You  have 
all,  who  read  these  Letters,  seen  it  in  our  Country  at  one  time  or 
another  I believe,  and  I will,  therefore,  not  attempt  to  describe  it,  or, 
indeed,  make  any  comment. 


SYDNEY  TO  BATHURST. 


283 


Bathurst  and  Sydney, 

' Wednesday  and  Thursday,  April  16  and  17,  1890. 

These  two  days  have  been  spent  in  a trip  to  Bathurst  and  back. 
This  City  is  West  of  Sydney,  over  the  Blue  Mountains.  The 
Railway  is  regarded  as  quite  an  Engineering  feat,  in  ascending  and 
descending  grade,  which  is  done  by  zig-zag  on  both  sides  of  the 
Mountain. 

After  leaving  Sydney,  the  Country  is  rolling,  and  the  Road  in 
following  its  countour,  ranges  in  elevation  from  thirty-two  to  one 
hundred  and  eighty  feet.  But  the  true  climb  of  the  Mountains  begins 
about  thirty-five  miles  from  Sydney,  though  they  appear  on  the  West 
and  Northwest  horizon  some  time  before,  of  deep  Blue  like  our  own 
Ridge,  and  not  unlike  it  in  appearance  in  certain  portions  of  its 
reach. 

Immediately  before  beginning  the  ascent,  we  traverse  the  Emu 
Plains,  through  which  flows  the  Nepean  River,  that  we  cross  upon  a 
fine  Iron  Bridge.  These  Plains  extend  on  either  hand,  thick-strewn 
with  Farms,  and  Orchards,  and  Orangeries,  a beautiful  and  luxuriant 
sight,  for  the  recent  rains  have  made  vegetation  green  and  fresh. 
Then  we  begin  to  ascend  by  zig-zag  in  three  or  four  miles  more  than 
five  hundred  feet,  the  while  the  Country  opening  below  us,  threaded 
by  the  River, — a Landscape  not  undeserving  of  its  reputation. 

Continuing  to  rise,  the  everlasting  Gum  or  Eucalyptus  Tree  Forest 
or  Bush  borders  us  on  either  hand  with  its  numberless  varieties — a 
by  no  means  fascinating  scene,  and  interesting  only  to  the  traveller 
from  being  specially  characteristic  of  Australia.  Still  going  up,  we 
attain  an  elevation  in  forty  miles  of  more  than  thirty-six  hundred 
feet,  the  atmosphere  meanwhile  partaking  more  and  more  of  the  tonic 
of  the  upper  regions.  All  along  are  Villas  and  country  Summer 
homes — some  simple,  some  costly — whither  the  people  fly  from  Sydney 
heats.  In  this  vicinity,  too,  off  from  the  Road,  are  Waterfalls  and 
Cascades,  and  Glens  and  Caves,  to  which  many  Tourists  go,  either 
because  they  have  never  seen  such  objects,  or  because  it  is  “ the  thing 
to  do.”  Not  prompted  by  either  of  these  motives,  I did  not  feel  in- 
clined to  stop  and  spend  several  days  in  wandering  among  them.  I 
have  seen  so  many  of  such  things  in  every  part  of  the  World,  that  I 
did  not  think  I could  add  much  to  my  travel  knowledge ; I certainly 


284 


LETTER  NO.  U. 


would  not  to  my  travel  pleasure.  The  Jenolan  Caves  especially  are 
quite  celebrated,  but  to  be  reached  by  Coaching  and  walking.  Now 
I would  rather  see  the  Country  and  the  people  of  Australia ; for, 
really,  after  my  experience,  there  is  no  Country  that  has  less  of  the 
esthetic  to  show  than  the  great,  mainly  flat,  Continent-Island  of 
Australia. 

These  Blue  Mountains  stretch  along  the  Northeast-Southwest  trend 
of  Australia’s  Coast — your  Map  will  show  you  ; not  unlike  our  own 
Appalachian  Chain.  But  the  Eastern  Watershed  furnishes  no  mag- 
nificent Rivers,  like  those  with  us,  which  find  their  outlet  in  the 
Atlantic.  The  largest  Rivers  in  Australia  have  their  sources  in  these 
Mountains,  but  drain  its  Western  Watershed — chiefly  the  Murray, 
with  its  affluents  ; the  Murrumbidgee — the  g pronounced  soft,  like  g 
in  Gipsy ; the  Lachlan,  and  the  Darling,  or  Macintyre,  with  their 
branches.  These  Rivers  catch  the  waters  of  a great  Plateau,  which 
inclines  from  the  Mountains  West-Southwest,  and  in  their  flow  some- 
times are,  in  dry  weather,  merely  threads ; sometimes  in  rainy,  are 
roaring,  devastating,  monstrous  currents,  which,  like  the  Mississippi 
in  its  wrath,  destroy  all  before  them.  Such  is  the  Darling  now,  from 
the  accounts  we  receive  from  day  to  day : sweeping  off  in  its  flood 
Cattle,  Sheep  and  Towns.  Bourke,  a town  upon  it,  and  the  terminus 
of  this  Road,  is  saved  now  only  by  an  embankment,  which  at  any 
moment  may  be  carried  down. 

The  Rivers  I have  named  debouch  through  the  Murray  into  the 
Southern  Ocean.  But  there  are  some  which  never  reach  the  Sea; 
they  flow  into  interior  Lakes,  like  Carson  and  Humboldt  on  our 
Western  Plains,  of  which  I told  you  in  my  first  Tour,  or  are  dried 
up  by  the  heat,  or  swallowed  up  by  the  sands  of  that  torrid  region, 
much  of  which,  and  that  to  the  Westward,  is  either  unknown  or  desert, 
beyond  the  reach  of  tillage. 

We  descend  from  this  elevation  by  another  zig-zag  of  six  hundred 
and  eighty-seven  feet  in  five  miles.  This  is  called  the  great  zig-zag, 
and  is  a beautiful  piece  of  Engineering  and  work.  We  came  in  sight 
of  Bathurst  some  time  before  we  arrived — conspicuously  located  in 
the  centre  of  an  extensive  rolling  country.  The  Morning  pi’omised 
badly  for  the  weather,  but  the  day  advancing,  it  improved ; being 
fine  for  travelling — and  our  advent  to  the  City,  one  hundred  and  forty- 
five  miles  from  Sydney,  was  accompanied  by  a brilliant  Sunset. 


BATHURST. 


285 


Driving  to  the  Hotel,  I found  it  thronged  with  people,  and  was 
told  an  Agricultural  Fair  was  going  on,  and  the  Town  was  crowded 
— another  unhappy  meeting  with  what  I had  had  such  a quantity  of 
since  my  arrival  in  New  Zealand  and  Australasia.  The  Proprietor 
told  me  it  was  impossible  to  give  me  a Room  ; even  his  floors  were 
occupied  with  shake-downs ; but  he  hoped  after  awhile  he  could  make 
me  comfortable.  I took  my  Dinner  with  him,  and  at  table  had  much 
talk  with  a young  Australian.  After  Dinner  a gentleman  kindly 
informed  me  he  was  about  to  leave,  and  I could  have  his  bed.  We 
went  to  the  Proprietor,  who  said  it  was  already,  and  had  been  before 
my  arrival,  promised  to  a gentleman  who  had  been  sleeping  on  the 
floor ; but  he  would  order  me  a Cab  and  I could  drive  to  a Boarding 
House  highly  recommended,  where  he  hoped  I could  be  comfortably 
accommodated.  I went  and  was  cordially  received,  and  though  not 
fond  of  Boarding  Houses,  found  a nice  family  and  had  a pleasant  stay. 

In  the  morning  at  the  table  I met  a Mr.  Glasson,  an  old  gentleman 
from  Cornwall,  England — a big,  burly,  sensible  man,  with  whom  it 
was  pleasant  and  pi’ofitable  to  talk.  I had  intended  to  return  to 
Sydney  by  the  Morning  Train  on  Thursday,  but  determined  to  remain 
over  and  see  the  people  and  the  Fair;  the  day  opened  with  such  a 
bright  Sky  and  delicious  temperature.  The  Boarding  House  is  on 
high  ground,  and  from  it  I could  see  over  the  Town  and  the  sur- 
rounding country  ; the  former  containing  about  eight  thousand  people, 
but  regularly  laid  out,  well  built,  and  spread  over  an  extensive  area; 
the  latter  the  finest  agricultural  region  I have  seen,  well  fenced,  and 
cultivated  principally  in  grain,  and  now  green  and  luxuriant  looking 
in  the  extreme. 

Mr.  Glasson  and  I walked  to  the  Fair  Grounds  and  strolled  about 
among  the  Exhibits.  Being  a Squatter  and  a Stock  man,  he  could 
inform  me  about  the  various  Breeds  and  Exhibits,  and  their  adapta- 
bility to  the  country,  and  the  profitableness  of  the  business.  The 
principal  Breed  of  Sheep  is  the  Merino — more  valuable  because  of 
their  wool  and  hardiness.  He  was  very  communicative,  and  told  me 
the  story  of  his  life,  and  how  from  poor  beginning  he  and  his  had 
prospered  since  his  emigration  here  more  than  thirty  years  ago.  I was 
not  impressed  with  the  Stock — Horses,  Cattle  or  Sheep.  I think  we 
make  an  Exhibit  at  our  Winchester  Fair  quite  its  equal;  rather, 
indeed,  its  superior ; and  thus,  also,  with  the  rest  of  the  Exhibit — 
our  Ladies’  Department  much  superior. 


286 


LETTER  NO.  I4. 


Mr.  Glasson  called  away,  I wandered  alone.  Coming  to  an  Exhibit 
of  Wines  and  Preserved  Fish,  the  man  having  them  in  charge  called 
me  up  and  insisted  upon  my  tasting  of  his  Exhibits,  especially  his 
Australian  Orange  Wine — out  of  which  grew  a long  talk  about 
American  and  Australian  Wines  in  comparison  with  European.  He 
was  a Spaniard,  but  spoke  English  perfectly,  and  knew  his  subject ; 
and  our  conversation  became  interesting  to  me  and  instructive.  He 
had  a number  of  other  things  on  Exhibition,  and  he  took  me  around, 
talking  as  we  walked ; and  he  seeming  to  become  interested,  kept 
with  me  ; and  when  at  last  I left  the  building,  deserting  his  Exhibits, 
and  leaving  his  customers  to  take  care  of  themselves,  accompanied  me 
over  the  Grounds,  talking  all  the  while.  I do  not  know  what  he 
saw  in  me  so  fascinating. 

I strolled  over  the  Town — save  the  Fair,  a quiet  place.  In  it 
there  is  a lai’ge  and  excellent  Court  House,  and  a new  Poman  Cath- 
olic Church  and  Convent  of  considerable  proportions,  and  many  excel- 
lent business  houses  and  private  residences,  and  is  regarded  as  the 
second  City  in  the  Colony  of  New  South  Wales. 

Mrs.  Street  is  the  name  of  the  Lady  in  charge  of  the  Boarding 
House — an  intelligent,  educated  Lady;  and  when  not  wandering 
around,  she  together  with  her  family,  made  my  time  comfortable  and 
pleasant ; especially  after  Dinner,  we  gathered  in  the  Parlor,  and 
they  listened  to  my  Travel  talk  till  half-past  nine  o’clock,  the  time 
for  me  to  leave  for  the  Train.  I went  to  the  Ticket  Office  to  secure 
a Sleeper.  The  Station  Master,  the  Station  Agent,  the  Inspector  of 
Public  Schools  of  Bathurst,  and  a gentleman  whose  name  I did  not 
hear,  were  present.  We  engaged  in  conversation,  and  in  a little  while 
drifted  into  high  themes.  The  unknown  gentleman  was  a free  thinker, 
and  launching  boldly  out,  gave  expression  to  his  views,  and  before  I 
was  conscious  of  it,  I had  taken  the  floor  and  grappled  him.  They 
stood  and  listened  most  attentively  whilst  I talked,  and  became  more 
excited  than  myself.  The  Train  was  delayed  nearly  an  hour,  for 
some  reason  or  other,  and  during  this  time  our  talk  continued.  My 
adversary  was  very  smart,  though  not  so  well  armed  and  equipped 
as  myself,  and  soon  he  was  discomfited  and  the  field  was  mine.  When 
the  Train  arrived,  and  the  hour  for  my  departure  came,  the  Station 
Master,  by  this  time  enthused,  as  were  the  other  auditors,  seized  my 
Satchel,  declaring  he  would  carry  it  to  the  Sleeper,  and  look  after 
my  Berth  for  me,  which  he  did,  saying,  when  he  bade  me  Good  Bye, 


HA  WKESB  URY  RI VER. 


287 


he  would  like  me  to  return,  that  he  might,  to  the  best  of  his  ability, 
show  me  attention  worthy  of  my  position  and  learning,  and  brilliant 
powers  of  speech.  This  was  exceedingly  complimentary  and  unex- 
pected, for  I was  simply,  unconsciously  to  myself,  letting  the  great 
subjects  speak  themselves,  not  thinking  of  any  effect,  nor  desiring  it. 

I had  a comfortable  night’s  rest ; reached  here  at  about  half-past 
six  in  the  morning,  took  a Cab,  and  was  soon  again  in  my  Room, 
where  I am  writing  these  lines. 

Same  City  and  Hotel, 

Friday  and  Saturday,  April  18  and  19,  1890. 

Friday,  I did  not  leave  the  City — simply  strolled  about  its  streets 
and  prepared  for  other  outings.  Saturday,  I devoted  to  a trip  up  the 
Hawkesbury  River,  honored  with  the  title  of  the  Australian  Rhine. 
I travelled  on  one  of  Cook’s  Excursion  Tickets — his  Office  is  nearly 
opposite  to  the  Hotel.  Such  a trip,  composed  of  several  links  of 
different  modes  of  conveyance,  is  rendered  more  convenient  and  sure 
by  his  arrangements. 

Leaving  the  City  by  the  Northern  Train  at  nine  o’clock,  I went 
to  the  Hawkesbury  River,  a distance  of  thirty-six  miles,  crossing 
the  Parramatta  on  the  Bridge  near  Ryde,  of  which  I spoke  on  my 
Excursion  up  that  River.  From  that  time  to  the  Hawkesbury,  or 
Brooklyn,  or  Peat’s  Ferry,  for  it  is  called  by  all  three  names,  the 
Road  traverses  the  Bush  or  Forest,  which  from  the  size  of  its  growths 
indicates  poverty  of  soil.  Yet  at  times  the  scene  is  striking  all 
around,  the  trees  prevailing  without  break,  especially  when,  from 
elevations, — the  Road  rising  from  five  to  seven  hundred  feet — looking 
Westward,  the  rolling  foliage  extended  seemingly  unbroken  to  the 
Blue  Mountains,  bounding  the  horizon.  There  is  scant  cultivation 
anywhere  in  view. 

At  the  River,  descending  from  the  Car,  by  a walk  along  the  em- 
bankment on  which  the  Train  runs  before  it  reaches  the  Bridge  which 
spans  the  River,  we  came  to  the  Landing  of  the  Little  Steamer,  which 
carried  us  to  Sackville  Reach  on  the  upper  waters  of  the  Hawkes- 
bury. This  River  is  made  up  of  the  Grose  and  the  Nepean,  which, 
you  remember,  we  saw  the  other  day  traversing  and  beautifying  the 
Emu  Plains.  The  Folding  Card  and  Map  of  Cook  I sent  you  with 
ray  last  Letter  will  enable  you  accurately  to  follow  me. 


288 


LETTER  NO.  U. 


The  distance  to  Sackville  Reach  is  fifty-two  miles.  The  River 
narrows  whilst  we  ascend,  appearing  like  the  Parramatta  to  be  more 
an  Inlet  of  the  Sea,  and  a continuation  of  Broken  Bay,  as  that  River 
is  of  Port  Jackson — Sydney’s  Harbor.  The  Scenery  is  good,  but  too 
much  of  it : if  it  had  been  half  as  long,  it  would  have  been  twice  as 
good.  On  either  hand,  the  entire  distance,  were  high  lands  covered 
with  Bush,  the  elevations  of  varied  outline,  and  picturesque,  but 
having  no  claim  whatever  to  comparison  with  the  Rhine.  Now  and 
then,  on  the  low  grounds,  or  in  nooks,  were  homes,  with  patches  of 
cultivated  land — the  houses  humble  and  the  area  of  production  small. 
The  chief  growths  were  Indian  Corn  and  Oranges : the  former  of  a 
kind  we  would  regard  a bad  crop  ; the  latter,  though  cultivated,  poor 
in  comparison  with  those  I have  seen  in  Florida.  But  you  have, 
doubtless,  heard  me  say,  or  I have  remarked  on  other  of  my  Tours, 
that  I have  never  seen  Corn  grow  anywhere  in  the  World  to  the 
proportion,  either  of  stock  or  grain,  that  it  does  on  our  best  lands ; 
nor  have  I ever  seen  the  Orange  cultivated  like  the  Groves  of 
Florida. 

The  Bush,  too,  grows  upon  poor,  rocky  hills,  and  of  no  value,  from 
its  size  and  species,  for  Lumber ; nor  were  it  cut  off  or  destroyed, 
would  it  leave  any  soil  exposed  fit  for  the  plough.  Whether  it  could 
be  utilized  for  Vineyards  I do  not  know;  for  I saw  no  evidence  any- 
where of  an  effort  in  that  direction. 

If  the  length  of  the  Steamer’s  run  had  been  fifteen  or  twenty  miles, 
it  would  have  been  more  interesting;  but  fifty -two  miles  were  too 
much,  and  one  is  wearied  by  the  sameness.  There  is  no  great  variety 
in  the  inlets  and  gulches,  and  open  areas  which  make  the  Landscape, 
and  the  eye  has  no  relief.  To  a low-Country  man,  accustomed  to 
the  flats  and  plains,  some  enthusiasm  might  be  aroused ; but  to  one 
who  has  seen  Nature  luxuriating  in  strength  and  beauty,  the  Hawkes- 
bury  is  not  a success. 

At  Sackville  Reach,  Cook’s  Excursionists  found  a Coach  ready  to 
take  them  to  Windsor,  ten  miles  across  the  Country,  where  we  reached 
a Station  on  the  Rail.  Tliere  were  six  of  us,  and  we  had  plenty  of 
room  and  a pleasant  ride  in  a good  vehicle  and  over  a good  road.  It 
was  after  dark,  and  the  Southern  Celestial  Hemisphere  was  ablaze 
with  Stars.  I must  name  again  the  Southern  Cross,  which  I have 
learned  greatly  to  admire.  Here  it  mounts  into  the  Zenith,  and  is, 
in  the  brilliantly  clear  Sky,  a brilliant  Constellation,  with  its  Corona, 


SYDNEY. 


289 


its  Pointers,  and  itself,  thick  studded  with  nebulae  in  the  Milky  Way. 
I will  never,  however  imperfect  its  form,  underrate  again  the  glorious 
Southern  Cross.  It  must  be  seen  in  its  own  Celestial  Hemisphere  to 
recognize  how  it  is  here  enthroned,  the  Chief  of  its  Constellations, 

We  took  Supper  at  Windsor,  on  our  Excursion  Ticket,  and  then 
came  on  by  Train,  reaching  here  at  ten  o’clock,  a distance  of  thirty- 
six  miles — a total  circuit  of  one  hundred  and  thirty- four  miles — with 
the  delightful  weather,  a pleasant  jaunt. 

Of  course  I had  much  talk  with  different  people  : one  a gentleman 
from  London  ; he  gave  me  his  card — Robert  G.  West,  Manager  of  a 
Bank — about  Banking  in  Australia,  and  the  effect  of  its  Institutions 
on  the  present  and  future  prosperity  of  the  Colonies  ; and  two  Ladies, 
one  old,  the  other  young,  gi’eat  travellers,  also  Londoners,  about  their 
Travels  and  mine;  the  older,  an  intelligent,  well-informed  woman; 
the  younger  equally  so,  who  had  resided  in  South  Carolina ; and  both 
warm  friends  of  the  South,  claiming  to  know  the  superiority  of  its 
people,  and  their  culture,  and  freely  expressing  their  admiration  and 
sympathy — to  which  I listened,  naturally,  with  ready  ear. 

The  Papers  in  Australia  have  been  commenting,  some  sevei’ely, 
some  jocosely,  on  a Cablegram  informing  the  Antipodes  that  the  State 
of  Virginia  has  passed  a Law  legalizing  Prize  Fighting.  Legisla- 
tures now-a-days  do  such  queer  things,  that  I could  neither  admit 
nor  deny  ; Virginia  not  being  exempt  of  late  years  from  the  charge 
of  singularity,  to  put  it  in  the  mildest  form. 

Same  City  and  Hotel, 

And  on  Way  to  Brisbane  by  Rail, 

Sxmday,  April  20,  1890. 

This  Morning  my  new  English  Banker  Friend  called  to  see  me,  to 
get  me  to  give  him  information  about  a trip  across  the  Continent — 
he  proposing  to  return  to  the  Old  Country  by  the  United  States. 
Of  course  it  gave  me  pleasure  to  comply. 

Our  Consul,  Mr.  Griffin,  called  to  see  me,  also,  and  spent  several 
hours,  and  we  had  much  talk  about  the  Colonies,  and  other  subjects. 

I determined  yesterday  to  go  to  Brisbane  by  Rail.  I can  return 
in  time  for  our  Steamer,  which  sails  on  the  26th  of  this  month.  I 
must  utilize  my  time,  having  seen  Sydney  and  the  objects  of  interest 
around.  I cannot  utilize  that  time  better  than  by  visiting  the  Colony 
19 


290 


LETTER  NO.  U. 


of  Queensland  and  its  Capital.  I saw  the  Station  Master  yesterday, 
and  he  said  he  would  be  at  his  Post  at  ten  o’clock  to-day,  and  if  I 
would  telephone  him,  he  wonld  secure  me  a Berth  in  the  Sleeper, 
The  Proprietor  telephoned  for  me,  and  the  matter  was  promptly 
attended  to. 

When  I went  to  the  Station  he  met  and  escorted  me  to  the  Sleeper, 
and  saw  me  comfortably  fixed  for  the  Journey,  leaving  Sydney  at 
seven  o’clock  in  the  Evening. 

From  Sydney  to  Brisbane  Rail, 

Sunday,  Monday,  Tuesday,  Wednesday,  Thursday, 

A'pril  20,  21,  22,  23,  24,  1890. 

From  Sydney  to  Brisbane  is  seven  hundred  and  twenty-two  miles, 
a long,  continuous  ride  by  Rail.  I left  Sydney  at  seven  o’clock, 
p.  m.  on  Sunday,  taking  the  Sleeper  at  once,  and  having  a comfortable 
night’s  rest : the  Sleeper  after  Pullman’s  fashion.  Early  on  Monday 
Morning  I changed  to  a Compartment  Sitting  Car,  of  the  English 
Coach  pattern,  and  on  Monday  Evening  again  took  a Sleeper  at 
Wallangarra,  on  the  borders  of  the  Colonies  of  New  South  Wales 
and  Queensland,  and  arrived  in  Brisbane  at  six  o’clock,  a.  m.,  Tues- 
day— two  nights  and  a day  of  continuous  travel.  It  is  four  hundred 
and  ninety  miles  from  Sydney  to  Wallangarra,  and  two  hundred  and 
thirty-two  from  Wallangarra  to  Brisbane. 

My  fellow-passengers  on  Monday  were  agreeable  people,  and  the 
hours  passed  pleasantly  and  profitably  to  me.  Among  them  was  a 
Captain  of  Volunteers,  returning  to  his  home  from  a Colonial  Encamp- 
ment near  Sydney.  He  was  a clever  fellow,  and  jovial,  and  gave  me 
what  I wanted  to  know  about  the  domestic  soldiers  and  soldiering. 
The  Volunteers  in  the  Colony  of  New  South  Wales  are  organized 
into  Field  and  Line,  amounting  to  two  Brigades,  and  are  convened 
for  nine  days,  once  a year,  in  Camp,  to  undergo  the  hardships  of  war 
and  learn  the  noble  Art.  Another  was  a Major  of  the  English  Reg- 
ulars, stationed  in  Ceylon,  now  travelling  on  furlough.  The  talk, 
under  my  direction,  drifted  into  fields  where  they  had  information, 
and  I conferred  upon  them,  without  suspecting  my  intent,  the  univer- 
sal gratification  of  talking  upon  what  one  knows  best : the  Australian 
Volunteer  telling  me  of  the  Country  through  which  we  were  passing, 
and  where  he  resides,  and  of  his  hopes  and  aspirations  for  the  future 


SYDNEY  TO  EEISBANE. 


291 


of  the  Island  Continent ; the  British  Regular  giving  his  views  of  the 
stability  of  English  Rule  in  the  Orient,  and  how  she  will  hold  India 
in  spite  of  Russia,  esteeming  altogether  too  lightly  the  danger  from 
Russia’s  power,  and  the  insecurity  of  England’s  rule  in  Hindoostau. 

Your  Map  will  show  you  the  trend  of  the  Road  : seeking  North- 
ward Newcastle  on  the  Coast,  one  hundred  and  two  miles,  and  then 
diverging  Northwest  via  Maitland,  a flourishing  place,  contesting 
with  Bathurst  the  next  position  to  Sydney  in  number  of  inhabitants. 
At  a place  called  Murrurundi,  two  hundred  and  seventeen  miles  from 
Sydney,  the  Road  crosses  the  Mountains,  a continuation  of  the  Blue 
Mountains  we  crossed,  you  remember,  farther  South  in  going  to 
Bathurst,  and  here  called  the  Liverpool  Range,  reaching  on  the  West 
an  elevated  plateau  denominated  the  Liverpool  Plains,  lying  from 
twelve  to  fifteen  hundred  feet  above  the  Sea,  much  of  it  regarded  favor- 
ably for  pastiu’e  or  tillage.  Passing  over  these  Plains  we  come  to  a 
region  called  New  England,  and  the  Road  again  seeks  Northeastward 
the  Mountains,  and  ascending  them,  moves  almost  due  North  along 
their  trend,  traversing  a great  Plateau  for  more  than  four  hundred 
miles  through  New  South  Wales  and  into  Queensland — from  fifteen 
hundred  to  upwards  of  four  thousand  feet  above  the  Sea — at  one  point, 
Ben  Lomond  reaching  four  thousand  four  hundred  and  seventy-one. 
From  a place  called  High  Fields,  in  Queensland,  of  about  fifteen 
hundred  feet  elevation,  not  quite  two  hundred  miles  West  of  Bris- 
bane, it  descends  continuously  to  that  City.  Here  are  the  famous 
Darling  Downs,  the  so-called  “Garden  of  Queensland.” 

I am  at  a loss  to  know  why  the  Road  should  thus  pursue  the 
Mountain’s  Crest  for  such  a number  of  miles.  On  the  lower  gi’ounds 
we  traversed  much  of  it  was  in  cultivation.  I observed  many  fields 
in  Corn,  but  of  a growth  we  would  call  a poor  crop ; much  in  Wheat 
and  Potatoes  looking  well.  The  elevated  Mountain  Plateau  was 
in  Bush  and  Grass,  through  and  over  which  Sheep  and  fine  Cattle 
ranged.  The  areas  were  divided  by  substantial  Rail  and  Wir6  fences. 
The  Bush  or  Forest  in  many  places  was  jjrimeval — if  a sorry  growth 
of  Eucalypti  can  be  dignified  with  that  noble  word — often,  the  trees 
were  belted  or  burned,  or  both,  and  stood  the  skeletons  of  their  former 
selves,  a common  sight  I have  told  you  in  Australia.  Underneath 
them  was  a thick  growth  of  Grass,  well  set  and  green  from  the  inspi- 
ration of  the  luxuriant  season,  and  evidently  of  good  quality  for  food, 
for  the  animals  were  fat  and  sleek.  But  these  are  the  Domains,  as 


292 


LETTER  NO.  U. 


are  likewise  the  lower  Plains,  I was  informed,  where  frightful  droughts 
sometimes  prevail,  and  the  abundant  pasturage  is  turned  to  tinder, 
and  Sheep  die  by  the  thousands. 

I told  you  of  the  vast  fields  of  Tussock  in  New  Zealand.  I have 
seen  scarce  any  of  it  in  Australia,  a few  small  areas  on  my  trip  to 
Ballarat.  This  grass  is  not  unlike  our  own  blue  or  lawn  grass,  and 
certainly  most  excellent  food  in  such  a Season  as  we  are  having  here, 
judging  from  the  animals’  kelter. 

Towns  and  Villages  are  scattered  through  the  Country,  generally 
grouped  about  the  Stations,  built  of  frame  and  of  the  same  Australa- 
sian style  of  Architecture  which  I have  hitherto  described  ; and  taken 
all  in  all,  I would  say  the  people  are  well  lodged.  The  scenery  can 
hardly  be  classed  among  the  very  high.  Now  and  then  a pretty  cul- 
tivated little  Landscape  would  open  in  the  lower  Country.  On  the 
elevated  Plateau,  where  Mountains  rose  above  the  general  level,  they 
never  attained  to  anything  called  grand — almost  invariably  clad  in 
Bush ; sometimes  of  sterile,  rocky  soil ; sometimes  clothed  in  grass 
such  as  I have  spoken  of,  and  evidently  fertile ; and  here  and  there 
the  piles  of  upturned  earth,  indicating  the  search  for  precious  stones 
and  metals;  but  the  Bush  or  Forest  itself  almost  entirely  of  the 
melancholy  Gum  Tree,  only  varied  by  its  ever  melancholy  varieties. 
I must  not,  however,  leave  the  impression  that  this  tree  is  always 
thus  gruesome.  Some  of  its  individual  growths  are  among  the  largest 
on  the  Earth,  rivalling,  if  not  surpassing,  the  Sequoia  Gigantea,  the 
Big  Trees  of  California.  One  of  them  was  supposed  to  have  been, 
when  standing,  five  hundred  feet  in  height;  thus,  though  not  equal- 
ling in  girth  the  Big  Trees,  surpassing  every  one  of  them  in  height, 
or  any  other  tree  that  man  has  come  across.  Some  of  these  are  still 
standing  on  the  Southern  face  of  the  dividing  range  in  the  Colony  of 
Victoria,  North  of  Gippsland,  I am  told. 

When  I reached  Brisbane  early  on  the  morning  of  Tuesday,  I took 
a Cab  dr  Hansom,  and  with  my  Satchel  drove  at  once  to  the  Imperial 
Hotel,  where  I chose  a Room  and  fixed  up  and  rested  till  Breakfast ; 
after  which  I inquired  of  the  Proprietor  about  my  acquaintances ; 
Colonel,  now  Judge,  Mein,  whom  you  remember  well  on  my  First 
Tour,  and  whom  I deeply  regret  not  seeing,  and  who  lives  four  miles 
in  the  Country ; but  the  Court  House,  where  he  has  his  office,  is 
just  opposite  the  Hotel ; Professor  Shelton,  you  know,  I met  on  the 
Steamer  coming  to  take  charge  of  the  Agricultural  Department  of 


BRISBANE. 


293 


Queensland,  now  lives  in  Brisbane,  and  the  Land  Department  Build- 
ing, in  which  the  Proprietor  supposed  he  had  his  Office,  adjoins  the 
Court  House. 

I went  out  to  look  for  them.  On  inquiring  at  the  Court  House,  I 
learned  that  Judge  Mein  was  absent,  holding  Court  at  Rockhampton, 
a distant  place.  His  dwelling  was  too  far  out  for  me,  with  my  limited 
time,  to  call  on  Mrs.  Mein.  Going  to  the  Land  Office,  I was  told  that 
Professor  Shelton  had  his  Office  in  the  Agricultural  Building,  in 
another  part  of  the  City.  I walked  there,  but  learned  that  he  had 
gone  on  a long  tour  of  inspection  through  the  Colony,  and  would 
not  be  back  for  some  time.  One  other  acquaintance  was  left  me — 
Mr.  Sinclair  Rowney,  the  Bookseller,  you  remember,  whom  I travelled 
with  in  New  Zealand,  and  who  was  untiring  in  his  courtesy  and  at- 
tention. He  received  me  with  the  utmost  cordiality,  and  ordered  a 
Carriage,  the  hire  of  which  I insisted  upon  paying,  but  which  he  would 
not  listen  to.  We  drove  over  the  City  and  into  the  surrounding 
Country,  visiting  the  local  points  of  interest.  Whilst  at  the  Agri- 
cultural Department  one  of  the  gentlemen  there  showed  me  their 
specimens,  and  being  near  the  Museum,  I also  visited  that,  an  excellent 
collection,  quite  varied  and  well  preserved.  I am  struck  with  the 
creditable  Museums  these  new  Countries  and  Cities  have  gathered 
with  much  diligence  and  expenditure  of  money ; an  admirable  thing 
to  preserve  the  data  for  the  future  Scientist  and  Historian  of  the 
Country. 

Not  far  off  from  the  Museum,  on  one  side,  is  the  New  Treasury 
Department,  a building  of  white  stone,  which  when  finished  will  be 
a most  creditable  affair ; and  on  the  other,  some  few  hundred  yards 
away,  the  Domed  Houses  of  Parliament,  also  of  stone,  which  they  are 
adding  to,  both  overlooking  and  not  far  from  the  River. 

My  good  Friend  took  me  everywhere  in  the  four  or  five  hours  we 
drove : the  Botanical  Gardens,  the  Government  House,  the  Parks, 
old  and  new,  the  Streets,  hither  and  thither,  the  high  grounds  within 
or  beyond  the  City  limits,  whence  I could  see  how  the  River  Bris- 
bane, a bold,  fine  stream,  coils  through  the  town  like  a spiral,  forming 
two  or  three  horse-shoes,  within  which  the  Houses  are  gathered.  The 
City,  with  its  fifty  thousand  people,  is  handsomely  located:  some 
of  it  on  the  River’s  banks,  which  now  and  then,  when  flushed  with 
recent  rains,  overflows ; some  on  high  ground,  far  above  it  in  its  wild- 
est flood.  Among  the  Houses,  here  and  there  conspicuous  Edifices 


294 


LETTER  NO.  U. 


are  seen  : the  Catholic  Cathedral;  a Presbyterian  Church,  handsomer 
still,  with  its  Gothic  spire ; and  not  a few  Private  Residences  or 
Business  Houses,  indicating  thrift  and  its  reward.  I was  told  not 
to  look  for  much  in  Brisbane ; my  observation  was  agreeably  dis- 
appointing. The  River  on  which  it  stands,  twelve  or  fifteen  miles 
from  the  Sea,  is  of  larger  import  than  I thought;  Vessels  drawing 
seventeen  and  eighteen  feet  can  come  safely  to  the  Wharves,  they  told 
me.  My  drive  was  profitable  and  pleasant.  It  threatened  rain  when 
we  started ; proceeding,  the  clouds  drifted  off,  and  left  us  sunlight 
and  delicious  breezes.  My  Friend  procured  me  some  data,  which  he 
said  would  enable  me  to  estimate  the  resources  and  promise  of  Queens- 
land, and  its  Capital. 

It  was  Lunch  time  when  I returned  to  the  Hotel,  and  I invited 
my  Friend,  who  is  a Bachelor,  to  join  me;  but  he  pleaded  business 
engagements.  There  was  Roast  Pig  promised  on  the  Bill  of  Fare, 
and  I,  maybe,  imprudently  fulfilled  the  promise;  and  soon  I agonized, 
and  spent  the  afternoon  in  vacating  it.  If  I had  Charles  Lamb  near 
by,  the  Gentle  Elia  would  have  suffered  at  my  hands  for  beguiling 
me  with  his  story  of  the  Celestial  taste  and  fragrance  of  the  harmless 
Roaster;  or  if  I had  had  some  of  the  Wine  which  I fell  upon,  or  which 
fell  into  me,  in  Leipsic,  at  Auerbach’s  Kellar,  you  remember,  I would 
again  have  tested  its  potent  virtues  in  a similar  affliction.  But  hav- 
ing neither  the  charming  Elia  to  vent  my  spite  upon,  nor  the  nectar 
from  the  famous  Vault,  I just  let  the  trouble  alone,  and  it  had  to 
cure  itself ; and,  sure  enough,  did.  For  fear  of  being  delayed,  how- 
ever, which  the  near  departure  of  the  Steamer  now  forbids,  I went 
early  to  the  Station  and  laid  down  in  my  Berth,  where  my  kind 
Friend  Rowney  found  me,  when  he  came  to  bid  me  Good  Bye  ! A 
sound  night’s  rest  on  the  Rail  healed  my  wounds,  and  when  the 
morning  came  I was  myself  again. 

[I  wrote  to  Mr.  Rowney  on  my  return  home,  in  recognition  of  his 
great  kindness  and  courtesy,  and  received  the  following  Response, 
which  contains  matter  of  sufficient  interest  to  print  as  part  of  the 
Tour : 


BRISBANE— LETTER  FROM  SINCLAIR  ROWNEY. 


295 


EOWNEY  BROTHERS, 

WILLIAM  EOWNEY.  SINCLAIR  ROWNEY. 

Importers  of  Books  and  Stationery, 

Printers  and  Bookbinders. 

Brisbane,  May  15,  1891. 

Hon.  Fred.  W.  M.  Holliday, 

My  Dear  Governor, — My  delay  in  answering  your  welcome  Letter 
was  caused  by  my  being  poisoned  from  Gas  escaping  from  a nail  hole 
in  the  Pipe  under  my  Bed-room  floor.  I have  no  sense  of  smell, 
consequently  had  three  nights  of  it  before  I was  told  about  the  cause 
of  my  illness.  I was  a week  only  from  business,  but  have  not  felt 
well  since,  and  never  have  I felt  the  same  inveterate  dislike  to  Letter 
writing  as  I have  since  my  illness. 

We  had  a visit  from  my  Sister,  Mrs.  Ritchie,  since  you  were  here. 
She  sends  her  respects  and  kind  wishes  to  you,  and  was  glad  you 
enjoyed  your  Tour.  Queensland  is  looking  her  best — plenty  of  rain, 
good  Crops,  fat  Cattle,  and  splendid  Sheep ; still  everybody  is  com- 
plaining of  dull  times.  Now  why  is  this  so?  Every  one  I speak  to 
about  it  says  that  the  Strikes  are  the  cause  of  it.  Well,  that  may  be 
partly  true,  but  I have  come  to  the  conclusion  that  the  real  mischief 
lies  in  Land  Booms.  An  allotment  in  Queen  Street  was  sold  for 
seven  hundred  pounds  per  foot  frontage — the  purchaser  borrowing 
the  money  to  pay  for  it  at  six  or  seven  per  cent.  But  as  he  cannot 
get  it  in  Queensland  at  less  than  six  per  cent — say  six ; 

Tiventy-five  feet,  at  seven  hundred  per  foot,  is  - ^^17,500 

Say  the  Building  cost  -----  3,500 

Here  you  have  a total  cost  of  - _ _ £21,000 

Interest  at  six  per  cent  amounts  to  twelve  hundred  and  sixty  pounds, 
or  twenty-four  pounds,  five  shillings  a week.  The  population  of 
Brisbane  and  suburbs  is  about  seventy  thousand,  and  the  whole  of 
Queensland  about  four  hundred  and  thirty  thousand.  Compare  the 
above  prices  with  those  of  your  Cities  of  the  same  size,  and  I think 
you  will  agree  with  me  that  three  hundred  pounds  per  foot  is  a very 
high  price  for  any  Land  in  Brisbane. 


296 


LETTER  NO.  U. 


We  have  had  a great  many  failures  since  you  were  here,  caused  by 
over  speculation  in  Land  and  in  Gold  Mining.  Unregistered  Bills 
of  Sale  have  been  given  ; the  holder  has  taken  possession,  very  much 
to  the  disgust  and  great  loss  of  the  confiding  Creditor.  A Bill  of  Sale 
is  legal  here  as  soon  as  it  is  signed ; but  there  is  a good  deal  of  agi- 
tation at  present  over  what  appears  to  be  swindles,  and  insisting  that 
the  Bill  of  Sale  Act  be  repealed. 

I am  Posting  a Tourist’s  Guide  to  you,  in  hopes  you  may  glean 
information  from  it. 

I am  most  truly  yours, 

Sinclair  Eowney.] 

My  company  in  the  compartment  of  the  seated  Coach  during  the 
daylight  ride  was  a Lady,  with  her  servant  and  three  children  ; but 
she  was  a Lady,  and  whilst  her  time  was  taken  up  in  feeding  them 
with  all  sorts  of  things  she  had  with  her  in  Tiffin  Baskets,  and,  there- 
fore, could  not  talk  with  me,  whenever  a fresh  package  was  opened, 
it  was  tendered  me,  and  I was  not  allowed  to  be  disturbed  in  any  way 
by  the  brats. 

About  nightfall,  at  a place  called  Werris  Creek,  I again  took  a 
Sleeper ; and  after  another  comfortable  night’s  rest,  reached  here  at 
six  o’clock  this,  Thursday,  morning,  and  came  to  my  Room,  where  I 
am  writing  these  lines,  hale  and  hearty  as  when  I started  on  the  four 
days’  and  nights’  long  jannt. 

The  remainder  of  the  day  I spent  in  finally  arranging  for  my  pass- 
age on  the  Steamer  Australien  of  the  Messageries  Maritimes — French 
Line.  She  is  a very  large  and  fine  Ship,  seven  thousand  five  hun- 
dred tons,  the  largest  upon  which  I have  ever  travelled.  The 
Agents  have  been  exceedingly  polite  and  have  given  me  a State-Room 
to  myself,  and  promised  every  attention  and  courtesy  for  a hapjiy 
voyage.  We  sail  on  Saturday,  day  after  to-morrow,  at  three  o’clock 
in  the  afternoon.  The  line  of  travel  is  from  Sydney  to  Melbourne, 
thence  to  Adelaide,  thence  to  King  George’s  Sound,  and  there  leav- 
ing Australia,  direct  to  the  Island  of  Mah6,  one  of  the  Seychelles,  a 
Group  North  of  Madagascar,  distant  from  Sydney  six  thousand  and 
three  miles.  Here  we  will  change  Steamers,  making  sharp  connec- 
tions with  another  of  the  same  Line  and  proceed  to  the  Island  of 
Mauritius,  and  thence  to  Natal  and  Cape  Town.  My  journey  now 


SYDNEY. 


297 


on  is  Homeward,  and  every  day  and  hour  will  bring  me  nigher  to 
you  all.  Doubtless,  that  to  you  is  joyful  news. 

I have  told  you  of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Nead.  They  at  one  time  thought 
of  going  direct  to  Europe  via  Suez ; but  have  determined  to  accom- 
pany me.  They  are  accomplished  travellers,  having  been  abroad  for 
nearly  five  years,  peregrinating  the  World.  Maybe  I have  mentioned 
they  are  Philadelphians,  and  people  of  wealth  ; and  he  is  active  and 
intelligent,  and  gathers  information  of  every  sort  needful  to  a tourist ; 
indeed,  quite  spoils  me,  for  I don’t  bother  about  preparation,  he 
making  all  arrangements  and  pi’ovisos  for  me.  I think  I will  find 
them  most  agreeable  and  useful  companions.  Since  I have  been  at 
this  Hotel,  we  have  occupied  the  same  table,  together  with  a Mrs. 
Smith,  wife  of  a Purser  on  one  of  the  Vessels  of  the  Orient-San 
Francisco  Line,  and  a Mr.  Kennedy  and  Mr.  Wheeler,  two  young 
Canadians,  connected  with  New  York  Insurance  Companies,  intelli- 
gent and  educated  gentleman — a pleasant  company.  Now  and  then 
we  are  joined  by  Mr.  Booth  and  his  Wife,  who  live  a short  distance 
in  the  Country.  He  was  once  a famous  Temperance  Lecturer ; now, 
also,  an  Insurance  Agent,  an  agreeable,  gentlemanly  man. 

This  afternoon,  Mrs.  Morse,  wife  of  Captain  Morse  of  the  Ala- 
meda, with  whom,  you  remember,  I had  such  a delightful  Voyage 
from  San  Francisco  to  Auckland,  and  a Miss  Firth,  of  this  City, 
called  to  see  me  at  the  Hotel.  Miss  Firth  was,  also,  one  of  the 
passengers,  and  I then  made  her  acquaintance.  Mrs.  Morse  remained 
over  one  sailing  in  Sidney.  They  said  they  had  been  inquiring  for 
me,  wondering  where  I was;  and  meeting  with  Mrs.  Smith,  she  told 
them  I was  here,  and  they  determined  to  come  and  see  me,  thinking 
it  unreasonable  to  expect  me  to  call  on  them.  It  was  very  considerate 
and  kind.  Mrs.  Morse  said  the  Captain  had  recovered  from  the 
Grippe,  with  which,  you  remember,  he  was  sick  coming  out ; but  a 
Cablegi’am  had  been  received,  stating  that  his  Ship  had  been  detained 
again  in  San  Francisco  waiting  for  the  English  Mails;  but  it  did  not 
say  whether  the  delay  was  on  the  Atlantic  or  across  the  Continent. 

Sydney,  Australia,  Empire  Hotel, 

Friday,  April  25,  J 890. 

I will  now  close  this  Letter  and  leave  it  with  our  Consul,  to  for- 
ward by  the  next  Mail  to  San  Francisco.  Whilst  I travel  to  you 


298 


LETTER  NO.  H. 


AVestward,  it  will  be  hurrying  with  news  for  you  Eastward.  I will 
continue  to  write  and  send  Letters  by  every  opportunity.  But  curi- 
ous transformation — my  Letters  soon,  by  the  rotundity  of  the  Earth, 
will  no  longer  come  from  the  Setting,  but  will  reach  you  from  this 
time  on  from  toward  the  Risino;  Sun. 

I am  at  a loss  to  know  what  to  tell  you  about  your  Letters  to  me. 
I have  never  been  so  bothered  on  any  Tour,  owing  to  the  long  links 
of  travel  and  the  infrequency  of  the  Mails,  some  Letters  cannot 
overtake  me  on  the  Route.  I have  therefore  resolved  to  tell  you, 
after  the  receipt  of  this,  to  write  to  me,  care  of  the  old  address  of  my 
Second  Tour ; Brown,  Shipley  & Co.,  Founder’s  Court,  Lothbury, 
E.  C.,  London,  England,  When  I get  to  Cape  Town  I hope  to 
receive  a batch,  which  will  meet  me  from  you  all  there,  and  cheer  me 
up.  No  Letters  can  now  overtake  me  before  I reach  Cape  Town. 
My  Memorandum  shows  that  in  Letter  No.  11  to  you  in  February,  I 
request  you  *to  write  to  Cape  Town,  care  Bank  of  Africa.  I,  of 
course,  expect  to  stop  in  England  only  long  enough  to  take  Steamer 
thence  to  New  York ; but  the  receipt  of  your  regular  Letters  there 
will  advise  me  of  yourselves  and  brighten  my  voyage  home.  Maybe, 
too,  your  missing  Letters  may  come  along  and  give  me  cheer.  I do 
not  know  where  I shall  land  in  England  from  Cape  Town — I mean 
the  Steamer’s  terminus  of  run  ; but  further  on  can  learn,  and  telegraph 
Brown,  Shipley  & Co.  to  forward.  Notify  Charles  of  this. 

I hope  you  are  all  well,  and  things  are  going  smoothly  with  you 
and  with  Taylor  at  the  Old  Home.  I have  had  him  on  my  mind 
constantly,  and  wished  I was  at  home  to  help  him  in  righting  up  the 
fire  damages.  By  this  time,  however,  he  is  through  his  troubles,  I 
doubt  not,  and  things  are  moving  smoothly  again.  How  is  the 
Doctor?  I hope  he  got  through  the  Winter  pleasantly,  and  also 
Mary  and  Mag. 

I must  now  close  this  and  take  it  to  the  Consul’s,  and  start  it  to 
you. 

Love  to  Cousin  Mary  and  Cousin  Fred.  I hope  they  are  doing 
well.  And  kind  remembrances  to  our  Neighbors  and  all  inquiring 
friends. 

With  tenderest  love  for  all, 

F. 


SYDNEY. 


299 


[No.  15.] 


Sydney,  Austkalia,  Empire  Bank, 

Friday,  April  25,  1890. 


My  Dear  Mary, — 


This  morning  I finished  Letter  No.  14  to  yonr  Mother,  and  mailed 
it  through  our  Consul  to  your  Uncle  Taylor.  It  will  not  leave  till 
the  regular  Steamer  for  San  Francisco,  on  May  14 ; but  I thought  it 
safer  to  commit  it  to  him  to  forward  with  his  own  and  Official  Mail 
than  to  the  Post  Office.  This  Letter  I will  send  on  by  the  French 
Steamer  Australien,  which  I take  to-morrow,  when  I leave  her  at  the 
Island  of  Mahe.  My  further  course  thence  I have  explained  to  your 
Mother  in  my  last  Letter. 

The  Consul  was  absent  from  his  Office  when  I went,  but  the  mat- 
ter was  attended  to  by  the  Vice-Consul,  who  promised  the  Letter 
should  go  without  fail  by  the  next  Steamer  to  California.  These 
Colonies  being  out  of  the  Postal  Union,  the  rates  are  very  high.  It 
would  be  interesting  to  you  to  know  that  the  Letter  cost  one 
dollar  in  postage ; the  last,  in  three  Envelopes,  cost  three  dollars — 
one  each. 

Whilst  at  the  Consul’s  Office,  Mr.  James  Wilson,  head  of  the  Com- 
mei’cial.  Pastoral  and  Agricultural  Association  of  New  South  Wales, 
came  in  with  several  bundles  of  Documents,  saying  he  had  brought 
them  at  the  Consul’s  request  for  Governor  Holliday.  The  Vice- 
Consul  told  him  I was  the  gentlemen,  and  introduced  us;  where- 
upon we  had  a conversation  about  Australia  and  her  destinies. 
I expressed  my  opinions  pretty  freely,  and  for  an  hour  or  so  we 
talked,  they  listening  attentively,  and  expressing  approval  of  my 
views.  Mr.  Wilson  invited  me  to  his  Office,  near  by,  where  he 
showed  me  numerous  Maps,  setting  out  the  topography  of  New  South 
Wales  : showing  her  Mineral  resources,  the  Artesian  Wells  that  have 
been  bored,  the  rainfall  in  various  localities  in  series  of  years,  the 
regions  invaded  by  the  Rabbits  and  their  spread,  and  the  Pastoral 
and  Agricultural  occupancy  and  resources. 

I have  alluded  to  the  lay  of  the  Country  and  its  River  drainage, 
and  how  their  water  is  dried  up  by  the  Sun,  or  disappears  in  Inland 


300 


LETTER  NO.  15. 


Lakes,  never  reaching  the  Sea.  Under  the  reasonable  inference  that 
the  water  seeks  subterranean  outlets  to  the  Ocean,  as  in  the  Canter- 
bury Plains,  New  Zealand,  or  in  South  America  on  the  Western 
Coast,  of  which  I told  you  in  my  Travels  there,  they  have  dug, 
West  of  the  Mountain  Range,  numerous  Artesian  Wells,  which  in 
volume  of  flow  have  quite  confirmed  their  inferences.  This  suc- 
cess has  given  the  people  of  the  Colony  hopes  that  one  day  they 
will  be  able  to  obviate  the  terrible  effects  of  the  droughts  to  which 
they  are  liable,  and  render  safer  their  profits,  both  of  Pasturage  and 
Agriculture. 

The  Rabbits  I have  not  spoken  of  in  Australia,  though  I had  such 
a quantity  to  say  of  them  in  New  Zealand.  This  has  been  not  because 
they  do  not  exist  here,  but  because  in  my  travels  I have  not  come 
across  them ; they  have  not  prevailed  in  the  sections  I have  visited. 
But  Mr.  Wilson’s  Maps  showed  me  how  first  turned  loose  in  Victoria, 
they  have  progressed  with  amazing  rapidity  through  New  South  Wales 
and  Queensland,  spreading  terror  wherever  they  have  gone.  Immense 
sums  of  money  have  been  appropriated  and  spent  by  their  respective 
Governments  in  building  wire  fences,  of  which  I told  you ; but  up 
to  this  time  seemingly  without  avail — they  still  “ go  marching  on.” 
They  have  yet  discovered  no  certain  exterminator  or  I’emedy.  I spoke 
of  the  Rabbitter  and  the  value  of  both  the  skin  and  carcass  in  New 
Zealand,  and  the  almost  absolute  certainty,  I thought,  of  the  Rabbit’s 
fate  in  those  Islands.  I also  spoke  of  the  difficulties  in  Australia, 
owing  to  the  less  value,  by  reason  of  the  climate,  both  of  the  skin 
and  carcass,  and  their  greater  fecundity.  These  conclusions,  I learn 
here,  are  well  drawn,  and  Mr.  Wilson  could  suggest  no  hopeful 
outcome  from  the  difficulty.  He  gave  me  a number  of  papers  to 
read  upon  the  various  subjects  which  come  under  the  supervision 
of  his  Bureau,  which  he  was  sure  would  afford  me  pleasure  and 
enlightenment. 

I insert  a few  extracts  from  various  sources  to  give  you  some  idea 
of  how  this,  with  us,  harmless  creature  has  in  the  Antipodes  grown 
into  such  a frightful  pest,  with  the  beginning  of  a pair  in  the  Colony 
of  Victoria.  They  have  advanced  Northward  across  New  South 
Wales  aud  into  Queensland,  scattering  fright  and  ruin  in  their  pro- 
gress— more  terrible  than  an  Army  with  Banners. 


A USTBALIA— BABBITS. 


301 


“ Rabbits  in  Australia. 

HOW  THEY  HAVE  INCREASED,  AND  EFFORTS  AT  EXTERMINATION. 

The  San  Francisco  Chronicle  says  : 

“ I am  deeply  interested  in  the  extermination  of  Rabbits  in  Aus- 
tralia and  New  Zealand,  and  am  on  my  way  to  those  Colonies  to 
watch  the  passing  of  the  new  Act  in  New  South  Wales,”  said  Charles 
W.  Kent,  of  London,  last  night. 

“You  would  like  some  statistics?  To  commence  with,  on  careful 
calculation  it  is  now  settled  that  two  Rabbits  in  ten  years  will  mul- 
tiply to  70,000,000.  That  is  a moderate  figure.  .Rabbits  have  par- 
ticular advantage  for  thriving  in  Australia,  and  have  used  those 
advantages  for  forty  years,  since  they  were  introduced.  In  , New 
South  Wales,  the  Government  expended  over  $4,000,000  from  1883 
to  1890  endeavoring  to  extei’minate  them.  Besides  that,  a greater 
sum  has  been  expended  in  private  moneys.  In  one  year,  25,250,000 
skins  had  royalty  paid  upon  them. 

“ Now,  there  is  another  side  to  this  question  of  extermination,  and 
that  is  the  Rabbit  killer’s  and  the  Rabbit-skin  dealer’s  interest.  A 
killer  gets  2 cents  a head  royalty  from  the  Government  for  destroy- 
ing the  animal’s  life.  He  then  sells  the  skin  at  from  4 to  6 cents. 
On  the  meat,  at  the  canning  factories,  he  averages  2 to  4 cents.  It 
is  a nice,  easy  way  of  making  money.  The  skins  are  bale-pressed 
and  exported  to  London.  In  that  City  there  is  a general  auction  sale 
of  skins  every  six  weeks.  The  sales  average  from  1,500  to  2,000 
bales,  and  the  average  to  a bale  is  200  skins. 

“ There  are  ten  companies  in  Australia  and  four  in  New  Zealand 
engaged  in  the  Rabbit-skin  trade.  Of  these,  one-half  add  the  meat- 
canning to  their  business.  You  will  understand,  therefore,  that  there 
is  a big  monopoly  which  is  not  at  all  anxious  to  see  the  Rabbits 
exterminated.  Interested  with  it  is  a very  large  number  of  the  popu- 
lation, who  find  Rabbit-killing  more  remunerative  and  less  hard  work 
than  farming. 

“ Pasteur  endeavored  to  exterminate  the  Rabbits  by  inoculation 
with  chicken  cholera.  It  is  well  known  to  those  behind  the  scenes 
that  he  did  not  get  a fair  trial,  and,  in  fact,  was  so  hindered  and 
hampered  that  he  withdrew  his  agents  from  further  experimenting. 


302 


LETTER  NO.  15. 


“ The  question  has  come  u[)  before  the  Government  again,  and  a 
bill  is  now  before  the  Sydney  Legislature  asking  for  a vote  to  build 
a brick  wall  entirely  around  the  Agricultural  boundary  of  the  Colony 
of  New  South  Wales.  Rabbits  will  not  burrow  lower  than  two  and 
a-half  feet,  and  it  is  proposed  to  sink  the  wall  to  that  depth.  The 
wall  being  once  built,  a general  extermination  of  Rabbits  within  that 
inclosure  will  be  commenced  and  carried  through.  The  other  Colo- 
nies will  watch  the  experiment  with  great  interest,  and  if  it  succeeds, 
will  ])robably  all  follow  suit.  Such  a course  would  confine  the  Rab- 
bits to  the  great  Austi’alian  Bush,  in  whose  sandy  deserts  they  would 
soon  die  out. 

“ What  use  is  made  of  all  these  Rabbit  skins?  Why,  the  hat  on 
your  head  is  made  of  them.  The  hair  is  plucked  ofP  the  pelt  by  hand. 
A fortune  awaits  the  man  who  can  invent  a machine  to  do  it.  A fine 
blue  fur  is  then  left  on  the  pelt.  The  skin  is  then  pared  away  from 
the  fur  by  delicate  machinery — machinery  so  fine  that  when  the  last 
paring  is  cut  ofF  the  fur  sometimes  hangs  in  one  filmy  section.  This 
is  worked  up  into  felt.  Ordinary  hats  are  made  from  Rabbit  skin. 
A better  class  is  made  from  Hare  skin.  The  best  are  made  from 
Nutria,  a kind  of  Water  Rat  trapped  in  Buenos  Ayres,  and  then  come 
Beaver  and  Musquash,  obtained  in  the  United  States  and  Canada. 
The  Cowboy  wants  the  best  hat  in  the  World,  and  as  he  pays  for  it 
he  gets  it.  The  Nutria  Felt  stands  wet,  and  remains  stiff-brimmed 
after  soaking,  because  it  is  made  from  the  fur  of  a water  animal. 
The  American  Jack-rabbit  is  of  no  use  at  all  to  the  trade.  The 
English  Rabbit  supplies  the  best  fur,  like  silk,  but,  of  course,  not 
water-proof.  Then  comes  the  New  Zealand  Rabbit,  followed  by  the 
Australian. 

“ We  used  to  export  hats  in  quantity  from  England  to  America, 
but  now  the  Americans  can  dress  skins  as  well  as  the  English,  and 
they  make  all  their  own  hats,  importing  the  fur  from  us,  of  course. 
I do  not  understand  why  the  United  States  does  not  import  Rabbit 
skins  direct  from  Australia,  seeing  the  enormous  quantity  which  it 
buys  from  England.  At  a rough  guess,  I should  calculate  the  United 
States  manufactures  65,000  hats  every  day,  while  England  manu- 
factures about  40,000.  The  largest  hat  manufactory  in  the  World 
is  the  Brussels,  which  turns  out  10,000  hats  a day. 

“ Why  am  I interested  in  the  extermination  of  Rabbits  in  Aus- 
tralia? Well,  I am  interested  in  one  of  the  chief  fur  companies  in 


A USTBALIA—JiABBITS. 


303 


London,  and  we  want  to  see  our  English  Rabbit  protected  against 
the  marvellously  multiplying  Australian  competitors.” 


“Australia’s  Pest. 

TWENTY  MILLION  DESCENDANTS  FROM  ONE  PAIR  OF  RABBITS 
WMTHIN  FIVE  YEARS. 

The  plague  of  Rabbits  in  Australia  cannot  be  described  without 
seeming  exaggeration  to  those  who  have  not  had  experience  of  it,  says 
an  article  in  Scribner.  Originally  introduced  in  a Colony  of  about 
a score  of  individuals  by  a Squatter  near  Melbourne,  who  thought 
their  familiar  presence  on  his  station  would  “ remind  him  of  home,” 
they  have  kept  the  recollection  of  England  so  fresh  in  the  minds  of 
Pastoralists  to  tempt  them  to  very  treasonable  language  concerning 
her  whenever  Rabbits  are  mentioned. 

The  fecundity  of  the  Rabbit  is  amazing,  and  his  invasion  of  remote 
districts  swift  and  mysterious.  Careful  estimates  show  that  under 
favorable  conditions  a pair  of  Australian  Rabbits  will  produce  six 
litters  a year,  averaging  five  individuals  each.  As  the  otfspring 
themselves  begin  breeding  at  the  age  of  six  months,  it  is  shown  that, 
at  this  rate,  the  original  pair  might  be  responsible  in  five  years  for  a 
progeny  of  over  20,000,000.  That  the  original  score  which  were 
brought  to  the  Country  have  propagated  after  some  such  ratio  no  one 
can  doubt  who  has  seen  the  enormous  hordes  that  now  devastate  the 
land  in  certain  districts.  In  all  but  the  remoter  sections,  however, 
the  Rabbits  are  now  fairly  under  control ; one  Rabbitter  with  a pack 
of  dogs  supervises  stations  where  one  hundred  were  employed  ten 
years  ago,  and  with  ordinary  vigilance  the  Squatters  have  little  to 
fear.  Millions  of  the  animals  have  been  killed  by  fencing  in  the 
water-holes  and  dams  during  a dry  season,  whereby  they  died  of  thirst 
and  lay  in  enormous  piles  against  the  obstructions  they  had  frantically 
and  vainly  sti'iven  to  climb,  and  poisoned  grain  and  fruit  have  killed 
myriads  more.  A fortune  of  £25,000,  offered  by  the  New  South 
Wales  Government,  still  awaits  the  man  who  can  invent  some  means 
of  general  destruction  ; and  the  knowledge  of  this  fact  has  brought  to 
the  notice  of  the  various  Colonial  Governments  some  very  original 
devices.” 


304 


LETTER  NO.  15. 


“It  is  estimated  that  the  increase  in  Rabbits  in  Australia  during 
the  last  three  years  is  about  13,000,000.  The  experts  state  that 
89,000,000  acres  are  now  infested  with  the  plagues.  In  the  dry 
Country  the  Rabbits  have  taken  to  eating  wood,  particularly  the  ten- 
der bark  of  the  scrub  vegetation.  By  so  doing  they  destroy  a large 
means  of  keeping  the  Sheep  alive  in  long  periods  of  drought.” 


In  the  afternoon  I took  a small  Steamer  and  went  down  the  length 
of  the  Harbor,  to  near  its  outlet  into  the  Sea,  and  then  turned  North- 
Northwest,  up  Middle  Harbor,  its  largest  Inlet.  I had  thus  not  only 
a fine  view  of  Port  Jackson — the  entire  Harbor  below  Sidney — but 
of  this,  also,  its  most  beautiful  section.  I was  not  disappointed. 
Middle  Harbor  is  the  finest  bit  of  scenery  I have  come  across  in 
Australia,  and  the  entire  trip  quite  equalled  my  anticipations  of  the 
whole.  One  of  the  Maps  I sent  you  gives  an  admirable  outline — not 
unlike  a Lizard  : its  head  the  outlet  to  the  Ocean,  its  body  the  Main 
Harbor,  its  legs  exaggerated  in  size,  number  and  inequality,  the  Inlets, 
its  tail  the  River  Parramatta.  Thus,  also.  Broken  Bay,  North  of 
Sydney  Harbor,  a portion  of  which  we  traversed  on  our  visit  to  the 
Hawkesbury,  presents  a not  dissimilar  scene;  that  River  forming  the 
tail  of  the  extended  Saurian.  On  the  shores  of  Middle  Harbor  there 
is  a Picnic  Ground,  on  which  the  Duke  of  Edinburgh  was  entertained 
some  yeax’s  ago,  and  whilst  enjoying  the  festivities  was  shot  at  and 
near  being  killed.  The  spot  was  in  sight  of  and  near  the  Landing 
where  we  stopped.  The  would-be  assassin  was  tried  and  condemned 
to  death.  The  Queen  reprieved  him,  but  the  reprieve  came  too  late; 
he  was  hung  befoi’e  its  arrival  in  Austi’alia. 

After  dark  I walked  down  George  Street,  where  the  Chinese  most 
do  congregate ; they  are  not  in  that  locality  alone,  but  their  stores  and 
houses  are  sandwiched  with  the  whites.  Thei’e,  too,  I witnessed  a 
motley  scene  of  sailox’s  of  many  nationalities,  a-throwing  themselves 
away  : John  Chinaixian,  watching  to  take  them  or  any  other  body  in  ; 
Hindoos  with  that  sti’ange,  keen,  fateful  look  which  they  ever  wear ; 
Negi’oes  just  like  our  own  ; and  Mohammedans,  with  their  Oriental 
Costume,  moving  with  that  singular  air  of  confidence  with  which  the 
Pi’ophet  seems  ever  to  have  inspired  his  followers.  I wandered 
among  them  all,  with  much  interest,  for  an  hour  or  two. 


SYDNEY. 


305 


On  Board  Steamship  Austealien, 
Messageries  Maritimes  Line, 

In  Harbor  of  Sydney, 

Saturday,  April  26,  1890. 

To-day  I finished  my  packing  and  made  ready  to  start  on  another 
link  of  my  long  chain.  This  does  not  require  much  time  with  me, 
any  more  than  for  a tortoise  to  fix  up  his  house-traps  for  a move. 

Whilst  thus  engaged,  the  Consul  came  to  go  with  me  to  call  upon 
Lord  Carrington,  the  Governor  of  New  South  Wales.  He  said  he 
mentioned  to  the  Governor  my  presence  in  the  Country,  and  proposed 
to  bring  me  to  see  him.  He  replied  that  he  would  be  delighted  to 
receive  a call,  having  heard  of  my  visit  here.  I took  a Carriage  and 
we  drove  to  the  Mansion. 

You  have  seen  the  great  consideration  and  kindness  which  has  met 
me  everywhere.  Had  I accepted  the  tenders  of  hospitality  from,  to 
me,  hitherto  total  strangers,  my  whole  time  would  have  been  con- 
sumed and  Australia  been  unseen.  You  already  know  my  views 
upon  that  subject.  I will  mention  to  you  all,  to  whom  these  Letters 
are  written,  as  I would  speak  to  my  other  self,  that  I hear  constantly 
of  the  kind  things  spoken  of  by  those  who  have  met  me : of  my 
ability,  learning,  and  modesty;  and  did  I allow  it,  conspicuous  atten- 
tions would  be  shown  me.  But  that  would  not  only,  you  well  know, 
be  utterly  distasteful,  but  defeat  the  aim  and  object  of  my  travel. 

Lord  Carrington  received  me  most  cordially,  and  soon  we  were 
engaged  in  talk  about  Australia,  her  things  and  people,  and  of  ray 
own  Country,  especially  Virginia.  He  is  a man,  I should  suppose, 
of  fifty  or  fifty-five,  good-looking,  and  of  excellent,  easy  manners. 
He  is  very  popular — making  himself  agreeable  by  his  forbearance  to 
appear  important,  or  exercising  any  power;  simply  tiding  on,  doing 
Avhat  he  can,  and  more  especially  in  personal  and  social  modes,  to  make 
himself  acceptable  as  the  Bepresentative  of  the  Throne.  We  talked 
of  the  Economies  and  Politics  of  Australasia,  and  the  chief  questions 
involved  in  her  interests  and  growth.  Nothing  proceeded  from  him 
from  which  I would  infer  any  great  ability  and  learning,  but  enough 
to  judge  of  his  capacity  to  observe  the  current  of  affairs,  and  to  keep 
himself  from  troublesome  entanglements.  Whilst  we  talked,  time 
sped,  and  an  hour  had  gone  before  either  of  us  seemed  to  feel  its  lapse. 

20 


306 


LETTER  NO.  15. 


But  it  was  long  enough  for  a Morning  Call,  and  when  I moved  to 
go  he  expressed  regret  that  my  stay  in  the  Country  was  drawing  to  a 
close  and  he  could  not  see  more  of  me.  The  visit  was  a very  pleasant 
one,  but  nothing  passed  from  which  I could  gather  any  large  ideas 
of  these  Anti])odes  and  their  destiny.  The  things  and  subjects  we 
discussed,  and  I expressed  my  views  upon,  I will  probably,  before  I 
close  this  Letter,  give  to  you,  and  you  will  the  better  understand  what 
we  talked  about. 

I brought  the  Consul  to  his  office  and  we  parted,  with  many  thanks 
for  his  uniform  courtesy  and  politeness,  and  for  the  interest  he  had 
manifested,  that  I should  see  the  Governor,  and  for  an  interview. 
After  Lunch  I bade  farewell  to  Mrs.  Smith  and  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Booth  ; 
our  Canadian  friends,  Kennedy  and  Wheeler,  accompanying  us  to  the 
Boat  to  see  us  fairly  off.  My  Friends,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Nead,  came  after. 
In  a little  while  we  were  safely  aboard,  and  quartered  in  our  Rooms. 
But  no  sooner  was  this  done  than  it  was  announced  that  the  arrival 
of  a Steamer  from  the  Island  of  New  Caledonia  with  freight,  which 
had  to  be  transferred,  would  delay  us  till  to-morrow  morning  at  day- 
light, which  necessitated  our  staying  on  the  Australien  all  night. 


[When  the  Consul  and  I parted  I told  him  I would  write  on  my 
arrival  at  Home,  and  tell  him  how  the  residue  of  my  Tour  tided.  I 
did  so,  and  received  the  following  Response  : 


3Iy  Dear  Governor  Holliday, — 


Sydney,  Australia, 

October  25,  1890. 


I very  much  thank  you  for  your  kind  and  interesting  Letter.  I 
send  you  the  Australian  Hand  Book  for  1890.  It  cost  10s.  6d.,  and 
the  Po.stage  4s.  Qd. — say  altogether,  $3.66.  This  amount  you  can 
send  to  my  Daughter,  Miss  Virgiline  Griffin,  care  of  Mrs.  A.  M. 
Dunsford,  Vineland,  Jefferson  County,  Missouri,  by  Post  Office 
Order,  who  will  be  glad  to  get  it.  I wanted  to  send  you  a copy  of 
my  Book  on  New  South  Wales,  but  it  is  out  of  print.  Mr.  J.  B. 
Beauregard,  89  Market  Street,  Sydney,  managed  to  secure  100  copies, 
but  I have  been  unable  to  see  him  as  to  wliat  price  he  intends  to 
dispose  of  them. 


SYDNEY— LETTER  FROM  G.  W.  GRIFFIN. 


307 


I have  put  my  Book  on  Samoa  to  press.  Mr.  W.  G.  Markham, 
New  York,  writes  that  he  is  arranging  with  Messrs.  Lippincott,  of 
Philadelphia,  to  print  it,  and  that  its  publication  will  reimburse  me, 
in  a measure,  for  my  hardships  in  the  Islands. 

After  you  left.  Lord  Carrington  expressed  great  regret  that  your 
stay  here  was  so  short.  He  said  that  he  wished  to  show  you  more 
attention  than  he  did,  both  on  your  account  and  mine.  He  begged 
me  to  send  his  very  kind  regards  to  you.  His  Excellency  said  it  did 
him  good  to  meet  so  enthusiastic  and  able  a Champion  of  one  of  the 
proudest  Commonwealths  in  the  American  Union.  I regret  that  he 
is  to  take  his  departure  in  a few  days  for  England.  He  is  to  be  suc- 
ceeded by  Lord  Jersey.  Lord  Carrington  is  one  of  my  best  friends, 
and  to  lose  him  is  to  lose  something  out  of  my  life,  which,  at  best,  is 
far  from  being  a briglit  one. 

I am  working  harder  than  ever.  I have  just  finished  a long  Report 
on  the  Great  Labor  Strike.  I hope  you  get  the  Consular  Reports  to 
the  Government  at  Washington.  I am  sure  they  will  send  them  to 
you. 

I had  the  misfortune  to  injure  my  right  hand,  and  have  lost  the 
use  of  one  of  the  fingers,  but  amputation  was  not  necessary. 

Give  my  kind  regards  to  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Nead,  and  accept  the  same 
for  yourself,  aud  believe  me,  as  ever. 

Your  Friend, 

G.  W.  Griffik. 

I complied  with  his  request,  and  sent  the  money  to  his  Daughter. 
Waiting  some  days  and  not  receiving  a response,  and  fearing  the 
Letter’s  miscarriage,  I wrote  again  and  received  the  following  re- 
sponse, whicli  is  so  simple,  sweet,  and  unaffected,  that  there  can  be 
no  objection  to  printing  it  with  her  Father’s,  as  an  interesting  memo- 
rial of  the  Tour.  Mr.  Griffin  died  not  a great  while  after  our  delight- 
ful meeting  in  Sydney. 

De  Soto,  Mo.,  January  17,  1891. 

Dear  Qoverncrr  Holliday, — 

Your  Letter  containing  Post  Office  Order  for  $3.66  was  duly  re- 
ceived. You  must  pardon  my  negligence  in  acknowledging  receipt 
of  the  kind  favor.  To  have  a line  from  any  one  who  I know  is  a 
friend  of  my  Dear  Father,  now  so  far  away,  always  gives  me  the 


308 


LETTER  NO.  15. 


very  greatest  pleasure  and  always  finds  a ready  response.  But  this  neg- 
lect, or  rather  seeming  neglect,  could  not  have  been  obviated  ; so  you 
must  not  think  of  it  for  a moment.  Should  you  write  to  my  Dear 
Father,  please  mention  my  Letter  to  you,  but  under  no  circumstances 
mention  the  want  of  punctuality  in  replying  to  you. 

Trusting  this  may  find  you  quite  well, 

Most  truly  yours, 

ViEGiLiNE  Griffin.] 

This  is  the  largest  Steamer  on  which  I have  travelled — five  hundred 
and  ten  feet  in  length,  forty-five  in  width,  and  of  seven  thousand  five 
hundred  and  six  tonnage.  It  is  finished  handsomely,  but  not  with 
the  wasteful  and  needless  extravagance  of  some  I have  travelled  on. 
Many  of  the  Officers  and  employees  speak  English,  and  we  have  no 
trouble  whatever  with  the  Language.  It  has  three  Classes — Fir.st, 
Second,  and  Steerage — and  three  Decks.  On  the  first,  or  lower  Deck, 
are  the  State-Rooms,  or  sleeping  compartments  ; on  the  next  are  the 
Dining  and  Music  and  Social  Saloons;  on  the  third  or  upper,  are 
the  Smoking  and  Reading  Rooms,  and  of  some  of  the  Officers.  The 
second  and  third  are  fine  Promenade  Decks,  the  most  spacious  and 
delightful  I have  ever  seen.  If  the  meals  and  service  are  equal  to 
the  Ship  and  its  appointments  and  to  their  reputation,  then  travelling 
on  the  Australien  will  be  a luxury. 

Later  in  the  Evening  I strolled  ont  through  the  Botanical  Gar- 
dens, near  by  the  Landing,  and  enjoyed  myself,  looking  at  the  people 
wandering  there,  the  variety  of  trees  and  plants,  and  the  Birds  in 
Cages,  or  swimming  in  the  Pools  at  large,  and  in  breathing  the 
delightful  atmosphere,  coming  in  from  the  Harbor  which  makes  the 
Garden’s  rim. 

On  Same  Steamer, 

Between  Sydney  and  Melbourne, 

Sunday,  April  27,  1890. 

The  Ship  was  equal  to  her  promise.  At  daylight  she  was  ready, 
all  freight  stored  and  passengers  aboard.  But  at  the  hour  of  my 
proposed  departure,  the  Fog  hung  heavily  over  the  Harbor,  and  the 
Officer  was  afraid  to  start  the  big  hulk  on  her  career  through  the 
Port,  filled  with  many  crafts.  We  delayed  till  eight  o’clock,  by 
which  time  the  mist  had  gone,  and  the  Sun  was  out  to  show  us  the 


STEAMSHIP  AUSTBALIEN— SYDNEY'S  HARBOR. 


309 


beauties  of  the  scene.  Sydney  Harbor  in  its  true  phase  has  not  been 
overrated,  I concluded,  when  I went  to  Middle  Harbor  the  other  day ; 
I again  saw  it  maybe  better  to-day  from  this  Steamer’s  loftier  Deck. 
It  has  been  compared  to  the  Harbor  of  Rio,  and  the  palm,  by  its 
friends,  been  given  her  over  that ; now,  since  I have  seen  both,  I can 
speak.  They  may  well  be  compared,  without  detriment  or  disparage- 
ment to  either.  Their  respective  claims  lying  in  different  phases  of 
the  Hilsthetic : this,  with  its  many  Inlets,  all  enclosed  by  rising 
grounds  covered  with  vegetation,  and  often  adorned  with  Architecture 
and  Art,  inviting  you  hither  and  thither  with  gentle  dalliance,  is 
lovely  exceedingly ; that,  with  its  fine  imposing  Mountains  rounding 
the  majestic  Basin,  the  City  of  Rio  de  Janeiro  seated  on  its  Shox’e, 
you  think,  when  there,  cannot  be  surpassed  by  any  earthly  Land  and 
Water  scene.  Neither  jostles  nor  minifies  the  other,  in  Nature’s  glo- 
rious Realm.  This  reigns  supreme  in  the  Domain  of  the  simply 
Beautiful ; that,  in  the  Domain  of  the  Grand.  This  is  Insular ; 
that,  Imperial. 

I must  say  a good  word  for  Sydney,  on  my  departure.  Sydney’s 
Harbor  has  abstracted  from  Sydney’s  fame;  the  World  talks  more 
of  the  Harbor  than  of  the  City.  Melbourne’s  booming  propensities 
and  push  have  made  her  conspicuous,  and  to  be  talked  about  at  the 
expense  of  her  sister  town.  One  hears  much  more  of  the  former  than 
the  latter,  and,  consequently,  is  apt  to  infer  the  latter’s  inferiority. 
But  this  is  not  the  case.  Having  seen  both,  Sydney  is  much  the 
finer  City.  It  is  more  substantially  built,  having  quarries,  under  or 
near  it,  of  admirable  stone,  which  enable  it  to  construct  more  endur- 
ing and  elegant  Edifices.  Its  water  front  is  almost  unparalleled. 
Seated  on  the  lovely  Inlet  which  it  embraces  North  and  South, 
seven  miles  from  the  Ocean,  it  commands  a water  frontage  for  almost 
any  draught,  of  more  than  fifty  miles.  On  high  ground,  its  drainage 
could  not  be  better.  It  is  complained,  that  its  streets  are  cx’ooked 
and  narrow : I don’t  think  sufficiently  so  to  be  ground  of  serious 
complaint ; they  follow  the  contour  of  the  City’s  site,  and  are  well 
graded  and  paved  with  wood,  or  asphalt,  or  stone.  I have  told  you 
hitherto  of  Melbourne  and  its  troubles — which  do  not  afflict  its  rival. 
I think  Sydney  altogether  the  finest  City  of  Australasia ; and  not 
unfit  to  stand  in  comparison  with  the  finest  of  the  World. 

A splendid  morning  helped  us  between  the  Headlands,  through  a 
channel  a mile  or  more  in  width.  They  are  high,  and  look  as  if  the 


310 


LETTER  NO.  15. 


wild  Sea  had  broken  through  and  made  the  charming  Inlet  a quiet 
resting  place  for  some  of  its  turbulent  waters;  and  no  sooner  had  the 
Ship  passed  out  than  we  could  feel  through  its  huge  bulk  the  throb 
of  the  Vast  Profound.  The  day  advancing,  we  steamed  in  sight  of 
the  Coast ; staying  on  Deck  that  we  might  see  the  opening  into 
Botany  Bay,  five  or  six  miles  further  South,  which  has  nothing  strik- 
ing about  it,  being  only  a let  down  of  the  land’s  outer  rim,  hardly  to 
be  observed  without  attention  ; and  towards  the  Evening  the  wind 
sprang  up ; but  our  “ Great  Admiral  ” did  not  regard  it,  and  one 
could  walk  her  Decks,  firmly  as  on  solid  ground.  Yet  we  put  out 
more  to  Sea,  and  gave  the  Shore  wide  berth.  The  Service  and  the 
Table  of  our  Ship  are  all  one  need  wish.  I don’t  think,  in  the  many 
Ships  I have  voyaged  on,  I have  seen  any,  taken  altogether,  quite  its 
equal.  It  is  true,  there  is  no  crowd  : the  Second  Class  and  Steerage 
are  nearly  full  ; the  First  not  half;  and  having  been  jostled  for  some 
months  in  ti’avel,  it  is  delightful  to  have  plently  of  elbow  room  every- 
where. Mr.  and  Mrs.  Nead  and  I have  our  seats  together  at  one  end 
of  the  Table,  which  makes  it  pleasant. 

Seated  by  my  side  at  Table  is  a Lady  from  Melbourne,  with  whom 
I have  pleasant  talk.  She  said  she  knew  who  I was,  having  heard 
me  spoken  of  by  two  Ladies  wdio  travelled  with  me  on  the  Hawkes- 
bnry,  and  had  many  pleasant  things  to  say  about  me,  and  compli- 
mentary. I told  her  I remembered  them  with  equal  pleasure,  but 
did  not  know  their  names.  She  told  me  who  they  were,  and  said,  at 
my  request,  she  would  give  them  my  kind  recollections,  which  had 
been  as  vivid  of  them,  as  theirs  seem  to  have  been  of  me. 

On  Same  Ship,  Same  Course, 

3Ionday,  April  28,  1890. 

Out  on  Deck  early  this  morning,  I found  the  air  quite  brisk  and 
keen,  and  my  light  overcoat  comfortable.  Yet  it  was  pleasant  to 
walk  its  steady  boards. 

I read  some  of  the  Papers  your  Uncle  Taj  lor  sent — the  first  oppor- 
tunity I have  had  since  their  reception.  Among  the  items,  the  Death 
of  young  Hugh  Meem  shocked  me.  What  a frightful  blow  to  his 
poor  parents  ! The  noble  exposure  of  his  life  to  save  that  of  the 
miners  a short  time  ago,  shows  he  was  made  in  no  common  mould ; 
and  in  such  times,  such  men  are  a great  honor  to  the  Country,  and 


STEAMSHIP  AUSTBALIEN— HOBSON’S  BAY. 


311 


theii’  death  a grievous  loss.  I will  write  to  his  Father  and  Mother, 
and  tell  them  of  my  sympathy  ; and  if  your  Uncle  Taylor  sees  Gil- 
bert, he  must  say  to  him,  how  much  I feel  for  him  in  his  sore  afflic- 
tion. 

The  Shore-line  to-day  was  often  out  of  sight,  and  never  conspicu- 
ous, till  the  afternoon,  when  about  three  or  four  o’clock  we  rounded 
Wilson’s  Promontory,  the  extreme  South  point  of  Victoria — a bleak 
Headland  of  solid  isolated  Rock,  which  mounts  a Light  House ; 
around  about  it  are  other  Rocks,  and  the  Coast  for  miles  is  very 
bold,  while  off  are  numerous  bleak  Islands,  between  which  we  steamed. 
Altogether  this  Wilson’s  Promontory  is  a striking  Ocean  scene,  espe- 
cially this  afternoon,  aided  by  some  Whales  spouting  their  fountains 
in  the  air. 

I noted  in  the  Papers,  how  President  Harrison  snubbed  the  Rich- 
mond people,  who  tendered  him  civilities  on  his  passage  through  the 
City.  It  was  like  his  little  self,  and  served  them  right.  How  any 
Virginian  could  demean  himself  to  tender  any  civilities  to  one  who, 
a short  time  ago,  did  all  he  could  to  ruin  his  State  and  hand  her  over 
to  dishonor  and  misrule,  is  a mystery  to  me.  No  courtesy  ought  ever 
to  be  shown  to  him  there.  Let  him  pass  to  and  fro,  without  any 
recognition. 

We  reached  Melbourne  at  nine  or  ten  o’clock  at  night,  distant 
from  Sydney  five  hundred  and  seventy-six  miles,  and  anchored  in 
Hobson’s  Bay,  half  a mile  from  the  City. 

On  Same  Steamship, 

At  Melbouene,  Australia, 

Tuesday,  April  29,  1890. 

To-day  we  lay  off  the  City,  and  many  people  visited  us.  In 
Sydney,  by  invitation  generally  extended,  two  thousand  went  on 
board  the  Ship  to  inspect  her,  the  Officers  desiring  she  should  be 
known  to  the  English-speaking  people,  whose  custom  the  Line  is 
seeking.  The  English  Steamers  have  been  those  hitherto  patronized 
by  the  Home  People  and  the  Colonies.  The  French  are  trying, 
especially  by  this  fine  Line,  to  gather  patronage,  and  are  not  afraid 
to  show  the  grounds  upon  which  they  ask  it.  Thus,  before  we  came, 
the  Agents  in  Melbourne  had  issued  advertisements  inviting  the 
people  to  go  aboard  and  examine  the  Ship  upon  her  arrival,  providing 


312 


LETTER  NO.  16. 


Steam  Launches  to  convey  them  ; consequently,  crowds  thronged  the 
Vessel  all  day.  Flowers  and  Plants  were  brought  from  shore,  and 
the  Steamer  elaborately  decorated,  and  everything  made  beautiful 
and  gay  for  the  curious  stranger.  The  Exhibition  was  altogether  a 
success. 

I did  not  go  ashore,  preferring  to  stay  on  Board  and  see  the  people 
coming  and  going,  or  read  or  write.  I had  seen  all  Melbourne  had 
to  show  me,  and  made  some  acquaintances  among  the  Passengers  who, 
like  myself,  remained  aboard.  Among  them  is  a Mr.  Fletcher,  an 
English  gentleman  of  thirty-five  or  forty,  who  has  spent  his  life  as  a 
Teacher,  and  now  has  a School  for  Boys  in  the  Blue  Mountains,  VYest 
of  Sydney.  He  is  a graduate  of  Oxford,  and  a cultivated,  pleasant 
fellow,  now  bound  to  England,  by  the  way  of  Marseilles,  for  a six 
months’  rest.  Another  acquaintance  is  Mr.  Lestenberger,  a Merchant 
from  Indiana,  out  here  selling  Agricultural  Implements.  He,  too, 
is  a pleasant  fellow  and  genial  companion,  bound  likewise  for  Mar- 
seilles, on  his  homeward  journey.  My  Friends,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Nead, 
went  to  the  City  to  spend  the  day  and  night. 

But  the  time  did  not  lag.  I walked  the  Deck,  I looked  at  the 
people,  I enjoyed  tlie  pleasant  temperature,  I surveyed  the  low-lying 
City,  and  the  Vessels  of  every  shape  and  kind  which  thi’onged  the 
Harbor,  coming  in  or  going  out,  and  thought  of  you  all,  thousands 
of  miles  away,  and  wished  I had  the  Wings  of  the  Morning. 

On  the  Same  Ship, 

Between  Melbourne  and  Adelaide, 

Wednesday,  A'pril  30,  1890. 

I determined  to  go  to  Melbourne  this  morning,  the  Launch  run- 
ning to  and  fro  every  hour  for  the  convenience  of  travellers  and 
visitors,  not  to  see  the  City,  but  to  inquire  of  my  Bankers  for  any 
Letters  and  Papers,  which  I did  not  expect,  simply  hoped  for.  My 
Friends  Le.stenberger  and  Fletcher  went  with  me. 

The  run  was  short,  and  from  Port  Melbourne,  the  name  of  the 
Landing,  a few  minutes’  run  by  Rail  into  the  Station  near  Princes 
Bridge,  which  by  this  time  we  knew  quite  well.  We  walked  to  the 
Bank.  My  inquiry  was  vain ; no  Mail,  but  a promise  to  send  any 
that  might  come,  to  Brown,  Shipley  & Co.,  London,  whither  I hope 
others  will  gather  from  you  all  to  greet  me.  In  the  meantime,  I have 


MELBOURNE  TO  ADELAIDE. 


313 


been  able  to  make  only  one  rendezvous  of  Letters — at  Cape  Town — 
a long  way  off  and  a long  time  to  wait.  But  Letters  hence  could 
never  overtake  me  there,  and  I,  therefore,  to  get  them,  had  to  order 
them  to  be  sent  to  London ; where,  however,  I will  not  linger,  but 
hurry  on  to  finish  the  last  link  of  my  long  Chain  at  Home. 

My  friends  and  I,  having  seen  enough  of  Melbourne  on  former 
visits,  simply  strolled  a while  about  the  Streets  and  then  walked  back 
to  the  Landing,  and  taking  our  Launch  returned  to  the  Steamer,  on 
whose  Deck  I enjoyed  the  surroundings,  aided  by  a lovely  day. 

At  four  o’clock  in  the  afternoon,  we  lifted  Anchor,  and  were  soon 
steaming  across  Port  Philip,  bound  for  Adelaide,  the  Capital  of  South 
Australia,  distant  four  hundred  and  eighty  miles. 

When  I came  to  Melbourne  from  Tasmania,  I told  you  of  the 
entrance  of  Port  Philip  through  the  Heads ; I should  have  liked  to 
have  seen  the  meeting  of  the  M^atei’s  again;  but  when  we  reached 
there  the  Sun  had  set,  and  mist  and  haze  covered  the  Sea  and  Sky, 
and  there  was  nothing  beautiful  to  be  seen  ; and  soon  after  I went  to 
bed  and  trusted  the  good  Ship  to  carry  me  safely. 

On  Same  Steamer, 

Between  Adelaide  and  King  George  Sound,  Australia, 

Thursday  and  Friday,  May  1 and  2,  1890. 

All  day  of  Thursday  we  steamed  along  Australia’s  Coast,  it  ap- 
pearing simply  in  the  distance,  and  presenting  nothing  of  any  interest, 
only  a level  line  not  many  feet  above  the  Sea.  Some  Albatrosses, 
one  of  the  passengers  told  me,  came  in  sight;  but  I did  not  see  them, 
not  being  at  the  time  on  Deck.  Indeed,  I did  not  go  there  much 
during  the  day  : it  being  chilly  and  disagreeable,  and  the  Vessel 
rolling,  made  it  unsafe  for  me  to  walk  the  boards.  There  was  no 
wind,  and  no  surface  waves — indeed,  they  were  even  without  a cap — 
but  a distant  storm  had  stirred  the  depths,  and  big  billows  rolled 
inward  moodily,  and  carried  the  Ship  upon  their  backs  like  an  egg- 
shell. I have  often  in  my  voyages  spoken  of  this,  when  traversing 
the  great  Sea  wastes,  and  how  profoundly  it  impresses  me  with  the 
majesty  of  Old  Ocean’s  power. 

And  thus  the  day  passed  into  the  night,  and  during  its  hours 
we  came  to  Adelaide  and  anchored  in  the  Gulf  of  St.  Vincent,  otf 
Glenelg,  a small  town  upon  its  shore.  The  City  of  Adelaide  is  nine 


314 


LETTER  NO.  16. 


miles  from  the  Gulf.  Its  proper  harbor  is  Port  Adelaide,  ou  the 
Torrens  River,  a short  distance  from  its  outlet  in  the  Gulf,  and,  also, 
eight  or  nine  miles  away.  But  our  big  Ship  drew  too  much  water 
for  the  little  River  and  we  anchored  in  St.  Vincent,  where  she  was 
reached  by  Tugs. 

The  announcement  that  we  would  not  leave  till  live  o’clock  in  the 
afternoon,  enabled  me  to  go  ashore  and  visit  Adelaide.  My  Friends, 
Fletcher  and  Lestenberger,  who  had  been  there  before  and  knew  the 
City,  agreed  to  go  with  me.  We,  together  with  some  other  passen- 
gers impelled  by  the  same  curiosity,  took  one  of  the  Launches  and 
landed  at  a Wharf  called  Largs,  between  Glenelg  and  Port  Adelaide. 
Here  a fine  Hotel  has  been  built,  for  Summer  Resort,  and  a Railroad 
has  been  constructed  to  Adelaide  via  the  Port  of  that  name.  The 
Train  made  connections  with  the  Launch.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Nead  hav- 
ing been  here  before,  went  with  us,  not  to  see  the  City,  but  simply  to 
do  some  shopping. 

The  Country  to  Adelaide  is  level,  and  by  no  means  attractive.  It 
is  true,  a drought  now  prevails,  which  makes  vegetation  look  sorry 
and  worn  ; the  Plain  is  bounded  on  the  East  by  the  Mount  Lofty 
Range,  which  runs  almost  due  North  and  South,  live  or  six  miles 
from  Adelaide,  and  rims  the  Eastern  Horizon.  They  are  hardly 
worthy  of  their  name,  for  they  are  not  lofty  or  conspicuous  Mountains. 
The  highest  Peak,  Mount  Lofty  itself,  being  only  twenty-three  hun- 
dred and  thirty-four  feet. 

When  we  reached  the  Station  in  Adelaide  I hired  a two-horse 
Carriage,  and  invited  my  Friends  Fletcher  and  Lestenberger  to 
accompany  me  in  a drive  about  the  City.  They  knew  the  place 
and  had  kindly  offered  to  accompany  me,  and,  therefore,  I would 
not  allow  them  to  incur  any  expense  in  the  fulfilment  of  their 
kind  pi’oposal. 

The  City  is  divided  into  two  distinct  portions — North  and  South 
Adelaide.  The  latter  the  Business  section,  the  former  that  of  Resi- 
dences. Between  the  two  runs  the  River  Torrens ; a smalt  stream 
generally,  but  in  wet  weather  a flood  which  has  cut  in  time  a deep 
Gorge.  Both  Sections  are  well  laid  out  in  Squares  and  surrounded 
by  Terraces,  which  in  turn  abut  on  Parks,  whilst  about  the  interior 
are  Squares,  quite  tastefully  adorned.  In  the  heart  of  the  North 
Section  is  Wellington  Square.  Arranged  about  the  South — much 
larger  than  the  North  Section — are  Victoria  Square  in  the  centre. 


ADELAIDE. 


315 


and  equidistant  from  it  and  the  Terraces,  in  a rectangle,  are  Hartle, 
Light,  Whitmore,  and  Hindmarsh  Squares. 

We  drove  along  the  North  Terrace,  a fine  Street,  which  bounds 
the  Southern  Section  of  the  City  on  the  North,  and  observed  along 
it  the  Government  House  and  Grounds,  the  Parliament  Houses,  the 
Museum,  and  the  Building  where  the  late  Exposition  was  held,  and 
where  there  is  still  a small  Art  Collection,  which  we  visited ; all 
these  are  highly  respectable  Edifices  of  Stone.  At  the  farther  end 
of  the  Terrace,  we  visited  the  Botanical  Gardens,  which,  like  all  these 
Colonial  Cities,  you  have  observed,  is  most  creditable,  and  well  worth 
inspection,  both  from  the  variety  of  trees  and  plants,  and  the  excel- 
lence of  their  keep,  and  the  order  of  their  arrangement. 

Not  far  otf  is  a Zoological  Garden,  also  an  admirable  affair,  espe- 
cially interesting  to  me  on  account  of  the  fine  specimens  of  Austi’alian 
and  Tasmanian  growths.  There  were  two  Tasmanian  Devils — a 
creature  about  the  size  of  a Wild  Cat,  but  whilst  not  having  the 
active  ferocity  of  that  beast,  have  a none  the  less  devilish,  though 
more  apathetic  look;  two  fine  specimens  of  the  Jackass  Bird — so 
called  because  his  notes  have  a ridiculous  resemblance  to  the  human 
laugh ; specimens  of  the  Morepork — because  his  notes  repeat  this 
word,  and  other  curious  creatures  I have  not  time  to  mention. 

We  then  drove  over  the  North  Section,  and  admired,  from  its  ele- 
vated sites,  the  whole  City  below  and  around  us  and  the  Mountain 
Range,  with  Mount  Lofty,  its  highest  Peak,  crowned  with  a White 
Pillar,  to  mark  the  estimation  in  which  it  is  held  by  the  people  of 
the  City  it  dominates ; admired,  too,  the  plan  and  width  of  its  well 
paved  Streets,  and  the  admirable,  sometimes  fine.  Residences  of  stone, 
and  their  cultivated  surroundings.  And  then  drove  back  again  to 
the  South  Section,  and  through  its  Streets  and  by  its  Squares,  till  I 
could  be  said  to  have  seen  Adelaide ; and  concluded  that  it  was  a 
beautiful  site,  well  improved,  with  room  in  its  environment  of  ground 
for  more  growths,  both  of  population  and  adornment.  It  contains, 
they  claim,  fifty  thousand  people.  About  it  and  under  it  are  excellent 
Quarries  of  variegated  Limestone,  which  they  have  utilized,  and  which 
now  constitutes  the  material  of  which  most  of  their  Houses  are  built. 

In  their  Summer — our  Winter — the  heat  at  times  is  very  great, 
and  droughts  occur,  which  burn  up  the  vegetation.  Now,  the  climate 
is  delicious,  but  a drought  prevails,  though  this  is  the  usual  season 
of  Rain. 


316 


LETTER  NO.  15. 


Having  spent  several  hours  in  thus  perusing  Adelaide,  we  went 
back  to  the  Station,  took  Train  to  the  Launch  and  thence  by  it  to  the 
Steamer. 

Whilst  we  were  gone,  another  crowd  like  those  in  Sydney  and 
Melbourne  had,  by  invitation,  visited  the  Ship.  The  Earl  of  Kintore, 
the  present  Governor  of  South  Australia,  was  among  the  number.  I 
only  saw  him  in  the  distance;  Ins  Launch  leaving  as  oui\s  arrived. 
The  Steamship  Company  are  thus  trying  to  make  their  fine  Vessel 
known  to  the  Colonials,  inviting  patronage — a good  idea — for  no  one 
can  fail  to  be  impressed  l)y  the  elegant  Steamer  and  her  appoint- 
ments. 

At  five  o’clock  in  the  afternoon,  we  lifted  Anchor,  and  with  fair 
promise  of  weather,  steamed  through  Investigator  Strait  out  into  the 
Southern  Ocean,  bound  Westward. 

On  Same  Steamer, 

Saturday  and  Sunday,  May  3 and  4,  1890. 

These  two  days  we  have  travelled  Westward  rapidly — fifteen  miles 
an  hour  or  thereabouts — across  the  Australian  Bight,  a section  of  the 
Southern  Ocean.  The  Sea  and  Sky  have  favored,  and  out  of  sight 
of  Land,  we  have  gone  straight  on.  A Pidgeon  came  on  Deck,  seem- 
ingly tired  out  in  his  long  flight,  and  wanting  rest.  He  lingered 
some  time,  and  having  apparently  overcome  his  fatigue,  flew  aloft, 
and  hovering  a while  in  fluttering  indecision,  like  an  arrow  sped  in 
the  direction  of  the  Land.  On  the  contrary,  the  Albatross  was  per- 
fectly at  home  above  and  upon  the  water,  and  accompanied  us  all  day 
on  untiring  wing. 

I have  made  acquaintances  from  time  to  time  among  the  passen- 
gers. The  First  Class  are  not  numerous  for  so  big  a Ship — about 
fifty — while  she  has  accommodations  for  two  hundred.  The  Second 
Class  and  Steerage  are  quite  full,  and  a heavy  cargo  of  Freight; 
doing  welt  for  her  first  Voyage. 

Among  my  new  acquaintances  is  Mr.  Layard,  a Brother  of  the 
Layard  of  Nineveh  Fame.  He  is  a gentleman  of  sixty-five  or  seventy 
years  of  age.  I have  had  much  talk  with  him,  and  find  him  intelli- 
gent and  well  informed.  He  has  been  in  the  Foreign  Service  of 
England  for  forty-eight  years,  and  is  now  going  home  finally  into 
retirement  on  account  of  ill  health.  His  last  position  was  as  Consul 


STEAMSHIP  A USTRALIEN. 


317 


to  Numea,  New  Caledoniau  Islands,  and  he  gives  me  many  interest- 
ing stories  of  his  residence  there,  and  at  Fiji,  and  other  of  the  Poly- 
nesian Groups,  among  which  Cannibalism  still  exists.  His  views 
of  the  people,  and  their  ability  to  take  on  our  Civilization,  fully 
confirm  mine  given  you  frequently  upon  my  Tours : it  being  a ques- 
tion of  time  simply,  when  they  shall  pass  away  and  the  fittest  survive. 
He  has  no  faith  whatever  in  their  being  lifted  up,  either  by  our 
Science  or  our  Religion. 

The  old  man  some  years  ago  had  Necrosis  of  the  Jaw-bone,  and  a 
large  part  of  it  was  cut  away,  and  he  hoped  he  had  been  entirely 
relieved.  But  travelling  home  not  a great  while  ago  across  this  same 
Bight  we  are  now  traversing,  a swell  was  on,  much  like  that  of  which 
I have  told  you,  and  he  was  hurled  across  the  Deck  and  thrown 
against  an  iron  Stanchion,  his  face  and  head  receiving  the  blow.  He 
was  knocked  insensible,  but  after  a while  recovered  himself,  and  soon 
thereafter  had  a return  of  his  disease,  which  he  fears  is  eating  towards 
the  brain.  The  Doctors  advise  him,  that  his  lease  of  Life  is  short. 
There  is,  however,  no  outward  appearance  of  disease.  He  is  a good- 
looking  man,  with  his  snow-white  hair  and  bright  eye,  and  wonder- 
fully cheerful,  with  Damocles’  sword  above  his  head.  I tell  him,  he 
is  not  in  extremis,  and  has,  I hope,  many  more  years  before  him  of 
useful  and  happy  life,  for  he  is  a bright-tempered,  jovial  man. 

His  Son,  a man  of  forty  probably,  is  along.  Their  sojourning  so 
many  years  among  strange  peoples — for  the  Son,  too,  has  lived  abroad 
all  his  life  in  the  Foreign  Service — have  turned  their  attention  to  the 
collection  of  Curios,  and  they  have  sent  many  boxes  to  England. 
They  especially  value  their  preserved  Birds,  which  they  propose  to 
sell  to  the  British  Museum,  thinking  it  will  be  one  of  the  finest  in 
that  wonderful  Collection. 

The  old  gentleman  tells  me  his  Brother,  the  Nineveh  Explorer,  is 
still  living,  seventy  odd  years  of  age.  He  spends  his  Winters  in 
Florence,  where  he  has  a Palace,  filled  with  Works  of  Art:  his  Sum- 
mers, he  spends  in  Norway — his  days  devoted  to  pleasant  study  and 
social  intercourse. 

He  tells  me,  too,  many  stories  of  his  long  life  and  association  with 
eminent  and  famous  people.  He  knew  Queen  Victoria  in  her  youth, 
before  she  put  on  a Crown,  and  his  Cousins  wei’e  her  playmates,  and 
had  many  a I’ow.  Vic,  was  quite  conscious  of  the  Diadem  that 
awaited  her,  and  of  an  imperious  temper  naturally,  presumed  upon  it 


318 


LETTER  NO.  15. 


with  her  associates,  and  claimed  concessions  to  her  dignity.  On  one 
occasion  one  of  his  Cousins  had  a pet  Bird,  trained  to  obey  her  call 
and  light  upon  her  hand.  The  gentle  V^ic.  wanted  and  demanded  it, 
which  the  owner  with  equal  pluck  refused  ; hence  they  made  issue 
and  got  into  a scrimmage — Vic.  telling  her  the  right  of  the  Princess 
Royal  was  supi’eme,  which  her  companion  could  not  see.  In  the 
midst  of  it  the  Bird  fled  to  a tree,  and  the  future  Queen’s  Tutor 
passing  by,  sent  the  Princess  Royal  to  her  Room  to  reflect  upon  the 
iinpx’opriety  of  her  conduct.  The  Tutor  was  a sensible  man,  and 
conscious  that  in  the  whirligig  of  time  the  Divine  Right  in  England 
had  gone  from  the  wearer  of  the  Crown,  and  it  was  proper  for  the 
coming  Queen  to  know  it. 

This  is  interesting,  but  it  does  not  seem  to  have  anything  to  do 
with  Australia,  does  it?  Yet  it  may  have — for  the  assertion  of  any 
such  right  in  these  latter  days,  in  these  Antipodal  Colonies,  would 
send  them  whirling  from  the  Imperial  Sphere. 

No  note  was  taken  on  Board  to-day  of  the  Sabbath.  We  had  no 
Religious  Service  of  any  sort ; but  in  silent  recognition,  the  Passen- 
gers stopped  their  games. 


On  Same  Steamer, 

And  at  Albany,  West  Australia, 

Monday,  May  5,  1890. 

Some  hours  before  we  came  to  King  George’s  Sound  on  the  South- 
west Coast  of  Australia,  we  sighted  the  Islands  in  the  distance,  which 
bound  it  from  the  Ocean.  Steaming  through  these,  we  enter  Princess 
Royal  Harbor,  between  two  fine  Headlands — King  Point  and  Pos- 
session Point — crowned  with  Light  Houses,  and  soon  were  anchored 
a few  miles  from  Albany,  ten  hundred  and  twenty-five  from  Adelaide. 

Albany  is  of  small  import,  with  probably  a thousand  people,  but 
is  situated  on  a fine,  completely  land-locked  and  commodious  Harbor, 
one  of  the  best  in  Australia.  We  arrived  about  three  o’clock,  and 
the  Captain  announced  that  we  would  leave  at  five,  thus  giving  us 
no  time  to  go  ashore ; which,  however,  would  not  have  paid  for  our 
trouble.  From  the  Deck  we  had  it  in  full  view,  and  could  see  how 
little  it  had  to  entice  or  interest  the  stranger ; but  we  could  see  how 
beautiful  a Basin  its  Harbor  is,  girdled  by  the  Land  completely,  save 
where  it  gives  outlet  to  the  Sound,  and  thence  Oceanward. 


STEAMSHIP  A USTRALIEN— ALBANY. 


319 


Albany  is  connected  with  Perth,  the  Capital  of  West  Australia,  by 
Rail,  somewhat  more  than  two  hundred  miles  in  length,  and  was  for 
a few  years  a Penal  Colony.  But  that  has  been  abolished  here,  as  in 
all  the  Colonies. 

We  did  not  get  off  at  the  appointed  hour,  and  it  was  after  six 
before  we  lifted  Anchor.  But  the  time  was  not  lost.  In  the  mean- 
while the  Sun  set  splendidly,  covering  Sea  and  Sky  with  his  efful- 
gence ; then  the  Lamps  flashed  out  around  the  Harbor  from  the  Light 
Houses;  then  the  full  Moon  rose  blushing  red,  throwing  over  all  the 
milder  radiance  she  borrowed  from  the  Sun,  just  gone  down  ; and  all 
united  with  Australasia  in  giving  emphasis  and  pleasure  to  our  last 
Good  Night ! Amid  it,  the  noble  Ship  steamed  out  through  the 
Portals  of  the  Harbor  upon  the  Sea,  and  began  another  link  of  my 
Travel  Chain,  of  three  thousand  nine  hundred  and  twenty-two  miles 
to  Mahe,  Northwestward,  well-nigh  across  the  Indian  Ocean  and  the 
Southern  Tropic. 


I hope  Australia  has  afforded  you  some  interest,  travelling  with 
me  through  and  along  its  shore.  It  is  a vast  Island-Continent,  two 
thousand  miles  and  more  across  its  Compass  Points,  but  it  is  young. 
Yet  you  have  seen  what  big  Cities  it  bears,  and  far  off  at  the  Antip- 
odes, how  it  rivals  the  oldest  and  most  populous  States  in  the  putting 
on  of  the  garments  of  our  Civilization.  Its  settled  interior  is  trav- 
ersed by  Railways,  and  its  Coast  Cities  are  visited  by  Ocean  Steam- 
ers, connecting  them  with  all  the  World. 

Much  of  this  Continent  is  unknown  ; the  Explorer  has  yet  to  visit 
many  points.  But  from  that  already  seen,  the  inference  is  that  at 
least,  if  not  more,  than  one-half  of  its  entire  area  is  beyond  the  reach 
of  tillage. 

It  had  been  visited  in  different  parts  by  different  navigators  long 
before.  But  Captain  Cook  in  1770  sailed  along  the  entire  Eastern 
Coast  from  Gippsland  to  Cape  York,  and  added  it  to  the  British 
Possessions.  He  has  given  us  a graphic  account  of  his  experiences, 
and  how  he  suffered  shipwreck  upon  the  Great  Barrier  Reef,  which 
extends  for  twelve  hundred  miles  along  its  Northeastern  border — 
now  Queensland — and  how  by  skilful  seamanship  he  saved  his  good 
Ship  Endeavor.  We  have  seen  on  Botany  Bay  the  Column  which 


320 


LETTER  NO.  15. 


marks  the  spot  where  he  aufurled  the  Englisli  Flag  and  claimed 
the  country  for  her  own. 

In  1788,  a few  years  thereafter,  a Settlement  was  made  on  Port 
Jackson,  Sydney  Harbor,  and  thence  has  Australia  grown.  The 
chief  use  England  made  of  it  was  to  establish  at  Botany  Bay  a Con- 
vict Colony,  which  became  famous,  and  in  my  young  days  engaged 
the  pens  of  Reviewers  and  Essayists  in  berating  the  Mother  Country 
for  the  cruelty  with  which  the  prisoners  were  treated,  and  the  taint 
upon  the  Virgin  Soil,  open  then  for  the  honest  Settler.  The  coming 
of  these  Settlers  from  year  to  year  compelled  the  Government  to 
remove  the  Convicts,  many  of  whose  descendants  now-a-days  consti- 
tute the  most  respectable  element  of  the  people,  I an]  told,  but  not  to 
be  referred  to  in  polite  society.  Taken  from  Botany  Bay,  they  were 
sent  to  Tasmania  in  1804,  and  tlience,  pressed  l)y  the  tide  of  Emi- 
gi-ants  and  their  demands,  were  sent  to  West  Australia,  which  in 
1850  asked  for  them  as  an  element  of  labor.  All  laws  of  transpor- 
tation from  the  Old  Country  were  rej)ealed  in  1868.  The  few  left 
are  dying  out,  and  soon  not  one  will  be  alive  to  tell  the  story  of 
Australia’s  birth. 

This  Settlement  of  1788  was  the  centre,  whence  has  grown  Aus- 
tralia. The  Colony  was  called  New  South  Wales.  Tasmania,  a 
Dependency  of  New  South  Wales,  in  1825  became  a Colony,  whose 
Capital  is  Hobart,  and  in  1829,  a few  years  thereafter,  the  Island- 
Continent  was  severed,  and  West  Australia  became  a Colony  with 
the  whole  Western  Sliore  abutting  on  the  Indian  Ocean,  whose  Capi- 
tal is  Perth.  In  1834  the  intervening  Country  occupying  the  centre 
was  made  a Colony  and  called  South  Australia,  Avhose  Capital  is 
Adelaide.  In  1851,  the  Southern  portion  of  New  South  Wales  was 
made  a Colony  under  the  name  of  Victoria,  whose  Capital  is  Mel- 
bourne; and  in  1859  the  remnant  was  made  the  Colony  of  Queens- 
land, with  Brisbane  its  Capital. 

The  three  Countries  of  New  Zealand,  Tasmania,  and  Australia, 
when  the  Discoverers  came,  were  inhabited  by  peoples  whom  Eth- 
nologist regard  as  distinct  Races.  The  Mahoris  I have  spoken  of 
in  New  Zealand,  and  somewhat  of  the  Aborigines  of  Australia : the 
former  regarded  as  the  most  superior,  the  latter  as  the  most  inferior 
of  all  the  savage  peoples  that  have  been  come  across  by  Civilized 
men  ; both  now  passing  away.  The  Tasmanians  are  clean  gone. 


STEAMSHIP  A USTRALIEN—A  USTRALIA. 


321 


These,  your  Map  will  show  you,  are  the  great  nearly  Central  Islands, 
called  Australasia,  that  lie  between  Singapore  and  Easter  Island, 
and  which  connectedly  may  be  denominated  Oceana.  Those  West 
of  Australasia  are  called  Malaysia,  from  Sumatra  to  the  Phillipines 
and  Moluccas,  the  habitat  of  the  Malay  Race,  of  whom  I told  you 
much  on  my  Fourth  Tour;  Melanesia,  from  New  Guinea  to  the  Fiji, 
where  the  Papuans  or  black  and  woolly-haii’ed  Races  live — Papua 
signifying  woolly-headed ; Mikronesia,  the  small  Islands  to  the  East 
of  these,  in  the  North  Pacific;  and  Polynesia,  embracing  the  great 
Group  Eastward,  from  the  Hawaiian  Islands  to  New  Zealand.  The 
Inhabitants  of  the  Islands  I have  thus  enumerated.  Ethnologists  tell 
us  are  of  distinct  Races. 

But  the  same  fate  seems  to  await  them  all,  the  efforts  of  the  Phil- 
anthropists, so-called,  notwithstanding.  I would  not  underrate  the 
designs  of  the  good,  nor  cast  derision  on  their  work.  But  the  order 
of  the  Universe,  wherein  consists  and  subsists  all  perfection  and 
happiness,  cannot  be  enthroned  in  our  lives  and  aims  without  recog- 
nition of  and  obedience  to  its  Laws,  however  high  and  holy  our 
purposes  and  intentions.  Sentimentalism  has  no  place  in  Nature’s 
fierce,  but  beneficent.  Economies. 

The  White  Man  settled  at  first  upon  the  long  East  and  South 
Shore-lines  of  Australia,  and  thence  from  year  to  year  and  generation 
to  generation,  spread  inwards.  Even  now  he  occupies  but  a small 
portion  of  the  Continent ; indeed,  some  of  it  is  yet  unknown.  Ex- 
plorers and  Travellers  tell  us,  as  I have  already  remarked,  that  at 
the  best,  from  what  has  been  seen,  not  one-half  of  it  can  ever  be 
reduced  to  tillage.  For  a long  time  Immigration  was  slow;  the 
discovery  of  Gold  in  Victoria  in  1851  expedited  it  greatly,  like  it 
did  to  California  in  1849 — many  in  both,  not  finding  the  Gold,  could 
not  get  away,  and  became,  in  other  pursuits,  the  founders  of  perma- 
nent Settlements,  and  the  Architects  of  those  Countries’  substantial 
fortune. 

Australia  now  contains  rather  more  than  three  millions  of  people, 
and  claims  to  be  growing  both  in  population  and  wealth.  But  not 
rapidly,  hardly  in  excess  of  its  people’s  normal  increase:  Immigration 
being  opposed  by  the  laboring  class,  on  account  of  apprehended  com- 
petition. 

There  are  things  which,  to  the  average  traveller,  indicate  a flour- 
ishing and  prosperous  condition,  which  upon  closer  inspection  may 

21 


322 


LETTER  NO.  15. 


be  the  reverse.  Two  great  Cities,  Melbourne  and  Sydney,  have 
grown  : the  former  almost  by  magic,  one  of  the  wonders  of  the  World. 
To  walk  through  Melbourne  makes  the  impression  not  only  of  energy 
and  thrift,  but  of  large  accumulated  wealth.  I have  told  you  of  this 
City,  and  therefore  will  not  repeat ; and  will  only  say  in  this  connec- 
tion, that  Melbourne’s  growth  is  abnormal,  and  constituting  one-half 
the  population  of  Victoria,  the  Colony  of  which  it  is  the  Capital, 
and  that  Colony  not  of  any  remarkable  natural  resources,  is  not  a 
healthy  economical  attitude. 

There  are  cjuestions,  too,  alFecting  the  whole  Country  at  large, 
which  show  that  Australia  is  not  without  troubles  that  will  gravely 
affect  her  fortune.  The  Rabbit  Problem  is  not  yet  solved,  seemingly 
farther  from  it  with  every  advancing  year.  To  us  who  have  Rabbits 
with  impunity,  the  simple  suggestion  of  such  creatures  causing  such 
apprehension  excites  a smile.  But  not  so  here,  where  its  import  has 
not  only  invoked  the  earnest  consideration  of  individuals,  but  the 
attention  and  aid  of  the  Government.  You  will  recall  what  I said 
about  it  in  New  Zealand,  and  what  I thouglit  wmuld  be  its  solution 
there;  and,  also,  I think,  spoke  of  the  causes  which  would  impede 
or  prevent  its  application  here. 

Mr.  Wilson,  I told  you,  gave  me  papers  containing  a discussion, 
among  others,  of  this  question  ; and  those,  together  with  many  con- 
versations I have  had  on  my  travels,  have  yielded  me  much  infor- 
mation with  regard  to  the  seriousness  of  the  invasion.  Brought  into 
Victoria  innocently,  near  Geelong,  in  1864,  at  Barwon  Park,  for 
sporting  purposes,  they  have  spread  like  wildfire  over  most  of  that 
Colony,  and  thence  crossing  the  Murray  River  in  1878  into  New 
South  Wales,  and  thence  into  Queensland,  will  soon  cover  all  Aus- 
tralia, devastating  the  Runs  and  consuming  and  destroying  the  pas- 
turage for  thousands  of  squai’e  miles ; for  their  presence  taints  the 
grass  so  that  Sheep  will  not  eat  it.  Numerous  remedies  have  been 
applied — catching  them  in  traps,  poisoning,  shooting,  disseminating 
disease  under  Pasteur’s  recommendation  and  method  ; but  all,  instead 
of  checking  their  increase,  simply  tending  to  alarm  and  scatter  them 
over  wide  areas.  Hundreds  of  thousands,  both  of  Private  and  Public 
Moneys,  have  been  spent,  but  with  no  appreciable  effect  upon  their 
numbers.  The  Statements  and  Extracts  I have  already  given  show 
that  the  Question  is  not  by  any  means  a trivial  one.  On  the  con- 
trary, if  a remedy  for  the  pest  is  not  found,  and  that  speedily,  the 


STEAMSHIP  A USTRALIEN—A  USTRALIA. 


323 


sources  of  wealth  of  the  Colonies  will  be  profoundly  affected  if  not 
utterly  destroyed. 

Vast  sums  of  money  have  been  spent  in  constructing  Wire-Gauze 
Fences,  burying  them  six  inches  in  the  ground  with  three  or  four 
feet  above,  thus  preventing  the  Rabbits’  advance  and  spread  by  either 
climbing  or  burrowing.  Some  say  the  money  has  been  throAvn  away, 
for  the  creature  can  and  will  do  both.  Others  deny  this,  and  have 
faith  in  the  remedy.  Time  alone  will  decide. 

To  the  Traveller  two  other  questions  occur  affecting  the  future  of 
Australia — one  Economical,  the  other  Political.  I doubt  whether 
any  Country  on  Earth  is  in  debt  to  the  extent  of  Australia,  individ- 
ually and  corporately,  in  proportion  to  the  value  of  its  property,  except 
Peru,  whose  resources  were  destroyed  or  spoiled,  especially  by  the 
Chilian  War.  I have  remarked  upon  the  number  of  Banks  in  New 
Zealand  ; here  the  number  is,  if  anything,  greater.  Wherever  you  go 
they  abound  with  their  Palatial  Shops.  In  Melbourne  there  are  about 
thirty  ; in  Sydney,  twenty  ; in  Brisbane,  fifteen  ; each  of  which  has  its 
Branches.  And  there  are  other  independent  Banks  all  over  the  Colonies 
in  the  Cities  and  Towns.  These  Institutions  profess  to  be  flourishing — 
dividing  from  fifteen  to  twenty  and  twenty-five  per  cent.  I hear  that 
they  have  liens  upon  innumerable  Farms  and  Houses  and  tracts  of 
Lands  in  City  and  Country,  and  that  the  majority  of  those  holding 
property  are  under  Bond  and  Mortgage.  We  know  the  Farmer  can- 
not stand  this.  The  small  market  for  Agricultural  Products  of 
Western  Europe  and  Great  Britain,  which  in  effect  is  the  only  one  in 
the  World  for  the  Exporting  Countries,  and  the  now  enormous  com- 
petition and  immense  surplus  of  production  by  reason  of  improved 
machinery  and  easy  and  rapid  transportation,  compel  the  producer  to 
the  greatest  economy ; it  is  impossible  for  him  to  borrow  money  at 
high  rates  of  interest  and  survive ; this  we  know  full  well  in  our 
Coimtiy.  In  this  respect  Australia  stands  with  us,  with  less  advan- 
tage because  farther  from  that  Market. 

To  the  extent  of  my  observation  and  inquiry,  and  by  admission  of 
all  the  men  of  intelligence  and  experience  with  whom  I have  con- 
versed, and  they  have  been  many,  this  is  true ; and  the  only  hope  of 
the  Colonies  is  in  their  Stock,  especially  Sheep  and  Wool.  But  even 
these  are  heavily  in  debt  to  individuals  and  Money  Corporations,  and 
have  been  for  years,  waiting  for  some  streak  of  Luck,  or  “ something 
to  turn  up : ” for  Mr.  Micawber  when  he  emigrated  to  Australia 


324 


LETTER  NO.  15. 


brought  that  characteristic  with  him,  and  left  it  as  a heritage  to  the 
Colonists.  Every  Squatter  I have  met,  and  some  are  reputed  among 
the  wealthiest  men  in  the  Country,  told  me  he  was  in  Debt,  not 
regarding  it  a serious  matter  in  consideration  of  his  resources,  and 
their  hoped-for  annual  yield.  These  gentlemen  are  men  generally 
advanced  in  years,  who  have  industriously  spent  their  lives  here,  and 
whose  hopes  have  not  yet  been  realized.  It  is  not  a healthy  senti- 
ment, resulting  in  a not  healthy  condition  of  affairs. 

Nor  is  it  remarkable  that  success  should  not  have  been  achieved. 
The  Squatter,  like  the  Farmer,  has  enemies  and  contingencies  to  con- 
tend with,  which  constantly  thwart  his  enterprises  and  hopes.  The 
Rabbits  have  come,  seemingly  to  stay ; their  invasion  threatens  worse 
than  the  Locusts — for  the  latter  come  and  go  at  intervals ; the  former 
take  up  their  residence,  constructing  permanent  abiding  places.  In 
addition,  the  Country  as  a whole  is  badly  watered,  and  to  supply  it 
artificially  is  an  immediate  impossibility  over  such  extensive  areas. 
I have  heard  much  of  Artesian  Wells  and  Irrigation;  neither,  it 
seems  to  me,  is  possible  over  such  extensive  regions,  and  at  the  present 
high  price  of  labor.  The  former,  too,  could  only  supply  the  Stock 
with  water,  not  the  land  with  moisture  over  Runs  of  hundreds  of 
thousands  of  acres ; the  latter,  if  drawn  from  the  few  Rivers  Aus- 
tralia has,  would  soon  leave  them  empty  channels,  and  hasten  an 
extremity  which  they  wish  to  avoid.  And  then,  too,  vast  regions 
are  entirely  without  Rivers,  and  Artesian  Wells  might  reach  no  water, 
though  bored  to  the  center  of  the  Earth,  there  being  by  the  Geologic 
structure  no  probable  sources  of  supply. 

Whilst  this  is  the  general  condition,  the  Country  is  subject  to 
terrible  droughts,  there  being  no  rainfall  sometimes  for  years.  It 
is  subject,  also,  when  the  drought  passes,  to  Floods,  which  rival  in 
destructiveness  over  smaller  areas,  if  not  in  magnitude  those  of  our 
own  Mississippi.  I think  I have  mentioned  to  you,  that  of  the 
Darling  this  year,  which  created  wide-spread  devastation ; thousands 
of  Sheep  were  washed  away,  and  where  they  were  spared  or  saved, 
the  ground  was  left  in  such  sobby  condition  as  to  generate  rot  in  their 
feet,  destroying  lives  or  values  over  extensive  Runs. 

These  are  things  which  stand  a barrier  to  the  Squatter  in  discharg- 
ing the  heavy  obligations  he  has  assumed,  and  increase  the  burden 
of  his  Debt,  sometimes  to  individuals,  most  frequently  to  the  Banks. 
These  Banks  are  almost  entirely  owned  in  England  or  elsewhere 


STEAMSHIP  A USTRALIEN—A  USTRALIA. 


325 


abroad.  The  annual  interest,  therefore,  never  fructifies  here,  and  the 
profits  of  the  producer  never  returns  to  add  to  the  substantial  wealth 
of  Australia.  It  therefore  now  presents  the  strange  anomaly  of  a 
Country  owned  by  Foreign  Corporations,  though  professing  to  own 
itself;  for  the  whole  Land  is  under  mortgage  to  pay  the  indebtedness. 
How  long,  amid  the  circumstances  I have  described,  can  this  condi- 
tion of  things  last?  There  must  be  a day  of  reckoning.  The  Cor- 
porations must  have  their  interest,  if  not  their  principal.  If  the 
Lands  are  forced  into  Market,  in  such  volume,  there  will  be  no  pur- 
chasers, and  the  Banks  will  hold  an  empty  bag.  And  this  hard-pan 
will  have  to  be  reached,  either  suddenly  by  force,  or  adjustment,  if 
possible,  by  amicable  and  sensible  delay. 

But  the  Political,  if  not  more  presently  serious,  is  of  more  perma- 
nent interest  than  the  Economical.  From  my  observations  and  con- 
versations, which  have  been  numerous,  the  Question  of  continued 
Colonial  Connection,  or  Severance  from  the  Empire,  is  coming  to  the 
front.  Colonial  Federation  is  much  talked  of,  and  just  before  my 
arrival  a Conference  was  held  in  Melbourne  for  its  consideration. 
With  Federation  will  come  the  graver  Question  of  Severance.  Among 
the  older  Colonials  and  those  born  across  the  water,  loyalty  to  the 
Crown  seems  quite  well  fixed.  The  Separatists  are  among  those  who 
call  themselves  “ Young  Australians  ; ” not  unlike,  in  many  of  their 
characteristics,  our  “ Young  Americas.”  Indeed,  I have  probably 
before  somewhere  remarked  that,  in  my  intercourse  with  the  people, 
I have  seen  more  of  Americanism  than  of  Old  Countryism  in  their 
tendencies  and  modes  of  thought. 

This  spirit  of  Severance  and  Independence  has  as  yet  assumed  no 
definite  organization  or  shape — only  talk  of  a general  character.  But 
it  has  its  germ  in  the  thoughts  of  the  young,  and  its  advocates  are 
increasing  in  numbers  from  year  to  year;  its  opponeuts  among  the 
old  are  growing  fewer  with  the  lapse  of  time,  and  its  manifestation 
in  formulated  action  may  come,  as  our  own  expei’ience  in  such  pro- 
ceedings, satisfies  us,  suddenly — by  the  sounding  of  a rally. 

The  old  man  still  holds  fast  to  the  memories  of  his  youth  and  the 
glories  of  the  Empire,  and  wants  his  adopted  home  to  remain  one  of 
its  integral  parts ; he  has  faith,  too,  in  the  Lion’s  strength  in  the  day 
of  emergency.  The  young  man  thinks  Australia  is  old  and  strong 
enough  to  stand  alone,  and  points  to  the  United  States  to  prove  the 
power  of  Independence.  He  is  tired  of  hanging  on  simply  as  an 


326 


LETTER  NO.  15. 


appendage,  and  of  having  figure-head  Governors,  to  whom  salaries 
are  paid  rivalling  that  of  the  President  of  the  United  States ; who  are 
less  than  nothing  if  not  merely  social  ornaments.  He  wants  the 
Colonies  to  combine  and  launch  out  upon  the  Sea  of  Nationalities, 
quite  sure  they  will  be  able  to  maintain  their  prestige  and  inde- 
pendence. 

When  they  talk  thus  to  me,  I tell  them  I think  their  Fathers  the 
wiser.  Better  receive  and  pay  the  nominal  Governor  his  salary  for 
the  protection  the  Empire  affords,  than  to  call  upon  their  already 
burdened  finances  for  an  Army  and  Navy,  a Diplomatic  Corps,  and 
all  the  unnumbered  and  innumerable  expenses  of  an  Independent 
Nationality.  More  than  that,  and  in  import,  far  above  it,  the  figure- 
head of  a Governor  stands  as  the  Vice-Roy,  the  representative  of  a 
Splendid  Rule,  greater  than  any  that  has  hitherto  appeared  upon  the 
Earth — Magni  Nominis  Umbra — with  all  the  forceful  conservatism 
that  term  implies.  Australia,  in  every  comprehensive  sense,  is  the 
freer  thereby,  for  England  in  her  present  relations,  with  her  strong 
hand,  extends  over  her  simply  a Shield,  not  a Sword.  Were  I 
an  Australian,  I would  hold  on  to  the  Lion’s  Mane.  The  contour 
and  resources  of  the  Island-Continent  forbid  it  for  many  years,  if  not 
forever,  from  being  the  home  6f  a Great  Nationality. 

On  Same  Steamship,  Indian  Ocean, 

From  Australia  to  the  Seychelles, 

Tuesday,  May  6,  1890. 

To-day  we  are  fairly  out  upon  the  Indian  Ocean,  and  Australia  is 
behind  us.  No  Land  is  in  sight,  only  the  Water  and  the  Sky.  No 
Birds  of  any  sort  have  followed  from  Shore ; none  have  come  to  meet 
and  greet  us  on  the  Sea. 

Soon  after  Breakfast  a Trojiic  Shower  came,  though  we  are  far 
yet  from  their  habitat.  But  it  hurried  just  like  it  would  have  done 
at  its  own  home,  and  poured  out  buckets  full  of  water.  When  it  had 
gone,  it  left  behind  the  wind  that  brought  it,  which  forthwith  began 
to  stir  the  waves.  Its  distant  fellows  had  done  the  same,  and  uniting 
their  forces,  moved  the  Ocean  into  billows,  which  lifted  the  big  Ship 
upon  their  bosom  like  a plaything.  When  the  night  fell,  it  was 
like  a boiling  caldron  : no  wind,  but  simply  the  waters,  heaving  in 
unrest. 


STEAMSHIP  AUSTRALIEN— INDIAN  OCEAN. 


327 


On  Same  Steamship  and  Ocean, 

Wednesday,  May  7,  1890. 

The  Rain  returned,  and  it  and  the  wind  almost  ahead,  continued 
with  us.  The  Engine  had  hard  work  to  propel  the  massive  hulk  against 
the  opposing  forces,  and  it  was  marvellous  to  see  its  triumph.  Though 
to  me  now  a common  thing,  I never  cease  my  wonder  and  admira- 
tion in  witnessing  the  concentration  of  power  in  the  propeller  at  the 
Vessel’s  stern,  and  how  it  forces  the  Ship  against  every  opposing 
obstacle. 

All  day  this  struggle  lasted,  and  all  day  we  triumphed,  moving  on 
our  way.  The  Ship  labored  to  preserve  her  equilibrium — which  was 
not  possible  in  her  difficulties ; she  kept  a-going,  but  rolled  and 
staggered  like  a drunken  man.  We  on  board  were  equally  unsteady, 
and  had  to  guard  our  steps.  Going  down  the  Stairway  from  the 
Saloon  to  my  State-Room,  on  reaching  the  bottom,  I was  hurled 
against  the  Jamb  of  the  Iron  Doorway  which  divides  the  Ship  into 
water-tight  compartments ; had  the  lurch  occurred  one  step  later,  I 
would  have  been  thrown  down  a flight  of  steps  into  the  hold,  and  my 
travels  would  then  and  there  have  forever  ended. 

We  gather  in  the  Saloon,  and  holding  tight  to  fixed  chairs  and 
tables,  read  and  talk,  to  while  the  hours. 

On  Same  Ocean  and  Ship, 

Thursday,  May  8,  1890. 

At  three  o’clock  this  morning  the  Vessel  stopped;  I felt  it,  and 
feared  that,  for  a new  Ship,  her  labors  had  been  too  many  and  too 
much.  Maybe  I have  mentioned,  that  her  voyage  to  Australia  was 
her  maiden  effort.  It  was  naturally  anticipated,  that  with  gearing 
not  yet  accurately  adjusted,  she  might,  with  such  difficulties  as  she  is 
encountering,  in  some  part  give  way. 

My  apprehensions  were  realized.  On  inquiry,  I found  one  of  her 
Cylinders  was  ruptured;  and  we  had  to  stop  in  mid-Ocean  for  repairs. 
How  long  it  would  take,  who  could  tell  ? The  waters  were  swelling 
heavily,  happily  the  wind  had  ceased,  and  the  helpless  hulk  simply 
rose  and  fell,  and  rolled  in  the  Sea-troughs ; but,  by  reason  of  her 
size  and  weight,  less  disagreeably  than  we  anticipated. 


328 


LETTER  NO.  15. 


All  (lay  the  Chief  Engineer,  with  his  hands,  were  busily  at  work 
fixing  up  the  damage.  The  passengers  were  just  as  busily  at  work, 
a-doing  nothing.  I read,  and  talked,  and  thought,  and  felt  my  way 
carefully  about  the  Deck,  looking  at  some  of  my  comrades  fishing  for 
Sharks  and  Albatrosses.  They  caught  a young  one  of  the  former, 
three  or  four  feet  long,  too  young  to  have  cut  his  teeth.  The  creatures 
of  the  air,  very  numerous,  and  some  splendid  specimens,  seemed  smart 
enough  to  avoid  the  danger,  simply  nibbling  the  bait  and  then  on 
wide-spread  wing,  circling  our  Ship  and  exciting  our  admiration  by 
their  glorious  flight.  I was  glad  none  were  caught  and  snatched 
from  the  sphei’e  they  thus  adorned,  to  such  untimely  fate  ; and  did 
not  at  all  wonder  at  the  Ancient  Mariner’s  frightful  penalty. 

Same  Sea  and  Steamer, 

Friday,  May  9,  1890. 

At  half-past  nine  we  started  again.  But  in  an  hour  stopped,  the 
working  of  the  Machinery  showing  other  damages  to  be  repaired. 
At  three  in  the  afternoon  once  more  we  started. 

In  the  Morning,  we  had  no  sooner  gotten  under  way,  than  a breeze 
sprang  up,  with  rain.  The  breeze  increased  and  grew  into  a gale, 
which  lifting  the  waves,  washed  the  lower,  and  sometimes  vaulting 
over  the  Hurricane  Deck  in  seemingly  mad  sport,  come  down  in 
thunderous  concussion.  The  Steamer’s  troubles  made  me  anxious, 
fearing  she  might  give  way  again,  under  the  contest  forced  upon  her. 
And  my  anticipations  were  realized,  as  above  stated,  in  an  hour.  At 
three  p.  m.  we  again  were  under  steam,  and  continued  to  fight  the 
winds  and  waves  till  after  I went  to  Bed.  Though  the  Sea  was 
rough,  the  Sun  set  bright,  promising  better  fates. 

My  old  Friend,  Mr.  Layard,  and  I have,  during  these  times,  had 
numerous  pleasant  talks.  His  life  of  varied  experience  in  many  places 
makes  him  full  of  incident.  He  lived  sixteen  years  in  South  Africa, 
and  he  has  told  me  much  of  the  Country,  and  prepared  me  for  my 
experiences  there.  But  now,  by  our  mishaps,  I begin  to  fear  I will 
not  be  able  to  carry  out  my  plans.  Our  delays  make  it  doubtful 
whether  I can  make  connections  either  at  Mahe  or  Mauritius.  But 
it  is  too  soon  yet  to  decide.  Indeed,  I will  have  to  wait  till  I get  to 
Mahe. 


STEA3ISHIP  AUSTRALIEN— INDIAN  OCEAN. 


329 


Mr.  Layard  volunteered  to  give  me  Letters  of  introduction  to  two 
of  his  friends  in  South  Africa — Mr.  C.  G.  Fairbridge,  Cape  Town, 
and  Dr.  Atherstone,  Grahainstown.  I send  you  an  extract  or  two, 
to  show  the  old  gentleman’s  kindly  feeling  on  our  short  acquaintance. 
To  Mr.  F. : “I  am  sure  you  will  put  him  in  the  way  of  seeing  all 
that  is  worth  seeing  in  and  about  Cape  Town,  and  a few  minutes 
conversation  with  him  will  convince  you  that  he  is  a man  worth 
knowing.”  To  Dr.  A. : “I  am  sure  you  will  put  Governor  Holliday 
on  the  way  of  carrying  out  his  intentions  ; he  could  not  have  a better 
‘Guide,  Philosopher,  and  Friend’  than  yourself.  I am  sure  you  will 
aid  him  for  my  sake  and  for  his  own,  after  a few  minutes’  conversation 
with  him.” 

Same  Sea  and  Ship, 

.Saturday,  May  10,  1890. 

All  day  the  Sea  and  Winds  have  been  rough  and  adverse;  but  we 
struggled  on.  From  excess  of  caution  I did  not  venture  on  any  of 
the  Decks  yesterday  nor  to-day.  They  were  continually  washed  by 
the  waves ; and  a strong,  dashing  fellow,  to  try  his  strength,  came 
furiously  upon  our  flank  and  crushed  and  swept  off  like  gossamer  a 
portion  of  our  Bulwark.  Sitting  in  the  Saloon,  from  the  concussion, 
we  hardly  knew  what  had  happened ; but  hasting  to  the  window  the 
best  we  could,  and  seeing  the  disaster,  were  soon  reconciled,  feeling 
that  with  hatches  down  and  doorways  closed  our  massive  Ship  could 
do  without  a Bulwark. 

Whilst  looking  at  it,  we  saw  far  off  a Sail  coming  across  our  path- 
way— now  sinking  clean  out  of  sight  in  the  hollow  of  the  waves,  now 
rising  like  a Bird  upon  their  crest.  It  was  a brilliant  sight,  for  the 
little  creature  seemed,  in  its  confidence,  to  be  safe,  and  sped  before 
the  wind  upon  the  heaving  bosom  of  the  Sea,  triumphing  over  both, 
by  obedience  to  their  Laws — the  only  mode  by  which  all-powerful 
Nature  can  be  conquered. 

We  stopped  a while  at  five  o’clock,  but  only  for  a while,  to  cool  a 
heated  portion  of  the  machinery,  and  then  kept  on  our  beat. 

You  must  not  think,  shut  up  amid  such  scenes  and  dangers,  that 
there  is  any  panic  or  confusion.  We  are  not  even  blue ; but  gathered 
in  the  Saloon,  and  holding  on  to  fixed  chairs  and  tables,  we  have  a 
jolly  time,  enjoying  the  incidents  of  our  Voyage  and  waiting  for  the 
calm.  Now  and  then  a sudden  lurch  sends  a careless  one  to  a fall, 


330 


LETTER  NO.  15. 


which,  not  hurting,  creates  our  laughter.  Mr.  Nead,  who  is  a stout, 
fat  man,  sitting  by  my  side  in  listless  mood,  with  foot  elevated,  was 
tying  his  shoe,  when  a sudden  movement  of  the  Ship  sent  him  like  a 
shot  five  or  six  feet  across  the  Saloon,  landing  him  upon  his  back, 
with  legs  and  arms  in  air.  Not  being  hurt,  like  grown  children  that 
we  are,  we  enjoyed  it  equal  to  a Farce.  Other  falls  occurred  below 
and  on  Deck  not  so  harmless.  My  Friend  Lestenberger  was  sitting 
in  his  chair  by  the  Smoking  Room ; a sudden  toss  sent  him  across 
the  Deck  against  the  Bulwark ; before  he  could  recover  another  sent 
him  back,  head  and  shoulders,  against  the  walls  of  the  apartment, 
and  he  was  badly  hurt.  These  are  a few  of  the  casualties  which  attend 
those  who  venture  aboard  of  Ships. 

. On  Same  Sea  and  Ship, 

Sunday,  May  11,  1890. 

• 

Sunday  has  come  and  gone,  without  any  Public  observance  of  it 
on  board. 

A change  of  weather  welcomed  it.  Sea  and  Sky  by  their  brightness 
combined  to  make  its  advent  and  its  passage  cheerful ; and  I sat  on 
Deck  and  enjoyed  the  outlook  many  hours.  But  we  were  alone  upon 
the  Ocean,  no  Smoke  or  Sail  appeared  ; and  not  a single  Bird.  The 
Captain  trying  to  reach  smooth  waters,  instead  of  continuing  his  direct 
Northwest  course  to  Mahe,  turned  due  North,  moving  towards  the 
Tropics,  and  thence  Northwest  again,  making  for  the  time  two  sides 
of  the  triangle  instead  of  the  Hypotenuse.  Consequently,  the  Al- 
batross, which  does  not  love  the  heat,  left  us,  and  no  other  Bird  has 
come  to  take  its  place. 

This  variation  of  our  course  put  one  hundred  and  forty-eight  miles 
on  our  Voyage  to  Mahe. 

On  Same  Sea  and  Ship, 

Monday,  May  12,  1890. 

A good  day  at  Sea  this  has  been ; though  the  Ship  rolled  con- 
sidei’ably,  either  because  she  is  a Roller,  or  because  the  waters,  after 
their  sport,  have  not  recovered  their  propriety.  This  question  we 
have  not  determined  among  ourselves,  but  have  rather  thought  the 
gallant  creature  would  be  improved  in  her  Sea-going  qualities,  by 


STEAMSHIP  AUSTRALIEN— INDIAN  OCEAN. 


331 


having  greater  girth  ; but  her  steadiness  would  thus  be  improved  at 
the  expense  of  speed. 

The  Captain  told  me  this  morning,  I must  relieve  myself  of  all 
anxiety  with  regard  to  my  connections  at  Mahe.  We  have  lost  several 
days,  it  is  true,  but  he  would  put  me  in  on  time.  We  ought  to  be  at 
Mahe  on  the  sixteenth,  and  leave  the  next  day  for  Mauritius ; we  will 
now  not  reach  there  till  the  nineteenth ; but  the  Steamer  with  which 
we  connect  is  bound  to  await  our  arrival  till  six  o’clock  p.  m.  of  that 
day,  and  without  any  further  mishap,  we  will  be  in  full  time.  I 
trust  this  will  be  our  fortune ; but  I am  by  no  means  confident. 

In  the  Tropics  now  ; and  we  can  feel  it.  Up  to  to-day  it  has  been 
deliciously  cool,  and  heavy  clothing  comfortable.  And  whilst  it  is 
not  yet  hot,  we  feel  we  are  advancing  more  and  more  into  the 
Dominion  of  the  Sun.  Each  hour  now  will  run  us  deeper  in,  and 
whilst,  your  Map  will  show  you,  our  Route  does  not  reach  the  Equa- 
tor, it  stops  but  few  degrees  short  of  it;  and  my  story  will,  doubtless, 
tell  you  of  uncomfortable  proximity  before  we  arrive  at  Mahe. 

Mr.  Layard  and  I had  a talk  upon  the  New  Philosophy  in  which 
he  is  a believer — as  most  of  the  Naturalists  are  now-a-days;  but 
which,  I argued,  to  say  the  least,  must  from  the  calm  and  disinter- 
ested investigator  receive  the  Scotch  Verdict,  of  “ not  proven.”  It 
is  another  question,  whether  the  Scientist  will,  in  his  search,  come 
across  the  “Missing  Link;”  if  it  exists,  why  should  he  not?  for 
“Nature  abhors  a vacuum.”  Until  this  Link  is  found,  the  New 
Philosophy  is  at  odds,  and  his  structure,  a Castle  in  the  Air ; for  the 
unfathomed  chasm  which  divides  the  Animal  from  the  Intellectual, 
cannot  be  bridged  with  a theory. 

After  Dinner  my  American  Friends  and  some  Britishers  gathered 
in  the  Smoking  Room,  and  we  talked  about  the  Past  and  Present 
eminent  men  of  our  Republic,  and  how  they  forecast  its  Future,  and 
an  hour  or  two  had  gone  before  we  were  conscious  of  their  passage. 

On  Same  Sea  and  Ship, 

Tuesday,  May  13,  1890. 

The  weather  continues  fine,  the  Heavens  are  clear  and  bright,  and 
the  deep  blue  Sea  is  sinking  more  to  rest. 

The  French  on  board  have  organized  Games  and  Sports  to  enter- 
tain us  and  help  to  speed  the  hours.  If  a Frenchman  is  not  gay,  he 


332 


LETTER  NO.  15. 


is  nothing.  This  afternoon  some  of  the  Pastimes  came  off  on  Deck, 
the  Vessel  now  maintaining  sufficiently  its  equilibrium.  There  was  : 
Picking  up  Potatoes — they  being  arranged  in  rows,  to  be  gathered 
separately  and  brought  back  to  the  base,  the  fastest  doer  the  victor, 
in  which  the  children  and  girls  engaged  ; walking  three  times  around 
the  Deck,  in  which  contest  the  men  did  not  disdain  to  join ; pitching 
a bag  loaded  with  sand,  the  muscular  youths  trying  their  arras,  as 
they  had  hitherto  tried  their  legs ; the  Evening,  after  Dinner,  closing 
witli  Music  and  tbe  Waltz.  All  joined,  either  as  participants  or  spec- 
tators, and  the  line  between  youth  and  age,  for  a while,  was  clean 
wiped  out. 

Our  Ship,  by  the  ruptured  Cylinder,  which  was  disconnected,  like 
a man  with  one  lung,  has  lost  much  of  her  power  and  speed.  I fear 
for  our  connections. 

On  Same  Ship  and  Sea, 

, Wednesday,  May  14,  1890. 

The  distance  made  in  the  preceding  twenty-four  hours — indeed, 
since  the  breakage  occurred — is  only  an  average  daily  run  of  two 
hundred  and  twenty-six  miles.  This  will  belate  us  for  the  connect- 
ing Ship  at  Mahe.  She  may  or  may  not  wait : the  Captain  says  she 
will  hold  till  six  o’clock  p.  m.  of  the  nineteenth  ; the  Purser  thinks 
she  will  await  our  arrival ; we  having  the  Mail  and  important  cargo 
for  Mauritius.  , 

The  morning  was  calm,  and  clear,  and  beautiful;  and  Flying  Fish, 
the  first  of  Animated  Nature  we  have  seen  since  the  Albatross  left 
us,  made  the  white  crests  lively  in  their  sport  or  flight — whether  we 
regard  their  movements  to  be  prompted  by  joy  or  fear — -joy  in  the 
exuberance  of  life,  or  fear  of  a pursuing  enemy. 

Towards  Evening,  showers  sped  over  us,  or  across  our  pathway ; 
by  the  time  night  fell,  clouds  shut  out  the  Stars,  and  when  I went  to 
Bed,  another  rolling  spell,  I thought,  portended. 

My  old  Friend,  Mr.  Layard,  was  very  poorly,  and  suffering  greatly 
after  Dinner.  It  is  a sad  spectacle  to  see  such  a man,  full  of  genial 
intelligence  and  knowledge  and  experience — a perfect  specimen,  with 
his  fine  face  and  snowy  hair,  of  a green  old  age — hasting  to  such  a 
Death  as  he  thinks  awaits  him.  When  we  talk  and  I see  him  seem- 
ingly forget  his  sufferings  and  fate,  I,  too,  become  oblivious,  that 


STEAMSHIP  AUSTRALIEN— INDIAN  OCEAN 


333 


beneath  his  kindly,  beaming  countenance,  there  is  a mortal  malady 
hurrying  its  work. 

Same  Ship  and  Sea, 

Thursday,  May  15,  1890. 

My  anticipations  were  realized,  and  the  roll  came  last  night,  and 
when  the  Morning  dawned  was  still  on,  and  lasted  the  entire  day. 
The  heat,  too,  has  crept  upon  us.  On  Deck  or  within  the  draft,  the 
natural  breezes,  or  those  from  the  motion  of  the  Ship,  keep  the  air 
cool  and  palatable  ; but  the  warmth  is  sensibly  felt,  when  below  and 
out  of  their  range. 

Notwithstanding  Mr.  Layard’s  sutfering  last  night,  he  appeared 
early  before  Breakfast  in  the  Reading  Room  on  Deck,  where  I do 
this  writing,  to  have  with  me  our  usual  daily  talk.  He  said  some 
pieces  had  come  from  his  cheek  bone  and  given  him  relief  from  pain, 
and  he  was  bright  as  one  of  the  Birds  which  for  many  years  he  has 
made  his  familiar  friends. 

It  has  been  too  rough  for  otri’  gay  Frenchmen  to  continue  their 
sports ; but  they  were  not  oblivions  of  their  prided  politeness,  and 
explained  to  us  the  reason  of  the  postponement. 

Last  night,  in  the  hurly-burly  of  the  waves,  a hapless  Flying  Fish 
came  aboard,  dazzled  by  the  flashing  of  our  Electric  Lights,  or  in 
flight  from  some  dreaded  foe.  Did  he  benefit  himself?  Hardly 
more,  I opine,  than  the  Bird  I saw  once,  on  our  own  James  River, 
dash  beneath  the  water  to  escape  an  Eagle’s  beak. 

SAiiE  Ship  and  Sea, 

Friday,  May  16,  1890. 

A beautiful  calm  Sea  to-day,  the  temperature  assuming  more  and 
more  of  heat,  advancing  towards  the  Sun — but,  by  no  means,  yet 
oppressive. 

In  the  Evening,  our  French  Managers  of  the  Sports  gave  ns  a 
, Concert  in  the  Music  Saloon  of  such  material  as  the  First  Class 
Passengers  afforded.  They  wanted  to  invite  the  Second  Class  to  join 
us ; there  being,  it  is  said,  some  excellent  people  among  them — doubt- 
less, quite  equal  to  our  own,  without,  maybe,  so  much  money  to  lay 
out  in  the  difference  oDFares  ; or,  perhaps,  of  unwillingness  to  spend 
it.  But  the  Captain  opposed  it,  on  the  ground,  that  the  Ship’s  Regu- 


334 


LETTER  NO.  15. 


latious  required  the  severance,  and  he  was  unwilling,  on  any  occasion, 
for  the  barrier  to  be  broken  down. 

When  satisfied  with  the  singing,  I went  to  the  Quarter-Deck,  and 
standing  at  the  Bulwark  over  the  Propeller,  enjoyed  its  motion,  dash- 
ing  the  waves  into  a whirlpool  of  flashing  Stars. 

Same  Ship  and  Sea, 

Saturday,  3Iay  17,  1890. 

I don’t  think  I have  mentioned  the  Captain’s  name — Didier.  I 
do  so  now,  since  it  occurs  to  me.  He  came  to  the  Beading  Boom 
whilst  I was  writing,  and  we  had  a long  talk.  He  told  me  he  was 
in  command  of  a French  Man-of-War  upon  our  Coast  during  nearly 
the  whole  of  our  War;  and  met  Generals  Lee,  Beauregard,  Johnston, 
and  other  of  our  distinguished  Confederates.  The  Captains  of  all 
the  Vessels  of  this  Line  are  French  Officers  assigned  to  duty ; and 
the  Ships  themselves  are  contingents,  to  be  turned  in  time  of  War 
into  Government  use,  and  are  built  accordingly,  both  for  strength 
and  speed.  He  thinks  there  must  be  another  War  between  his 
Country  and  Germany,  before  old  scores  are  settled  and  old  sores 
healed.  His  people  are  preparing ; but  I don’t  think  they  are  quite 
as  ready  as  he  tries  to  convince  himself.  He  is  a small,  lithe, 
active  man,  of  fifty  to  sixty,  good-looking,  and  of  French  type  and 
characteristics  all  over — and  speaking  English  quite  well,  uses  it  to 
make  himself  agreeable,  enforcing  his  lingo  with  the  national  gesticu- 
lar  enthusiasm. 

After  Breakfast,  my  old  Friend,  Mr.  Layard,  sang  for  me  some 
Southern  and  Confederate  Songs,  accompanied  on  the  Piano  by  Miss 
Mansell,  his  niece,  travelling  with  him.  He  has  a fine  voice,  and 
being  a great  admirer  of  onr  people,  and  sympathizing  with  us,  sang 
for  me  most  admirably,  and  with  sjiirit,  Dixie,  My  Maryland,  Way 
down  on  the  Sewanee  Biver,  and  other  Negro  Songs ; till,  invoking 
a thousand  memories,  he  stirred  me  as  Old  Minstrels  have  stirred 
their  listeners  many  a time  before.. 

For  the  first  time  in  some  days  I was  able  to  walk  the  Deck  with 
absolute  confidence.  The  waves  had  let  down  and  the  Ship  moved 
through  them  without  a tremor,  and  for  several  hours  I walked, 
enjoying  its  deep  blue,  white-capped  surface.  Nature  seems  to  be 
compensatory  ; with  the  coming  of  warm  weather  there  appears  to  be 


STEAMSHIP  AUSTRALIEN— INDIAN  OCEAN. 


336 


the  less  necessity  for  exercise,  and  though  closely  confined  and  unable 
to  walk  my  health  continues  perfect. 

Same  Ship  and  Sea, 

Sunday,  May  18,  1890. 

There  was  no  service  aboard,  but  all  games  and  sports  ceased  in 
recognition  of  the  day. 

Another  Tropic  Shower  came  along,  this  time  the  heaviest  we  have 
had ; the  water  descended  in  volumes,  beating  through  the  heavy 
close-woven  canvass  awning  like  a Sifter,  and  flooding  the  Decks. 
But  there  was  no  Wind  nor  Lightning,  and  save  the  Rain,  there  was 
no  disturbance  of  the  peace. 

The  Thermometer  went  to  eighty-four  in  the  Saloon,  and  we  could 
only  keep  quiet.  The  Ship,  not  similarly  suffering,  made  more  speed 
and  scored  three  hundred  and  forty  miles  in  the  twenty-four  hours 
ending  at  twelve  o’clock  noon.  To-morrow,  no  more  mishaps  occur- 
ring, we  will  reach  Mahe  by  four  p.  in.  Whether  the  Ship  for 
Mauritius  will  await  us,  we  do  not  know.  I have  hitherto  remarked, 
we  ought  to  have  been  there  by  the  sixteenth.  I fear  she  will  or 
can  not  stay,  and  I be  compelled  to  give  up  my  visit  to  the  Cape  and 
go  on  to  Europe.  But  we  will  see.  I will  finish  this  Letter  and 
give  it  to  the  Mail  Agent  to  carry  on  and  Post  at  Marseilles,  in  case 
the  connection  is  made  in  Mahe ; if  not,  I will  carry  it  myself. 

This  afternoon  I hfid  a talk  with  the  Son  of  Mr.  Layard,  who 
accompanies  his  Father.  He  is  thirty-five  or  forty,  and  has  spent 
most  of  his  life  officially  or  in  travel  among  the  Pacific  Islands.  He 
says  he  has  visited  all  of  any  import,  and  the  Natives  from  New 
Guinea  and  Australia  Eastward  are  still  Cannibals,  the  efforts  and 
declarations  of  the  Missionaries  to  the  contrary  notwithstanding ; 
and  instances  of  this  propensity  and  appetite  are  constantly  occurring. 
On  one  occasion  a Chief  told  him  an  oven  was  prepared  in  which  to 
cook  his  Father,  between  whom  some  official  difficulty  had  occurred, 
and  the  old  gentleman  barely  escaped.  The  old  gentleman  himself 
had  previously  told  me  the  same,  and  he  felt  so  near  the  catastrophe 
that  he  fully  realized  the  pungency  of  Sydney  Smith’s  wit,  with 
regard  to  the  curious  feelings  the  Missionary  must  have  in  finding 
himself  on  the  Sideboard,  served  up  for  Breakfast. 


336 


LETTER  NO.  15. 


In  the  Evening  my  old  Friend  and  I had  another  talk  of  much 
interest.  He  was  again  suffering,  but  in  the  intervals  between  the 
paroxysms  of  pain,  told  me  interesting  incidents — among  them,  how 
in  his  boyhood  he  had  met  Sir  Walter  Scott,  visiting  at  his  Father’s 
House  in  Florence.  Sir  Walter  was  then  abroad  seeking  health  and 
trying  to  restore  the  marvellous  powers  then  broken  down  by  strain 
of  over  efforts  in  his  sad  misfortunes.  Mr.  Layard’s  Father  had  a 
beautiful  Edition  of  his  Works,  just  issued  from  the  Parisian  Press, 
and  showed  the  Volumes  to  Sir  Walter,  who  was  much  pleased  with 
their  elegance,  and  took  with  him  the  ond  containing  “ Count  Robert 
of  Paris,”  telling  Mr.  Layard  he  wanted  to  see  how  it  read  in  its  fine 
clothes.  When  he  brought  it  back  his  Father  said,  “ Well,  Scott, 
what  do  you  think  of  it?  ” Sir  Walter  replied,  a shade  of  sadness 
crossing  his  benignant  face,  “Ah,  Layard,  the  dress  is  beautiful,  but 
the  Book  itself  smells  of  Apojdexy.”  Not  long  thereafter  the  enemy 
came,  which  the  Great  Author  thought  his  own  work  foretold. 

I recall  in  this  connection  an  interview  with  Wordsworth,  that 
George  Ticknor  gives  an  account  of  in  his  Journal,  September,  1835, 
in  which  the  Poet  described  his  last  visit  to  Sir  Walter  Scott,  just  as  he 
was  setting  off  for  Naples,  broken  down  in  mind  and  body,  and  con- 
scious of  it.  When  his  last  two  Stories  were  mentioned,  he  said  : 
“ Don’t  speak  of  them  ; they  smell  of  Apoplexy.”  One  of  the  saddest 
Stories  of  all  Literary  History  is  the  noble  and  heroic  struggle  of  the 
Great  Magician  with  a burden  which  bore  him  too  early  to  his  Grave 
— all  the  more  sad  because  the  High  and  the 'Good  of  a Country  he 
had  so  greatly  adorned  could  easily  have  relieved  him. 

On  Same  Ship  and  Sea, 

Monday,  May  19,  1890. 

To  Taylor:  I will  close  this  Letter  now  and  await  my  arrival  in 
Mahe  this  afternoon,  to  know  what  to  do  with  it.  I want  it  to  travel 
by  the  shortest  route. 

I am  hungering  and  thirsting  to  hear  from  you.  My  Letters  tell 
you  how  rarely  on  this  long  Tour  your  tidings  have  come  to  me. 
Now  I cannot  possibly  hear  till  I reach  Cape  Town.  If  I should  go 
to  Marseilles  I will  not  hear  any  more,  for  I will  leave  your  Letters 
behind,  to  be  forwarded  to  our  Home.  Nothing  like  these  contre- 


STEAMSHIP  AUSTBALIEN— INDIAN  OCEAN. 


337 


tem'ps  have  occim’ed  before  on  any  of  my  Travels.  After  our  arrival 
at  Mahe  I will  add  a line  and  give  you  definite  information. 

What  would  I not  give  to  look  in  upon  you  all  and  see  how  things 
are  moving?  How  about  your  improvements?  How  about  the  res- 
toration from  the  fire?  How  is  your  health?  How  are  Dr.  Mason, 
Margaret,  and  Mary?  It  seems  an  age  since  your  Letters  came 
mouths  ago,  and  Margaret’s  did  not  come.  Never  again  will  I take 
another  extensive  Tour,  so  I now  declare.  The  wear  and  tear  of 
absence  is  too  great  to  be  endured — when  Letters  lag  upon  the  road 
or  fly  wanderingly  over  the  World.  I am  now  looking  to  the  Cape; 
not  that  I may  gratify  my  appetite  for  Travel,  but  that  I may  relieve, 
by  your  Letters  there  awaiting  me,  a famine  now  inflicting  such 
unrest. 

To  Charles:  I trust  all  are  well  in  Alexandria.  Your  last  gave 
gloomy  accounts  of  the  invasion  of  the  Grippe ; and  how  the  creature 
knocked  you  all  about.  I hope  everyone  is  again  restored  to  perfect 
poise  and  health. 

The  Letter  I prepared  to  be  mailed  in  Sydney  by  the  Consul — No. 
14,  to  Margaret — left  there  via  San  Francisco  on  the  16th  of  this 
Mouth  by  Regular  Steamer.  This,  should  I mail  it,  will,  in  the 
Race  from  opposite  points  of  the  Compass,  reach  you  about  the  same 
time,  probably.  May  they  both  have  a prosperous  and  speedy  voy- 
age, and  a happy  meeting  at  our  Home. 

With  tenderest  love  for  all, 

F. 

5 o’clock  p.  m.  Mahe  is  in  sight.  I mail  this,  therefore,  with  the 
Postal  Agent  on  the  Steamer.  I go  on  with  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Nead  to 
Mauritius  and  the  Cape  Colonies. 


22 


338 


LETTER  NO.  16. 


[No.  16.] 


At  MahS,  one  of  the  Seycheixe  Group, 

AND  Indian  Ocean, 

Steamship  Eio  Grande,  Messageries  Maritimes  Line, 

Tuesday,  May  20,  1890. 


My  Dear  Taylor, — 


Yesterday  I finished  No.  15  to  Mary  when  we  sighted  Mahe,  and 
mailed  it  in  two  Envelopes  with  the  Mail  Agent  on  the  Steamship 
Australien,  to  be  posted  by  him  on  arrival  in  Marseilles.  There 
will  be  a race  between  that  and  No.  14,  left  with  the  Consul  in  Syd- 
ney to  be  forwarded  via  San  Francisco.  They  ought  to  reach  you, 
travelling  from  different  points  of  the  Compass,  about  the  same  time. 

Whatever  betides  them  in  their  speed,  may  they  both  have  a safe 
deliverance ! 

Onr  approach  and  entrance  to  Mahe  was  exceedingly  beautiful. 
It  is  the  largest  of  the  Seychelles — pronounced  Seeshelles — a group 
lying,  your  Map  will  show  you.  Northeast  of  Madagascar,  about  5° 
South.  They  are  among  England’s  world-wide  possessions,  and  are 
thirty-four  in  number.  Mahe  is  the  largest,  and  the  one  which  con- 
nects them  with  the  World.  It  is  a long,  narrow  Island,  nineteen 
miles  by  six,  and  is  said  to  have  a population  of  ten  thousand,  and 
as  a Colony  is  subordinate  to  Mauritius. 

Early  in  the  afternoon  of  yesterday  we  sighted  various  members 
of  the  Group,  lifting  themselves  from  out  the  Sea,  which,  together 
with  the  Sky,  could  not  have  been  better  for  their  introduction.  All 
we  saw  were  high  above  the  water  ; and  approaching,  they  gathered 
thicker  about  and  around  us,  unfolding  more  and  more  their  charms. 
Along  their  Shores  the  Cocoanut  trees  abounded,  running  their  most 
characteristic  of  Tropic  growths  up  the  flanks  and  gorges  of  the 
Mountains,  out  of  which  peeped  here  and  there  the  Native  Huts. 
Steaming  on,  and  getting  nearer  and  nearer  to  Mahe,  the  Islands 
increased  in  number,  and  vistas  opened  among  them  in  exquisite  and 
varied  beauty,  I have  never  seen  surpassed ; all  rising  into  heights 
thick-clad  with  vegetation.  Mahe,  much  the  largest  of  any,  stretched 
its  length  for  miles  before  ns,  its  elevations  rising  to  three  thousand 
feet  or  more — Port  Victoria,  the  chief  town  of  it  and  of  the  Group, 


STEAMSHIP  A USTRALIEN—MAHE. 


339 


crouching  at  their  feet,  half  hid  among  the  trees.  In  all  my  Tropic 
experience,  I have  witnessed  scarce  any  scene  more  beautiful. 

Our  big  Ship  crept  slowly  and  carefully  toward  the  Port;  and  near 
the  setting  of  the  Sun,  di’opped  Anchor  some  distance  from  the  Shore. 
Farther  in  we  saw  this  Steamer,  a much  smaller  craft,  awaiting  our 
arrival.  Soon  its  Officers  and  those  of  the  Port  were  aboard,  and  the 
usual  salutations  and  business  exchanges  passed,  and  my  Friends,  Mr. 
and  Mrs.  Nead,  and  I,  the  only  First  Class  passengers,  prepared  to 
change  our  quarters.  I am  fortunate  to  have  met  them,  and  now  to 
be  their  fellow-traveller.  He  is  a business  man,  having  been  actively 
engaged  nearly  all  his  life  in  connection  with  the  Pennsylvania  Eail- 
road  system,  and  he  and  Mrs.  Nead  being  experienced  travellers, 
know  how  to  get  along.  He  saves  me  an  immensity  of  trouble  in 
gathering  information  in  advance,  with  regard  to  the  times  and  modes 
of  conveyances,  and  she  insists  upon  helping  me  in  any  way  she  can. 
We  all  agree  well  as  fellow-voyageurs ; and  together  we  propose  to 
visit  the  Cape  Colonies,  and  thence  to  England. 

When  the  hour  of  our  departure  came,  and  the  Steam  Launch  was 
ready  to  convey  us,  the  Passengers  of  the  Australien,  all  of  whom  by 
this  time  I knew,  assembled  on  Deck  to  bid  us  Good  Bye ! and 
moving  off,  they  sent  us  their  farewells  and  kindest  wishes  with 
waving  of  hats  and  handkerchiefs,  and  my  noble  looking  Friend,  Mr. 
Layard,  with  his  snow-white,  flowing  hair,  sang  me  “ My  Maryland,” 
his  full,  rich  voice  sounding  through  the  darkness  over  the  waters 
with  sweetest  melody.  I was  sorry  to  part  from  the  old  man,  for  we 
can  hardly  ever  meet  again.  He  gave  me  his  card  and  address  in 
England,  and  made  me  promise  to  write  to  him  on  my  arrival  at 
Home  and  tell  him  how  time  and  travel  tided  with  me  on  my  Jour- 
ney : he  and  Mrs.  Layard  giving  me  Letters  of  Introduction  to  rela- 
tives and  friends  at  the  Cape. 

The  Launch  speedily  brought  us  to  the  Steamer  Rio  Grande,  where 
preparations  were  made  for  our  reception,  and  soon  I was  quartered 
in  a nice,  comfortable  State-Room  to  myself.  The  Vessel  looks  very 
small  in  comparison  with  the  Australien,  being  only  two  thousand 
six  hundred  tons ; but  things  are  comfortable  enough,  and  I have  no 
doubt  I will  have  a pleasant  voyage  to  Mauritius.  Thus  ends  another 
long  link — three  thousand  nine  hundred  and  twenty-two  miles  from 
King  George’s  Sound,  Australia — six  thousand  and  three  miles  from 
Sydney ; that  much  nearer  Home.  V ery  soon  after  coming  aboard. 


340 


LETTER  NO.  16. 


I was  in  Bed,  and  fast  asleep ; a little  tired  after  the  farewells  of  the 
transfer. 

This  morning,  I was  up  by  daylight  to  see  our  departure  from 
Mahe.  The  going  out  by  the  Rising,  Avas  as  exquisite  as  the  coming 
in  by  the  Setting  Sun.  At  half-past  six  or  seven  we  Avere  under  Avay, 
moving  near  the  Australien  on  our  passage.  Again  our  friends  were 
on  Deck  to  greet  us.  My  old  Comrade  was  there  among  them.  I 
sent  him  the  watchword  of  “ My  Maryland  !”  and  he  responded  by 
singing,  with  his  melodious  voice,  one  of  its  stanzas  and  refrain  ; and 
then  our  Ship  steamed  out  ujaou  its  course,  and  soon  the  Australien, 
and  then  Mahe,  sank  beloAV  the  waters. 

[The  promise  to  Mr.  Layard,  and  a similar  one  to  Miss  Mansell, 
the  nice  young  Lady  travelling  under  the  care  of  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Layard,  I fulfilled.  Their  responses,  containing  nothing  whatever 
of  a private  nature,  I desire  to  preserve  as,  to  me,  interesting  travel 
incidents,  and  therefore  print  them  here. 


Budleigh,  Satteeton,  Devonshire,  England, 

October  31,  1890. 


My  Dear  Governor  Holliday, — 


Your  Letter  of  September  3 has  found  me  down  in  this  pretty 
Devonshire  Village,  AA^here  I have  taken  a house  for  the  Winter 
mouths,  Avith  the  option  of  a long  lease  if  I like  the  place,  and  Avhat 
is  of  more  consequence,  if  it  likes  me  ! if  I can  live  here  in  the 
Winter. 

Every  one  who  lives  here  speaks  of  its  salubrity.  It  is  one  of  the 
warm  nooks  of  England,  and  our  house  is  on  a terrace,  sheltei’ed  from 
all  the  cold  winds,  and  open  to  the  South.  We  have  a nice  Sea  view, 
a Garden  before  and  behind,  a nice  Green  House,  a glass-covered 
Verandah  around  the  front  side,  Coach  House  and  Stable.  The  soil 
is  sandy  and  drainage  good.  We  have  been  down  here  a month,  and 
like  Avhat  we  have  seen  of  the  place.  Everybody  is  beginning  to 
call,  as  Ave  are  “ settling  doAvn,”  and  there  is  a very  nice,  select 
Society — no  end  of  Clubs  and  Societies : Tennis  Club,  Foot-ball, 
Cricket  Club,  Glee  Club,  Reading  Society,  Dramatic  Society,  Funny 
Reading,  &c.,  and  much  sociability  ; many  Old  Indian  Officials,  Civil, 


LETTER  FROM  E.  C.  LA  YARD. 


341 


Military  and  Naval ; Retired  Officers ; promising,  I think,  that  we 
shall  have  a good  time. 

I have  found  several  old  friends  living  in  the  neighborhood,  and 
am  going  to  an  early  Dinner  with  Admiral  Moorman  this  afternoon 
at  Exmouth,  four  miles  off.  He  took  my  late  beloved  wife  and  me 
to  New  Zealand  in  his  Ship,  H.  M.  S.  Cossack,  twenty-nine  years  ago  ! 
Leo  [Mr.  Layard’s  Son]  and  I have  had  some  jolly  Sea  fishing,  and 
are  promised  a permit  to  fish  for  Salmon  and  Trout  in  the  Otter, 
which  debouches  here  into  the  Sea,  and  is  one  of  the  best  Trout  Rivers 
in  England. 

My  dear  wife  has  been  very  busy  furnishing  and  getting  the  house 
in  order.  I chaff  her  and  tell  her  she  ought  to  be  very  happy  spend- 
ing so  much  money,  which  occupation  all  Ladies  like.  She  and  Leo 
send  their  kindest  regards  to  you,  and  are  delighted  to  hear  of  the 
success  of  your  Globe  girdling. 

I told  you  you  would  be  pleased  with  Mauritius.  It  is  a lovely 
spot,  is  it  not?  And  so  you  saw  plenty  of  the  Cape  Colony,  and  the 
Museum  in  Cape  Town,  which  I founded.  I am  sorry,  however,  that 
you  missed  seeing  Dr.  Atherton  and  Mr.  Carter.  The  latter  returns 
home  in  the  Spring  of  next  year. 

Now  you  want  a reply  to  your  questions  about  my  health.  There 
is  little  alteration ; at  times  I suffer  awfully.  The  Doctors  say  all 
has  been  done  that  can  be  done,  and  time  alone  will  show  how  it  will 
end.  The  horrible  suppuration  still  continues.  I said  to  my  Doctor 
the  other  day : “ This  shows  that  decay  is  going  on ; ” he  nodded. 
“ Then,  it  may  cut  away  the  bone,  touching  the  brain,  and  death  or 
madness  will  be  the  result?”  “Yes!”  he  said,  “that  may  be  so; 
but  we  will  hope  that  it  is  a long  way  off : your  constitution  is  so 
good,  that  we  hope  you  will  live  it  down!”  At  67  one  cannot  hope 
to  live  down  much  ! ! Now  you  know  the  verdict. 

I know  too  much  of  Anatomy  to  be  deceived.  I don’t  hide  from 
myself  what  may  be  the  result.  All  that  I hope  is,  that  it  may  be 
Death,  not  Madness. 

My  Dear  Wife  and  Son  are  both  quite  well,  and  desire  all  sorts  of 
kind  wishes  and  remembrances  for  you.  We  often  talk  of  you,  with 
most  pleasurable  recollections.  After  you  left  us  at  Mah6,  one  of  the 
Stewards  attempted  two  robberies  : one  on  a new  passenger,  the  other 
on  Mrs.  Moore’s  Diamond  Rings  in  the  middle  of  the  night.  Moore 
jumped  out  of  his  Berth  and  grappled  him,  but  he  got  away.  Moore 


342 


LETTER  NO.  16. 


was  badly  hurt.  Nothing  was  brought  home  to  the  man,  owing  to 
the  Captain’s  indecision,  but  suspicion  was  so  sti’ong  against  him,  that 
he  was  left  at  Aden,  My  Wife,  the  moment  she  set  eyes  on  him 
coming  on  board,  said,  ‘‘That  man  is. a ruffian  !”  Our  kind  remem- 
brances to  Mr.  and  Mrs,  Nead,  if  they  eV^er  get  home  again,  and  with 
every  good  wish  for  yourself, 

Believe  me  most  sincerely  yours, 

E,  C.  Layard. 


H.  B.  M.  Consulate, 

Stettin,  November  12,  1890. 

3Iy  Dear  Governor  Holliday, — 

Many  thanks  for  your  kind,  interesting  Letter,  and  very  excellent 
Photogi’aph,  I have  the  latter  in  a pretty  frame,  and  value  both 
highly.  Kindly  forgive  my  seeming  neglect  in  not  having  acknowl- 
edged their  receipt  before.  I have  many  times  intended  doing  so, 
but  my  fingers  have  been  at  times  too  cold,  and  there  have  been  other 
causes  to  prevent  my  doing  so,  the  chief  being,  that  I have  had  sad 
accounts  from  home  of  my  Dear  Father’s  health,  and,  consequently, 
had  no  heart  to  write  to  any  one.  I think  I told  you  he  had  a spell 
of  sickness  when  I left  home.  At  Melbourne  and  Adelaide  they  sent 
me  news  of  his  fast  regaining  health,  and  I received  a dear  Letter 
from  him,  and  better  accounts  still  on  my  arrival  here.  But  since 
then  I hear  he  is  not  so  well ; indeed,  has  not  been  well  since  I left 
home.  I am  very  unhappy  about  him,  but,  of  course,  have  to  suppress 
my  grief  as  much  as  possible  here. 

My  Sister  and  Mr,  Powell  are  delighted  to  have  me  with  them, 
and  do  all  in  their  power  to  make  my  visit  a pleasant  one.  They 
have  two  sweet  children,  a boy  and  girl,  Mansell  8,  and  Lynette  6 : 
the  latter  quite  a little  Lord  Fauntleroy  girl,  very  fair,  with  blue 
eyes.  They  are  both  lovable  and  affectionate,  and,  of  course,  we  are 
great  friends.  They  know  about  you,  and  Lynette  thinks  you  look 
very  kind.  I take  lessons  in  German  with  their  Fraulein,  and  find  it 
rather  easy  to  read  and  write  the  Language ; but  speaking  it,  much 
more  difficult.  I,  also,  take  lessons  in  Music,  but  from  teachers  who, 
unlike  Fraulein,  do  not  know  a word  of  English,  My  Sister  thinks 


LETTER  FROM  MISS  MARY  MANSELL. 


343 


that  an  advantage,  and  we  manage  to  understand  each  other  some- 
how. 

This  being  an  important  Military  City,  there  are  soldiers  of  all 
kinds  and  descri2)tions  to  be  seen  and  met  constantly.  The  Officers 
are  very  nice,  indeed.  It  is  customary  for  Gentlemen  to  bow  to 
Ladies  first ; which,  with  other  customs,  I found  strange.  But  you 
have  been  in  Germany,  and  know  their  manners  and  customs  better 
than  I. 

On  the  River  Oder  there  are  great  Docks ; the  V ulcan  Works, 
where  the  Horth  German  Lloyd  Steamers  are  built.  The  Kaiser 
Wilhelm  II.,  which  left  Sydney  a few  days  before  we  did,  is  one  of 
that  Line,  you  know.  In  warm  weather  we  used  to  have  most 
delightful  outings  to  different^  picturesque  spots.  The  Forests  are 
very  charming,  especially  the  Beech.  One  day  some  children  acted 
the  “Babes  in  the  Wood,”  much  to  my  delight.  The  lights  and 
shades  reminded  me  of  “ A Midsummer  Night’s  Dream  ; ” I could 
suj^ply  the  characters  and  other  inhabitants  of  Fairy  Land.  It  was 
very  sweet  in  the  other  mortals  to  get  up  such  an  entertainment  for 
this  mortal’s  jdeasure.  Last  year  some  Tyrolese  Singers  visited  the 
spot ; the  effect  was  admirable.  If  they  come  again  before  I go  home, 
I hope  to  hear  them. 

We  drove  one  day  to  Seven  Mills  and  Ponds.  Mr.  Powell  took 
his  Camera  and  Photograjihed  us.  We,  also,  had  a German  Country 
Tea  or  Supper  there,  and  enjoyed  it  very  much ; the  Miller  and  one 
of  his  pretty  Daughters  waiting  on  us.  Everything  being  new  to 
me,  rendered  it  the  more  interesting. 

Generally,  after  five  o’clock,  we  would  go  to  some  pretty  sjiot  down 
the  River ; often  to  Concerts,  which  were  of  the  best  kind  and  of  the 
highest  Class,  held  in  the  open  air,  hundreds  of  chairs  and  tables 
being  jjlaced  in  the  Gardens,  that  were  decorated  with  hanging  Baskets 
of  Flowers,  and  Ferns,  and  numerous  colored  Lanterns,  which  with 
the  Electric  Lights  made  a brilliant  scene,  to  which  the  River  added, 
with  its  many  Steamers  and  Boats  of  every  sort  and  size  passing  to 
and  fro.  Returning  on  a Steamer  at  ten  o’clock,  we  would  stoj)  at  a 
Restaurant  and  have  a good  hot  Siqjper.  High  living,  you  will  say. 
No ! only  doing  in  Germany  as  the  Germans. 

Now,  the  Opera  Season  is  on.  I am  looking  forward  to  many 
more  charming  hours.  At  a Concert  one  Evening,  Tanuhauser  was 
rendered  so  exquisitely,  I seemed  to  hear  Music  for  the  first  time. 


344 


LETTER  NO.  16. 


Soon  tliei'e  will  be  the  usual  Winter  Entertain ments,  Dinners,  Balls, 
Skating,  and  so  forth,  which  I shall  only  too  gladly  tell  you  about,  if 
you  care  to  hear  of  my  doings  again. 

My  Sister  and  Mr.  Powell  read  your  Letter  with  much  pleasure, 
and  thought  it  exceedingly  kind  in  you  to  write. 

We  had  an  attempted  burglary  on  the  Australien  at  Mahe  the 
night  you  left  us.  Some  one  attempted  to  steal  Mrs.  Moore’s  Finger 
Rings.  She  woke  just  as  the  thief  was  going  to  gag  or  stab  her,  and 
roused  her  husband,  who  called  for  assistance,  but  in  vain;  he  ran 
after  the  person  and  got  two  wounds,  one  in  the  shoulder  and  one  in 
the  arm.  I think  the  poor  woman  was  terribly  upset,  and  I was 
myself  terrified,  being  quite  alone  in  the  large  Cabin.  Kind  Mrs. 
Lambert  went  with  me  to  the  door  the  first  night,  and  waited  while 
I turned  on  the  light  and  searched  in  the  empty  Cabin  near  and  in 
my  own  before  venturing  to  bed,  and  told  me  if  I felt  nervous,  to 
knock  on  her  childrens’  wall,  and  she  would  instruct  them  to  reply 
at  any  time.  The  Moores’  insisted  upon  a thorough  investigation ; 
the  suspecjed  person  was  imprisoned  before  we  left  Mahe,  and  then 
sent  off  quietly  at  Aden.  Kind  Captain  Didier  was  greatly  annoyed 
about  the  matter,  and  excited  our  sympathy. 

Soon  after  that  a gentleman  who  sat  next  to  Mrs.  Moore,  you 
remember,  became  very  ill,  and  lost  his  mind ; Soldiers  had  to  watch 
him  day  and  night,  and  only  that,  fortunately,  the  weather  was  un- 
usually cool,  and  a breeze  stirring  in  the  Red  Sea,  he  must  have  died. 
An  English  Army  Doctor  came  on  board  at  Aden,  and  he  and  our 
Doctor  held  a consultation.  You  see  what  a Chapter  of  accidents  we 
had  after  you  left  us. 

On  the  Red  Sea  we  passed  through  an  army  of  Locusts.  I enclose 
a pair  of  wings  to  let  you  know  what  they  are  like  ; maybe  you  have 
had  experience  of  a similar  phenomenon  on  your  extensive  trawels. 
For  miles,  indeed  a whole  day  and  night,  we  steamed  through  them. 
On  either  side  of  the  Ship  the  thick  lines  of  brilliant  coloring  with 
the  glowing  Sunshine  and  the  deep  blue  waters  had  a dazzling  effect. 
We  wei’e  about  sixty  miles  from  the  nearest  land,  and  about  six  hun- 
dred from  Suez  when  they  were  first  seen,  and  it  was  marvellous  how 
they  could  keep  alive  such  a distance,  only  a very  few  managing  to 
fly  on  board ; they  managed  well  to  keep  on  the  top  of  the  masses  of 
dead  so  long.  A West  wind  blew  them  from  Egypt. 


LETTER  FROM  MISS  MARY  3IANSELL. 


345 


We  went  on  Shore  at  Mah6  and  had  a delicious  early  Breakfast; 
only  the  Layards  and  myself  saw  the  Turtle  Ponds,  the  double 
Cocoannt  Trees  in  the  Government  Grounds,  the  Post  Office,  Church 
of  England,  and  everything  interesting  possible  in  the  short  time.  I 
was  presented  with  an  excellent  bunch  of  Frangipani  Flowers,  and 
Mrs.  Layard  with  some  Guava  Jelly  by  our  host.  The  Natives 
afforded  us  much  interest  and  amusement. 

At  Port  Said  we,  also,  went  off  to  see  the  sights.  It  is  a very 
interesting  place.  Don’t  be  shocked  when  I tell  you  I visited  the 
Roulette  Table  there.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Layard  took  me  into  the  Casino, 
and  we  drank  Coffee  out  of  glasses,  and  listened  to  the  Music.  Seeing 
some  of  our  Lady  and  Gentleman  passengers  go  into  a side  Room, 
Mrs.  Layard  said  I might  go,  too.  I found  them  standing  before  a 
Table,  with  piles  of  Gold  and  Silver.  Being  told  what  it  meant, 
never  having  seen  anything  of  the  kind  before,  I put  down  a Shilling 
between  three  numbers  and  immediately  won  six. 

The  Donkeys  afforded  me  great  amusement,  some  of  them  called 
Mrs.  Langtry,  Mary  Anderson,  and  other  well-known  names.  Of 
course,  the  Donkey  men  and  boys  begged  us  to  take  a ride,  and  I 
would  have  been  persuaded,  and  I know  have  enjoyed  the  fun  im- 
mensely, but  did  not  like  to  alone,  and  my  good  people  could  not  be 
expected  to  join  me  at  their  age. 

The  fine  Ship  Australien  went  right  through  the  Suez  Canal  with- 
out stopping.  How  wonderfully  interesting  it  is  ! 

May  24,  Captain  Didier  gave  us  a Champagne  Dinner;  Sir  Eugene 
L.,  a new-comer,  proposed  the  Queen’s  health,  and  Mr.  Layard  the 
French  Republic  and  Captain  Didier;  afterwards,  “God  save  the 
Queen  ” was  played  and  sung.  Mr.  Munroe,  the  sick  passenger  of 
whom  I have  spoken,  sent  Mr.  Layard  and  myself  an  extra  Bottle  of 
Champagne  in  honor  of  the  occasion. 

We  remained  a few  days  in  Marseilles,  driving  about  to  the  various 
places  of  interest,  and  then  went  on  to  Paris,  staying  there,  also,  a 
few  days,  seeing  as  much  of  the  City  of  Charms  as  we  could  in  that 
time.  Then  my  friends  put  me  in  charge  of  a staid  old  Courier,  who 
escorted  me  safely  to  Berlin.  En  Route,  we  spent  some  time  in  the 
wonderful  Cathedral  of  Cologne ; fortunately.  Service  was  holding 
at  the  time,  and  I heard  the  grand  Organ  and  Choir.  We  spent  a 
few  hours  in  Berlin,  but  I hope  to  see  more  of  it  soon. 


346 


LETTER  NO.  16. 


My  Sister  says  I must,  of  course,  visit  England  before  I return  to 
my  home  in  dear  beautiful  Sydney,  She  tells  me  what  a marvellous 
Country  America  is,  of  the  the  beauty  and  grandeur  of  its  Scenery ; 
but,  alas  ! it  is  not  at  all  likely  tliat  I will  ever  be  fortunate  enough 
to  see  it. 

Are  you  ever  likely  to  visit  Sydney  again  ? If  so  I surely  hope 
you  will  honor  my  Dear  ones  with  a visit,  I wrote  to  them  about 
your  kindness  to  me.  Last  week  I sent  Mother  a box  of  Flowers, 
and  other  little  things  that  my  friends  here  have  been  good  enough  to 
teach  me  how  to  make  for  Christmas,  and  my  having  made  them  will, 
I am  sure,  please  and  interest  them  all  at  that  happy  time. 

It  gets  dark  so  very  early  now,  I can  scarcely  see  to  write.  Mrs. 
Layard  has  not  yet  replied  to  my  last  Letter,  and  I cannot,  therefore, 
tell  you  how  Dear  Mr.  Layard  is.  Doubtless,  he  has  written  you 
himself,  ere  this.  I have  very  many  mementoes  of  my  first  Voyage 
on  the  good  Australien.  The  Doctor  gave  me  a large  group  of  him- 
self, Captain  Didier,  and  the  other  Officers  of  the  Ship.  It  is  most 
excellent.  Believe  me, 

Yours  most  siucei'ely,  Avith  my  very  kindest  regards, 

Mary  Mansell. 

If  you  visit  Sydney  again,  I hope  I shall  be  at  home.  There  are 
so  many  lovely  spots  we  know  of,  that  all  strangers  should  see — on 
the  Hawkesbury  and  Georsfes  River  for  instance. 

M.  M.] 

The  Seychelles  are  interesting  Islands  and  of  some  Commercial 
value.  Their  chief  exports  are  Vanilla  and  Cocoanuts  and  Oil, 
They  have  Beef,  Turtle  and  Land  Tortoises — the  last  of  enormous 
size,  some  of  a thousand  pounds  in  weight ; and  three  of  them,  Pras- 
lin,  Curieuse  and  Rotonde  alone  produce  the  Coco-de-Mer,  or  Double 
Cocoanut,  one  of  the  strangest  and  most  curious  freaks  of  Nature  I 
have  ever  seen.  Mr.  McDonald,  a Scotchman,  now  living  in  Aus- 
ti’alia,  on  his  way  to  his  old  home,  a fellow  passenger  on  the  Austra- 
lien, bought  one  from  a Native  purposely  to  present  to  me.  I should 
have  liked  to  take  it  home,  but  it  was  too  large  and  heavy,  and  I 
could  not  carry  it.  The  Seychelles  are  of  Granite  formation,  though 
abutting:  on  Coral  Banks : after  Nature’s  fierce  fires  had  built  the 


STEAMSHIP  RIO  GRANDE— INDIAN  OCEAN. 


347 


Mountains,  the  industrious  little  insect  fringed  them  with  Reefs  of  its 
own  delicate  Architecture.  OIF  about  one  hundred  miles  towards  the 
Southwest  lie  the  Amiraute  Group — the  final  e silent,  or  expressed  at 
pleasure  in  pronunciation — eleven  in  number,  only  twenty  or  twenty- 
five  feet  above  the  Sea,  and  of  purely  coral  workmanship.  These, 
also,  are  British  Possessions. 

When  I went  on  Deck  this  morning  I met  a Frenchman,  now 
living  in  Mah6,  on  his  way  to  Mauritius,  who  speaks  English,  and 
we  had  some  talk.  He  told  me  there  was  a Dr.  Abbott,  from  Phila- 
delphia, on  board,  who  had  spent  some  time  in  Africa.  AVhen  I was, 
a few  moments  after,  taking  my  Coffee,  I met  him,  and  during  the 
day  had  a great  deal  of  talk  with  him  about  Africa  and  its  people. 
I introduced  him  to  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Nead,  and  being  all  Philadel- 
phians, they  had  much  conversation  about  things  and  people  with 
which  and  whom  they  are  mutually  acquainted. 

I ought  jto  have  mentioned,  that  most  of  those  who  gathered  about 
the  Ships  at  Mahe  to  sell  Curios  and  the  like,  or  who  came  aboard 
as  operatives,  were  ^Negroes,  or  Mulattos — called  Creoles;  the  Negroes 
like  ours;  the  Mulattos  generally  a feebler  looking  set  than  the  same 
class  with  us.  The  Negroes  found  their  way  here  from  Africa. 

We  steamed  all  day  due  South  over  the  Indian  Ocean,  bound  for 
the  Island  of  Boux’bon  or  Reunion.  Soon  we  drove  into  a heavy 
Tropic  shower ; which,  however,  lasted  bnt  a while.  The  clouds  then 
drifted  off,  and  the  Steamer  bravely  breasted  the  Trade  Winds  and 
Equatorial  current,  meeting  us  from  the  Southeast  strongly.  The 
Thermometer  on  Deck,  protected  from  the  wind,  stood  at  eighty- 
three,  but  the  stiff  breeze  drove  away  all  sense  of  heat,  and  to  sit  and 
enjoy  the  outlook  over  the  deep  Blue  water  was  delightful. 

On  Same  Ship  and  Ocean, 

Wednesday,  May  21,  1890. 

Our  Ship  is  old,  but  staunch  and  good.  She  has  numbered  a 
quarter  of  a century,  it  is  said,  the  most  venerable  of  her  fleet,  but  she 
is  evidently  solid  and  substantial,  and  fights  the  thugging  waves  with- 
out a tremor.  We  are  not  at  all  crowded  in  First  Class;  indeed, 
several  vacant  State-Rooms.  But  a different  rule  prevails  with  regard 
to  passengers  from  that  upon  the  Australien  and  Steamers  of  other 
Lines  on  which  I have  voyaged.  Here  the  Second  Class,  while  fed 


348 


LETTER  NO.  16. 


and  lodged  in  their  own  compartments  and  section  of  the  Vessel,  are 
allowed  to  use  and  occupy  the  Quarter-Deck  assigned  to  those  who 
have  paid  First  Class  fare.  This  makes  it  rather  crowded,  and  arouses 
feeling  among  some,  who  say  they  do  not  get  what  they  paid  for, 
whilst  others  get  much  more.  I do  not  feel  thus,  and  am  perfectly 
willing  to  enlarge  the  Deck  to  Uncle  Toby’s  world,  jjrovided  the  Fly 
is  not  obnoxious. 

One  of  these  Second  Class  1 met  to-day,  and  found  him  a gentle- 
man from  one  of  the  Comoro.  Islands — all  the  syllables  of  CbmSrb 
are  pronounced  short.  Pie  gave  me  an  interesting  account  of  them. 
They  are  a Group  of  four,  lying  between  Africa  and  Madagascar  at 
the  Northern  Entrance  of  the  Mozambique  Channel,  and  Southwest 
of  tlie  Seychelles  and  the  Amirantes.  They  ai’e  named  Great  Comoro 
or  Angadziza ; Little  Comoro  or  Mohilla;  Anjnan  or  Johanna;  and 
Mayotta.  The  French  bought  Mayotta  in  1841  from  a Chieftain, 
and  now  claim  a protectorate  over  all.  Great  Comoro  is  larger  than 
all  the  rest  of  them  together;  and  has  a Volcano,  eight  thousand  five 
hundred  feet  in  height,  but  not  a droj)  of  running  water.  Its  Inhabi- 
tants number  several  thousand,  who  are  dependent  solely  upon  water 
gathered  from  the  rains,  and  the  milk  of  the  Cocoanut.  Mohilla  is 
the  finest  of  the  Group,  and  has  a large  trade  with  Madagascar  and 
the  East  Coast  of  Africa,  containing  a population  of  six  or  seven 
thousand;  though  my  new  friend  says  that  all  save  the  Gi’eat  Comoro 
are  doing  well  in  the  cultivation  of  Sugar.  Its  people  are  nearly  all 
Maliomedans. 

The  stiff  current  and  breeze  confronted  us  all  day ; a little  too 
much  to  be  comfortable,  but  better  than  the  heat,  which  would  have 
prevailed  without  them,  for  the  Thermometer  continued  at  more  than 
eighty.  We  are  out  of  sight  of  Land,  and  no  Birds  are  in  the  air; 
the  Ocean  and  the  Sky  alone  environed  us,  but  all  oppressiveness  was 
dissipated  by  the  currents  which  came  from  both. 

On  Same  Ship  and  Ocean, 

Thursday,  May  22,  1890. 

Another  fine  clear  day,  Avith  weather  and  Sea  much  like  that  of 
yesterday  ; our  Ship  still  breasting  the  Equatorial  Avinds  and  waves, 
but  making  rapid  progress.  The  Captain  is  trying  to  catch  up  the 
time  lost  at  Mahe  in  waiting  for  us,  and  in  our  run  to  Reunion  will 


STEAMSHIP  RIO  ORANDE— INDIAN  OCEAN. 


349 


probably  make  a clay.  We  scored  upon  our  Log,  in  the  last  twenty- 
four  hours,  nearly  three  hundred  miles — good  speed  for  a Vessel  of 
our  size  and  build.  To  this  I have  no  objection ; around  us  is  nothing 
to  detain — only  bare  Sea  and  Sky. 

I had  much  talk  with  the  Second  Class  gentleman  already  referred 
to,  whose  name,  he  informed  me,  is  Sunley.  He  has  large  Sugar 
Plantations  on  two  of  the  Comoros,  succeeding  his  Father  in  their 
cultivation,  wdio  was,  also,  English  Consul  there  for  many  years ; he 
has  been  there  for  ten.  He  cultivates  them  with  Slave  Negroes  from 
East  Africa;  some  of  whom  he  owns,  some  he  hires ; in  number  about 
two  thousand.  They  are  euphoniously  called  Engages;  for  under 
French  as  under  English  Rule,  they  are  undergoing  Emancipation, 
and  by  the  System  in  five  years  they  will  all  be  free. 

We  had  much  conversation  of  a similar  character  with  those  I had 
with  Napoleon  Davis  at  his  Home  in  Cuba,  and  with  the  Count  de 
Nova  Friburga  in  Brazil,  on  my  First  and  Fifth  Tours,  and  of  the 
same  import.  These  conversations,  you  will  recall,  and  the  Letter  I 
received  from  Mr.  Davis  a short  time  ago,  confirming  our  anticipa- 
tions : Mr.  Sunley,  with  his  long  experience  and  that  of  his  Father, 
forecasts  the  same.  When  Emancipation  comes,  the  Plantations  wall 
go.  The  Negroes  are  very  low,  and  will  drift  back  to  Savagery  ; 
utterly  unable  to  take  care  of  themselves  under  Civilized  forms.  He 
emancipated  a few  years  ago  eighty  of  his  own,  every  one  of  whom 
ceased  work  and  became  worthless  vagabonds.  When  the  time  for 
their  freedom  comes,  the  time  will  have  also  come  for  the  surrender 
and  desertion  of  the  Estates,  and  their  lapse,  with  the  Negroes,  into 
waste  and  barbarism. 

Dr.  Abbott’s  views  with  regard  to  the  Negroes  is  the  same.  He 
has  been  travelling  for  several  years  in  Zanzibar,  in  the  region  of 
Kilimanjaro  and  beyond ; sometimes  with  Stephens,  who  rolled 
around  the  World  on  his  Bicycle,  sometimes  alone,  his  only  com- 
panions the  Natives,  who  are  Negroes.  He  wuis  born  and  educated 
in  Philadelphia,  with  an  instinctive  antipathy  to  Slavery,  but  without 
any  knowledge  whatever  of  the  Slaves,  thinking  those  wmre  correct 
who  talked  of  freeing  and  lifting  them  to  an  equality  with  the  w'hites. 
Since  he  has  seen  and  lived  with  the  Negroes,  and  knows  them,  he 
has  learned  what  wild  extravagance  the  wdiole  thing  is,  and  the  course 
of  the  Northern  people  in  effect  a monstrous  crime.  He  regards  them 
in  capacity  and  capabilities  but  little  above  the  Ape ; and  long  resi- 


350 


LETTER  NO.  16. 


dence  among  them,  instead  of  elevating,  minifies  his  opinion  both  of 
their  mental  and  moral  qualities,  and  their  ability  to  take  on  either 
thought  or  virtue. 

Fond  of  Natural  Science,  wandering  in  unknown  and  unexplored 
Regions,  he  is  full  of  their  fascination,  and  appreciates  how  travellers 
have  become  bewitched  with  the  inexhaustible  volume  of  their  mysteries 
and  are  unwilling  to  give  them  up.*  He  has  come  to  this  himself;  and  will, 
return  to  Africa  to  continue  his  explorations.  Leaving  the  unhealthi- 
ness of  the  Shore  Line,  he  says,  and  ascending  the  inner  high  plateaus 
of  Zanzibar,  he  comes  to  a Country  unsurpassed  in  healthfulness,  and 
crowded  with  interest  to  the  Naturalist.  From  his  enthusiasm,  I 
doubt  whether  he  will  ever  return  : charmed  with  the  freedom  of 
his  life,  like  Daniel  Boone,  will  simply  retire  before  the  advance  of 
Civilization  into  deeper  wilds,  should  there  be  any  wilds  left  upon 
the  bosom  of  the  Earth. 

Northeast  of  the  Comoros,  and  between  them  and  the  Amirantes, 
are  several  small  Islands — Aldebra,  Fauquhar,  Providence,  Cosmo 
Ledo,  and  others  of  not  much  importance.  Aldebra  is  the  habitat  of 
the  famous  Land  Tortoises,  of  which  I have  already  spoken,  and 
thence  imported  into  Mahe.  All  the  Islands  I have  named  are  North, 
Northwest,  and  Northeast  of  the  great  Madagascar,  and,  save  the 
Comoros,  are,  by  claim  of  England,  under  her  guardianship ; as  are, 
also,  the  Chagos  Archipelago,  a numerous  Group  in  mid-Indian 
Ocean,  due  East  of  the  Seychelles;  and  between  them  and  Mauritius, 
are  many  scattered  Islands,  called  Detached  and  Oil  Islands — the 
most  of  which  are  Coral,  and  their  products.  Turtles,  and  Cocoanuts, 
and  Oil — all  within  seven  hundred  miles  or  thereabouts,  and  Depend- 
encies of  the  British  Mauritian  Rule. 

On  Same  Ship  and  Ocean, 

And  at  Island  of  Bouebon, 

Friday,  May  23,  1890. 

Eaily  this  morning  we  saw  far  olf  the  lofty  Mountains  of  Bourbon 
or  Reunion.  The  Island  became  more  and  more  conspicuous  as  we 
advanced,  stretching  along  the  horizon  for  thirty-six  miles,  rising 
from  low  ground  at  either  end,  towards  the  centre  into  elevations  of 
from  seven  to  ten  thousand  feet,  with  a deep  cleft  torn  by  Volcanic 


STEAMSHIP  RIO  GRANDE— ISLAND  OF  BOURBON.  351 


action,  from  which  a gulch  or  chasm  reaches  to  the  Sea,  adding  much 
to  the  impressiveness  of  the  spectacle. 

Approaching,  we  could  see  large  areas  in  Sugar  Cane,  and  here 
and  there.  Mills,  and  the  habitations  of  the  Planters ; though  to  the 
distant  eye,  not  much  of  Forest.  Here  and  there,  other  gulches 
seamed  the  Mountain  sides,  which,  getting  closer,  were  clad  in  green. 
Scarce  any  level  land  appeared,  and  Bourbon  presented  from  the 
Steamer  the  front  and  outlines  of  a sure  enough  Mountain  Island. 

After  a while,  St.  Denis  came  in  sight  toward  the  Eastern  part  of 
the  Island  on  the  low  ground ; and  on  the  West  of  the  centre,  the 
Point  du  Galets — pronounced  Gallee — now  the  chief  Port  of  Bour- 
bon. It,  too,  is  on  the  low  ground,  behind  which  the  lofty  Mountains 
of  which  I have  spoken  rise.  A Bailroad  now  connects  the  two 
Ports  of  St.  Denis  and  Point  du  Galets,  fourteen  miles  in  length,  one 
half  of  which  runs  near  the  Shore  and  in  full  view,  the  other  by  a 
tunnel  cut  through  the  Mountains,  which  there  come  down  precipi- 
tously to  the  water.  This  Road  was  built  by  France  at  an  enormous 
cost,  and  I should  think  hardly  a good  investment.  She  has,  also, 
built  a Harbor,  cut  out  of  the  Lava,  at  an  expense  of  fifteen  millions 
of  dollars.  Into  it  our  Steamer  entered  by  careful  tolling,  and  by 
two  o’clock  we  were  securely  at  the  Landing — distant  from  Mahe, 
nine  hundred  and  eighty-five  miles. 

Most  of  the  laborers  who  appeared  to  load  and  unload  the  cargo 
were  Negroes;  there  were  some  Mulattoes  and  people  of  Indian  and 
Malayan  Type,  but  the  full-bred  Negro  was  the  sturdiest  of  them  all. 
There  were  some  Chinese ; but  they  did  not  seem  to  be  Cooleys,  rather 
gentlemen,  free  from  the  necessity  of  labor,  save  with  the  head ; that 
portion  of  John’s  anatomy  having  lifted  him  above  the  others. 

Whilst  the  Ship  was  thus  engaged,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Nead  and  Mr. 
Sunley  and  I walked  out  to  see  the  town.  It  was  dusty  with  pul- 
verized Lava,  for  there  Avere  no  pavements,  indeed,  hardly  streets, 
the  houses  scattered  about : those  of  the  better  classes  built  of  v'ood 
in  European  style;  of  the  lower,  simple  huts  of  frame  and  grass,  both 
roof  and  sides.  Dr.  Abbott  left  us  to  go  into  the  Interior,  and  hence, 
to  return  to  Africa — of  which,  as  I have  remarked,  the  strange,  though 
usual,  fascination  has  seized  him. 

This  Island  is  Volcanic,  one  of  which,  Piton  de  la  Fournaise,  is 
active,  but  gave  ns  no  exhibition  of  it  during  the  day.  Its  popula- 
tion is  more  than  two  hundred  thousand,  and  its  products,  Sugar, 


352 


LETTER  NO.  16. 


Coffee,  Cinnamon,  Nutmeg,  Cloves,  Cocoanuts,  and  Oil ; and  its  high 
ground  makes  it  healthy.  It  is  one  of  the  Mascarenas  Group  and 
belongs  to  France;  the  other  two,  Mauritius  and  Roderiguez — pro- 
nounced Roderiqs — belong  to  England.  They  are  in  the  neighbor- 
hood of  20°  South — the  same  or  thereabouts  that  the  Hawaiian 
Islands  and  Cuba  are  North  in  the  other  Hemisphere — and  about 
four  hundred  miles  East  of  Madagascar.  Roderiguez  is,  I think, 
about  five  hundred  Northeast  of  Mauritius ; much  smaller  than  that 
or  Bourbon,  but  regarded  as  salubrious  and  fertile. 

A good  many  of  our  passengers  left  us  here ; a few  took  their 
places.  We  steamed  and  warped  from  the  narrow  Harbor  near  Sun- 
set, which  behaved  itself  gorgeously  for  us,  and  outside,  on  the  calm 
Sea,  waited  for  the  Mails.  At  eight  o’clock  p.  m.  we  started  for 
Mauritius,  or  Isle  de  France,  distant  one  hundred  and  thirty-five 
miles.  We  steamed  Eastward  along  Bourbon’s  Coast,  passing  the 
Port  St.  Denis’  Lights,  sparkling  on  the  Shore,  and  behind  them  on 
the  Mountain  the  blaze  of  the  Volcano,  burning  like  a furnace — a 
brilliant  sight,  the  Stars  above  out  with  their  myriad  lamps,  and  the 
New  Moon,  in  the  opposite  Heavens,  with  her  upturned  Crescent, 
firey  red. 

George  Sand  has,  in  her  earliest  Novel,  Indiana,  given  an  admir- 
able description  of  this  beautiful  Island  of  Bourbon. 

On  the  Same  Ship  and  Ocean, 

And  at  the  Island  of  Mauritius, 

Universal  Hotel,  Curepipe, 

Saturday,  May  24,  1890. 

This  has  been  a day  full  of  interest  to  the  traveller.  At  daylight, 
Mauritius  was  in  sight;  a different  scene  altogether  from  that  of 
Bourbon.  There,  it  was  seemingly  a single  Mountain  rising  from 
the  Shore,  and  well-nigh  cleft  in  twain  by  fierce  Volcanic  forces; 
here,  it  was  numerous  Peaks  of  most  curious  and  striking  outline, 
between  which  Valleys  rested,  and  on  the  North  a level  plain  for 
miles  extending  to  the  Ocean,  blooming  with  luxuriant  Tropic  vege- 
tation. Like  Bourbon,  the  whole  Island  seemed  spread  before  us, 
and  both,  apparently,  by  coup  d’oeil,  showed  us  their  distinguishing 
characteristics.  They  are  of  nearly  the  same  size;  but  I do  not  think 
that,  from  the  Sea,  Bourbon  with  its  lofty,  bulky  elevation  is  at  all 


STEAMSHIP  RIO  GRANDE— PORT  LOUIS. 


353 


to  be  compared  to  Mauritius,  with  its  numerous  and  picturesque, 
though  less  lofty  Peaks. 

Conspicuous  among  them  from  the  Sea,  approaching  in  the  bright, 
early  morning,  were  Peter  Botte,  two  thousand  eight  hundred  feet  in 
height,  crowned  with  a sharp  cone-peak  of  naked  stone,  which,  in 
turn,  is  crowned  with  what  seems  to  be  a boulder,  though  I am  told 
it,  too,  is  part  of  the  living  Rock ; and  Mount  Pouce,  thus  called, 
because  it  is  like  the  thumb  of  the  elevated  hand,  pointing  upwards, 
about  the  same  height  with  Peter  Botte,  and  both  striking  objects 
amid  the  other  Mountains.  On  the  Shore  lies  Port  Louis,  the  chief 
Harbor  and  Capital  of  Mauritius,  much  hid  among  the  trees ; and 
numerous  Ships  of  Steam  and  Sail  anchored  well  in,  among  which 
we  cast  our  own. 

Soon  the  Surgeon  of  the  Port  was  aboard,  inquiring  of  our  health. 
Happily,  our  Surgeon  could  show  a clean  Bill,  and  we  were  passed  ; 
I say  happily,  because  a little  more  than  twenty  years  ago — 1867 — 
the  Cooleys  from  India  brought  some  disease  that  grew  into  a fright- 
ful Epidemic,  whicli,  attacking  high  and  low,  carried  off  thirty  or 
forty  thousand  people ; since  which  time,  the  Island  constantly  and 
scrupulously  quarantines,  upon  the  slightest  pretext.  Mr.  Sunley 
says,  he  has  been  here  before  three  times,  and  was  unfortunate  enough 
on  every  occasion  to  be  quarantined,  at  great  expense  and  incon- 
venience. Fortunately,  our  Surgeon  reported  us  a clean  and  healthy 
set.  No  sooner  had  we  come  to  Anchor,  than  many  row  boats  sped 
out  from  Shore,  seeking  custom.  They  were  nearly  all  manned — two 
to  each — by  Lascars  or  Sailors  from  India ; and  I saw  again  through 
the  lapse  of  time  since  I was  there,  the  clean-cut  phiz  of  the  Hindoo. 

We  engaged  two  boats  to  carry  us  and  our  traps  ashore;  our 
baggage  had  been  transferred  to  one  of  them,  and  we  wei’e  descend- 
ing the  Steamer  stairway  to  take  the  other,  when  we  wei’e  courteously 
and  kindly  invited  by  a gentleman  to  his  Steam  Launch,  saying  he 
would  cheerfully  transfer  us  to  the  Shore.  He  introduced  himself  as 
the  Harbor  Master  of  Port  Louis,  and  when  we  reached  the  Landing, 
informed  the  Customs  Officers  who  we  were.  I had,  in  addition,  a 
Letter  of  Introduction  to  a prominent  Merchant  of  the  town,  volun- 
tarily given  me  by  the  Chief  Agent  of  the  Messageries  Maritimes 
in  Sydney,  which  I presented  to  the  Customs  Officer  in  identification, 
and  our  baggage  was  forthwith  passed  without  examination.  We 
hired  a cart  to  transfer  it  to  the  Railway  Station,  a few  hundred 
23 


354 


LETTER  NO.  16. 


yards  off, — determining  not  to  stay  in  Port  Louis  during  the  few 
days  intervening  before  our  departure  for  Africa,  but  come  up  to 
this  higher  and  healthier  spot.  The  Station  Agent  sent  it  at  once  by 
a Train  then  going,  we  postponing  our  departure  till  a later,  thus 
getting  rid  of  our  impedimenta^  whilst  we  prospected  Port  Louis  and 
its  surroundings. 

We  hired  a Carriage  and  pair  from  an  Indian  Driver,  who  spoke 
good  English,  and  recommended  himself  to  me  by  his  striking  like- 
ness to  Bahna,  my  old  Hindoo  Guide  and  Servant,  both  in  smartness 
and  appearance.  The  Carriage  was  an  open  Victoria,  with  four  seats 
inside.  I made  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Nead  take  the  inside;  I took  mine 
by  the  Driver,  and  with  ray  umbrella  kept  off  the  Sun — which  during 
the  day  was  hot ; though,  shielded  from  its  rays,  the  air  was  balmy 
enough  under  the  motion  of  our  Carriage. 

Having  only  had  our  morning  Coffee,  we  drove  to  a Restaurant 
and  took  our  Breakfast,  to  fit  us  the  better  for  the  labors  of  the  day. 
Thinkiug  it  safer,  we  then  drove  to  the  Stearashij)  Office  of  the  Castle 
Line — otherwise,  Donald  Currie  Line,  after  Sir  Donald  Currie,  who 
founded  the  Company  and  now  controls  it — to  secure  onr  passage  to 
Africa.  It  is  called  the  Castle  Line,  from  the  fact  that  the  Ships  are 
named  after  the  Castles  of  Great  Britain  and  Ireland : thus,  the  one 
on  which  we  go  is  called  the  “ Dunrobiu  Castle  ; ” it  is  already  in  the 
Harbor,  having  arrived  a few  days  ago,  and  will  leave  for  D’Urban, 
the  chief  Port  of  Natal,  whither  we  are  next  bound,  on  the  coming 
Wednesday,  in  the  afternoon. 

Mr.  Frayser,  the  Chief  Agent,  received  us  very  courteously,  but 
informed  us  that  the  List  of  Passengers  was  full,  and  he  feared  he 
could  not  give  us  First  Class  State  Rooms — only  Second  Class ; but 
would  send  for  the  Captain  and  do  everything  in  his  power  to  fix  us 
comfortably,  aud  write  to  us  on  Monday  at  Curepipe,  whither  we  told 
him  we  were  going. 

AVe  then  continued  our  drive  to  Pamplemousses — pronounced  Pam- 
plemouss — where  are  located  the  famous  Gardens  of  Mauritius.  Mr. 
Frayser  courteously,  without  our  request,  gave  us  a Letter  of  Intro- 
duction to  Mr.  Scott,  the  Chief  Gardener,  who,  he  was  sure,  would 
make  our  visit  more  pleasant  and  profitable.  The  drive  was  one  of 
great  interest;  the  horses  admirable,  making  the  distance,  seven  miles, 
in  less  than  an  hour,  over  a broad,  well-graded,  aud  smooth  Maca- 
damized road,  bounded  on  either  side,  the  entire  distance,  by  dense 


ISLAND  OF  MAURITIUS— GARDENS. 


355 


Tropic  growths,  out  of  which  peeped  the  humble  cottages  of  the  lowly, 
or  thi’ough  which,  far  and  near,  opened  vistas  to  the  handsome  Villas 
of  the  rich.  These  things  made  the  ride  interesting  ; but  the  people 
which  thronged  this  Avenue  made  it  memorable,  rivalling  the  roads 
in  Java  in  the  crowds  which  frequented  it,  and  recalling  India  in 
the  type  of  its  population.  For  the  large  majority  of  the  inhabitants 
of  the  Island  are  Indians  from  Hindoostan,  and  driving  along  I had 
around  me  the  same  people  who  afforded  me  such  infinity  of  interest 
a few  years  ago,  in  their  own  wonderful  Country : the  same  thinly- 
clad,  and  keen-visaged,  regular-featured  Race  that  in  their  fateful 
story  have  written  so  much  of  the  World’s  noblest  and  saddest  His- 
tory, and  whose  fathers  were  our  own,  and  started  us,  too,  upon  our 
career,  from  their  beginning  on  the  Caspian  Sea.  Here  they  are,  just 
as  I saw  them  in  India — men,  women,  and  children — doing  fatefully 
their  allotted  work,  though  in  a foreign  land  : the  first  toiling  like 
their  ancestors  have  done  before  them  for  centuries ; the  last  two — 
their  ears,  and  nose,  and  ankles,  and  arms  burdened  with  trinkets  of 
silver  and  gold — impelled  by  the  same  ancestral  instincts. 

Besides  these,  there  were  a few  Negroes,  a few  Malays,  a few  of 
the  White  Nationalities  and  Creole  mixtures  and  John  Chinaman 
the  inevitable,  amid  such  a number  of  inferior  Races,  dominating — 
chiefly  occupying  shops  and  stores,  and  like  a spider  in  his  parlor, 
weaving  out  of  the  labor  of  all,  his  comfortable  web. 

When  we  reached  the  Gardens,  we  called  on  Mr.  Scott,  and  our 
Letter  from  Mr.  Frayser  opened  to  us.  He  is  a fine  young  Scotch- 
man, and  forthwith  gave  us  hearty  welcome,  and  went  with  us  through, 
showing  us  everything  of  interest.  We  spent  several  hours,  in  our 
ramble,  examining  the  curious  Tropic  growths — indigenous  and 
foreign : the  Ti’aveller’s  Tree,  from  Madagascar,  which  holds  water 
in  its  leaves,  not  as  sap,  as  sometimes  supposed,  but  simply  mechanic- 
ally, and  when  punctured  pours  it  out  beneficently  to  the  thirsty 
wayfarer  : our  Gardener  tested  it  with  success ; but  at  the  same  time 
he  told  us  its  name  had  more  of  romance  in  it  than  reality,  for  it  was 
not  a dry,  but  an  aquatic  Plant,  and  when  the  thirsty  traveller  came 
across  it,  he  found  water,  too.  The  Coco-de-Mer,  or  Double  Cocoa- 
nut  Tree,  which  has  enormous  leaves — when  in  perfection,  with  a 
spread  of  fourteen  by  twenty  feet — but  of  growth  exceeding  slow : 
some  he  had  were  more  than  thirty  years  of  age,  and,  apparently,  had 
hardly  begun  to  live ; this  Tree,  I have  already  told  you,  belongs 


356 


LETTER  NO.  16. 


to  the  Seychelles ; he  showed  us,  also,  the  Lace-leaf  Plant,  a water 
growth,  whose  leaves  resemble  Lace  in  delicacy  of  texture — a Mada- 
gascar growth ; he  gave  ns  some,  which  I will  send  or  carry  home ; 
the  Vegetable  Ivory,  another  species  of  the  Palm  Tree,  and  trees  and 
plants,  whose  names  alone  I cannot  stop  to  enumerate,  let  alone  describe 
their  properties. 

We  visited  in  the  Gardens  the  old  Mansion,  where  the  Governor 
lived  when  Mauritius  belonged  to  France,  and  where  in  1810  the 
treaty  was  signed,  ceding  it  to  England ; and  in  another  part  the 
Monument,  a simple  affair,  to  those  who  had  at  any  time  been  friends 
of  or  conferred  benefits  on  the  Island,  whose  names  are  thereon 
inscribed,  together  with  a quotation  from  Bernardine  de  St.  Pierre,  to 
the  effect,  that  he  who  had  thus  done  for  the  benefit  of  his  Race, 
had  built  a Monument  more  lasting  than  the  Pyramids.  Such  had 
St.  Pierre  himself  accomplished  for  Mauritius,  in  writing  the  simple 
story  of  Paul  and  Virginia,  the  scene  of  whose  famous  lines  he 
here  laid — whether  from  some  legend  or  the  fruit  of  his  own  imagi- 
nation, we  do  not  know.  This  we  know,  that  they  are  better  and 
will  be  longer  known  than  any  whose  name  has  been  or,  doubtless, 
will  ever  be  connected  with  Mauritius,  for  the  genius  of  the  Poet  has 
given  them  a local  habitation  and  enshrined  them  without  surcease 
in  the  hearts  of  living  men  and  women  everywhere,  however  shadowy 
their  own.  One  of  the  French  Governors  built  a Pedestal  of  Stone, 
stuccoed,  and  put  on  it  a plaster-figure  of  Flora  : the  figure  has  gone, 
and  only  the  Iron  Rod  which  sustained  it  is  standing  on  the  Pedestal. 
But  what  had  the  Goddess  Flora  to  do  here  in  the  presence  of  the 
Genius  which  enshrined  Paul  and  Virginia  in  the  hearts  of  all  the 
AForld?  Therefore,  the  Mauritians  resolved,  that  the  time-worn 
Pedestal  shall  represent  the  Tomb  of  Paul  and  Virginia,  and  have 
so  announced;  and,  therefore,  the  earnest,  honest  traveller  comes 
first  of  all,  when  in  the  Island,  to  this  most  venerated  of  its  objects 
and,  to  him,  sacred  spot,  and  sheds  a tear  over  the  scene  of  so  much 
love  and  steadfastness;  just  as  he  does  over  the  grave  of  Abelard 
and  Heloise  in  the  splendid  burial-place  of  Paris,  or  over  the  Grave 
and  Death-scene  of  Hamlet  and  Ophelia  at  Elsinore.  Thus  did  I, 
with  utmost  reverence,  to-day. 

To  relieve  us  of  the  burden  of  these  sad  thoughts,  our  friend,  the 
Gardener,  took  us  to  see  two  enormous  Land  Tortoises  brought  from 
the  Island  of  Aldebra.  I have  already  spoken  of  the  creatures  and 


ISLAND  OF  MAURITIUS— CUREPIPE. 


357 


the  monstrous  size  to  which  they  grow.  They  are  harmless  and 
without  teeth,  and  when  walking,  are  strikingly  like  an  Elephant  in 
their  legs  and  motion.  Some  years  ago  I saw  one  at  the  Smithsonian 
in  Washington,  but  much  smaller;  these  must  each  weigh  several 
hundred  pounds.  We  then  walked  with  our  friend  to  his  house  and 
took  some  I'efreshments,  and  then,  with  many  thanks  for  his  kind 
attention  and  with  invitations  to  visit  us  in  our  own  Country,  drove 
back  to  Port  Louis,  through  the  people  and  scenes  I have  hitherto 
described.  On  our  return,  we  passed  through  the  Barracks  and  Parade 
Ground  and  the  Streets  of  the  City,  and  then  to  the  Station,  arriving 
in  time  to  take  the  afternoon  train  to  this  place,  about  four  o’clock, 
distant  sixteen  miles  from  Port  Louis,  and  near  the  centre  of  the 
Island. 

Curepipe  is  pronounced  Curepeep,  and  is  said  to  be  derived  from 
the  fact,  that  in  the  old  days,  it  was  the  halting  or  resting  place  of 
pedestrians  across  the  Island,  being  half  way — where  they  cleaned 
out  and  replenished  their  pipes — which  is  expressed  in  the  compo- 
sition of  the  word — the  pronunciation  resulting  from  the  French 
vowel  sounds. 

The  Koad  is  a good  one,  broad  gauge,  and  the  cars  comfortable, 
of  English  and  Continental  Coach  construction.  It  ascends  by  easy 
gradients  to  the  elevation  here  of  eighteen  hundred  and  six  feet,  and 
hence  goes  on  to  Maheburg — pronounced  Mayburg — seated  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  Island.  Forest  Side,  one  mile  beyond  Curepipe, 
is  eighteen  hundred  and  twelve  feet,  the  highest  point  of  the  Road. 
The  Country,  like  that  on  the  Pamplemousses’  Road,  is  Tropical  in  the 
extreme,  passing  through  Sugar  Plantations,  which  are  from  the  high 
grounds  to  be  seen  stretching,  with  their  habitations  and  mills,  to 
the  Mountains  and  the  Sea  on  either  hand.  Now,  they  are  near  the 
Road,  now  far  off,  ways  leading  to  them  like  avenues,  through  thick 
Tropic  vegetation,  aglow  with  flowers.  The  splendid  Mountains,  too, 
we  see  on  either  hand,  stand  like  Sentinels  on  the  left,  some  already 
named  now  seen  in  the  reverse — Peter  Botte,  Pouce,  Trois  Mamelles, 
significant  in  their  names ; and  on  the  right.  Corps  du  Garde,  equally 
significant,  in  bold  and  defiant  outline.  Surely  Mauritius,  in  varied 
richness  and  beauty,  has  not  been  overdrawn,  and  will  rank  in  my 
memory  with  Java,  Ceylon,  and  the  Hawaiian  Islands,  in  brilliant 
Scenery. 


358 


LETTER  NO.  16. 


On  reaching  Cnrepipe  Station,  we  found  our  baggage  had  arrived 
safely,  and  taking  a Carriage  for  ourselves,  we  came  to  this  Hotel, 
half  a mile  off,  our  traps  coming  after  us,  borne  on  the  heads  of  five  or 
six  Indian  Cooleys,  reminding  me  again  of  my  Hindoostan  experi- 
ence. Soon,  we  were  comfortably  quartered  in  adjoining  Rooms. 

The  Sun  in  its  direct  rays  was  warm  ; when  he  disappeared  and 
when  night  came,  cool  air  came  with  it;  dew  began  to  gather  in 
volume,  and  dripped  from  the  roof  like  a shower,  and  I slept  com- 
fortably under  a heavy  blanket. 

The  Hotel  is  English  ; near  by,  is  a French  one.  Ours  is  full. 
The  guests  seem  to  be  all  English ; some  of  whom  will  go  on  the 
same  Steamer  with  ourselves.  But  I have  had  little  or  no  talk  with 
any  of  them. 

While  it  occurs  to  me,  I will  mention  that  Rupees  are  the  currency 
of  Mauritius,  as  of  India,  you  remember.  The  Rupee  is  divided  into 
one  hundred  cents ; at  par  it  is  equal  to  half  a Dollar.  It  is  now, 
however,  from  thirty  to  forty  cent  under  par. 

At  Same  Hotel,  Curepipe, 

Island  of  Mauritius, 

Sunday,  May  25,  1890. 

We  spent  the  day  quietly  at  Curepipe.  The  Hotel  is  in  highly 
improved  grounds,  and  Tropic  growths  abound.  I have  had  some 
talks  with  the  gentlemen  stopping  here ; but  none  worthy  specially 
of  record.  One  of  them  is  an  Officer  in  India,  now  on  his  return 
from  a visit  to  England.  With  the  usual  British  confidence,  he  spoke 
of  the  loyalty  of  the  Indians,  and  was  sure  England  had  nothing  to 
fear  from  them  in  case  of  a War  with  Russia.  I told  him  I did  not 
like  to  hear  such  views  expressed  by  English  Soldiers ; it  showed 
how  little  they  knew,  or  cared  to  know,  of  the  real  state  of  affairs, 
and  how  they  were  counting  without  their  host.  Lord  Ripon’s 
Administration  of  affairs  in  India  a few  years  ago,  showed  how  fal- 
lacious such  confidence  is ; and  how  India  longs  for  a Messiah  to 
deliver  them  from  England’s  Rule — beneficent  and  benignant  though 
it  be.  He  said  the  Educated  Indians,  of  whom  there  are  many  now, 
are  their  friends,  upon  whom  they  can  rely  in  time  of  trial.  I told 
them,  of  all  the  enemies  England  had  upon  the- earth,  the  Educated 
Indian  was  the  bitterest.  Entering  English  Schools  and  Colleges,  he 


CUREPIPE. 


359 


beat  the  English  boys  in  the  race  for  honors,  and  yet  was  a Social 
Pariah.  This,  with  such  an  Aristocratic  Pace,  was  gall  and  worm- 
wood ; and  they  only  wait  a day  of  vengeance  on  their  conquerors. 
To  this  he  could  make  no  answer,  and  none  can  be  made. 

In  the  afternoon  we  took  a walk  to  the  Public  Gardens,  viewing 
on  our  way  the  numerous  beautiful  Villas  which  throng  the  Country 
around  the  town  ; the  Garden  itself  is  very  pretty — of  course,  not  to 
be  compared  with  Pamplemousses,  which  deserves  to  rank  with  those 
of  Buitenzorg,  Kandy,  and  Calcutta.  On  our  return,  we  strolled 
through  the  thickly-settled  and  business  portion  of  the  place,  and 
saw  how  the  Indians  constituted  the  bulk  of  the  inhabitants,  as  already 
observed;  how  a good  many  Negroes,  too,  are  here,  dressed  out  to-day 
in  their  best  bib  and  tucker ; how  John  Chinaman  is  about,  also, 
especially  in  Shops,  and  gathering  loose  change, — looking  and  being, 
in  his  child-like  blandness,  the  sti’angest  individuality  of  them  all. 

Interested  thus  in  looking  at  the  Paces,  and  seeing  how  God  shuts 
them  up  in  their  respective  caskets,  beyond  the  power  of  Education 
to  radically  modify  in  Historic  periods,  and  hermetically  sealed  to 
fulfil  their  fates,  the  hours  sped,  and  by  the  time  we  reached  our 
Hotel,  night  had  fallen. 

Same  Place  and  Hotel, 

Monday,  May  26,  1890. 

This,  too,  has  been  a busy  and  interesting  day,  travelling  about 
Mauritius.  We  had  our  Breakfast  early,  and  by  half-past  eight  were 
at  the  Pailway  Station,  bound  for  Maheburg.  This  is  a continuation 
of  the  Line  across  the  Island  from  Port  Louis.  Maheburg  is  twenty 
miles  Southeast  from  Curepipe ; Curepipe  is  sixteen  still  Southeast 
from  Port  Louis,  and,  therefore,  is  not  far  from  the  centre  of  Mau- 
ritius. 

Our  Landlady  fixed  us  up  a Tiffin  Basket,  for  we  would  have  diffi- 
culty in  getting  meals  at  any  of  tlie  points  where  we  proposed  to  stop. 
The  Country  all  the  way  to  Maheburg  is  beautiful,  cultivated  on 
every  hand  in  Sugar  Cane,  now  at  various  stages  of  its  growtli,  and 
descending  Seaward,  the  prospect  was  very  fine,  with  the  cultivated 
fields  upon  the  North  sweeeping  to  the  Bamboo  Pange  of  Mountains, 
dotted  with  Villas,  Sugar  Mills,  and  the  humble  peaked-roofed  straw 
huts  of  the  Indian  laborers,  and  the  laborers  themselves,  with  their 
naked  limbs  or  bright-colored,  though  scant,  costumes,  scattered  over 


360 


LETTER  NO.  16. 


tlie  Landscape ; on  the  South  and  East  the  same  character  of  scene, 
but  bound  by  the  Ocean,  sweeping  in  deep  blue  far  away  into  the 
mist. 

When  we  came  to  Mahebiirg,  the  terminus  of  the  run,  we  walked 
out  from  the  Station  upon  the  Shore,  whence  we  could  see  the  inward 
reach  of  Grand  Port,  a handspme  Inlet,  but  shallowing  by  the  silt 
and  the  work  of  the  industrious  little  Coral  Insect.  Mauritius,  like 
many  other  Tropic  Islands,  though  they  may  be  of  Volcanic  build, 
is  girdled  by  Coral  Reefs,  which  forbid  approach  to  their  Shores. 
Port  Louis  and  Grand  Port,  on  opposite  sides,  are  the  only  Harbors 
Mauritius  can  boast,  and  they,  for  the  reason  I have  given,  not  first 
rate.  Grand  Port,  however,  has  some  Islands  scattered  about  it  which, 
together  with  fishing  boats  abroad  upon  its  surface  and  the  people 
with  line  and  tackle  on  the  Shore,  added  much  to  its  attractiveness. 

We  then  visited  the  town,  a short  distance  removed  from  the  Shore, 
and  enjoyed  walking  through  its  streets,  more  like  avenues  through 
Tropic  vegetation ; the  houses,  mainly  humble,  like  their  occupants, 
situated  in  capacious  yards  and  spread  over  magnificent  distances. 
We  came  across  the  Church,  a quite  large  Stone  affair',  and  the  Mar- 
ket Place,  Avhere  numbers  were  convened — the  Buyers  and  Sellers — 
nearly  all  Hindoos.  I was  somewhat  surprised  at  this,  thinking  John 
Chinaman  would  do  that  business  here  as  generally  elsewhere.  But 
no ! John  finds  here  feebler  Races,  as  he  finds  the  Malay  in  Java, 
and  strikes  for  higher  game ; and,  disdaining  to  be  a Cooley  or  have 
a Garden  Patch  and  hawk  Vegetables,  is  John  Chinaman,  Gentleman, 
the  Merchant  and  Financier.  Whilst  they  cling  to  their  costume  and 
Pigtail,  I have  not  seen  in  Mauritius  a single  Chinese  Laborer  or 
Trucker;  many  a time  have  I observed  John  walking,  with  his 
umbrella,  whilst  the  Indian  Cooley  bears  his  burdens  for  him.  I 
have  come  across  another  admirable  Country  in  Avhich  to  study  the 
peculiarities  of  Race.  I have  seen  some,  not  very  many,  Negroes ; 
they  do  not  appear  to  be  Cooleys,  nor  Hucksters,  nor  Merchants, 
nor  Truckers,  but  rather  engaged  in  some  rough  trade;  and  in 
physique  are  the  healthiest,  apparently,  and  strongest  of  them  all. 

By  the  time  we  had  prospected  Maheburg,  the  Train  was  ready  to 
return.  We  came  back  to  Rosebelle,  a junction,  and  there  took  Train 
on  a branch  Road  Southwest  to  Souillac,  eleven  miles.  This,  too,  is 
seated  upon  the  Shore,  but  has  no  Harbor.  The  whole  Ride  was 
through  Sugar  Cane,  descending  to  Rosebelle  and  descending  thence 


SQUILL  AC. 


361 


to  Souillac,  was  ever  bounded  on  the  South  and  West  by  the  distant 
Ocean — a charming  scene  of  land  and  water.  When  we  arrived  at 
Souillac  we  took  our  basket,  and  leaving  the  Station,  were  walking  to 
the  Shore  to  there  enjoy  our  lunch,  when  we  Avere  politely  saluted 
by  the  Station  Master  and  directed  how  we  Avould  reach  the  best 
place  for  our  jiicnic.  Soon  we  were  overtaken  by  a gentleman,  who 
said  he  would  with  pleasure  conduct  us,  and  introduced  himself  as 
the  Government  Superintendent  of  Forests  on  the  Island.  When  we 
reached  the  spot,  a splendid  scene  opened  upon  us.  We  were  on  the 
skirts  of  a Grove,  which  on  high  ground  extended  by  steep  incline  to 
the  water’s  edge,  thick -set  and  streAvn  with  Volcanic  rocks,  fixed  and 
loose,  over  which  the  water  lapped  lazily ; beyond,  a half  a mile  or 
more,  a Coral  Reef  SAv^ept  round  the  Coast,  oA^er  which  the  waAms 
rolled  in  crests,  white  like  snow.  Strange  to  say,  the  water  beyond 
was  of  deepest  blue,  and  of  mirror  smoothness.  When  stirred  by  the 
winds,  our  forest  friend  says,  they  vault  like  Racers  over  the  Reefs, 
with  magnificence  indescribable. 

He  was  so  kind  and  polite,  we  invited  him  to  lunch  with  us, 
which  he  accepted,  and  we  made  our  board  on  the  thick  grass  under 
the  shade  of  the  trees,  and  in  sight  and  hearing  of  the  jubilant,  many- 
tongued  Ocean,  and  discoursed  about  Mauritius  and  her  interests  and 
destiny.  He  was  born  here,  his  father  a Welshman  and  his  mother  a 
French  woman.  He  says  the  Private  Forests  are  pretty  much  all 
gone;  those  that  survive  are  mainly  Public,  and  are  preserved,  situated 
in  the  East  and  Southeast  of  the  Island,  in  the  districts  of  Flacq,  Mahe- 
burg,  and  SaA^anne,  where  we  then  Avere.  But  none  of  them  now  of 
much  import ; though  already  about  forty  thousand  Eucalyptus  trees 
have  been  planted  and  the  Forest  are  carefully  looked  after  and  ex- 
tended. 

We  spent  nearly  tAvo  hours  thus  pleasantly,  by  Avhich  time  the 
Train  was  ready  to  return.  Our  ride  was  delightful,  like  the  one  of 
the  morning,  though  simply  the  scene  reversed.  I observed  that  some 
of  the  Planters  had  Steam  Trams  to  bring  in  the  Cane  from  the  fields 
to  the  Mill ; others  used  oxen  of  the  Indian  Bullock  species,  with 
their  shoulder  hump.  The  homes  of  the  Planters  were  some  of  them 
singularly  pretty,  set  in  their  rich  and  many-colored  Tropic  plants 
and  floAvers.  The  huts  of  the  Laborers  w’ere  almost  invariably  of 
straAv,  and  one  style,  .square  or  rectangular  frame,  about  five  feet  in 


362 


LETTER  NO.  16. 


height,  suiTouuded  by  a steep  conical  roof,  the  whole  of  straw  or  long 
gi’ass,  well  woven  and  matted. 

Poet  Louis,  Maueitius, 

Oeiental  Hotel, 

Tuesday,  May  27,  1890. 

We  left  Curepipe  on  the  half-past  eight  morning  Train  for  this 
City.  Having  seen  whatever  of  interest  the  region  of  Curepipe  and 
beyond  contained,  we  determined  to  run  back  to  Port  Louis  and 
thence  ai’ound  the  North  of  the  Island  by  Rail,  which  would  have 
given  us  a view  of  pretty  much  its  whole  extent  •,  for,  from  the  high 
ground,  we  could,  in  our  progress,  see  nearly  the  whole  area  on  either 
hand  around  the  entire  Coast  Line.  Mauritius  is  about  the  size  of 
Bourbon — maybe  not  quite  so  large — say  thirty  miles  East  and  West 
by  forty  North  and  South.  The  Train  was  full — four  or  five  cars — 
the  business  men  of  the  City  have  their  homes  on  the  high  grounds, 
or  board,  and  go  and  come  daily. 

I have  already  told  you  of  my  ride  up;  I will  not  repeat  the  return. 
When  we  arrived  in  Port  Louis,  we  found  we  could  not  make  the 
excursion  we  proposed,  the  Time  Table  had  been  changed  from  the 
one  we  saw  in  Curepipe,  and  upon  which  we  had  based  our  plans. 
Our  Landlady’s  nephew  came  with  us  and  brought  us  to  this  Hotel, 
a branch  of  the  one  in  Curepipe,  a plain  affair,  but  will  answer  for 
onr  short  stay.  My  Room,  however,  opens  upon  the  Harbor,  now 
quite  full  of  Shij)s  of  sail  and  steam,  and  the  Esplanade  surrounding 
it,  fronting  which  are  the  Post  Office  and  Custom  House  and  other 
Public  Buildings,  and  when  I lift  my  eyes  from  the  paper  whilst  I 
write,  a motley  crowd  of  many  colors  and  nationalities  greet  them — 
all  the  while  a pleasant  breeze  coming  in  from  the  water  and  temper- 
ing the  Sun,  which  will  not,  under  his  direct  rays,  let  these  lands 
forget  his  Sovereignty,  though  far  away  now  on  his  tour  beyond  the 
Line. 

Getting  our  Rooms  and  Luggage  secured,  Mr.  Nead  and  I walked 
to  the  Steamer  Office  to  inquire  about  our  State  Rooms  and  the  hour 
of  her  departure.  Mr.  Erayser  was  cordial  and  polite  as  usual,  and 
introduced  us  to  the  Captain  of  the  Dunrobin  Castle.  The  Captain 
invited  us  to  visit  the  Steamer,  and  he  would  show  us  our  Rooms ; 
which  we  agreed  to  do.  The  freight  is  not  yet  all  aboard,  and  the 


PORT  LOUIS. 


363 


Agent  said  he  would  let  us  know  during  the  day,  whether  or  not  she 
could  start  to-morrow.  It  was  mid-day,  and  too  hot  in  the  sun  to 
walk  the  streets,  and  we  returned  to  the  Hotel. 

In  the  afternoon,  we  took  a Row  Boat  at  the  Landing,  in  front  of 
the  Hotel,  with  two  Oarsmen,  and  went  to  the  Steamer,  anchored 
from  half  to  a mile  out,  and  were  received  courteously  by  the  Cap- 
tain and  Steward,  and  showed  our  quarters.  Unhappily,  the  Vessel 
will  be  full,  and  I will  not  be  able  to  have  a Cabin  to  myself ; nor 
can  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Nead  have  a choice  one.  But  I feel  quite  sure  the 
Captain  will  do  for  us  the  best  he  can. 

On  our  return,  we  received  a note  from  Mr.  Frayser,  the  Agent, 
informing  us  that  the  Steamer  would  not  leave  for  a day  longer — 
Thursday,  at  four  o’clock  p.  m.  We  can  to-morrow,  therefore,  make 
our  proposed  Excursion  on  the  Rail,  and  probably  we  will. 

On  our  walk  to-day  we  visited  the  Museum,  not  far  from  the 
Steamer’s  Office.  It  is  quite  an  imposing  white  plastered  building  : 
but  its  contents  are  very  poor,  consisting  mainly  of  preserved  and 
stuffed  animals  and  birds,  either  badly  prepared  or  carelessly  pre- 
served— maybe  with  the  latter  the  climate  has  much  to  do — a rather 
sorry  crowd  anyway,  though  numerous  enough. 

Same  Place  and  Hotel, 

Wednesday,  May  28,  1890. 

Eight  or  nine  hours  sleep  last  night  made  me  feel  comfortable  this 
morning,  and  ready  for  a day’s  work.  We  fulfilled  our  purpose,  to 
make  the  tour  of  the  North  and  Northeast  part  of  the  Island  by  Rail. 
We  Breakfasted,  and  at  half-past  ten  took  train  for  a small  place 
called  Flacq,  twenty-two  miles  distant. 

The  Road  passes  through  the  Pamplemousses  District,  not  far  from 
the  Gardens,  and  mainly  in  view  of  the  Sea,  and  upon  the  low  ground 
which  we  noticed  when  coming  into  Port  on  our  arrival.  I observe, 
that  before  reaching  the  terminus  of  our  run,  at  a jilace  called  Mapou, 
the  elevation  is  two  hundred  and  ninety-six  feet ; we  then  descend  to 
Flacq  seventy-eight.  The  scene  was  much  like  that  spoken  of  in 
other  parts  of  the  Island,  cultivated  extensively  and  minutely,  chiefly 
in  Sugar — the  humble  habitations  of  the  Laborers  and  the  Sugar 
Mills  abounding — the  Landscape  sweeping  to  the  Mountains,  with 


364 


LETTER  NO.  16. 


Avhich  we  are  now  familiar — Ponce  and  Peter  Botte  showing  grandly, 
with  different  fronts  from  those  already  seen. 

On  reaching  the  Flacq  Station,  we  hired  two  Carrioles,  thus  called 
here,  square  bodies,  covered,  with  shafts,  very  confined,  but  not  un- 
comfortable affairs,  Avith  stout,  fine,  active  ponies,  and  well  kept. 
Mrs.  Nead  and  I took  one,  and  Mr,  Nead  the  other.  There  being 
nothing  at  the  Station  to  see,  we  drove  over  a fine  road  to  the  Sea- 
shore, a mile  distant,  and  there  spent  our  time — an  hour  or  two — as 
we  did  at  Souillac,  in  enjoying  the  Ocean  and  its  breezes.  For  the 
purpose,  the  site  is  not  equal  to  that ; the  Coral  Beefs  being  more 
distant,  yet  most  enjoyable,  for  they  stretched  their  white  line  of  foam 
along  the  entire  front,  with  here  and  there  an  opening,  through  which 
small  crafts  alone  can  safely  sail,  and  which  in  the  distance,  it  was 
beautiful  to  see,  their  white  wings  and  the  surf  about  them  contrasting 
finely  with  the  deep  blue  water. 

Eeturning,  we  observed  a Public  School  of  boys  and  girls,  and 
went  in  to  see.  It  happened  to  be  the  hour  of  recess,  and  in  the 
School  Room  Ave  met  the  teachers,  a good-looking  young  man  and 
Avoman,  neatly  dressed,  and  both  of  Indian  descent.  They  received 
us  Avith  great  courtesy,  speaking  English,  and  a number  of  the  boys 
and  girls  gathered  around,  while  we  were  talking.  There  was  a 
large  Map  of  the  World  upon  the  Avail.  I took  the  pointing  stick 
and  showed  them  Avhere  I lived,  and  how  I had  travelled  to  reach 
their  Island  home,  and  the  various  Countries  I had  visited,  and  hoAV 
by  keeping  straight  on  around  Africa  to  England,  I would  thence 
again  reach  the  City  whence  I started.  It  was  admirable  to  see  the 
little  black-haired,  bright-eyed  things,  all  cleanly  clad  and  Avell- 
behaved,  folloAV  me  Avith  intensest  interest.  My  first  effort  at  child 
school  teaching  seemed  to  be  a success  ; and,  doubtless,  they  will  find 
a topic  of  talk  for  many  a day  about  the  strange  gentleman  who  was 
at  the  School  and  told  them  how  he  was  travelling  around  the  World, 
and  showed  them  on  the  Map. 

AFe  met  in  our  compartment  an  English  gentleman,  Avho  is  a 
Justice  of  the  Peace  and  Colonial  Secretary  of  the  Island,  an  intelli- 
gent, affable  man,  who  gave  us  much  information  about  the  Country 
and  people.  The  planters  cultivate  carefully,  using  maniu’e  and 
artificial  fertilizers,  quantities  of  which  Ave  observed  upon  the  Shore, 
landed  from  the  small  vessels  of  Avhich  I have  spoken,  and  hauling 
it  out  with  carts  and  wagons  draAvn  by  bullocks  and  mules.  Again 


ISLAND  OF  MAURITIUS. 


365 


were  we  impressed  with  the  density  of  the  population — reaching  five 
hundred  and  eight  per  square  mile, — more  than  that  of  England  or 
even  Belgium.  Our  informant  said,  that  altogether  the  best  laborers 
are  the  Indians ; the  Negroes  loving  rest  more  than  work,  and  unre- 
liable— though  in  physique,  they  are  manifestly  the  best  men  here. 
John  Chinaman  works  with  head  more  than  hand  : the  former  devis- 
ing modes  to  get  the  use  of  the  latter,  rather  of  others  than  his  own. 
The  Island  is  very  unhealthy,  resulting,  in  great  measure,  from  the 
want  of  drainage  and  the  want  of  sanitary  precautions,  and  every  now 
and  then  fevers,  which  to  some  extent  ever  abound,  break  out  in 
epidemic  form  and  sweep  oft'  thousands.  Even  now,  in  their  Winter 
time,  there  is  much  fever  in  the  City,  and  I will  be  ready  to  go  with 
the  Steamer : not  tired  of  the  Island,  only  afraid  of  its  scourge.  Thus 
Nature  seems  to  work,  with  compensation.  This  lovely  garden  of 
the  Tropics  has  its  bane.  For  wherever  I go,  the  Landscape  charms 
with  its  fertile  plains  and  picturesque  Mountain  peaks,  of  beauty  and 
outline  beyond  the  Painter’s  brush — rimmed  by  the  Coral-crested 
waters,  rivalling  in  enchantment  what  Homer  tells  us  of  Achilles’ 
shield,  all  girdled  by  the  Sea. 

Towards  Sundown  we  wandered  about  the  Streets,  and  visited  the 
Markets,  and  were  struck  by  the  quantity  and  variety  of  the  products 
oftered  for  sale ; especially  of  the  Fish,  some  of  them  more  curious 
in  their  appearance  than  appetizing. 

I make  a rough  draft  of  the  Island  and  of  the  Lines  by  Rail,  that 
you  may  understand  the  better  my  story : 


wAHceura 


366 


LETTER  NO.  16. 


Same  Place  and  Hotel, 

Steamship  Duneobin  Castle,  Donald  Cueeie  Line, 

Thursday,  May  29,  1890. 

In  the  early  morning,  I was  out  on  the  Verandah  of  the  Hotel,  in 
front  of  my  Room,  enjoying  the  crowds  of  variegated  people  on  the 
Streets  and  Landings  and  the  breezes  from  the  Sea.  These  breezes, 
of  which  I have  several  times  spoken,  though  so  delicious,  are  called 
the  Madagascar  winds,  and  regarded  unhealthy  for  the  town — not  that 
the  winds  themselves  are  noxious,  but  striking  the  Mountains  which 
encircle  the  City,  come  down  often  in  sultry  rains,  bringing  the  impure 
exhalations  with  them,  and  generating  fevers  of  malignant  type.  It  is 
unfortunate  that  such  fates  should  wait  upon  the  lovely  Island,  and 
with  its  mixed  population,  things  are  growing  rather  worse  than  better. 
The  mortality  of  the  City  proper  averages  eighty-eight  per  thousand, 
and  at  points  near  by,  two  hundred  and  seventeen — a fearful  death 
rate — making  Graveyards  numerous  and  crowding  their  occupants. 

I amused  myself  after  Breakfast  in  walking  about  the  Streets  and 
Public  Grounds,  keeping  in  the  shade  of  the  houses  and  trees,  or  under 
my  umbrella,  to  avoid  the  Sun’s  torrid  rays.  These  Public  Grounds 
reach  from  the  Harbor  front,  well  set  in  fine  Tropic  trees,  back  to  the 
Government  House,  an  imposing  structure;  several  Bronze  Statues 
adorn  it,  by  D’Epiuay,  a Native  Artist ; one,  of  his  own  Father,  an 
eminent  Lawyer  and  benefactor  of  the  Island,  in  the  act  of  arguing 
a cause — an  excellent  work  of  Art.  Whilst  out,  I bought  a Spoon 
for  your  Set,  and  had  it  marked  in  memory  of  my  visit. 

At  one  o’clock,  we  gathered  some  Cooleys,  and  had  our  baggage 
transferred  to  boats,  and  soon  wei’e  safely  transferred  to  the  Steamer 
Dunrobin  Castle  and  quartered  in  our  Rooms.  We  arrived  in  time 
for  Lunch. 

My  State  Room  is  one  of  the  largest  in  the  Steamer,  on  the  upper 
Deck,  with  berths  for  four.  Happily,  I have  only  one  Room-mate, 
young  Dr.  Hamilton,  a Siu’geon  in  the  British  Army,  who  has  been 
stationed  for  six  or  seven  years  in  Mauritius,  now  on  his  way  to 
England,  in  charge  of  some  invalid  soldiers,  he  himself  suffering 
from  the  effects  of  fever,  and  going  home  in  search  of  health,  appar- 
ently a nice  young  man.  We  are  in  hope  that  we  will  be  able  to 
hold  it  to  Natal,  the  terminus  of  our  travel  on  this  Steamer : but 
with  an  apprehension,  that  the  number  of  new  passengers  who  will 
board  us  in  Madagascar  will  crowd  our  little  domicil. 


ISLAND  OF  MA  URITIUS—ST0R3IS. 


367 


In  the  afternoon,  whilst  my  fellow-travellers  were  coming  aboard, 
and  the  Steamer  getting  ready  for  her  departure,  I sat  on  Deck  under 
the  awning,  and  enjoyed  the  delightful  breezes  and  the  scene.  The 
Harbor  was  filled  with  Ships  of  sail  and  steam,  and  Steam  Tugs 
and  Launches  and  row  boats  scudding  to  and  fro ; and  beyond,  lay 
the  City  along  the  Shore,  hid  away  in  foliage,  whilst  the  high 
Mountains  rimmed  it  round,  catching  the  pure  airs  Avhich  we  were 
enjoying,  and  at  times,  as  I have  said,  pouring  them  like  pestilential 
breaths  upon  the  people  of  the  crowded  City.  One  could  hardly 
realize  that  sixty  thousand  peoj^le  were  there  hid  away,  and  that 
nearly  four  hundred  thousand  lived  upon  the  little  Island.  Jlor 
could  one  readily  realize  that  this  placid  scene  could  be  disturbed  by 
fiercest  elements  of  Pestilence  and  Storm.  I have  told  you  of  the 
epidemics  and  their  ravages;  sometimes  Hurricanes  come  along,  and 
one  on  the  Fourth  of  March,  1868,  sent  the  Vessels  in  wreck  upon 
the  Shore,  and  made  fifty  thousand  people  homeless.  We  remember 
from  our  childhood  days,  how  Bernardine  de  Saint-Pierre,  having 
won  our  admiration  and  enthusiasm  for  the  lovely  children  of  his 
Genius,  and  their  equally  lovely  home,  swept  one  away  with  the 
fierce  Hurricane,  and  blasted  the  other  with  its  effects. 

[Just  two  years  after  I was  there.  May  1892,  the  Island  of  Mau- 
ritius was  overwhelmed  by  one  of  the  most  memorable  of  these 
storms.  To  give  some  idea  of  its  violence  and  the  ruin  it  inflicted, 
I here  insert  a couple  of  slips  from  the  Papers  of  the  Day,  giving  a 
graphic  account  of  its  doings  : 

“A  TERRIBLE  STORM. 


Twelve  Hundked  Lives  Lost  on  the  Mauritius  Island. 


THE  WIND  BLEW  120  MILES  AN  HOUR. 


A Hurricane  Causes  Enormous  Damage  to  Proimiy  and  Shipping — 
Vessels  Bloion  Dry  on  Shore — Human  Beings  Dashed 
to  Death  Against  Trees  and  Walls. 

London,  May  20. — Advices  from  Mauritius  are  to  the  effect  that 
the  devastation  caused  by  the  recent  Hurricane  was  simply  enormous. 


368 


LETTER  NO.  16. 


Business  at  Port  Louis,  the  Capital,  and  at  the  other  towns  on  the 
Island  has  been  and  is  still  greatly  interrupted. 

Some  time  before  the  gale  burst,  the  barometer  gave  warning  of  a 
great  atmospheric  disturbance.  The  merciuy  fell  in  one  hour  to  27.95, 
and  in  a short  time  the  Sky  took  on  a dull  reddish  tinge,  and  every 
indication  pointed  to  the  coming  of  the  storm.  The  air  was  motion- 
less, and  the  heat  was  oppressive,  almost  stifling.  Swiftly  coursing 
landward  there  came  a solid  mass  of  water,  looking  like  a wall  of 
green.  As  its  top  was  a mass  of  froth,  which,  lighter  than  the  water, 
was  lifted  by  the  gale  that  was  following  close  behind  and  blown  far 
in  advance  of  the  onrushing  Sea.  Quicker  than  the  story  can  be 
written,  the  forerunners  of  the  gale  reached  the  Island.  First,  a 
little  puff  of  wind  waved  the  foliage  of  the  trees.  This  was  quickly 
followed  by  another  and  another,  and  then  the  storm  burst.  Amid 
the  roar  of  the  gale  could  be  heard  the  crashing  of  thunder,  that  was 
appalling  in  its  violence.  The  whole  black  canopy  would  give  way 
to  a flash  of  lightning  that  would  light  the  Sea,  Sky,  and  Earth  with 
brightness  that  almost  caused  blindness.  The  people  were  panic- 
stricken,  and  sought  safety  iu  their  houses,  many  of  them  only  to  find 
death  shortly  afterward  iu  the  falling  buildings. 

VELOCITY  OF  THE  WIND,  120  MILES  AN  HOUR. 

The  wind  gauges  were  blown  to  atoms,  but  those  best  calulated  to 
judge,  state  that  the  wind  blew  at  the  rate  of  120  miles  an  hour.  No 
one  but  those  who  have  seen  such  storms  can  form  any  idea  of  the 
terrible  energy  of  such  a wind.  It  was  utterly  impossible  for  a 
human  being  to  stand  against  it.  Many  of  those  who  lost  their  lives 
were  killed  by  being  lifted  bodily  from  their  feet  and  dashed  against 
trees,  walls,  and  houses. 

TWELVE  HUNDRED  PERSONS  KILLED. 

The  latest  official  estimates  are,  that  1,200  were  killed.  It  is 
thought  that  many  of  those  injured  will  die. 

Most  of  the  lighters  and  tugs  in  the  Harbor  were  blown  high  and 
dry  on  the  Shore,  and  the  scarcity  of  these  vessels  is  a great  draw- 
back to  business.  The  stranding  of  the  lighters  and  tugs  also  caused 
a great  delay  in  floating  the  stranded  sea-going  vessels,  it  being  im- 
possible to  lighten  them. 


ISLAND  OF  MAURITIUS— STORMS. 


369 


DAMAGE  TO  SHIPPING. 

The  British  Ship  Queen  of  Scots,  whose  stranding  was  reported 
yesterday,  lost  her  bulwarks  and  part  of  her  rigging.  The  British 
Steamer  Oaklands,  from  Bari'y,  which  was  also  reported  aground, 
has  been  floated.  Her  rigging  and  bulwarks  are  damaged.  Several 
of  the  plates  on  her  port  side  are  bent  in,  but  she  is  water-tight.  A 
survey  has  been  held,  and  she  will  go  in  dock  for  a further  exam- 
ination. 

The  Austrian  bark  Nemirna,  from  Colombo,  had  her  sails  blown 
away.  Her  cargo  Avas  shifted,  and  after  spare  sails  were  rigged  to 
the  yards,  she  bore  away  for  Mauritius  to  repair. 

The  Beacon-Light  Ship  was  dismasted,  and  the  light  was  lost. 

The  Government  Tug  Stella  Clairs  is  ashore,  but  she  will  prob- 
ably float. 

The  British  barks  Aconcagua  and  Genevieve  M.  Tucker,  the  former 
from  New  York  and  the  latter  from  Newcastle,  N.  S.  W.,  are  ashore, 
hard  and  fast.  There  is  but  a faint  }>rospect  of  floating  either  of 
them.  They  are  lying  in  four  feet  of  water.  They  are  partly  laden  ; 
neither  is  making  any  water. 

The  British  bark  Strathspey,  from  Port  Natal,  will  probably  be 
gotten  afloat. 

The  Swedish  bark  St.  Vincent,  from  Rangoon  for  the  English 
Channel,  has  arrived  at  Mauritius  in  a leaky  condition.  She  will 
make  repairs  afloat. 

The  Austrian  bark  Teresa  Cosulich  is  stranded,  but  will  float. 
Her  hull  is  damaged,  and  several  of  her  plates  ax’e  bent.  She  was 
in  collision  with  the  wharf  and  the  dry  dock. 

The  British  Steamer  Umballa,  from  Bombay  and  Zanzibar,  which 
was  also  blown  ashore,  partly  discharged  her  cargo  and  got  afloat. 
Her  cargo  has  been  restowed.  Her  upper  works  were  damaged. 

The  British  Ship  Vellore,  from  Balasore  and  Colombo,  and  the 
Normandy  went  ashore,  but  were  floated  in  a slightly  damaged  con- 
dition. 

The  British  bark  Oaklands,  from  Buenos  Ayres,  had  her  port 
quarter  stove  in  a collision. 

The  British  Ship  Queen  of  Scots  had  1,200  tons  of  inward  cargo 
aboard  when  she  was  carried  on  the  reef  She  is  now  discharging  as 
rapidly  as  possible.  She  lies  in  seven  feet  of  water. 

24 


370 


LETTER  NO.  16. 


The  British  brig  Rio  Logo,  from  Fremantle,  had  her  bulwarks, 
stanchions,  and  stern  damaged. 

The  British  Ship  Sierra  Parima,  from  Penarth,  has  her  bulwarks 
damaged.  She  is  tight  and  will  probably  float. 

The  British  bark  William  Wilson  has  been  floated.  Her  ballast 
tank  is  leaky  and  her  spars  are  damaged. 

The  British  Steamer  Amaranth  is  still  ashore,  but  she  will  prob- 
ably float. 

Among  the  Steamers  in  Port  Louis  Harbor  was  the  Albion,  a 
British  vessel  from  Bombay.  She  had  steam  up  when  the  hurricane 
burst,  and  attempted  to  ride  to  her  anchors  with  the  assistance  of  her 
engines.  The  gale  blew  with  such  frightful  violence  that  even  with 
the  aid  of  steam  the  situation  became  extremely  dangerous  from  the 
pitching  of  the  Steamer  that  threatened  at  every  moment  to  break 
her  chains.  The  cables  were,  therefore,  buoyed  and  slipped,  and  the 
Steamer  was  headed  for  the  open  Sea.  As  she  started  on  her  perilous 
voyage  she  made  dangerous  leeway,  but  finally  she  cleared  the  reefs 
and  rode  in  open  water.  She  disappeared  in  the  storm,  and  no  more 
was  seen  of  her  until  she  returned  after  the  gale  had  subsided.  She 
had  had  a terrible  experience,  but  she  had  ridden  out  the  storm  with 
no  further  damage  than  the  loss  of  her  mainmast. 

The  French  bark  Alsace  and  Lorraine,  from  Calcutta,  is  a total 
wreck.  She  was  bound  for  Demerara. 

The  British  Steamer  Gladiator  will  probably  float.  Several  of  her 
plates  are  bent  and  her  frame  is  broken.” 


“Mauritius  Island  Storm-swept. 

A Cablegram  from  London  last  night  says  : Advices  received  here 
from  Mauritius  state  that  a Hurricane  unprecedented  in  its  violence 
passed  over  that  Island  on  April  29,  causing  enormous  damage  to 
shipping.  A majority  of  the  vessels  at  the  Island  were  blown  ashore. 
The  Western  half  of  Port  Louis,  the  Capital,  was  devastated. 

The  loss  of  life  was  appalling.  A large  number  of  persons  were 
caught  in  the  falling  houses  and  crushed  to  death,  while  others  lost 
their  lives  by  being  struck  by  falling  debris.  Never  before  in  the 
history  of  the  Island  has  such  a warring  of  the  elements  been  known. 


ISLAND  OF  MA  URITIUS— STORMS. 


371 


The  exact  number  of  the  dead  is  not  known.  Every  effort  is  being 
made  by  the  authorities  to  alleviate  the  suffering.  The  Governor 
has  issued  orders  for  military  tents  to  be  distributed  to  shelter  the 
homeless,  and  food  is  being  issued  to  those  who  have  lost  everything 
by  the  storm. 

Half  of  the  crops  of  Sugar,  Rice,  Coffee,  and  Pepper  have  been 
utterly  ruined,  and  the  loss  in  this  direction  is  extremely  heavy. 

Mauritius,  or,  as  it  is  sometimes  called,  Isle  of  France,  has  always 
been  noted  for  its  violent  and  destructive  hurricanes,  but  this  one 
exceeds  in  destructiveness  any  hitherto  known. 

Taking  warning  from  previous  gales,  everything  possible  was  done 
to  minimize  the  threatened  damage,  but  when  at  last  the  gale  burst, 
all  the  precautions  proved  of  no  avail.  The  shipping  in  the  Harbor 
sent  down  their  topmasts,  extra  anchors  were  let  go,  cables  were  paid 
out,  and  everything  was  made  snug  below  and  aloft.  Had  it  been  an 
ordinary  hurricane  the  vessels  might  have  successfully  ridden  out 
the  storm.  But  so  fierce  Avas  the  storm  that  cables  parted  like  pack- 
thread, and  the  vessels  Avere  dashed  upon  the  coral  reefs,  that  are  so 
dangerous  to  navigation  about  the  Island. 

Among  the  vessels  that  Avere  stranded  were  the  folloAving : the 
British  Steamer  Poutakotu,  the  Umballa,  the  bark  William  Wilson, 
Steamer  Oaklands,  the  Schooner  Paula,  and  the  bark  Princess  Wil- 
helmina.  All  these  vessels  Avere  slightly  damaged. 

The  vessels  still  aground  are  the  bark  Strathspey,  the  Ship  Leander, 
the  Ship  Aconcagua,  the  Ship  Queen  of  Scots,  the  Ship  Eurydice,  the 
Steamer  Amaranth,  and  the  Steamer  Gladiator. 

Mauritius  is  an  Island  of  the  Indian  Ocean,  lying  to  the  East  of 
Madagascar.  It  is  oval  in  shape,  being  39  miles  in  length  and  34 
miles  in  its  greatest  breadth.  It  is  surrounded  by  coral  reefs,  and  in 
the  interior  is  composed  chiefly  of  rugged  and  irregular  Mountains, 
the  highest  point  being  3,000  feet  above  the  Sea. 

The  climate  is  unhealthy,  and  the  Island  is  subject  to  violent,  fre- 
quent, and  destructiA^e  hurricanes.  It  has  belonged  in  turn  to  the 
Portuguese,  the  Dutch,  the  French,  and  the  English,  having  been  in 
the  possession  of  the  latter  since  1810. 

French  is  the  language  chiefly  spoken.  The  total  population, 
according  to  the  census  of  1881,  Avas  361,000,  and  in  1890  it  had 
increased  to  373,000.  Two-thirds  of  the  people  belong  to  what  is 
known  as  the  Indian  population,  the  other  third  including  large 


372 


LETTER  NO.  16. 


numbers  of  Africans  and  half-breeds.  Port  Louis,  the  Capital,  had 
a population  of  61,000  in  1889.”] 

Mauritius  presents  the  curious  condition  of  an  English  possession 
for  eighty  years,  yet  without  any  of  the  force  and  genius  which  accom- 
panies the  Anglo-Saxon,  whithersoever  he  goes.  English  is  but  little 
spoken — and  English  influence  but  little  felt.  French  is  the  Type 
and  the  Tongue  of  the  upper  classes,  and  they  seem  resolved  that 
neither  shall  pass  away.  Five-sixths,  probably,  of  the  population 
are  people  from  India — yet  coming  from  Hindoostan,  where,  doubt- 
less, they  spoke  Pidgeon  English,  they  forthwith  take  on  Pidgeon 
French,  which  universally  prevails.  Would  it  not  have  been  better 
for  the  Islands,  that  Anglo-Saxonism  should  have  dominated  from 
the  beginning?  With  all  their  genius  in  many  directions,  the  French 
have  never  succeeded  as  Colonizers.  The  Anglo-Saxons,  of  all  peoples, 
know  that  r6le  best.  Among  the  Inhabitants,  there  is  absolute  free- 
dom in  Religion.  Of  the  Christian  Faith,  the  Roman  Catholics  are 
in  the  ascendant ; the  Indians  are  divided  into  Mahomedans  and 
Hindoos — of  whom  the  Hindoos  are  far  the  more  numerous. 

Now,  let  us  bid  farewell  to  Mauritius. 

The  hour  set  for  our  departure  was  four  o’clock  p.  m.  We  did 
not  get  off  till  after  five.  I sat  on  Deck  and  enjoyed  the  going  out, 
bound  for  Tamatave  in  Madagascar,  distant  Northwest  over  the  Indian 
Ocean,  four  hundred  and  seventy-five  miles.  I don’t  think  I have 
mentioned  that  Mauritius  was  discovered  by  the  Dutch  in  1598  and 
named  after  Prince  Maurice;  was  taken  by  the  French,  and  captured 
by  the  English  in  1810,  in  whose  possession  it  has  since  remained. 

On  Same  Steamship,  Indian  Ocean, 

Friday,  May  30,  1890. 

My  Room-mate,  Dr.  Hamilton,  is  badly  used  up  with  fever.  His 
legs  are  oederaatous,  and  he  walks  with  difficulty.  I was  up  and  out 
early  on  Deck,  where  the  atmosphere  was  delightful.  He  could  not 
get  out  thus  early,  and  when  I went  back  towards  mid-day  found 
him  still  lying  down.  I induced  him  to  come  on  Deck,  and  gave 
him  ray  Chair  to  sit  in,  telling  him  it  was  at  his  service  during  the 
Voyage — he  not  having  one. 


STEAMSHIP  DUNBOBIN  CASTLE— INDIAN  OCEAN.  373 


Our  Ship,  the  Dunrobin  Castle,  is  not  what  now-a-days  would  be 
called  First  Class.  She  is  two  thousand  eight  hundred  tons,  and 
old,  having  none  of  the  modern  improvements — Electric  Lights,  Ice 
Factory,  or  Water  Distiller  or  Purifier.  But,  notwithstanding,  I 
get  along  comfortably  enough  ; things  go  well  in  my  big  Cabin,  with 
my  single  Room-mate.  But  I fear  we  will  have  to  take  on  more 
in  Madagascar,  and  be  incommoded.  The  Captain,  whose  name  is 
Winder,  tells  me  he  expects  a number  of  Missionaries  and  their 
children  will  there  board  us,  and  we  may  be  crowded ; the  Captain 
is  from  Cork,  Ireland,  and  his  name  is  pronounced  with  the  i short, 
as  in  Wind — not  long  as  with  our  Winders. 

Among  the  passengers  on  board,  is  a Major  W.  and  his  wife  and 
a grown  daughter,  a Paymaster  in  the  English  Army,  going  from 
India,  where  he  has  been  stationed,  to  Natal,  whither  he  has  been 
ordered,  and  a Lady  whose  name  I have  not  learned,  wife  of  another 
English  Officer,  ordered  from  Mauritius  to  Natal,  whom  she  is  pre- 
ceding to  his  post,  and  who,  together  with  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Nead  and 
myself  and  a few  others,  sit  at  the  Captain’s  Table. 

No  conversations  have  taken  place  worthy  of  record,  or  throwing 
any  light  upon  my  travels : indeed,  I have  been  more  struck  with  the 
feebleness  and  want  of  knowledge  of  some  of  my  fellow-travellers 
and  comrades  than  with  anything  else;  when  an  Officer  of  sixty  years 
of  age  asked  me,  with  confidence,  if  the  recent  manifestations  he  has 
read  of  in  China  with  regard  to  internal  improvement  would  not  lead 
very  soon  to  the  connection  of  that  Empire  and  the  United  States  by 
Rail ! I simply  and  quietly  responded,  that  the  only  trouble  it 
seemed  to  me  was  the  intervention  of  the  Pacific  Ocean,  save  by  the 
Aleutian  Islands.  It  is  amazing  how  ignorant  and  stupid  an  Eng- 
lishman can  sometimes  be  ; for  he  can  be  equally  well-informed  and 
bright.  This  can  hardly  occur  with  the  American  of  equal  advan- 
tages ; he  is  of  more  cosmopolitan  build,  and  quickness  of  appre- 
hension. 

On  Same  Ship  and  Ocean, 

And  at  Tamatave,  Island  of  Madagascar, 

Saturday,  May  31,  1890. 

Early  this  morning  we  sighted  the  Island  of  Madagascar,  stretch- 
ing for  many  miles  along  our  Western  Horizon.  About  mid-day, 
passing  Prune  Island,  a small  circular  tract  of  land,  thick-set  with 


374 


LETTER  NO.  16. 


trees  and  a large  elliptical  Coral  Reef,  we  came  to  anchor  some  distance 
out  in  the  Roadstead  of  Tamatave — pronounced  with  the  e silent. 
Prune  Island  is  several  miles  from  the  Shore,  and  the  timber  from 
it  is  sometimes  used ; but  the  Island  is  used  more,  I am  told,  for  the 
manufacture  of  Lime  out  of  the  Coral  formations  which  abound.  The 
elliptical  Coral  formation  of  which  I have  spoken,  is  an  Atoll,  the  first 
I have  ever  seen  in  my  Tropic  travels — an  interesting  phenomenon. 
The  industrious  creatures  lay  a floor,  building  it  only  a few  feet  below 
the  water : for  they  cannot  stand  its  pressure  at  great  depths,  nor  can 
they  endure  exposure  to  the  air.  They  love  the  joint  warmth  of 
Tropic  suns  and  seas.  In  eycles  of  years,  they  and  their  progeny 
work  industriously,  and  spread  the  bounds  of  their  habitation  wider 
and  wider,  until  they  inclose  many  acres.  Within  the  circle,  the 
water  is  calm  and  serene ; around  its  rim  the  Ocean  waves  ceaselessly 
toss  themselves,  breaking  in  snow-white  crests.  It  is  very  beautiful. 

When  we  had  cast  Anchor,  I observed  another  Atoll  close  to  the 
land — a large,  well-formed  one,  too,  the  Shore  itself  making  part  of 
its  circumference.  The  Second  Officer  told  me  he  had  visited  both, 
and  waded  aeross  the  inner  water,  only  a few  feet  deep,  with,  how- 
ever, deeper  pools.  I had  hitherto  supposed  the  Atoll  often  enclosed 
a deep  Lagune.  The  diminutive  architects  building  only  the  enclosure 
in  their  life-time  work. 

The  Town  stretches  along  the  Shore  for,  probably,  a mile,  most  of 
it  hid  in  foliage;  the  Cocoanut  telling  us,  by  its  numerous  specimens, 
of  the  Tropic  locality.  Near  the  Northern  end  there  floated  from  a 
lofty  staff  the  Stars  and  Stripes  of  the  Consnl  of  the  United  States. 
We  could  see  quite  well  the  contour  of  the  Country  beyond.  The 
low  ground  on  which  the  town  is  located,  reaches  back,  I am  told, 
twelve  or  fifteen  miles  before  it  begins  to  ascend  into  Mountains, 
conspicuous  from  the  Sea.  These  Mountains  crown  the  interior,  and 
attain,  in  some  of  their  peaks,  an  elevation  of  eight  or  nine  thousand 
feet.  They  are  of  Voleanic  origin,  and  hundreds  of  extinct  craters 
tell  us  how,  in  ages  gone,  they  built  the  Island.  Among  them,  on  a 
plateau,  five  thousand  feet  above  the  Sea,  and  about  two  hundred 
miles  from  Tamatave,  is  Tananarive  or  Autannanarivo,  the  Capital, 
where  is  the  Palace  of  the  Queen,  the  Ruler  of  the  Native  tribes. 

We  determined  to  go  ashore,  but  not  till  later  in  the  afteimoon ; 
for,  while  pleasant,  eool  breezes  played  about  the  Ship,  the  heat  of 
the  Sun  was  too  intense  to  trust.  At  four  o’clock  I inquired  for  a 


TAM  AT  A VE—MADAOASCAE. 


375 


boat ; a gentleman  hearing  me,  tendered  his  own,  and  said  he  would 
gladly  take  us  to  Tamatave  when  he  returned.  I did  not  thus  like 
to  ring  in ; but  finding  no  excuse,  went  ashore,  and  paid  what  would 
have  been  our  fare  to  his  private  oarsmen.  We  found  he  was  a 
native  of  the  Island,  though  of  English  parentage,  and  Agent  of  this 
Line. 

These  oarsmen  were  full-bred  Negroes.  I observed  that  the  oars- 
men of  all  the  boats,  and  the  operatives  on  the  Launches  that  came 
to  the  Vessel,  bringing  and  taking  freight,  were  of  the  same  Race — 
and  uncommonly  fine  muscular  fellows  they  were,  full  of  strength 
and  apparent  health.  They  are  black,  woolly-headed,  and  well  formed, 
a coarse  flax  or  cotton  shirt,  not  unlike  a bag,  their  only  garment, 
and  I could  see  how  their  admirably  developed  torso  was  set  on  legs 
that  supported  it  like  columns.  Their  faces  were  animal  and  coarse, 
but  through  its  rugged  lines  appeared  that  amiable,  light-hearted 
temper,  which  distinguishes  their  brethren  with  us. 

We  walked  from  one  end  of  Tamatave  to  the  other,  along  the  chief 
Street — the  only  one,  indeed,  of  any  import  it  may  be  said  to  have ; 
the  Negroes  constituted  five-sixths  of  the  people  we  saw : employed 
in  carrying  weights  upon  their  head  or  shoulders,  sometimes  in  single 
bulk  or  suspended  on  the  ends  of  Bamboo  rods,  or  four  of  them  in 
sets,  engaged  in  conveying  persons  about  the  City  or  on  long  jour- 
neys— the  principal  mode  of  travel.  These  are  not,  however,  the 
Aborigines  or  Autochthones  of  Madagascar  ; they  have  been  brought 
hither  from  Africa  as  slaves,  or  came  as  freemen,  and  certainly  have 
taken  possession  of  the  Labor  at  least  of  Tamatave ; the  Aborigines 
are  of  the  Malay  type,  which,  by  reason  of  their  proximity  to  Africa, 
has  given  rise  to  speculation  with  regard  to  their  origin,  thus  far  from 
the  home  of  their  Ancestors.  Ingenious  Scientists  have  surmised, 
that  there  was  once  a Continent  in  the  Indian  Ocean,  whose  borders 
reached  far  Eastward.  Some  great  convulsion  sank  it  in  the  waters, 
leaving  only  the  fragment  of  Madagascar  to  represent  it ; or  it  broke 
up  into  Islands — some  East,  and  this  one  West — the  homes  of  the 
great  Malay  Race.  They  insist  they  are  confirmed  in  this  view  by 
the  animals  which  inhabit  it — different  from  those  which  belong  to 
the  Continent  of  Africa — especially  the  Lemur ; and,  consequently, 
call  the  lost  Continent  Lemuria.  There  is  not  more  probability, 
nor  less,  than  for  Atlantis,  the  dream  both  of  ancient  and  modern 
times. 


376 


LETTER  NO.  16. 


The  main  thoroughfare  of  Tamatave  is  neither  graded  nor  paved 
in  mid-street  or  sidewalk — only  a stretch  of  deep  sand,  through  which 
the  pedestrian  must  wade  or  be  born  on  the  shoulders  of  four  men 
in  chairs,  called  Filanjanas — -j  pronounced  like  z — simply  a light 
frame  of  iron  or  wood,  in  outline  of  a chair,  set  on  two  Bamboo  or 
other  rods.  We  preferred  to  trudge  through  the  sand,  that  we  might 
the  better  see.  We  passed  a Catholic  Church,  a large  and  respectable 
affair,  but  it  was  not  the  hour  of  Service.  Then  we  visited  the  so- 
called  Shops  and  Bazars  of  the  Natives — humble  things — only  inter- 
esting to  us  from  the  manufactured  commodities  of  the  Malagasses 
exposed  for  sale.  I bought  two  mantles,  or  wraps,  woven  of  grass, 
or  the  filaments  of  the  Palm  Leaf,  called  Lambas,  and  a couple  of 
Horn  spoons,  and  some  bits  cut  from  a French  Napoleon,  used  for 
coin  of  circulation. 

There  are  some  excellent  houses  of  the  whites  along  this  Street, 
among  the  humble  homes  of  the  Natives.  Among  them,  the  English 
Consulate  and  a gentleman  from  Boston,  the  only  American  here, 
engaged  in  business.  There  is,  also,  an  American  Consul,  Mr.  Camp- 
bell ; we  had  not  time  to  call,  but  Tamatave  must  be  a sorry  place 
to  live  iu.  The  Native  Shops  have,  like  those  of  the  Orient,  the 
whole  front  exposed  upon  the  Street,  and  many  squat  in  the  sand  on 
the  Street  and  spread  out  their  commodities  on  a cloth.  From  one 
of  the  shops  I bought  the  spoons  and  mantle ; from  one  of  the  curb- 
stone Brokers — if  they  had  curb-stones — I bought  two  pieces  of 
chipped  silver,  one  of  which  I gave  to  Mrs.  Nead  for  her  chain,  the 
other  I will  put  upon  my  own. 

Towards  sunset  we  came  back  to  the  Ship,  and  ended  our  investi- 
gation of  Tamatave,  at  least  for  the  day.  It  is  supposed  to  have  a 
population  of  six  or  seven  thousand. 

On  Same  Steamee,  and  at  Tamatave, 

Sunday,  June  1,  1890. 

Before  Breakfast,  two  gentlemen,  Mr.  Goulden  and  Mr.  Rogers, 
going  ashore,  invited  me  to  join  them.  Having  nothing  else  to  do, 
I went ; I wanted  to  see  more  of  the  people,  which  I would  have  an 
opportunity  of  doing  at  the  Catholic  Church,  that  was  open  at  eight 
o’clock  for  Services. 


TAM  AT  A VE. 


377 


The  Shore  and  the  Streets  were  full  of  the  same  Negro  labor-popu- 
lation which  attracted  my  notice  yesterday.  Though  Sunday,  they 
were  clad,  or  rather  unclad,  like  yesterday — a coarse  shii't  or  bag 
their  only  garment — wandering  lazily  about  the  Streets  or  sitting  in 
the  sand,  chatting  merrily,  and  seeming  to  enjoy  life  more  than  those 
who  fill  a higher  sphere.  But  none  the  less  did  I admire  their  fine 
physique,  the  embodiment  of  health  and  strength. 

We  walked  about  till  eight  o’clock,  the  hour  of  Church,  and  then 
went  to  see  them  gather  to  the  Services,  by  the  ringing  of  the  bell. 
The  Church  is  a large  and  good  one  for  such  a place,  and  the  crowd 
of  men,  women,  and  children  in  their  best  attire  was  great.  They 
were  not  Negroes,  such  as  those  of  whom  I have  S23oken,  but  the 
descendants  of  the  Aborigines  of  the  Island — of  the  Malay  type — or 
mixed,  dressed  in  Euro2)ean  style,  but  with  the  flashy  coloring  and 
trimming  of  the  undeveloped,  aspiring  to  higher  things.  Several 
Church  Schools  were  there,  of  little  boys  and  girls,  well  appointed 
and  behaved,  who  united  most  creditably  in  the  Music. 

I thought,  though  there  were  crosses  of  both  the  white  and  black, 
the  Malay  Type  was  well  defined.  The  Negroes,  of  whom  I have 
hitherto  spoken,  are  simply  the  laboring  element;  these  are  the  better 
classes — the  Malagasses  or  Malagashes.  We  are  told  there  are  on  the 
Island  three  distinct  Tribes,  viz. : the  Betsimasavakas,  the  Sakalavas, 
and  the  Hovas ; the  first  dwell  mainly  on  the  East,  the  Sakalavas 
on  the  West  Coast;  the  Hovas  are  the  Ruling  Tribe,  to  which  the 
2>resent  Queen  belongs,  whose  homes  are  in  the  centre  of  the  Island, 
about  the  Cajjital,  Tananarive;  from  what  I can  learn,  ruling  by 
tacit  consent,  as  the  Incas  once  ruled  the  Peruvian  Aborigines. 

The  same  curious  incident  occurred  here  that  hajipened,  you 
remember,  in  the  Hawaiian  Islands  : there,  by  Proclamation,  Kame- 
hameha  II.  abolished  Tabu,  the  Kanaka  Faith ; here,  in  Sejjtember, 
1869,  the  last  Queen,  by  her  order,  committed  the  Idols  of  the  whole 
Nation  to  the  flames ; thus  leaving  all  things  open  for  the  advent  of 
the  Missionaries.  There  had  been  some  for  many  years  before ; but, 
noAV,  they  came  in  greater  volume,  mainly  under  the  ausj3ices  of  the 
London  Missionary  Society,  beside  the  Catholic,  and  have  been  work- 
ing diligently.  Twenty-five  or  thirty  of  them,  men,  women,  and 
children,  came  on  board  to-day,  bound  for  England — some  on  a visit, 
some  leaving  finally.  They  have  resided  in  and  about  the  Capital, 
and  though  this  is  five  thousand  feet  above  the  Sea,  and  the  Country 


378 


LETTER  NO.  16. 


is  an  extensive  Plateau,  yet,  they  tell  me,  it  is  filled  with  pools  and 
marshes,  and  with  such  wretched  sanitary  precautions,  that  nearly 
every  one  of  these  newcomers  is  fever  smitten.  The  population  of 
the  Capital  is  more  than  one  hundred  thousand. 

Madagascar  is  eight  hundred  and  fifty  miles  long,  with  an  average 
width  of  two  hundred  and  fifty — its  greatest,  three  hundred  and 
fifteen  miles.  It  cau  hardly  be  called  valuable  in  proportion  to  its 
size.  The  elevated  Plateau,  reaching  from  four  to  five  thousand 
feet,  is  of  tenacious  clay,  which,  hardened  by  the  Sun,  is  unfriendly 
to  vegetation.  The  Coast  is  low,  and  subject  to  deadly  fevers.  Its 
population  is  not  accurately  ascertained,  ranging  in  popular  estimate 
anywhere  from  three  to  six  millions. 

The  French  are  making  vigorous  efforts  to  Colonize  within  its 
borders.  I have  told  you  of  their  doings  in  the  Comoros  ; they  have 
already  established  Colonies  on  the  East  Coast  of  Madagascar,  at  the 
Island  of  Saint  Marie,  or  Nossi  Burra ; on  the  North  West  at  Bah 
Bay,  and  farther  North  at  Nossi  Be — and,  doubtless,  would  like  to, 
and  will,  make  further  invasions.  The  people  and  the  Government 
apprehend  this,  and  are  opposed  to  the  construction  of  any  internal 
Improvements,  fearing  they  may  perform  the  part  of  the  Trojan 
Horse.  The  only  mode  of  reaching  the  Capital  now,  is  from  Tama- 
tave,  distant  about  two  hundred  miles,  on  foot  or  by  chairs  or  Filan- 
janas,  borne  by  men,  a journey  of  from  ten  to  fifteen  days. 

At  one  o’clock  p.  m.  we  again  lifted  Anchor  and  steamed  South- 
ward, coastwise,  to  Mananjara — the  j pronounced  like  z — distant  two 
hundred  and  three  miles. 

On  Same  Steamer  and  Ocean, 

Monday  and  Tuesday,  June  2 and  3,  1890. 

These  two  days  have  gone  without  special  incident ; steaming 
calmly  along  the  Eastern  front  and  rounding  the  great  Island,  which, 
as  I have  said,  is  eight  hundred  and  fifteen  miles;  these  measure- 
ments the  Captain  gives  me  from  his  Charts. 

On  Monday  at  mid-day  we  anchored  several  miles  off  a small  place 
called  Mananjara.  We  could  see  it  from  the  Ship,  seated  on  the  low 
Shore,  and  among  its  Tropic  growths,  looking  hot  and  malarious 
enough.  Some  more  Missionaries  came  aboard,  bound  for  Merry 
England.  They  were  brought  out  in  large  boats  with  sails,  beside 


STEAMSHIP  DUNROBIN  CASTLE— INDIAN  OCEAN.  379 


being  manned  by  Negro  oarsmen,  like  those  I told  you  of  at  Tama- 
tave,  and  dressed  in  the  same  primitive  costume.  Again  was  I struck 
with  their  apparent  vigor,  and  their  ugly  and  gross,  yet  amiable  faces ; 
though  whilst  looking  at  them  from  the  Deck,  one  of  the  Mission- 
aries told  me,  they  were,  almost  without  exception,  filled  with  dis- 
ease. 

Advancing  Southward,  the  weather  grew  sensibly  cooler : though 
since  we  left  Mauritius  there  has  been  no  great  heat,  and  the  natural 
breezes  and  those  made  by  the  Steamer  in  its  motion  have  rendered 
the  weather  delightful  on  Deck  under  the  awning.  No  Life,  how- 
ever, of  Sea  or  Air  has  enlivened  our  passage — no  Fish,  no  Birds, 
save  a single  one,  which  we  took  for  a young  Albatross  trying  its 
wings ; though  it  could  have  hardly  been  in  this  hot  region,  so  far 
from  home. 

The  Mountains  improved  in  majesty  and  outline  during  the  morn- 
ing of  Tuesday,  and  drew  near  the  Coast,  throwing  themselves  into 
ranges  and  ridges,  now  receding,  and  now  advancing  shoi'eward 
with  great  and  picturesque  beauty.  In  the  afternoon,  they  broke 
down  utterly,  and  Madagascar  lay  a flat,  uninteresting  Landscape. 
We  passed  during  the  day  Fort  Dauphin,  two  hundred  and  forty 
miles  from  Manaujara — a small  structure  on  the  Southeast  Coast, 
built  by  the  French,  and  scarce  visible  from  the  Ship.  About  Mid- 
night we  will  pass  Cape  Saint  Mary,  the  Southernmost  Point  of 
Madagascar,  and  then  steam  direct  for  Natal. 

All  went  to  bed  in  the  promised  security  of  a calm  night,  with 
their  Ports  open,  to  enjoy  the  balmy  atmos2)here.  Whilst  they  slejit, 
the  Shij)  passed  through  a current,  which,  mounting  under  the  im- 
pulse, dashed  through  the  openings  in  floods  that  drenched  the  unhapjiy 
passengers  in  their  Berths  and  filled  the  floors  with  water  to  the  depth 
of  several  inches.  Hapjjily,  my  Cabin  is  on  the  Hurricane  Deck,  and 
the  waves  did  not  dash  so  high. 

I have  talked  with  many  of  the  Missionaries,  male  and  female, 
and  gathered  much  information  about  Madagascar,  and  their  work 
among  its  peoj)le.  I have  found  them  very  j)leasant  and  seemingly 
most  worthy  agents  of  the  Church  ; doing  the  best  they  could.  I 
gather  from  our  conversations,  that  they  do  not  regard  their  labors 
as,  by  any  means,  superabundantly  rewarded.  They  have  not  estab- 
lished the  ability  of  our  Civilization  to  lift  an  undeveloped  Race  to 
our  own  level,  within  any  appreciable  number  of  years;  nor  the 


380 


LETTER  NO.  16. 


capacity  of  the  Missionary  to  lift  it  to  the  arena  of  our  lofty  Religious 
Faith  and  keep  it  there.  The  vices  of  our  Civilization  they  readily 
appropriate ; the  virtues  of  our  Religion  they,  alas  ! only  in  the  main 
profess.  The  vices  are-  agreeable  to  their  physical  organization,  and 
cling  with  consequent  tenacity ; the  virtues,  too  heavy  for  their  unde- 
veloped intellect,  are  weakened  by  the  concealment  of  the  vices  they 
practice,  or  wiped  out  by  the  waves  of  superstitious  tendencies  which 
have  been  transmitted  to  them  by  generations  of  ancestral  practices 
and  beliefs.  The  honest  Missionaries  freely  admit  their  work  to  be 
one  of  immense  difficulty ; at  times  almost  hopeless  to  the  devoted 
laborer  in  his  high  and  noble  field.  I heard  among  them  no  blowing 
and  boastful  declarations  of  their  success ; only  a modest  admission 
of  their  difficulties,  and  hopes  of  their  ultimate  triumph — bread  cast 
upon  the  water  to  be  gathered  after  many  days. 

I met  on  board  Monsieur  , the  French  Consul  to 

Natal,  en  route  to  his  post  of  duty.  He  is  evidently  a gentleman, 
and  speaks  English  very  well,  having,  he  tells  me,  spent  some  time 
in  New  York  City.  We  have  had  a great  deal  of  conversation  about 
his  Country  and  its  Institutions.  He  is  a believer  in  the  right  and 
power  of  the  people  to  rule,  and  has  abundant  faith  in  France  and 
her  Republic.  He  thinks  Boulanger  a wretched  ass  and  tool  of  the 
Monarchists  and  enemies  of  Free  Institutions  of  every  Ilk;  and  only 
a figure-head  of  the  inborn  disturbers  of  the  Peace,  over  all  of  whom 
France  will  ultimately  and  speedily  triumph.  He  not  only  thinks 
the  French  people  capable  of  Self-Government,  but  that  its  present 
forms  will  endure,  and  under  them  France  not  only  maintain  Free- 
dom and  Liberty  at  home,  but  in  her  fast  growing  strength  avenge 
her  indignities  and  losses.  Had  Germany  only  insisted  on  indemnity, 
the  War  would  have  been  forgotten  : but  France  cannot  forget  Alsace 
and  Lorraine;  and  the  bloody  battle  has  again  to  be  fought,  for  which 
France  is  nearly  ready.  I asked  him,  what  he  thought  of  Napoleon 
III?  for  many  outside  of  France  thought  him  great,  till  the  day  when 
he  was  so  suddenly  snuffed  out.  He  replied,  that  he  was  a mere 
creature  of  circumstances,  without  any  substantial  ability  of  his  own. 
Whatever  able  things  were  done  during  his  Rule,  or  in  the  modes  of 
his  exaltation  to  power,  were  the  work  of  far  abler  men,  who  used 
Napoleon  to  accomplish  their  purposes.  And  now,  that  he  and  his 
work  have  gone  into  History,  the  Frenchman  feels  only  shame,  that 
such  a hollow  fraud  could  so  long  have  flaunted  himself  in  France. 


STEAMSHIP  DUNBOBIN  CASTLE— INDIAN  OCEAN.  381 


The  World  ought  to  remember,  that  the  French  people  have  had 
many  difficulties  to  encounter  in  their  march  to  Republican  Institu- 
tions, and  the  ruins  of  many  Images  to  remove,  before  they  have 
cleared  the  site  for  the  great  Temple  of  Freedom  they  are  building. 

Same  Ship  and  Ocean, 

Wednesday,  June  4,  1890. 

Crossing  to-day  the  mouth  of  the  Mozambique  Channel,  we  met 
the  current  coming  down  from  the  Equatorial  regions,  between  Mada- 
gascar and  the  Coast  of  Africa,  and  our  Ship  has  had  a lively  time, 
tossing  the  Crockeryware  around,  and  making  things  exceedingly 
brisk  aboard.  Our  Missionaries  are  sick — sick  of  fever  expressed  or 
latent  when  they  came — sick  of  Mai  de  Mer  now ; doubtless  the  one 
will  help  the  other;  when  all  is  over,  and  the  journey  home  com- 
pleted, and  they  strike  the  balance,  they  may  find  themselves  the 
gainers. 

Of  course,  I anticipated  the  rough  time  we  are  having,  and  thought 
these  elements  could  not  collide  without  disturbance.  I will  be  sur- 
prised if  we  do  not  have  it  rough  till  we  reach  Natal.  Not  regarding 
weather  and  whatever  its  behavior,  feeling  well,  the  various  currents 
of  wind  and  water  through  which  I pass  are  to  me  an  unceasing 
source  of  study.  I have  now — certainly  will,  upon  the  completion  of 
this  long  Tour — travelled  with,  or  against,  or  athwart  all  the  Ocean 
currents  of  the  World,  and  am  ever  impressed  with  the  wonder  of 
that  Divine  Economy  which,  with  them,  binds  the  earth  and  its 
inhabitants  in  the  bonds  of  neighborhood  and  health. 

Same  Ship  and  Ocean, 

Thursday,  June  5,  1890. 

Last  night  the  Ship  behaved  more  unsteadily  than  ever,  tossing 
and  tumbling  ahead,  and,  notwithstanding  the  fight  she  was  having 
with  the  waves,  and  the  inconvenience  to  which  her  unsteady  gait 
was  putting  those  she  carried,  steaming  with  admirable  progress  and 
perseverance.  I slept  through  all ; but  many  others  told  me  they 
had  no  sleep,  amid  the  efforts  to  save  themselves  in  their  Berths  and 
the  noise  of  breaking  furniture  and  crockery. 


S82 


LETTER  NO.  16. 


All  day  this  rolling  of  our  Ship  continued;  now  and  then  a sudden 
lurch  would  throw  things  into  mess,  and  in  the  Saloon,  would  empty 
our  cups,  and  tumblers,  and  plates  into  our  laps ; on  Deck,  would 
throw  people  and  chairs  pell-mell,  and  produce  confusion,  sometimes 
mixed  with  thumps  and  bruises. 

I,  to  the  extent  of  my  ability,  avoided  the  danger  and  have  escaped ; 
the  Captain  and  other  Officers  helping  me  to  the  extent  of  their 
ability. 

I go  early  to  bed  and  always  have  a good  night’s  rest,  forgetting 
the  unsettled  condition  of  the  Sea,  and  the  consequent  unrest  of  those 
aboard.  What  a blessing  to  the  voyageur  to  be  on  good  terms  with 
the  Ocean  ! then  it  is  the  same,  whether  he  be  in  quiet  or  sportive 
mood ; whether  he  pulsates  gently  in  mirror  smoothness,  reflecting 
the  Ship  and  Clouds,  or  swelling  into  mighty  billows,  he  dashes  their 
crests  against  the  Stars. 

Same  Ship  and  Ocean, 

Friday,  June  6,  1890. 

The  Sea,  during  the  night  and  to-day,  has  been  carrying  on  the 
same,  and  the  helpless  traveller  is  getting  tired  of  being  hurled  around, 
and  is  calling  aloud  for  rest.  To  heighten  the  contrast  and  intensify 
the  hurly-burly,  the  heavens  are  unclouded,  and  the  Sun  seems  pleased 
that  Neptune  and  Boreas  are  having  a good  time  together,  and  gives 
them  the  benefit  of  his  smiles,  regardless,  as  the  Gods  of  Old  often 
were,  of  how  poor  mortals  suffered  in  the  Game. 

This  Indian  Ocean,  anyway,  is  an  interesting  play  ground  for  the 
elements.  It  is  not  open  at  either  end  like  its  confrffi’es  ; but  round 
its  Northern  confines,  it  is  bound  in  by  Tropic  Continental  Lands, 
which  make  it  the  area  of  fierce  elemental  conflicts.  The  Sun  is  the 
father  of  them  all — Terrestrial  Disturber  of  the  Peace  that  he  ever 
is.  He  makes,  with  the  revolution  of  the  Earth,  the  Equatorial 
winds  and  currents,  which,  as  elsewhere,  perform  their  appointed 
work  in  the  Indian  Ocean.  Not  satisfied  with  this  perennial  and 
beautiful  proceeding,  travelling  North  and  South,  he  makes  the 
Periodic  Monsoon.  These  children  cannot  in  their  very  nature  live 
in  peace.  When  he  takes  his  annual  tour,  at  this  season  of  the  year, 
beyond  the  Line,  he  carries  disturbance  with  him,  and  creating  the 
Southwest  Monsoon  forces  it  into  collision  with  the  Northeast  Equa- 
torial current,  and  makes  things  quite  lively  in  his  Northern  Court. 


STEAMSHIP  DUNBOBIN  CASTLE— INDIAN  OCEAN.  383 


In  this  Antipodal  Region,  as  a remembrancer  whilst  away,  he  simply 
sends  ns  from  the  superabundance  of  his  resources,  emissaries  from 
his  Equatorial  Battle-Fields,  which,  mingling  with  elements  he  left 
behind,  cooled  off  by  his  delay,  enter  into  the  jolly  sport  now  dis- 
turbing us — only  jolly  sport — nothing  dangerous  : for  he  will  not  in 
his  absence  trust  them  with  greater  power. 

But  when  his  tour  is  done,  and  he  returns,  leaving  Winter  in  the 
North,  and  bringing  Summer  here,  he  orders  his  cohorts  with  him, 
and  clothing  them  with  fury,  sends  them  whirling,  with  Death  and 
Ruin  on  their  wings,  making  one  think  that  Mythologic  times  have 
come  again,  and  that  Phaeton  has  climbed  into  the  Chariot  of  the 
Sun. 

Thus  we  have  it  in  our  Northern  Summer  Time:  the  Sun  creating 
the  Southwest  Monsoon,  brings  it  into  collision  with  his  other  off- 
spring, the  Equatorial  winds  and  currents,  and  makes  troublous  times 
that  side  the  Line,  in  this  Indian  Basin,  In  our  Northern  Winter 
Time,  he  comes  down  here,  and  gathering  up  his  forces,  now  and  then 
sends  them  out  in  the  shape  of  Cyclones,  and  scatters  ruin  far  and 
near.  Such  was  that  which  Mauritius  and  Bourbon  suffered  in  1868, 
and  unnumbered  Rich  Argosies  that  went  down,  of  which  no  record 
has  been  kept. 

Now,  I must  draw  this  Letter  to  an  end.  To-morrow  we  hope  to 
reach  D’Urban,  the  chief  Port  of  Natal,  where  we  leave  this  Steamer 
for  a short  Tour  of  that  Colony.  This  will  not  detain  ns  long,  and 
by  the  next  Steamer  we  will  go  on  to  Elizabeth,  whence  we  will  visit 
the  Interior,  and  by  Rail  make  our  way  to  Cape  Town.  D’Urban 
will  finish,  from  Port  Louis,  another  long  link  of  my  Travel  Chain, 
of  eighteen  hundred  and  thirty-five  miles. 

I am  getting  extremely  impatient  to  reach  Cape  Town,  that  I may 
receive  your  Letters,  a good  many  of  which,  I trust,  await  me  there. 
Never  on  any  Tour,  I have  several  times  before  remarked,  have  your 
Letters  come  so  rarely.  Not  a single  opportunity  for  me  to  write 
has  been  lost : I trust  the  Letters  have  reached  you  in  due  time 
and  safely.  How  I long  to  know  how  you  are,  and  how  you  got 
through  with  your  works ! Your  Letters,  doubtless,  will  tell  me 
these  important  things. 

To  Margaret : How  I long,  too,  for  your  Letters,  such  a number 
of  which  never  came ! How  are  you  all  ? Give  my  love  to  the 


384 


LETTER  NO.  16. 


Doctor,  and  Mary,  and  Mag.  Never  on  any  Tour  have  I wanted  so 
much  to  see  you  every  one,  and  never  again  will  I go  upon  such  a 
Tour — thus  I now  feel  and  say.  But  I am  in  perfect  health,  and  I 
hope  these  Letters  may  tell  you,  pleasantly,  what  enjoyment  they 
have  given  me  to  write,  hoping  the  same  will  follow  the  reading 
of  them. 

I will  mail  this  on  board,  or  take  it  ashore  with  me  and  mail  it 
there.  It  may  thence  speed  on  a faster  Steamer  than  this — the  faster 
the  better. 

D’Urban,  Natal, 

Scdurday,  June  7,  1890. 

We  were  safely  landed  this  mox’uing.  My  next  Letter  will  give 
particulars.  I close  this  for  mail. 

In  haste.  With  tenderest  love  for  all, 

F. 


[No.  17.] 


D’Urban,  Natal,  Africa,  Bei.grave  Hotel, 

Saturday,  June  7,  1890. 


My  Dear  Margaret, — 


Yesterday  I finished  No.  16  to  Taylor,  on  the  Steamer  Duurobin 
Castle,  of  the  Castle  or  Donald  Currie  Line,  which  brought  me  safely 
here  from  Mauritius  via  Madagascar. 

This  morning  at  early  dawn  we  sighted  the  long  Coast  of  South- 
east Africa,  lately  a part  of  the  Dark  Continent,  so-called,  now  the 
seat  of  the  growing  City  of  D’Urban,  with  its  Towers  and  Church 
Steeples  visible  from  the  Ship,  and  the  houses  in  which  people  not 
indigenous  to  the  soil  have  established  their  business,  their  habitations 
running  out  upon  the  hills  and  crowning  their  sides  and  summits  for 
miles  around.  This  is  the  Port  of  Natal,  a Colony  of  Great  Britain, 
a short  time  ago  the  possession  of  the  Kafirs — meaning,  in  the  Arabic 
tongue.  Infidel — one  of  the  finest  of  the  Savage  Races  that  our  Civiliza- 
tion has  come  across  in  its  progress  of  Conquest  and  Robbery  over  the 


D’  URBAN— AFRICA. 


385 


AVorld.  I am  free  to  say,  that  I am  not  a sympathizer  with  those  self- 
denominated  Philanthropists,  nor  those  ambitious,  notoriety-loving 
Explorers  who,  with  the  Bible  and  the  Sword,  and  vices  to  the  poor 
Savage  unknown,  are  running  hither  and  thither  about  Africa,  spread- 
ing a vast  deal  more  of  disease  and  ruin  than  virtue  and  prosperity 
among  its  inhabitants.  Over  all  the  rest  of  the  Earth  they  have 
gone,  not  elevating,  but  simply  eliminating,  as  you  and  I have  in 
our  travels  seen;  for  a while,  at  least,  let  there  be  left  to  these  people 
the  quiet  possession  and  enjoyment  of  their  own  Dark  Continent. 

To  proceed  with  my  story : the  Sea  let  down  during  the  night ; 
but  not  enough  to  enable  us  to  cross  the  Bar.  We  anchored  a mile 
or  two  out,  and  about  nine  or  ten  o’clock  a Launch  came  to  take  us 
and  our  baggage  to  the  Landing.  There  were  thirty  or  forty  to  go 
ashore,  and  all  of  us  had  to  be  transferred  from  tlie  Steamer  to  the 
.Launch  in  a Basket;  the  Sea  was  too  rough  to  permit  any  other  mode. 
You  will  recall  my  similar  experiences  in  South  America ; here,  the 
arrangement  is  somewhat  more  elaborate  : instead  of  a simple  chair, 
they  have  a cylindrical  cage  made  of  Bamboo,  in  which  you  take  a 
seat,  and  are  then  closed  in  by  a door  and  fastened,  to  avoid  any 
accident  that  may  occur  from  the  apprehension  or  alarm  of  the  occu- 
pant. And  thus,  all  safely  transferred,  we  steamed  in  our  Launch 
over  the  Bar  and  through  the  breakers  harmlessly,  and  were  landed 
on  the  Pier. 

AVe  here  learned,  for  the  first  time,  that  all  the  Hotels  of  the  City 
were  crammed ; but  Mr.  Gouldeu,  a passenger  with  whom  I had  had 
much  talk,  introduced  me  to  a Hotel  Keeper,  who  said  he  would  give 
us  Rooms  in  his  private  house;  and  Mr.  Goulden,  also,  introducing 
us  to  the  Customs  Officer,  our  trunks  and  parcels  were  forthwith 
passed,  without  examination,  and  taken  charge  of  by  our  Proprietor, 
and  then  escorted  by  him  in  a carriage  to  this  Hotel.  Some  of  his 
guests  leaving  in  the  afternoon,  it  was  unnecessary  for  us  to  accept 
his  invitation ; but  were  well  quartered  here. 

The  tide  of  travel  through  these  regions  is  now  very  great,  and 
every  place  is  crowded,  they  tell  me, — some  going  home,  some  coming 
out,  travelling  like  ourselves,  simply  to  see,  or  come  to  seek  their 
fortunes,  induced  by  the  Gold  Fever  in  the  Transvaal,  which  has  had 
another  boom.  I fear  we  will  have  a crowded  time  in  our  Tour 
through  the  Colonies,  and,  also,  on  our  voyage  from  the  Cape  to 
England.  But  I never  annoy  myself  with  prospective  trouble  and 
25 


386 


LETTER  NO.  17. 


inconvenience.  The  Room  I now  occupy  is  the  one  vacated  by  a 
San  Franciscan,  with  his  wife  and  three  children,  come  to  look  for 
fortune,  and  now  on  his  way  to  the  Transvaal  in  search  of  the  Gold 
Fields.  I did  not  learn  his  name. 

After  Lunch,  I went  to  the  Bank  of  Africa  to  draw  some  money, 
and  then  to  the  Post  Office  to  mail  No.  16  to  Taylor.  I found,  on 
inquiry,  that  to  post  it  here,  rather  than  send  it  by  the  Dunrobin 
Castle  Steamei-,  would  be  making  time : the  Steamer  which  carries 
the  mail  reaching  London  a week  before  that — not  being  delayed  by 
so  many  stoppages,  and  being,  too,  a faster  Ship.  Let  it  hurry  on  ! 
I have  regretted  on  this  Tour  that  I did  not  prepare  myself  with 
some  kind  of  a copying  apparatus.  It  seems  there  has  been  greater 
delays  and  more  confusion  and  trouble  with  Letters  to  and  fro  on 
this  than  on  any  previous  travel  I have  made.  I hope,  however,  all 
may  end  well,  and  none  from  either  side  be  lost. 

The  Post  Office  is  in  the  Town  Hall,  situated  on  the  main  or  chief 
Street — the  most  imposing  structure  in  the  place,  with  its  columns 
and  lofty  tower  visible  far  off  at  Sea  and  for  miles  around.  In  the 
same  Building  are  various  other  Offices  and  the  City  Museum,  which 
last  I visited.  It  is  small,  but  its  specimens  are  well  gotten  up  and 
cared  for.  Among  them  I will  only  mention  those  of  the  Puff 
Adder — of  which  there  are  three  or  four — two  or  three  feet  long, 
thick  as  my  anu,  of  a dusky-black  color,  and  an  uglier,  more  savage 
and  horrid-looking  monster  I never  saw.  There  is  something  royal 
in  the  Cobra  and  the  Rattle  Snake,  venomous  though  they  be ; the 
Puff  Adder  is  simply  hideous — “ earthly,  sensual,  devilish.” 

I then  strolled  about  the  Street.  Being  Saturday  afternoon,  the 
stores  in  general  were  closed  ; but  many  people,  white  and  colored, 
were  abroad  — the  former  mostly  English,  the  latter  Indians  or 
Hindoos,  Coolies,  and  Kafirs.  The  Kafir  is  woolly-headed  and 
black,  much  like  those  of  whom  I have  spoken  in  Mauritius  and 
Madagascar,  and  our  own  Negroes.  But,  as  they  are  the  Aborigines 
of  Natal,  and  one  of,  if  not  the  most  interesting  of  the  exhibits  of  the 
Colony,  I will  delay  writing  about,  till  I have  seen  more  of  them. 

I came  across  a Curio  Shop,  and  bought  an  Assegai,  the  chief 
weapon  of  the  Kafir  before  he  was  conquered — a simple  Iron  spear- 
head of  their  own  manufacture,  with  a short  handle.  I will  take  it 
home  with  me  for  our  travel  curiosity  shop.  The  Curio-Seller  tells 
me,  they  are  not  allowed  to  carry  them  now,  and  whenever  a poor 


jy  URBAN— NATAL. 


387 


fellow  is  seen  with  one,  it  can  be  taken  from  him — Othello’s  occu- 
pation being  gone  and  his  Country  passed  to  other  hands. 

Thus  was  the  afternoon  consumed.  I walked  on  the  shady  side 
of  the  Street,  the  Sun  was  hot,  and  I did  not  trust  myself  to  its  rays ; 
in  the  shade  or  under  my  umbrella,  the  air  was  cool  and  pleasant 
enough. 

Same  City  and  Hotel, 

Sunday,  June  8,  1890. 

This  has  been  to  me  a day  of  rest,  and  I have  quietly  enjoyed  it. 
I sent  my  thoughts  to  you  over  the  watei’s,  more  than  ten  thousand 
miles  away,  and  made  myself  one  of  you  on  this  quiet  Sabbath.  I 
could  picture  to  myself  what  you  were  all  about ; you  had  no  idea 
where  I was  and  what  a-doing  on  this  far  East  Coast  of  Africa.  Had 
it  been  in  Cape  Town,  and  your  Letters  had  met  me,  it  would  have 
been  far  better.  But  even  as  it  was,  I could  sever  my  heart  from  my 
presence  and  surroundings,  and  speed  it  to  you  aci’oss  the  World — 
as  I do  now. 

Last  night  was  cool  and  pleasant — the  nights  always  are,  I am 
told,  at  this  season  of  the  year  in  Natal.  The  rocking  on  the  Sea 
for  many  days  fitted  me  for  the  stable  quiet  of  a bed ; I recognized 
the  fitness,  and  slept  nine  solid  hours.  When  the  morning  came,  all 
weariness  was  gone,  and  I was  myself  again.  Certainly,  I am  blessed 
with  an  elastic  constitution.  The  sober  and  temperate  habits  of  my 
life  are  now  repaying  me  many  fold  ; and  the  reserve  forces  these 
habits  never  wasted,  but  rather  garnered,  now,  when  called  upon,  do 
not  fail  to  come,  and  infusing  into  my  nerves  the  readiness  and  vigor 
of  youth,  keep  my  forces  of  mind  and  body  ever  fresh — though,  save 
in  sleep,  never  resting. 

I stayed  in  my  Chamber  all  the  morning,  and  enjoyed  through  my 
open  door  the  luxuriant  vegetation  that  filled  the  Compound,  and  the 
pleasant  temperature.  In  the  afternoon  we  walked  about  the  town — 
out  upon  the  suburbs  on  the  beach,  and  from  it  viewed  the  Ocean 
dashing  itself  in  breakers  over  the  Bar  and  sending  them  in  white 
crests  along  the  Shore.  The  town  seems  to  be  below  the  water  level, 
we  ascending  toward  the  Sea  upon  the  main  Street,  which  ends  upon 
it;  but  if  below,  the  high  Shore  Line  protects  it  like  a bulwark. 

Our  good  Ship,  Dunrobin  Castle,  still  swung  at  anchor  in  the 
offing,  and  will  not  leave  till  to-morrow  ; several  other  Vessels  bore 


388 


LETTER  NO.  17. 


her  company,  and  they  and  the  curving  Shore  Line,  dominated  on 
the  South  by  a conspicuous  Bluff,  crowned  with  a handsome  Light 
House,  the  water  with  its  caps  lapping  the  whole  circumference  with 
an  unbroken  rim  of  white,  held  us  for  some  time  in  admiration. 

The  people  of  the  town — both  white  and  black — were  out  in  their 
Sunday  best:  the  former  mainly  English,  and  their  costumes  simply  a 
transfer  to  these  regions  of  European  clothing  in  cut  and  fashion. 
The  blacks  were  Kafirs  licked  somewhat  into  shape  by  civilized  influ- 
ences, but  with  much  about  them  smelling  of  the  Savagedom  from 
which  they  lately  sprang.  Generally  a strong,  fine-looking  set,  their 
woolly  hair,  sometimes  in  knots,  unkempt  as  Nature  made  it,  some- 
times plaited  into  twists  and  strands,  standing  out  all  over,  not  unlike 
Medusa  heads — substituting  worms  for  snakes  ; deprived  of  the  right 
to  carry  Assegais,  almost  without  exception,  they,  boys  and  men, 
carried  canes,  often  each  with  two,  twirling  them  like  any  other  dude; 
their  clothing  was  varied  as  their  ability  and  taste — an  old  uniform 
above,  with  bare  legs  below,  almost  invariably  without  shoes,  a shirt 
and  breeches  reaching  not  much  below  the  knee,  showing  a leg  that 
would  have  excited  the  envy  of  the  handsomest  in  the  days  of  shorts  ; 
their  ankles,  and  wrists,  and  ears,  and  nose  adorned  with  abundant 
weight  of  Barbaric  Gold  and  Silver,  and  precious  stones  and  Pinch- 
back — stepping  with  elastic  gait  and  abandon,  showing  a portion  of 
the  spirit  and  courage  which  made  them  in  days  not  long  gone,  and 
in  defence  of  their  homes,  foemen  not  unworthy  of  English  steel. 
Their  countenances,  of  our  own  Negro  type,  and  bearing,  indicate 
the  joyous  and  amiable  temper  which  seems  ever  to  belong  to  the 
Negro  Races ; but  neither  their  faces  nor  heads  betray  any  intellectu- 
ality : and  those  with  whom  I have  talked,  say  they  have  as  yet 
manifested  none.  They  make  good  servants  within  the  limits  of 
their  capacity,  but  have  to  be  directed,  having  no  ability  for  continu- 
ous or  methodic  labor,  and  seeming  to  require  a total  cessation  of  it 
for  a few  mouths  in  the  year,  when  they  give  themselves  up  to  fun 
and  idleness,  utterly  regardless  of  consequences,  either  to  their  em- 
ployers or  themselves. 

They  are  said  to  be  increasing  in  numbers,  not  diminishing.  This 
may  be  only  temporary,  until  they  take  on  fully  the  vices  of  the 
Civilization  which  dominates  them.  But  the  whites,  too,  are  increas- 
ing, normally  and  by  immigration,  for  the  climate  and  soil  of  Natal 
are  not  altogether  unsuited  to  them,  both  in  physical  and  intellectual 


X>’  URBAN— NATAL. 


389 


work ; and  now,  again,  there  comes  to  us  the  inquiry — What  the 
result  will  be  of  this  Race  Question  on  this  far  off  Coast  of  Africa? 
Indeed,  the  conquest  of  the  World  by  the  White  Race,  and  the  close 
contiguity  into  which  all  its  parts  are  brought  by  rapid  and  easy 
modes  of  locomotion,  is  hasting  the  solution  of  the  profoundest  and 
most  intricate  problem  it  has  ever  been  given  to  man  to  solve. 

We  continued  our  walk,  returning  by  another  Street,  parallel  to 
the  main,  on  which  are  located  some  excellent  private  residences. 
The  town  consists  principally  of  three  streets,  parallel  to  each  other, 
and  suburban  residences  covering  the  hills.  The  houses  are  built 
chiefly  of  brick,  stuccoed,  and  mostly  unpretentious,  of  one,  sometimes 
two  stories,  and  the  thoroughfares  are  well  Macadamized  and  paved. 
I have  spoken  of  the  Town  Hall ; just  opposite  is  a large  Square, 
ornamented  with  grass,  trees,  and  flowers,  a highly  creditable  affair. 
They  claim  a population  of  from  fifteen  to  twenty  thousand,  white 
and  black  combined,  and  the  founders  of  the  town  have  laid  it  out 
for  many  ■ more,  with  wide,  well-graded  streets — the  main  one  a 
spacious,  striking  Avenue,  threading  the  town  handsomely. 

Same  City  and  Hotel, 

Monday,  June  9,  1890. 

We,  this  morning,  prepared  for  the  utilization  of  our  time  in  Natal, 
and  our  journey  thence  through  Natal  and  onward.  We  ascertained 
the  time  of  the  trains  up  the  Country,  and  engaged  our  passage  on 
the  Steamer  for  the  City  of  Elizabeth  on  Algoa  Bay,  leaving  next 
Sunday.  This  will  give  us  a week  for  seeing  Natal — quite  enough, 
I think,  with  the  present  rapid  locomotion.  A few  years  ago,  it 
would  have  had  to  be  done  in  wagons,  drawn  by  Bullocks.  Now, 
the  Locomotive  speeds  us. 

In  the  afternoon,  we  strolled  about  the  town,  visiting  the  Shops 
and  looking  at  the  people.  I bought  a Spoon  for  our  Set,  and  had 
it  marked  in  memory  of  Natal ; and  some  Photographs,  that  you 
may  see  what  manner  of  people  the  Kafirs  are  when  “ at  home,”  in 
their  Native  huts,  and  Kraals,  and  in  their  simple  garments — just  the 
simplest  in  the  World — ‘Hn  purls  Naturalihus’'  Save  the  spangles 
in  their  ears  and  nose,  and  on  their  legs,  and  arms,  and  neck,  they  are 
as  unadorned  as  the  Arkansas  Major  with  his  shirt  collar  and  spurs. 
But  their  costume,  if  not  suited  to  the  Drawing  Room  in  this  jira- 


390 


LETTER  NO.  17. 


crack,  effeminate  age,  sets  off  their  finely -developed  anatomy  far  better 
than  Worth  could  do  with  all  his  Parisian  Art. 

Returning,  I witnessed  a street  fisticuff  between  a White  boy  and 
a Kafir  urchin — which  was  interesting,  inasmuch  as  neither  could 
hurt  the  other  much.  The  White  was  the  bigger,  and  picked  the 
quarrel.  The  Kafir  stood  up  pretty  well  for  a while,  but  his  pale- 
faced  antagonist  getting  his  head  in  chancery,  was  hitting  it  some 
vigorous  blows,  which  knocked  the  courage  out  of  the  Savage,  and 
he  pulling  out,  took  to  his  heels,  and  left  the  White  boy  victor  of 
the  field ; a fair  picture  of  what  has  been  already  done  between 
their  sires,  and  of  what  wilt  be  done  in  the  near  coming  time 
between  them  and  their  comrades,  when  they  attain  to  manhood, 
in  a far  fiercer  and  ultimately  exterminating  battle.  Can  oil  and 
water  mix? 

Yesterday,  we  saw  a striking  Bird  taking  its  flight  over  the  City, 
conspicuous  for  its  size,  and  shape,  and  color.  This  morning,  during 
the  early  hours,  I saw  two  of  them  in  the  Compound  of  the  Hotel, 
to  which  they  are  domesticated.  They  are  four  or  five  feet  high,  of 
varied  |)lumage — black,  white,  and  brown — with  long  legs  and  un- 
webbed feet,  and  equally  long  neck,  crowned  with  a brilliantly  golden- 
crested  head.  They  are  very  handsome,  and  stalk  about  among  the 
Turkeys,  Hens,  and  Ducks  with  proud  and  careless  air — the  Barn- 
yards quietly  getting  out  of  their  kingly  way.  The  Proprietor  tells 
me,  they  are  the  Kafir  Golden-Crested  Crane,  and  belong  to  him. 
Unaccustomed  to  confinement,  like  their  fellow-Kafir  man,  they 
mainly  live  abroad  or  upon  the  wing,  coming  at  hours  daily  to  be 
fed.  This  afternoon,  we  saw  one  of  them  upon  the  Cupola  of  the 
Court  House,  where  he  always  spends  the  night ; maybe,  thinking 
he  will  be  safe  upon  the  Court  of  Justice,  not  having  yet  learned,  like 
his  congeners,  that  “ the  White  man  is  very  onsartin.”  It  is  no  easy 
matter  for  the  aforesaid  White  man  to  keep  the  Scales  of  Justice  well 
poised  in  the  Temple  below,  how  can  he  upon  its  roof,  where  the 
wandering,  shaky  winds  furnish  an  excuse  for  their  uneven  balance? 
Our  Golden-Crested  friend  had  better  look  out. 

It  rained  last  night  and  this  morning,  settling  the  dust  and 
cleaning  up  the  Sky,  and  making  the  atmosphere  a luxury  to 
breathe. 


PIETEBMABITZB  UBG— NATAL. 


391 


Pietermaritzburg,  Natal, 

Imperial  Hotel, 

Tuesday,  June  10,  1890. 

You  see  from  the  heading  of  this  day’s  story,  that  I am  at  the 
Capital  of  the  Colony,  seventy  and  one-fourth  miles  from  D’Urban. 

We  stored  our  heavy  baggage  at  the  Belgrave  Hotel,  and  with  our 
Satchels  started  for  the  Town  these  pages  will  hurriedly  tell  you  of. 
We  walked  to  the  Station,  and  at  eleven  o’clock  were  on  the  Road  to 
this  City.  It  is  narrow  gauge,  but  well  built,  and  the  cars  in  Coach 
style,  comfortable.  We  had  a whole  compartment  to  ourselves,  and 
had  a fine  opportunity  of  observing  the  Country  whilst  we  travelled. 

I have  obtained  several  Maps  of  South  Africa,  and  will  send  you 
and  Charles  and  Taylor  one  each,  that  you  may  follow  me  on  all  my 
inland  Excursions  readily.  They  are  published  by  the  Railroad  and 
Steamship  Companies,  and  have  the  routes  distinctly  marked. 

Continuously  moving  and  ascending,  we  reached  here  at  four  and 
a-half  o’clock  in  the  afternoon  ; the  Proprietor  of  the  Belgrave  had 
telegraphed  to  this  Hotel  for  Rooms,  taking  this  precaution  on  account 
of  the  volume  of  travel  which  seems  to  be  tiding  everywhere  through 
the  Country.  Response  came  that  we  could  be  accommodated.  But, 
though  we  were  met  at  the  Station  on  our  arrival,  and  brought  here 
in  a Carriage  without  trouble  or  inconvenience,  the  Landlady,  with 
much  embarrassment,  said  she  only  had  one  Room — the  gentleman 
who  was  to  have  vacated  was  detained,  but  she  would  fix  me  up 
comfortably  in  the  Drawing  Room ; of  course,  I,  without  demur, 
surrendered  the  Chamber  to  my  Friends,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Nead.  I 
have  no  reason  to  complain  of  my  Landlady,  for  the  Room  was 
nicely  fitted  up  with  a bed,  and,  doubtless,  I fared  the  better  for  the 
apparent  contretemps,  for  I am  quite  sure  I had  the  best  quarters  in 
the  Hotel,  the  Room  being  large  and  handsomely  furnished. 

Our  ride  was  one  of  the  most  beautiful  and  interesting  of  my 
travel  experience.  Natal  has  a fine  reputation  both  for  Country  and 
climate — altogether  the  best  in  South  Africa ; and  I have  not  been 
disappointed.  Pietermaritzburg  is,  I am  informed,  two  thousand  feet 
above  the  Sea,  and  the  Road  reaches  it  by  constant  ascent,  rounding 
with  many  gradients  the  succession  of  hills  and  valleys  into  which 
the  whole  region  is  moulded.  The  contour  is  very  singular;  just  as 


392 


LETTER  NO.  17. 


if,  in  liquid  state,  it  had  rolled  in  enormous  billows  like  the  Ocean, 
and  in  the  hour  of  its  most  tumultuous  action,  had  been  arrested  : not 
in  peaks,  as  if  driven  by  fierce  Volcanic  forces,  but  rounded  into 
graceful  curves,  of  violent  fluid  motion,  sinking  into  rest. 

Sometimes  these  hills  and  valleys  would  be  adorned  with  trees;  but 
taking  the  whole  reach  of  Country,  I would  call  it  rather  void  of 
forests.  For  many  miles  after  leaving  the  City  these  heights  are 
crowned  with  homes — generally  simple  verandahed  one-story  houses, 
built  of  brick  or  frame,  sheathed  with  corrugated  iron — sometimes 
quite  handsome  Villas,  but  always  with  some  adornment  of  trees  and 
flowers.  On  the  lower  ground.  Banana  and  Orange  Groves  abounded. 
The  former,  I thought,  larger  and  more  numerous  than  I have  ever 
seen  elsewhere — and  now  and  then  fields  of  Sugar  Cane;  on  the 
higher  grounds,  ascending,  we  passed  through  large  areas  of  Wheat 
and  Oats  for  Winter  forage — but  larger  still  of  Indian  Corn — called 
Mealies — and  when  not  cultivated,  the  rounded  hills  and  valleys, 
covered  with  grass,  where  many  Cattle  I’anged. 

On  either  hand  we  passed  the  native  Kraals  or  Villages — a few 
Huts  round  about  an  enclosed  space  where  they  herd  their  stock — 
the  fence  built  of  stone  or  sticks,  of  a very  unsubstantial  and  tempo- 
rary character.  The  Huts  are  of  various  shapes  and  sizes,  but  gener- 
ally round  like  a bisected  orange : the  frame,  of  Withe  or  Bamboo, 
filled  in  or  thatched  with  straw  or  grass,  not  an  inartistic  affair,  with 
no  opening  save  a low  round  door,  about  thi-ee  feet  high  by  two, 
through  which,  to  gain  an  entrance,  the  occupant  must  crawl.  Some 
of  my  Photographs  will  give  you  a clear  idea  of  their  Architecture. 

Though  the  Kafirs  are  said  to  be  very  numerous  and  wonderfully 
able-bodied,  I observed  most  of  the  operatives  on  the  road  and  in 
the  field  are  imported  Hindoo  Coolies ; the  poor,  intellectually-un- 
developed  Kafir  cannot  be  relied  upon  for  continuous  work  : after  a 
spasmodic  effort  he  must  rest  his  sturdy  corpus,  and  let  the  work,  for 
ought  he  cares,  go  to  I’ot.  The  spindling,  but  developed  Indian  comes 
thousands  of  miles  from  his  own  home,  and  ousts  the  burly  Savage 
from  the  field  of  Labor. 

For  many  miles  we  had,  moving  upon  higher  and  higher  ground, 
a magnificent  panorama  opening  of  Land  and  Sea.  The  wonderfully 
beautiful  and  picturesque  outlines  of  the  Country,  now  assuming 
Oval,  now  Conical,  now  Mesa  shapes,  invited  our  admiration ; whilst 
far  beyond,  the  Ocean  lay,  sweeping  to  the  limits  of  the  human  vision. 


PIETEBMABITZB  UBG—NA  TAL. 


393 


by  refraction  of  the  atmosphere  producing  an  optical  illusion  which 
made  the  surface  seem  to  rise,  along  the  Horizon,  into  a mountain- 
height  high  as  that  on  which  we  travelled,  the  Sea  a hollow  concave, 
much  like  that  of  which  I told  you  on  my  First  Tonr,  when  travel- 
ling in  Hawaii. 

But  few  Birds  enlivened  the  Landscape,  a flock  or  two  of  Linnets, 
and  one  or  two  sporadic  Birds,  white  and  black,  about  half  the  size 
of  a Robin,  and  a quite  large  flock  of  Crows,  the  first  I have  seen, 
flapping  across  our  track  and  reminding  me  of  the  myriads  we  have 
at  home,  when  going  out  on  their  daily  forage,  or  coming  back  to 
roost. 

On  our  arrival  at  the  Hotel,  and  taking  a cup  of  Tea,  we  went  out 
and  wandered  about  till  dark.  The  town  was  founded  by  the  Boers, 
and  named  after  Pieter  Retief  and  Gerhardus  Maritz,  two  of  their 
eminent  men.  It  is  regularly  and  well  laid  out  in  parallel  and  wide 
streets,  with  a large  open  area  in  the  centre  called  the  Market  Square, 
on  which  the  Post  Ofiice  fronts,  in  whose  enclosure  there  is  a Marble 
Monument  to  those  who  fell  in  the  Zulu  War.  On  the  Market 
Square,  also,  stands  the  Police  Station  and  the  Market  House,  both 
excellent  brick  structures ; and  not  far  off,  fronting  the  street  which 
bounds  one  side  of  the  Square,  stands  the  Legislative  Hall,  with  lofty 
Corinthian  Columns.  The  City’s  site  is  admirable : quite  high  and 
conspicuous,  whilst  about  it  higher  hills  rise,  which  in  some  places 
loom  into  Mountains.  It  contains,  I am  told,  twelve  or  fifteen 
thousand  peo])le — White,  Kafir,  and  Cooley.  The  houses  are  mainly 
of  brick  or  stuccoed,  verandahed,  one  story,  and  generally,  save  the 
business  ones,  with  ornamented  yards  around  them. 

Whilst  walking,  I saw  three  Kafir  Girls,  with  baskets  of  fruit 
upon  their  heads  for  sale,  and  a crowd  of  white  urchins  around  them, 
tipping  their  baskets  and  amusing  themselves  with  their  jewelry ; 
the  girls  meantime  annoyed  and  defending  themselves  the  best  they 
could.  Another  straw  to  show  the  current  of  the  wind. 

At  eight  o’clock,  hearing  the  Legislature  would  be  in  Session,  I 
went  to  see  it.  The  Hall  is  an  excellent  one,  and  well  fitted  up,  the 
members  having  cushioned  high-back  chaii’s,  arranged  behind  four 
rows  of  desks,  extending  from  the  Speaker,  two  on  either  side ; the 
open  space  in  front  occupied  by  the  Officers  of  the  House.  It  con- 
sists of  thirty  members,  twenty-three  of  whom  are  elected,  the  others 
are  Officers  of  the  Government  and  ex  officio  members ; the  electors 


394 


LETTER  NO.  17. 


are  with  property  qualification.  The  body  is  highly  respectable  in 
appearance  and  the  pi’oceedings  dignified.  Nothing  of  importance 
was  transacted,  and  soon  getting  tired,  I came  home,  and  found  better 
occupation  in  the  companionship  of  Sleep. 

Same  City  and  Hotel, 

Wednesday,  June  11,  1890. 

Desiring  to  visit  a Kraal,  our  Landlady  introduced  me  to  Mr. 
Smith,  a boarder  at  the  Hotel  and  a member  of  the  Legislative 
Assembly,  who,  she  said,  could  give  me  the  information  I desired. 
He  did  so  cheerfully,  and  said  he  lived  four  miles  from  town,  and 
near  his  home  were  several — one  especially  good,  two  miles  further 
on,  and  instructed  Joe,  the  Negro  Driver,  how  to  get  there.  Joe, 
though  he  speaks  the  Kafir  tongue,  says  he  is  not  of  them ; his  father 
was  a slave  and  came  to  Pietermaritzburg,  where  Joe  was  born — 
Slavery  in  the  Colonies  of  England  having  then  been  abolished.  Joe 
is  a good  fellow,  and  reminded  me  much  of  our  old  servant  Mack ; 
and  made  us  a valuable  driver  and  guide  to-day. 

I had  a good  deal  of  talk  with  Mr.  Smith  and  another  member  of 
the  Legislature,  to  whom  he  introduced  me,  I think  by  the  name  of 
Young.  We  talked  about  the  future  of  the  Kafir  ; I said,  I observed 
that  most  of  the  employees  on  the  Roads  and  in  the  fields  were  Indian 
Coolies.  He  replied,  that  this  was  true ; tlie  Kafir  was  indolent  and 
lazy,  and  worked  only  under  the  compulsion  of  necessity,  and  he  had 
no  hope  of  their  improvement;  he  did  not  think  it  was  in  them.  And 
in  the  progress  of  events,  maybe  in  his  lifetime,  the  struggle  between 
them  and  the  Whites  would  come,  and  the  unfittest  would  be  swept 
away.  He  said  the  soil  of  Natal  was  not  all  equal  to  what  it  often 
seemed  ; some  of  that  I saw  was  very  fine — some  thin  ; nor  was  the 
climate  always  so  genial  as  that  I now  experienced.  When  the  Sum- 
mer came,  the  heat  was  often  great — like  the  breath  of  a Sirocco.  But 
all  in  all.  Natal,  he  thought,  a fine,  healthful  Country.  He  is  a native 
of  Aberdeen,  Scotland,  and  has  been  in  South  Africa  more  than  forty 
years,  a big,  healthy  Scotchman.  But  I have  not  time  to  detail  the 
conversation  I had  with  him  and  his  colleague,  of  much  interest  and 
instruction  to  me. 

After  Breakfast,  we  visited  the  Market,  and  were  struck  with  the 
fine  vegetables  and  their  variety  exposed  for  sale — the  same  we  raise 


PIETEBMARITZBUEG— KAFIR  KRAAL. 


395 


in  our  Gardens — Cabbage,  Turnips,  Beets,  Cauliflower,  Celery,  Pota- 
toes, Carrots,  &c.  We,  also,  observed  the  Ox  Wagons,  some  of  which 
had  from  twelve  to  twenty  Oxen  ; it  seemed  to  me,  though  the  ani- 
mals were  not  large,  an  extravagant  waste  of  force.  Such  were  the 
vehicles  with  which,  a short  time  since,  the  transfer  of  passengers  and 
produce  was  made  through  South  Africa.  A man  or  boy  conducts  the 
leaders  by  a rope ; the  driver  urges  them  with  a long  whip-handle, 
and  thong  from  thirty  to  forty  feet.  Now,  the  Rail  and  Coaches 
drawn  by  horses  have  superseded  all  such  slow  and  cumbrous  work. 

Returning  to  the  Hotel  we  found  Joe  with  his  Carriage  ready  for 
us — a two-horse,  four-seated  affaii-,  with  falling  top,  admirably  suited 
for  our  purposes.  His  horses  were  good,  and  he  soon  brought  us, 
over  a good  road,  to  the  object  of  our  jaunt — the  Kafir  Kraal.  After 
passing  Mr.  Smith’s  House,  we  saw  it  in  the  distance  across  the 
Country,  situated  in  an  open  field  : eight  or  ten  circular  huts,  such  as 
I have  described,  surrounding  a place  enclosed  by  a stone  fence,  in 
which  tlieir  Cattle  w^ere  gathered ; their  Goats  were  enclosed  in  a 
wicker  frame  not  unlike  their  huts. 

We  saw  around  about,  standing  or  squatting  in  the  dust  and  sun, 
a number  of  almost  naked  Kafirs — men,  women,  and  children.  We 
wanted  to  see  into  their  habitations,  which  we  on  near  inspection 
found  were  well  and  firmly  constructed  of  withes,  over  which  straw 
or  long  grass  was  thatched  or  woven  with  strong  rope  of  the  same 
material,  or  after  being  thatched  a net  of  rope  spread  over  it  to  keep 
it  tight  and  close,  making  it  seemingly  impervious  to  the  weather. 
Joe  said  they  had  Milk  and  Beer  to  sell — the  latter  made  from 
Mealies  or  Indian  Corn.  To  introduce  ourselves,  I requested  Joe  to 
tell  them  we  w’anted  some  Beer;  which  one,  who  seemed  to  be  the 
head  man,  ordered  to  be  brought.  They  brought  it  in  a large  tin 
pan  from  one  of  the  huts,  together  with  a glass,  all  looking  very 
dirty.  I drank  some,  which  tasted  much  like  fresh  Mexican  Pulque, 
and  not  unlike  it  in  its  milky,  dusky-white  appearance.  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  Nead  could  not  summon  courage  to  follow  my  example;  where- 
upon I doled  it  out  by  the  glassfull  to  Joe,  who  enjoyed  it  hugely, 
and  thereupon  soon  became  like  the  Fat  Boy  in  Pickwick,  and  on 
our  journey  back  kept  me  busy  stirring  him  up  to  keep  him  in  the 
Road. 

Meanwhile,  the  Kafirs  gathered  confidence,  and  the  women  came 
out  and  showed  us  themselves  and  their  scant  costume,  and  the  chil- 


396 


LETTER  NO.  17. 


dren,  without  a stitch  of  clothing,  seemed  happy  in  their  freedom  and 
enjoyed  our  company.  The  small  door-way  was  the  only  opening 
the  mansions  had,  and  I got  upon  my  knees  and,  crawling  in, 
had  an  ample  survey  of  the  interior  and  contents.  The  floor  was 
earth  and  the  framework  was  supported  by  four  or  five  upright  posts ; 
they  had  no  chairs,  nor  tables,  nor  furniture  of  any  sort,  and  the 
wretchedly  cheerless  scene  was  only  relieved  by  the  reflection,  that 
housekeeping  was  an  easy  thing — no  sweeping,  no  dusting,  no  setting 
to  I’ights  of  furniture,  no  brushing  away  of  crumbs,  no  dressing  and 
undressing,  simply  lying  down  and  getting  up,  with  the  coming  night 
and  day,  taking  no  thought  of  the  morrow,  and  toiling  and  spinning 
not,  but  in  no  particular  whatsoever  resembling  Solomon  or  the  Lily. 
Here  is  the  sure  enough  happiness  and  contentment  of  Savage  Life,  of 
which  Philosophers  write  and  talk,  with  none  of  the  bothers  of  Civili- 
zation ; and  they  certainly  seemed  to  be  free  from  care  and  very  happy. 

I paid  the  man  for  his  Beer  and  he  bowed  thankfully.  Mr.  Nead 
gave  an  old  woman  a Shilling,  and  she  jumped  gleefully  around  and 
held  it  in  the  air  and  whirled  like  a Dervish,  and,  half  naked  and 
hideously  ugly  and  shriveled,  performed  evolutions  and  pronounced 
invocations  that  would  have  done  credit  to  Shakespeare’s  Witches  in 
Macbeth  ; and  the  young  women  and  men  and  children  joined  in 
laughing  at  the  old  woman’s  joyfulness.  And  then  we  came  away, 
quite  satisfied  that  our  Excursion  had  given  us  an  insight  into  the 
Kafir  life,  not  promising  for  their  future,  in  such  close  contact  with 
men  and  things  clean  out  of  harmony. 

Joe  says  the  men  have  wives  in  proportion  to  their  ability  to  buy 
them — at  the  rate  of  eleven  cows  per  wife.  A wife  is  a valuable 
piece  of  property : for  the  women  do  the  work  and  their  honoi'able 
Lords  look  on  and  admire.  This  we  observed  upon  the  road  and 
streets,  where  they  carried  the  burdens  and  the  men  walked  before, 
and  chatted  and  twirled  the  regulation  cane. 

We  returned  in  time  for  Lunch,  and  in  the  afternoon  walked  out 
and  finished  Pietermaritzburg.  I bought  a Kafir  Snutf  Box — a kind 
of  gourd,  ornamented  with  brass  wire — quite  the  best  piece  of  Kafir 
workmanship  I have  seen. 

Like  the  universal  Negro  Race  they  are  a joyous  set — dancing  on 
the  streets  singly  or  in  squads.  Does  it  not  appear  to  be  a shame, 
that  all  this  lightness  of  heart  should  be  crushed  out  by  the  Jugger- 
naut of  our  Civilization  ? 


PIETERMARITZBURG  TO  LADYSMITH. 


397 


Ladysmith,  Natal,  Railway  Hotel, 

Thursday,  June  12,  1890. 

Leaving  Pietermaritzburg  at  forty  minutes  past  eight,  after  an 
early  Breakfast,  we  reached  the  place  which  heads  this  at  five  in  the 
afternoon,  by  a narrow  gauge  Railway — a distance  of  one  hundred 
and  nineteen  miles. 

The  Road  is  ascending  nearly  the  whole  travel,  by  a circuitous 
route,  rounding  the  hills,  and  following  the  valleys  and  streams  much 
in  the  same  manner  I have  described  that  from  D’Urban  to  Pieter- 
maritzburg. But  whilst  an  almost  continuous  climb,  and  presenting 
much  of  interest  by  the  way,  in  the  contour  of  the  Country  through 
which  we  passed  and  the  more  distant  views,  it  has  not  the  command- 
ing beauty  which  that  spread  out  for  our  enjoyment. 

The  soil  evidently  was  much  thinner,  and  the  hills  and  Mountains 
instead  of  being  gracefully  rounded  with  grass-grown  summits,  were 
often  of  fixed  rock  or  scattered  fragments  and  boulders,  absolutely 
beyond  the  reach  of  tillage.  The  cultivation  consequently  diminished 
as  we  advanced,  though  there  was  still  considerable  Indian  Corn  and 
Oats  for  forage,  and  Kafir  Corn — a grain  resembling  our  Buckwheat, 
though  of  growth  entirely  different ; more  like  spindling  Indian  Corn 
or  Maize.  Agricnltnral  products  diminishing.  Pastoral  increased, 
and  more  numerous  and  large  herds  of  Cattle,  and  Sheep,  and  Goats 
appeared.  The  Cattle  are  of  the  same  breed  all  over  the  Colony — 
now  and  then  a streak  of  the  East  Indian  Bullock,  rai-ely  of  the 
Buffalo,  many  among  them  black  like  the  Scotch  Highland,  and 
though  much  smaller,  resembling  in  shape  our  Texas  cattle,  and  with 
the  same  enormous  lateral  reach  of  horns.  The  Goats  were  of  the 
Angora  stock,  and  all.  Cattle,  Sheep,  and  Goats,  looked  well,  without 
being  over  fat. 

The  grass  is  now  sere  and  yellow  in  these  high  regions,  this  being 
the  dry  Season,  which  is  regarded  as  lasting  from  April  to  August. 
The  grass  when  dry  and  yellow  is  not  nutritious  like  our  Buffalo  and 
Bunch  of  the  Western  Plains,  and  consequently  they  now  burn  great 
areas  of  it,  which  with  the  coming  of  their  Spring,  beginning  in  Sep- 
tember, will  cover  the  whole  Country  with  a carpet  of  green,  both 
nutritious  and  beautiful.  Now  it  is  black  with  the  ashes  of  the  fires. 


398 


LETTER  NO.  17. 


The  Country  is  naturally  devoid  of  timber,  probably  like  our 
Prairies,  the  result  of  the  fires,  preventing  the  survival  of  young 
gi’owths ; but  hundreds  of  thousands  of  trees  have  been  jilanted, 
principally  the  Eucalyptus  or  Blue  Gum  of  California,  not  only 
around  the  homes,  but  in  groves  and  over  large  areas,  which,  grow- 
ing rapidly,  now'  adorn  great  ranges,  like  Oases. 

Yesterday,  when  riding  to  the  Kraal,  I observed  numerous  Ant 
Hills,  of  size  varying  from  a foot  in  height  to  three  or  four.  I got 
out  of  the  Carriage  and  kicked  the  top  or  a portion  off  one  or  two, 
but  observed  no  life  within,  and  thought  probably  the  inmates  had 
retired  lower  into  Winter  quarters.  To-day  the  fields  were  covered 
with  thousands  of  them,  all  of  the  same  architectural  build — oval  in 
shape,  though  of  various  sizes,  and  similar  in  form  to  the  Kafir  Huts 
in  the  Kraals,  of  which  I told  you.  Maybe  the  Savage  learned  how 
to  build  his  habitation  from  the  industrious  insect.  In  various 
Countries,  I have  seen  the  little  creatures’  homes  and  work ; but 
nowhere  in  the  World  have  I seen  such  enormous  numbers — cover- 
ing square  miles.  I do  not  know  how  they  affect  vegetation,  or  the 
productive  value  of  the  land  they  thus  occupy.  I will  try  to  learn. 

Getting  farther  into  the  interior,  the  Kraals  of  the  Natives  increased 
in  number,  but  always  of  the  style  of  the  one  we  visited;  and  the 
Kafirs  themselves  presented  the  same  appearance,  running  or  loung- 
ing around,  half  naked,  or  working  maybe;  and  so  joyous  and  happy 
that  purple  and  fine  linen  would  not  add  to  their  contentment. 

When  we  had  progressed  probably  tw^enty  or  thirty  miles,  the  fine 
Drakenberg  Range  of  Mountains,  patched  with  snow,  came  in  view, 
bounding  Natal’s  Western  boi’ders,  and  continued  off  and  on  till  we 
reached  Ladysmith  ; now  and  then  shut  out  by  intervening  Moun- 
tains. They  are  the  Watershed  where  the  great  Orange  and  Vaal 
Rivers  find  their  source,  and  drain  South  Africa’s  Western  Water- 
shed into  the  Atlantic  Ocean.  Their  Eastern  front  is  more  precipi- 
tous, and  from  a much  smaller  shed  sends  numerous  Rivers  through 
Natal,  none  of  which  are  navigable ; across  or  along  several  of  them 
the  Railway  found  its  course  to-day.  The  Drakenberg  are  fi’om  six 
to  eight  thousand  feet  in  height — reaching,  I believe,  ten  in  several 
summits.  And  its,  in  sections,  bulky  and  pronounced  and  jagged 
outlines  added  much  to  the  scenic  import  of  our  ride. 

Several  hours  before  reaching  here  we  passed  Estcourt,  a Station 
on  the  Road  and  now  a Military  Post,  three  thousand  nine  hundred 


LADYSMITH. 


399 


feet  above  the  Sea — Ladysmith  is,  probably,  more  than  four  thousand. 
I have  no  means  of  ascertaining  its  exact  elevation  ; certainly,  we  are 
high,  for  when  the  Sun  took  himself  away,  the  atmosphere  recognized 
its  altitude  by  becoming  cool,  if  not  chilly. 

This  is  not  the  terminus  of  the  Road  ; it  extends  to  New  Castle, 
seventy-nine  miles  beyond.  We  thought  of  going  there,  but  the  trains, 
both  to  and  fro,  run  in  the  night-time,  and,  of  course,  shut  out  the 
Country — the  only  inducement  for  the  trip.  Its  name  implies  its 
resources ; and  there  and  in  the  vicinity  are  valuable  deposits  of  bitu- 
minous Coal,  rivalling  in  quality,  one  of  the  Officers  of  the  Road 
told  me,  the  finest  in  the  World.  Beyond  the  Tiigela  River,  a little 
fui’ther,  lies  the  famous  Zululand. 

Our  Landlady  in  Pietermaritzburg  telegraphed  for  Rooms  for  us, 
and  when  we  arrived,  the  Rooms  were  ready.  The  Hotel  is,  happily, 
near  the  Station,  and  though  only  a short  while  before  dark,  for  dai’k 
comes  here,  at  this  Season,  before  six,  we  had  time  to  pedestrianize 
the  town,  which  is  young  and  green,  though  it  spreads  itself  over 
wide  and  regular  streets,  with  the  airs  of  an  older  and  grander 
place.  But  with  all  her  airs,  she  has  not  a single  thing  which 
will  fill  a line  of  the  veracious  traveller’s  Chronicle.  The  Hotel 
is  good  and  comfortable  enough. 

D’Ueban,  Natal,  Imperial  Hotel, 

Friday,  June  13,  1890. 

The  night  was  cool  at  Ladysmith,  and  towards  morning  it  rained 
slightly,  settling  the  dust,  and  making  things  fresher.  To-day,  like 
every  day  of  this  jaunt  from  D’Urban,  has  been  perfection  for  travel- 
ling in  these  Regions : the  Sky  without  a cloud,  and  the  atmo.sphere 
clear  and  brilliant  in  an  extraordinary  degree.  Certainly,  I have  hit 
the  proper  Season  to  visit  Natal. 

I have  found  out  something  concerning  the  Ants.  My  informants 
tell  me,  they  are  of  various  colors,  red,  black,  and  white ; the  white 
are  of  the  same  noxious  species  that  destroy  lumber,  and  luxuriate  in 
eating  whatever  is  constructed  of  wood.  But  they  do  no  harm  to 
the  lands,  either  for  agriculture  or  pasturage.  Indeed,  for  the  former, 
do  good,  acting  like  diminutive  ploughs  in  pulverizing  the  soil,  and 
with  the  same  efficacy  as  the  tiny  ploughshare  of  the  frost. 


400 


LETTER  NO.  17. 


I try  to  secure  something  in  every  Country  characteristic  of  its 
people.  I think  I told  you,  I got  a whale-bone  carved  Club  in  New 
Zealand,  the  weapon  of  the  Mahori ; a Boomerang  and  a Throwing 
Stick  in  Australia,  the  most  peculiar  products  of  its  Aborigines ; the 
other  day  I bought  an  Assegai,  the  celebrated  spear  of  the  Kafir,  with 
which  he  made  himself  famous  when  he  defended  his  Kraals  from 
the  White  invader,  and  with  which  he  killed  the  Prince  Imperial  of 
Fi’ance  in  Zululand  ; and  to-day  I bought  a Club,  such  as  they  carried 
when  they  fought  for  their  Country : ovei’come,  poor  creatures,  in  the 
effort,  and  not  being  allowed,  by  his  conqueror,  to  carry  an  Assegai, 
with  some  faint  remembrance  of  his  days  of  freedom,  he  now  totes 
lightly,  whether  on  work  or  pleasure  bent,  sticks  or  canes — one  or 
more — to  represent  his  Assegai,  and,  now  and  then,  a club,  like  that 
his  fathers  or  himself  bore  in  the  fruitless  struggle  against  firearms. 
They  are  of  various  makes — some  like  what  we  would  call  a club, 
bulging  towards  the  end;  some  simple  sticks,  with  a circular  plate 
on  the  end  of  heavy  wood ; some  terminating  in  a ball — a dangerous 
thing  to  the  head  of  an  adversary  in  close  engagement;  one  of  the 
latter  1 bought  from  a Kafir  on  the  street  in  Ladysmith,  and  will 
take  it  home  for  our  curiosity  shop. 

To-day,  in  coming  down,  I saw  a flock  of  Buzzards,  not  equal  to 
ours  in  size,  but  their  rivals  in  lofty,  graceful  flight — gathering  to 
the  carcass  with  the  same  aerial  circuits,  which  make  us  forget  their 
foul  pursuit,  in  the  realm  of  the  beautiful  in  motion,  to  which  their 
pinions  carry  us.  And  more  crows,  too,  came  along,  to  take  us,  in 
memory,  home. 

Ladysmith  is  distant  from  here  one  hundred  and  eighty-nine  and 
one-fourth  miles.  We  left  there  at  half-past  eight  in  the  morning,  and 
reached  D’Urban  at  eleven  o’clock  at  night — nearly  fifteen  hours — 
a long  and  fatiguing  ride ; longer  in  time  than  distance.  Our  Pro- 
prietor met  us  at  the  Station  with  a Carriage,  and  we  were  soon  fixed 
in  our  Rooms,  after  taking  a Supper  he  had  ready  prepared.  I have 
said  nothing  of  the  Country  ; a simple  reverse  view  of  that  about 
which  I wrote,  going  up.  But,  altogether,  our  jaunt  into  Natal  was 
pleasant  every  way,  and  profitable.  I enjoyed  again  the  Drakenberg 
Mountain  Range ; but  the  coming  on  of  night  at  Pietermaritzburg 
shut  out  the  lovely  Landscapes  thence,  and  the  glorious  vision  of 
the  Sea. 


n URBAN  TO  VERVLAM. 


401 


Same  City  and  Hotel, 

Satihrday,  June  14,  1890. 

We  expected  to  have  sailed  to-morrow  for  Port  Elizabeth  ; but 
learned  that  the  Steamer’s  departure  had  been  postponed  till  Monday. 
You  observe  they  are  never  on  time  out  here,  entailing  much  loss  of 
it  upon  the  traveller. 

Having  the  day  to  myself,  I determined  to  utilize  it  by  running 
out  on  the  Rail  to  Verulam  ; your  Map  will  show  you,  a small  place 
North  of  D’Urban.  My  trip  of  the  last  few  days  took  me  into  the 
high  lands  of  the  Interior ; I wished,  by  this,  to  see  those  of  the  low 
and  near  the  Coast.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Nead  wanted  rest  and  did  not  go. 

The  distance  is  twenty  miles,  and  took,  going  and  coming,  from 
eleven  till  three  o’clock.  I did  not  linger  there,  the  place  itself  being 
yet  a while  only  a terminus,  the  intervening  Country  being  the  in- 
ducement of  the  trip,  and  it  repaid  me.  The  region  and  its  products 
pi’esent  a Tropic  scene.  The  Landscape  is  not  flat,  as  I supposed 
it  would  be  thus  near  the  Sea,  but  rolling — sometimes  violently — 
both  the  high  and  low  grounds  cultivated  almost  entirely  in  Sugar ; 
which  at  various  stages  of  its  growth  seemed  to  be  of  excellent  quality. 
Where  not  cultivated,  the  lands  were  luxuriant  in  trees  and  tangled 
Tropic  growths  of  shrubs  and  flowers ; though,  you  observe,  Natal  is 
below  the  South  Tropic  Line,  among  the  growths  I noticed  a species  of 
Cactus,  shaped,  with  bulky  trunk  and  numerous  tapering  branches, 
not  unlike  in  symmetry  a well-formed  Ash — the  most  graceful  and 
beautiful  thing  of  the  Cactus  kind  I ever  saw.  A Lady  on  the  train 
told  me,  it  is  appropriately  called  the  Tree  Cactus;  and  in  the  Spring — 
our  Autumn — is  covered  with  a red  bloom,  and  turns  its  bare  arms 
into  a perfect  blaze  of  loveliness. 

There  were  residences,  simple  Country  homes,  and  pretentious 
Villas  crowning  some  of  the  hill  tops,  and  Indian-Cooley  and  Kafir 
huts,  in  groups  and  Ki’aals,  here  and  there  along  the  entire  line — the 
Indian  more  numerous  than  the  Kafir.  The  poor  Kaflr,  with  his 
fine  physique  and  knotty,  brainless  head,  is  completely  upset  by  the 
forms  and  entanglements  of  Civilization.  Our  Aryan  brother  comes 
with  his  little  body  and  big  head  and  flts  in  anywhere,  ousting  the 
bulky  Kafir  of  his  preserves.  The  stranger  from  the  East  and  from 
the  West  is  driving  the  helpless  Savage  to  the  wall  in  his  own 
26 


402 


LETTER  NO.  17. 


Country.  The  Hindoo,  I noticed,  is  the  laborer  in  the  field,  and  fills 
all  the  subordinate  places  on  the  Railroad,  and  keeps  the  little  stores 
and  shops.  The  Kafir  could  knock  him  out  with  fists — the  little 
Hindoo  beats  him  with  the  head. 

I had  frequent  talks  with  the  Officials  and  others  on  the  train,  and 
at  the  Stations ; they  say  the  Kafir  is  not  the  only  one  who  suffers 
by  the  importation  of  the  Cooley ; the  White  man,  unable  to  organ- 
ize the  Negro  into  efficient  laborers,  brought  the  Hindoo  to  take  his 
place,  and  now  complains  that  he  is  filling  the  field  of  labor  with 
such  efficiency,  in  every  department,  that  the  White  man  is  being 
clean  driven  from  the  Country.  White  men,  I observe,  are  the  Loco- 
motive Drivers,  the  Conductors,  the  Station  Masters,  and  the  Ticket 
Agents,  and  Guards — all  the  other  employees  are  Hindoos.  My 
informants  tell  me  there  is  no  place  out  here  for  the  White  Laborer : 
the  intelligent  and  more  economical  Indian  cuts  him  out.  There  are 
yet  scarce  any  Chinamen ; I told  him  to  wait  a while  till  John  came 
and  took  his  nip,  and  the  disinterested  and  unselfish  Anglo-Saxon 
would  pass  Laws  to  keep  or  drive  the  developed  and  dangerous  Con- 
fuciaus  and  Hindoos  from  the  land  because  of  obnoxious  elements  to 
their  Civilization,  and  put  the  poor  Kafirs  under  the  ground,  because 
cumberers  of  it,  unless  he  could  be  drilled  to  work. 

I had  time  at  Verulam  to  look  around  a little  and  take  Lunch  and 
chat  a while  with  the  people  I met  there.  It  is  a nice  Village,  on 
high  ground,  and  the  Hotel  near  the  Station — the  best-looking  and 
best-kept  of  any  I have  come  across  since  leaving  - Sydney ; which 
opinion  I put  into  information  for  the  benefit  of  the  Landlord,  and 
it  gave  him  pleasure.  Mrs.  Nead  was  very  anxious  to  have  a Kafir 
Club,  and  not  able  to  secure  one,  I bought  an  excellent  specimen  from 
a Kafir  and  made  her  a present  of  it. 

Retui’iiing,  I again  enjoyed  the  Country  in  reverse.  We  met  a 
train  coming  out,  of  numerous  cars  of  every  class ; it  being  Saturday 
Evening,  crowds  were  going  to  spend  Sunday  at  their  Villas,  their 
Country  residences,  their  Huts,  their  Kraals,  each  according  to  his 
kind — the  Kafirs  and  Cooleys  crowded  like  Sardines  in  a box.  Near 
the  town  we  crossed  the  wide  bed  of  the  Umgeni  River,  now  nearly 
dry,  which  flows  on  the  North  side  into  the  Indian  Ocean — but  evi- 
dently in  the  rainy  season  a big  and  roaring  stream,  when  the  floods 
come  tumbling  from  the  uplands.  Far  off  down  its  open  channel  we 
saw  the  smooth  waters  of  the  Ocean.  On  the  South  side  is  the  Bay 


D’  URBAN. 


403 


of  Natal,  up  which  the  Tug  brought  us  when  we  crossed  the  Bar 
and  landed.  The  City  of  D’Urban  is  often  called  Port  Natal. 
Into  this  Bay  the  Umlazi  River  flows,  but  of  no  value  for  navi- 
gation. I think  I have  remarked,  that  owing  to  the  small  Water- 
shed on  the  East  side  of  the  Mountain,  none  of  the  Rivers  of 
Natal,  though  numerous,  are  navigable:  they  are  either  shallow 
streams  or  turbulent  torrents. 

In  the  afternoon,  we  hired  the  Proprietor’s  two-horse  Carriage  and 
visited  the  suburbs — the  West  End  of  D’Urban,  where  the  Aris- 
tocracy reside,  along  the  Berea  and  Musgrave  Roads,  on  either  side 
of  which  handsome  homes  on  high  ground  overlooking  the  City  and 
the  Sea  abound.  The  view  towards  Sunset  was  exceeding  fine,  the 
whole  City  like  a Map  below  us,  the  Ocean  beyond,  with  the  Light 
House  on  the  Point  and  Steamers  swinging  at  their  anchors.  I never 
weary  of  the  Ocean,  however  much  it  may  have  tossed  me.  I do  not 
wonder  that  Xenophon,  skilful  writer  that  he  was,  knew  how  to  cap 
his  story  with  the  sublime.  After  bringing  his  Ten  Thousand  with 
thrilling  interest  through  many  perils,  he  finished  with  a climax  that 
all  the  World  has  admired  since,  leading  his  toil  and  travel- worn 
army  to  the  Euxine,  and  filling  the  heart  of  the  Esthetic  Greek  not 
only  with  a sense  of  safety,  but  his  very  soul  and  tongue  with  the 
splendid  vision  of  the  Sea  ! the  Sea  ! 

We  visited,  in  the  same  vicinity,  the  D’Urban  Botanical  Gardens, 
and  wandered  through  them,  admiring  how  the  young  places  in  these 
newly  discovered  Countries  in  the  pursuit  of  the  Useful,  never  forget 
the  cultivation  of  the  Beautiful.  You  have  seen  how,  wherever  I 
have  been  and  however  juvenile  the  place,  they  have  laid  the  ground- 
plan  of  Gardens  destined  to  be  of  great  value  to  the  future  of  the 
Country  and  its  people. 

It  was  nightfall  when  we  returned. 

I will  mention  here,  simply  because  it  oceurs  to  me,  and  you  may 
wish  to  know,  that  the  Currency  of  the  Colonies  of  Great  Britain  in 
South  Africa  is  Pounds,  Shillings,  and  Pence.  This  is  not  neces- 
sarily the  Currency  of  her  Colonies : you  will  recall,  that  the  Cur- 
rency of  Mauritius  is  Rupees ; and  will  recollect  from  my  Fourth 
Tour,  that  it  is  the  same  in  India,  whilst  farther  East  it  is  the 
Dollar. 


404 


LETTER  NO.  17. 


Same  City  and  Hotel, 

Sunday,  June  16,  1890. 

This  has  been  a quiet  day  of  rest,  and,  consequently,  with  no  inci- 
dents worth  writing  of. 

In  the  afternoon,  my  friends  and  I took  a walk  upon  the  main 
Street  of  the  City  and  enjoyed  the  throngs  of  people  of  various  Races 
and  Nationalities,  walking  hither  and  thither — the  White,  the  Indian, 
and  the  Kafir — in  their  respective  costume  and  toggery.  On  our 
walk,  we  came  across  a Salvation  Army  troop,  discoursing  silly  talk, 
accompanied  by  a Band.  The  Kafir  could  not  understand  the  Eng- 
lish lingo ; but  with  the  constitutional  sympathy  with  sound  which 
all  Negroes  have,  seemed  ready  for  a dance  when  the  Music  began ; 
for  he  will  cut  his  pidgeon  wing  anywhere  and  how,  as  I have  seen 
him  often  do  on  and  along  the  streets  without  apparent  provocation. 

In  the  Evening,  I sat  with  a number  of  young  Englishmen  under 
the  trees  in  front  of  the  Hotel,  and  talked  about  the  Orange  Free 
State  and  the  Transvaal,  the  Countries  of  the  Dutch  Boers,  where 
they  had  lived  or  travelled,  and  the  English  Colonies  and  their  con- 
dition and  prospects  ; and  an  hour  or  two  passed  pleasantly — keeping 
me  up  beyond  my  usual  hour. 


Steamer  Mexican,  Union  Steamship  Line, 

From  Natal  to  Port  Elizabeth, 

Along  South  African  Coast, 

Monday,  June  16,  1890. 

I was  up  early,  preparing  for  a move.  All  things  ready,  we 
Breakfasted,  and  our  Proprietor  took  us  and  our  baggage  to  the 
Landing,  whence,  in  a Launch,  we  were  transferred  to  the  Steamer, 
anchored  a mile  or  two  beyond  the  Bar.  Soon  our  baggage  and  our- 
selves were  aboard,  lifted  in  a basket  similar  to  that  which  helped 
us  from  the  Dunrobiu  Castle  on  our  arrival,  and  were  comfortably 
quartered  in  our  State-Rooms.  I have  a fine  one,  altogether  to  myself. 

The  Steamer  is  large — four  thousand  five  hundred  and  forty-nine 
tons — and  well  appointed.  The  number  of  passengers  are  few  in 
proportion  to  her  capacity,  and  we  have  plenty  of  elbow  room — than 
which  nothing,  on  travel,  is  more  comfortable.  I have  had  such  a 


STEAMSHIP  MEXICAN— NATAL  TO  PORT  ELIZABETH.  405 

number  of  crowds  on  this  Tour,  which  I have  told  you  of,  that  I 
would  like  to  think  the  same  fortune  would  attend  me  from  Cape 
Town  to  England,  instead  of  from  Natal  to  Port  Elizabeth,  which  I 
propose  to  make  the  terminus  of  this  run,  and  travel  thence  through 
the  interior  of  the  Cape  Colonies  to  Cape  Town,  in  place  of  going 
directly  there,  by  which  nothing  could  be  seen  of  the  Country. 

We  reached  the  Steamer  by  twelve  o’clock,  and  at  half-past  one. 
Anchor  lifted,  were  under  way.  Southwest  along  the  African  Coast. 
We  steamed  in  easy  distance  and  in  view,  and  in  the  delightful  breeze 
made  by  the  Vessel’s  motion,  aided  by  a slight  head-wind,  could  from 
the  Deck  enjoy  the  scene.  The  Shore  Line  is  high,  and  recedes  into 
higher  and  higher  elevations,  all  clad  in  vegetation — some  cultivated, 
and  some,  seemingly,  in  Nature’s  primeval  growths,  presenting  a 
charming  Landscape ; in  the  Evening  beautified  by  the  Sun,  when  he 
went  down  behind  them,  leaving  on  the  clouds  above  and  across  them, 
on  the  water,  some  of  the  most  splendid  of  his  touches. 

With  this  propitious  send  off,  we  leave  Natal.  Our  journey- 
ings  in  it  were  very  pleasant ; I hope  you  found  the  rapid  story  of 
them  not  wearisome  or  unprofitable  in  the  reading.  It  is  a region 
that  has  had  a not  altogether  uneventful  life.  It  was  discovered  by 
Vasco  da  Gama,  the  Portuguese  Navigator,  on  Christmas  Day,  1497, 
and  hence  called  Natal.  I have  told  you  briefly  of  its  lay  and  prod- 
ucts and  climate : on  the  North  is  Zululand,  where,  in  the  heroic 
contest  of  the  Zulu  Kafirs  for  the  Country  in  1879-80,  the  young 
Napoleon,  Prince  Imperial  of  France,  met  his  fate;  on  the  South, 
Kafifraria,  all  along  the  Shore  of  the  Indian  Ocean,  the  latter  divid- 
ing it  from  the  Cape  Colony  pi’oper ; on  the  West  lie  the  Moun- 
tain Range,  of  which  I have  already  spoken,  that  divides  it  from  the 
Orange  Free  State  and  the  Transvaal,  or  South  African  Republic, 
the  Land  of  the  Boers,  of  whom  I will  speak  more  in  the  progress 
of  my  travels.  It  has  the  name  of  Transvaal,  because  it  is  beyond 
the  River  Vaal,  a tributary  of  the  Orange,  one  of  the  largest  of 
African  Rivers.  Natal  continued  undisturbed  for  centuries  the  home 
of  the  Kafirs,  its  Aboriginal  inhabitants,  divided  into  many  discon- 
nected tribes. 

About  the  beginning  of  this  century — 1813 — Chaka,  a son  of  one 
of  the  chiefs,  appeared.  His  father,  fearing  his  ambitious  temper, 
had  driven  him  from  home ; but  on  his  father’s  death  he  returned, 
and  taking  the  succession,  played  the  r6le  which  Kamehameha  did  in 


406 


LETTER  NO.  17. 


the  Hawaiian-  Islands,  of  which  I gave  you  an  account  on  my  First 
Tour,  and  by  fierce  discipline  and  energy,  conquered  the  other  tribes 
and  united  them  under  one  rule  from  the  Cape  Colony  to  Delagoa 
Bay.  Chaka  was  murdered  by  his  brother  Umslangaan  in  1838 ; 
who  in  turn  was  murdered  a few  days  thereafter  by  Dingaan,  another 
brother,  who  became  the  second  great  Kafir  Chief. 

The  Boers,  driven  out  of  the  Cape  Colony  by  the  English, 
“ trekked  ’’  or  emigi’ated  Northward,  and  a portion  of  them  came  to 
Natal  by  invitation  of  Dingaan,  who  treacherously,  in  violation  of 
his  extended  hospitality,  killed  a number  of  them ; who,  in  turn, 
under  their  leader,  Pretorius,  defeated  Dingaan  and  made  his  brother 
Panda  Chief  in  his  stead,  and  settled  themselves  in  Natal,  masters  of 
the  Country.  In  1841  the  British  interfered,  and  after  a vigorous 
fight  overcame  the  Boers,  and  in  1843  proclaimed  Natal  a British 
Colony.  In  1845  it  was  separated  from  the  Cape,  and  in  1856  was 
made  a special  Colony,  with  British  Governmental  Offices  and  Func- 
tions ; and  such  it  is  to-day. 

In  the  progress  of  our  travels,  we  will  note  how  the  Anglo-Saxon 
has,  from  time  to  time,  moved  across  South  Africa,  and  planted  the 
standard  of  his  Empire : one  step  making  another  necessary,  till, 
under  the  claim  of  justice  or  self-]3rotection,  ousting  others  of  their 
possessions  or  their  rights,  his  dominion  is  supreme. 

Same  Steamship, 

And  at  East  London,  South  Africa, 

Tuesday,  June  17,  1890. 

I was  early  on  Deck  to  see  the  South  African  Shore,  presenting 
much  the  outlines  of  which  I yesterday  spoke.  After  Breakfast, 
between  nine  and  ten  o’clock,  we  came  to  anchor  in  front  of  East 
London,  two  hundred  and  sixty  miles  from  D’Urbau.  The  main 
portion  of  the  town  is  seated  on  the  shore,  elevated  above  the  water, 
whilst  a considerable  portion  of  its  suburbs  is  off  some  distance,  farther 
back  towards  the  Noi’theast,  and  on  higher  ground.  We  anchored  a 
mile  or  two  out,  and  from  the  Deck  had  a fine  view  of  the  sections 
of  the  town — both  well-built  and  respectable  in  appearance. 

None  of  the  passengers  went  ashore ; there  was  nothing  of  interest 
to  entice  a visit,  and  the  waves  were  rushing  in  across  the  Bar,  and 
dashing  their  white  crests  threateningly.  We  could  better  see  it  from 


STEAMSHIP  MEXICAN— EAST  LONDON. 


407 


the  Ship.  The  day  was  spent  in  taking  cargo — of  Wool  and  Mohair, 
the  chief  products  of  the  region  : night  came  whilst  thus  engaged, 
and  before  we  started  for  Port  Elizabeth,  our  stopping  place,  distant 
one  hundred  and  thirty-five  miles. 

I amused  myself  in  watching  the  coming  and  unloading  of  the 
Launches,  and  the  waves  in  their  wild  sport  upon  the  Breakwater, 
and  Shore,  and  Bar ; in  looking  at  the  Coast  ascending  inward  to 
higher  and  higher  ground — grass-grown  and  patched  with  areas  of 
forests ; in  enjoying  the  cool  breezes,  which  dissijjated  the  ideas  of 
heat  with  which  we  are  apt  to  associate  any  and  every  part  of  Africa ; 
and  in  talking  to  the  passengers.  Among  them  I met  with  a young 
German  and  his  Wife,  a Lady  from  Amsterdam,  who  has  lived  some 
years  in  Kimberley,  whither  we  are  bound,  and  who  told  me  much  of 
the  Country  and  the  people,  and  their  experience  among  them.  They 
are  both  young  and  intelligent,  and  speak  English  well.  The  subject- 
matter  of  their  talk  I need  not  now  detail : it  will  be  unfolded  in  my 
travels. 

We  are  now  under  way,  and  during  the  night  or  early  in  the 
morning  will  reach  our  destination.  I will,  therefore,  close  this 
Letter  and  mail  it  on  the  Ship,  or  take  it  ashore  and  mail  it  there, 
that  it  may  go  on  to  England  by  this  Steamer  and  thence  hurry  to 
you.  You  see,  the  Links  are  getting  fewer  and  fewer  which  separate 
us,  and  I am  following  my  Letters  faster  and  faster. 

I am  longing  more  and  more  for  Cape  Town,  where  I hope  to 
meet  your  messengers.  Never  on  any  Tour,  I again  repeat,  have 
your  Letters  overtaken  or  met  me  so  rarely.  They  will,  I trust, 
gather  in  Cape  Town  and  in  London,  and  tell  me,  seriatim,  all  your 
doings.  I earnestly  trust  that  none  of  mine  have  gone  astray,  and 
have  come  to  hand  in  their  appointed  time,  to  give  you  the  Log  of 
my  long  Journey  around  the  World. 

Taylor  must  not  fail  to  remember  me  in  love  to  Cousin  Mary,  and 
to  our  neighbors  and  inquiring  friends. 

How  I should  like  to  look  in  upon  you,  and  see  what  you  all  are 
doing  ! How  are  the  Doctor,  and  Mary,  and  Mag?  Give  them  my 
warmest  love,  every  one. 

To  Charles : I hope,  too,  all  are  well  with  you ; and  tell  them, 
with  my  love,  that  I have  them  in  my  memory,  and  wish  them  all 
good  things. 

With  tenderest  affection, 

F. 


408 


LETTER  NO.  18. 


Port  Elizabeth,  South  Africa, 
Phoenix  Hotel, 

Wednesday,  June  18,  1890. 


I simply  add,  that  we  are  safely  ashore  and  nicely  quartered.  I 
will  close  this  now  for  the  Mail,  and  give  you  the  particulars  of  our 
landing  in  my  next. 


F. 


[No.  18.] 


My  Dear  Mary, — 


Port  Elizabeth,  South  Africa, 
Phoenix  Hotel, 

Wednesday,  June  18,  1890. 


Yesterday  I finished  No.  17  to  your  Mother,  in  two  Envelopes. 

Before  daylight  this  morning,  we  came  to  anchor  in  Algoa  Bay, 
your  Map  will  show  you,  on  the  South  Coast  of  Africa  and  in  front 
of  Port  Elizabeth,  out,  probably,  a half  a mile  in  the  Roadstead. 
Though  a City  of  twelve  or  fifteen  thousand  people,  there  is  no  Har- 
bor, any  more  than  at  D’Urban  or  at  East  London  : a portion  of  the 
Roadstead  simply  protected  by  a Breakwater.  Indeed,  there  cannot 
be  said  to  be  a Harbor  along  the  whole  Coast  Line  from  Natal  to 
Cape  Town.  The  Ships  cast  anchor,  and  their  passengers  and  cargo 
are  taken  off  and  on  by  means  of  Steam  Launches  and  Lighters ; in 
bad  weather  both  are  impossible,  and  often  Sailing  Vessels  drag  their 
Anchors  and  are  driven  helplessly  in  wreck  upon  the  Shore.  I am 
told,  in  one  Historic  storm,  not  long  ago,  twenty-three  met  this  dis- 
aster. 

You  abserve,  Algoa  Bay  opens  to  the  Southeast,  and  when  the 
wind  is  from  that  direction,  there  is  a concentration  of  breeze  and 
current  which,  I am  told,  makes  it  more  dangerous  than  would  be 
the  open  Sea.  Happily  there  was  none  such  to-day,  and  the  waters 
were  smooth  and  quiet,  enabling  us  to  pass  from  the  Steamer  to  the 
Launch  by  the  usual  stairway,  without  the  assistance  of  the  Basket, 
which  could  not  be  done  either  at  D’Urban  or  East  London. 


PORT  ELIZABETH. 


409 


The  City  looks  well  from  the  water,  spread  out  upon  rising  ground 
over  a considerable  area,  with  well-built  and  substantial,  some  of  them 
large  and  handsome,  structures.  Upon  a high  site  in  the  heart  of  the 
town  rises  a conspicuous  Light  House,  by  the  side  of  which  is  a massive 
Pyramid  of  unhewn  stone — striking  objects  from  the  Steamer ; around 
them  being  an  open  area,  without  adornment,  simply  sward,  on  either 
side  and  below  which  the  houses  of  the  City  lay.  Port  Elizabeth 
contains,  it  is  said,  from  twelve  to  fifteen  thousand  people. 

A few  passengers  came  ashore  with  us : some,  like  ourselves,  stop- 
ping here ; some  simply  to  see  the  place  or  to  await  the  departure  of 
the  Steamer  on  Saturday  next,  and  then  go  on.  Among  the  latter  were 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Betz,  of  whom,  I think,  I have  spoken — a young  Ger- 
man with  a Dutch  wife — both  nice  people.  He  is  a pleasant,  intelli- 
gent fellow,  and  has  had  an  eventful  life : coming  out  to  South  Africa 
a youth  of  eighteen,  and  with  a speculative  spirit  jumped  into  the 
maelstrom  of  the  Gold  Field  and  Diamond  Fever,  and  at  twenty- 
three  years  of  age  coming  out  winner  to  the  amount  of  three  hundred 
thousand  dollars ; now,  in  the  whirligig  of  fortune,  flat  in  money, 
but  full  of  hope  for  another  venture.  He  has  lived  in  Kimberley — 
the  Diamond  site — and  tells  me  much  about  it.  They  will  remain 
ashore  during  our  stay. 

Coming  to  the  Landing  from  the  Steamer,  we  saw  the  wrecks  of 
several  vessels  strewn  along  the  Shore,  confirming  the  reputation  of 
the  Coast  for  safety.  Our  baggage  was  taken  to  the  Custom  House ; 
the  Officer  did  not  even  touch  our  traps,  but  courteously,  and  to  us 
agreeably,  passed  them  with  a simple  inquiry  as  to  their  contents. 

By  the  advice  of  our  young  friends,  who  spoke  from  experience,  we 
came  to  this  Hotel.  We  had  telegraphed  for  Rooms  from  D’Urban, 
though  we  had  received  no  reply.  The  Telegram,  however,  had 
come  safely  and  been  answered ; and,  whilst  we  had  not  received  the 
answer,  we  found  our  Rooms  ready  for  us — and  our  experience  satis- 
fies us  that  we  have  made  no  mistake.  Its  competitor  is  the  Grand, 
which  occupies  a high  position  on  a hill ; this  is  more  convenient  for 
going  to  and  fro,  being  in  the  heart  of  the  town,  and  my  window, 
before  which  I write  these  lines,  overlooking  the  lower  houses  and 
out  upon  the  shipping  of  the  Bay. 

After  Lunch,  I went  and  mailed  Letter  No.  17,  and  Maps  of  South 
Africa  to  your  Mother  and  your  Uncles  Charles  and  Taylor,  and 
then  visited  the  Offices  of  the  two  Steamship  Lines  to  England — the 


410 


LETTER  NO.  18. 


Union  and  the  Castle — to  make  inquiry  with  regard  to  our  passage 
from  Cape  Town  thither,  when  we  have  done  our  Tour  through  the 
Colonies,  We  propose  to  go  hence  to  Kimberley,  and  thence  direct 
to  the  Cape  by  Rail.  You  see,  my  long  Journey  is  now  tending 
rapidly  homeward — for  which  neither  you  nor  I am  sorry. 

Toward  Sunset,  Mr.  Nead  and  I walked  about  the  City.  In  close 
vicinity  to  the  Hotel  are  the  Town  Hall,  the  Court  House,  and  the 
Market  House,  all  imposing  structures,  built  of  stone  and  plastered. 
We  visited  the  Market  House ; but  the  hour  was  over,  and  buyers  and 
sellers  and  their  products  gone.  In  the  same  building  we  observed 
a notice  of  the  Feather  Market  Holding;  we  went,  but  unhappily 
that,  too,  was  over,  and  the  feathers  taken  away.  I regret  this, 
because  they  are  chiefly  the  product  of  the  Ostrich  Farms,  quite  a 
number  of  which  now  are  carried  on  in  the  Cape  Colonies — the  wild 
birds  having  been  clean  exterminated.  Of  late,  I hear,  they  have  not 
been  profitable — the  supply  increasing  and  the  demand  diminishing — 
varying  with  the  fashions.  But  a gentleman  told  me  the  sales  to-day 
indicated  a revival — the  feathers  selling  for  one  hundred  and  ninety 
dollars  a pound. 

Same  City  and  Hoted, 

Thursday,  June  19,  1890. 

We  went  after  Breakfast  to  the  Office  of  the  Union  S.  S.  Line  to 
engage  passage  in  the  Athenian,  an  excellent  Ship,  it  is  said,  sailing 
from  Cape  Town  on  the  Ninth  of  July  for  Southampton,  and  selected 
our  State-Rooms.  We  are  thus  early,  from  excessive  caution,  fearing 
lest  the  best  Rooms  may  be  engaged ; and  the  voyage  being  one  of 
three  weeks,  we  deemed  it  wiser  to  be  early,  rather  than  too  late.  We 
found  there  Captain  Lamer  of  the  Mexican,  we  had  just  left,  and  he 
helped  us  to  select  Rooms,  he  knowing  the  Athenian  and  the  route. 

I ought  to  mention  as  an  incident  of  travel,  that  this  morning  I 
ate  Penguin  Eggs  for  Breakfast,  and  found  them  very  good.  They 
are  rather  larger  than  Hen  Eggs : boiled  hard,  the  yolk  is  like  in 
appearance,  and  the  white  resembles  gelatine — all  tasting  like  the 
Hen  Egg,  save  a slight  touch  of  fishiness,  which  I don’t  think  would 
be  observed  if  not  known  to  be  those  of  a Penguin. 

We  then  walked  for  sevei’al  hours  about  the  City,  I think  well 
exhausting  its  chief  streets  and  objects  of  interest ; going  along  its 
business  thoroughfares  and  around  those  upon  the  heights  and  sub- 


POET  ELIZABETH. 


411 


urbs — the  latter  thronged  with  Kafir  people  and  habitations,  not 
built  in  hut  style,  but  after  the  fashion  of  the  whites,  and  similar  to 
those  of  the  Negroes  with  us  in  architecture  and  keep — the  former 
with  many  handsome  mansions  and  homes.  We  visited  the  Pyramid, 
of  which  I have  spoken,  visible  from  the  Ship,  and  found  it  a monu- 
ment to  Lady  Doncan,  who  died  here  seventy  years  ago,  greatly 
beloved  and  lamented ; near  by  is  a handsome  Light  House. 

In  the  afternoon,  we  had  intended  to  take  a Carriage  and  drive ; 
but  determined  rather  to  take  Train  and  run  to  Uitenhage — pro- 
nounced Witeuhagee — a small  town  twenty  miles  Northwest.  Mr. 
and  Mrs.  Betz  went  with  us — he  having  been  there  before  and  know- 
ing the  town  and  intervening  Country.  > 

The  whole  region  is  rather  flat ; uncultivated  and  thick-set  with 
grass  and  undergrowths.  It  seems  to  be  used  entirely  for  pasturage 
and  Ostrich  Farms.  Numbers  of  the  fine  Birds  were  in  sight  from 
the  Train,  and  wandering  in  freedom  over  such  a wild  range,  they 
lose  the  awkwardness  which  seems  to  belong  to  them  in  captivity, 
and  become  graceful,  royal  creatures.  It  was  beautiful  to  see  them 
striding  across  the  fields,  sornetimes  fast,  sometimes  leisurely,  but 
with  an  abandon  most  attractive  and  interesting. 

When  we  reached  Uitenhage,  we  strolled  about  the  town — simply 
a South  African  place — broad,  straight  streets  crossing  each  other  at 
right  angles,  with  houses  spread  over  magnificent  distances.  The 
Sun  was  hot  under  his  unobstructed  beams ; in  the  shade  of  the  trees, 
which  lined  many  of  the  streets,  pleasant  enough.  But  I was  absorbed 
with  taking  in  a New  Race — the  Hottentots — whom  I now  saw  for 
the  first  time : they  were  strongly  marked  from  the  Kafirs,  who  were 
also  about  in  numbers,  but  all  had  been  licked  into  shape  by  the  con- 
tact and  costumes  of  Civilization.  I will  postpone  comment  till  I 
have  seen  more  of  them — which  I hope  to  do  before  leaving  the  Cape 
Colonies. 

In  the  Evening,  I went  to  the  Skating  Rink  near  by,  to  see  the 
people  gathered  there ; the  young  men  and  ladies,  and  the  boys  and 
girls  were  rolling  over  the  floor — some  awkwardly,  some  gracefully — 
but  in  no  respect  different  from  what  they  did  in  our  town  a few  years 
ago ; and  their  pleasure  in  it  and  that  of  the  spectators,  I opine,  will 
last  about  as  long. 


412 


LETTER  NO.  18. 


Grahamstown,  South  Africa, 
Railway  Hotel, 

Friday,  June  20, 1890. 

To-day  we  ran  up  to  Grahamstown  by  Rail — distant  from  Port 
Elizabeth  one  hundred  and  six  miles.  We  left  at  nine  o’clock  and 
reached  here  in  the  afternoon  at  half-past  five.  We  parted  from  our 
friends,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Betz,  who  go  on  to  Cape  Town  in  the  Steamer 
Mexican  to-morrow,  where  we  expect  to  see  them  again  on  our  arrival 
there.  He  gave  us  Letters  to  several  of  his  friends  in  Kimberley, 
requesting  them  to  show  us  the  curiosities  in  that  place. 

The  Station  Agent  in  Port  Elizabeth  was  exceedingly  courteous, 
and  said  he  would  secure  us  a whole  compartment  to  ourselves,  that 
our  trip  might  be  the  more  pleasant ; and  sure  enough,  when  we 
arrived  at  the  Train  this  morning  he  conducted  us  to  the  car,  which 
we  found  marked  Reserved,’’  and  gave  orders,  that  we  must  not  be 
intruded  upon — and  we  were  not,  during  the  whole  journey.  The 
Hotel  Proprietor  fixed  us  up  a lunch,  and  a good  one,  which  we 
enjoyed  whilst  we  travelled. 

Grahamstown,  you  observe,  is  Northeast  of  Port  Elizabeth — Uiten- 
hage  is  Northwest.  To-day  we  rounded  Algoa  Bay,  and  soon  began 
to  ascend.  Grahamstown  is  seventeen  hundred  and  twenty-six  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  Sea,  and  at  many  points  the  grade  is  heavy  and 
most  perceptible.  The  Country  for  miles — more  than  half  the  way — 
is  thick-set  with  scrub;  sometimes  extending  in  level  plains  to  the 
Mountains — now  nigh,  now  far — without  an  acre  scarcely  in  culti- 
vation. After  a while  a few  patches  of  Indian  Corn  or  Mealies 
appeared,  but  of  scanty  growth.  After  leaving  this  region  and  ascend- 
ing more  rapidly  the  scrub  grew  less,  and  extended  areas  came  in  view, 
embracing  plain  and  Mountain,  sometimes  thick-set  in  growths,  some- 
times without  trees  and  covered  with  grass,  or  of  bare  rock.  In  the 
latter  part  of  our  ride  the  views  were  more  and  more  extended,  and, 
aided  by  a fine  Sunset,  the  Landscape  became  uncommonly  striking, 
especially  Grahamstown  and  vicinity,  seated  in  a great  cusp,  sur- 
rounded by  Mountains,  and  rising  at  least  into  the  grand. 

The  whole  range  of  Country  from  Port  Elizabeth  to  this  place,  for 
fertility  and  productiveness,  does  not  impress  me  favorably — quite 
the  reverse — and  scarce  any  of  it  has  been  reduced  to  cultivation  : it 


PORT  ELIZABETH  TO  GRAHAMSTOWN. 


413 


appearing  to  be  almost  entirely  used  for  pasturage.  We  saw  large 
flocks  of  Sheep  and  Angora  Goats,  and  herds  of  Cattle — but  especially 
the  whole,  a range  for  the  Ostriches,  hundreds  of  which  we  saw  here 
and  there  over  the  entire  distance.  The  more  I see  of  the  Regal  Bird, 
the  more  impressed  I am  with  his  beauty,  when  in  good  kelter  and 
wandering  over  a range  suitable  to  his  size  and  movements.  The 
awkwardness  which  seems  to  attend  him  in  confinement  disappears, 
and  with  arched  neck  assuming  graceful  curves  appropriate  to  the 
slowness  or  rapidity  of  his  gait,  and  the  facile  and  admirable  use  he 
makes  of  his  wings,  hanging,  when  lifted,  in  festoons  of  feathers,  and 
aiding  him  in  his  speed,  is  one  of  the  most  attractive  exhibitions  I 
have  witnessed  in  Nature.  They  are  generally  black,  with  marks  of 
white,  or  of  altogether  a lead  color.  Often  they  would  be  wandering 
alone,  seemingly  satisfied  with  their  solitariness — often  in  gangs — 
they  and  the  Horses  and  the  Cattle  and  the  Sheep  and  Angora  Goats 
together — apparently  a happy  family.  The  Farmers  sometimes  hatch 
the  eggs  artificially  with  incubators  ; sometimes  allow  the  Birds  to  do 
it,  the  male  and  female  alternating  in  that  domestic  duty,  and  alter- 
nately, also,  caring  for  the  young — for  he  is  a gallant  gentleman. 
They  are  generally  harmless ; but,  now  and  then,  what  they  call  a 
wild  one,  is  very  vicious  and  dangerous,  or  when  setting  or  tending 
their  young,  if  disturbed,  will  attack  the  disturber,  and  with  what  is 
called  a kick — rather  a sidelong  paw — will,  with  their  sharp  toe, 
inflict  a mortal  wound. 

The  Proprietor  of  the  Phoenix  had  telegraphed  for  Rooms,  and 
when  we  reached  the  Station  we  were  met  with  a Carriage  and  con- 
ducted here,  where  we  were  speedily  and  comfortably  quartered. 
After  we  had  taken  Dinner,  it  was  too  late  to  see  anything  of  the 
town,  for  night  falls  in  these  Latitudes  at  this  season  early,  there 
being  no  twilight,  and  by  six  o’clock  has  superseded  the  day ; and 
when  the  Sun  goes  and  the  Stars  come,  at  this  altitude,  a delightful  and 
bracing  coolness  comes  with  them.  They  tell  me  Grahamstown  is  a 
healthy,  pleasant  spot  at  all  seasons ; and  from  its  site,  I am  not  sur- 
prised to  hear  it. 

Port  Elizabeth,  Phoenix  Hotel, 

Saturday,  June  21,  1890. 

Here  I am,  safe  back  again  in  my  Chamber  at  the  Phoenix.  The 
Proprietor  was  kind  enough  to  retain  our  Rooms  and  heavy  baggage 
for  us,  making  no  charge. 


414 


LETTER  NO.  18. 


In  Grahamstown,  before  Breakfast  this  morning,  I walked  to  the 
Market  Place,  and  in  doing  so  pedestrianized  several  of  the  principal 
streets  of  the  town.  It  is  well-built,  containing  good  business  houses 
and  residences,  and  Public  Buildings  of  respectable  import;  the  Town 
Hall,  several  Churches,  and  the  Tower  of  the  projected  Established 
Church  of  England,  show  conspicuously  from  the  heights  when 
entering  the  town.  It  contains,  I am  told,  seven  or  eight  thousand 
people. 

The  Market  presented  nothing  of  especial  interest;  the  Market 
House  is  small,  surrounded  by  a large  open  Square  upon  the  suburbs 
of  the  town.  In  the  former,  I saw  a considerable  array  of  products 
much  like  our  own  in  kind,  together  with  some  tropical  or  semi-trop- 
ical fruits  and  vegetables,  but  nearly  all  the  buyers  and  sellers  were 
Whites — very  few  of  the  aborigines  of  the  Country — and,  upon  in- 
quiry, I learned  they  did  little  cultivation,  even  of  vegetables,  on  their 
own  account.  But  the  Market  Square  was  full  of  Wagons  and  their 
long  teams  of  Oxen — from  twelve  to  sixteen  and  eighteen — almost 
invariably  in  charge  of  the  Kafirs  and  Hottentots : one  man  or  boy 
leading  the  team  with  a rope,  and  another  at  the  wheel  with  his  long 
whip.  They  were  harnessed  with  the  yoke  like  those  with  us.  The 
Hottentot  is  said  to  be  especially  expert  in  managing  the  ox  team. 
The  wagons  are  large  and  heavy,  it  is  true,  but  four  of  our  oxen  could 
readily  move  any  load  I saw ; but,  I am  told,  the  Roads  are,  in  the 
rainy  season,  bad,  and  the  oxen  lighter  than  ours,  grass  fed,  and  the 
Driver  loves  the  show  he  makes  with  his  long  team.  The  wagons 
are  well  made,  mostly  in  this  Country,  and  kept  in  good  repair,  being 
much  used  in  travelling  through  the  interior  of  the  Country — though 
the  Rail  and  Horse  Coach  are  rapidly  superseding  them,  as  they  have 
long  since  done  in  our  own  Country  across  the  Plains,  My  young 
friends,  Betz  and  his  wife,  have  had  much  experience  in  this  mode  of 
travel  through  the  Orange  Free  State  and  the  Ti’ansvaal — regions 
farther  North — moving  for  many  days,  outspanning  or  unhitching  at 
night  and  sleeping  in  the  wagon  ; inspanning  or  hitching  up  in  the 
morning  and  moving  on. 

The  Hottentots  and  the  Kafirs  are  both  here — the  latter  called  the 
natives,  though  it  seems  to  me  an  improper  designation,  for  the  true 
home  of  the  former  is  farther  East  and  North.  The  Kafirs  were  the 
more  recently  conquered  on  the  sweeping  Eastward  of  the  White 
Colonial  tide.  The  Hottentots  inhabited  this  region  and  Westward, 


GRAHAMSTOWN. 


415 


towards  and  about  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope.  When  the  Dutch — after- 
wards called  Boers — came,  finding  the  Hottentots  mixed  with  them, 
which  white  stx'eak  is  to-day  most  pronounced  and  distinguishable — 
much  more  so  than  the  Kafirs,  who  are  of  more  recent  conquest.  The 
Hottentots  one  sees  here  are  unmistakeable;  but  the  long  presence  of 
the  White  man  among  them  has  obliterated  the  aboriginal  customs 
and  costumes  which  we  found  existing  among  the  Kafirs  in  Natal. 
Travelling  farther  inward,  we  may  come  across  the  Hottentot  nearer 
to  his  Native  State — and  across  the  Boers,  too,  with  the  modes  of  life 
and  characteristics  which  have  made  him  an  Historic  figure  in  South 
Africa. 

After  Breakfast,  we  took  a nice  two-horse  Carriage  and  Driver  and 
drove  through  and  around  the  town.  By  an  ascending  Eoad,  we 
mounted  the  heights  and  had  an  excellent  view  of  the  town  below  us, 
now  embowered  in  trees,  all  of  which  nearly  were  of  foreign  impor- 
tation, of  various  species,  but  chiefly  Blue  Gums  or  Eucalypti,  which 
grow  well,  and  the  Mountains  around  being  bare  of  such  vegetation, 
make  the  town  look  like  an  Oasis,  aud  give  it,  by  contrast,  a greater 
repu,tation  for  beauty  than  its  own  merits  fully  justify. 

The  Road  is  well  laid  out  and  graded,  and  rounding  the  Mountain 
upon  which  it  is  located,  uncommonly  fine  Landscapes  open  : on  one 
side,  the  town  with  its  outlying  suburbs  and  beyond  the  lofty  Ranges ; 
on  the  other.  Mountain  after  Mountain,  getting  lower  and  lower,  till 
at  last,  Southward,  thirty  miles  or  more  away,  the  Ocean  and  the 
Sky  join  in  undistinguishable  Blue.  Off  to  the  Northeast,  the 
Range  of  Mountains  sweep,  dividing  Natal  from  the  Orange  Free 
State  and  Basuto  Land,  which  we  saw  grandly  on  our  trip  to  Lady- 
smith— Cathkin,  the  loftiest  of  its  Peaks,  conspicuous,  rising  more 
than  ten  thousand  feet  in  height.  It  was  a scene  which  well  repaid  us. 

We  saw  upon  the  Road  a number  of  convicts  at  work — Kafirs  and 
Hottentots,  which  by  their  phiz  could  be  readily  distinguished  from 
each  other — and  visited  the  Reservoir  that  supplies  the  town  abund- 
antly with  good  water,  around  which  trees  .have  been  planted,  grown 
into  shady  Groves,  where,  now  and  then,  the  people  of  Grahamstown 
come  with  bands  of  music  and  have  a quiet  or  jolly  time;  and  thence 
through  the  Garden,  merely  begun,  but  promising  to  be  an  ornament 
to  the  City,  when  it  grows. 

Coming  up  from  Port  Elizabeth,  and  on  our  ride  to-day,  we  saw 
Ant  Hills  innumerable,  covering  square  miles  of  Country,  and  inter- 


416 


LETTER  NO.  18. 


esting,  like  those  which  engaged  our  attention  in  Natal.  The  Driver 
gave  us  the  same  account  we  have  hitherto  had — that  they  are  harm- 
less to  tlie  herdsman  and  tiller  of  the  soil.  But  other  much  smaller 
hillocks  attracted  our  notice,  which  the  Driver  said  were  Mole  Hills, 
much  more  noxious  things : the  architects  and  inhabitants  destroying 
vegetation,  and  well  worthy  of  the  anathemas  they  receive.  He,  also, 
in  communicative  mood,  told  me  what  he  knew  about  the  Hottentots 
and  Kafirs,  the  latter  of  whom  he  called  natives,  and  their  distinguish- 
ing characteristics.  Simply  gathering  information  now  about  them, 
I thanked  him,  and  treasured  up  his  words. 

My  old  Friend  Mr.  Layard,  you  remember,  gave  me  a Letter  to 
his  friend  Dr.  Atherstoue,  who  resides  in  Grahamstown.  I am  not, 
you  know,  in  the  habit  of  delivering  such  Letters ; but  it  contained 
friendly  words  and  information  about  himself  and  his  doings,  and  I 
thought  ought  to  reach  Dr.  Atherstone’s  hands.  I,  therefore,  made 
the  Driver  take  us  there.  I found  his  house,  a cozy  cottage  filled 
with  things  which  mark  the  man  of  culture.  I saw  several  Ladies, 
among  them  his  Grand-daughter,  who  told  me  the  Doctor  is  a mem- 
ber of  the  Colonial  Parliament  now  meeting  in  Cape  Town,  and  is 
there  at  present  upon  his  duties ; and  she  regretted,  and  knew  he 
would,  not  meeting  me.  Upon  reflection,  I determined  to  keep  the 
Letter  till  my  arrival  in  Cape  Town  ; probably,  I will  make  myself 
known  to  him  there. 

At  eleven  o’clock  we  were  at  the  Station  with  our  baggage,  and  a 
few  minutes  thereafter  were  in  a compartment  to  ourselves  and  rolling 
back  to  Port  Elizabeth.  I will  not  repeat  in  words  our  journey  up  ; 
I observed  more  particularly  the  various  growths  in  sight  along  the 
way — many  of  them  I am  not  Botanist  enough  to  even  call  by  name ; 
the  Mimosa  was  there  in  force,  and  other  similar  stunted  or  bunchy 
specimens  covering  vast  areas  with  thickets  and  jungles,  whence  the 
wild  beasts  have  been  pretty  well  killed  or  driven  Northward  before 
the  White  man,  into  wilder  haunts,  but  where  numerous  Deer  of 
various  species  still  find  cover  and  abound,  and  feathered  game.  Our 
Proprietor  here,  with  some  friends,  brought  home  half  a dozen  Bucks, 
of  which  we  had  the  benefit  to-night  at  Dinner. 

Moss  hung  on  some  of  the  trees : but  not  to  compare  with  that 
which  the  Live  Oak  of  our  Southern  States  waves  from  its  widespread, 
brawny  arms,  like  Imperial  streamers;  Cacti  of  several  kinds  attracted 
us,  one  species,  especially,  like  a bundle  of  well-turned  clubs,  some 


PORT  ELIZABETH. 


417 


like  the  Prickly  Pear,  but  none  to  rival  the  marvellous  caprice  and 
beauty  of  New  Mexico,  where,  among  many  other  quaint  forms,  they 
rose  over  the  barren  scene  with  the  majesty  and  grace  of  Classic 
columns.  Some  of  the  plants,  covering  many  acres,  were  strikingly 
similar  to  the  Sage  Bush,  which  is  a part  of  the  Landscape  that  makes 
our  Western  plains  phenomenal ; maybe,  it  is  the  same. 

Two  young  Englishmen  entered  our  compartment  at  the  Kimberley 
Junction;  one,  a Mr.  Heinecke,  he  informed  me,  who  has  lived  several 
years  in  the  United  States  and  is  travelling  in  behalf  of  some  houses 
there,  in  the  Agricultural  Implement  business;  the  other,  a Preacher 
in  the  Established  Church  of  England,  and  a Professor  of  the  Classics 
in  the  University  at  Grahamstown — Mr.  Jenkins.  We  had  much 
talk  during  our  ride,  I directing  it  to  their  experiences  in  the  regions 
of  South  Africa. 

When  we  arrived,  about  half-past  six  o’clock,  at  the  Station,  our 
Proprietor,  Mr.  George,  met  and  escorted  us  to  the  Hotel — Mr.  Jen- 
kins coming  with  us ; Mr.  Heinecke  going  to  the  Club,  where  he  had 
engaged  quarters. 

Thus  ended  our  pleasant  Excursion  to  Grahamstown. 

Same  City  and  Hotel, 

Sunday,  June  22,  1890. 

This  has  been  a day  of  rest : I spent  the  morning  in  my  Boom — 
Africa  ‘‘  shut  out  ” — and  gathered  you  all  about  me  in  this  far  distant 
Country.  I knew  that  you  had  no  idea  where  I was,  or  what  about ; 
I could  imagine  where  you  were,  and  what  a-doing  on  the  Sabbath 
day.  From  my  Chamber  window  I could  look  out  upon  Algoa  Bay 
and  see  the  Ship  on  which  I have  already  engaged  passage  from  Cape 
Town  to  England ; and  am  not  sorry  that  I am  soon  to  finish  the  last 
long  links  in  the  girdling  chain,  and  be  with  you  in  the  dear  Old 
Home  once  more. 

In  the  aftei’noon,  we  walked  to  the  Park  and  Garden,  in  the  suburbs, 
at  the  terminus  of  a street  called  White’s  Road,  on  which  most  of  the 
handsome  residences  are  located,  enjoying  the  pleasant  temperature, 
the  throngs  of  people  engaged  in  the  same  recreation,  and  from  the 
elevation,  admiring  the  outlook  over  the  town  below  and  the  Bay 
and  the  Ships  beyond.  The  Garden  is  a promising  affair,  like  all 
such  places  in  the  New  Colonies,  wherever  you  may  find  them.  No 
27 


418 


LETTER  NO.  18. 


sooner  do  they  found  a town,  than  they  plant  beside  or  near  it  a 
breathing  place  for  its  inhabitants. 

We  then  returned  and  walked  along  the  water  wall,  and  enjoyed  the 
melody  of  the  waves,  till  the  Stars  and  the  young  Moon  came  out. 

At  Same  City  and  Hotel, 

And  on  Train  from  Port  Elizabeth  to  Kimberley, 

Monday.,  June  23,  1890. 

After  Breakfast,  we  went  to  see  the  Ostrich  Feather  Market,  held 
not  far  from  the  Hotel,  in  the  Hall  where  we  visited  the  Skating 
Pink  the  other  night.  The  Feathers  were  arranged  on  long  tempo- 
rary tables  extending  the  length  of  the  room,  and  were  of  various 
kinds  and  qualities.  The  Auctioneer  and  the  buyers  walked  through 
in  order,  and  they  were  sold  with  wonderful  speed — beyond  my 
ability  to  follow  in  the  call.  When  knocked  down,  they  were  trans- 
ferred by  Natives  to  the  Scales  and  weighed  in  another  part  of  the 
Hall.  It  was  both  quiet  and  rapid  work.  There  has  been  for  some 
time  a depression  in  the  prices,  and  the  Ostrich  Farmer  feared  his 
occupation  was  gone;  but,  lately,  for  reasons  unaccountable,  there  has 
been  a boom  in  the  Feather  field,  and  the  prices  have  been  phenome- 
nally high.  Were  the  hapless  Eugenie  upon  the  Throne,  it  might 
find  a solution  in  a fashion  freak  of  hers.  But  Eugenie  has,  ’tis  pity 
for  her,  met  the  fate  of  many  a Queen  before ; and  who  has  succeeded 
her  as  the  “ Glass  of  Fashion  and  the  Mould  of  Form  ? ” 

Mr.  Nead  and  I then  went  in  a Tug  to  the  Steamship  Athenian, 
anchored  in  the  Bay,  to  see  the  Rooms  we  had  chosen  for  our  voyage 
in  her.  They  were  comfortable  and  good.  She  steams  on  upon  her 
beat  to  Delagoa  Bay,  beyond  Natal,  this  afternoon,  and  returning 
thence,  we  will  catch  her  in  Cape  Town,  and  by  her  reach  Old  Eng- 
land— a long  journey  of  six  thousand  miles  across  the  Tropics  and 
the  Line — but  by  that  much  nearer  Home ! In  the  meantime,  we 
will  run  by  Rail  to  Kimberley,  and  thence  again  by  Rail  to  meet  the 
Ship. 

Returning  in  the  Tug,  we  visited  the  Wine  Vaults  in  the  basement 
of  the  building  where  we  saw  the  Feathers,  and  were  much  entertained. 
The  Gentleman  in  charge  showed  us  through,  and  pointing  out  to  us 
the  tuns  and  other  vessels  filled  with  wine,  told  us  all  was  of  the 
Vintage  of  the  Cape  Colonies,  which  were  growing  from  year  to  year 


PORT  ELIZABETH. 


419 


in  the  product  and  the  sale.  He  kindly  gave  us  specimens,  that  we 
might  test  the  virtues  of  his  varieties — Constantia,  Sherry,  Port,  and 
a combination  of  his  own,  rivalling,  to  my  unpracticed  fancy,  and 
tasting  not  unlike  the  famous  Chartreuse.  The  whole  belongs  to  the 
Port  Elizabeth  Wine  Association ; the  Vaults  are  rented  from  the 
City. 

In  another  part  of  the  big  Building,  we  found  the  Museum — not 
a large  collection,  but,  like  such  a number  of  similar  Institutions  I 
have  visited  in  these  New  Countries,  highly  creditable  to  the  place  and 
intelligence  and  culture  of  the  people.  I was  especially  interested  in 
a fine  specimen  of  the  Mamba  Snake,  said  to  be  the  most  venomous 
and  dangerous  of  the  reptiles  of  South  Africa,  being  large  and  rapid 
in  its  movements,  and  very  vicious,  but  a graceful  looking  beast 
withal;  and  in  the  number  of  specimens  of  the  Bok  or  Deer — Bok 
being  the  Dutch  Buck  : the  Spring  Bok,  the  Stein  Bok,  the  Bush 
Bok,  the  Gry  Bok,  the  Blaaw  (Blue)  Bok,  the  Clip  Springer,  the 
Duiker  Bok,  the  Rhee  Bok,  the  Hartebeeste,  the  Water  Bok,  the  Gun 
Bok,  the  Koodoo,  the  Eland;  all  are  small,  except  the  Koodoo,  which 
is  the  size  of  a Stag,  and  the  Eland  the  size  of  and  not  unlike  a large 
Ox  in  shape,  but  all  specially  marked  by  beautiful  curved  and  variedly 
twisted  horns.  Besides  these,  the  Superintendent  said,  tliere  were 
many  other  species  of  Boks  still  surviving  in  the  Colonies,  whose 
names  he  could  not  at  once  recall,  and  even  if  he  could,  I Avould  not 
bother  you  with  a repetition. 

We  then  rummaged  through  a Curio  Shop ; but  I could  find 
nothing  worth  taking  home  characteristic  of  the  Country  and  the 
aborigines,  which  I have  not  already  gathered. 

We  had  arranged  with  the  Station  Master  about  our  compartment 
on  the  Train  to  Kimberley,  who  had  promised  that  he  would  reserve 
one  for  us  through ; when  we  went  to  the  Depot  at  fifteen  minutes 
after  seven,  we  found  that  promise  fulfilled  and  the  compartment 
ready  for  us,  of  which  we  took  possession.  The  Cars  are  for  Sleep- 
ing, but  no  bed  clothes  are  furnished.  One  side  is  laid  ofiF  in  sections, 
which  are  reached  by  an  Aisle  or  Alley  on  the  other.  There  are  two 
broad  leather-covered  seats,  and  two  above,  which  can  be  let  down  or 
shut  up  at  pleasure.  On  these  we  laid  down,  covering  ourselves  with 
our  wraps  and  blankets,  and  having  the  whole  compartment  to  our- 
selves, anticipated  a comfortable  night.  It  was  very  kind  in  the 
Officer  thus  courteously  and  considerately  to  treat  us. 


420 


LETTER  NO.  IS. 


I ought  to  mention,  that  during  the  afternoon  the  Mayor  of  Port 
Elizabeth,  James  Buster,  Esq.,  called  to  see  us,  to  extend  to  us  the 
courtesies  of  his  position  and  to  offer  to  do  anything  in  his  power  to 
make  our  stay  profitable  and  pleasant.  He  had  just  been  informed 
of  our  presence  in  the  City,  and  regretted  he  had  not  known  it  sooner. 
He  is  a burly-hearted  Englishman,  the  stiffness  and  provincialism 
shaken  out  of  him  by  long  residence  abroad,  and  contact  with  various 
peoples.  He  has  lived  here  many  years  and  grown  into  wealth  with 
the  Colony.  Of  course,  we  did  not  allow  him  to  surpass  us  in  civ- 
ility; but  expressed  our  sorrow,  that  time  did  not  permit  us  to  accept 
the  tenders  of  hospitality — I,  secretly,  very  glad. 

The  Agent  of  the  Union  Steamship  Line,  also,  called  to  offer  his 
services  to  render  in  any  way  in  his  power  our  voyage  pleasant ; and 
again  met  us  at  the  Station,  and  brought  us  Magazines  and  Papers 
to  beguile  the  tedium  of  the  long  journey  to  Kimberley. 

Kimberley,  Griqua  Land  West,  South  Africa, 

Grand  Hotel, 

Tuesday,  June  24,  1890. 

The  anticipated  quiet  possession  of  our  compartment  was  realized ; 
and  no  one  disturbed  us  either  last  night  or  to-day.  We  came  through 
to  Kimberley  in  quiet  enjoyment — taking  our  meals,  also,  in  it,  fur- 
nished from  a kitchen-car  attached.  This  you  will,  doubtless,  be  sur- 
prised to  hear,  coming  from  this  far  interior  of  South  Africa,  only  a 
few  years  ago  the  land  of  the  Wild  Beast,  the  Bushmen,  the  Kafir,  and 
the  Hottentot.  But  the  material  forces  which  have  made  our  Civili- 
zation, can  pick  it  up,  and,  with  the  boasted  power  of  Archimedes’ 
Lever,  move  the  World. 

During  the  night,  we  passed  to  the  Grahamstown  Junction,  through 
the  same  Country  we  traversed  on  our  visit  to  that  place,  and  about 
which  I have  already  written  enough;  with  my  fine  capacity  for 
sleep,  I lost  no  time.  Early  in  the  morning,  with  daylight,  having 
crossed  the  Snow  Bergen  and  Winterbergen  Range  we  were  two  hun- 
dred miles  on  our  way,  and  North  of  Cradock,  on  the  Plain  advancing 
to  the  Zum  Bergen  and  the  Storm  Bergen  Range,  which  lifted  itself 
in  many  fantastic  peaks  and  summits — the  level  Country  seeming  to 
me  to  be  an  Eastern  fringe  or  outskirt  of  the  Great  Barren  Desert, 
which  occupies  a large  share  of  South  Africa’s  Territory  and  History, 


PORT  ELIZABETH  TO  KIMBERLEY. 


421 


and  the  main  belt  of  which  we  will  cross  diagonally  on  our  travel 
from  Kimberley  to  Cape  Town.  No  sign,  of  cultivation  or  fertility 
appeared,  either  on  Plain  or  Mountain — only  stunted  grass  or  scrub, 
or  savage  rocks,  fixed  or  loose.  The  Mountains  were  interesting  in 
their  inhospitable  yet  picturesque  ruggedness  and  poverty.  In  their 
midst  a fog  came  down  upon  and  around  us,  with  the  suddenness  of 
a shadow,  and  lasting  for  half  an  hour  or  thereabouts,  as  suddenly 
drifted  away. 

Crossing  the  Range,  and  still  ascending,  as  we  had  been  doing 
more  or  less  continuously,  we  reached  another  of  the  Plateaus,  into 
which  the  whole  of  South  Africa  is  divided.  Here  the  Country  in 
its  rise  opens  widely,  the  Mountains  in  general  receding  across  the 
vast  Plateau,  leaving  hither  and  thither  remembrances  of  every  con- 
ceivable shape ; now,  finely  formed  and  proportioned  cones ; now, 
jagged  buttes;  now,  clumps  of  all  sorts  of  figures — many  times  in 
truncated  elevations  of  table  or  Mesa  shapes,  of  which,  from  what  I 
have  read,  I think  I will  find  an  admirable  sample  in  the  Table 
Mountain  at  the  Cape.  But  all  of  every  size  and  figure  and  degree, 
whether  standing  alone  upon  the  plain,  or  letting  down  into  it,  or 
bounding  the  horizon,  or  sinking  far  off  below  it — like  the  plain  itself 
without  the  vestige  of  a tree,  any  more  than,  you  remember,  I saw  in 
the  Andean  Country  of  Peru  : simply  yellow-tufted  grass  or  scrub, 
or  wretched-looking  rock,  or  naked  earth  or  sand ; yet,  the  clear,  pure 
atmosphere  throwing  over  the  land  and  sky  a vivid  brightness  that 
made  the  whole  a vision  of  beauty  : the  like  of  which,  you  remem- 
ber, in  our  own  New  Mexico  charmed  me,  though  a scene  of  deso- 
lation. 

In  many  places  the  Ant  Hills  covered  the  Country  far  and  near, 
similar  to  those  of  which  I have  written  elsewhere  in  South  African 
regions.  We  saw  in  the  earlier  part  of  the  day  some  Ostriches,  but 
not  nearly  the  number  we  observed  on  our  trip  to  Grahamstown.  We 
saw,  too,  flocks  of  Goats  and  Sheep,  and  some  herds  of  Cattle ; but 
the  sorry-looking  gi'ass  and  scrub  could  hardly  have  furnished  an 
abundant  pasture.  During  the  hours  of  daylight,  I think  I noticed 
only  two  areas  of  cultivated  ground,  and  they  barely  embracing  to- 
gether a hundred  acres.  The  habitations  of  the  Natives  were  sorrier 
than  the  Kafir  Kraals  we  visited  in  Natal — mere  excuses  for  a hut, 
patched  of  all  sorts  of  material,  not,  by  any  means,  enough  to  turn 
the  wind  and  rain.  Where  those  lived  who  owned  the  Stations  or 


422 


LETTER  NO.  18. 


Ranges  to  whfch  the  stock  belonged,  there  was  no  evidence  along  the 
Road. 

At  De  Aar,  three  hundred  and  thirty-eight  miles  from  Port  Eliza- 
beth, we  came  to  the  Junction  of  the  Road  to  Cape  Town,  and  met 
the  downward  Train,  and  about  Sunset  crossed  the  Orange  or  Nu 
Garieb  River  on  a long  Iron  Bridge.  The  water  was  low,  but  flowed 
in  a deep,  broad  channel,  showing  that  in  flood,  this  greatest  River  of 
South  Africa  is  worthy  of  its  name.  Later  on  we  crossed  the  Modder, 
an  affluent  of  the  Vaal : it,  in  turn,  the  main  affluent  of  the  Orange. 

It  was  half-past  eight  when  we  arrived,  and  in  these  Latitudes  at 
this  season,  more  than  two  hours  after  dark.  But  we  were  not  in- 
commoded. Having  telegraphed  for  Rooms,  the  Proprietor  met  us, 
and  we  were  brought  to  the  Hotel  in  a Carriage,  and  soon  were 
quartered  comfortably. 

Kimberley  is  four  hundred  and  eighty-five  miles  from  Port  Eliza- 
beth, and  a little  more  than  four  thousand  feet  above  the  Sea.  But 
the  Sky  was  cloudless  all  day,  and  the  atmosphere  cool,  and  having 
the  compartment  to  ourselves,  the  journey  was  not  fatiguing. 

Same  City  and  Hotel, 

Wednesday,  June  25,  1890. 

My  Chamber  window  opens  upon  the  Market  Square.  Early  in 
the  morning,  I observed,  it  was  full  of  wagons,  they  and  their  long 
teams  of  oxen,  with  their  phenomenally  long  and  widespread  horns, 
quite  filling  the  large  area  with  vehicles,  and  animals,  and  buyers, 
and  sellers,  and  their  commodities ; a busy  crowd.  I went  out  and 
moved  amongst  them.  I found  the  Market  consisted  of  vegetables, 
meats,  wood  of  slender  growth  done  up  in  bundles,  Indian  Corn, 
Kafir  Corn,  wool,  hides,  and  furniture — second  hand  and  new.  The 
wagons,  I observed,  were  generally  managed  by  Natives — mostly 
Hottentots — though  of  the  colored  people,  the  Kafirs  were  the  most 
numerous.  The  business  was  almost  altogether  done  by  whites. 

During  the  morning,  it  showered  slightly  and  settled  the  dust, 
which  before  was  disagreeable : the  soil  on  which  the  town  is  built 
being  pulverulent,  and  some  of  it  of  a reddish  hue,  reminding  me  of 
what  Albemarle  County  can  do,  when  she  tries,  in  the  articles  of  dust 
and  mud.  After  Breakfast,  we  walked  about  the  City.  It  claims 
twenty  to  thirty  thousand  people — brought  hither  by  the  Diamond 


KIMBERLEY. 


423 


mines,  said  to  be  the  lai’gest  and  finest  ever  discovered  on  the  earth. 
In  1869,  a Dutchman  purchased  a stone  from  a Griqua  native  for 
four  hundred  pounds — two  thousand  dollars — and  at  once  sold  it  for 
ten  thousand  pounds — fifty  thousand  dollars.  It  was  called  the  Star 
of  South  Africa,  and  is  now  the  property  of  the  Countess  of  Dudley, 
and  valued  at  twenty-five  thousand  pounds — one  hundred  and  twenty 
thousand  dollars — and  is  the  rival  of  the  most  splendid  Jewels  that 
adorn  the  Crowns  of  European  Monarchs.  The  fame  of  the  great 
Diamond  brought  a rush  of  people  to  this  region  in  1870-71 ; and 
passing  thi’ough  the  strifes  and  struggles  and  hardships  which  beset 
the  pathway  of  those  who  seek  for  Gold  and  Silver  and  Precious 
Stones,  this  City  of  Kimberley  is  the  result. 

We  found  the  town  what  we  anticipated — a suddenly  constructed 
affair — the  houses  mainly  built  of  corrugated  Iron,  though  there  were 
not  a few  of  brick  and  stone,  or  brick  plastered.  The  streets  have 
not  been  laid  out  with  any  regularity,  like  many  of  the  new  places 
one  comes  across  now-a-days : but  rather  like  the  old  Cities  were, 
according  to  the  contour  of  the  ground  in  their  normal  growth,  or  the 
demands  for  defence  against  foreign  enemies,  or  along  paths  which  the 
founders  made  when  they  went  afield,  or  those  of  the  sheep  and  cattle 
on  their  wanderings  to  and  fro.  Thus  was  Kimberley  planned : the 
streets  meeting  and  crossing  each  other  at  every  conceivable  angle — 
indicating  that  the  town  was  added  to  from  time  to  time  according  to 
the  demands  of  a rapidly  growing  population,  without  any  regard  to 
regularity  or  beauty.  Some  of  the  houses  and  shops  and  stores  indi- 
cate wealth — certainly  the  show  of  it ; but  that  may  be  only  the  un- 
healthy excitement  and  glitter  which  ever  attend  the  advent  of  the 
Gold  and  Jewel  fever. 

We  visited  a Curio  Shop,  and  I bought  a Hottentot  and,  also,  a 
Bushman  Bow  and  several  Arrows,  to  take  home  wdth  me : the 
former  is  quite  large  and  carefully  wrapped  with  hide,  and  the  arrows 
tipped  and  barbed  with  steel,  the  shafts  of  reed  or  bamboo;  the  latter 
a small  affair,  the  arrows  armed  with  bone  and  poisoned.  The  ugly, 
insignificant  Bushmen  are  a low  and  venomous  set,  and  use  poison 
on  the  weapons,  rather  than  force,  to  kill  both  their  enemies  and  their 
game.  I had  the  arrows  carefully  wrapped  in  canvass,  and  put  in  a 
native  quiver,  that  no  injuiy  could  result  to  anyone  handling  them. 
Thus,  I now  have  the  peculiar  weapons  of  all  the  aborigines,  in  all  the 
Countries  I have  visited  upon  this  Tour. 


424 


LETTER  NO.  18. 


We  had  a Letter  of  Introduction  from  our  young  friend  Betz  to 
Mr.  Gardner  Williams,  Manager  of  the  De  Beers  Consolidated  Dia- 
mond Company.  We  went  to  the  Office  of  the  De  Beers,  and  were 
introduced  to  Mr.  Williams,  who  received  us  most  cordially.  I 
learned  he  was  from  California,  and  Consular  Agent  of  the  United 
States  here,  and  we  were  soon  in  friendly  accord.  He  showed  us  in  the 
Office  great  numbers  of  Diamonds  of  various  sizes  and  values,  and 
one,  uncut,  larger  than  the  Koohinoor  which  shines  in  the  Crown  of 
the  British  Empire ; and  made  an  engagement  with  him  to  conduct 
us  through  the  mines  and  works  to-morrow,  inviting  us  to  dine  with 
him  and  his  family  thereafter.  This  latter  I declined,  giving  him  my 
stereotyped  reason. 

Near  by  his  Office,  is  the  Kimberley  or  Central  Mine — the  one  first 
discovered  and  used.  It  is  now  an  immense  funnel-shaped  hole,  not 
unlike  the  Crater  of  a Volcano.  The  works  here  are  temporarily 
stopped,  an  accident  in  the  shaft  having  occurred,  and  operations 
postponed  for  repairs.  The  digging  upon  the  site  making  a deep 
conical  cavity,  and  the  sides  from  time  to  time  giving  way,  we 
have  this  huge  cavity,  of  which  I have  spoken,  situated  right  in 
or  upon  the  suburbs  of  the  town.  To-morrow  we  will  understand, 
by  personal  inspection,  better  the  modus  operandi  of  gathering  the 
precious  things. 

Whilst  at  Mr.  Williams’  Office,  he  introduced  us  to  Mr.  Seymour, 
of  the  family  of  Governor  Horatio,  a young  gentleman  from  the  State 
of  New  York,  connected  with  the  company  as  Mechanical  Engineer. 
He  and  his  wife,  recently  married,  are  boarding  at  the  same  Hotel 
with  ourselves,  and  nice  people  they  seem  to  be.  He,  too,  tendered 
his  services  in  any  way  to  show  us  the  objects  of  interest;  thus,  you 
see,  with  my  usual  good  fortune,  I am  greatly  favored. 

In  the  afternoon,  Mr.  Nead  and  I again  wandered  about  the  town, 
prospecting  the  objects  of  interest,  in  its  course  witnessing  a Tennis 
game  and  a Football  on  the  Rugby  plan,  which  afforded  us  amuse- 
ment for  a half  hour  or  thereabouts ; they  were  between  rival  com- 
panies of  the  young  men  of  Kimberley,  and  well  done. 

A pleasant  talk  with  Mr.  Seymour  and  his  wife,  after  Dinner, 
ended  the  day. 


KIMBERLEY— DIAMOND  MINES. 


425 


Same  City  and  Hotel, 

Thursday,  June  26,  1890. 

This  has  been  a profitable  and  interesting  day,  visiting  the  great 
De  Beers  Diamond  Mine. 

We  drove  to  the  spot,  a mile  or  two  distant,  in  a spring  two-wheel 
Dog  Cart,  drawn  by  two  excellent  horses,  the  tongue  sustained  by 
straps  passing  over  the  horses’  necks  near  the  shoulder — a delightful 
conveyance,  containing  four  seats,  one  by  the  driver,  and  two  behind, 
with  a falling  top. 

We  were  met  by  Mr.  Williams,  who  had  made  aiTangements  for 
our  thorough  inspection  of  the  enterprise,  and  all  things  were  ready. 
The  Chief  Operator  was  there,  to  go  with  us  down  the  shaft  and  con- 
duct us  through.  Mrs.  Nead  was  afraid  to  attempt  the  descent,  and 
equally  afraid  for  her  husband  to  go.  I was  not.  There  were  gar- 
ments ready  for  us,  and  I changed  my  coat  and  put  on  an  old  slouch 
hat,  a pair  of  high  gum  boots,  and  with  my  Guide,  getting  into  a 
rough  box,  we  were,  by  a steam  cable,  let  down  an  incline  to  a depth 
of  seven  hundred  feet  below  the  surface  of  the  earth,  lighted  at  sevei’al 
landing  places  by  electricity.  The  run  was  on  an  excellent  railway, 
and  smooth  enough. 

Upon  reaching  the  bottom  of  the  Mine,  we  walked  along  the  tun- 
nels— some  sustained  by  the  rock  through  which  it  had  been  dug, 
some  by  heavy  timbers,  trams  laid  through  them  all,  on  which  iron 
trucks  conveyed  the  Diamond  earth  to  the  spot  where  we  landed, 
whence  it  was  carried,  also,  by  steam  cable,  on  another  incline  to  the 
surface  of  the  ground  above.  The  original  find  here  was  not  unlike 
that  of  the  Kimberley  or  Central  Mine  of  which  I yesterday  spoke, 
and  the  work  in  it  produced  the  same  result — an  immense  funnel- 
shaped,  crater-like  depression,  in  which,  by  the  constantly  falling  in 
of  the  sides,  it  became  unsafe  longer  to  carry  on  operations.  Hence, 
the  shaft  was  sunk  down  some  distance  otf,  which  we  descended,  and 
from  its  bottom,  galleries  or  tunnels  were  carried  to  the  Diamonds, 
below  the  depression  just  spoken  of. 

From  the  main  drift,  side  tunnels  of  a similar  character  are  dug. 
Thus,  probably,  in  visiting  them  we  made  a mile  of  distance.  The 
Diamonds  are  hid  away  in  a bluish  earth  and  stone,  which  is  exca- 
vated and  conveyed  by  the  trams  to  the  mouth  of  the  Mine.  The 


426 


LETTER  NO.  18. 


walk  was  through  mud  and  slush,  and  I would  have  been  in  a sorry 
condition  very  soon  but  for  the  old  coat  and  hat  and  the  indispensable 
gum  boots. 

Nearly  all  the  workmen  were  half  or  quite  naked  Kafirs,  who,  by 
the  light  of  the  electricity  or  the  candles  carried  by  my  Guide,  were 
a ghastly-looking  crew;  but,  nevertheless,  a strong,  fine  lot,  and  their 
ugly,  amiable  faces  shone  with  sweat  and  good  nature.  There  were  a 
few  white  men,  also,  and  a few  Hottentots,  and  one  little  Bushman — 
a young  chap,  who,  though  well  formed,  as  his  scant  clothing  showed, 
looked  modest  and  retiring  wdien  my  Guide  pointed  him  out  to  me. 

Returning  by  the  incline  to  the  light  of  the  Sun  again,  I found 
Mr.  Williams  and  my  friends  waiting  for  me.  He  showed  us  how 
the  earth  and  stone  brought  from  below  were  taken  on  trucks  or  horse 
trams  to  open  fields  and  spread  out  broadcast  upon  level  and  smoothed 
out  areas,  subjected  to  the  action  of  the  weather,  by  which  it  was  dis- 
integrated into  loose  material.  The  Diamonds  are  found  mixed 
scatteringly  through  a bluish  earth,  which  sometimes  assumes  the 
consistency  of  stone — not  unlike  in  appearance  our  blue  lime  stone. 
This  needs  no  breaking,  but  when  exposed  in  thick  layers  to  the 
sun  and  rain,  disintegrates,  and  surrenders  its  precious  contents.  To 
further  facilitate  their  extraction,  a harrow  is  after  a while  run  over 
the  field  and  then  a roller,  further  reducing  the  rock  to  loose  stuff. 

It  is  then  carried  to  the  Washers — all  propelled  by  steam — and 
passed  through  water  in  cylinders  and  basins  : the  heavier  material 
not  yet  thoroughly  disintegrated  is  taken  back  to  the  field  and  again 
exposed — the  lighter  is  thoroughly  sifted,  and  in  passing  through 
cylinders  of  various  sized  openings,  and  by  its  own  specific  gravity, 
the  Diamond-bearing  earth  is  winnowed  into  four  or  five  different 
sizes  and  thoroughly  examined,  and  the  Jewels  extracted  by  hand. 
This  is  whilst  the  material  is  wet  from  the  washers.  When  dry,  it 
is  submitted  to  another  examination,  generally,  I observed,  Negro 
convicts,  who  are  allowed  a per  cent  of  all  they  find — which  is  so 
profitable,  that  many  of  them,  when  their  term  of  imprisonment 
expires,  have  a considerable  sum  to  their  credit.  The  examination 
takes  place  on  tables,  at  which  the  men  sit  or  stand,  and  with  a piece 
of  sharpened  iron  like  a blade,  spread  out  the  rough  material,  and 
the  Diamond  is  easily  detected  by  its  bright  gleam. 

Of  course,  many  are  stolen,  and  never  recovered  ; but  by  the  strict 
vigilance  and  detective  system,  fewer  are  stolen  than  formerly,  and 


KIMBERLEY— DIAMOND  MINES. 


427 


many  are  recovered.  The  thief  sometimes  cuts  his  flesh  and  buries 
the  Jewel  in  the  wound ; sometimes  hides  it  in  his  hair  or  scant 
clothing  : often  swallows  it.  Different  modes  have  been  adopted  for 
the  detection  of  the  thief  and  the  recovery  of  the  stolen  treasure — the 
last,  undergoing  medical  treatment,  and  under  it  surrendei’ing  the 
hid  treasure  whether  he  wants  to  or  not.  Mr.  Williams  said  he  had 
known  a Kafir  swallow  a Diamond  large  as  the  end  of  his  thumb, 
and  jagged  and  rough,  risking  his  life  in  the  venture — but  both  he 
and  the  Diamond  saved  by  the  efBcacy  of  a cathartic. 

The  theory  of  the  Scientist  with  regard  to  the  formation  of  the 
Diamond  is,  that  it  is  the  result  of  Volcanic  forces — Carbonic  Acid 
consolidated  by  enormous  heat  and  pressure ; and  they  think  these 
Finds  confirm  their  theory.  They  seem  to  be  in  perpendicular  columns, 
as  it  were,  the  central  action  of  Volcanic  agencies  : for  the  stones  are 
found  not  to  diminish,  maybe  to  increase,  in  size  and  number  with 
the  descent  into  the  shaft.  Hence,  the  owners  have  hope,  that  their 
investment  will  not  lessen  in  value,  nor  be  exhausted,  but  rather  grow 
as  they  penetrate  deeper  towards  the  earth’s  central  fires.  Certainly, 
to  this  time,  they  have  had  no  cause  of  apprehension. 

This  is  the  greatest  Diamond  Find  the  World  has  ever  known — 
by  far.  There  are  four  mines  at  present  uncovered : the  Kimberley, 
the  Du  Toitspan,  the  De  Beers,  and  the  Bultfonteiu.  Kimberley  was 
the  first,  and  the  others  followed  in  sequence — all  in  easy  reach  of 
each  other.  The  land  is  owned  by  the  Government,  and  the  Com- 
pany operating  the  Mines  pays  a ground  rent,  amounting  to  about 
fifteen  dollars  per  acre  a year.  They  were  in  the  hands  of  separate 
individuals  and  companies,  but  recently  the  De  Beers  has  bought  the 
entire  or  controlling  interest  in  all  of  them,  and  the  whole  concern, 
with  the  exception  of  a few  individuals  who  would  not  sell,  is  operated 
under  the  name  of  the  De  Beers  Consolidated  Company,  Limited — 
assuming  the  name  of  the  old  Farmer  who  owned  the  Land  on  which 
the  Mines  were  discovered. 

This  Company  has  the  monopoly,  therefore,  of  the  mining  of  Dia- 
monds in  South  Africa,  and  controls  the  output,  and  hence,  by  virtue 
of  its  enormous  yield,  the  Market  of  the  World.  It  now  employs 
about  eight  thousand  men,  of  whom  an  average  of  a hundred  are 
killed  in  the  works  annually.  Its  Capital  is  nearly  four  millions  of 
Pounds — twenty  millions  of  dollars — the  shares  at  five  Pounds  par 
value.  The  shares  are  selling  for  seventeen,  so  that  at  market  value 


428 


LETTER  NO.  18. 


the  Company  represents  an  investment  of  seventy  to  eighty  millions 
of  dollars.  One  third  of  the  Diamonds  gathered  are  sold  in  the  United 
States.  Mr.  Williams,  though  born  at  Saginaw,  Michigan,  and  hail- 
ing from  California,  was  operating  in  the  Transvaal ; but  accepting 
service  here,  and  being  instrumental  in  securing  Capital  in  London 
and  Europe  for  the  consolidation,  and  successful  and  efficient,  is  now 
the  Superintendent — a responsible  and,  I should  think,  a handsome 
and  lucrative  position. 

Taking  me  in  his  own  Cart,  and  my  friends  retaining  the  one  we 
hired,  he  drove  us  about  the  works,  and  when  we  had  finished  our 
investigations  there,  to  Kenilworth,  a village  for  the  White  operatives, 
built  by  the  Company,  after  the  fashion  of  Pullman,  near  Chicago, 
and  Saltaire  in  Yorkshire,  England,  of  which  I told  you  something 
on  my  First  and  Second  Tours.  Kenilworth  is  built  of  brick — houses 
for  families  and  single  men — a Boarding  House  for  the  latter — a 
Club  House,  with  Library  and  Reading  Room ; Mr.  W.  thinks  a 
good  investment,  both  for  the  Company  and  the  workmen.  It  is 
within  easy  distance  of  the  Mine,  on  part  of  a large  tract  of  many 
thousand  acres  of  land  bought  from  the  Government  by  the  Company. 
The  site  of  the  Mine,  however,  is  still  owned  by  the  Government,  for 
which  the  Company,  as  I have  said,  pays  rent,  being  regarded  by  the 
Governmental  Authorities  as  a good  investment. 

We  then  drove  back  to  the  Hotel;  thus  ending  our  pleasant  and 
instructive  visit  to  one  of  the  most  remarkable  Industries  on  the 
Globe. 

Same  City  and  Hotel, 

Friday,  June  27,  1890. 

To-day,  I simply  walked  about  the  City,  observing  its  lay  and  its 
people. 

In  my  stroll,  I passed  again  the  huge  cavity  of  the  Kimberley  or 
Central  Mine,  and  wondered  how  it  had  been  made  by  the  removal 
and  sifting  of  every  handful  of  its  earth,  in  the  greedy  search  for 
gain  ; how  many  men  had  found  graves  therein,  whose  names  were 
scarcelv  known  in  their  obscurity,  and  whose  deaths  were  unrecorded ! 
Yesterday,  two  Kafirs  were  killed  by  falling  rocks — but  what  of 
that? — how  many  more  have  lost  their  character  and  fortune,  and 
ultimately  their  lives,  in  gambling  in  its  contents!  Near  its  cavernous 
mouth  are  shops,  about  which  excited  crowds  from  the  whole  World 


KIMBERLEY. 


429 


are  gathered,  speculating  in  its  glittering  yield — which,  if  it  should 
fail,  would  send  consternation  among  them,  and  convert  the  busy 
City  they  have  built  into  a wretched  waste  and  ruin.  Silver  and 
Gold  and  Diamond  Mines  do  not  yield  happiness  and  contentment 
with  their  precious  contents,  nor  make  those  “men,  high-minded  men, 
who  constitute  a State.” 

Same  City  and  Hotel, 

Saturday,  June  28,  1890. 

We  met  at  Breakfast  a gentleman  by  the  name  of  George  F.  Wolfe, 
who  has  once  resided  in  our  Country.  He  is  an  Englishman,  and 
has  spent  most  of  his  life  abroad,  engaged,  I infer,  in  speculation,  and 
his  experiences  have  rubbed  off  the  native  provincialism  of  the  little 
Island  and  made  him  broad-minded  and  agreeable — as  I have  found 
it  nearly  always  does  the  British  gentleman.  We  had  much  agree- 
able talk  about  his  Country  and  mine,  and  about  this  South  African 
region,  where  he  has  resided  and  travelled  in  its  various  parts,  and 
at  one  time  represented  Kimberley  in  the  Parliament  of  the  Cape 
Colonies. 

We  cannot  get  away  till  next  Tuesday  morning,  there  being  only 
one  Express  Sleeping-Car  Train  a week  from  this  place  to  Cape  Town. 
Monday  would  be  an  idle  day,  unless  we  could  find  some  mode  of 
utilizing  it  outside  of  Kimberley ; and  the  Railroad  being  finished 
nearly  fifty  miles  beyond.  Northward,  though  not  open  for  passengers 
and  traffic,  we  determined,  if  possible,  to  get  permission  to  go  thus  far, 
on  any  Train  that  might  be  running.  This  will  enable  me  to  see  more 
of  the  Country,  and  utilize  what  would  otherwise  be  wasted  time. 
Mr.  Wolfe  said  he  knew  Mr.  Dalton,  the  Chief  Engineer,  very  well, 
and  would  give  us  a Letter,  requesting  him  to  pass  us  over  the  Road, 
and  was  quite  sure  he  would  gladly  comply. 

Mr.  Nead  and  I,  after  Breakfast,  went  to  the  Station  and  saw  the 
Station  Master  with  regard  to  our  compartment  next  Tuesday,  who 
said  he  would  reserve  one  for  our  especial  use,  as  we  had  coming  up ; 
and  telling  him  we  wanted  to  see  Mr.  Dalton,  and  our  object,  offered 
to  go  with  and  show  us  his  residence,  some  distance  off.  We  found 
him  in,  and  receiving  us  courteously,  cheerfully  gave  us  the  pass  for 
four — we  having  invited  Mrs.  Seymour  to  join  us  in  the  expedition, 
her  husband,  by  reason  of  his  engagements,  being  unable  to  go.  He 
said,  also,  if  possible,  he  would  accompany  and  render  us  all  the  help 


430 


LETTER  NO.  18. 


in  his  power  to  make  the  trip  profitable  and  pleasant.  This  was  very 
kind. 

In  the  afternoon,  we,  together  with  Mrs.  Seymour,  whom  we 
invited  to  join  us,  visited  the  Du  Toitspan  and  Bultfontein — pro- 
nounced Bultfonteen — Mines,  three  miles  distant  by  Tram.  We 
preferred  this  to  Carriage,  the  Car  being  open,  and  affording  us  an 
excellent  view  of  the  surroundings.  In  reaching  the  objects  of  our 
trip,  we  passed  through  the  towns  of  Beaconsfield  and  Du  Toitspan — 
the  Mines  being  at  the  farther  end  of  the  latter. 

The  towns  themselves  run  into  each  other,  as  the  suburbs  of  Kim- 
berley extend  into  those  of  Beaconsfield,  the  three  being  in  close  con- 
tiguity. They  are  built  upon  a Plain,  wide  extending  beyond  their 
site, — of  red  earth,  from  which  adobe  bricks  have  been  made,  that 
constitute  most  of  the  fences  and  buildings  of  both  towns — often  they 
are  plastered  Avith  the  same  red  mud ; the  other  houses  are  constructed 
of  burnt  brick  and  corrugated  iron.  In  their  plan  they  are  entirely 
different  from  Kimberley  : the  streets  being  wide  and  cutting  each 
other  at  right  angles,  which — the  houses  being  generally  of  only  one 
story  and  spread  out  over  a large  area — gives  the  place  a very  flat 
appearance ; and  with  scant  trees  and  shrubbery,  they  can  hardly  be 
called  handsome  toAvns.  The  number  of  inhabitants,  when  the  houses 
were  occupied,  claimed  to  be  from  ten  to  twelve  thousand  : a spon- 
taneous mining  population,  dependent  absolutely  for  existence  upon 
the  contents  of  the  Crater-shaped  holes  in  the  ground  upon  their 
suburbs. 

Leaving  the  Car,  we  walked  to  the  Mines,  not  far  from  each  other. 
They  are  both  immense  cavities,  like  Kimberley : the  Bultfontein  is 
especially  like  it  in  the  regularity  of  its  funnel  formation ; the  Du 
Toitspan  is  larger  than  either  in  area,  being  cresent-shaped  and  equally 
deep.  The  mining  in  both  is  mainly  surface,  and  from  their  rims 
the  workmen  can  be  seen,  working  far  beloAV  and  sending  the  earth, 
when  dug,  to  the  ground  above  by  iron  buckets  carried  on  steam  wire 
cables  and  then  disposed  of  as  described  at  the  De  Beers. 

This  afternoon  there  were  not  many  at  work,  and  the  Mines 
emptied ; the  streets  were  full,  employed  in  what  usually  occupies 
the  Kafirs  when  enjoying  themselves  most — gabbling,  laughing, 
lounging,  drinking,  and  lapsing  more  and  more  into  the  worthless. 

The  effect  of  a cessation  of  work  upon  the  towns,  their  outgrowth, 
has  been  seriously  felt.  The  De  Beers  Company  owns  the  largest 


It 


KIMBERLEY— DIAMOND  MINES.  431 

interest  in  both  ; other  smaller  interests,  I have  before  remarked,  are 
held  by  Companies  and  individuals.  The  latter  continue  to  operate ; 
the  former  have  shut  down  for  some  time,  thus  controlling  the  Mar- 
ket in  Diamonds  by  diminished  supply.  The  effect  is  the  dismissal 
of  many  hundreds  of  hands,  and  the  withdrawal  of  their  expenditures. 
The  result  has  been,  of  course,  most  disastrous  to  the  towns  in  the 
depreciation  of  values,  resulting  in  great  panic  and  loss.  Many  of  the 
houses  are  vacant,  and  much  property  for  sale,  and  Beaconsfield  and 
Du  Toitspan  are  in  a crisis. 

Should  the  Diamonds  fail,  or  the  Mines  greatly  diminish  in  out- 
put, tliose  towns  and  Kimberly  would  soon  become  miserable  wrecks 
of  once,  apparently,  prosperous  places  ; for  the  surrounding  Country, 
agriculturally,  could  not  support  them. 

We  returned  by  the  Tram,  and  after  Dinner,  spent  together  several 
hours  in  chat. 

Same  City  and  Hotel, 

Sunday,  June  29,  1890. 

I intended  to  have  gone  to  Church  this  morning;  but  learning,  on 
inquiry,  that  there  would  be  no  preaching  anywhere  that  would  be 
apt  to  instruct  or  entertain  me,  I determined  to  spend  my  time  quietly 
in  my  Chamber. 

During  the  morning,  Mr.  Wolfe  called  at  my  Room  and  invited 
me  to  join  him  in  a stroll.  In  our  walk  we  passed  some  of  the  Dia- 
mond Shops,  and  Mr.  Wolfe  knowing  the  Proprietors,  took  me  in 
and  introduced  me.  They  were  all,  I think,  without  exception, 
Israelites,  and  politely  brought  out  their  hid  treasures  and  spread 
before  me  the  brilliant  creatures,  of  every  size,  and  shape,  and  value. 
On  one  of  the  tables  was  displayed  wealth  to  the  amount  of  several 
hundred  thousand  dollars. 

The  Companies  sell  directly  to  these  dealers;  they  forward  to  Eng- 
land and  Europe  by  mail,  insured  by  the  Banks.  It  is  the  I’arest 
thing  in  the  World,  that  any  of  them  are  stolen  in  the  transmission  ; 
and  equally  rare,  when  sent  across  the  Country  in  Bullock  Wagons 
or  Post  Stages. 

Walking  on,  we  visited  the  Club  House,  of  which  Kimberley  is 
proud,  and  deservedly  so,  I think.  It  is  a large  two-story  brick 
building,  with  verandahs  above  and  below,  and  contains  sleeping 
apartments  for  the  members,  and  a Restaurant,  Reading  Room, 


432 


LETTER  NO.  18. 


Library,  and*  Billiard  Boom ; altogether  a nice  affair.  He  intro- 
duced me  to  a number  of  the  members,  who  welcomed  me  to  their 
liberties,  and  with  some  of  them  I had  pleasant  talk  about  their  New 
Country  and  its  prospects. 

I learned  that  the  output  of  the  four  Mines,  year  before  last,  was 
3,646,702  carats,  of  the  value  of  £4,033,332 — more  than  twenty 
millions  of  dollars — and  the  number  of  persons  killed,  one  hundred 
and  thirty-three.  I have  not  the  data  for  last  year;  but  everybody 
in  and  out  of  the  concern  seems  satisfied  that  the  Mines  are  inex- 
haustible, and  for  generations  yet  to  come,  will  pour  out  their  shining 
wealth. 

Strange  to  say,  these  Mines  differ  in  the  kind  of  Diamonds  they 
respectively  yield.  Some  of  the  dealers  told  me  they  could  recognize 
the  stones,  and  from  several  piles  on  the  tables  picked  out  those  of 
each  and  showed  me  their  peculiarities.  But  none  of  them  could  inform 
me  by  what  process  they  were  formed  in  Nature’s  Laboratory,  and 
said  the  Scientists,  so-called,  could  tell,  with  certainty,  no  more. 

In  the  afternoon,  Mr.  Seymour  took  Mr.  Nead  and  myself  to  visit 
the  Compound — a large  space  enclosed  by  a high  corrugated  Iron 
fence,  in  close  proximity  to  the  Du  Toitspan  Mine.  This  is  the  place 
for  the  accommodation  of  the  Kafir  laborers.  They  are  employed 
under  contract  for  four  months,  renewable  at  the  pleasure  of  the 
Kafir.  During  the  engagement  the  Kafirs  are  kept  in  this  Com- 
pound, and  marched,  under  guard,  thence  daily  to  their  work.  This 
is  done  to  avoid  contact  with,  and  corruption  by  the  outsiders,  which 
would  be  ruinous  to  their  employers,  engaged  in  such  precious  and 
easily-concealed  commodities.  At  the  expiration  of  their  term  of 
service,  they  are  examined  and  watched,  and  before  they  leave  are 
compelled  to  disgorge  any  suspected  gain,  by  processes  I have  already 
described. 

Admitted  to  the  Compound,  we  called  upon  Mr.  Ward,  who  has 
them  in  charge,  and  were  escorted  by  him  over  the  grounds.  We 
were  in  the  midst  of  about  two  thousand  Kafirs,  in  every  stage  of 
dress  or  undress — individuals  from  almost  every  part  of  their  domain 
in  South  Africa  Northward  to  Delagoa  Bay.  Though  regarded  and 
recognized  members  of  different  tribes,  they  are  individually  the  same 
Negro  Race,  and  with  identical  characteristics,  only  modified  by 
different  climate  and  contingencies  of  life. 


KIMBERLEY. 


433 


They  wei’e  engaged  difiFerently  in  different  parts  of  the  Compound : 
some  gambling  with  cards  ; some  with  games  unknown  to  me  ; some 
stretched  out  in  the  Sun,  fast  asleep;  some  smoking  segars,  the  lighted 
part  in  their  month,  inhaling  and  driving  the  smoke  through  their 
nostrils ; some  gathered  in  groups,  all  talking  at  once ; some  around 
a Missionary  playing  on  a portable  Organ,  accompanying  it  with  his 
voice — but  whatever  a-doing,  each  and  every  one  in  good  humor,  and 
shewing  his  white  teeth  from  time  to  time  in  laughter — a jolly  set, 
caring  apparently  nothing  for  the  comforts  of  the  Civilization  around 
them. 

This  morning,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Williams  sent  us  invitations  to  dine 
with  them  on  Monday ; but  the  preparations  we  had  made  to  go  out 
on  the  Rail  prevented,  and  we  thus  replied.  But  we  determined  to 
call  and  pay  our  respects.  On  our  way  to  his  house,  we  were  met 
by  his  Carriage,  and  were  told  that  Mr.  Williams  had  been  to  see 
us  at  the  Hotel,  and  hearing  we  were  at  the  Compound  had  sent  the 
conveyance  to  take  us  to  his  home.  We  found  him  and  Mrs.  Wil- 
liams there,  and  spent  a while  pleasantly. 

You  remember,  on  the  Steamer  from  New  Zealand  to  Tasmania,  I 
fell  in  with  Mr.  Gibson,  who  gave  me  a Letter  to  Mr.  Norrie,  living 
here.  I learned  that  Mr.  Norrie  is  the  Superintendent  of  the  Public 
Schools  aud  a man  of  high  standing,  and  that  he  lived  within  a few 
yards  of  Mr.  Williams’.  I determined  to  step  over  and  deliver  the 
Letter,  not  because  it  was  a Letter  of  Introduction,  but  because  it 
contained  friendly  salutations  between  the  two  friends.  But  he  was 
not  in  and  I simply  left  the  Letter  for  him,  saying  I was  about  to 
leave  town  aud  regretted  we  could  not  meet. 

On  our  walk  home,  the  afternoon  was  so  pleasant,  we  lingei’ed  to 
enjoy  its  temj^erature,  and  to  witness  the  young  Moon  and  the  Even- 
ing Star  divide  with  the  radiance  of  the  Setting  Sun,  the  dominion 
of  the  Sky. 

I will  close  this  Letter  now,  that  it  may  go  on  the  next  Steamer. 
I will  leave  Cape  Town  on  the  9th  of  July  for  Southampton,  Eng- 
land. I long  for  Cape  Town  and  my  Letters,  which,  I hope,  have 
gathered  there  from  you  all. 

I write  in  haste  these  closing  lines  for  the  Mail. 

With  tenderest  love  for  all, 

F. 


28 


434 


LETTER  NO.  19. 


[No.  19.] 


Kimberley,  South  Africa,  Grand  Hotel, 

Monday,  June  30,  1890. 


3fy  Dear  Taylor, — 


I finished  No.  18  to  Mary  yesterday. 

This  morning,  according  to  agreement,  we  were  at  the  Station  in 
due  time.  We  found  other  and  better  arrangements  made  for  us. 
Instead  of  going  in  a Caboose,  a handsome  Car  was  ready  to  convey 
us.  Mr.  Dalton,  the  Chief  Engineer,  was  there  with  his  wife,  to 
wliom  he  introduced  us,  and  who  made  one  of  the  party  on  the  Ex- 
cursion. He,  also,  made  us  acquainted  with  Mr.  Stejihens,  the  Chief 
Superintendent  of  Motive  Power  of  the  whole  Line,  on  a tour  of 
Inspection  ; he  had  with  him  several  Ladies  of  his  own  family,  all  of 
whom  went  with  us,  making  quite  a large  and  pleasant  party. 

AVe  had  Lunch  and  Refreshments,  and  regaled  ourselves  during 
the  Journey,  at  the  proper  time.  The  terminus  of  the  run  was 
Eourteen  Streams,  on  the  River  Vaal — the  principal  affluent  of  the 
Orange — distant  forty-seven  and  one-half  miles  from  Kimbei’ley. 
This  section  of  the  Road  is  new,  and  just  finished  for  traffic;  to-mor- 
row will  be  the  first  day  for  regular  transportation  of  jiassengers  and 
freight.  The  Road  is  a projection  of  the  through  Line  North  from 
Kimberley,  through  Griqua  Land  AVest,  Mashona  and  Matabele 
Lands,  without,  at  present,  any  definite  terminus — simply  to  afford 
access  and  outlet  to  and  from  the  regions  known,  or  supposed,  to 
have  deposits  of  precious  stones  and  metals. 

The  Country  over  which  we  passed  was  without  any  attractions — 
generally  level,  with  sorry-looking  grass  or  scrub,  and  not  only  wdth- 
out  any  cultivation,  but  presenting  no  Agricultural  promise.  Surely, 
if  there  be  no  products  beyond,  the  Railroad  now  building  will  be 
a poor  investment.  AVe  saw  some  Sheep  and  Cattle ; but  I should 
think  it  a scant  Range  for  either.  The  only  habitations  I observed 
were  the  Stations  and  the  wretched  Huts  of  the  Natives — not  built 
with  some  architectural  skill  like  the  Kafir  Kraals,  of  which  I have 
told  you  ; but  simply  patched  up  coverings  of  sticks  and  stones  and 
straw  and  old  clothes,  representing  only  discomfort  and  filth. 


KIMBERLEY. 


435 


We  crossed  the  Vaal  River  on  a temporary  Bridge,  to  supply  the 
traffic  demands,  till  the  permanent  Iron  structure  is  completed.  In 
crossing  it,  I observed  whence  and  how  the  place  earned  the  name  of 
the  Fourteen  Streams.  The  River  is  subject  to  great  variations  : in 
some  seasons,  as  now,  a small  current  finding  its  way  through  a large 
channel ; at  other  seasons  filled  with  a rushing  River.  At  certain 
stages  the  water  cuts  its  passage  through  the  alluvium  in  many 
streams — to  compare  small  things  with  great,  not  unlike  the  Dalles, 
where  the  Columbia  has  cut  those  wonderful  channels  through  the 
solid  rock.  The  careful  observer  says  he  can  count  fourteen  here — 
hence  the  name. 

Mr.  Stephens  and  Mr.  Dalton  made  themselves  both  instructive 
and  agreeable,  talking  of  the  Country  and  things  connected  with  it, 
and  calling  our  attention  to  objects  along  the  way.  At  one  time  Ave 
saw  a herd  of  Bush  Bucks  bounding  over  the  distant  Plains.  They 
told  me,  as  I had  heard  before,  that  they  and  other  Deer  of  the  same 
or  kindred  species  are  very  numerous.  Yet,  through  all  these  regions. 
Lions  and  Tigers  and  most  of  the  wild  beasts  have  been  destroyed  or 
driven  Northward  by  the  advance  of  Civilization.  I thought,  from 
information  gathered,  that  the  Elephants  were  few,  and  confined  by 
Legal  protection  to  a narroAV  area ; but  this  morning’s  paper  stated, 
that  sixty  or  seventy  of  them  were  seen  and  put  to  flight  by  the  out- 
going Train  from  Port  Elizabeth,  not  more  than  thirty  or  forty  miles 
from  that  City,  in  the  thicket  region,  of  which,  I think,  I spoke  on 
our  ride  to  Grahamstown. 

The  trip  was  altogether  an  enjoyable  one.  We  stopped  now  and 
then,  the  day  being  beautiful,  and  getting  out,  observed  the  Country 
and  the  Natives,  engaged  as  workmen  on  the  Road.  Leaving  at  eight 
o’clock,  it  Avas  after  dark  when  we  returned,  and  the  Electric  plants 
at  the  Mines  lighted  up  the  Sky  like  an  Illumination. 

We  start  for  Cape  ToAvn  to-morroAv. 

[This  Road,  as  I have  already  said,  is  projected  beyond  Griqua 
Land  West  and  the  Transvaal,  or  South  American  Republic,  the 
present  resting  place  of  the  Boers,  into  the  Matabele  and  Mashona 
Country — at  present  Avithout  any  certainly-settled  terminus.  These 
last  tAvo  are  spoken  of  by  Travellers  and  Archaeologists  as  among  the 
richest  and  most  beautiful  in  the  World.  They  have  besides  a touch 
of  Romance  in  their  history ; many,  who  from  their  studies  ought 


436 


LETTER  NO.  19. 


to  know,  declaring  them  to  be  the  ancient  Ophir,  whence  Solomon 
brought  the  Gold  and  Precious  Stones  for  his  famous  Temple,  and 
the  Queen  of  Sheba  gathered  the  treasures  with  which  she  made  rich 
or  beguiled  the  Man  of  Wisdom ; like  the  fascinating  Dido  did  before 
her,  the  “Pius”  ^neas,  on  his  way  to  found  the  Roman  Empire; 
or  our  good  Mother  Eve,  the  unwary  and  confiding  Father  of  the 
Human  Family.  Certainly,  the  Architectural  remains  indicate  great 
wealth  and  advancement.  Yet,  they  make  no  word  or  sign  of  expla- 
nation ; but  are  as  oblivious  and  deserted  as  the  Uxmal  Ruins  of 
Yucatan,  and  more  voiceless  than  the  Pyramids. 

But  theories  with  regard  to  such  Finds  are  always  in  order,  and 
the  more  far-fetched  and  romantic,  the  more  interesting.  These 
Countries  are  yet  comparatively  unexplored,  but  of  late  years  have 
atti’acted  considerable  attention,  and  to  save  myself  the  trouble  of 
much  writing,  I will  here  insert  some  extracts  from  the  Papers  of  the 
Day,  to  put  down  very  briefly,  in  passing,  the  extent  of  knowledge 
up  to  the  time  of  the  printing  of  these  Letters. 

“SOLOMON’S  MINES. 


Europeans  Stumble  upon  Ruins  op  an  African  Civilization. 

Haggard’s  Story  not  a Myth — A Population  which  Dug  the 
Gold  for  the  Sjdendors  of  Ancient  Jerusalem. 

[New  York  World.'] 

All  those  who  have  read  Rider  Haggard’s  graphic  description  of 
King  Solomon’s  Mines  will  be  interested  to  know  that  the  Mines  in 
question,  far  from  being  merely  a product  of  that  writer’s  fertile 
imagination,  are  a reality,  and  that  within  a few  weeks  they  have 
been  traced  and  discovered  by  the  Mashonaland  Expedition  of  the 
English  Southeast  African  Company. 

Zinbabye,  an  ancient  city  in  Mashonaland,  was  visited  many  years 
ao'o  by  the  German  traveller  Mauch,  but  he  did  not  appear  to  have 
any  knowledge  of  the  existence  of  Gold  Mines,  nor  did  he  offer  any 
hypothesis  as  to  the  ancient  people  who  had  inhabited  the  city.  The 
next  occasion  of  its  being  visited  by  Europeans  was  a few  weeks  ago, 
when  some  members  of  the  British  South  Africa  Company’s  pioneer 


■SOLOMON’S  mines: 


437 


force  stumbled  upon  the  ruins,  which  lie  at  the  base  of  a striking 
and  precipitous  clilf  of  “ kopie.”  An  outer  wall  about  four  feet  high 
runs  apparently  around  the  entire  “ kopie,”  but  owing  to  a dense 
jungle  this  wall  could  not  be  traced  further  than  half  a mile.  Next 
came  indications  of  a second  and  inner  wall,  which,  for  the  same 
reason,  was  unable  to  be  ti’aced  for  any  distance.  Then,  amid  a per- 
fect labyrinth  of  remains  of  smaller  circular  buildings,  stands  a high 
wall  of  circular  shape,  from  thirty  to  thii’ty-five  feet  high,  forming  a 
complete  enclosure  of  an  area  eighty  yards  in  diameter.  This  wall  is 
ten  feet  thick  at  the  base,  and  tapers  to  about  seven  feet  at  the  tojj,  is 
built  of  small  granite  blocks  about  twice  the  size  of  an  ordinary  brick, 
beautifully  hewn  and  dressed,  laid  in  perfectly  even  courses,  and  is 
put  together  without  the  use  of  any  mortar  or  cement  whatever.  This 
enclosure  is  entered  by  a mere  gap  in  the  wall,  but  which  at  one  time 
was  a well-built  entrance,  as  it  is  clearly  shown  by  the  rounded-off 
courses. 

An  Ancient  Tower. 

Inside  the  building  itself,  and  close  to  the  entrance  and  outer  wall, 
stands  a cone-shaped  tower  thirty-five  feet  high  and  eighteen  feet  in 
diameter  at  the  base,  built  of  the  same  granite  blocks,  and  consisting  of 
solid  masonry.  On  the  Southeast  front  of  the  wall,  and  twenty  feet 
from  its  base,  runs  a double  zigzag  scroll,  one  third  of  the  distance 
around,  composed  of  the  same  sized  granite  blocks  placed  in  diagonal 
positions.  On  the  “ kopie  ” and  hillside  itself  there  are  numerous  traces 
of  remains  of  a similar  character,  circular  buildings  wedged  in  among 
boulders  of  rocks,  walled  terraces,  at  least  nine  in  number,  and  built 
on  the  very  summit  is  an  enormous  mass  of  granite  blocks,  to  be  used, 
apparently,  as  a foi’t,  and  which,  owing  to  the  complete  absence  of  any 
disintegrating  forces  in  this  climate,  is  in  almost  a perfect  state  of 
preservation. 

The  tendency  to  construct  circular  buildings  would  seem  to  indi- 
cate an  absence  of  intercourse  with  the  ancient  Egyptians,  whose 
architecture  was  of  an  entirely  different  nature,  cement  being  used 
between  the  courses,  and  the  houses  being  built  square.  Trees,  centu- 
ries old,  have  grown  in  such  profusion  as  to  seriously  impede  system- 
atic investigation  of  the  inscription  with  a view  to  determining  the 
race  to  which  the  inhabitants  of  the  city  belonged.  One  thing  is 
certain,  that  a large  and  semi-civilized  population  must  once  have 
dwelled  in  these  lands,  and  under  conditions  which  make  slave-labor 


438 


LETTER  NO.  19. 


procurable  to'  an  unlimited  extent.  The  Natives  are  densely  igno- 
rant, and  hold  no  traditions  as  to  the  origin  or  purpose  of  these 
strange  ruins ; but  there  is  a tradition  among  the  Portuguese  which 
represents  the  ruins  to  have  been  the  capital  city  of  the  land  ruled  by 
the  Queen  of  Sheba,  and  their  ancient  records  are  said  to  make  fre- 
quent mention  of  a people  living  in  that  part  of  Southeast  Africa, 
and  established  there  long  before  their  own  arrival,  and  whom  they 
represent  as  working  for  gold  in  the  far  interior.  But  whatever  the 
origin  of  the  ruins,  the  bax’e  possibility  that  the  conical  tower  may 
prove  to  be  the  tumulus  of  the  Queen  whom  King  Solomon  honored, 
is  enough  to  fire  the  imagination  of  all  the  antiquaries  of  the  earth. 

Were  they  Indians  f 

The  Hindoo  who  conquered  Java  could  readily  have  ascended  the 
Zambezi ; so  might  the  Malays  who  conquered  Madagascar,  and  who 
remain  to  this  day  among  the  boldest  and  most  adventurous  of  all 
maritime  peoples.  So  might,  and  much  more  probably,  the  Arabs, 
who  founded  the  Sabean  Kingdom,  who  would  naturally  be  drawn, 
as  their  descendents  still  are,  by  an  irresistible  attraction  to  the  great 
and  immensely  wealthy  continent  just  opposite  their  doors.  And  so, 
above  all,  might  the  Phoenicians.  It  is  known  that  the  agents  of 
King  Solomon  belonged  to  that  race,  and  the  gold  and  ivoiy  which 
they  brought  to  Jerusalem  must  have  come  from  one  of  two  places — 
Africa  or  India.  We  know,  too,  that  they  were  experienced  metal- 
lurgists, that  they  hunted  the  World  for  profitable  mines.  Then,  in 
opposition  to  this  theory,  it  would  not  hav^e  been  likely  that  any 
foreign  nation  erecting  these  structures  would  have  changed  in  every 
detail  its  traditional  mode  of  architecture.  There  are  no  Phoenician, 
Carthageniau,  Roman,  or  Moorish  ruins  of  buildings  in  which  the 
use  of  mortar  is  absent,  nor  is  there  any  similarity  in  the  general 
form  of  the  houses  and  walls  of  Zinbabye  with  that  of  any  of  the 
ancient  ruins  elsewhere  on  the  Continent  of  Africa.  Besides,  the 
Egyptians  never  were  known  to  use  granite  blocks  entirely  of  small 
size,  their  walls  being  built  of  huge  blocks. 

Then,  whose  were  the  hands  that  raised  these  stony  piles  ? What 
vanished  race,  and  for  what  forgotten  purpose,  built  these  crumbling 
towers?  Such  massive  edifices  assuredly  betoken  the  existence  at  one 
time  of  a civilized  people  in  the  interior  of  Africa.  The  Negroes, 
from  whom  descended  the  savage  tribes  that  inhabit  Mashonaland 


"SOLOiMON’S  MINES.’ 


439 


to-day,  could  not  have  been  the  people.  That  their  day  was  long 
ago,  is  proved  by  the  state  of  the  ruins,  into  which  big  trees  have 
burrowed  and  forced  their  way. 

The  Queen  of  Sheba. 

The  historian  Josephus  in  his  work  says  that  the  Queen  who  was 
attracted  to  Jerusalem  by  the  magnificence  of  King  Solomon’s  Court 
was  a Queen  of  Ethiopia,  named  Nicaule  or  Nicauls.  This  statement 
is  strengthened  by  an  Ethiopian  legend,  which  says  that  a Queen  of 
that  Country  named  Mokeda  went  to  Jerusalem,  where  she  became  a 
worshipper  of  the  true  God,  and  that  King  Solomon  was  the  father 
of  her  son,  named  Memlek,  whose  surname  was  Ebn-Hakim,  which 
signifies  “ Son  of  the  Wise.”  Later  on,  history  tells  us,  the  Queen 
entered  Jerusalem,  followed  by  a gorgeous  suite  of  retainers  and  of 
camels  loaded  with  perfumes,  nuggets  of  gold  and  precious  stones  and 
rich  ivory.  Now  Africa  produced  all  these  treasures  in  great  pro- 
fusion, and  when,  after  King  Solomon  departed  from  the  religious 
ways  of  his  forefathers  and  followed  the  worship  of  idols,  he  became 
so  reduced  in  circumstances  by  his  reckless  extravagance  that  he  had 
to  borrow  money,  it  was  from  Africa  that  his  revenues  came.  Driven 
to  desperation,  the  Jewish  King  had  recourse  to  the  means  which  is 
taken  by  sovereigns  at  the  present  time  to  raise  money — he  borrowed 
and  failed  to  pay  his  creditors.  The  mines  operated  by  the  people  of 
the  Queen  of  Sheba  were  taxed  to  their  utmost  to  supply  her  lover- 
King  with  money,  and  she  corresponded  with  him  through  the  means 
of  a bird  named  “ Hudhud,”  who  carried  their  messages.  The  scien- 
tific name  of  this  bird  has  never  been  known,  but  it  might  have  been 
a carrier-pidgeon,  or  perhaps  numbers  of  these  birds  were  kept  for 
that  purpose,  but  the  legend  distinctly  states  that  only  one  bird  was 
used.” 


“The  Gold  Fields  of  South  Africa. 

The  Wonderful  Ruins. 

The  best  account  of  the  gold  fields  of  South  Africa,  and  the  climate 
and  soil  of  the  Matabele  and  Mashona  Lauds,  in  which  those  gold 
fields  lie,  was  given  to  the  Royal  Geographical  Society  at  its  meeting 
at  Burlington  House,  London,  on  November  25,  by  Mr.  E.  A.  Maund, 


440 


LETTER  NO.  19. 


whose  thorough  acquaintance  with  that  Country  enables  him  to  speak 
with  authority.  These  lands  are  now  being  explored  by  the  British 
South  Africa  Company,  which  already  has  Stations  in  the  new  crown 
colony  of  Bechuanaland,  and  is  pushing  its  exploring  parties  to  the 
highlands  of  Matabeleland  and  Mashonaland  with  the’ full  authority 
of  Lobengula,  the  ruling  African  King.  This  territory,  as  described 
by  Mr.  Maund,  lies  practically  “between  the  parallels  of  16  degrees 
and  22  degrees  South  Latitude,  and  the  meridian  of  27  degrees  to  23 
degrees  East  Longitude,  and  is  certainly  the  most  promising  Country 
for  colonization  in  South  Africa.  Compared  with  the  Country  South 
of  it,  Matabeleland  is  like  Caanan  after  the  wilderness.  It  is  gen- 
erally healthy,  and  very  rich  in  minerals — gold,  copper,  and  iron 
having  been  extensively  worked  by  the  ancients  with  their  rude 
appliances.  Its  numerous  rivers  are  either  running  or  have  plenty 
of  water  in  them.  The  soil  is  rich,  and  admirably  adapted  for  corn  ; 
cattle  thrive,  and  there  is  an  abundance  of  grass  and  wood.  AVhite 
children  can  be  reared  in  the  Country,  which  is  a sine  qua  non  if  it  is 
to  be  successfully  colonized  by  white  men,  and,  above  all,  it  is  sparsely 
populated.”  The  government  is  an  unmitigated  desj^otism.  It  con- 
tains a native  population  of  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  thousand, 
and  has  a fighting  sti’ength  of  from  fourteen  to  fifteen  thousand.  The 
King,  whom  Mr.  Maund  visited,  confided  to  him  his  fears  of  the 
Portuguese  and  Boers,  but  doubting  the  power  of  England  after  the 
defeat  of  the  British  troops  at  Majuba  Hill,  “proposed  to  send  two 
of  his  head  men  to  see  whether  the  white  Queen  still  lived.  These 
envoys,  he  said,  would  be  ‘ his  eyes,  ears,  and  mouth.’” 

Mr.  Maund  accepted  the  mission,  and  next  day  started  down 
Country.  The  envoys  were  two  naked  old  colored  men,  and  were 
gradually  dressed  on  the  road.  Soon  after  landing  the  party  were 
invited  to  Windsor,  and  they  saw  the  white  Queen,  who  thoroughly 
won  their  hearts  by  her  gracious  reception.  They  returned,  and  Mr. 
Maund  had  no  hesitation  in  saying  that  the  recent  peaceable  occupa- 
tion of  Mashonaland  by  the  party  of  pioneers  was  the  direct  outcome 
of  the  clever  way  in  which  these  two  old  men  told  their  tale,  and  the 
King  disseminated  it  among  his  people. 

After  their  return,  Mr.  Maund  remained  seven  months  in  the 
Country,  making  many  excursions  through  it.  The  King  has 
allowed  a part  of  it  to  be  opened  for  colonization.  “ The  Country 
about  to  be  opened  up  for  colonization  is  an  extensive  plateau  on  the 


THE  GOLD  FIELDS  OF  SOUTH  AFRICA. 


441 


watei'-parting  between  the  Zambesi  and  the  Crocodile  Rivers.  There 
are  no  great  mountain  peaks.  To  the  East  the  slope  of  the  land  is 
abrupt  and  the  Country  broken,  while  to  the  Northwest  it  falls  in 
gentle  undulations.  The  plateau  is  furrowed  by  many  considerable 
Rivers  and  their  numerous  tributaries.  The  climate  in  these  high- 
lands, which  varied  from  3,000  feet  to  5,000  feet  above  the  Sea  level, 
is  far  more  healthy  than  the  now  w-ell-colonized  Seaboard  of  South 
Africa.  The  seasons  are  well  marked,  and  the  rainfall  is  good.  For 
eight  months,  from  April  to  November,  the  air  is  particularly  dry 
and  salubrious,  and  compared  well  with  the  Congo  Free  State.  The 
months  of  September  and  October,  before  the  rains,  are  the  hottest 
in  the  year.  All  vegetation  appeared  dried  up,  and  the  grass  lands 
are  burned  olf  by  the  Natives.”  With  ordinary  care,  these  highlands 
are  particularly  healthy.  Some  Englishmen,  traders  and  missionaries, 
have  lived  up  there  for  twenty-five  years,  and  raised  large  families. 

The  soil  all  along  the  rich  Valleys  is  very  fertile,  and  large  crops 
of  Indian  corn,  and  Kafir  corn,  pumpkins,  sweet  potatoes,  tobacco, 
and  even  potatoes  and  tomatoes,  are  grown  by  the  Natives.  Grass, 
corn,  rice,  tobacco,  and,  with  irrigation,  all  kinds  of  English  vege- 
tables and  fruits  flourish  there.  “ It  was  to  the  mineral  riches,  how- 
ever,” said  Mr.  Maund,  “ that  they  must  look  for  the  quick  develop- 
ment of  the  Country.  The  gold  in  Mashonaland  would,  he  believed, 
create  a rush  only  to  be  paralleled  in  the  development  of  California 
and  the  Western  States  of  America.  During  the  seven  months  he 
remained  with  the  King,  after  the  return  of  his  Induuas,  he  mapped 
and,  as  far  as  possible,  prospected  the  immediate  neighborhood  of  his 
chief  Kraals.  In  some  of  the  numerous  reefs  they  found  free  gold, 
and  old  workings  were  visible.  There  was,  too,  in  this  district  a 
banket  formation  similar  to  that  in  the  Transvaal,  while  North  of 
the  Ramaquoban  River  the  charter  prospectors  found  a body  of  reef, 
running  as  much  as  two  ounces  to  the  ton.  It  was  not  in  that  dis- 
trict, however,  that  the  Company  had  begun  work ; it  wns  the  Mazoe 
and  Hanyani  fields  that  w^ere  being  carefully  explored  by  a w'ell- 
organized  pioneering  expedition.  Those  Northern  gold  fields  had 
been  talked  about  for  twenty  years.”  It  is  the  latter  fields  the  South 
Africa  Company  are  now  exploring.  Twelve  miles  East  of  one  of 
their  Stations  in  the  Mountains  are  the  grand  ruins  of  the  ancient 
capital  Zinbabye.  The  many  and  vast  remains  of  ancient  buildings 
all  point,  from  their  propinquity  to  old  workings,  to  an  extensive 


442 


LETTER  NO.  19. 


gold  industry- carried  on  by  crude  means.  These  gold  fields  will  soon 
be  provided  with  modern  appliances,  and  there  is  an  ample  supply  to 
be  had  of  native  labor.  The  difficulty  up  to  the  present  time  has 
been  the  cost  of  transportation.  Between  the  new  South  Africa 
Colony  and  the  Cape  is  eighteen  hundred  miles ; but  this  is  to  be 
overcome  by  tapping  the  Colony  from  the  East  Coast.  Pongwe  Bay 
is  scarcely  more  than  two  hundred  and  fifty  miles  from  the  Mines, 
ninety  miles  of  which  can  be  done  by  water.  The  remainder  of  the 
distance  it  is  proposed  to  connect  by  railway. 

With  regard  to  the  extensive  ruins,  not  only  at  Zinbabye,  but  all 
over  the  Country,  the  mystery  surrounding  their  origin  is  now  soon 
to  be  cleared  up  by  competent  Archaeologists,  who  are  going  out  to 
investigate  them.  “ There  can  be  little  doubt,”  Mi\  Maund  says, 
“ that  they  were  built  for  the  smelting,  and  possibly  the  protection 
and  storage,  of  gold  and  other  metals.”  He  puts  aside  all  the  stories 
current  of  their  being  the  Mines  of  King  Solomon,  and  Zinbabye  the 
residence  of  the  Queen  of  Sheba,  and  that  they  were  worked  by  the 
old  Portuguese,  the  Moors,  or  the  Persians,  and  leans  to  the  belief 
that  the  buildings  were  of  Phoenician  origin,  and  date  back  to  pre- 
historic times.” 


“The  Gold  Fields  of  Mashonaland. 

At  length  we  get  a lucid  idea  of  the  resources  of  South  Africa,  and 
of  Mashoualand  in  particular,  its  climate,  its  wonderfully  fertile  soil, 
its  gold  fields,  and  the  remarkable  ruins  of  Zinbabye,  once  a great 
city,  supposed  to  have  been  built  before  the  dawn  of  history  by  the 
Phoenicians.  Mr,  de  Waal,  a native  of  the  Cape  Colony,  for  the  last 
nine  years  a member  of  the  Cape  Parliament,  and  at  one  time  Mayor 
of  Cape  Town,  has  recently  returned  from  a grand  tour  of  Mashona- 
land  with  Mr.  Cecil  Rhodes,  the  Prime  Minister  of  the  Cape  Colony, 
and,  being  in  England,  has  given  the  Review  of  Revmvs  the  result  of 
his  observations  and  of  his  long  experience  of  a Country  in  which  he 
and  his  Dutch  ancestors  have  lived  for  three  hundred  years.  The 
voyage  was  made  by  Sea  from  Cape  Town  to  the  River  Puugwe  on 
the  Indian  Ocean,  and  thence  up  the  River  and  by  land  transpor- 
tation to  Massikesse,  the  limit  of  the  South  African  possessions  of 
Portugal.  Through  all  this  low  Country  the  heat  and  the  ravages 
of  the  Tetse  Fly  make  travel  painful  and  dangerous;  but  the  Mozam- 


THE  GOLD  FIELDS  OF  MASHON ALAND. 


443 


bique  Company  is  building  a Railroad  from  the  head  of  navigation 
on  the  Pungwe  to  Massikesse,  where  the  uplands  of  the  British  pos- 
sessions begin  and  over  which  the  trade  of  Mashonaland  will  ulti- 
mately be  carried  to  the  Sea.  A small  Map  given  in  the  Review 
shows  the  system  of  roads  that  have  been  constructed  over  the  ridges 
of  the  Watershed  traversing  Mashonaland,  and  the  series  of  Forts 
which  have  been  constructed  to  defend  the  workers  in  the  different 
gold  fields  that  have  been  discovered,  against  the  incursions  of  the 
blacks  in  the  adjacent  territory  of  Matabeleland.  Of  these  gold  fields 
six  ai’e  laid  down  on  the  Map,  and  each  Fort  is  garrisoned  by  a small 
company  of  white  men  and  armed  with  Gatling  guns.  The  total 
number  of  white  men  in  Mashonaland  does  not  at  present  exceed 
1,200,  but  colonists  are  slowly  coming  in  from  the  Transvaal  and 
taking  up  lauds  under  the  rules  laid  down  by  the  Company.  All 
the  uplands  are  healthy  and  well  watered. 

“You  ask  me,”  said  Mr.  de  Waal,  “what  I think  of  Mashona- 
land. I will  tell  you,  not  in  my  own  words,  but  in  those  of  one  who 
has  been  hunting  in  the  Country  for  the  last  twenty  years : ‘ Mashona- 
land is  the  finest  Country  God  ever  made.’  He  spoke  as  a hunter ; I 
speak  as  a farmer.  It  is  a land  which,  to  any  one  who  knows  any- 
thing about  the  veldt,  is  the  richest  in  South  Africa — a Country 
abounding  in  all  natural  wealth,  fertile,  sparsely  populated,  but  full 
of  everything  which  is  necessary  for  a great  colony.  As  for  the  gold, 
that  is  a matter  upon  which  I am  not  an  expert ; but,  although  not 
a miner  or  prospector  or  speculator  myself,  I can  give  you  the  evi- 
dence of  the  best  authorities  upon  the  subject.  I have  visited  the 
leading  reefs,  and  talked  with  the  men  who  are  working  them.  I 
have  brought  back  samples  of  the  quartz,  which  I have  had  submitted 
to  an  analyst  in  Cape  Town,  and  I can  give  you  here  the  exact  figures 
as  to  the  results  which  the  various  reefs  yield,  and  you  will  see  from 
these  figures  that  in  gold  the  Country  is  as  good  as  it  is  for  grazing 
and  farming.” 

Thus  far  all  the  work  has  been  preparatory — the  building  of  forts, 
the  prospecting  for  new  gold-bearing  reefs,  and  the  making  of  roads. 
Very  little  gold  has  been  mined.  Most  of  the  reefs  having  been 
simply  opened  to  test  the  quartz  and  subject  it  to  analysis.  The 
working  of  the  reefs  on  a large  scale  is  dependent  on  the  inflow  of 
colonists,  as  soon  as  the  Countiy  is  opened  to  receive  them.  “In  the 
course  of  our  journey,  after  leaving  the  Pungwe,”  says  Mr.  de  Waal, 


444 


LETTER  NO.  19. 


“ we  passed  through  forty  miles  of  open  Country,  which  I can  best 
describe  by  saying  that  it  was  simply  one  huge  zoological  garden. 
Never  before  have  I seen  such  abundance  of  wild  animals.  They 
have  been  left  all  these  ages  undisturbed  by  man,  and  the  result  is 
that  for  the  sportsman  no  such  region  exists  in  the  World.  Great 
herds  of  Buffaloes  can  be  seen  within  gunshot  of  the  road.  You  fire 
at  a great  Buffalo  bull,  and  the  moment  the  report  of  your  rifle  is 
heard,  you  see  you  are  in  the  midst  of  animals  of  all  kinds.  Wild 
Pigs  jump  up  to  tlie  right,  to  the  left  herds  of  Koodoos  rush  away 
into  the  more  distant  glades,  and  the  whole  forest  seems  suddenly 
instinct  with  life.  You  go  a little  farther  and  you  come  upon  fresh 
spoors  of  herds  of  Elephants ; then  you  come  upon  Giraffes  and  herds 
of  Quaggas  and  Antelopes,  and  every  description  of  animal  which 
abounds  in  South  Africa.  It  is,  as  I said,  one  great  zoological  gar- 
den for  the  whole  of  the  forty  miles.” 

As  to  the  Country  itself,  after  reaching  the  summit  of  the  Water- 
shed, Mr.  de  Waal  could  find  no  other  comparison  than  with  the 
Garden  of  Eden.  For  a distance  of  a hirudred  and  seventy-four 
miles  it  reminded  him  of  Italy  between  Rome  and  Naples,  with  hill 
and  dale  and  woody  knolls,  and  of  wonderful  natural  fertility.  At 
Fort  Victoria  they  left  the  newly-constructed  highway  to  visit  the 
ruins  of  Zinbabye,  and  as  Mr.  de  Waal’s  account  of  it  is  the  clearest 
of  any  we  have  seen,  we  give  it  entire.  He  says  : 

“ There  is  no  doubt  of  Zinbabye  being  one  of  the  most  woirderful 
relics  of  antiquity  in  the  whole  World.  It  is  a great  empty  city,  built 
round  a rock  or  citadel  in  the  centi’e  of  the  ruins,  like  the  rock  of 
Edinburgh  Castle  and  the  Acropolis  at  Athens.  The  circuit  of  the 
city  I did  not  lueasure,  but  I should  say  that  it  must  have  been  five 
miles  round.  It  is  wonderful,  and  as  I remarked  to  Mr.  Rhodes,  if 
the  Chartered  Company  will  but  keep  it  as  it  is,  it  will  be  as  good  as 
a gold  mine  to  them.  Mr.  Bent  seemed  to  me  to  have  been  rather 
too  busy  in  his  excavations  here  and  there  for  utensils  and  of  relics 
of  the  city  builders.  It  is  difficult  to  say  how  thickly  they  packed 
the  people  in  Zinbabye  in  the  days  when  it  was  a great  city,  full  of 
life  and  trade,  but  thei’e  must  have  been  a population  of  fifty  thousand 
or  possibly  one  hundi’ed  thousand  gathered  together  round  the  rock 
citadel.  We  walked  up  and  down  the  desolated  streets,  and  mar- 
velled that  a race  so  civilized,  so  wealthy,  and  so  powerful  should 
have  so  utterly  passed  away  without  even  leaving  a memory  of  the 


THE  LAND  OF  OPHIB. 


445 


inhabitants  to  whom  it  belonged.  Its  central  point,  both  in  interest 
and  situation,  was  the  Temple  of  the  great  Phallus,  which,  in  the 
opinion  of  many  experts,  identifies  these  forgotten  city  builders  with 
the  Phoenicians.  It  is  a building  as  large  as  the  Coliseum  at  Rome, 
although  not  so  high.  The  walls  are  from  nine  to  twelve  feet  in 
thickness,  and  all  the  interior  is  in  perfect  preservation,  with  the 
chambers  leading  to  the  houses  of  the  priests  and  the  altar  of  the 
great  Phallic  emblem,  upon  the  top  of  which  we  all  could  have 
encamped.  These  people,  whoever  they  wei’e,  were  gold  smelters, 
and  you  can  still  trace  the  remains  of  the  furnaces  in  which  they 
smelted  the  gold.  It  is  a unique  spectacle,  a whole  city  remaining 
through  the  ages  tenautless  and  so  entirely  forgotten  that  even  a tra- 
dition of  its  existence  has  not  been  left.” 


“Is  IT  THE  Land  op  Ophir? 

Something  more  about  the  Mysterious  Ruins  of  Mashonaland. 

What  a strangely  potent  magic  there  is  to  the  children  of  a modern 
civilization  in  all  that  concerns  those  more  ancient  ones  which  have 
had  their  day  and  ceased  to  be  ages  before  our  own  was  heard  of ! As 
a vein  of  romance  it  is  inexhaustible.  In  “ Salammbo,”  in  “The  Last 
Days  of  Pompeii,”  in  Mr.  Rider  Haggard’s  subterranean  creations, 
it  is  the  same  old  spell  which  arrests  the  fancy.  Relics  of  the  power 
and  pride  of  immemorial  peoples,  whom  the  earth  knows  no  more, 
have  an  equal  charm  for  the  antiquarian  and  the  man  in  the  street. 
To  this,  we  suspect,  almost  equally  with  more  substantial  attractions, 
is  due  the  general  interest  in  the  work  of  the  British  South  Africa 
Company.  Mashonaland  is  a vast  and  rich  possession ; the  Mata- 
beles  ai’e  a fierce  and  interesting  race  of  savages,  and  the  name  of  gold 
is  now,  as  ever,  a talisman  to  conjure  with. 

But  what  an  added  lustre  the  expedition  gains  when  the  scene  of 
its  labors  is  identified  with  the  Land  of  Ophir  and  the  object  of  its 
search  with  the  real  King  Solomon’s  Mines ! And  whether  that 
particular  identification  of  the  I’emains  which  strew  this  barbarous 
Country  be  well  founded  or  not,  there  the  remains  are — ancient, 
massive,  mysterious — contrasting  in  startling  fashion  with  the  primi- 
tive barbarians  who  dwell  about  them  and  with  the  jungly  wildness 


446 


LETTER  NO.  19. 


of  surrounding  nature.  Each  stone  in  them  is,  as  it  were,  a mute 
challenge,  a petrified  inquiry;  and  the  curiosity  aroused  in  1871  by 
the  descriptions  of  the  German  traveller  Mauch,  whom  the  learned 
World  half  suspected  of  romancing,  will  receive  a keen  stimulus  from 
the  accounts  in  which  the  pioneers  of  the  Chartered  Company  now 
confirm  and  amplify  his  observations. 

Can  we  ever  read  the  riddle  of  these  stony  sphinxes  of  Mashona- 
land,  of  which  the  public  can  now,  for  the  first  time,  fonn  a clear 
idea?  So  far  the  only  clew  we  have  is  that  of  which  our  special 
correspondent  lately  wrote  as  follows  : 

“Who  were  they,  these  soldier- workmen  of  a vanished  civilization, 
and  at  whose  bidding  did  they  force  their  way  into  this  barbarous 
place  to  dig  for  gold?  * * * The  Country  is  dotted  with  strange 
broken  relics  of  their  work.  The  furnaces  which  they  built  to  smelt 
the  ore,  the  strong  round  keeps  which  they  raised  against  the  alarms 
of  some  besetting  foe,  the  great  stones  in  which  they  scored  in  unde- 
cipherable characters  the  record  of  their  labors,  perhaps  the  clew  to 
their  prize — these  things  remain,  and  move  the  awe  of  the  Matabele 
and  his  Mashona  vassal.  * * * ‘ And  they  came  to  Ophir  and  fetched 
from  thence  gold,  four  hundred  and  twenty  talents,  and  brought  it  to 
King  Solomon.’  ‘ Now  the  weight  of  gold  that  came  to  King  Solo- 
mon in  one  }'ear  was  six  hundred  three-score  and  six  talents  of  gold.’ 

“ The  mysterious  folk  who  have  imprinted  on  Mashonaland  the 
traces  of  an  ancient  quest  for  gold  were  none  other,  so  the  learned 
nave  conjectured,  than  those  quick,  adventurous  Phoenicians  who,  in 
the  days  when  the  Red  Sea  was  the  Mediterranean  of  ancient  com- 
merce and  the  Mediterranean  its  Atlantic,  brought  ‘ gold  of  Ophir, 
fine  gold,’  and  ‘great  plenty  of  almug  trees  and  precious  stones  ’ to  the 
Oriental  Monarch,  whose  magnificence  is  still  a proverb  upon  modern 
lips.  To-day,  then,  the  Englishman  is  in  the  land  of  Ophir  * * * 
opening  afresh  the  treasure-house  of  antiquity,  equipped  with  resources 
of  which  the  deft  Phoenician  never  dreamed. 

“ It  may  be  that  he  will  come  upon  such  relics  among  the  aban- 
doned workings  as  will  throw  a new  light  upon  the  story  of  his 
predecessors  and  rewrite  a page  of  the  World’s  history.  It  may  be 
even  that  he  will  stumble  into  chambers  of  subterranean  wealth  such 
as  Mr.  Haggard  has  imagined,  secured  with  labyrinths  like  those  of 
the  Pyramids,  with  sliding  stones  and  all  the  appropriate  witchcraft 
of  an  age  when  human  life  and  human  labor  were  of  no  account.  At 


KIMBERLEY  TO  CAFE  TOWN. 


447 


least,  before  many  years  are  out,  we  may  expect  to  see  the  image  of 
Queen  Victoria  stamped  on  the  gold  with  which  King  Solomon  over- 
laid his  ivory  throne  and  wreathed  the  cedar  pillars  of  his  temple.” 
Pall-Mall  Gazdte.'\ 

On  Train  from  Kimberley  to  Cape  Town, 

AND  AT  Cape  Tom^n,  International  Hotel, 

Tuesday  and  Wednesday,  July  1 and  2,  1890. 

It  rained  heavily  last  night.  When  I heard  it,  I feared  we  would 
be  incommoded  in  getting  off  in  the  morning.  We  had  not  ordered 
a Carriage  for  ourselves,  only  a conveyance  for  our  luggage,  intend- 
ing to  walk.  But  Kimberley  after  a rain  is  something  frightful  to 
contemplate.  Having  few,  if  any,  sidewalks,  the  red  mud,  of  which 
I have  spoken,  becomes  tenacious  as  putty,  and  walking  in  it  a per- 
formance serious  to  undertake.  Starting  before  daylight,  I feai’ed  no 
servants  would  be  on  hand,  and  our  coming  away  be  seriously  incom- 
moded. 

But  things  turn  out,  some  how,  with  me  prosperously  on  travel. 
The  Manager  had  thought  of  the  matter  for  us,  and  when  the  hour 
of  departure  came,  we  had  a cup  of  Coffee  ready  and  twm  Carriages, 
one  for  ourselves  and  one  for  our  baggage,  and  we  were  transported 
comfortably  to  the  Station  in  full  time.  Here,  the  Station  Master, 
to  whom  we  had  spoken,  had  a whole  compartment  prepared  for  us, 
which  we  occupied  by  ourselves  during  the  entire  journey  to  Cape 
Town. 

We  left  at  six  o’clock,  and  moved  all  day  Tuesday  and  Tuesday 
night,  reaching  here  on  Wednesday  at  one  o’clock  p.  m.,  a distance 
of  six  hundred  and  forty -seven  miles.  The  Hoad,  like  all  the  Roads 
in  South  Africa,  and  the  Car  and  Compartment,  were  similar  alto- 
gether to  those  we  used  from  Port  Elizabeth  to  Kimberley — no  bed- 
clothes being  furnished — making  our  bed  upon  the  benches,  and 
covering  with  our  coats  and  shawls  and  rugs.  But  my  talent  for 
sleep  served  me  well,  and  stayed  with  me  faithfully  during  the  part 
of  the  night  I devoted  to  it,  and  in  the  Morning  I had  missed  no  rest. 
We  had  our  Breakfast  and  Dinner  served  in  our  Compartment,  and 
this  Morning  our  Breakfast,  from  a Kitchen  Car  attached,  and  both 
abundant  and  well  prepared.  This  seems  luxurious  for  South  Africa, 
lately  the  home  of  the  savage  and  wild  beast;  but  the  same  powers 


448 


LETTER  NO.  19. 


which  make  -our  Civilization  can  transfer  it  with  magic  speed  to  the 
uttermost  parts  of  the  Earth. 

The  rain  ceased  after  a while,  and  the  Sky  cleared,  and  good 
weather  prevailed,  both  day  and  night : that  and  our  comfortable 
Compartment  made  the  whole  time  enjoyable.  Mr.  Stephens  and  his 
company  were  along  in  another  Car,  and  they  came  in  to  see  us,  he 
frequently,  to  call  our  attention  to  objects  of  interest  upon  the  way. 
The  Country  during  the  whole  of  Tuesday  was  the  same  as  that  of 
which  I have  written — for  we  came  Southward,  your  Map  will  show 
you,  on  the  same  Line  to  the  Junction  at  De  Aar,  which  carried  us 
to  Kimberley,  and  tlience  on  hitherward,  till  nightfall ; a little  after 
which  we  came  to  Beaufort  West.  Shortly  before  this  we  crossed  the 
Winter  Bergen  Range  of  Mountains,  which  bounds  Southward  the 
great  Plateau  on  which  Kimberley  is  seated  and  over  whicli  we  rolled 
all  day,  more  than  four  thousand  feet  above  the  Sea  and  about  three 
hundred  miles  in  width. 

Crossing  this  Range  we  descend  into  the  Desert  of  Karroo,  cutting 
it  diagonally.  Southwest,  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  or  thereabouts. 
Beaufort  West  stands  on  the  Northern  2^art  of  this,  embowered  in 
vegetation,  induced  by  culture  and  irrigation,  and  called  the  Gem  of 
the  Karroo.  Though  night  had  come,  darkness  did  not ; the  Moon 
was  far  advanced  and  exceeding  bright,  showing  us  much  that,  with- 
out her,  would  have  been  lost.  The  Great  Karroo  is  not  absolutely 
a Desert.  It  cannot  be  cultivated  with  ju’ofit — the  stones,  and  scarcity 
of  rain  and  water,  and  jjoverty  of  soil  forbid  it ; but,  I am  informed, 
when  Spring  comes  with  showers,  the  liarsh  scrub  and  hardened  earth 
are  softened,  and  bloom  with  rich  and  lovely  flowers;  then,  too,  some 
grass  comes,  and  it  is  a Range  for  Sheep  and  Goats  and  Cattle.  Nor 
is  it  a level  Plain  ; but  varies  much  in  elevation.  It  sinks  from  the 
Mountain  Range,  at  forty-five  hundred  and  fifty  feet,  to  twenty-seven 
hundred  and  fifty  at  Beaufort  West,  and  then,  half  way  across,  to 
eighteen  hundi’ed  and  thirty  at  Prince  Albert  Road,  and  to  thirteen 
hundred  and  fifty  still  further  South — rising  again  at  Touro’s  River 
to  thirty-five  hundred  and  eighty-seven,  and  fifteen  miles  further, 
at  Triangle,  to  thirty-two  hundred — both  belonging  to  the  Zwartz 
Mountains,  which  bound  the  Great  Karroo  upon  the  South.  The 
general  contour  of  the  Desert,  too,  is  not  a level  Plain,  but  undulating, 
with  savage  rocks  forbidding  cultivation.  The  foregoing  figures  of 
elevation  were  dictated  to  me  by  Mr.  Stephens  and  noted  at  the  time. 


KIMBERLEY  TO  CAPE  TOWN. 


449 


We  reached  Triangle  after  daylight,  and  thence  on  had  a clear 
Sky  in  our  descent  at  Hex  River — sixteen  miles — the  finest  scenic 
point  along  the  entire  Line  and  well  worth  seeing — the  track  round- 
ing the  rugged  Mountains,  now  sprinkled  with  snow,  and  beautiful- 
looking up  and  down  as  we  proceeded  upon  the  graceful  spiral.  The 
Valley  of  the  Hex  River,  spotted  with  white  men’s  homes,  presents 
a pretty  sight,  heightened  this  morning  by  the  mists  which  rose  and 
swept  over  the  scene  and  along  the  bases  or  athwart  the  Mountain 
tops,  beautified  or  dispersed  by  the  coming  Sun. 

The  Rain  last  night  extended  over  an  area  of  probably  a hundred 
miles  and  enabled  me  to  see  its  effect  upon  the  soil.  It  did  not  render 
it  more  interesting  to  look  at.  No  fresh  verdancy  followed,  as  with 
us,  when  a drought  has  gone,  nor  does  the  ground  absorb  the  water 
and  seem  refreshed ; but  the  same  sad  look  is  deepened  by  the  moisture 
that  ought  to  refresh,  standing  in  pools  and  puddles — a sadness  instead 
of  a joy.  I must  admit,  that  but  a small,  a very  small  part  of  Africa, 
were  I a tiller  of  the  soil,  invites  me  hither. 

At  Worcester,  another  Oasis-like  appearance  presents  itself,  and 
then  more  cultivation,  and  after  a while  numerous  fields  of  Grain, 
chiefly  Wheat  and  Oats,  Mr.  Stephens  tells  me  only  cultivated  once 
in  five  years,  and  then  allowed  to  stand  in  weeds  and  scrub,  and  then, 
without  clover  or  fertilizer,  again  turned  under ; the  soil  is  thin  and 
can  stand  no  more. 

At  Wellington,  about  fifty  miles  out  of  Cape  Town,  I learned 
there  was  a Post  Office  Car  attached  to  the  Train,  like  those  with 
us,  and  not  having  an  oj^portunity  before,  I mailed  to  you  No.  18, 
which  I spoke  of  in  the  first  paragi'aph  of  this  Letter.  A Steamer, 
I was  told,  would  leave  Cape  Town  for  England  in  the  afternoon, 
and  I feared  I would  not  have  time  after  my  arrival  to  mail  it.  I 
wanted  it  to  go  without  delay  ; for  the  Steamer  I shall  take  does 
not  leave  till  the  9th — a week  hence.  This,  unfinished,  I will  carry 
with  me. 

Soon  the  Vineyards,  for  which  Cape  Town  and  its  vicinity  are 
famous,  came  in  sight  extensively,  on  either  side  of  the  Road.  The 
Vines  are  cultivated  like  those  I told  you  of  in  California  on  my 
First  Tour — not  like  those  I told  you  of  in  Switzerland  and  Italy  on 
my  Second.  They  are  trimmed  back  to  stocks  and  grow  in  bunches 
near  the  ground.  Now — the  Winter  time  here — the  leaves  are  gone; 
but  the  naked  Vines  look  healthy  and  well  cultivated.  From  all  I 
29 


450 


LETTER  NO.  19. 


hear,  their  cultivation  is  a success,  and  the  Cape  has  Wines  of  which 
she  is  very  proud. 

Nearing  Cape  Town,  the  scenery  becomes  uncommonly  fine ; the 
Mountains  assume  the  most  picturesque  and  varied  outlines,  set  off 
by  extended  areas  of  cultivation  about  their  base.  But  Table  Moun- 
tain, the  distinguishing  feature  of  the  scenery  about  the  City,  was 
wrapped  in  Clouds — not  simply  resting  on  it,  but  swept  across  it  by 
a Southwest  wind,  forecasting  rain. 

We  were  met  at  the  Station  by  the  Manager,  and  soon,  in  Carriages 
with  our  baggage,  we  were  brought  to  this  Hotel,  and  assigned  to 
Rooms.  It  is  regarded  as  the  best  in  town — but  out  upon  its  sub- 
urbs. A Tram,  however,  comes  to  the  Gateway. 

First  thing  upon  reaching  the  Hotel  was  to  go  at  once  to  the  Bank 
of  Africa  to  get  your  Letters.  It  is  down  in  the  town,  a mile  or 
more ; but  I walked.  I was  told  that  there  were  some  Letters  for 
me,  but  heavy  chai’ges  for  deficient  postage  and  fines.  Some  had  not 
been  taken  from  the  Post  Office.  ' I expressed  my  indignation  that 
the  Bank  should  thus  treat  me ; I held  a Letter  of  Credit  on  Brown, 
Shipley  & Co.,  London,  from  Brown  Brothers  & Co.,  New  York, 
and  the  Bank  of  Africa  was  my  Correspondent  here,  and  I thought 
it  might  have  received  my  mail,  paying  charges,  till  ray  arrival.  I 
had  written  from  Australia,  and  requested  you  to  write  the  same 
from  home.  The  Officers  said  they  had  received  yours  but  not  mine, 
and  could  not  gather  from  that  all  the  circumstances.  I had  never 
before  met  with  such  treatment  in  all  my  travels,  which  had  been 
extensive.  They  were  considerably  flustered,  and  begged  me  to  await 
the  arrival  of  the  Manager,  who  was  temporarily  out.  This,  I agreed 
to  do.  When  he  came,  I expressed  the  same  opinions  to  him,  and  told 
him  my  Letters  were  of  infinite  value  to  me.  He,  also,  was  flustered, 
and  expressed  his  great  regret.  They  sent  to  the  Post  Office,  and 
the  Messenger  returned  with  a number  of  Letters  and  the  amount 
of  deficient  postage  and  fines.  The  whole  sum  was  seventeen  shil- 
lings— four  dollars  and  twenty-five  cents — which  I at  once  discharged 
and  took  the  precious  package.  There  were  only  four  bundles  of 
papers,  all  told.  The  Manager  said  he  would  inquire  at  the  Head 
Letter  Office,  and  let  me  know  the  result  by  one  of  the  Officers  who 
boarded  at  this  Hotel.  He  did  inform  me,  when  he  came  up,  that  I 
had  received  all  which  had  arrived. 


CAPE  TOWN. 


451 


I returned  to  my  Room,  and  spent  the  residue  of  the  Evening  in 
reading  them  ; a good  time  after  my  long  absence  from  you  all. 

I will  speak  of  them  to-mori’ow,  and  let  you  know  their  dates  and 
why  so  many  have  been  lost. 

When  I returned  to  the  Hotel  it  was  raining,  and  continued  all 
the  afternoon  and  into  the  night,  a regular  pour  down. 

It  is  a pleasing  thing  to  you,  beyond  all  doubt,  that  another  long 
link  in  the  Travel  Chain  is  ended. 

Same  City  and  Hotel, 

Thursday,  July  3,  1890. 

The  Rain  has  poured  down  or  drizzled  heavily  all  day,  forbidding 
any  out-door  work.  You  will  recall  what  an  unusual  thing  this  is 
to  me  on  my  travels.  Before  starting  on  my  extensive  Tours,  I make 
myself  acquainted  with  the  climate  and  seasons  of  the  Countries  I 
propose  to  visit,  and,  consequently,  I have  always  travelled  in  the 
Summer  of  the  World.  It  is  true,  that  in  a journey  so  vast  as  this, 
and  indeed  all,  I may  say,  I have  made,  it  would  seem  to  be  some- 
times impossible  to  hit  good  weather  always ; for  whilst  general  or 
terrestrial  laws  prevail,  local  causes  produce  varieties  of  climate  in 
Countries  of  close  proximity.  But  my  good  fortune,  rvhich  has  ever 
been  with  me,  and  for  which  I am  deeply  grateful,  has  not  only 
guarded  me  in  the  midst  of,  and  through  many  dangers,  but  has 
tempered  the  Seasons  everywhere,  and  given  me  favorable,  though, 
often  in  localities,  abnormal  weather.  This  is  the  first  day  of  for- 
bidding I have  experienced  since  I left  home  on  the  first  of  last 
December.  I ought  not  to  be  surprised  to  meet  it  here  and  now ; 
for  this  is  not  only,  in  general,  the  mid-Winter  time  of  the  Cape,  as 
of  all  Regions  South  of  the  Line,  but  for  local  reasons  is  regarded 
the  worst  period  of  the  year.  You  will  recall  how  favorably  Fortune, 
directed  by  a Good  Providence,  has  betided  me  whithersoever  I have 
travelled  over  all  the  World;  but  I can  hardly  expect  the  Laws  of 
Nature  to  be  changed  to  suit  my  little  plans. 

Enough  of  the  weather ; we  will  now  go  ahead. 

It  is  an  ill  wind  that  blows  no  good.  Despite  the  weather  I passed 
a happy  day.  Whilst  things  looked  ugly  without,  in  my  Chamber 
I had  a charming  time,  communing  with  you  all  at  home.  I read 
and  re-read  your  Letters,  and  found  everything  was  well,  at  least  till 


452 


LETTER  NO.  19. 


the  First  of  June,  the  latest  that  communication  could  possibly  have 
reached  me — twenty  days  from  this  to  England,  ten  more  across  the 
Atlantic  and  to  our  homes.  This  gave  me  infinite  comfort  after  the 
long  silence. 

Now,  about  your  Letters.  I will  give  you  the  dates  of  all  that 
have  come  to  hand  ; from  them  you  can  tell  how  many  have  been  lost 
since  you  began  to  write  to  South  Africa.  How  many  were  lost  in 
the  passage  to  New  Zealand  and  Australia,  I cannot  say,  for  none 
have  come  to  me  forwarded  from  those  Countries. 

From  you : March  27,  April  2,  April  14,  April  23,  April  30,  May 
7,  May  15,  May  22; — from  Charles:  March  31,  May  1; — from 
Margaret : March  23,  March  30,  April  5,  April  20,  April  27,  May 
11,  May  21,  May  25; — from  Mary:  April  5,  May  2.  I,  also,  re- 
ceived one  from  Ranny  Harrison,  full  of  kindliness  and  friendship, 
dated  March  31. 

All  of  these  Letters,  including  Charles’  and  Harrison’s,  were 
stamped  with  five  cents,  and,  consequently,  tabooed — except  two 
from  you  and  two  from  Mai-garet,  which  were  stamped  with  fifteen 
cents ; why  they  should  have  passed  them  at  all  or  should  have 
stopped  any,  as  they  did  one  or  more  of  yours  that  were  brought  to 
your  knowledge,  I do  not  know.  I think  it  highly  probable  many 
were  stopped  in  San  Francisco;  maybe  Margaret’s  missing  ones  are 
there.  Write,  when  you  receive  this,  at  once  to  the  Postmaster  in  that 
City,  and  request  him,  if  there  be  any,  to  forward  them  to  you.  There 
are  private  things  in  them — for  they  are  freely  and  confidentially 
written.  Yours  were  returned,  because  I observe  they  have  the  Box 
mark  upon  them  ; Margaret’s  had  nothing  to  indicate  whence  they 
came,  the  P.  O.  Stamp  being  blurred  and  illegible. 

I have  received  only  four  packages  of  Papers  out  of,  I should 
think,  not  less  than  fifteen  or  twenty  that  ought  to  have  come.  They, 
I suppose,  have  been  thrown  away  somewhere.  J regret  this  greatly, 
for  our  Town  and  State  Papers  keep  me  advised  of  what  is  going  on 
within  them  ; now  I am  entirely  ignorant  of  what  has  been  doing 
there  for  five  or  six  months. 

Your  individual  Letters  gave  me  great  comfort,  being  assured  that 
you  are  well,  and  your  troubles  most  favorably  concluded.  I am 
fully  satisfied  that  you  have  done  everything  for  the  best;  for  whilst 
anything  pleases  me  which  gratifies  you,  I am  quite  sure  from  what 
you  tell  me  of  your  work  upon  the  houses,  my  presence  could  not 


CAPE  TOWN. 


453 


have  helped  you  to  do  any  better.  I am  glad,  too,  you  have  rented 
the  Shoe  Factory  Building  to  your  satisfaction.  I agree  with  you. 

Your  views  about  the  projected  Boom  are  right.  I care  nothing 
about  the  change  of  site  of  the  Hotel — save  that  I fear  the  one  selected 
is  too  far  off  to  answer  the  purposes  of  the  town  in  a business  way. 
It  may  answer  the  purpose  of  a Summer  Boarding  House,  but  not, 
I fear,  a Hotel  for  Business  men.  But  I trust  sincerely  we  may  get 
a good  Hotel,  which  I know  our  old  town  sadly  needs. 

I am  glad  things  are  getting  on  at  the  Farm  well.  I note  what 
you  say  of  Jim  whitewashing  there  and  in  town. 

To  Margaret:  Your  Letters  were  so  newsy  and  interesting,  that 
they  whetted  my  appetite  for  more,  and  aggravated  the  sense  of  the 
loss  of  those  which  failed  to  reach  me.  You  observe,  I tell  Taylor 
he  ought  to  write  to  San  Francisco  to  inquire  about  them.  I hope 
he  will  do  this  at  once.  I wish  I bad  time  to  chat  in  these  Letters 
about  the  numerous  items  you  detail ; but  that  must  wait  our  happy 
meeting,  not  far  distant  now.  Give  my  love  and  kisses  to  Mary,  and 
tell  her  her’s  must  thus  await  the  same  kind  of  answer.  Love  to  the 
Doctor  and  Little  Mas;. 

To  Charles:  Glad  you  and  all  in  both  Households  are  well.  Love 
to  both.  Wish  Charley  and  Mary  hajipiness  on  the  advent  of  the 
little  stranger  ; may  he  be  a perennial  joy  and  comfort  to  them  both. 
Right  glad,  too,  am  I,  that  Charley  is  doing  well ; may  his  pros- 
perity continue  and  increase  more  and  more ! Tell  Little  Taylor,  the 
Cup  he  gave  me  is  a great  traveller,  and  has  journeyed  with  me  many 
thousands  of  miles,  and  ever  reminds  me  of  his  kind  thoughtfulness 
in  making  me  a present  of  it. 

We  will  lose  no  more  Letters  now.  I have  no  doubt  they  are 
gathering  in  London,  to  await  my  arrival  there,  and  gladden  my 
voyage  homeward.  I am  thankful  none  of  mine  have  come  to  grief, 
yours  inform  me,  at  least  to  No.  13.  Doubtless,  others  have  come 
in  since,  keeping  you  ever  by  my  side. 

This  Hotel  is  seated  at  the  base  almost  of  Table  Mountain,  the 
conspicuous  object  in  Cape  Town  above  every  other,  its  enormous 
bulk  towering  above  the  City,  too  grand  to  be  forbidding.  But  it 
has  not  deigned  to  show  itself  in  full  since  my  arrival.  The  Clouds 
have  swept  across  it  from  morning  till  night,  veiling  its  majestic  out- 
lines. To-morrow,  maybe,  it  will  uncover,  and  let  me  see  its  famous 
figure. 


454 


LETTER  NO.  19. 


Same  City  and  Hotel, 

Friday,  July  4,  1890. 

My  anticipations  have  been  realized,  the  Clouds  have  fled,  and  all 
day  the  Sun  has  been  out  in  his  happiest  humor,  and  helped  to  put 
Cape  Town  and  its  environments  in  their  best  attire.  The  Hotel,  as 
I have  hitherto  said,  is  located  upon  the  suburbs,  under  the  shadow 
of  Table  Rock  : it,  behind,  and  the  town  spread  out  below.  Seaward. 
Though  out  some  miles  or  more,  it  is  accessible,  and  a Horse  Tram 
leads  from  the  front  gate  into  the  City — though  the  walk,  to  my 
pedestrian  capacity,  is  easy.  The  Hotel  is  in  a large  enclosure,  orna- 
mented with  trees  and  flowers — now,  however,  in  the  Winter  time, 
many  of  them  have  lost  their  leaves.  Yet,  there  was  to-day  no  sense 
of  frost — the  temperature  genial  and  delightful. 

Cape  Town,  like  all  South  African  towns,  can  be  muddy  with  its 
red  clay,  and  after  the  heavy  rain,  readily  puts  on  that  habit.  We, 
therefore,  went  down  on  the  Tram,  and  reaching  the  centre  of  the 
City,  walked  about  the  streets  and  visited  the  Curio  Shops  and  Stores, 
a few  of  which  were  very  good.  I bought  some  Silver  leaves  that 
grow  on  Table  Mountain ; when  cured  and  pressed  they  afford  an 
admirable  surface  on  which  to  paint;  I got  several  with  an  excellent 
representation  of  the  Town  and  Mountain.  I bought,  also,  a fine 
Photograph,  which  will  be  a worthy  companion  for  the  North  Cape, 
Fuziyama,  Rio  Harbor,  and  other  noted  places  already  hanging  on 
our  walls;  I bought,  too,  one  of  Cape  Point,  the  Headland  of  the 
Cape  of  Good  Hope,  and  whilst  in  Kimberley,  commissioned  my 
Friend  Louis  I.  Seymour  to  buy  me  one  representing  the  Diamond 
Mines,  which  are  well  worthy  to  take  their  place  by  the  side  of  those 
I have  already  named  among  the  World’s  Wonders.  He  will  send 
it  to  me  at  our  home,  by  mail.  And  then  I bought  some  Books  on 
Africa,  to  while  away  the  hours  on  our  three  weeks’  voyage  to  South- 
ampton. These  doings,  together  with  looking  in  the  Shop  windows 
and  at  the  people,  consumed  the  morning  hours,  and  Lunch  was  on 
when  we  returned. 

In  the  afternoon,  the  Sun  having  dried  up  much  of  the  mud,  we 
walked  into  the  City,  visiting  the  Botanical  Gardens  and  Museum, 
reaching  them  through  a long  Avenue  of  trees,  constituting  a street, 
now  in  their  Winter  nakedness.  On  one  side  lay  the  Gardens,  on 


CAPE  TOWN. 


455 


the  other,  some  Public  Grounds,  fenced  in,  and  beyond  them  the 
Governor’s  House  and  Private  residences,  till  at  the  farther  end  we 
reached  the  Museum,  fronting  the  Houses  of  Parliament  across  the 
way — the  latter  a handsome  brick  Edifice,  trimmed  with  stucco  in 
imitation  of  Granite,  with  a Portico  on  each  of  the  four  sides,  with 
Corinthian  Columns,  said  to  have  cost  moi’e  than  a million  of  dollars. 

We  visited  the  Museum ; an  admirable  collection,  especially  of 
Birds,  which  my  old  Friend  Mr.  Layard  urged  me  to  see,  on  his 
account,  having  spent  many  months  of  his  young  life  in  organizing 
and  arranging  it,  when  he  resided  here  for  a number  of  years  as  the 
Private  Secretaiy  of  Sir  George  Gray,  then  Governor.  Mr.  Layard 
seemed  to  recall  with  great  pride  and  satisfaction  this  work,  and  told 
me  many  interesting  things  about  it;  and,  certainly,  it  is  most  credit- 
^ible  to  his  industry  and  scientific  skill  and  learning.  The  Collection 
is  numerous,  and  well  prepared  and  preserved.  But,  of  course,  I 
cannot,  in  these  running  Letters,  now  any  more  than  hitherto  else- 
where, attempt  to  give  even  a summary  of  its  contents.  I should 
have  been  gratified,  had  time  permitted,  to  have  lingered  over  the 
Deer  Department,  the  fullest  and  best  I have  seen  of  the  South  Afri- 
can Species,  which  are  exceedingly  numerous.  This  I have  before 
spoken  of,  I think,  in  former  pages. 

In  another  portion  of  the  Building  is  tlie  Library,  a large,  well- 
ventilated  and  lighted  Room,  with  an  admirable  Collection.  In  an 
independent  Apartment  is  the  Donation  of  Sir  George  Gray,  consist- 
ing of  Books,  many  of  them  Illuminated  and  rare  Editions,  and  other 
precious  things.  When  in  Auckland  I told  you  of  a similar  munificent 
Donation  of  Sir  George  to  that  City.  It  rarely  happens  that  the  same 
individual  confers  two  such  bounties  upon  different  Countries. 

The  Evening,  by  this  time,  was  approaching,  and  we  returned.  I 
cannot  describe  to  you  in  adequate  terms,  and  tongue  the  splendid 
scene  which  was  before  and  arouird  us  whilst  we  walked.  The  Sky, 
purified  by  the  rain,  was  without  a Cloud;  the  houses  of  the  City  were 
around  us,  stretching  to  the  Sea.  Before  us,  and  backing  all,  massive, 
precipitous,  was  Table  Mountain,  three  thousand  eight  hundred  and 
fifty-two  feet  in  height,  seemingly  a solid  mass  of  dark  Living  Rock, 
whose  summit,  in  the  clean  air,  seemed  chiselled  to  a plane — a mag- 
nificent bulk  in  its  repose.  Adjoining  it  on  the  right,  fronting  out- 
ward, my  left  looking  towards  it,  is  Devil’s  Peak,  three  thousand  three 
hundred  and  fifteen  feet  high ; and  on  the  other  side,  a short  distance 


456 


LETTER  NO.  19. 


away,  is  the  Lion’s  Head,  two  thousand  feet  in  height — all  three, 
lately  swept  by  Clouds,  uncovered  now,  towering  above  the  houses 
gathered  at  their  base,  looking  over  them  toward  the  Ocean,  and  pre- 
senting, in  their  clean-cut  nakedness,  a grandeur  I have  never  seen 
surpassed.  Table  Mountain,  with  its  associates,  even  under  the 
enthusiastic  descriptions  their  presence  evokes,  has  not  been  over- 
done by  those  who  have  spoken  or  written  of  them. 

At  Dinner  time,  my  Bank  friend  brought  me  a package  of  Papers 
and  two  Letters — one  from  you  and  one  from  Margaret ; the  former 
May  29,  the  latter  June  1. 

These  only  confirm  the  gratification  your  others  afforded  me — 
things  in  general  moving  comfortably  and  well  with  you  in  the  Old 
Home,  save  an  interregnum  of  “ no  Cook  ” : Mr.  Topsy  having  got 
upset  himself,  clean  upset  Mrs.  Topsy  in  his  catastrophe.  I hope  the 
interregnum  was  short,  and  a new  Dynasty  has  long  since  begun, 
better  than  the  outgoing — could  not  well  be  worse,  I apprehend. 

To  Margaret : The  same  of  yours  as  of  Taylor’s — glad  it  came — a 
welcome  guest.  I thought  no  more  would  come  to  the  Cape,  but 
that  I would  meet  others  at  Brown,  Shipley  & Co.’s,  Loudon.  Upon 
reflection,  however,  several  more  will  be  written  before  the  Letter 
sent  from  Sydney  will  I’each  you,  requesting  that  direction.  I forget 
the  long  distance  my  Letters  have  to  travel,  and  the  time  it  takes.  I 
expect  I will  have  to  order  some  that  will  arrive  when  I have  gone 
to  be  sent  after  me. 

I read  with  deep  regret  of  the  furious  storm  of  which  you  speak, 
and  the  losses  of  my  friends : in  some  instances  the  loss,  though  far 
distant  from  my  own  property,  will,  I fear,  leave  me  the  bag  to  hold. 

I have  many  more  things  to  talk  of,  which  your  Letters  suggest ; 
but  they  will  have  to  await  our  meeting,  when,  for  hours,  we  will 
gather  up  the  threads  of  incident  about  our  homes,  and  weave  them 
into  a story  of  the  time  I have  been  away. 

Same  City  and  Hotel, 

Saturday,  July  5,  1890. 

The  right  to  change,  which  belongs  at  this  season  to  the  Cape 
Town  weather,  was  asserted  to-day.  It  resembled  one  of  those  which 
our  April  knows  how  to  manufacture — alternate  shower  and  sunshine, 
and  not  unlike  in  temperature.  Now,  the  Sun  shone — and,  now,  it 


CAPE  TOWN. 


457 


didn’t;  now,  mist  and  drops  of  water  scud  through  the  atmosphere — 
now,  they  were  gone,  one  could  not  see  whither.  But  the  Mountain 
never  took  the  cloth  from  his  Table ; during  the  livelong  day,  the 
Clouds  hung  like  drapery  about  it. 

We  did  not  stop  for  that.  We  walked  down  town,  and  taking  a 
Hansom,  the  chief  mode  of  conveyance  here,  and  drove  to  the  Wharf 
to  inquire  for  our  Deck  Chairs,  which  Captain  Winder,  of  the  Dun- 
robin  Castle,  kindly  brought  on  from  D’Urban,  when  we  left  his 
Vessel  there.  We  found  them  readily;  the  Officer  kindly  said  there 
was  no  charge  upon  them,  and  he  would  retain  them  for  us  till  the 
day  of  our  departure,  when  they  could  be  easily  transferred  to  the 
Steamer,  the  Landing  of  which  was  a few  rods  distant. 

Returning,  I got  a piece  of  Silver  for  our  Set.  Then  we  visited 
the  Market,  and  then  stepped  in,  near  by,  to  see  the  United  States 
Consul,  Captain  George  F.  Hollis,  from  Boston,  Massachusetts,  who 
received  us  most  cordially,  and  we  had  a pleasant  chat.  Having  been 
so  long  without  Newspapers,  I asked  him  the  news.  He  said  the 
Tariff  Bill  was  hanging — probably  there  would  be  no  action  this  Ses- 
sion. Charles  had  spoken  of  the  Blair  School  Bill,  and  the  action  of 
some  of  oui-  friends;  I wanted  to  know  about  that — being,  I conceive, 
the  most  far-reaching  and  pernicious  Scheme  ever  proposed  in  Congress 
at  any  period  of  our  History ; not  only  defeating  the  aims  of  those 
who  desire  the  Education  of  the  masses,  but  remitting  them  to  infinite 
debauchery  and  peculation.  Oh  ! he  said,  that  is  gone.  Not  reflect- 
ing that  my  views  may  run  counter  to  his,  I,  involuntarily,  said,  thank 
the  Great  Being,  from  whom  all  blessings  flow ! It  will,  in  addition 
to  other  good  things,  be  a lesson  to  those  so-called  Statesmen,  who, 
instead  of  leading  and  instructing  and  elevating  the  people,  afraid  of 
their  own  little  future  are  ever  watching  what  they  deem  the  current, 
and  that  they  may  float  upon  it,  forthwith  converting  themselves  into 
feathers.  In  this  special  case  the  blow  is  the  harder,  because  the 
leader  of  the  movement  is  esteemed  a crank,  if  not  a lunatic,  and  fitter 
for  an  Asylum  than  the  United  States  Senate. 

On  our  return,  we  stopped  and  visited  the  Houses  of  Parliament. 
The  Bodies  were  not  in  Session  to-day.  It  is  composed  of  two 
Houses — the  Council  and  the  Assembly — both  elective  by  constit- 
uencies not  unlike  our  State  Senate  and  House  of  Delegates,  but  with 
a property  qualification  in  the  Electors.  We  visited,  however,  the 
Chambers — handsome  Halls,  worthy  of  the  handsome  exterior.  The 


458 


LETTER  NO.  19. 


Janitor  escorted  us,  and  was  very  polite,  saying  that  Monday  would 
be  an  important  day,  there  being  an  issue  between  the  Government 
and  the  opposition  with  regard  to  the  construction  of  Railways  in 
the  Colony,  the  Government  favoring — from  my  observation  of  the 
Country  I have  no  doubt  the  opposition  is  right — and  if  we  would 
leave  our  names  he  would  secure  seats  for  us,  that  we  might  favor- 
ably hear  the  discussion.  We  did  so,  and  will  try  to  attend. 

The  Botanical  Garden  is  obliquely  opposite,  and  extends  on  a line 
with  the  Museum  along  the  Avenue  for  more  than  one-half  its  length. 
We  entered  at  the  lower  gate  and  walked  entirely  through.  Near 
the  entrance  and  before  the  Museum  stands  a very  primitive  and 
poorly-executed  Statue  of  Sir  George  Gray,  in  token  and  memory  of 
his  services  and  benefactions.  There  is  nothing  in  the  Gardens  or 
their  contents  that  need  detain  us  in  the  description.  It  is  long  and 
narrow,  much  inferior  in  its  collection  and  arrangement  to  many  of 
which,  from  time  to  time,  I have  written.  But  we  must  not  forget 
that  Cape  Town  is  not  Tropical,  and  cannot  produce  or  sustain  vege- 
tation of  such  infinite  variety  as  those  regions,  and  that  now,  the  time 
of  the  green  has  gone,  and  that  of  the  “sere  and  yellow”  has  come. 
We  visited  two  Banks  whilst  in  town — the  Standard  Bank  of 
Africa,  my  Friend  Mr,  Nead’s  Correspondent  on  his  Letter  of  Credit, 
and  mine,  the  Bank  of  Africa,  to  draw  some  money  for  our  further 
travels.  The  former  is  an  elegant  Building ; on  first  sight,  with  its 
massive  Corinthian  Columns,  I took  for  the  City  Hall,  The  latter  is 
more  unpretentious.  My  Bank  friends  were  exceedingly  courteous,  and 
if  any  more  Letters  come,  I am  quite  sure  they  will  receive  them  and 
pay  all  charges  for  me  and  forward,  whilst  I continue  my  movements 
around  the  World,  A little  breeze  of  dissatisfaction  is  often  good. 
Yesterday  was  the  Fourth  of  July,  and  celebrated  here.  The  Con- 
sul reminded  me  of  it,  and  said  if  he  had  known  of  my  presence,  I 
should  have  received  an  Invitation  to  the  Festival  as  an  honored 
guest,  I knew  it  was  the  Anniversary,  and  purposely  kept  dark  ; 
for  I knew,  too,  the  thing  he  spoke  of  with  regard  to  myself  would 
certainly  have  taken  place,  and  I would  have  had  to  norate  about  the 
Great  Republic  and  the  Eagle,  I had  rather  travel  quietly  and  incog. 
and  let  the  Colossus  speak  for  herself,  which  I am  aware  full  well 
she  does,  and  will  more  and  more,  from  year  to  year,  about  the  Globe, 
The  United  States,  in  Foreign  Countries,  excites  only  the  idea  of 
gigantic  power,  with  no  conception  of  trouble,  or  internal  or  external 


CAPE  TOWN. 


459 


annoyance,  for  all  the  centuries  yet  to  come.  May  that  conception 
be  realized,  evermore ! 

In  the  afternoon  it  drizzled  ofP  and  on,  and  I did  not  go  out.  I 
had  intended  to  go  to  hear  some  Negro  Singers,  purporting  to  be  from 
Virginia,  travelling  in  behalf  of  the  Hampton  Institute.  They  sing 
Plantation,  Jubilee,  and  Hallelujah  songs,  and  some  who  have  heard 
them  tell  me  they  are  highly  respectable  in  appearance  and  have 
melodious  voices.  But  when  the  hour  in  the  Evening  came,  it  was 
raining  and  dark,  and  we  determined  to  postpone  our  attendance  till 
Monday. 

Same  City  and  Hotel, 

Sunday,  July  6,  1890. 

I strolled  during  the  Morning  for  some  time  about  the  streets,  and 
at  the  hour  of  Service,  went  to  the  Cathedral  of  the  Established 
Church  of  England — near  the  centre  of  the  City,  not  far  from  the 
Houses  of  Parliament.  It  is  a large  Edifice,  with  a lofty  tower,  and 
in  the  front  enclosure  stands  a Monument  to  the  memory  of  Robert 
Gray,  one  of  the  former  Bishops  of  the  Diocese. 

I found  the  Church  quite  full — a large  Congregation;  but  one  of 
the  ushers  or  wardens  met  me  at  the  door  and  gave  me  an  advanced 
and  good  seat.  There  were  from  forty  to  fifty  male  Choristers,  old, 
middle  aged,  and  young,  and  their  Music  was  uncommonly  fine,  which 
in  a measure  compensated  for  the  miserable  intoning  of  the  Service.  I 
never  hear  this  wretched  rendering  of  our  Liturgy — glorious  in  itself 
above  most  human  compositions — that  I am  not  annoyed.  Where  it  is 
done,  the  puling  whine  is  carried  into  the  reading  of  the  Prayers,  the 
Hymns,  and  the  Scriptures,  and  what  was  intended  to  be  spoken  with 
manly  utterance,  worthy  of  the  lofty  themes  and  the  noble  words  in 
which  they  are  couched,  is  doled  out  in  sorry  weakness.  This  Morn- 
ing, the  Reader’s  voice  spoiled  utterly  every  part  of  the  Service  he 
attempted,  for  that  voice  had  long  since  been  ruined  by  this  custom  of 
the  Church.  Our  magnificent  Liturgy  was  only  saved  by  the  trained 
voices  of  the  Chorus,  who  filled  the  Cathedral,  in  their  appropriate 
responses,  with  a volume  of  melody. 

The  Sermon  was  by  the  Dean,  whose  name  I did  not  learn,  and 
whose  utterance  sent  little  to  my  ear ; but  from  what  I heard,  I would 
much  rather  have  listened  to  the  Choristers  render,  in  their  Cathedral 
Music,  the  “ Gloria  in  Excelsis.” 


460 


LETTER  NO.  19. 


In  the  afternoon,  we  hired  a Carriage  for  a drive.  The  weather 
threatened — indeed,  behaved  a while  in  April  style — and  we  hesi- 
tated to  venture.  But  having  little  time  at  our  disposal  now,  we 
determined  to  risk  it;  and  Fortune  favored.  Clouds  would  now  and 
then  gather,  and  spit  defiantly  in  our  face,  and  then  speed  away  ; but, 
on  the  whole,  the  weather  for  the  hours  we  drove  could  not  have  been 
better — alternate  cloud  and  sunshine — yet  the  former  high  and  the 
panorama  clean  uncovered. 

We  drove  through  the  Kloof — Kloof  is  Dutch  for  Valley,  Gulch — 
the  depression  between  the  Table  Mountain  and  Lion’s  Head.  Rising 
from  the  town,  its  houses  lay  outspread  before  us.  Table  Bay,  the 
Cape  Town  Harbor  beyond,  with  its  Shipping  anchored  out  and  at 
the  Landing.  On  one  side  rises  the  end  of  Table  Rock;  on  the  other 
the  striking  eminence  of  the  Lion’s  Head — the  Reservoir  and  numer- 
ous Villas  scattered  evei’y  where.  Reaching  the  summit  of  the  Kloof, 
we  came  in  sight  of  the  Ocean,  heaving  from  its  seemingly  boundless 
expanse,  and  breaking  in  surf  upon  the  rocky  beach,  whilst  Table 
Mountain  extended  back  along  its  trend  in  rugged  lines  called,  in 
strained  vocabulary,  the  Twelve  Apostles.  Descending,  we  passed 
Camp’s  Bay  Hotel,  a Sea-side  Resort,  and  drove  a mile  or  two,  skirt- 
ing the  base  of  Table  Mountain  and  its  Apostles,  and  then  returned, 
passing  the  Round  House,  once  the  Governor’s  Residence,  the  Driver 
said,  now  used  as  a Hotel ; we  continued  ujion  the  Shore,  rounding 
Lion’s  Head,  which  during  our  drive,  with  different  perspective, 
assumed  different  and  striking  shapes,  sometimes  seeming  a Butte  of 
stratified  rock  perched  upon  a bulky  excrescence  of  the  Earth.  We 
drove  continuously  along  the  Shore,  by  Sea  Point,  Danger  Point, 
and  several  fine  Hotels,  and  other  striking  sites — now  of  rugged  stone, 
now  of  boulders  rounded  by  the  waves,  now  of  solid  rock  cut  into 
long  grooves  by  the  waters’  ceaseless  chisel.  At  one  place,  the  Driver 
called  our  attention  to  the  wreck  of  a Steamer,  which  met  its  fate 
nearly  thirty  years  ago,  when  not  a soul  was  saved  in  the  great  dis- 
aster. The  Ocean,  to  show  his  power  in  his  wrath,  was  coming  in 
when  we  passed  with  thunderous  roar  a few  rods  from  the  road  upon 
which  we  drove ; on  the  other  side  of  us  were  many  j^retty  homes, 
backed  by  the  immediate  presence  of  the  Lion’s  Head  and  the  more 
distant  shadow  of  the  Monarch  Mountain,  its  summit  thronged  with 
flying  clouds.  It  was  a sight  worth  seeing. 


CAPE  TOWN  TO  KALK  BAT. 


461 


We  stopped  at  the  Hausa  Hotel,  when  we  I’eached  the  City  proper, 
to  call  upon  our  Friends,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Betz,  who  had  been  polite  to 
us,  you  remember,  in  Port  Elizabeth,  since  moved  and  now  living 
here,  and  had  a pleasant  chat,  and  then  came  back  to  the  Hotel,  hav- 
ing di’iven  a distance  of,  probably,  ten  or  twelve  miles  over  an  excellent 
road.  We  had  a four-seated  Carriage  and  falling  top,  which  we  let 
up  and  down  several  times,  to  meet  the  humor  of  the  freaky  weather; 
and  scarcely  had  we  descended  from  it  and  reached  our  Rooms,  when 
the  rain,  as  if  holding  up  for  our  benefit,  came  down  in  torrents. 

Same  City  and  Hotel, 

Monday,  July  7,  1890. 

We  had  an  early  Breakfast,  and  walking  to  the  Railroad  Station, 
by  half-past  eight  o’clock  were  on  the  way  to  Kalk  Bay,  seventeen 
miles  South  of  Cape  Town.  It  is  on  False  Bay,  your  Map  will  show 
you,  an  inlet  of  the  Sea,  bounded  on  its  West  by  the  Cape  of  Good 
Hope,  which  projects  like  a finger  into  the  Southern  Ocean. 

This  Road  runs  into  the  Cape,  and  at  present  is  seeking  Simons- 
town,  a Naval  Station,  six  miles  further  on.  Like  all  the  Roads  in 
South  Africa,  it  is  Narrow  Gauge,  three  feet  six,  and  an  excellent 
one,  with  good  Coaches — for  all  here  are  built  in  Coach  fashion — 
English  and  European  styles  generally. 

For  two-thirds  of  the  distance  across  the  Peninsula  which  separates 
Table  Bay  from  False  Bay,  the  Country  on  either  hand  is  highly 
improved  with  numerous  Country  Homes  and  Villas.  Beyond,  and 
where  not  improved,  it  presents  the  appearance  of  poverty.  The 
lands  are  sand  and  swamp,  with  puny  growths,  showing  what  labor 
and  money  it  must  have  cost  to  cover  a portion  of  it  with  the  evi- 
dences of  comfort  of  which  I have  spoken. 

Numerous  Villages  have  sprung  up  at  the  various  Stations,  the 
chief  of  which  is  Wynberg.  This,  like  the  near  Country  on  the  other 
side  of  Cape  Town,  you  remember  I mentioned  is,  likewise,  a Wine- 
producing  region,  and  the  Cape  boasts  greatly  of  its  product.  Here 
is  grown  the  grape  which  makes  the  Constantia,  regarded  by  the 
knowing  as  a no  mean  rival  of  Europe’s  best. 

The  Mountain  Range,  which  seems  to  be  an  extension  of  the 
Devil’s  Peak,  bounded  our  West,  with  undulating  outline — the  im- 
provements, and  cultivation,  and  homes  in  full  view,  creeping  from 


462 


LETTER  NO.  19. 


the  lowlands'  up  its  flanks.  After  a while  we  left  the  view  of  the 
Harbor,  and  came  in  sight  of  False  Bay,  which  then  continued  to 
extend  along  our  East.  Approaching  Kalk  Bay,  the  incoming 
waters  break  upon  the  rocks,  in  numerous  reefs,  and  dash  them- 
selves in  many  lines  of  snow-white  surf,  I don’t  think  anywhere  I 
have  ever  seen  surpassed  in  beauty. 

We  thought  of  taking  a Carriage  and  driving  to  Simonstown ; but 
when  we  reached  the  terminus  of  the  Road,  we  could  see  the  place  so 
well,  seated  in  full  view  upon  the  Shore,  and  the  whole  intervening 
Country,  that  we  thought  the  drive  would  be  a useless  waste  of  time. 
We  could  see,  too,  far  beyond,  how  the  Mountain  Range  continues, 
until  at  last  it  forms  the  Headland  of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  the 
rounding  of  which  was  one  of  the  famous  events  in  the  progress  of 
the  Woi’ld’s  Discovery. 

Whilst  waiting  at  Kalk  Bay  for  the  return  Train,  we  observed  some 
children  and  half-grown  girls  paddling  in  the  surf;  suddenly,  whilst 
we  were  looking,  a heavier  wave  took  them  unawares,  and  swept 
nearly  over  them.  One  of  the  smaller  girls  was  knocked  down  by 
its  force,  and  for  a moment  submerged  ; I thought  she  would  be  lost, 
but  her  larger  comrades^seized  and  rescued  her,  holding  fast  till  the 
wave  receded — manifesting  a presence  of  mind  quite  remarkable  in 
ones  so  young. 

Approaching  Cape  Town  on  our  return,  the  Monarch  Mountain 
was  nearly  hid  in  Clouds,  and  between  us  and  it  a slight  shower 
descended.  The  Sun  behind  us,  using  the  rock  face  for  a canvass, 
painted  upon  it  a splendid  Bow,  than  which  I never  saw  one  more 
gorgeous — seeming  to  tell  us,  that  the  noble  thing  was  there  not 
alone  to  adorn  the  Landscape  with  its  Imperial  presence,  but,  also, 
as  a medium  through  which  Nature  might  convey  to  us  her  gentler 
beauties. 

I did  not  return  to  the  Hotel  to  Lunch,  but  remained  down  town 
and  took  mine  in  a Restaurant,  and  then  walked  about  the  streets  and 
visited  again  the  Library,  and  rummaged  through  its  contents,  espe- 
cially the  Donation  of  Sir  George  Gray.  I found  this  latter  very 
valuable  not  only  in  Ancient  and  Modern  works  of  Standard  Authors, 
but  in  tracts  and  fugitive  writings  and  documents,  especially  on  New 
Zealand  and  the  Cape  Colonies — precious  data  for  the  future  His- 
torian. The  main  Library,  also,  is  an  admirable  Collection. 


CAPE  TOWN. 


463 


I then  went  to  the  Parliament  House,  it  being  near  two  o’clock, 
the  hour  of  assembling.  The  Janitor  told  the  Sergeant-at-Arms  of 
the  Assembly  who  I was,  and  he  forthwith  courteously  said  I should 
occupy  a distinguished  seat ; and  I was  conducted  there,  through  the 
throng  which  crowded  the  doorway  and  the  general  seats,  whence  I 
had  a good  view  of  the  House  and  its  proceedings.  The  Public  inter- 
est represented  by  this  throng  is  greatly  aroused,  and  the  question 
to-day  affected  the  overthrow  or  continuance  of  the  Ministry — the 
Ministry  urging  the  construction  of  Railways ; the  opposition  regard- 
ing such  wide-spread  expenditure  as  detrimental  to  the  Public  interest. 

I rather  think,  from  my  observation  of  the  Country,  the  opposition 
right;  for  I do  not  see  what  the  land  produces,  or  can  jn’oduce,  to 
support  Railways.  The  Premier  was  not  in  the  House,  being  sick  ; 
the  Attorney-General,  Sir  T.  Uppington,  conducted  the  debate  on 
the  part  of  the  Government,  and  was  responded  to  by  members,  whose 
names  I did  not  know.  I did  not  think  any  of  them  manifested  any 
ability,  and  the  talk  was  very  drowsy.  I left  before  it  was  over, 
thinking  a walk  in  the  open  air  preferable.  But  I hear  the  Ministry 
were  defeated  by  an  overwhelming  majority. 

In  the  Evening,  we  attended  the  Exhibition  of  Jubilee  Singers,  or 
Virginia  Concert  Company,  jjurporting  to  be  from  our  State,  singing 
partly  in  behalf  of  the  Hampton  Institute,  they  said.  The  attend- 
ance was  not  large.  There  are  ten  of  them,  highly  respectable,  well- 
dressed,  and  well-behaved,  of  all  shades  of  color,  from  clear  white  to 
jetty  black — the  black  ])redominating.  They  have  good  voices,  and 
when  they  sang  the  unafFected  songs  of  their  Race,  did  finely ; not 
so,  when  they  attempted  High  Art.  But  I have  heard  more  inspir- 
ing Music  in  our  own  State  from  untrained  Negro  voices,  when,  in 
the  sensuous  exhuberance  of  their  nature,  they  gave  themselves  up  to 
the  influence  of  their  simple  melodies. 

Same  City  and  Hotel, 

Ttiesday,  July  8,  1890. 

I called  to  see  Mrs.  Carter  and  deliver  a Letter  from  Mrs.  Layard ; 
but  she  was  absent  from  the  City.  I,  also,  inquired  for  Hr.  Ather- 
stone,  as  I did  in  Grahamstown,  that  I might  deliver  the  Letter  from 
Mr.  Layard.  But  he,  though  a member  of  the  Upper  House  of 
Parliament,  is  absent  from  the  City  on  account  of  sickness.  I will 


464 


LETTER  NO.  19. 


not  now  see  him  to  tell  him  of  his  Old  Friend  and  his  condition, 
which  I promised  to  do. 

I wrote  Letters  to  Mrs.  William  Baker,  and  Mrs.  Nelson,  respect- 
ively, in  the  tone  which  incidents  affecting  each  required. 

I went  to  the  Bank  of  Africa  to  instruct  the  Manager  to  forward 
my  Mail  to  Brown,  Shipley  & Co.,  my  Bankers  in  London,  should 
any  come  for  me  after  my  departure.  I hardly  know  whether  any 
more  will  come  to  me  here  from  you ; for  I cannot  tell  when  mine 
reached  you  requesting  a change  of  direction.  But  I hope  when  I 
arrive  in  England  to  receive  some,  and  I shall  run  up  to  London 
to  inquire.  I sincerely  trust  that  not  a few  will  await  me  there. 

Your  last  two  were  properly  stamped.  But  I would  cheerfully 
pay  deficient  postage  and  fines  to  get  the  Letters.  It  not  only  relieves 
you  all  of  very  high  rates  coming  here,  but  they  are  well  worth  it  to 
me.  When  you  began  to  write  to  England,  you  knew  all  about  the 
rates,  and,  therefore,  coidd  make  no  mistakes.  Most  of  the  Papers 
you  sent  I will  never  receive — wandering  whither,  who  knows,  or  in 
the  waste-basket  somewhere. 

The  afternoon  I spent  in  writing  some  of  the  foregoing  pages,  in 
reading  a portion  of  the  five  or  six  packages  of  Papers  that  have  come 
to  hand,  and  in  resting  and  lounging.  I know  of  nothing  in  the 
Pai)ers  worthy  of  any  coannent;  maybe  I will  come  across  something 
when  I read  the  rest  aboard. 

To-morrow  I take  Steamer  for  the  long  run  to  Southampton.  Glad 
of  it!  you  will,  doubtless,  say;  Glad  of  it!  For  we  can  see  each 
other  now,  with  no  intervening  Countries,  across  the  open  Sea ! Could 
I obliterate  the  distance,  I would  be  with  you  without  the  delay  of 
travel — taking  “the  Wings  of  the  Morning.”  But  the  time  has  not 
yet  come  when,  in  Physics  as  in  Morals,  the  Wish  is  Father  of  the 
Thought.  Of  course,  it  will  one  day — when  we,  like  our  “ Sighs,” 
will  “ be  wafted  from  Indus  to  the  Pole.”  Pope  might  have  gone  a 
little  further,  and  prophesied  as  much. 

[Whilst  at  Kimberley,  Mr.  Williams  gave  me  a small  bag  of  Gar- 
nets, which  are  found  in  the  earth  with  the  Diamonds.  I came  ofif 
and  left  them  by  oversight  in  the  Chamber  at  the  Hotel.  I tele- 
graphed to  Mr.  Seymour  to  look  them  up  and  forward  them  to  me 
in  Cape  Town.  He  promptly  responded  in  the  following  Telegram, 
sending  at  the  same  time  by  Express  another  supply  of  Garnets  : 


CAPE  TOWN—LETTEB  FROM  LOUIS  I.  SEYMOUR.  465 


“ MEMORANDUM. 


De  Beees  Consolidated  Mines,  Limited. 

Kimberley,  July  6,  1890. 


To  Governor  Holliday, — 


My  Dear  Sir, — The  package  of  Garnets  for  which  you  telegraphed 
had  been  jumped,”  presumably  by  some  of  the  servants,  and  I sent 
you  a package  which  I happened  to  have  in  my  Room,  hoping  it  will 
do  as  well.  I can  get  all  I wish  at  any  time.  Hoping  you  received 
them,  and  that  you  and  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Nead  are  enjoying  your  trip, 
I remain. 

Sincerely  yours, 

P.  O.  Box  492.  Louis  I.  Seymour.” 


When  Mr.  Williams  and  Mr.  Seymour  and  I parted  in  Kimber- 
ley, I told  them  I would  write  to  them  on  my  arrival  at  Home.  I 
did  so,  and  several  Letters  passed — them  I here  insert  as  matter  of 
interest,  together  with  several  extracts  from  the  Kimberley  Papers 
they  sent  me,  among  them  a synopsis  of  one  of  their  Reports,  con- 
taining valuable  information  with  regard  to  Gold  and  Diamonds. 

‘‘Kimberley,  19  October,  1890. 

Hon.  F.  W.  M.  Holliday, — 

My  Dear  Governor, — Your  very  kind  and  interesting  Letter  of  1st 
September  came  to  hand  last  week. 

I am  pleased  to  hear  that  you  reached  your  home  safely  and  well, 
and  that  you  carried  with  you  pleasant  memories  of  your  visit  to  our 
Mines.  I am  sending  you  by  this  mail  a copy  of  our  last  Annual 
Report,  which  has  been  published  since  you  were  here.  It  may  recall 
to  your  mind  the  various  operations  connected  with  the  winnowing 
of  Diamonds. 

We  are  plodding  along  in  the  same  groove  as  when  you  were  here, 
turning  out  about  200,000  carats  of  Diamonds  a month.  Mr.  Rhodes, 
our  Chairman,  has  formed  a new  Ministry  and  become  Premier  of  the 
Colony.  I think  her  leading  Banks  have  succumbed,  and  to  the  tune 
30 


466 


LETTER  NO.  19. 


of  several  hundi’eds  of  thousands  of  Pounds.  Our  young  friend  Sey- 
mour lost  a considerable  amount  by  one  of  them. 

All  South  Africa’s  eyes  are  turned  toward  the  new  Country  on  the 
North — Mashonaland  and  Matabeleland.  The  Pioneer  party  has 
taken  possession  of  the  reputed  Gold-bearing  portion  of  it  and  send 
good  reports  of  the  Mineral  wealth  they  find.  I hope  to  make  a 
fortune  out  of  this  new  Countiy  and  Diamonds  during  the  next  two 
yearSj  and  return  to  the  most  lovely  spot  on  the  face  of  the  Earth — 
California.  Mrs.  Williams  joins  me  in  kindest  regards  to  you.  Trust- 
ing we  shall  meet  again  in  the  near  future,  I remain, 

Faithfully  yours, 

Gardner  F.  Williams.” 


“De  Beers  Consolidated  Mines,  Limited. 

Kimberley,  October  20,  1890. 

Hon.  F.  W.  M.  Holliday, — 

My  Dear  Governor, — Your  Letter  of  September  1 arrived  last 
week,  and  was  a very  welcome  reminder  of  your  visit  to  Kimberley,, 
and,  also,  that  some  one  in  our  good  Country  had  thought  of  us. 

We  received  your  Letter  from  Cape  Town,  and  trust  that  you  will 
not  get  at  all  under  obligations  to  us  for  sending  the  Garnets,  as  I 
can  easily  obtain  any  quantity  at  any  time.  I was  glad  to  learn  that 
you  received  them  in  time. 

I am  sorry  to  say,  that  I could  not  get  you  the  light  Photograph 
that  you  wished ; but  send  by  this  mail  two  others  as  near  it  as  pos- 
sible. When  I come  home,  I will  bring  you  the  one  you  liked  so 
much  and  exchange  it  for  the  one  I send  now.  I,  also,  send  you  a 
Report  on  the  working  of  the  Consolidated  Mines,  which  will,  I am 
sure,  be  of  interest,  and  give  you  the  actual  facts  about  things. 

Shortly  after  you  left,  we  took  a house  in  Belgravia,  and  are  now 
very  comfortably  settled  and  feel  very  much  at  home.  We  expect 
soon  to  have  a horse  and  cart,  which  will,  also,  serve  to  increase  our 
enjoyment. 

We  were  unfortunate  enough  to  lose  a thousand  dollars  in  the  Cape 
of  Good  Hope  Bank  Smash ; but  do  not  complain,  for  there  are  so 


CAPE  TOWN— LETTER  FROM  LOUIS  I.  SEYMOUR.  467 


many  people  here  who  lost  all  they  had  by  it,  that  our  loss  is  trifling 
in  comparison. 

I expect  shortly  to  assume  charge  of  the  Engineering  Department 
in  all  four  Mines,  now  that  things  in  De  Beers’  are  in  fairly  good 
shape,  and  then  my  hands  will  be  full  of  business.  However,  as  I 
am  happiest  when  busiest,  I do  not  worry  about  the  extra  work. 

We  were  sent  a slip  from  the  Ledger,  written  by  Mr.  Head,  in 
which  he  speaks  kindly  of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Williams  and  ourselves. 

I am  sure  we  all  enjoyed  your  visit  more  than  you  can  imagine, 
and  we  shall  be  very  glad  to  accept  your  hospitality  when  we  return 
to  our  good  Country  again.  This,  I hope,  will  be  about  March  1893, 
when  I hope  to  leave  here  to  accept  a position  in  London. 

Mrs.  Seymour  sends  her  kindest  regards  to  you,  and  only  a moment 
ago,  without  knowing  I was  writing  to  you,  said : “ Won’t  it  be 
splendid  to  meet  the  Governor  again  ! ” 

With  kindest  wishes,  and  the  hope  that  both  our  lives  may  be 
spared  for  other  meetings,  I remain. 

Sincerely  your  Friend, 

Louis  I.  Seymour.” 


“De  Beers  Consolidated  Mines,  Limited. 
General  Manager’s  Department. 


All  Letters  to  be  Addressed 
TO  THE  “General  Manager.” 


Kimberley,  July  20,  1892. 


Ex-  Governor'  Holliday, — 

My  Dear  Governor, — Your  kind  Letter  of  January  20,  ’92,  came 
duly  to  hand,  and  has  been  read  and  re-read  by  Mrs.  Seymour  and 
myself  many  times.  Your  visit  here  started  us  to  thinking  in  new 
channels,  and  helped  very  materially  to  get  us  out  of  the  rut  which 
one  is  apt  to  fall  into,  if  not  very  careful. 

As  a further  incentive,  I bought  Draper’s  “ Intellectual  Develop- 
ment of  Europe,”  Avhich  is  one  of  the  most  profound  books  I ever 
read.  He  must  have  had  a fine  brain  to  have  collected  and  digested 
all  the  information  it  contains.  His  “ Conflict  of  Science  and  Religion  ” 
is,  also,  an  admirable  array  of  facts,  and  shows  up  our  friends  the 
Catholics  in  a dim  light. 


468 


LETTER  NO.  19. 


Mr.  Williams  has  now  been  away  on  liis  furlough  nearly  four 
months,  during  which  time  I have  been  filling  his  position,  as  well 
as  my  own,  and  you  can  readily  infer  have  all  I can  do  comfortably. 
He  went  away  on  a well-earned  holiday,  and  will  not  be  back  before 
the  end  of  the  year.  I hope  to  have  my  own  vacation  about  this  time 
next  year  : take  in  the  Chicago  Exposition,  and  see  my  Dear  Mother 
once  more.  I can  truly  say,  that  I owe  all  to  my  Mother,  and  I am 
charmed  that  she  can  be  told  of  it  whilst  she  is  living. 

Mrs.  Seymour  is  perfectly  well  and  enjoys  her  life  here  in  Kim- 
berley much  better  than  at  first.  We  have  a nice  little  house,  all 
paid  for,  in  the  best  part  of  the  town,  at  the  South  end  of  the  Gar- 
dens. I have  joined  the  Club,  don’t  drink  whiskey,  am  United  States 
Consular  Agent,  and  run  up  my  Country’s  Flag,  with  full  forty-six 
stars,  every  Sunday. 

Kimberley  is  still  shrinking,  and  when  the  Exhibition  is  over,  it 
will  be  dull  enough.  In  truth,  the  Exhibition  will  be  like  the  last 
flicker  of  the  candle  just  before  going  out. 

I should  esteem  it  a great  favor,  if  you  can  find  time  to  send  us  a 
line  now  and  then  about  yourself.  One  is  never  an  exile  if  a friend, 
one  of  his  own  Countrymen,  remembers  him. 

Mrs.  Seymour  sends  her  best  wishes  to  you,  in  which  I am  glad 
to  join. 

Very  sincerely  yours, 

Louis  I.  Seymour.” 


California’s  Gold  Product. 

Fabulous  Contributions  from  a Single  State  to  the  Wealth  of  the  Wo7'ld. 

[New  York  Herald.'] 

Expert  miners  and  prospectors  predict  that  the  new  South  African 
gold  fields,  of  which  the  wonderful  City  of  Johannisberg  is  the  com- 
mercial centre,  will,  when  fully  developed,  prove  to  be  the  richest 
ever  discovered.  The  character  and  extent  of  the  deposits  in  that 
territory  certainly  warrant  the  expectation  that  further  operations  will 
place  it  among  the  most  famous  mining  regions  in  history,  its  output 
already  exceeding  that  of  any  other  district  of  similar  geographical 
area,  with  the  single  exception  of  California. 


THE  WORLD'S  DIAMONDS. 


469 


It  is  to  California,  indeed,  that  historians  must  turn  for  the  standard 
with  which  to  ascertain  the  comparative  richness  of  all  other  gold 
fields.  The  record  of  that  State  in  the  yield  of  the  precious  metal 
stands  without  parallel  in  the  history  of  mankind.  No  other  territory 
ever  developed  gold  deposits  so  extensive,  so  rich,  or  so  enduring,  nor 
has  any  ever  witnessed  pi’ofitable  mining  operations  extending  over 
such  long  periods  of  time. 

The  gold  produced  in  California  since  1850  exceeds  $1,250,000,000, 
and  the  yield  at  present  amounts  to  about  $13,000,000  a year,  or  per- 
haps $7,000,000  more  than  that  of  any  other  State.  The  output  has 
decreased  somewhat  in  recent  years,  but  the  decline  is  due,  not  to  any 
general  exhaustion  of  the  territory,  but  to  the  suspension  of  the 
hydraulic  mines,  which  of  themselves  turned  out  something  like 
$10,000,000  annually. 

These  figures  set  a high  mark  for  boomers  of  the  South  African 
gold  fields.  They  represent  a contribution  to  the  wealth  of  the  World 
never  equalled  by  any  similar  area  of  territory  on  the  face  of  the 
Earth.  And  California,  notwithstanding  the  diversion  of  vast  sums 
of  her  energy  and  capital  to  profitable  mining  operations  for  other 
minerals,  is  still  turning  out  more  than  one-third  of  all  the  gold  pro- 
duced in  the  United  States.” 


“The  Woeld’s  Diamonds, 

The  World’s  stock  of  diamonds  has  increased  enormously  in  the 
last  fifteen  years.  In  1876  the  output  of  the  African  mines  was  about 
1,500,000  carats,  last  year  it  was  over  4,000,000,  and  the  great  “trust,” 
which  controls  all  the  princijDal  mines,  assert  that  they  have  16,000,000 
carats  “in  sight”  at  the  present  time.  Meantime  the  demand  for 
diamonds  has  wonderfully  increased,  and  they  are  higher  to-day — 
partly  because  of  the  “ trust,”  but  also  because  of  increased  demands — 
than  they  were  a year  or  two  ago.  In  one  respect  the  diamond 
industry  is  ditferent  from  almost  all  others.  Its  product — that  is,  of 
gems — is  never  “consumed.”  Of  gold  and  silver,  a much  larger 
amount  than  most  people  would  believe  is  literally  consumed  in  the 
arts  past  recovery,  but  a diamond  once  cut  goes  into  the  World’s 
great  stock,  and  it  is  liable  to  come  upon  the  market  at  any  time. 
Hence  the  World’s  annual  taking  of  diamonds,  which  appears  to  be 


470 


LETTER  NO.  19. 


steadily  increasing,  even  at  advancing  prices,  is  an  index  of  how  much 
of  its  surplus  earnings  it  can  afford  to  expend  yearly  in  this  particu- 
lar form  of  luxury.  The  romance  of  Diamond  Mining  is  all  gone. 
It  is  now  a matter  of  excavating  vast  beds  of  blue  clay  by  machinery, 
washing  it  and  sifting  out  the  diamonds,  which,  after  being  roughly 
sorted  for  size,  are  sold  in  bulk  by  weight.  The  men  who  do  the 
actual  work  are  mere  laborers,  and  their  pay  is  proportionately  small.” 
— Boston  Post. 


“The  Diamond  Mines. 

How  the  Precious  Gems  are  Obtained  in  South  Africa. 

Working  by  electric  light  in  the  desert  of  Africa,  with  power  fur- 
nished by  coal  costing  $60  a ton,  was  the  novel  experience  of  George 
D.  Lougstreet,  an  English  Mining  Engineer.  During  a long  resi- 
dence in  South  Africa,  Mr.  Longstreet  travelled  as  far  into  the  interior 
as  Livingstone  did,  visited  a number  of  places  which  have  never  been 
seen  by  a dozen  white  men,  and  in  many  regions  found  that  he  was 
the  first  white  man  the  natives  had  seen. 

“ The  control  of  the  diamond  mines  by  the  Rothschilds,”  said  Mr. 
Longstreet,  “ is  entirely  due  to  the  over-capitalization  of  the  original 
companies.  Some  of  them  were  capitalized  as  high  as  $25,000,000. 
They  are  now  limiting  the  production  of  gems  to  the  demand.  Dia- 
monds will  never  go  down  in  price,  and  the  days  of  romance  in  South 
Africa  diamond  mining  are  past  forever.  In  early  days  the  mines 
were  divided  into  little  allotments  of  thirty  feet  square,  and  each  of 
these  was  sold  to  a corporation  for  $500,000 — a neat  sum  for  a little 
land  scarcely  large  enough  to  put  a shanty  on.  I have  seen  work- 
ing for  one  company,  and  in  one  mine,  as  many  as  10,000  naked 
Zulus,  whose  work,  oddly  enough,  was  carried  on  by  electric  light 
within  a year  after  it  was  invented.  In  those  days  our  chief  difficulty 
was  to  prevent  the  thefts  of  the  workmen.  We  had  an  overseer  for 
every  five  men,  and  yet  the  beggars  managed  to  steal  large  numbers 
of  diamonds.  These  Zulus  are  born  thieves.  All  the  tales  of  Rider 
Haggard,  whom  I knew  in  South  Africa,  I have  heard  often  from 
the  lips  of  the  Zulus. 

“ The  mines  are  four  in  number,  the  Kimberley  mine  proper  being 
but  one  of  them.  It  is  700  feet  deep,  and  the  10,000  men  at  work 


DIAMOND  MINING. 


471 


in  it  look  like  mere  pygmies.  It  was  originally  all  one  hill,  formed 
by  some  gigantic  volcanic  action  from  below.  Long  before  the  chim- 
ney was  dug,  a few  diamonds  were  washed  from  this  bill  into  the 
streams,  where  they  were  discovered.  At  Kimberley  the  diamonds 
were  embedded  in  a strange,  hard  mud,  which  had  to  be  blasted  with 
dynamite  before  it  could  be  brought  up.  It  had  to  remain  a year 
before  the  precious  stones  could  be  secured.  We  could  not  use  the 
crushing  machines,  for  they  would  crush  the  diamonds. 

“ The  most  beautiful  diamond  by  far  that  I have  ever  seen  was  the 
one  found  at  Kimberley  by  a little  American  named  Porter  Rhodes. 
I paid  £5  just  to  look  at  it.  The  sight  was  a liberal  education  for  a 
diamond  expert.  He  afterward  sold  it  to  the  Countess  of  Dudley  for 
1500,000.  It  was  lost  once  before  it  left  Africa,  and  Rhodes  pre- 
sented the  Zulu  who  returned  it  with  a reward  of  $75,000.” — Chicago 
Tribune. 


“Diamond  Mining. 

Early  Worldng. 

The  history  of  Diamond  Mining  in  Griqualand  West  is  a record 
of  changes  and  improvements  in  methods  and  advices  unsurpassed  in 
any  part  of  the  World.  Passing  over  the  primitive  means  of  manipu- 
lating the  diamondiferous  soil  employed  at  the  River  diggings,  and 
coming  to  the  actual  mines  discovered  in  1870-1,  it  will  be  found 
that  there  has  been  one  continued  state  of  progression — slow,  it  is  true, 
but  none  the  less  sure.  The  first  workers  in  the  four  great  producing 
centres  of  Dutoitspan,  Bultfontein,  De  Beers  and  New  Rush,  did  all 
hauling  and  lifting  by  hand,  carrying  the  ground  in  bnckets  and  bags 
from  the  claims  to  the  Scotch  cart,  where  the  depositing  floors  were 
at  a distance,  or  to  wheel  or  hand-barrow  when  sorting  was  at  the 
edge  of  the  mines.  As  the  excavations  deepened,  it  was  found  neces- 
sary to  improve,  and  stagings  were  erected,  on  which  windlasses, 
worked  by  hand,  hauled  up  the  ground  in  buckets.  The  first 
horse-gear  excited  wonder  and  admiration,  and  when  a steam  engine, 
capable  of  drawing  up  small  casks,  was  introduced,  men  stared 
open-mouthed,  and  exclaimed  that  the  engineer  had  reached  the 
limit  of  discovery. 


472 


LETTER  NO.  19. 


The  Water  Trouble. 

When,  in  1873,  water  began  to  accumulate  in  the  New  Rush  (Kim- 
berley) Mine,  the  diggers  had  full  belief  in  their  ability  to  hold  it  in 
check  and  reduce  it  by  the  use  of  their  buckets  and  windlasses,  and 
week  after  week  they  kept  steadily  at  the  appointed  task,  only  to  have 
to  admit  at  last  that  their  labor  was  in  vain.  Then  the  Mining  Board 
of  the  day  gave  a contract  to  an  amateur  engineer,  who  undertook  to 
clear  the  Mine,  He  obtained  a small  steam  engine,  some  canvas  hose, 
and  announced  that  on  a certain  date  the  expectant  diggers  would  see 
the  water  flowing  out  in  a two-inch  stream.  At  the  hour  appointed, 
a large  crowd  assembled  to  witness  the  start  of  the  machinery  ; steam 
was  up  and  the  signal  given.  After  a few  minutes  of  suspense,  the 
diggers  turned  away,  crest-fallen  and  disappointed,  for  the  canvas, 
being  unable  to  stand  the  pressure,  burst  in  all  directions,  and  the 
experiment  was  a total  failure.  Then  some  old  Australian  diggers 
undertook  to  give  relief  with  long-tours,  or  simple  wooden  contrivances 
formed  into  pumps.  These  were  made  in  twenty  foot  lengths,  worked 
by  hand,  and  intended  each  to  raise  the  water  their  own  height,  deposit 
it  in  receptacles  provided  for  the  purpose,  and  thus,  by  a succession 
of  lifts  up  the  reef,  get  to  the  surface.  Scarcely  necessary  is  it  now 
to  say  that  this  ingenious  contrivance  also  failed  to  prove  workable, 
and  then  the  iron  pipe  and  pumping  gear  found  its  Avay  into  use. 

Reef  Struggles. 

The  struggles  with  the  reef  have  been  equally  numerous  and  trying, 
all  efforts  to  get  an  angle  of  repose  proving  abortive.  Hauling  with 
buckets,  and  having  locomotives,  trucks,  and  steam  navvies,  alike 
failed,  and  the  troubles  of  the  digger  seemed  at  one  time  likely  to 
become  more  than  he  could  overcome. 

Present  Methods. 

When  it  became  evident  that  mining,  to  be  not  only  paying  but 
possible,  would  have  to  be  on  a large  scale,  men  combined  and  formed 
companies,  but  even  their  united  resources  frequently  proved  unequal 
to  the  requirements,  with  the  appliances  at  hand,  and  the  skill  of  the 
first  engineers  to  be  obtained  anywhere  was  brought  to  bear  on  the 
problems  presented.  Whether  perfection  has  yet  been  reached  it  is 
impossible  to  say,  in  an  age  when  there  seems  to  be  no  limit  to  man’s 


DIAMOND  MINING. 


473 


ingenuity,  but  so  far  as  the  resources  of  science  can  be  made  avail- 
able, they  have  been  drawn  upon.  There  may  be,  and  probably  are, 
more  costly  plants  to  be  found  in  other  mining  centres,  but  it  is  ques- 
tionable whether,  throughout  the  Universe,  a more  perfect  hauling 
plant  can  be  found  than  that  now  to  be  seen  on  the  North  side  of  the 
Kimberley  Mine.  With  the  adoption  of  the  underground  system  of 
working,  it  was  found  imperative  to  concentrate  and  strengthen  the 
plant,  place  it  farther  from  the  edge  of  the  mine,  and  sink  a shaft  of 
dimensions  far  in  excess  of  anything  previously  known.  This  shaft 
is  now  partly  in  use,  and  within  a mouth  will  be  employed  to  its 
utmost  capacity,  pumping  and  hauling  from  the  thousand  feet  level, 
although  it  has  in  reality  reached  a depth  of  twelve  hundred  feet.  It 
is  divided  into  four  compartments,  two  of  which  are  for  hauling  blue, 
one  for  the  man-cage  to  take  the  workmen  up  and  down,  and  one  for 
the  pumping  gear. 

About  two  years  ago,  those  who  passed  along  the  North  Circular 
Road  saw  excavations  of  an  extensive  nature  going  on,  and  were  not 
a little  puzzled  to  understand  what  they  were  intended  for.  After  a 
time,  massive  blocks  of  concrete  were  seen  going  down  into  parts  of 
the  hole  thus  made,  and  the  remaining  part  rapidly  assumed  the  shape 
of  a huge  tank.  The  concrete  was  made  of  quartzite  taken  from  the 
thousand  feet  level,  crushed,  mixed  with  Portland  cement  in  propor- 
tions of  ten  to  one,  and  when  dry,  formed  a material  as  hard  as 
granite.  This  was  the  foundation  for  the  machinery  intended  to  be 
erected,  and  its  total  height  or  depth  upwards  of  thirteen  feet.  The 
receptacle  adjoining  is  capable  of  holding  one  hundred  thousand 
gallons  of  water.  The  wonder  engendered  by  the  wide  area  covered 
by  the  massive  foundations  was  not  very  long-lived,  as  the  arrival 
of  portions  of  the  machinery  to  be  placed  thereon  told  its  own  tale. 
Never  before  had  anything  like  it  been  seen  here,  but  before  making 
some  brief  references  to  the  gear,  a few  words  about  the  smoke  stack 
will  not  be  inappropriate.  This  was  built  by  Messrs.  Joicey  & Son, 
of  Newcastle.  It  is  a hundred  and  twenty  feet  high,  six  feet  in 
diameter,  and  weighs  eleven  tons.  The  lower  half  is  of  quarter  inch, 
and  the  upper  half  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  iron.  It  came  out  in 
segments,  a third  of  the  circumference  of  the  stack  and  four  feet  in 
height,  and  it  gives  some  idea  of  the  resources  of  the  Company  and 
the  statf  employed  to  mention  a few  facts  in  connection  with  the  erec- 
tion of  the  huge  cylinder.  Within  a fortnight  of  the  arrival  of  the 


474 


LETTER  NO.  19. 


parts,  the  whole  was  in  position  at  the  appointed  spot.  Exactly  a 
week  were  the  men  at  work  on  it,  and  so  great  was  their  zeal  that 
they  averaged  four  hundred  rivets  per  diem.  The  rivetting  was  done 
on  a bed  on  the  South  side  of  the  road,  and  when  all  was  ready,  the 
work  of  carrying  the  monster  across  the  road  .and  erecting  it  on  the 
exact  spot  required,  only  occupied  four  and  a half  hours,  and  this 
was  done  without  hitch  or  accident  of  any  kind.  The  stack  is  sup- 
ported by  two  sets  of  inch  steel  wires,  which  are  anchored  to  blocks 
of  concrete  weighing  fifteen  tons  each.  It  carries  off  the  smoke  from 
the  boilers,  and  is  fitted  with  an  automatic  damper  regulator,  which 
maintains  the  steam  pressure  at  the  exact  point  required,  without  the 
possibility  of  danger  arising  from  over -charging. 

The  Pumping  Gear, 

Turning  now  to  the  pumping  gear,  it  is  difficult  to  do  anything 
like  justice  to  it  in  a short  description.  It  has  replaced  the  four 
pumps  at  different  levels  formerly  in  use,  and  is  capable  of  coping 
with  the  water  even  if  the  latter  should  increase  to  an  enormous 
extent.  The  spar-wheel  is  thirty  feet  in  diameter,  and  the  spokes 
are  about  ten  feet  long,  while  its  weight,  with  the  shaft,  is  about 
ninety  tons.  The  machine  is  driven  by  a vertical  triple-expansion 
engine  of  four  hundred  indicated  horse-power.  The  pump  is  capable 
of  lifting  between  thirty  and  forty  thousand  gallons  of  water  per  hour, 
or  well  towards  a million  gallons  per  diem,  from  the  twelve  hundred 
feet  level.  The  quantity  at  present  raised  is  about  twelve  thousand 
gallons  a day,  and  this  is  distributed,  by  pipes,  to  the  different  washing 
machines  in  use. 

The  Machinery  House. 

Turning  from  the  shaft  head  and  pumping  gear,  entrance  is  at  once 
gained  to  the  machinery  house — shed  would  be  a misnomer.  This 
is  a building  sixty  feet  long,  forty-three  feet  wide,  and  thirty-three 
feet  high  at  the  eaves.  It  is  built  of  the  best  hand  bricks,  laid  in  a 
mortar  composed  of  quartzite  taken  from  the  bottom  of  the  mine  and 
pulverized,  and  an  addition  of  oue-tenth  Portland  cement.  The  side 
walls  are  two  feet  thick,  the  pressure  on  them  being  considerable,  and 
the  back  and  front  walls  a little  less.  The  floor  is,  of  course,  of  con- 
crete, and  below  it  are,  in  parts,  cellars  for  storage  purpose  and  to 
give  access  to  man-holes  beneath  the  machinery. 


DIAMOND  MINING. 


475 


The  Hauling  Gear. 

The  chief  feature  of  the  machinery  room  is,  of  course,  the  hauling 
gear.  This  consists  of  a vertical  inverted  tandem  compound  con- 
densing winding  engine  of  three  hundred  horse-power  nominal.  It 
is  fitted  with  Corliss  valve  gear,  and  vacuum  dash  pots,  for  the  eco- 
nomical consumption  of  fuel.  The  bed  plate  of  the  gear  weighs  thirty 
tons,  and  from  it  rise  four  iron  standards  of  nearly  five  tons  each,  the 
main  crank  shaft  weighs  fifteen  tons,  and  the  weight  of  the  whole 
is  very  little  short  of  one  hundred  tons.  About  a dozen  feet  from 
the  ground,  and  supported  on  iron  brackets  off  the  main  standards,  is 
the  low-pressure  receiver,  five  feet  in  diameter,  twenty  feet  long, 
and  weighing  about  seven  tons.  Each  of  the  engines  is  fitted  with  a 
balance  gridiron  throttle- valve,  close  to  the  cylinder,  to  cut  off  steam 
immediately.  The  exhaust  steam  from  the  high-pressure  cylinder  passes 
through  the  steam-jacketted  receiver  to  the  low-pressure  cylinders 
already  mentioned.  A single  lever  works  all  four  throttle  valves, 
and  a similar  lever  works  the  valve  of  the  hydraulic  reversing  engine. 
A hand  wheel  controls  a cast-steel  clutch  on  the  main  shaft,  and  the 
rope  may  be  lengthened  or  shortened  at  a moment’s  notice.  Each 
engine  is  provided  with  a vertical  air  pump,  cast  into  the  bed  plates, 
and  these  pumps  draw  water  and  air  from  the  surface-condenser  out- 
side the  building.  All  the  water  from  the  mine — nearly  twelve 
thousand  gallons  an  hour — is  pumped  through  the  surface-condenser 
on  its  way  to  the  floors. 

The  Condenser. 

The  condenser  is  six  feet  in  diameter  and  sixteen  feet  long,  fitted 
with  two  hundred  wrought  iron  tubes,  each  three  and  a half  inches 
in  diametei’,  and  made  thus  much  larger  than  usual  in  order  to  pass 
candle  ends  and  other  small  articles  which  accumulate  in  the  mine. 
The  condenser  increases  the  power  of  the  engines  by  thirty  j^er  cent, 
and  naturally  induces  a corresponding  economy  in  the  cost  of  work- 
ing. All  the  cylinders  are  steam-jacketted,  then  covered  with  fossil 
meal  (a  very  light  German  non-conductor)  to  a thickness  of  an  inch 
and  a half;  outside  this  is  an  inch  coating  of  hair  felt,  and  the  whole 
is  encased  in  a jacket  of  steel.  All  valves,  both  inlet  and  exhaust, 
are  placed  in  the  cylinder  heads  to  reduce  the  clearance,  and  the 
bottom  high-pressure  and  the  top  low-pressure  cylinder  heads  are 


476 


LETTER  NO.  19. 


cast  in  one  piece,  in  which  is  fitted  Tripp’s  metallic  packing.  The 
height  of  this  one  block  of  machinery  is  over  thirty  feet. 

The  Main  Winding  Gear. 

The  main  winding  gear  consists  of  two  large  reels,  about  eighteen 
feet  in  diameter  over  all,  the  first  inner  measurement,  from  which  the 
winding  begins,  being  nine  feet  in  diameter.  The  hauling  wire  is 
tape  shape,  nine-sixteenths  of  an  inch  thick,  and  three  and  five-eighths 
inches  broad,  and  it  just  fits  into  the  reel  in  the  flanges  and  winds  up 
in  the  same  way  as  an  ordinary  tape  measure  would.  The  wheels  are 
capable  of  holding  eighteen  hundred  feet  of  this  rope,  so  that  no  larger 
wheels  will  be  required  until  more  than  eighteen  hundred  feet  in  depth 
has  been  reached.  A single  foot  break  for  each  reel  suffices  to  stop 
and  hold  the  engine.  The  main  hauling  gear  is  capable  of  lifting  six 
loads  of  sixteen  cubic  feet  each,  weighing  nearly  five  tons,  from  the 
thousand  feet  level,  in  forty  seconds,  including  starting  and  stopping, 
or  five  hundred  and  forty  loads  an  hour,  the  actual  rate  of  progression 
when  in  full  motion  being  over  three  thousand  feet  per  minute.  The 
engines  were  built  by  Messrs.  Simpson  & Co.,  of  Pimlico,  London, 
from  designs  made  a year  ago  in  the  De  Beers  Company’s  Kimberley 
Offices.  The  bed  plates  only  arrived  here  on  April  15th,  but  with 
the  aid  of  a travelling  crane  fixed  in  the  side  walls  of  the  building, 
and  capable  of  lifting  up  to  ten  tons,  such  rapid  progress  has  been 
made  that  within  four  weeks  the  last  of  the  plant  will  be  at  work. 

Saving  Their  Legs. 

Entering  and  leaving  the  mine  by  ladders,  especially  when  it  gets 
to  a depth  of  eight  hundred  or  a thousand  feet,  is  tedious,  tiring,  and 
dangerous,  and  it  is  now  intended  to  employ  a lift  or  man-cage.  This 
will  be  two-decked,  capable  of  holding  thirty  men,  and  doing  the 
distance  in  less  than  a minute.  The  cage  is  to  be  worked  by  two 
independent  drums  and  gear,  placed  under  the  same  roof. 

The  Boiler  House. 

The  boiler  house  is  a lofty  lean-to  to  the  machinery  room,  sixty 
feet  by  forty-five  feet.  It  is  already  fitted  with  two  horizontal  return 
tubular  boilers,  each  six  and  a half  feet  in  diameter  and  eighteen  feet 
long  between  the  tube  sheets.  Each  is  fitted  with  one  hundred  and 
eighteen  wrought-iron,  three  and  a half  inch,  tubes.  The  boilers  are 


DIAMOND  MINING. 


477 


furnished  with  steel  water  fronts,  having  two  doors,  each  fifteen  by 
twenty-four  inches.  These  water  fronts  prevent  the  bricks  being 
knocked  out  by  the  firemen,  and,  further,  stop  the  radiation  of  heat. 
Each  boiler  has  a mud  drum  three  feet  in  diameter  and  nine  and  a 
half  feet  long.  The  gasses  from  the  furnaces  pass  under  the  boilers, 
return  to  the  front  through  tubes,  and  pass  back  over  the  top,  and  in 
contact  with  the  boilers,  to  the  down  take,  and  from  underneath  the 
ground  in  a brick  fine  to  the  smoke  stack  outside.  These  boilers  at 
present  work  the  pumping  engine,  and  the  fuel  used  is  ordinary  fire- 
wood, thrown  into  the  furnaces  in  heavy  blocks  just  as  it  comes  from 
the  forest.  Three  more  such  boilers  are  to  be  placed  in  the  same 
room,  each  pair  fitted  with  steam  drums  three  feet  in  diameter  and 
eighteen  feet  long,  to  ensure  dry  steam  being  delivered  to  the  engines. 
When  completed,  all  the  machinery  on  the  surface  of  the  mine  will 
be  worked  from  this  centre. 


Other  Works. 

Of  the  miles  of  tram  line,  the  washing  gear,  compounds,  and  other 
essentials  to  the  prosecution  of  the  works,  it  would  be  tedious  to  talk, 
as  the  details  are  more  or  less  familiar  to  residents  here,  and  previous 
remai'ks  have  related  chiefiy  to  the  new  plant,  now  all  but  completed. 
It  will,  however,  be  of  interest  to  know  that  the  resources  of  the 
Company  are  equal  to  much  of  the  work  hitherto  considered  beyond 
the  capacity  of  Colonial  workshops.  In  proof  of  this  it  may  be  stated 
that  several  Lancashire  boilers  of  thirty  horse-powei',  belonging  to 
the  old  plant,  are  being  converted  into  boilers  of  four  times  the  power. 
Two  are  already  completed  and  in  use,  and  three  others  in  process  of 
conversion.  How  great  a saving  this  is  can  be  readily  imagined. 
Close  at  hand  are  the  foundry,  capable  of  almost  any  castings ; the 
shops  with  drilling,  cutting,  and  punching  machines,  and  the  Nasmyth 
hammer.  Carpenters  and  joiners  fashion  the  wood  required,  and  a 
complete  electric  plant,  supervised  by  Mr.  Drummond,  supplies  the 
lighting.  All  is  order,  regularity,  and,  best  of  all,  contentment.  The 
chief  officers  of  the  Company  are  on  the  best  terms  with  all  the  work- 
men, know  each  one  individually,  and  are  treated  with  a respectful 
freedom,  indicative  of  the  best  relations.  A visit  to  the  works  is  a 
genuine  treat,  and  with  Mr.  Seymour  or  Mr.  Jennings,  of  the  Kim- 
berley Mine,  as  guide,  the  use  of  every  bit  of  machinery  is  made  clear, 
and  what  at  first  appears  a perfect  puzzle  becomes  simplicity  itself. 


478 


LETTER  NO.  19. 


With  the  new  shaft  utilized  to  its  full  capacity,  the  other  shafts 
will  not  be  used,  but  they  are  to  be  preserved  to  serve  as  exits  in  the 
unlikely  event  of  the  main  shaft  being  suddenly  closed.  At  the 
thousand  feet  level  the  tunnel  communicating  with  the  mine  is,  by 
an  ingenious  contrivance,  fitted  with  an  endless  line  of  trucks,  and 
this  system  is  being  extended  to  the  surface  lines  between  the  mine 
and  the  floors,  promoting  great  economy  by  reducing  the  number  of 
locomotives  in  use. 

The  whole  of  the  new  plant  has  been  made  from  designs  and  plans 
by  Mr,  L.  I.  Seymour,  the  Company’s  Chief  Engineer  and  Acting 
General  Manager.  In  assuming  the  responsibility  of  designing  mag- 
nificent machinery  for  such  an  important  undertaking,  Mr.  Seymour 
must  have  had  a very  anxious  time  for  the  last  two  years,  but  the 
works  are  a splendid  tribute  to  his  professional  skill,  and  there  is  now 
no  fear  for  the  result.  He  has  carefully  watched,  it  might  almost  be 
said,  the  fastening  of  every  bolt  and  the  placing  of  every  joint,  kept 
a watchful  eye  on  every  detail  while  giving  general  supervision,  and 
by  the  exercise  of  tact,  secured  the  best  services  of  each  man  and  boy 
under  him,  and  made  all  as  desirous  as  himself  for  the  success  of  the 
new  plant.  Early  and  late,  night  and  day,  he  has  been  kept  at  it, 
and  whatever  triumph  is  his  has  been  well  earned.  A busier  man 
there  is  not  to  be  found  in  South  Africa,  nor  a cooler  and  more  court- 
eous, whether  in  the  office  or  at  the  works.  When  he  goes  to  the 
latter,  one  rapid  glance  suffices  to  show  him  what  has  been  done  in 
his  absence,  a defect  is  pointed  out  in  the  quietest  of  tones,  with  simple 
instructions  how  to  .remedy  it,  and  the  most  difficult  operations  are 
directed  in  such  a way  as  to  rob  them  of  the  semblance  of  difficulty.”] 

On  Steamship  Athenian, 

The  Union  Line, 

Wednesday,  July  9,  1890. 

We  came  down  to  the  Steamer  from  the  International  Hotel  in  a 
Carriage,  and  sent  our  baggage  by  wagon,  about  mid-day.  I found 
my  Cabin  ready  for  me,  and  it  was  taken  by  the  steward,  and  all 
safely  stowed.  He  not  only  assured  me  I should  have  it  to  myself, 
but  took  my  trunk  and  put  it  in  an  adjoining  unoccupied  room,  that 
I might  have  more  space  in  my  own. 


STEAMSHIP  ATHENIAN— CAPE  TOWN. 


479 


At  Lunch,  one  o’clock,  the  Captain — AV.  Bainbridge — came  and 
introduced  himself,  saying  he  was  notified  in  Port  Elizabeth  I would 
be  aboard,  and  invited  me  to  come  and  take  a seat  at  his  table.  I 
declined,  saying  I was  travelling  with  friends  and  could  not  leave 
them.  He  then  invited  me  to  bring  them  with  me.  I thanked  him 
for  his  courtesy,  but  insisted  on  my  declination. 

We  did  not  get  off  till  five  o’clock  p.  m.,  and  in  the  interim,  on 
Deck,  numbers  came,  and  were  introduced  to  me.  The  American 
Consul,  Captain  Hollis,  was  there  to  see  me  off;  and  I was  introduced 
to  General  Joubert,  Commander-in-Chief  of  the  Transvaal ; to  the 
Editor  of  the  Cape  Town  Times,  J.  Mudie  Thompson,  who  promised 
to  send  me,  to  Virginia,  copies  of  the  Paper  containing  a pass  between 
the  Consul  and  some  American  Citizens  with  regard  to  the  Invitation 
of  the  Negro  Minstrels  to  the  Fourth  of  July  Festivities — the  Consul 
having  invited  them ; these  Gentlemen  declining  to  attend  with  such 
Company.  The  Correspondence,  with  some  asperity,  arose ; another 
reason  why  my  avoiding  the  Festivities  was  wise — I might  have  been 
mixed  up  in  the  disagreeable  muddle.  Our  young  Friends,  Mr.  Betz 
and  AVife,  came  down  to  see  us  off ; and  Mr.  AVolfe,  who  w’as  polite, 
you  remember,  to  me  in  Kimberley,  sought  me  out  on  Deck  and  told 
me  he  would  be  my  fellow-passenger  to  Southampton,  which  I told 
him  was  pleasant  news. 

At  five  o’clock  we  untied  from  the  Landing — for  in  Cape  Town 
we  have  one — the  exception,  you  will  recall,  to  all  the  Harbors,  so- 
called,  in  South  Africa — and  steamed  out  upon  our  long  voyage  to 
Southampton  of  six  thousand  miles.  The  day  had  been  uncommonly 
fine,  and  ended  with  an  Evening  equally  beautiful.  Passing  out,  the 
Landing  was  thronged  with  people  to  see  us  off  and  bid  us  all  Hail ! 
and  Farewell ! and  we  started  under  happiest  auspices.  The  Sun  set 
splendidly,  and  Table  Mountain  and  its  flanking  Associates  stood 
out  grandly,  clean-cut  against  the  Sky,  Cape  Town  and  its  suburbs, 
with  its  fifty  or  sixty  thousand  people,  clustered  at  then’  base.  The 
Devil’s  Peak  and  Lion’s  Head  rose  pyramidally  on  either  side  of  the 
level  Table  Rock,  and  the  Signal  Station  on  the  smooth-rounded 
Lion’s  Rump  gave  note  of  our  departure.  AVhilst  moving  Seaward, 
the  lights  were  sprung  from  the  houses  of  the  City,  and  the  Stars 
came  out  thick-set  upon  the  Heavens ; a little  later,  and  we  were  with 
them  alone  upon  the  Ocean,  and  Africa  had  sunk  beyond  its  waters. 


480 


LETTER  NO.  19. 


At  Dinner,  the  Steward  came,  at  the  Captain’s  request,  and  asked 
which  of  my  friends  I desired  to  have  with  me  at  his  table  ? I told 
him  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Nead.  He  said  Mr.  Wolfe  desired,  also,  to  be 
with  me,  to  which  I gave  cheerfully  my  assent,  and  when  the  Dinner 
hour  came,  we  were  seated,  1 nearest,  on  the  Captain’s  left ; opposite 
are  a Mr.  Fisher  and  a Mr.‘ Pease,  prominent  men  of  the  Colonies, 
and  a Lady,  whose  name  I did  not  hear.  All  these  attentions  are 
utterly  unsought — indeed,  modestly  avoided ; why  I should  receive 
them,  wherever  I travel,  I do  not  know. 

The  Ship  is  one  of  the  finest  of  the  Union  Fleet,  and  the  largest, 
save  the  Mexican  and  Tartar,  upon  the  former  of  which,  you  remem- 
ber, I voyaged  from  D’Urban  to  Port  Elizabeth.  This  is  of  three 
thousand  seven  hundred  and  eighty-two  tonnage,  and  forty-six 
hundred  horse-power,  and  while  not  gorgeously  is  handsomely  finished 
and  appointed — with  Electric  Lights. 

When  we  passed  out  of  Table  Bay  upon  the  South  Atlantic,  heavy 
winds  and  currents  met  us,  and  we  began  to  roll,  which,  whenever  I 
was  conscious  during  the  night,  was  steadily  continued. 

On  the  Same  Steamee, 

Thursday,  July  10,  1890. 

All  night  the  rolling  of  the  Ship  continued,  and  this  morning  things 
had  not  improved — the  currents  and  the  wind  fighting  her  on  her 
course.  About  eight  o’clock  she  suddenly  ceased  to  struggle,  and  her 
machinery  stopped.  On  inquiry,  I found  somewhat  of  the  same  mis- 
fortune had  befallen  us  that  happened  on  the  Australien,  you  will 
recall — one  of  the  Cylinders  had  come  to  grief.  But  it  was  not  so 
bad  as  that,  nothing  here  was  broken,  only  out  of  order ; then,  we 
rolled  about  for  thirty-six  hours  or  more ; now,  at  eleven,  only  tlrree 
hours  of  delay,  the  good  Ship  was  right  again,  and  we  were  breasting 
bravely  the  winds  and  waves. 

Gradually,  from  hour  to  hour,  they  fell,  and  when  Dinner  came, 
the  fiddles  could  be  taken  from  the  tables,  and  the  calm  surface  of  the 
Sea  reflected  the  myriad  Stars  of  a cloudless  Sky,  and  we  were  hasting 
rapidly  from  the  Colonies  towards  the  Mother  Country,  along,  but 
out  of  sight  of  Africa’s  Western  Coast. 


STEAMSHIP  ATHENIAN-SOUTH  AFRICA. 


481 


These  Colonies  have,  in  my  travels  through  them,  atForded  me 
much  of  interest.  If  yon  have  followed  me,  you  have  learned  some- 
thing of  what  kind  of  Country  South  Africa  is,  and  what  its  future. 
They  have  had  a History,  by  no  means  unworthy  of  the  traveller’s 
note.  There  is  in  them  a coming  Story  of  much  larger  import  to  the 
Great  Powers  of  the  World,  and  the  solution  of  problems  far-reach- 
ing and  profound. 

Bartholomew  Diaz,  in  1486,  was  the  first,  sent  by  King  John  II. 
of  Portugal,  to  round  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  lifting  the  Standard 
of  his  Country  at  Algoa  Bay.  This  was  six  years  before  Columbus 
founded  our  own.  In  1497,  Vasco  de  Gama  rounded  the  same  famous 
Headland  on  his  voyage  to  the  Indian  Seas,  and  on  Christmas  Day 
came  to  Natal,  as  I have  already  told  you. 

In  1602  the  Dutch  East  India  Company  sent  out  a Colony  under 
Van  Riebeck,  a Surgeon,  who  planted  a settlement  at  the  Cape. 
After  them,  came  some  French  and  Piedmontese  Huguenot  Refugees, 
driven  from  their  homes  by  the  Revocation  of  the  Edict  of  Nantes — 
many  of  whose  descendants  to  this  day  live  in  Cape  Town  and  its 
vicinity. 

These  early  settlers  here  met  the  Hottentots,  the  Aborigines  of  the 
Country — called  Hottentots  by  the  Dutch  from  a word  they  used  in  a 
Song,  to  which  they  danced.  These  people’s  dominion  extended  East- 
ward to  the  Gamtoos  River,  and  Northward  on  the  West  Coast  to 
Damara  Land,  and  were  subjugated  and  used  as  slaves  and  concubines 
by  the  vigorous,  lusty  Hollanders.  Beyond  this  River,  they  met  with 
the  Kafirs,  a far  superior  and  more  numerous  people,  with  whom,  in 
their  Colonial  expansion,  they  came  in  contact.  In  1795  the  spirit 
of  Revolution  extended  from  Europe  to  these  Dutch  Colonies,  and 
they  broke  away  from  Holland  and  declared  for  a Free  Republic. 
England  lent  her  aid  to  the  Prince  of  Orange,  and  sending  out  her 
Ships  reduced  them  under  British  Rule.  Subsequently,  shifting  from 
one  to  the  other  authority,  by  the  Treaty  of  Paris  in  181 5 the  Country 
became  English,  and  has  been  ever  since. 

The  Dutch,  severed  for  many  generations  from  refinement  and 
Civilization,  lapsed  into  a coarse,  uncultivated  people,  and  were  desig- 
nated by  the  soubriquet  of  Boers.  But,  whilst  they  despised  all 
culture,  they  did  not  forget  their  Religious  Faith,  and  brought  with 
them  their  Bibles  and  sacredly  preserved  them  in  their  Huts.  They 
looked  upon  themselves  as  God’s  chosen  people,  and  South  Africa  as 
31 


482 


LETTER  NO.  19. 


the  Promised  Land,  and  the  Natives  as  Canaanites,  like  those  of  old, 
to  be  “ smitten  hip  and  thigh,”  and  “ made  to  pass  under  the  harrow,” 
and  consequently  reduced  the  Hottentots  and  Bushmen,  who  lived 
inland  somewhat  farther  North,  to  abject  and  harshest  slavery.  Thus, 
too,  they  regarded  the  Kafirs,  when,  in  their  movements  Eastward, 
they  came  in  contact  with  th%m. 

It  only  required  a few  years  of  English  Rule  to  dissatisfy  this 
sturdy,  uncultured  people,  and  when  the  British  Laws  were  enforced, 
especially  with  regard  to  Slavery  in  the  Colonies,  it  was  the  last  straw 
and  broke  the  Camel’s  back.  The  Boers,  thinking  they  had  the  right 
to  treat  the  Natives  like  the  Israelites  treated  the  Canaanites,  rose  in 
indignation,  and  leaving  their  homes  behind  them,  “ trekked  ” or 
emigrated  into  the  regions  farther  North,  and  laid  the  foundations  of 
what  are  now  the  Orange  Free  State,  and  the  Transvaal  or  South 
African  Republic. 

I have  already  written  of  how  they  went  to  Natal  and  Griqua 
Laud  West,  and  how  the  English  drove  them  thence,  establishing 
Anglo-Saxon  Rule.  The  same  fate  befell  them  in  the  new  lands 
whither  they  had  “ trekked,”  and  the  Orange  Free  State  and  the 
Transvaal  both  passed  under  the  British  Flag,  and  were  so  pro- 
claimed. But  in  1854  the  former  was  abandoned  by  the  English, 
and  the  people  were  allowed  to  form  an  independent  Republican 
Government,  and  in  1884,  under  Gladstone’s  Rule,  the  latter  was 
surrendered,  and  both  are  now  the  Republics  of  the  Boei’s,  and  under 
their  Constitution  and  Laws. 

Within  the  last  few  years.  Gold  has  been  discovered  in,  it  is  sup- 
posed, enormous  quantities  in  the  Transvaal,  notably  at  Barberton  in 
the  Eastern  part  and  at  Johannesburg  near  the  centre  of  that  Repub- 
lic, and  such  tides  of  Immigration  have  flowed  in,  that  Johannesburg 
has  grown  into  a solidly-built  City  of  thirty  thousand  people.  But 
a Boom  was  started  by  the  speculators  a few  months  ago,  which  about 
the  time  of  our  arrival  bursted,  and  things  are  now  flat  in  all  South 
Africa,  just  like  I left  them  in  Australasia. 

A different  kind  of  Revolution,  however,  is  going  on  in  the  Boer 
Republics.  They,  of  course,  have,  like  their  ancestors,  the  Dutch,  a 
developed  intellectual  organism,  only  lapsed  into  rudeness,  not  decay, 
by  neglect;  the  coming  of  the  educated  and  cultivated  from  every 
part  of  the  World,  especially  the  Anglo-Saxon,  has  aroused  their 
ambition,  and  they  are  educating  their  children,  and  particularly 


STEAMSHIP  ATHENIAN— SOUTH  AFRICA. 


483 


teaching  in  their  schools  the  English  tongue.  In  a generation  or  two 
they  will  be  brought  into  closer  contact,  and  will  intermarry,  and  the 
Anglo-Saxon  coming  continually  in  large  volume  to  better  his  fortune 
in  the  Gold  and  Diamond  Finds,  will  overcome  the  inborn  Boer 
antipathy  and  their  Country  will  be  conquered  with  a Trojan  Horse. 
Already  evidences  are  seen  of  increasing  liberality,  and  soon  the 
Anglo-Saxon  will  dominate  over  all  South  Africa — I hardly  think 
in  these  two  Countries  by  annexing  them  as  Colonies  of  England, 
but  rather  by  establishing  Independent  Rule. 

I have  told  you  from  time  to  time  of  the  Country  I have  traversed. 
It  does  not  impress  you,  doubtless,  any  more  than  it  did  me  as  the 
seat  of  a coming  nationality  of  much  import.  The  Mines  of  precious 
Stones  and  Metals,  and  especially  of  Coal,  which  the  Geologist  and 
Traveller  insist  is  in  large  quantities  in  Natal  and  Griqua  Land  West, 
the  Orange  Free  State  and  the  Transvaal,  are  of  most  important  con- 
sequence— the  former  more  especially,  to  induce  the  advent  of  popu- 
lation, like  California  in  1849  and  Victoria,  Australia,  in  1851,  who, 
unable  to  get  away,  became  substantial  producers  and  permanent 
citizens  of  the  Country,  putting  it  generations  in  advance  of  what  it 
otherwise  would  be.  But  I do  not  think  the  Country  itself  is  valuable 
in  itself,  and  can  never  support  a great  population,  for  the  reasons 
given  when  on  travel  through  it. 

I have  told  you  much  in  the  current  of  these  Letters  about  the 
Natives.  The  Hottentots,  an  inferior  Race,  occupied  the  region  of 
Southwest  Africa,  the  sites  of  the  first  settlements.  But  few  of  the 
pure  bloods  are  left;  the  vices  of  our  Civilization,  and  their  mixture 
with  the  Boers,  have  nearly  eliminated  them  from  the  Earth.  Eveiy- 
where  you  see  them,  their  degradation  impresses  you,  and  Griqua 
Land — which  means  Bastard — presents  the  last  phase  of  the  forbidden 
Cross  of  Races,  in  numerous  Albinos — the  flashing  out  of  Human 
Life. 

The  Bushmen,  a more  inferior  Race  still,  have  nearly  gone — flying 
like  the  wild  beasts  before  the  tide  of  Immigration,  till  now  he  is 
rarely  seen,  save  in  the  far-off  parts  of  Bechuanaland  or  the  still  farther 
Kalahari  Desert.  Passing,  like  all  inferior  Races  before  the  white 
man,  rapidly  away. 

The  Kafirs  or  Bantus,  their  sometimes  Ethnographic  title,  are  a 
far  more  numerous  and  vigorous  people,  like  our  own  Negroes,  and 
of  many  tribes,  but  wherever  I have  seen  them,  always  the  same 


484 


LETTER  NO.  19. 


Race — happy;  good-natured,  docile,  gentle,  wherever  I have  come 
across  them.  Their  habitat  is  very  extensive,  taking  up  at  the  Gamtoos 
or  at  the  Great  Fish  River  or  at  the  Kei  River,  whichever  delimita- 
tion is  correct.  They  occupy  the  whole  Country  upon  the  South  and 
Southeast  Coast,  and  sweeping  around  the  habitat  of  the  Hottentots 
and'  Bushmen  to  Damara  Land  on  the  West  Shore  of  the  Continent, 
and  up  to  the  Equatorial  Line — a numerous,  vigorous  and,  when  first 
discovered,  healthy  people.  They  have,  though  often  sturdily  resist- 
ing, ever  gone  down  before  the  White  man’s  arms  and  organization. 
Among  themselves  and  against  each  other  they  have  produced  some 
sturdy  fellows  who,  beginning  with  Chaca,  of  whom  I told  you  in 
Natal,  have  extended  their  rule  beyond  the  Limpopo  into  the  Mata- 
bele  and  Manikos  Country  to  the  Zambezi  River  and  beyond.  In 
Matabeleland,  due  West  from  Sofala  on  the  East  Coast,  it  is  con- 
jectured, as  I have  already  told  you,  is  the  Ophir  of  King  Solomon 
and  his  Temple,  and  where  the  Imperial  Queen  of  Sheba  lived  and 
reigned  right  Royally. 

In  the  regions  Conquered  and  reduced  to  Civilized  Government, 
the  Kafirs  continue  very  numerous,  and  are  said,  like  our  Negroes, 
to  increase.  This  is  contradicted  by  many  residents,  and,  of  course, 
no  census  of  late  having  been  taken,  cannot  be  vouched  for.  All 
agree  that  as  laborers  they  are  getting  worse  from  year  to  year,  and 
cannot  be  educated  to  persistent  effort  in  any  field  of  work.  Conse- 
quently, thousands  of  Indian  Coolies  have  been  introduced  to  keep 
the  Farms  and  other  Fields  of  Industry  agoing,  though  tens  of 
thousands  of  Kafirs  are  idling  in  their  Kraals.  In  Natal,  these 
ignorant  people  have  no  control  in  public  affairs ; in  the  Cape  Colo- 
nies they  have  the  right  to  vote.  The  Demagogue  is  not  yet  abroad 
among  them ; when  he  starts,  the  most  serious  of  all  their  troubles 
will  begin,  and  the  thoughtful  Colonist  is  anxiously  looking  for  it, 
in  the  not  far  distant  future.  England  and  the  English  seem,  in  this 
arena,  to  learn  nothing  from  experience,  and  her  worse  than  abortive 
efforts  in  this  so-called  Philanthropic  Field  count  nothing.  They 
must  go  on,  and  in  violation  of  Nature’s  Laws,  continue  to  destroy. 

I see  from  a London  Paper,  that  a great  Meeting  was  held  in 
London,  composed  of  England’s  best,  to  honor  Stanley  upon  his 
return  from  Central  Africa.  I have  no  objection  to  paying  honor  to 
whom  honor  is  due;  but  the  World  ought  to  be  too  far  advanced,  in 
this  professedly  developed  age,  to  be  making  much  ado  about  com- 


STEAMSHIP  ATHENIAN— ATLANTIC  OCEAN. 


485 


paratively  nothing.  Hundreds  of  poor  Missionaries  have,  single- 
handed,  done  more  of  the  heroic  than  Stanley,  backed  by  the  hurrahs ! 
and  power  of  a Nation.  He  professes  to  have  opened  a Country  and 
found  a people,  known  better  to  the  Ancients  thousands  of  years  ago 
than  he  has  made  known  to  us,  and  to  have  defied  Races  whom  he 
could  whip  with  a Bamboo  rod,  or  with  Gorgons  and  Chimeras  dire ! 
And  all  for  what  ? To  lift  them  up  and  benefit  them  ? Rather  to 
parcel  out  their  God-given  Lands  among  competing  Nationalities.  I 
know  of  nothing  that  has  taken  place,  coming  from  the  heart  of  our 
boasted  Civilization  and  Progress,  of  more  significance,  or  unsiguifi- 
cance,  whichever  way«you  please  to  put  it. 

And  now,  that  I have  seen  nearly  all  the  World  and  the  peoples 
who  inhabit  it,  if  I was  asked,  what  is  of  most  interest  to  the  thought- 
ful man,  and  the  question,  if  there  be  one,  which  rises  above  every 
other  of  deepest  and  most  vital  import,  I,  in  consideration  of  the  ease 
and  rapidity  of  locomotion,  and  the  wiping  out  of  distance  by  Steam 
and  Electricity,  would  answer,  undoubtedly,  that  of  Race.  Wherever 
I have  been,  it  thrusts  itself  prominently  before  the  Traveller.  This 
you  will  readily  recall ; whether  I moved  among  the  developed  Hin- 
doos and  Chinese  in  their  own  or  Foreign  Countries,  or  among  the  un- 
developed or  half-Civilized  Savage,  everywhere;  whether  I regard  the 
mixture  of  Civilizations  or  the  mixture  of  bloods;  whether  the  inter- 
mingling of  Intellectual  or  of  Physical  organisms.  Economical  inter- 
ests and  numbers,  and  material  forces  are  much  every  way  ; but  these 
oonsiderations  wane  before  the  profounder  question  of  Race.  The 
importance  of  it  is  heightened  by  the  ignorance  which  prevails  among 
those  who  ought  to  know ; and  its  gravity  is  only  now  beginning  to 
dawn,  when  the  crisis  is  at  hand,  and  when  the  evil  through  that 
ignorance  has  been  allowed  to  spi’ead.  In  our  own  Republic  it  rises 
above  every  other  in  far-reaching  and  ominous  bearing ; it  has  crept 
with  more  or  less  import  into  well-nigh  every  Country  over  all 
the  Earth. 


On  Same  Steamer, 

Friday,  July  11,  1890. 

All  day  the  Steamer  has  moved  on  smoothly  at  the  rate  of  rather 
more  than  fourteen  miles  an  hour,  out  of  sight  of  land,  and  with  a 
■cloudless  Sky  above  and  a smooth,  quiet,  deep  Blue  Sea  around. 


486 


LETTER  NO.  19. 


Though  travelling  fast  towards  the  Tropics,  we  have  yet  had  no  sense 
of  heat — the  motion  of  the  Ship  alone  makes  a current,  freighted  with 
tonic  air.  . 

I have  around  me  pleasant  associates  at  the  table — the  Captain  at 
the  head,  and  a Mr.  Pease  and  a Mr.  Fisher,  from  Natal,  and  Mr. 
\¥olfe  and  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Nead  and  two  or  three  young  Ladies  near 
by,  and  the  conversation  does  not  flag  or  flounder — covering  in  its 
topics,  by  reason  of  the  talkers’  residences,  a pretty  much  world-wide 
range. 

And  thus  the  Ship  goes  on,  and  thus  do  we. 

* 

On  Same  Steamer, 

Saturday,  Jidy  12,  1890. 

At  about  eight  o’clock  this  morning  we  glided  over  Capricorn,  and 
entered  the  special  dominion  of  the  Sun.  But  he  is  still  off*  on  his 
Northern  annual  beat,  and  tlie  temperature  indicates  his  absence.  The 
atmosphere  is  cool  and  pleasant,  and  we  have  no  sense  of  heat  upon 
the  Ship.  Things  on  board  go  quietly,  and  give  me  nothing  special 
to  write  about. 

Some  of  the  Papers  you  sent,  which  I was  unable  to  read  on  Shore, 
I brought  aboard.  Among  other  things,  I read  the  synopsis  of  the 
Supreme  Court’s  opinion  upon  our  State  Debt.  Surely,  if  ambitious 
to  have  my  Administration  vindicated,  I have  no  reason  to  complain. 
With  two  exceptions,  it  sustains  all  my  positions,  and  those  by  no 
means  justifying  our  Law-makers  in  the  renunciation  of  the  views 
they  entertained  when  they  sustained  my  vetoes,  or  relieve  them  of 
the  responsibility  of  the  dishonor  and  the  attendant  evils  they  have 
brought  upon  the  State.  They,  under  it,  have  to  pay  the  Debt,  and 
the  sooner  they  go  about  it  the  better  for  us  all.  It  is  a poor  consola- 
tion, that  the  State  sustains  its  Schools  and  educates  the  coming  citi- 
zens by  the  repudiation  of  its  honest  obligations.  Whatever  the  State 
may  say  about  the  Coupons,  the  Debt  itself  was  contracted  before  the 
Schools  were  created,  and  the  very  Constitution  which  called  them 
into  being  recognized  that  Debt  and  provided  for  its  payment.  The 
Court  sti’ained  very  hard  to  reach  any  such  conclusion — a complete 
non  sequitur — and  it  would  have  been  better  for  the  future  of  our 
State  and  people  had  its  position  been  reversed,  and,  at  least,  the 
integrity  of  our  Schools  been  spared.  It  is  bad  that  the  funds  for 


STEAMSHIP  ATHENIAN— ATLANTIC  OCEAN. 


487 


their  support  should  be  filched  by  such  legal  legerdemain  from  our 
honest  creditors.  The  State  might  stand  a temporary  annual  repudia- 
tion of  its  honest  contracts ; the  Schools  cannot  atford  to  perpetuate 
such  dishonor  in  its  everlasting  transmission  through  the  lives  of  its 
future  citizens.  Nor  can  the  Commonwealth  atford  any  more  in  the 
Liquor  Question  to  provide  for  the  morals  and  good  order  of  the 
community  by  in  the  very  act  providing  for  their  violation.  Our 
leaders  ought  to  stop — it  is  high  time  they  should — and  provide  for 
the  honorable  Settlement  of  this  far-reaching  question. 

The  same  Paper  which  contains  these  serious  reflections  on  our 
State’s  integrity,  contains,  also,  an  account  of  the  joyous  Dedication 
of  a noble  Monument  to  one  of  our  noblest  men,  who  was  the  very 
embodiment  of  those  virtues,  and  who  would  rather  have  sutfered 
martyrdom  than  aided  in  the  infliction  of  any  stain  upon  the  Com- 
monwealth for  which  he  surrendered  wealth  and  ambition,  and  for 
whose  glory,  with  such  heroic  and  brilliant  achievements,  he  offered 
his  life,  his  fortune,  and  his  sacred  honor.  0 Temporal  0 Mores! 
Consistency,  what  a Jewel  art  thou  ! 

On  Same  Steamship, 

Sunday,  July  13,  1890. 

All  day  upon  an  unruffled  Sea — extending  to  a smooth  horizon 
on  every  Compass  point — nothing  around  to  rupture  the  unbroken 
range  of  air  and  water.  Either  to  walk  or  sit  on  Deck  was  pleasant ; 
though  no  thing  of  Life  appeared  on  wing  or  wave. 

Yesterday  morning,  about  eight  o’clock,  I think  I told  you,  we 
glided  over  Capricorn.  Therefore,  since  then  and  to-day,  we  have 
been  within  the  Tropics.  Net,  still  no  sense  of  heat.  This,  how- 
ever, at  our  rate  of  speed — three  hundred  and  forty  miles  a day — 
cannot  continue  long ; a few  hours  more  and  we  will  have  it  hot 
enough. 

The  Route  is  nearly  straight  from  Table  Bay  to  Cape  Verde,  across 
the  great  African  Bight.  The  Captain  tells  me  we  come  in  sight  of 
Verde,  a striking  Headland.  I trust  this  may  be  so,  both  in  the 
distance  and  the  time ; for  of  Nature’s  imposing  objects,  few  are 
grander  than  this  manifestation  of  the  conflict  between  her  forces,  in 
motion  and  in  rest.  You  and  I have  witnessed  not  a few  of  them  in 
our  travels  about  the  World. 


488 


LETTER  NO.  19. 


We  had  Sel’vice  in  the  Saloon  this  morning;  a Minister,  Mr.  Lead- 
ing, of  the  Established  Church  of  England  conducting  and  preaching, 
the  Captain  reading  the  Lessons.  The  Preacher,  I am  informed,  is  one 
of  the  Brotherhood  of  the  English  Church,  a man  of  means,  who  has 
left  his  wealth  and  home  and  is  going  about  doing  good.  He  talked, 
not  like  an  intellectual,  but  earnest  man,  and  his  Sermon  was  highly 
creditable — upon  the  individuality  of  Christ,  ever  asserted  by  Him  in 
His  words  and  works,  always  in  gentlest,  though  in  strongest  modes. 

The  Captain  has  a Chameleon  in  his  Room,  which  he  invited  me 
to  see.  It  is  nearly  the  length  of  my  hand,  from  tip  to  tail,  and  in 
shape  not  unlike  a Lizard,  but  of  a more  sluggish  gait  and  mood. 
These  peculiarities  have  given  a Legend  to  the  Kafirs,  and  made  the 
thing  a creature  of  Evil  omen.  When  the  Great  Spirit  first  saw  the 
human  family  emerging  from  the  forest,  he  was  pleased  with  their 
appearance  and  behavior,  and  sent  the  Chameleon  to  inform  them  that 
they  should  live  forever.  In  a little  while,  howevei’,  the  Great  Spirit 
found  he  was  mistaken,  and  those  he  thought  so  good,  went  I’apidly 
to  the  bad,  and  he  forthwith  despatched  a Lizard  to  inform  them  that 
he  had  I’evoked  his  former  decree,  and  that  they  should  surely  die. 
The  Lizard  delivered  the  message  in  his  usual  rapid  style,  and  when 
the  Chameleon  arrived  to  deliver  his,  it  was  too  late — the  Decree  had 
gone  forth  and  could  not  be  revoked.  The  Chameleon,  therefore,  is, 
in  the  Kafir  faith,  no  better  than  the  Serpent  in  the  Christian. 

I have  seen  no  confirmation  in  the  Papers  I have  read  of  the  Con- 
sul’s news  with  regard  to  the  Defeat  of  the  wretched  Blair  Bill : the 
hope  I have,  therefore,  of  its  correctness  is  somewhat  dusky.  After 
the  action  of  those  who  rule  the  destinies  of  our  Country  in  Recon- 
struction, defying  the  teaching  of  the  ages,  and  in  this  j)ast  middle  of 
the  Nineteenth  Century — the  boasted  time  of  Progress — giving  us  a 
Procrustean  Bed ; why  should  they  not,  with  similar  wisdom,  roll  back 
the  Centuries  and  revive  the  days  of  Sparta  ? Why  should  they  not 
adopt  all  the  Children  of  the  Country,  educate  them  in  one  Common 
School,  and,  after  a while,  clothe  them  at  a common  counter,  and  feed 
them  at  a common  crib  ? 

On  Same  Steamship, 

Monday  and,  Tuesday,  July  14  and  15,  1890. 

On  Monday,  olf  to  the  left  of  us,  more  than  three  hundred  miles, 
we  passed  the  Historic  St.  Helena — not  Historic  of  herself,  only  as 


STEAMSHIP  ATHENIAN— ATLANTIC  OCEAN. 


489 


the  cage  where  the  wonderful  creature  was  confined,  to  keep  him  from 
being  again  the  Disturber  of  the  Nations.  I should  have  liked  to 
have  taken  it  in  on  my  Route;  but  the  regular  Vessels  do  not  stop 
there  in  their  run,  only  some  of  what  are  called  the  Intermediate,  and 
to  have  waited  for  one  of  these  would  have  consumed  more  than  a 
month  of  time,  which  I could  not  think  of  now.  Home  has  more 
attractions  than  the  Prison  Honse  and  first  Burial  Place  of  the  famous 
Napoleon,  and  the  thousand  incidents  of  a wonderful  career  I could 
have  evoked  about  his  Grave.  They  tell  me,  too,  there  is  nothing 
there  now,  save  those  memories,  worth  the  time  and  trouble  of  a visit. 
Longwood  is  fast  falling  into  a ruin ; in  a little  while,  I have  no 
doubt,  it  will  be  hard  to  tell  where  the  building  stood  where  his  fierce 
and  not  very  noble  spirit  chafed  itself  away. 

On  Tuesday,  we  passed  the  mouth  of  the  Congo,  more  than  eight 
hundred  miles  to  the  East,  such  a deep  Bight  does  the  Continent  pre- 
sent in  the  Gulf  of  Guinea,  on  the  straight  base  line  of  onr  Vessel’s 
track.  I should  not  have  objected  to  visit  that  and  follow  up  the 
current  of  the  vastest  River  of  the  Continent,  as  I did  the  Amazon  a 
year  or  two  ago,  the  vastest  River  of  the  World.  Now,  the  Congo 
and  its  regions  are  making  a wondrous  stir,  and  are  vexing  the  rapa- 
cious instincts  of  our  restless  Civilization  in  the  inquiry,  of  what  to 
do  with  it? 

We  still  move  onward,  right  ahead,  over  an  unruffled  Sea,  the  uni- 
form and  unbroken  motion  of  the  Propeller  continuing  to  send  us 
over  equal  distances  in  equal  times.  No  Birds  appear,  but  the  water 
sparkles  here  and  there  with  Flying  Fish,  and  its  deep  Blue  tells  us 
of  its  depth.  My  Lady  Friends  invite  me  to  take  the  four  o’clock 
afternoon  tea  with  them,  and  they  know  how  to  brew  it,  and  I allow 
it  to  unloose  my  tongue  and  I talk  on  subjects  and  in  modes  which 
seem  not  to  be  distasteful ; and  I read  and  muse,  and  when  the  night 
time  comes,  I walk  the  Deck,  or  standing  over  the  wheel,  see  it  dash 
the  water  into  Stars. 

The  Hours  do  not  seem  to  lag — they  never  do  to  me  on  Ship-board. 
They,  each  and  every  one,  bring  something  to  amuse  or  edify,  and 
now  that  one-third  or  more  of  the  passage  time  is  gone,  I could  hardly 
answer  whither,  in  its  speed;  I only  know,  they  ai’e  exceeding  slow 
to  the  flight  of  my  home-bound  thoughts,  freighted  with  precious 
memories  for  you  all.  I can  now  look  Westward  across  the  Atlantic, 
with  no  intervening  land  between  us ; I have  not  unfrequently  done 


490 


LETTER  NO.  19. 


the  same  over -world-wide  distances  across  other  Oceans,  to  the  Country 
where  we  have  our  home. 


On  the  Same  Ship, 

Wednesday  and  Thursday,  July  16  and  17,  1890. 

Two  days  more  have  gone,  most  pleasantly,  still  over  an  unruffled 
Sea,  with  equal  distances  in  equal  times. 

Early  on  Thursday  morning  we  drifted  into  a fog,  which  lasted 
several  hours,  showing  we  are  in  Equatorial  Regions ; we  might  have 
had  a Tropic  down-pour — it  would  have  been  equally  normal  for  the 
site.  At  half-past  ten  o’clock  we  crossed  the  Line,  and  once  again, 
after  thousands  of  miles  of  travel  in  Antipodal  Lands,  I am  in  my 
natal  Hemisphere. 

We  have  a harmonious  list  of  Passengers,  each  willing  to  con- 
tribute to  the  pleasure  of  the  other,  and  combining  with  the  joyous 
elements  of  Sea  and  air  to  make  us  a happy  family.  We  have  on 
board  a professional  Ventriloquist  and  fun-maker,  who,  tendering  his 
services,  the  Captain  and  other  Offlcers  uniting,  the  Saloon  was  con- 
verted into  a Hall,  and  on  Monday  Evening,  to  a crowded  audience, 
he  tried  to  contribute  to  our  enjoyment.  If  his  performance  had  not 
been  gratuitous,  and  it  was  not  both  very  bad  taste  and  very  bad 
manners  to  look  a gift  horse  in  the  mouth,  I would  express  my 
opinion  of  him  and  his  success. 

This  Evening,  when  Dining,  we  observed  through  the  Ports  of  the 
Saloon  the  performances  of  a brilliant  Sunset.  I preferred  the  Sun- 
set to  the  Dinner,  and,  going  on  Deck,  was  gratified.  His  Majesty 
was  disporting  himself  with  the  Equatorial  fogs  and  mists  and  con- 
verting them  into  auroral  tints,  not  alone  upon  the  horizon,  but 
throwing  them  athwart  the  Heavens,  making  splendid  a Celestial 
Hemisphere.  There  were  no  clouds,  and  consequently  no  varieties 
of  form  and  color,  only  the  aureate  hue  tempered  by  distance  into 
gentler  shades.  Lingeringly,  it  waited  the  coming  of  the  Stars,  which 
one  by  one  peeped  out,  most  conspicuous  of  them  all  a flaming  Planet 
in  close  conjunction  with  a feeble  twinkler,  seemingly  bound  together 
with  the  “ sweet  influences  of  the  Pleiades,”  and  the  Southern  Cross, 
still  dominating,  but  under  the  motion  of  our  Vessel  Northward,  fast 
sinking  Southward  out  of  view. 


STEAMSHIP  ATHENIAN— ATLANTIC  OCEAN. 


491 


I walked  the  Deck  for  an  hour  or  two,  and  enjoyed  the  scene ; and 
then  the  dancers  came  and  made  a Ball  Room  of  it  to  speed  the  hours ; 
and  I preferring  to  speed  them'  in  another  way,  put  myself  into  the 
lap  of  Somnus,  and  was  hastily  far  more  oblivious  of  their  passage 
than  the  dancers.  The  water  all  day  was  Green,  indicating  that  it 
is  shallow — for  when  profound,  we  are  told  it  is  always  of  deepest 
Bine. 

Whilst  writing  to-day  in  the  Saloon,  I observed  a volume  of  Ten- 
nyson on  the  table  by  my  side.  I took  up  the  Book,  and  opening 
it  at  Locksley  Hall,  read  that  Poem  for  the  hundreth  time  or 
more.  Like  everything  great,  frequent  communion  only  makes  it 
the  greater — fitted  in  its  range  for  the  lowliest  or  the  loftiest — weav- 
ing through  the  story  of  a human  life  the  Music  of  the  Spheres. 

On  the  Same  Steamship, 

Friday  and  8okhrday,  July  18  and  19,  1890. 

Friday  was  a favorable  day  both  for  the  Ship  and  us.  The  tem- 
perature was  everything  we  could  desire ; and  the  Ship,  helped  by  the 
currents,  made  three  hundred  and  seventy-five  miles — the  longest  of 
her  record.  On  our  straight  line  of  travel,  you  observe,  we  are  near- 
ing more  and  more  the  Coast  of  Africa.  At  twelve  o’clock  m.  we 
were  in  Latitude  5°  27'  North,  and  opposite  Liberia.  You  will 
recall  this  Historic  Country.  I remember  well,  when  I was  a boy, 
how  the  American  Colonization  Society,  headed  by  many  of  our  best 
and  ablest,  was  actively  engaged  in  sending  our  Free  Negroes  there, 
hoping  and  believing  that  they  could  found  an  African  Republic. 
The  movement  was  started  in  1816 — before  my  time — and  I think 
with  Henry  Clay,  one  of  its  originators,  as  its  first  President.  In 
1822  it  obtained  possession  of  a tract  of  land  on  the  Coast  of  Upper 
Guinea,  and  named  it  Liberia,  where  they  induced  many  of  our 
Negroes  to  migrate;  among  the  number,  you  remember,  Mr.  David 
W.  Barton’s  John,  a most  highly  respectable  man.  John,  with  more 
than  ordinary  capacity  for  his  Race,  went  with  heart  full  of  hope.  In 
a short  time  he  died — as  many  such  exotics  did  before,  and  have  done 
since. 

In  1847,  the  Province  proclaimed  itself  a Republic,  and  to  the  best 
of  the  information  I can  gather,  from  that  day  to  this,  has  been  going 
from  bad  to  worse,  till  now  it  is  only  the  wretched  exhibition  of 


492 


LETTER  NO.  19. 


blasted  expectations,  and  stablest  pi’oof  of  the  futility  of  the  scheme. 
On  the  contrary,  the  Kroos,  the  Natives  of  the  Country,  without  the 
veneering  of  an  attempted  Civilization,  are  the  best  laborers  along  the 
Coast,  and  are  sought  for  by  the  Vessels  navigating  these  regions — 
but  only  whilst  and  when  managed  and  directed.  Left  to  themselves, 
they  lapse  into  the  worthless  condition  of  the  would-be  architects  of 
the  Liberian  Republic,  or  the  older  so-called  one  of  Hayti,  on  our 
side  of  the  Atlantic. 

The  cool  weather  continued  till  Friday,  when  great  heats  prevailed, 
and  to-day — Saturday — in  the  early  morning,  clouds  gathered  heavily 
and  soon  overcast  the  Heavens,  and  sent  down  what  I have  been 
hourly  looking  for,  an  Equatorial  torrent,  and  continued  thus  to 
behave  off  and  on  till  after  nightfall.  But  it  has  not  brought  cool 
weather,  but  rather  aggravated  the  intensity  of  the  heat. 

I hope  the  rain  may  exhaust  itself  to-night ; for  to-morrow  morn- 
ing we  expect  to  pass  within  easy  sight  of  Cape  Verde,  the  extreme 
Western  projection  of  the  Continent,  I am  told  a fine,  bold  Headland. 
I trust  the  weather  will  prepare  itself  for  the  exhibition.  I have  been 
up  every  morning  several  hours  before  Breakfast,  in  advance  of  most 
of  the  passengers,  and  talk  with  the  Captain  and  other  Officers,  or 
have  a good  time  with  myself. 


Same  Steamship, 

Sunday  and  Monday,  July  20  and  21,  1890. 

By  five  o’clock  this — Sunday — morning  I was  on  the  outlook  for 
Cape  Verde.  It  was  not  then  in  sight,  but  in  an  hour  or  so  it  limned 
the  Horizon.  The  morning  was  very  warm,  but  the  Sun  was  hid 
behind  lofty  clouds,  and  the  Vessel’s  motion  sent  a breeze  across  the 
Deck  and  made  it  comfortable.  The  Cape  is  three  thousand  six  hun- 
dred and  one  miles  from  Table  Bay. 

Approaching  nearer,  we  could  not  have  had  a finer  view.  The 
Continent  extended  itself  just  as  it  appears  upon  the  Map,  in  a long 
projection  into  the  Sea,  all  seeming  but  little  above  the  surface  of  the 
water,  save  at  the  extremity,  where  it  lifts  itself  into  two  quite  ele- 
vated Buttes,  one  of  which  is  crowned  by  a commanding  and  con- 
spicuous Light  House.  On  all  sides.  Landward,  the  Country  sinks 
into  a plain — low-lying  and  covered  with  apjiarently  large  trees — 
among  them,  we  are  told,  the  Baobab,  of  enormous  spread. 


STEAMSHIP  ATHENIAN— ATLANTIC  OCEAN. 


493 


The  Region  is  called  Senegambia,  your  Map  will  show,  and  frona 
the  River  Senegal  to  the  River  Gambia,  taking  in  the  Cape,  is  a Col- 
ony of  France.  On  the  Peninsula  of  Cape  Verde  is  the  town  of 
Dakar,  inhabited  by  two  or  three  hundi’ed  Whites  and  a thousand  or 
more  Negroes,  and  considered  by  the  French  one  of  the  most  flourish- 
ing of  their  Colonies.  Within  a mile  of  the  town  is  the  Island  of 
Goree,  with  more  than  three  thousand  inhabitants.  The  Dakar 
Negroes  are  not  a particularly  interesting  Race,  we  are  told,  full  of 
superstition,  dancing,  nudity,  idleness,  and  dirt.  We  could  not  see 
them  from  the  Ship ; we  coidd  only  see  the  fine  Headland  their 
Country  made,  projecting  into  the  Ocean,  forming  the  extreme  West- 
ward reach  of  the  Continent. 

Our  approach  was  marked  with  interesting  incidents.  We  passed 
the  Cape  about  eight  o’clock.  An  hour  or  two  before,  a School  of 
Dolphins  filled  the  water,  apparently  thousands  of  them,  more  than  I 
ever  saw  at  any  one  time  before,  and  in  their  somersaults  and  leaps  were 
joyously  welcoming  the  fine  morning.  The  water  was  warm — at  84° 
the  Chief  Engineer  informed  me — and,  maybe,  suited  the  constitutions 
of  the  playsome  creatures ; then  came  the  Nautili — Portuguese  meu- 
of-war,  you  know,  in  derision  called — and  spread  their  tiny  sails,  in 
numbers  surpassing  any  of  their  exhibitions  I have  seen  since,  you 
remember,  our  voyage  from  Yokohama  to  San  Francisco;  then  the 
Sharks  appeared,  their  dorsal  fin  and  tail  showing  like  two  black 
knives  above  the  monsters’  motion.  It  was  a fine  Summer  day  for 
the  Ocean,  and  its  inmates,  wherein  to  have  an  outing. 

The  Captain  told  me  he  had  purposely  deflected  his  course  East- 
Avards,  that  we  might  have  a good  view  of  the  Cape.  This  was  very 
considerate  and  kind. 

Slightly  Northwest,  and  about  three  hundred  and  fifty  miles  away, 
are  the  Cape  Verde  Islands,  so  called  from  the  Sargosso,  which,  you 
know,  grows  upon  the  Sea  and  of  which  I told  you  on  my  Tour  to 
South  America.  The  chief  among  them  are  Santiago,  the  most  fertile 
of  the  Group,  which  rises  more  than  seven  thousand  feet  above  the 
Sea,  and  St.  Vincent,  the  intermediate  station  of  the  Cable  Line  from 
England  to  Brazil,  and  the  Coaling  Port  of  the  Anglo-Brazilian 
Steamers.  • * 

On  the  Continent,  to  the  East  of  Senegambia,  the  Soudan  stretches 
like  a belt — Western,  Central,  and  Egyptian — bounding  the  whole 
South  of  the  Great  Sahara — in  its  entirety,  comparatively  unexplored. 


494 


LETTER  NO.  19. 


but,  notwithfetanding,  famous,  because  couuected  in  its  Eastern  sec- 
tion with  Goi’don’s  fateful  story. 

At  half-past  ten,  we  had  Eeligious  Services  in  the  Saloon,  the  Cap- 
tain and  the  Brother  of  last  Sunday  leading — very  creditably. 

We  met  to-day  a small  Sailing  Vessel  and  a Steamer — the  only 
Ships  we  have  seen  on  the  long  voyage.  This  afternoon  was  hot ; 
yet,  on  Deck,  we  gathered  the  breezes  and  managed  to  while  the  hours 
in  chatting,  lounging,  thinking,  napping. 

Saturday  opened  with  a totally  different  day.  The  Thermometer 
fell  many  degrees,  and  from  daylight  till  dark,  both  head-winds  and 
currents  met  us,  and  the  Steamer  pitched  and  struggled  against  them 
manfully.  This  has  delayed  us  and  reduced  our  speed  many  knots. 
I now  fear  that  to-moi’row  we  will  not  reach  Teneriffe,  eight  hundred 
and  nineteen  miles  from  Cape  Verde,  till  after  nightfall ; and  will, 
therefore,  lose  the  view  of  the  famous  Mountain.  We  do  not  stop  at 
the  Canaries,  of  which  Teneriffe  is  one,  but  pass  near  enough  when 
in  daylight  to  see  it  finely.  We  will,  however,  continue  to  hope 
for  a change  of  weather  in  time  to  bring  a better  fortune  than  now 
impends. 

Same  Steamship, 

Tuesday  and  Wednesday,  Jidy  22  and  23,  1890. 

About  twelve  o’clock  last  night — Monday — we  crossed  the  Cancer, 
and  as  I a day  or  two  ago  passed  into  my  natal  Hemisphere,  so,  now,  I 
am  in  my  natal  Zone — nearer  and  nearer  Home  ! 

Monday  night  aud  Tuesday  we  were  in  the  embraces  of  the  wind 
and  waves,  and  carried  up  and  down  with  their  caprices — nearly  half 
the  time  the  propeller  whirling  in  the  air,  it  seemed  to  me,  thns  losing 
us  speed  and  making  people  in  general  sick  and  sorry.  Waking  or 
sleeping,  I feel  no  difference,  but  taking  things  when  and  how  they 
come,  am  therewith  content.  Crossing  the  Line,  we  met  with  the 
Northeast  tides  of  air  and  wave,  hurrying  to  make  themselves  the 
Trades  and  Equatorial  Current,  and  thus,  in  breasting  them,  have 
been  handled  roughly.  Our  distance  travelled  was  reduced  to  two 
hundred  and  eighty  miles  per  diem,  vacating  all  hope  of  seeing  Ten- 
erifPe  oif  our  passage. 

The  Sky,  too,  was  not  clear ; and  on  the  evening  of  Tuesday,  mists 
hung  around  the  horizon  and  obscured  the  view.  The  Captain  advised 
me  to  remain  up,  he  could  not  certainly  till  whether,  under  the  light 


STEAMSHIP  ATHENIAN— CANARY  AND  MADEIRA.  495 


of  a new  Moon,  I might  not  be  able  to  see  the  noble  Mountain,  with 
its  cone  of  more  than  twelve  thousand  feet  in  height;  we  would  hail 
it,  if  weather  allowed,  at  ten  or  eleven  o’clock.  I did  so  ; but  disap- 
pointment attended.  The  Moon  sank  behind  a bank  of  mist  upon  the 
West,  the  Island  was  equally  hid  upon  the  East,  and  we  steamed  on, 
leaving  Teneriffe  and  its  Mountain  behind,  sulking  like  Achilles  in 
his  tent. 

The  Canary  Islands,  of  which  Teneriffe  is  one,  are  owned  by  Spain. 
They  were  known  to  the  Ancients,  who  reached  them  through  the 
Pillars  of  Hercules,  under  the  mellifluous  appellations  of  the  Fortu- 
nate Islands,  or  the  Islands  of  the  Blest.  The  Group  lies,  you  observe, 
near  Africa ; but  they  do  not  belong  to  the  Continent,  Geologically, 
any  more  than  Madagascar  on  the  East,  concerning  which  I had  some- 
thing to  say  when  there.  These,  and  those  of  the  De  Verde,  the 
Madeira,  and  the  Azores,  have  been  projected  from  the  Ocean  by 
Volcanic  forces,  and  are  their  own  independent  representatives.  It 
has  been  conjectured  that  they  are  fragments  of  the  Continent  of 
Atlantis,  which  poetic  minds  have  conceived  once  occupied  the  Sea 
between  Europe  and  North  America,  in  the  same  way  that  Mada- 
gascar is  a fragment  of  Lemuria,  once  standing  in  the  Indian  Ocean, 
and  of  which  I have  already  spoken  in  an  earlier  Letter. 

The  Verde,  the  Azores,  and  the  Madeira  Groups  belong  to  Portu- 
gal ; the  last  the  only  place  of  call  for  this  Line  of  Steamers  between 
Cape  Town  and  Southampton. 

Wednesday,  the  weather  greatly  improved,  and  the  Sky  cleared 
itself  entii’ely  of  clouds,  but  the  winds  and  seas  fought  us  still.  A 
little  after  mid-day  we  came  in  view  of  Madeira,  appi’oachiug  it  from 
the  South.  It  stretched  in  a long  mountain  bulk,  of  irregular  outline 
in  the  centre,  and  falling  gradually  to  the  water  at  either  end.  Whilst 
we  steamed  in,  the  Sun  went  down  and  the  young  Moon  and  many 
Stars  came  out.  Protected  by  the  Island  from  the  wind,  it  fell  into 
a calm,  and  happily  the  Sea  settled  into  a surface  smooth  as  glass. 
At  eight  o’clock  we  anchored  within  half  a mile  of  Funchal,  the 
Capital  of  the  Island — two  hundred  and  thirty-five  miles  from  Ten- 
eriffe— its  lights  sparkling  along  the  Shore  and  iqj  the  Mountain. 
Immediately,  the  boats  came  rushing  out,  filled  with  the  people  and 
their  curios,  and  surrounding  our  Ship,  began  climbing  up  its  sides 
and  covering  the  Deck.  This  is  allowed  in  the  day  time ; but  after 


496 


LETTER  NO.  19. 


night,  the  Captain,  fearing  their  thievish  propensities,  ordered  them 
to  be  driven  off — which  order  they  reluctantly  obeyed. 

Mr.  Wolfe,  Mr.  Bliimlein,  a young  German,  and  I hired  a boat 
and  went  ashore.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Nead  did  not  want  to  go  after 
nig-bt  and  in  the  crowd.  Our  venture  was  not  without  its  dangers. 
No  sooner  bad  we  taken  our  seats  than  a crowd  of  Second  Class  and 
steerage  passengers  leaped  into  the  boat  from  the  stairway,  and  were 
near  swamping  it ; bad  the  Sea  been  rough,  we  would  have  filled  at  once, 
and  this  Letter  would  have  ended,  for  there  was  no  chance  to  return, 
the  Boatmen  pushing  off  forthwith.  The  weight  sank  the  boat  nearly 
to  the  water’s  edge,  but  the  passengers,  under  my  order  and  insistence, 
keeping  quietly  their  seats,  and  the  smoothness  of  the  water  relieving 
us  of  apprehension,  we  safely  came  to  shore.  Here  there  was  no 
landing,  and  the  Boatmen  jumped  into  the  water  and  pulled  with  the 
swell,  which,  though  there  were  no  waves,  came  in  with  long  and 
loud  surf  along  the  pebbly  shore.  Seizing  my  opportunity,  when  the 
swell  receded,  I managed  to  land  dry  shod. 

We  then  walked  under  a dark  and  unsavory  archway  into  the 
City,  and  were  soon  in  the  midst  of  its  narrow  streets.  We  strolled 
to  the  centre  of  the  town,  and  saw  the  Public  Gardens  and  the 
Cathedral,  and  the  Government  House  and  Bank,  and  the  Town 
Hall  and  other  buildings  of  any  import,  and  noted  how  the  streets 
were  well  paved  with  pebbles,  worn  glassy  smooth  by  time  and  use. 
We  came  across  a carriage  upon  sleds  with  four  seats,  drawn  by  two 
fine  oxen,  fat  and  sleek.  We  stopped  the  affair,  and  taking  posses- 
sion, ordered  the  Coachman,  who  walked,  to  drive  us  to  the  Market. 
The  Oxen  moved  easily  with  our  weight,  the  sled  gliding  over  the 
smooth  pebbles,  with  scarce  any  more  friction  thau  on  ice.  This  is 
the  chief  mode  of  locomotion  in  Funchal;  they  have  ponies  and  chairs, 
but  they  have  not  the  popularity  of  the  sled. 

In  the  Market  there  was  an  abundant  display  of  fruits — Straw- 
berries, Apricots,  Peaches,  Figs,  Passion  Fruit,  Grapes,  and  other 
Tropic  and  Semi-Tropic  growths ; and  we  bought  several  baskets  full 
of  them  for  the  Ladies  on  the  Ship.  And  then  we  visited  the  Shops, 
where  they  have  Wicker-chairs,  and  Baskets,  and  Tables,  and  Work- 
boxes  of  every  style  and  size,  and  Silver  of  quite  excellent  workman- 
ship and  pattern,  and  I bought  a Napkin  King  for  the  Set  and  a 
Bracelet  for  Mary  and  one  as  a present  for  Mrs.  Nead,  that  I thought 
would  please  them  both. 


STEAMSHIP  ATHENIAN— MADEIRA  ISLANDS. 


497 


Whenever  we  appeared  upon  the  streets,  throngs  of  Beggars  fol- 
lowed us  in  number  and  importunity  almost  equal  to  those  of  Malta, 
and  when  we  came  away,  escorted  us  to  the  boat — not  in  honor  to  the 
stranger,  rather  in  expectation  of  benefits  to  be  by  them  conferred. 

We  took  care  in  returning  to  have  the  boat  entirely  to  ourselves, 
which  we  did,  safely  and  pleasantly.  Beceding  from  the  Island,  our 
Steamer,  with  her  Electric  Lights  shining  from  her  Masts  and  through 
her  Ports,  in  brilliant  array.  Looking  backward,  the  great  Rock, 
a conspicuous  object  near  Funchal,  rose  dark  from  out  the  waters; 
behind,  the  Mountain  Island  spreads  itself,  a broad  background,  the 
City  with  its  thousand  lights  along  its  base.  About  midnight  we 
were  under  steam  again,  this  time  for  Southampton,  thirteen  hundred 
and  thirty-two  miles  away. 

Madeira  belongs,  I have  hitherto  remarked,  to  Portugal.  It  is 
thirty-one  miles  long  by  twelve  miles  broad.  The  Group  was  dis- 
covered by  the  Spaniards  in  1417,  and  afterwards  in  1419  re-discovered 
by  the  Portuguese  and  hence  claimed.  It  consists  of  the  Island  ol 
Madeira,  with  a population  of  one  hundred  and  twenty  thousand,  and 
the  smaller  Island  of  Porto  Santo,  and  three  rocky  “ Desertas,”  unin- 
habited and  void  of  vegetation.  Funchal  has  thirty  thousand  people. 
Wine  was  for  many  years  the  famous  product  of  the  Island,  and 
hence  derived  its  Brand;  iu  1852,  disease  attacked  the  Vineyards  and 
destroyed  them  ; of  late  years  they  have  been  replanted,  and  I am 
told  the  Vines  have  been  restoi’ed  and  the  Wines  therefrom  have 
recovered  their  reputation. 

Coming  on  from  Cape  Verde,  we  pass  Cape  Blanco.  On  our  right, 
but  out  of  view,  Sahara  sweeps  across  the  Continent  and  Morocco, 
Northward,  beyond  the  Madeira  Islands,  till  it  makes  one  of  the 
Portals  of  Gibraltar.  OIF  to  the  Northwest  lie  the  Azores,  six  hun- 
dred miles  away.  But  we  turn  Northeastward  and  seek  Southampton 
across  the  Bay  of  Biscay  and  the  Channel.  I should  not  be  surprised 
if  rough  seas  met  us  on  the  way. 

On  Same  Steamer, 

Thursday,  Friday,  and  Saturday,  July  24,  25,  and  26,  1890. 

For  these  three  days  the  weather  and  the  Sea  have  been  anything 
but  smooth ; the  Sky  has  been  overcast,  the  water  dull,  with  no  Sun 
to  respond  to.  Whales  have  now  and  then  appeared,  throwing  their 
32 


498 


LETTER  NO.  19. 


fountains  in.  the  air;  a few  Birds  followed  our  Ship  for  a while  and 
then  disappeared,  and  three  or  four  Steamers,  going  out  over  the  Voy- 
age we  have  just  made. 

Nothing  has  occurred  to  break  the  monotony  of  the  Ship — the  same 
routine  every  day — morning,  noon,  and  night.  By  this  time  I know 
and  chat  with  nearly  everybody  on  board,  and  in  the  afternoon  take 
tea  with  some  of  my  Lady  Friends,  and  talk  Literature,  or  any  other 
subject  they  please  to  suggest,  and  the  hours,  in  some  way  or  the 
other,  are  occupied,  and  do  not  lag. 

At  Madeira  we  got  some  London  Papers.  I observe  in  one  of 
them  an  Advertisement  of  Brown,  Shipley  & Co.,  Bankers,  to  the 
Virginia  Bondholders  to  bring  in  their  securities  to  audit  with  them, 
under  some  agreement  of  the  12th  of  May  last.  I can  learn  nothing 
further  from  this  Advertisement.  What  does  it  mean  ? Have  the 
Leaders,  so-called,  at  last  seen  the  handwriting  on  the  wall,  and  begun 
to  see  and  feel  the  inevitable?  When  I reach  London,  I will  try  to 
learn  something  further  from  Mr.  Bouverie,  Chairman  of  the  Council 
of  Foi’eign  Bondholders,  or  from  my  Bankers.  The  loss  of  the  Papers 
you  sent  has  entailed  this  ignorance. 

On  Same  Steamer, 

Sunday,  July  27,  1890. 

Services  again  and  Sermon  to-day.  Weather  and  waves  settled 
down  and  the  Ship  moving  again  more  than  three  hundred  and 
twenty  miles.  This  makes  the  heart  of  the  passengers  lighter.  We 
hope  to  reach  our  Haven — Southampton — early  to-morrow  morning. 
I will,  therefore,  now  finish  this  Letter  and  mail  it  on  my  arrival 
there,  or  with  the  proper  Officer  on  board  this  Ship. 

I will  go  to  London  and  get  your  Letters,  and  if  all  things  are 
right  at  home,  may  run  over  to  Germany  and  witness  the  famous 
Passion  Play  at  Ober-Ammergau,  near  Munich.  This  will  take  a 
week  or  ten  days.  I shall  then,  at  once,  return  to  Southampton  and 
take  the  first  North  German  Lloyd  Steamer  to  New  York.  Should 
the  Letters  from  you  indicate  otherwise,  I will  forthwith  return  by 
first  Steamer  and  give  up  the  Passion  Play.  It  only  takes  place 
every  ten  years,  the  last  was  in  1880.  I have,  therefore,  an  oppor- 
tunity of  witnessing  a curious  Performance,  which  I ought  not  to  fail 
to  see ; though  it  is  hard  to  persuade  myself  to  take  the  time  away 


STEAMSHIP  ATHENIAN— SOVTHAMPTON,  ENGLAND.  499 


from  my  desire  to  get  back  home  once  more.  But  you  need  not  be 
anxious  about  me ; I am  in  perfect  health,  and  the  week  or  ten  days 
will  speedily  pass. 

My  next  Letter  will  be  my  last,  and  will  be  in  due  course  addressed 
to  Charles.  It  will  be  finished  in  New  York  and  mailed  there.  I 
hope  he  is  with  you,  and  you  can  read  this  and  that  together.  I will, 
on  my  arrival  in  New  York,  Telegraph  as  usual,  and  will  stop  over 
in  Charlestown  a day,  when  I hope  you  can  run  down  and  meet  me. 

After  receipt  of  this,  write,  on  your  usual  days,  to  me,  care  Bi’own 
Brothers  & Co.,  Bankers,  59  Wall  Street,  New  York  City.  All  the 
Letters  that  reach  Cape  Town,  I have  ordered  to  be  sent  to  Brown, 
Shipley  & Co.,  London.  I will  leave  orders  with  them  to  forward 
to  the  United  States. 

At  six  o’clock  we  passed  an  Island  olF  the  Northwest  Coast  of 
France,  on  which  a splendid  Light  House  stands.  Our  Ship  signalled 
to  the  outlook  there,  and  speedily  it  was  heralded  by  wire  to  England, 
and  our  coming  known.  We  hope  to-morrow  early  to  verify  the 
proclamation. 

Love  to  Cousin  Mary,  and  kind  wishes  to  our  neighbors  and  in- 
quiring friends. 

With  tenderest  love  for  all, 

F. 


[No.  20.] 


London,  England,  Charing  Cross  Hotel, 

Monday,  July  28,  1890. 


My  Dear  Charles, — 


This  will  be  the  last  Letter  of  the  Tour,  and,  therefore,  properly 
belongs  to  you. 

On  the  Steamer  Athenian,  I finished  No.  19  to  Taylor  and  mailed 
it  at  the  Southwestern  Hotel  on  my  arrival  in  Southampton  this 
morning. 

Very  early  I was  on  Deck,  anticipating  the  approach  to  that  City. 
The  day  was  fine,  and  it  was  light  by  four  o’clock,  from  which  hour 


500 


LETTER  NO.  20. 


' I was  on  the  outlook.  Ships  thickened  on  every  hanck  coming  in 
to  feed  the  great  population  of  England,  especially  her  wonderful 
Metropolis.  We  soon,  after  that  hour,  sighted  land,  which  continu- 
ally came  nearer  whilst  we  advanced.  In  an  hour  or  two  all  the 
passengex’s  wei’e  out,  glad  to  greet  any  land  after  such  a long  voyage^ 

The  nearer  we  approached,  the  more  beautiful  the  view.  On  the 
high  shores,  residences  came  in  sight — now  and  then  an  old  Fort  or 
Castle,  suiTounded  by  or  embowei’ed  in  trees,  the  vegetation  making 
the  Landscape  glow  in  the  fi’esh  moi’ning. 

Nearing  the  Isle  of  Wight,  the  Pilot  came  and  took  charge  of  the 
Ship,  and  guided  us  up  the  Solent ; on  one  side,  the  Needles — three 
sharp  Chalk  Rocks — stood  out  of  the  watei’,  a Light  House  at  the 
base  of  the  most  Western,  whence  the  site  derives  its  name;  near  by 
them  the  wreck  of  a large  Vessel  lay.  The  Island  sti’etched  East- 
ward beyond,  crowned  with  fortifications  and  villas,  and  Cowes,  over 
which,  farther  inward,  were  seen  the  towers  of  Osborne  rising  above 
the  forest.  Rounding  a heavy  circular  fortification  on  England’s  side,, 
we  entered  Southampton  water  in  front,  the  City  itself  closing  the 
view  ; to  the  I’ight,  Netley  Militaiy  Hospital,  a most  imposing  pile, 
and  the  ruins  of  Netley  Abbey  peeping  from  the  trees;  to  the  left,  the 
New  Forest,  of  immense  extent,  the  ancient  Royal  Hunting  Demesne, 
where,  you  remember,  William  Rufus  ixiet  his  fate,  and  a conspicuous 
tower  among  the  trees,  called  Hurst’s  Castle  or  the  Eagle’s  Nest, 
belonging  to  Loi’d  Montagu,  built,  it  is  said,  sacrilegiously,  from  the 
ruins  of  Bewley  Abbey,  which  is  furtlier  inland. 

A number  of  Vessels  were  anchoi’ed  in  the  Harboi’,  among  them  a 
Monitor,  showing  its  back  like  a huge  turtle,  and  a United  States 
Training  Ship,  whose  name  I did  not  learn,  from  which  the  Stars 
and  Stripes  quite  gaily  floated. 

We  landed  at  the  Wharf,  and  my  baggage  was  passed  without 
annoyance,  and  I bade  Good  Bye  ! to  the  Captain,  who  had  been  so 
courteous,  and  to  the  many  passengers  I knew.  Mr.  and  Mi’s.  Nead 
and  I here  pai’ted,  after  our  long  travel  together.  They  will  stop 
some  days  in  London,  and  then  proceed  on  the  Russian  and  Cauca- 
sian Tour  I marked  out  for  them.  I took  a Carriage  and  drove  to 
the  Southwestern  Hotel,  wdiere  I put  out  some  clothing  to  be  washed, 
mailed  the  Letter  of  which  I have  spoken,  went  out  and  nxade  inquiiy 
about  my  Steamer  homewai’ds,  on  which  I detei’mined  not  to  take 
passage  till  my  ai’rival  in  London,  and  leaving  my  Trunk  and  Deck 


SOUTHAMPTON  TO  LONDON. 


501 


Ohair,  after  Lunch,  with  my  Satchel  only,  took  train  at  three  o’clock, 
by  the  Express,  for  this  City.  The  distance  is  seventy-nine  miles, 
and  we  made  it  in  one  hour  and  a half,  with  only  one  stoppage. 

I wish  you  could  have  been  with  me  on  the  ride — how  dilferent 
from  the  New  Countries  of  which  I have  been  writing  you  on  this 
world-round  Tour ! From  Southampton  to  London  is  one  long 
stretch  of  greenery,  with  villages,  and  villas,  and  residences,  ancient 
and  modern,  flashing  in  one  continuous  line  before  the  vision  in  our 
rapid  transit;  cultivated  fields,  and  fields  in  grass,  on  which  Sheep 
were  hurdled — almost  invariably  Southdown,  I observed.  Some  of 
the  Wheat  was  gathered  and  secured  carefully  in  stacks,  such  as  I 
described  to  you  on  my  Second  Tour,  in  various  parts  of  England ; 
but  most  of  the  grain — Wheat  and  Oats — was  standing,  not  yet  ready 
for  the  Harvest.  It  was  good,  bad,  and  inditferent,  much  of  it  injured 
by  the  wet  season,  much  of  it  down  or  tangled,  and  evidently  in  great 
danger,  without  most  favorable  weather.  The  Farmers  of  this  Country 
cannot  now  rely  upon  an  almost  never-failing  crop  like  they  did,  I 
used  to  hear,  in  the  olden  time.  On  every  hand  were  the  trees,  the 
great  ornament  of  the  Landscape,  and  England’s  chiefest  glory. 

We  whirled  by  Aldershot,  one  of  the  large  Military  Camps,  and 
saw  the  numerous  tents,  and  the  soldiers  marching  to  and  fro,  and 
heard  the  martial  music,  and  passed  old  Winchester,  where  you  went 
with  me,  on  my  former  Tour,  to  see  especially  its  Cathedral  and  its 
School,  and  numerous  ancient  cottages,  grouped  or  single,  covered 
still  with  thatch  and  garlanded  with  vines  and  flowers,  where  many 
a sturdy  life  has  been  begun  and  ended — more,  I doubt  not,  in  former 
times  than  now  : for  England,  like  ourselves,  and  indeed  most  other 
Countries,  under  the  centralizing  influences  of  rapid  locomotion,  is 
fast  lapsing  from  the  Country  to  the  Town,  and  her  yeomen  becom- 
ing shop-keepers.  How  will  this  tell,  when  the  crisis  arises,  for  the 
stability  of  her  Empire  on  Land  and  Sea  ? 

From  this  scene  of  vegetation  and  quiet  Country  life,  we  hurried 
through  the  crowded,  smoky  suburbs  of  the  vast  Metropolis,  and  were 
speedily  put  down  at  Waterloo  Station,  where  I took  a Hansom  and 
drove  through  familiar  scenes  to  this  Hotel — from  which  you  and  I 
walked  so  often,  seven  years  ago,  to  visit  things  then  new  to  me. 

I took  a Room  and  wandered  out  over  Trafalgar  Square,  near  by, 
where  I found  a Bronze  Figure  of  Gordon  added  to  the  other  heroes 
since  I was  there.  Not  far  off,  I found  three  new  Hotels — the  Vic- 


502 


LETTER  NO.  20. 


toria,  the  Metropole,  and  the  Grand,  immense  and  elegant  afifairs — 
had  gone  up  since  I was  here  before ; and,  I am  informed,  are  always 
full,  such  a crowd  of  strangers  are  ever  coming  to  see  great  London’s 
sights,  and  the  cry  is  still  for  more ; and  then  I strolled  along  Strand 
and  Fleet,  and  found  them,  as  I left  them  years  ago,  like  the  River’s 
current,  ever  changing,  yet  unchanged. 


[When  Captain  Bainbridge  and  I parted,  I told  him  I would  write 
to  him  on  my  arrival  at  home,  which  I did,  and  received  the  follow- 
ing reply,  which,  for  its  interest  in  connection  with  the  Tour,  I here 
insert.  Some  of  the  allusions  will  be  better  understood  in  the  pro- 
gress of  the  Letter. 


“R.  M.  S.  Athenian,  Cape  Town, 

23  October,  1892. 


My  Dear  Governor  Holliday, — 


I would  feel  ashamed  to  reply  to  your  kind  Letter  of  3d  Septem- 
ber, 1890,  after  my  long  silence,  did  not  my  possession  of  that  missive 
show  the  value  I placed  in  your  kind  words,  and,  also,  my  determi- 
nation to  reply  to  it  when  I had  the  opportunity  to  do  so. 

During  the  interval  that  has  elapsed,  so  much  seems  to  have  hap- 
pened, that  I feel  at  a loss  where  to  commence  my  narrative,  so  I will 
begin  by  saying  that  I have  been  following  my  vocation  in  command 
of  the  “■  Athenian,”  ever  since  we  sailed  together,  and  my  time  has 
been  passed  principally  at  Sea,  having  diversities  of  weather,  some- 
times fair  and  sometimes  foul,  but  with  good  health  and  a good  heart, 
enabling  me  to  take  the  rough  with  the  smooth  with  an  even  mind, 
having  many  blessings  to  be  thankful  for,  and  a great  deal  of  happi- 
ness during  the  time  that  my  glimpses  of  home  and  my  Dear  Wife 
cheer  me  on  my  way  and  strengthen  me  to  bear  “ the  slings  and 
arrows  of  outrageous  fortune.” 

My  home  has  been  made  doubly  dear  to  me  by  the  advent,  after 
eight  years  of  married  life,  of  a little  boy,  who  is  now  ten  months 
old,  and  a great  treasure,  and  who  keeps  his  Mother  well  employed 
during  my  long  absences. 

As  I completed  my  fifty  years  yesterday,  it  is  beginning  rather  late 
in  life,  and  I am  not  likely  to  see  him  grow  up  to  manhood. 


LONDON— LETTER  FROM  CAPTAIN  BAINBRIDGE.  503 


Other  changes  we  have  seen  in  English  Politics : where  Salisbury 
has  vacated  the  Premiership  in  favor  of  the  Grand  Old  Man,  whose 
magnanimity  has  been  shown  by  his  having  caused  to  be  shot  the 
sportive  heifer  which,  in  his  own  Park,  bowled  him  over,  and  who 
recently  would  not  accompany  the  remains  of  his  whilom  Friend, 
Tennyson,  to  his  last  resting  place  in  Westminster  Abbey,  because 
Tennyson  said  not  long  ago,  in  regard  to  Gladstone’s  Home  Rule 
Bill,  “ I love  and  revere  Mr.  Gladstone,  but  hate  and  detest  his 
Policy.” 

It  is  pitiable  when  great  minds  stoop  to  the  littlenesses  of  the 
mediocre — vide,  Bismarck,  Carlyle,  Gladstone. 

Your  Letter  told  me  of  your  safe  arrival  at  home,  and  no  doubt 
you  were  very  glad  to  return  there  after  your  long  travel  round  the 
Globe,  and  were  quite  satisfied  with  what  you  had  seen,  notwithstand- 
ing you  were  not  able  to  get  to  the  Passion  Play  at  Ober-Ammergau. 
I heard  the  place  was  very  crowded,  so  it  was  well  you  failed  to  get 
there. 

I saw  you  in  the  crowd  when  the  Duke  of  Edinburgh  laid  the 
foundation  stone  of  the  Seamen’s  Church.  I had  a good  seat  inside 
and  tried  to  get  at  you  to  bring  you  in,  but  could  not  do  so  before 
you  got  tired  and  had  driven  olF.  The  Church  has  long  since  been 
completed,  and  free  of  debt,  and  opened,  and  is  most  useful  to  the 
Mission  and  to  the  Seamen  who  run  it. 

I am  glad  you  liked  Netley ; the  ruins  are  not  over-extensive,  but 
the  surroundings  are  very  beautiful  and  peaceful.  I and  my  Wife 
and  Mother  and  Sister  often  drive  out  to  Yetley  on  a Summer  after- 
noon and  spend  hours  there,  until  the  heat  of  the  day  has  passed,  and 
the  drive  home  along  the  water  in  the  cool  of  the  evening  is  the  very 
pleasant  ending  of  a lovely  day. 

I saw  Tintern  Abbey  during  last  Summer.  It  is  on  the  banks  of 
the  Wye,  near  Monmouth,  and  is  most  charmingly  situated;  but, 
somehow,  I like  Netley  much  better. 

We  have  been  troubled  all  the  World  over  with  the  Cholera  scare, 
and  I am  surprised  at  the  way  people  distress  themselves  on  the  sub- 
ject. I suppose  I have  seen  so  much  of  it  in  the  East,  that  I feel 
used  to  its  presence.  I sincerely  hope  that  no  new  complications  will 
come  from  the  disease  next  year,  as  it  will  be  a great  pity  that  any- 
thing should  come  to  mar  the  wonderful  World’s  Fair  at  Chicago. 


604 


LETTER  NO.  20. 


I should  greatly  like  to  be  there ; but  I know  the  pleasure  is  unat- 
tainable by  me,  and  so  must  be  content. 

They  are  running  a very  mild  atfair  here,  as  the  Kimberley  Expo- 
sition ; to  that  I would  not  go  if  I could. 

Now,  my  Dear  Governor,  I must  close  this  mail,  hoping  it  will 
find  you  well  and  hearty,  and  should  you  at  any  time  have  a moment 
to  spare  and  inclination  to  send  me  a line,  be  sure  it  will  be  received 
with  much  pleasure.  With  all  good  wishes, 

Yours  very  faithfully, 

William  Bainbeidge, 
Commanding  R.  M.  8.  “Athenian.” 

Address:  Captain  Bainbridge,  Winterbourne,  London  Road,  South- 
ampton, England.”] 


Same  City  and  Hotel, 

Tuesday,  July  29,  1890. 

First  thing  this  Morning,  I went  to  my  Bankers,  Brown,  Shipley 
and  Company,  to  get  my  Mail.  Good  fortune  attended  me  and  I 
received  a considerable  number,  both  of  Letters  and  Papers.  I will 
recite  them  : one  from  you  of  July  1 ; one  from  Mary,  July  13;  from 
Margaret,  June  15,  June  21,  June  29,  July  5,  July  12;  from  Tay- 
lor, March  20 — forwarded  to  me  from  Melbourne  by  my  Bankers 
there — June  19,  June  27,  July  3,  July  11,  July  17 ; the  Papers  I 
will  take  aboard  and  read  on  the  passage. 

On  my  walk  to  the  Bank,  I stopped  at  Thomas  Cook  & Sons  and 
inquired  about  my  trip  to  Ober-Ammergau.  They  told  me  things 
were  so  crowded  there,  that  I could  not  get  accommodations  before 
the  latter  part  of  August.  This  settled  the  question ; I will  not  wait, 
but  will  go  on  home  by  the  earliest  Steamer  of  the  North  German 
Lloyd  Line  from  Southampton.  During  the  morning,  I went  to  the 
Office  of  that  Company  and  engaged  a State-Room  on  the  Werra, 
leaving  next  Sunday.  I will,  therefore,  be  fast  behind  the  Letter  I 
mailed  upon  my  lauding  a day  or  two  ago. 

Whilst  at  the  Bankers’,  I inquired  about  the  Advertisement  con- 
cerning the  Virginia  Debt.  I was  directed  to  the  persons  in  the 
Banking  House  having  the  matter  in  charge.  They  advised  me  of 


LONDON. 


505 


the  condition  of  the  entire  business.  The  State  has  taken  no  action 
whatever ; the  whole  thing  proceeds  from  the  outside  friends  of  the 
Commonwealth  and  the  Creditors.  Now,  I am  sure,  is  a fine  oppor- 
tunity for  our  people  to  come  to  terms.  Will  they  do  it  ? or  shall 
we  drift  farther  and  farther  into  disorder  and  discredit?  I could 
give  them  no  information  about  the  state  of  Sentiment  there,  not 
having  had  any  Papers  for  months. 

One  of  the  Gentlemen  went  with  me  to  the  Office  of  the  Council 
of  Foreign  Bondholders.  The  Secretary  received  me  most  cordially ; 
but  he  informed  me  that  both  my  old  Friends,  Mr.  E.  P.  Bouverie 
and  Mr.  Francis  Bennock,  were  both  dead : — the  former  died  last 
December,  the  time  of  my  departure  upon  this  Tour ; the  latter  died 
on  the  Train  about  a month  ago.  Sir  John  Lubbock  has  succeeded 
Mr.  Bouverie  as  the  President  of  the  Council.  I am  not  acquainted 
with  him,  and  he  was  not  in  at  the  time  of  my  call.  I do  not  know 
what  manner  of  men  have  the  affair  in  hand  here,  and  can,  therefore, 
prognosticate  nothing  about  the  result. 

Walking  down  Strand,  a gentleman  came  up  and  cordially  saluted 
me.  I recognized  the  gentleman,  Mr.  Nugent,  you  remember,  I met 
in  South  America  with  Colonel  Guinness,  with  the  latter  of  whom  I 
travelled  across  the  Continent.  He  proposed  to  entertain  me,  living 
in  London  or  near;  but  I declined,  giving  him  my  stereotyped  reasons. 
He  said  Colonel  Guinness  was  again  assigned  to  duty  in  the  British 
Army;  which  he  greatly  desired. 

Coming  to  my  Room,  I had  a good  time  reading  the  Letters.  I 
was  greatly  in  hopes  you  were  in  Winchester  with  Taylor;  if  not 
now  there,  I trust  you  will  be  on  my  return.  Run  up  forthwith — 
congratulate  Louise  both  upon  her  success,  scholastically,  and  her 
health,  physically — the  latter  chiefest  of  all.  And  I heartily  con- 
gratulate you  and  all  the  members  of  both  households  upon  your 
hygienic  condition. 

To  Margaret:  Your  Letters  were  equal  to  a Gold  Find.  You 
have  photographed  for  me  things  at  your  and  the  Old  Home  and  in 
Society  genei’ally.  You  can,  when  I return,  fill  in  with  the  materials 
of  the  lost  Letters  re-told  by  word  of  mouth,  and  I will  have  a perfect 
picture  of  the  events  which  have  transpired  since  my  departure.  I 
will  postpone  comments  till  we  meet,  which  will  be  shortly  now.  You 
are  glad  of  it ; so  am  I. 


506 


LETTER  NO.  20. 


To  Taylor':  Your  account  of  the  Farm  is,  on  the  whole,  favorable; 
bad  at  lioine,  not  having  a Cook.  I greatly  fear  our  old  town  will 
suffer  heavily  in  what,  to  me,  seems  a silly  Boom.  Of  course,  the 
Hotel  scheme  is  and  will  be  a failure.  It  will  not  now  be  built ; and 
if  built,  will  be  a fatuitous  effort,  from  which  no  good  can  result.  It 
is  too  far  away  from  the  centre  of  the  town  to  be  of  any  avail  to 
its  business.  As  a Country  resort,  there  are  too  many  such  places 
already ; nearly  every  one  of  them  is  bankrupt,  and  so  will  this  be, 
should  it  ever  get  under  roof — of  which  there  is  no  possible  chance, 
unless  Judge  Hanley  builds  it,  which,  with  his  experience  already,  he 
will  not  be  apt  to  do.  Poor  old  Winchester  ! those  professing  to  aid 
her,  not  only  fail  in  that,  but  overreach  themselves.  Ever  since  I 
left  the  Continent  of  America,  I have  been  travelling  through ' the 
boomed-wrecks  of  Countries  and  Cities.  We  cannot  stand  the  re-ac- 
tion from  a Boom ; we  are  altogether  too  poor. 

On  my  walk  along  Strand,  Fleet,  Ludgate,  and  Cheapside  to  the 
Bank,  I passed  St.  Paul’s,  standing  amid  the  thoroughfares — majestic 
and  dirty  as  ever — smeared  over  with  soot  and  grime  from  the  breath 
of  the  great  City  it  dominates.  I walked  through  its  so-ealled  Church 
Yard,  looking  more  trim  and  cleaner  than  I ever  saw  it : the  grass 
and  flowers  washed  and  fresh,  the  few  benches  filled  with  people  of 
both  sexes  and  of  every  age,  snifiiug  their  fragrance  amid  the  tide  of 
the  “ madding  crowd,”  flowing  ceaselessly  around  them.  And  then 
I went  in  and  wandered  about,  and  refreshed  my  memory,  from  burly 
Sam  Johnson,  clad  with  such  bad  taste  in  a Roman  Toga,  to  the 
“ gaunt  figure  of  the  Old  Field  Marshal,”  lying  grim  upon  his  Bier, 
just  as  when  the  ‘‘Destroyer”  crept  into  his  Chamber  and  struck  the 
fatal  blow. 

In  the  afternoon,  I wandered  to  the  Parliament  Houses,  and  pass- 
ing  by  the  huge  and  I think  tawdry  Pile,  contented  myself  with 
looking  into  Westminster  Hall,  born  nearly  a thousand  years  ago, 
worth  in  its  magnificent  proportions  all  the  rest  together,  and  filled  to 
bursting  with  the  incidents  and  utterances  of  a great  Nation’s  life. 

And  then  where  else  could  or  should  I go  but  to  Westminster 
Abbey,  near  by.  I strolled  and  lingered  in  its  every  part.  But  I 
will  not  now,  any  more  than  elsewhere,  bother  you  with  a twice  told 
tale.  You  and  I had  enough  of  description  on  my  Second  Tour, 
But  whilst  I will  not  tell  it,  I enjoyed  even  more  thoroughly  than 
before ; for  there  is  such  a volume  of  memories  and  life-times  here. 


LONDON. 


507 


that  any  number  of  readings  will  not  exhaust.  When  I saw  it  for 
the  fii’st  time,  it  was  simply  the  revival  of  what  I seemed  to  have 
seen  at  some  former  period ; now,  it  is  still  more  like  the  meeting 
with  a familiar  friend. 

And  then  I went  among  the  living  on  the  Victoria  Embankment, 
and  Westminster  Bridge,  and  saw  the  crowds  enjoying  the  delightful 
evening,  either  upon  the  shore,  amid  the  trees  and  flowers,  or  on  the 
little.  Excursion  Boats,  steamiflg  up  and  down  the  River,  whilst  the 
Obelisk,  guarded  by  the  Sphinxes,  looked  at  the  young  and  giddy 
ways  with  fateful  faces,  from  the  Ages,  which  were  old  when  our 
Christian  Era  started  upon  its  career. 

And  then  the  Sun  warned  me  that  the  day  was  done. 

Same  City  and  Hotel, 

Wednesday,  Jidy  30,  1890. 

I forgot  to  say,  that  whilst  in  Westminster  Abbey  yesterday,  I saw 
a gentleman  wandering  like  myself  among  the  Tombs,  whom  I took 
for  my  Friend  Mr.  Layard,  and  thus  addressed  him.  He  responded, 
that  he  was  not  Mr.  Edgar  Layard,  but  his  Brother.  I found  I 
was  speaking  to  Mr.  Layard  of  Ninevah  fame.  We  had  some  talk, 
in  the  course  of  which  he  told  me  his  Brother  was  much  better,  and 
he  hoped  not  in  such  danger  of  his  life  as  he  supposed.  This  Layard 
is  simply  on  a visit  here.  He  lives  in  Florence.  I sent  word  by 
him  to  my  old  Friend  that  for  want  of  time  I could  not  get  to  see 
him. 

In  this  connection  I will  say  that  I can  hardly  expect  to  meet  with 
Mittie  and  Anson  and  John  Hooe  and  their  Brides;  though  stranger 
conjunctions  than  even  that  have  occurred  to  me  on  my  travels.  I 
should  like  to  see  them  in  their  happiness  on  their  wanderings. 

I have  had  another  busy  day.  I again  went  to  my  Bankers’,  and 
left  an  order  to  forward  all  Letters  and  Papers  hereafter  received  to 
Brown  Brothers  & Co.,  New  York  ; there  I will  receive  them,  or  they 
will  be  sent  to  me,  leaving  no  fragments,  at  least  of  these  later  Letters, 
floating  helplessly.  I drew  enough  of  money  to  pay  my  Steamer 
fare  and  answer  my  purposes  till  I reach  New  York.  Then  I came 
back  to  the  Ofiice  of  the  North  German  Lloyd  and  took  my  State- 
Room  on  the  Werra,  the  Agent  promising  I should  not  be  disturbed 


508 


LETTER  NO.  tiO. 


in  my  sole  'occupancy.  This  again  is  both  courteous  and  fortunate. 
The  Shi2>,  you  remember,  I crossed  the  Atlantic  on  once  before. 

Having  fixed  these  business  matters,  I visited  the  National  Gallery 
of  Painting,  and  revived  my  memory  of  it.  There  are  many  of 
Rubens’  upon  its  walls,  with  his  fat,  gross,  Dutch  women  and  chil- 
dren, and  strong  men ; of  Rembrandt,  with  his  uncommon  genius 
gleaming  through  the  seemingly  fading  figures — the  more  suggestive 
by  reason  of  this  artistic  trick ; of  Hogarth,  the  full  set  of  his  Marriage 
a la  Mode;  of  Turner,  apparently  dashed  npon  the  canvass  in  an  agony 
of  effort  to  depict  the  impossible,  stirring  the  kindred  flame  of  Ruskin 
into  a frenzy  of  admiration.  But  I am  doing  what  I resolved  not  to 
do — give  any  description  of  things  and  scenes  of  which  you  heard,  some 
time  ago,  enough.  For  are  they  not  written  in  the  Second  Tour? 

I then  entered  a Hansom,  and  made  the  Driver  take  me  to  Five 
Dials,  which  has  been  entirely  renovated,  the  old  Buildings  in  the 
main  pulled  down  and  a grand  New  Theatre  and  other  fine  structnres 
erected  upon  their  site ; then  to  Seven  Dials,  a sorry  spot  once  upon 
a time,  like  onr  New  York  Five  Points,  cleaned  up  much  since  I was 
there,  but  not  wiped  out  by  projected  Avenues  aud  Boulevards,  as 
I had  heard ; then  to  Drury  Lane  and  Covent  Garden,  and  on  to 
Smithfield  Market;  and  thence  to  Whitechapel  Road,  where  Jack 
the  Ripper  has  of  late  been  committing  his  ghoulish  crimes — a wide, 
fine  thoroughfare,  presenting  in  its  appearance  and  population  an 
earnest  entreaty  for  cleaning  up,  like  the  late  famous  Seven  Dials ; 
and  then  by  the  Tower  of  London  and  St.  Paul’s,  historic  spots  and 
things;  then  to  the  Juvenile  Aquarium.  Passing  rapidly  through 
the  sti'eets,  I noticed  some  of  my  Christ’s  Church  Hospital  Boys, 
with  their  yellow  legs  and  bare  heads ; and,  also,  some  of  the  West- 
minster School  Boys,  in  their  trim  modern  costume  and  shiny  hats — 
tlie  Hospital  Boys  without  any,  the  latter  with  far  too  much  of  that 
head  covering  to  be  comfortable  or  attractive.  This  morning  I went 
to  aud  from  the  Bank  on  the  top  of  an  Omnibus — a favorite  mode  of 
locomotion  along  Strand,  Fleet,  Ludgate,  and  Cheapside  for  strangers 
and  the  boys,  and  even  grown  people  of  the  City,  for  the  charge  is 
only  a Penny,  and  from  the  lofty  perch  a good  view  is  had  of  the 
surging  tide  in  the  very  heart  of  the  marvellous  City. 

The  Aquarium  was  full  of  people,  come  from  the  World’s  ends  to 
while  an  hour.  It  is  an  “ Omnium  Gatherum.”  This  time,  among 
other  permanent  curiosities,  a grand  display  of  Flowers ; and  Lon- 


LONDON. 


509 


don,  though  not  a Land  of  Flowers,  can  make  a brilliant  show  when 
called  upon  : you  remember  that  at  Regent  Park  when  I was  here 
before.  And  there,  too,  were  all  sorts  of  performances — Singing, 
Pantomime,  Magic,  Slight  of  Hand,  Trained  Dogs  and  Bears,  Vault- 
ing, Rope  Dancing  and  Walking,  by  men  and  women,  and  various 
other  startling  things,  each  following  the  other  in  rapid  sequence, 
making  the  whole,  with  the  applauding  audience,  seem  sure  enough 
the  vainest  of  Vanity  Fairs.  Just  across  the  way,  a few  yards  ofF, 
stands  Westminster  Abbey,  where  the  Nation’s  Great  ones  rest  in 
Solemn  Silence.  A little  further  still,  on  either  hand,  their  successors 
in  Parliament  and  on  the  Throne  are  struggling  to  preserve  that 
order  which  makes  all  this  vanity  possible,  even  in  its  apparent  iucon- 
gruity. 

The  Sun  lingered,  and  England’s  long  twilight  enabled  me  to  walk 
through  St.  James  Park  to  Buckingham  Palace,  at  the  farther  end, 
returning  by  St.  James  Palace  and  Marlborough  House,  enjoying  far 
more  than  the  displays  of  Royalty  and  its  attendant  Art,  the  rich 
luxuriance  of  Bonny  England’s  vegetation  of  trees  and  grass. 

Even  upon  my  first  visit,  I seemed  to  see  nothing  new  in  things 
around  me ; rather  the  revival  of  the  Long  Ago.  Then,  I simply 
felt  that  I was  giving  to  my  memories  a “ local  habitation  ; ” now, 
whilst  I wander  listlessly,  the  scenes  about  me  are  alive  with  familiar 
knowledge,  and  the  atmosphere  is  laden  with  its  fragrance. 

Southampton,  England, 

Southwestern  Hotel, 

Thursday,  July  31,  1890. 

I had  Breakfasted  at  the  Charing  Cross  Hotel  and  was  in  the 
Reading  Room,  when  feeling  some  one  touch  my  shoulder,  I turned, 
and  recognized  Mr.  Fletcher,  my  travelling  companion,  you  remem- 
ber, of  the  Steamer  Australien,  with  whom  among  others  I parted  at 
Mahe.  We  had  a cordial  meeting  and  a pleasant  chat.  I had  already 
made  my  arrangements  to  come  down  here,  thinking  I could  spend 
the  few  intervening  days  before  I take  the  Werra  more  pleasantly 
and  profitably  in  and  about  this  City  than  in  Ijondon.  I,  therefore, 
invited  him  to  come  with  me  in  my  Carriage  to  the  Station,  that  we 
might  prolong  our  conversation.  He  consented,  and  settling  my  bill, 
we  rode  to  Waterloo  Station  together,  and  taking  a seat  with  me  in 


510 


LETTER  NO.  SO. 


the  Car,  talked  till  the  time  for  the  departure  of  the  Train.  He  is 
going  to  Ireland,  and  is  longing  to  return  to  Austi’alia  as  he  longed 
to  coniQ  from  Australia  to  England.  He  is  in  that  nervous  state 
from  overwork,  that  no  place  or  rest  satisfies  him.  Overstrain  is  a 
grievous  trouble. 

Scarcely  had  I bade  him  Good  Bye ! when  a gentleman  sitting  near, 
hearing  from  our  talk  that  I was  from  the  United  States,  introduced 
himself  to  me  as  a fellow-citizen,  and  presented  his  card,  introducing 
at  the  same  time  his  Son, — Charles  Laurence,  Harbor-Master,  Port 
of  Philadelphia.  He  is  in  charge  of  the  Training  Ship,  you  will 
recall,  I spoke  of  as  being  anchored  in  the  Hai’bor  when  we  steamed 
in  to  Southampton.  I took  it  to  be  a Training  Vessel  from  Annapolis, 
of  Cadets  in  the  U.  S.  Navy.  I was  mistaken.  It  is  a U.  S.  Ship, 
but  lent  to  the  State  of  Pennsylvania  and  the  City  of  Philadelphia 
under  recent  I^aws,  to  enable  that  State  and  City,  by  contribution  of 
their  authorities,  to  educate  and  fit  young  men  for  their  Merchant 
Marine.  Young  Officers  of  the  Navy  have  been  assigned  to  duty  on 
it  as  Instructors.  New  York  State  and  City  has,  also,  a Vessel  under 
similar  conditions  and  for  similar  purposes.  They  are  the  only  two 
of  our  States  and  Cities  which  have  entered  upon  the  scheme ; but  it 
has  a business-like  look  towards  inaugurating  the  building  up  of  a 
Merchant  Marine,  which,  you  know,  before  the  War,  was  next  in 
magnitude  to  Great  Britain  in  the  carrying  trade  of  the  World.  May 
this  movement  result  in  success  ! — in  the  present  status  of  affairs,  of 
vital  import  to  the  future  of  our  Country. 

I had  much  pleasant  and  profitable  talk  with  Mr.  Laurence  about 
it,  which  I have  not  time  to  detail.  We  parted  in  Southampton : he 
to  go  to  his  Ship,  I to  come  to  this  Hotel. 

After  Lunch,  I walked  out  to  see  the  town.  It  claims  more  than 
sixty  thousand  people,  and  is  by  no  means  an  unimportant  place  in 
History.  Here  Canute  the  Dane  landed,  and  gave  exhibition  of  the 
moral  and  religious  force  that  has  made  the  Northern  Nations  strong, 
in  spite  of  the  attempt  to  overthrow  that  force  by  his  Courtiers,  which 
the  Persian  Monarch  in  the  more  ancient  days  was  unable  to  resist ; 
here,  in  1189,  Richard  Coeur-de-Lion  departed  with  his  Crusaders  for 
the  rescue  of  the  Holy  Land;  here,  in  1385  and  1415,  Edward  III. 
and  Henry  V.  set  sail  for  the  invasion  of  their  hereditary  enemy  across 
the  Channel;  here  Philip  of  Spain,  in  1554,  landed,  for  the  intended 
capture  of  England  through  her  Queen ; here  the  unhappy,  ill-fated, 


SOUTHAMPTON. 


511 


Charles  I.  once  lived;  here  the  Pilgrim  Fathers  embarked  upon  the 
Mayflower,  to  seek  a home  beyond  the  Sea,  and  unwittingly  to  help 
lay  the  foundations  of  a mighty  Empire.  Southampton  claims  some 
incidents  in  History  of  mighty  import,  of  which  she  is  justified  in 
cherishing  the  remembrance. 

I pedestrianized  the  town.  Save  these  Historic  memories,  it  has 
not  much  to  interest  the  stranger  ; — they  were  of  such  a nature,  that 
in  passing,  no  memorial  was  left.  Its  chief  thoroughfare  is  High 
Street,  spanned  by  Bar  Gate,  a massive,  well-built  and  well-preserved 
remnant  of  the  old  City  Walls.  Beyond  it,  the  street  extends  and 
terminates  in  a large  Park,  an  ornament  to  the  City.  On  one  hand 
stands  a Statue  of  Palmerston,  once  a Burgess  of  Southampton  and 
Representative  in  Parliament,  and  Premier  of  England,  of  whom 
they  are,  and  reasonably,  very  proud  ; on  the  other  hand,  and  a little 
farther  removed,  is  one  of  Isaac  Watts,  more  famous  once  than  now, 
as  the  sweet  Singer  of  the  Church.  What  would  our  friends  the 
Presbyterians  have  done  without  him  in  their  Theologic,  somber  days, 
before  they  took  on  Scientific  Music  ? 

Same  City  and  Hotel, 

Friday,  August  1,  1890. 

The  day  has  been  an  interesting  one,  and  every  hour  occupied.  I 
visited  New  Forest  and  Bournemouth : the  former  called  New,  though 
existing  under  that  name  since  the  Conqueror,  established  by  him  as 
a Royal  Hunting  Demesne ; the  latter  a modern  Place  of  Resort  upon 
the  English  Channel. 

I left  Southampton  about  nine  o’clock  by  Train  for  Lyndhurst 
Road  Station,  eleven  miles,  situated  in  the  New  Forest.  Here  there 
is  an  excellent  Hotel,  from  the  Proprietor  of  which  I hired  a Landau, 
a light  one-horse  four-seated  affair,  with  high  perch  outside  for  the 
Driver,  and  falling  top ; my  horse  was  a fine  one,  and  my  Driver 
a trim  Britisher  in  livery — blue  coat  and  brass  buttons,  with  buff 
breeches  and  fair  top  boots — quite  a swell  turn  out  for  a plain  Repub- 
lican, but  admirable  for  comfort  and  observation  ; and  why  shouldn’t 
a Republican  enjoy  these  things  if  he  can  ? for  is  he  not  one  of  seventy 
millions  of  Sovereigns? 

This  is  the  largest  of  the  Crown  lands  now  remaining  in  England. 
It  covers  in  area  ninety-one  thousand  acres — twenty-six  thousand  of 


512 


LETTER  NO.  SO. 


it  now  belong  to  private  owners,  whose  residences  ai’e  scattered  over 
the  whole  in  villas,  in  villages,  in  handsome  residences,  and  humble 
homes.  Some  of  these  are  modern,  with  all  the  appointments  of  our 
modern  Civilization ; some  are  venerable,  with  thatched  roofs,  the 
walls  covered  with  Ivy,  Morning  Glory,  Roses,  and  other  vines  and 
flowers,  peeping  out  from  Times  whereof  man’s  memory  runneth  not, 
and  looking  like  the  English  cottages  of  which  one  reads : guarding 
the  story  of  generations  of  humble  but  worthy  people,  if  not  with  the 
maternal  strength,  with  the  sanctity  of  a Castle. 

My  Driver  was  a knowing  one,  and  giving  him  the  rein,  he  drove 
me  over,  or  by,  every  point  of  interest  in  the  Northern  part  of  the 
Forest,  and  by  admirably  graded  roads;  Bartley,  a straggling  old- 
timey  English  village,  with  every  phase  of  home-like  rustic  beauty ; 
then  through  open  fields  and  forests  alternating,  to  Minstead ; mov- 
ing Westward,  and  rising  on  higher  ground  at  Stouey  Cross,  around 
me  heather  bloomed,  and  turf  grew  and  was  cut  and  piled  for  fuel, 
and  from  the  elevated  site  a view  opened  over  forests  for  many  miles 
around,  towards  the  East,  bounded  by  the  gleam  of  Southampton 
Water. 

Not  far  from  the  summit  at  Stoney  Cross,  I got  out  of  the  Carriage 
and  descended  to  a vale  below,  and  was  interested  in  viewing  the 
spot  where  King  William  Rufus  met  his  fate — struck  by  an  arrow 
sped  from  the  bow  of  Walter  Tyrrell.  He  was  one  of  the  King’s 
attendants  in  the  Chase,  and  the  mortal  wound  was  accidental.  A 
triangular  Iron  Case  five  or  six  feet  high  encloses  the  stone  which 
was  put  to  mark  the  spot,  and  upou  its  three  faces,  in  raised  Roman 
Letters,  are  the  following  Inscriptions,  which  tell  the  memorable 
story  : 

“ Here  stood  the  Oak  Tree,  on  which  an  Arrow,  shot  by  Sir  Wal- 
ter Tyrrell  at  a Stag,  glanced  and  struck  King  William  II.,  surnamed 
Rufus,  in  the  Breast,  of  which  he  died  on  the  second  day  of  August, 
1100.” 

“ King  William  II.,  surnamed  Rufus,  being  slain,  as  before  related, 
was  laid  in  a Cart  belonging  to  one  Purkis,  and  drawn  from  hence  to 
Winchester,  and  buried  in  the  Cathedral  Church  of  that  City.” 

‘‘  That  this  Spot,  where  an  event  so  memorable  had  happened,  might 
not  hereafter  be  forgotten,  the  Enclosed  Stone  was  set  up  by  John, 
Lord  Delaware,  who  had  seen  the  Tree  growing  in  this  Place.” 


NEW  FOREST. 


513 


“ This  Stone  having  been  ranch  mutilated,  and  the  Inscriptions  on 
each  of  the  three  sides  defaced,  this  more  durable  Memorial,  with  the 
original  Inscriptions,  was  erected  in  the  year  1841  by  William  Sturges 
Bourne,  Warden.” 

Though  Tyrrell’s  shot  was  purely  accidental,  he  deemed  it  safer  to 
fly  across  the  Channel,  for  he  felbhow  unsafe  it  was  in  those  days  for 
a man  who  had  even  by  misadventure  invaded  that  Divinity  which 
doth  hedge  a King  ” — though  King  Rufus  left  no  one  to  shed  a tear 
upon  his  grave.  But  whether  designed  or  accidental,  the  Fates  chose 
a beautiful  spot  whereon  to  consummate  the  deed.  Around  it  now, 
venerable  trees  stand  singly  or  in  clumps,  painting  their  shadows  upon 
the  rich  green  sward;  and  tables  and  benches  are  strewn  about,  where 
a woman,  who  sold  me  a Photograph  of  the  Scene,  told  me  crowds 
assembled  from  time  to  time  to  have  a Picnic : in  their  jollity,  many, 
doubtless,  not  knowing  so  much  as  even  who  Rufus  was,  and  now,  in 
this  eight  hundredth  year  since  the  deed  was  done,  caring  less. 

Then  we  drove  on  to  Boldrewood,  three  miles  further,  through 
Mark  Ash,  at  both  which  places  there  are  magnificent  groups  of  Oak 
and  Beech  trees ; then  to  Knightwood,  where,  among  other  trees  of 
younger  life,  there  stands  a monster  Oak ; then  on  through  the  village 
of  Lyndhurst,  where  I stopped  to  visit  the  Parish  Church — a modern 
structure,  worth  seeing  for  the  Fresco  of  Sir  F.  Leighton,  President 
of  the  Royal  Academy,  of  the  Parable  of  the  Wise  and  Foolish  Vir- 
gins, forming  an  Altar  Piece  of  the  Church.  It  is  certainly  beauti- 
fully conceived  and  executed. 

Whilst  in  Lyndhurst,  a four-horse  English  Stage  came  dashing  in 
from  Bournemouth,  with  twenty  on  top,  heralded  by  a horn.  It  was 
a lively  sight,  and  the  men  and  women  from  their  high  perch  were 
gaily  as  the  horn. 

Lyndhurst  is  the  village  from  which  Copley  took  his  title,  when 
elevated  to  the  W oolsack,  and  is  the  centre  and  capital  of  the  Forest. 
It  is  surrounded  and  seated  in  the  midst  of  scenery  which  ever  in- 
duces in  me  the  desire  to  stop  and  linger,  and  by  myself,  regardless, 
to  make  or  waste  my  time. 

Three  miles  more  brought  us  to  Lyndhurst  Station,  whence  we 
started ; with  fine  Roads  and  our  good  strong  horse,  we  made  the 
distance  of  twenty  miles,  including  stoppages,  in  something  over  three 
hours — by  this  time  half-past  one  o’clock.  I was  not  at  all  fatigued, 
and  ordered  my  Lunch,  and  the  Carriage  and  Driver  again,  with  a 
33 


514 


LETTER  NO.  20. 


■fresh  horse, 'for  the  afternoon ; and  at  two  o’clock  we  were  off  once 
more — this  time  through  the  Southern  portion  of  the  Forest. 

We  drove  to  Beaulieu — pronounced  Bewley — Abbey,  on  the  River 
Exe,  nine  miles.  This  Abbey  was  founded  by  King  John  in  1204, 
and  belonged  to  the  Cistercian  Order.  The  property  is  now  owned 
by  Lord  Montagu,  I believe  a son  of  the  Duke  of  Buccleugh.  He 
occupies  the  Abbot’s  House — now  called  the  Palace  House — which 
he  has  repaired  and  modernized,  and  which  to-day  was  decorated,  my 
Driver  said,  in  honor  of  the  anniversary  of  his  Silver  Wedding.  The 
Abbey  we  came  to  see — or  rather  its  ruins,  for  nothing  else  is  left — 
stands  outside  of  the  residential  enclosure;  but  both  are  surrounded  by 
one  of  those  Baronial  Parks,  which  are  England’s  special  glory.  Two 
young  Ladies  came  whilst  I was  there,  and  the  Head  Gardener  showed 
us  through  the  Ruin.  But  I have  told  you  a quantity  about  such 
things  on  my  Second  Tour  and  will  not  stop  at  this ; for  what  is 
left  by  time  and  the  despoiler  amounts  to  very  little.  The  Church 
is  gone ; the  Ruins  of  the  Refectory  and  the  Dormitories  and  a few 
other  remnants  are  there.  The  stones  have  been  taken  away  for  othei*^ 
structures — especially,  I was  told,  to  build  the  Eagle’s  Nest,  which 
looked  out  charmingly  at  us  from  the  trees  when  we  were  coming  in 
the  other  day,  in  full  view  from  our  Ship,  steaming  up  the  Solent. 

From  the  Abbey  we  drove  to  Brockenhurst,  six  miles,  to  catch  the 
Train  to  Bournemouth,  fifteen  miles  further.  I here  dismissed  my 
Carriage  and  let  it  return  to  Lyndhurst  Road  Station  by  a shorter 
route  than  the  one  we  came.  I was  somewhat  delayed  by  the  Train 
being  behind  time;  but  taking  it  upon  arrival,  went  on  to  Bourne- 
mouth, fifteen  miles. 

This  is  a Sea-side  place  of  Resort,  situated  on  the  English  ChanneL 
It  is  comparatively  young,  but  has  grown  with  wonderful  rapidity, 
reminding  one  of  some  of  those  in  our  Country.  Immediately  upon 
my  arrival  I hired  a Landau,  and  told  my  Driver  to  take  me  through 
the  town  and  to  the  Piers  and  Esplanades.  This  he  did  with  all 
the  speed  his  horse  could  make.  On  my  former  Tour  I wrote  of  a 
number  of  similar  places  upon  the  Coast — Scarborough,  Margate, 
Ramsgate,  Hastings,  Brighton — but  none  of  them,  in  some  respects, 
surpass  this  mushroom  growth.  It  has  not  the  splendid  heights  and 
fine  sweep  of  Sea  of  Scarborough,  nor  the  brilliant  stretch  of  elegant 
structures  along  the  Shore  which  older  Brighton  presents ; but  it  has 
quite  considerable  Cliffs,  which  look  out  upon  the  Channel — to-day 


SOUTHAMPTON. 


515 


in  glassy  repose  to  the  Coasts  of  France ; and  the  hills  and  uneven 
ground  upon  which  the  interior  town  stands,  have  been  most  taste- 
fully laid  out  into  Parks  and  Gardens  and  thoroughfares,  adorned 
with  handsome  and  costly  structures.  Bournemouth  now  is  one  of 
the  most  interesting  and  beautiful  Watering  Places  I know  in  Eng- 
land. It  covers  much  ground,  too,  extending  along  the  beach  for 
several  miles.  If  I had  had  the  time,  I should  not  have  objected  to 
staying  over  a day  or  two.  But  to-morrow  I have  other  objects  to 
see,  and  the  next,  the  Steamer  leaves. 

Returning  to  the  Station,  I took  Train  for  Southampton,  reaching 
here,  thirty  miles,  by  nine  o’clock ; but  the  clouds,  which  hung  off 
and  on  during  the  day,  had  clean  gone,  and  England’s  twilight  linger- 
ing, it  was  not  dark.  The  distance  travelled  in  various  modes  was 
about  ninety  miles,  and  of  most  varied  entertainment.  I wish  you 
could  have  been  with  me  through  the  shifting  scenes  of  constant  move- 
ment : the  Ancient  Forest  where  the  axe  has  never  been ; the  time- 
worn villages,  looking  quaint  and  quiet  in  their  old-fashioned  dress 
and  head-gear ; fields  covered  with  velvet  grass,  or  graceful  fern,  or 
the  heather  in  its  bloom  ; hale  and  healthy-looking  people,  children 
fat  and  sleek,  whose  costumes  did  not  know  at  all  the  cut  and  gait  of 
City  life  ; monarch  trees,  whose  spread  of  limb  was  wonderful,  or  the 
young  ones  growing  on  the  spot  where  their  progenitors,  century  after 
century,  had  fallen  and  fructified  the  soil ; ruins  which,  if  they  had  a 
tongue,  could  speak  more  knowingly  and  eloquently  than  any  History 
ever  written.  How  would  your  nerves  and  legs  have  stood  it?  Mine 
seem  never  to  weary.  I impose  upon  them  labors  which  to  most 
would  seem  burdens  grievous  to  be  borne,  but  they  never  fail.  Un- 
like our  friend  Levi,  who  said  he  ate  a peck  of  green  apples,  and 
a watermelon,  and  several  cucumbers,  and  roasting  ears,  and  drank 
a quart  of  buttermilk,  and  at  night  had  the  Cholera  Morbus — and 
wondered  what  gave  it  to  him  ! 


Same  City  and  Hotel, 

Saturday,  August  2,  1890. 

I visited  Netley  Abbey  this  morning.  We  saw  its  site  from  the 
Vessel’s  Deck  when  coming  in,  not  a great  distance  from  the  big 
Military  Hospital.  It  is  a drive  of  about  three  miles  from  the 
Hotel. 


516 


LETTER  NO.  20. 


I took  a Landau  and  went  there.  Southampton  lies  between  two 
Rivers — the  Itchen  on  the  East,  and  the  Test  or  Anton  on  the  West — 
both  flowing  into  Southampton  Water,  We  crossed  the  former  on  a 
Boat  called  a Floating  Bridge,  and  drove  along  Southampton  Water — 
the  Harbor  and  its  Vessels  on  the  right,  and  luxuriant  vegetation  of 
trees  and  hedges  and  plants  and  flowers  on  the  left.  We  pass  a hand- 
some Home,  with  extensive  and  highly  improved  Grounds,  where  a 
Mr.  Chamberlain  lives — who  owns,  also,  Netley  Abbey. 

We  passed  the  Abbey  and  drove  on  to  the  Hospital  and  through  its 
Grounds,  and  found  the  Institution  quite  as  fine  an  affair  as  it  appeared 
from  the  Steamer — a large  brick  ornamented  structure,  built  just  after 
the  Crimean  War.  Returning  to  the  Abbey,  I paid  it  my  respects. 

On  one  side  of  the  Road  stands  Netley  Castle,  reformed  into 
modern  proportions,  and  setting  soberly  and  silently  in  its  enclosure 
like  any  other  thing  in  Art  or  Nature  which  time  and  merit  have 
refined  and  mollified  into  quiet  confidence ; on  the  other  side,  a few 
paces  from  the  thoroughfare,  stand  the  Ruins  of  the  Abbey,  speaking 
most  eloquently  and  seductively  for  themselves. 

The  Abbey  was  of  the  Cistercian  Order,  and  an  offshoot  of  the 
great  Beaulieu,  whose  wrecks  we  visited  yesterday.  The  Ruins  here 
are  much  greater  than  those  of  the  Parent  Institution,  and  of  much 
greater  interest  and  beauty — “ Filia  pulchrior  pulcherima  Matre.” 
Indeed,  I have  seen  in  England  few  if  any  of  these  marvellous  spots, 
save  Fountains  Abbey  on  Second  Tour,  of  greater  charm.  Those  old 
Monks  were  knowing  and  cultivated  men  in  their  day  and  genera- 
tion ; with  a genius  for  the  Esthetic  manifested  in  their  Castles,  and 
Cathedrals,  and  Abbeys,  and  Monasteries,  which  find  no  counterpart 
in  recent  effbrts  on  earth  to-day.  They  knew  how  to  make  life  com- 
fortable, if  not  luxurious,  whilst  laying  their  plans  for  the  conquest 
of  the  World,  and  strengthening  the  bonds  of  a Rule,  which,  in  force 
and  perpetuity,  and  soul-searching  influence,  has  had  no  rival  in  the 
whole  range  of  the  History  of  men.  The  very  Artisans  who  carried 
out  in  work  the  designs  of  these  Kings  of  men,  were  engaged  in  a 
labor  of  Devotion,  and  builded  better  than  they  knew,  and  the  mass  of 
the  people,  submitting  implicitly  to  be  led,  beheld  in  these  products 
of  the  highest  Art  the  very  Gates  of  Heaven.  Will  we  ever  see  the 
like  on  Earth  again  ? 

Netley  Abbey  was  one  of  those  Gateways,  and  presents  in  its  Ruins, 
not  only  a “ Thing  of  Beauty,”  but  in  many  senses,  a Historic  Land- 
mark. 


SOUTHAMPTON. 


517 


It  stands,  like  all  such  Ruins  I have  seen  in  England,  surrounded 
by  a charming  Close,  with  rich  garniture  of  grass  and  trees,  indicat- 
ing how  Nature  and  Art  do  ever  dwell  in  unity  and  sweet  harmony, 
when  they  grow  old  together.  In  further  confirmation,  there  stand 
the  stark  walls  of  Church  and  Chapel  and  Refectory  and  Cloisters, 
covered  thick  with  Ivy,  trying  how  it  can  cover  up  man’s  or  Time’s 
spoil  with  ever  living  and  loving  Green.  I would  have  liked  to  stay 
longer  in  the  silence  and  sweetness  of  the  spot ; for  the  only  sounds 
heard  there  were  the  chirp  and  song  of  Birds  that  had  their  homes  in 
the  walls  or  vines,  and  that  inarticulate  melody  which  mingled  its 
music  with  them  from  the  Ages. 

A few  persons  were  there,  wandering  like  myself — maybe  enjoying 
more  than  I the  scene  I had  to  leave,  preferring  much  to  stay.  I 
have  seen  few  Ruins  that  charmed  me  more.  Then  we  drove  back 
by  a different  route — inland  and  thi’ough  fields  and  habitations,  I 
wished  more  than  ever  you  could  have  been  with  me.  Our  agree- 
ments in  life  have  been  many;  and  to-day  your  nerves  and  legs  would 
not  have  been  imposed  upon ; and  whilst  we  rolled  quietly  and  peace- 
fully through  the  scenes,  there  would  have  been  one  more  agreement 
added  to  our  long  list — that,  surely,  England,  in  her  proper  Season, 
is  a lovely  Land. 

The  Duke  and  Duchess  of  Edinburgh  were  due  to-day  by  appoint- 
ment to  dedicate  the  new  Seamen’s  Missions.  I came  back  in  time 
to  witness  their  arrival  from  Osborne,  and  their  Reception  by  South- 
ampton’s Loyal  People.  I engaged  the  Landau  again,  that  I might 
from  its  elevation  in  the  crowd  view  the  spectacle.  The  Pier  is  not 
far  from  the  Hotel ; the  throng  upon  it  was  very  great,  and  extended 
on  either  side  of  the  streets  through  which  the  Procession  moved,  and 
about  all  the  doors  and  windows,  and  across  the  way  from  poles,  hung 
festoons  of  variegated  Banners  and  Bannerets  and  Streamers.  When 
they  came,  the  Artillery,  planted  on  the  Esplanade,  sounded  salvos 
of  welcome,  and  the  Bands  made  music  of  England’s  National  Air. 

The  Procession  was  a long  one  : headed  by  the  municipal  authori- 
ties of  the  City  in  Carriages,  in  their  robes  of  office,  bearing  the  golden 
batons  and  maces  of  authority ; then  came  the  Royal  Equipage — the 
Duke  and  Duchess — Red  Coats,  local  and  national,  bringing  up  the 
rear.  They  moved  within  a few  feet  of  where  my  Carriage  stood, 
and  I saw  them  both.  She  is  a Blonde,  stout  and  better  looking  than 
her  reputation  for  beauty  justifies;  he  is  an  ordinary  looking  gentle- 


518 


LETTER  NO.  20. 


man,  well-dressed  and  well-behaved.  He  did  not  remove  his  hat, 
and  I cannot  tell  what  manner  of  face  and  head  he  has.  There  was 
no  enthusiasm  in  the  reception,  and  nothing  to  justify  his  uncovering. 
She  bowed  her  head  coldly  and  loftily  in  the  de  Vere  style  ; and  why 
should  she  not?  shall  a Cub  of  the  Russian  Bear  do  otherwise  to  the 
subjects  of  the  Lion’s  Whelp  ? 

The  crowds  of  Beef-Eaters  were  well-dressed  and  orderly,  and 
presented  fairly  the  sport  of  the  Boys  and  the  Frogs — of  which  they 
were  not  the  Frogs.  There  were  in  the  Frogs  the  characteristics  of 
two  natures,  which  can  speedily  convert  a “pleasaunce”  into  a trag- 
edy : — if  to  get  a Tartar  you  scratch  a Russian,  equally  true  is  it  to 
scratch  an  Anglo-Saxon  you  get  a Savage.  Thus,  too,  with  the  Boys 
who  behaved  to  Royalty  so  loyally  to-day.  They  welcome  now  right 
heartily  the  sprigs  of  Royalty;  to-morrow,  in  a frenzy,  they  may  send 
its  representatives  outcasts  over  the  World,  or  blow  them  up  with 
Dynamite  or  Giant  Powder. 

In  the  afternoon,  I strolled  through  West  Gate  and  along  the 
Walls,  grown  hoary  with  years,  out  of  whose  faces  the  centuries  have 
gnawed  multitudinous  morsels  here  and  there — through  the  former 
of  which,  the  painted  placards  hung  up  declare,  the  sturdy  Britisher 
trod  when,  centuries  ago,  hasting  to  join  the  famous  fights  of  Crecy 
and  Agincourt  across  the  Channel.  Then  I wandered  hither  and  thither 
through  the  streets,  nigh  and  far,  stopping  in  the  old  and  new  Book- 
stores to  look  at  the  collections  there,  clean  or  musty,  and  into  the 
shops,  to  eat  a Cranberry  Tart  and  drink  a glass  of  fresh  English 
Milk,  than  which  nothing  is  more  refreshing  to  me  everywhere  in 
my  wanderings  through  the  Bonny  Island. 

On  Steamee  Werea, 

North  German  Lloyd  Line, 

Sunday,  August  3,  1890. 

I left  the  Hotel  at  eleven  or  twelve  o’clock  and  walked  to  the 
Landing,  a Porter  wheeling  my  luggage.  I,  with  it,  went  aboard  a 
nice  little  Steamboat,  the  tender,  so-called,  of  the  Steamer.  Here  we 
remained  till  half-past  two  o’clock,  waiting  the  arrival  of  the  Train 
from  London.  Near  by  us  was  the  Royal  Steamer,  sent  from  Cowes 
to  take  another  sprig  of  Royalty — Prince  Christian — to  the  Isle  of 
Wight  to  join  at  Osborne  the  other  members  of  the  family  and  the 


STEAMSHIP  WERBA— ATLANTIC  OCEAN. 


519 


young  Emperor  of  Germany,  now  on  a visit  there.  They  had  ready 
for  him  a flight  of  steps  covered  with  crimson  cloth,  and  a gangway 
of  the  same  adornment,  to  be  used  by  his  Royal  Highness  in  passing 
from  the  Train  to  the  Ship.  The  Sun  was  warm,  and  I did  not  go 
out  to  witness  the  arrival — indeed,  very  few  were  there.  Her  Majesty 
is  now  divided  into  so  many,  that  I think  the  English  People  look 
upon  the  number  as  not  by  any  means  a luxury  ; especially  do  they 
grumble  about  the  impecunious  German  Princes  tacked  on  almost 
yearly  to  their  Budget,  making  it  a very  heavy  load  to  carry. 

When  the  Train  arrived,  a good  many  came  aboard,  but  not  a large 
number  for  our  big  Steamship,  and  we  steamed  down  Southampton 
Water  to  meet  her.  We  sighted  the  fine  Ship  in  the  Spithead,  and 
met  her  near  the  Fortress,  where  the  Spithead  and  the  Solent  meet. 
The  afternoon  was  beautiful,  and  the  scene  I have  described  on  com- 
ing in,  waved  us  farewell  with  an  equally  smiling  face  on  going  out. 
Soon  the  Werra  was  by  our  side,  and  we  and  our  baggage  were  easily 
transferred  in  the  quiet  waters,  and  me  and  mine  were  lodged  in  my 
State-Room — a large  and  handsome  apartment,  all  to  myself,  fore- 
casting a happy  Voyage  on  this,  the  last  long  Link. 

I have  travelled  on  this  elegant  Steamer  before,  and  will,  therefore, 
simply  say,  she  is  five  thousand  five  hundred  tons.  I am  happy  to 
add,  we  are  not  crowded  : plenty  of  room  everywhere. 

I was  on  Deck  till  we  passed  the  Needles,  watching  with  my  Glass 
both  shores ; by  which  time  the  evening  shades  were  falling,  and  then 
I went  below,  bidding  Albion  Good  Bye  ! once  more. 

My  Tablemate  is  a Mr.  Lewis  Roberts,  from  New  York,  with 
whom  I dined  and  found  agreeable. 

The  Ocean  is  smooth  as  a table,  and  the  Steamship,  without  a 
struggle  or  a ti’emor,  ploughs  her  track  onwax’d  nobly. 

On  Same  Steamship, 

Monday,  Tuesday,  and  Wednesday,  August  4,  5,  and  6,  1890. 

These  days  have  been  vai’ied  in  weather,  but  bearing  no  incidents 
worth  putting  here.  Our  number  of  First  Class  passengers  is  small 
— only  sixty — about  one-fourth  the  comjilement  of  the  Ship.  Conse- 
quently, there  is  plenty  of  room  everywhere.  They  are  nearly  all 
Germans : some  fresh  from  Fatherland,  with  no  knowledge  of  Eng- 
lish ; some  residents  and  citizens  of  the  United  States,  now  homeward 


520 


LETTER  NO.  20. 


bouud  from  .the  Old  Country.  There  are  a few  Americans ; but  I 
have  made  no  acquaintances  except  Mr.  Roberts,  my  table  chum,, 
whom  I find  intelligent  and  agreeable,  and  with  whom  I have  much 
talk.  He  is  a man  of  sixty-five  or  six,  with  much  business  experience. 
He  says  he  was  vigorous  and  active  like  myself  until  last  Winter, 
when  the  Grippe  struck  him,  from  which  he  had  several  recoveries 
and  relapses,  and  was  finally  left  shattered  and  worn.  He  fears  he 
will  never  regain  his  wonted  health.  That  must  have  been  a curious 
Epidemic,  making  its  circuit  of  the  World,  and  striking  hither  and 
thither,  leaving  its  mark  or  memory  Avherever  it  went.  It  was  about 
me,  and  its  victims  wherever  I moved,  making  the  rounds  and  travel- 
ling rapidly ; but  it  passed  me  by. 

Mr.  Roberts  is  a Republican : not  a bitter  one,  though  staunch, 
and  we  have  many  talks.  Like  most  Northern  People,  he  cannot 
take  on  or  get  up  to  the  central  question  which  lies  at  the  bottom  of 
our  fortunes,  and  will  one  day  demand  an  answer  from  those  in  power; 
too  feeble  I fear  to  give  a solution.  He  sees  much,  by  virtue  of  his 
extensive  travels ; but  has  much  to  learn.  Alas ! like  his  Country- 
men, much  that  he  can  or  will  never  learn,  till  fiercer  forces  than 
arguments  take  the  field.  The  older  I grow,  and  the  more  I investi- 
gate, the  more  I am  impressed  with  the  utter  inability  of  the  great 
mass  of  men  to  grasp  those  issues  which  lie  at  the  foundation  of 
Human  Life  and  forecast  its  future.  “ My  son,”  said  the  wise  and 
venerable  Father,  the  first  thing  that  will  strike  you  on  coming  to 
the  responsibilities  of  high  Official  place,  is  the  little  wisdom  with 
which  the  World  is  governed.” 

Mr.  Roberts  has  been  to  and  through  our  Region.  Before  the 
War,  he  was  a dealer  in  Wheat  and  Flour  iu_  New  York  City,  and 
knew  our  friends  Welsh  and  Legg,  and  handled  their  Winchester 
Steam-Mill  Flour,  which  stood  at  the  head  of  the  market.  He  said, 
one  year  of  his  dealings  with  them,  he  advised  them  to  buy  Wheat 
largely,  feeling  sure  from  the  data  he  could  gather,  Wheat  and  Flour 
would  go  up  to  high  rates.  They  took  his  advice,  and  that  year  he 
turned  over  to  them  of  profits,  sixty-five  thousand  dollars. 

I am  penning  these  lines  with  difficulty,  under  both  the  pitching 
and  rolling  of  the  Ship.  Almost  everybody  is  hors  du  combat.  I am 
writing  in  the  Saloon,  alone,  save  Mr.  Roberts,  who  is  lying  down  ; 
the  other  passengers  are  scattered,  most  of  them  to  their  beds.  I have 
trouble  in  very  slowly  putting  down  these  lines,  and  the  waves  are 


STEAMSHIP  WEBBA— ATLANTIC  OCEAN. 


521 


continually  dashing  themselves  against  the  Ports  with  heavy  thugs, 
through  which  I can  see  them  chasing  each  other  like  coursers — the 
huge  bulk  of  our  Steamer  forcing  itself  through,  and  dashing  them 
in  billows  over  its  lofty  Decks.  Being  quite  comfortable,  the  scene 
is  very  grand. 

This  condition  of  the  elements  has  come  gradually.  At  first  the 
Sea  was  smooth  as  glass,  and  only  capped  with  light  flecks  of  white, 
and  you  could  play  marbles  upon  the  Deck  boards.  By  degrees,  the 
winds  and  waves  have  risen,  and  in  the  contest,  growing  more  angry 
every  hour,  they  have  brought  themselves  almost  into  the  condition 
of  a storm.  I hope  they  will  settle  their  quarrel  before  it  reaches 
that. 

But  they  have  already  become  so  rude  and  disagreeable  that  I 
must  stop. 

On  Same  Steamer, 

Thursday,  Friday,  and  Saturday,  Aihgust  7,  8,  and  9,  1890. 

The  weather  has  continued  unpleasant.  The  Sun  has  sulkily  hid 
himself  behind  clouds,  and  the  winds  never  vaulting  into  a storm, 
have  yet  stirred  around  lustily,  rocking  the  Ship  impolitely  and  warn- 
ing us  to  be  careful  of  our  steps  and  doings.  On  Friday,  by  way  of 
variety,  the  rain  came  along  and  shed  itself  upon  us — sometimes  in 
sheets,  sometimes  in  mist  and  fog,  hiding  the  distant  horizon.  Few 
Ships,  one  or  two  of  Sail,  appeared,  and  you  might  have  supposed 
you  were  voyaging  over  the  Sahara  of  the  Ocean,  instead  of  the  great- 
est water  thoroughfare  of  the  World.  I amuse  myself  in  reading, 
and  talking  to  my  Friend  Mr.  Roberts ; now  and  then  picking  up, 
without  meaning  it,  new  acquaintances. 

We  have  made  various  distances  since  we  left  Southampton — from 
three  hundred  and  fifty-seven  to  three  hundred  and  ninety-six  miles 
daily,  depending  on  the  waves  and  weather ; the  latter  we  made  to- 
day— Saturday.  Our  direction  from  Southampton  was  at  first  rather 
Southwest;  then  due  West  yesterday,  and  to-day  Southwest  again, 
avoiding  the  Banks  of  New  Foundland,  and  seeking  New  York,  our 
destination,  by  an  almost  straight  line. 

Our  Captain’s  name  is  Pohle,  a German,  florid  and  weather-beaten, 
who,  I understand,  speaks  but  little  English,  and  whose  companion- 
ship I,  therefore,  do  not  seek,  rather  avoid.  He  has  in  addition  to 
his  rubicund  fagade  a portly  Bay-window,  the  frescoeing  and  building 


522 


LETTER  NO.  SO. 


of  which  must. have  been  a great  expense  and  the  labor  of  some  years. 
They  may  both  carry  much  merit,  and  I doubt  not  do  ; I am  perfectly 
willing  to  trust  them. 

My  Friend  introduced  me  to  Mrs.  Bottsford  and  her  young  Daugh- 
ter, a girl  of  thirteen  or  fourteen,  fi’om  Chicago,  who  have  been  upon 
a short  run  to  England.  I had  much  pleasant  talk  with  them  about 
their  trip,  and  about  the  pushing  City  where  they  live.  They  tell  me 
the  Census  recently  taken  shows  its  size  to  be  more  than  a million  of 
people — the  second  City  in  the  United  States — and  growing  rapidly. 
Mr.  Roberts  says,  that  New  York,  with  its  outlying  cities  and  towns,  in 
effect  its  suburbs,  in  a few  years  will  rival  London  in  population,  and 
claim  like  London  to  be  a “Nation  ” — with  five  millions  of  people. 

I have  met  with  a Mr.  Cole,  from  Brooklyn,  returning  from  a 
foreign  tour,  in  company  with  his  wife  and  niece.  He  is  a pleasant, 
intelligent  man,  and  we  have  had  much  talk ; and  last  night.  Dr. 
W.  F.  Grebe,  a German,  who  practices  Medicine  in  Richmond,  Va., 
introduced  himself  to  me.  He  has  been  to  Heidelberg,  his  native 
place,  and  is  now  upon  his  return.  He  told  me  much  about  Rich- 
mond and  its  people  and  doings  ; how  it  had  and  is  improving.  He 
did  not  know  me  personally  in  Richmond,  but  knew  all  about  me  and 
my  Administration,  and  thought,  in  view  of  the  progress  of  events  and 
their  present  state,  what  a misfortune  it  was  the  Commonwealth  had 
not  followed  my  advice. 

With  such  a number  of  Germans  aboard,  we  have  plenty  of  Music. 
A Brass  Band  entertains  us  daily  at  Dinner,  and  in  the  Evening 
some  one  performs  upon  the  Piano,  while  others  sing ; helping,  thus, 
to  while  the  hours  of  those  whom  the  Sea  makes  weary.  But  I have 
no  complaints ; the  days  rapidly  come  and  go,  and  1 am  satisfied. 

Whilst  I write,  promise  of  brighter  skies  prevail,  and  I hope  it 
will  grow,  till  our  entrance  into  New  York  Harbor  will  be  clear  and 
clean. 

On  Same  Steamer, 

Sunday  and  Monday,  August  10  and  11,  1890. 

The  weather  somewhat  brightened  on  Sunday.  Yet  not  enough  to 
bring  the  sick  ones  bravely  out.  Our  Voyage  has  been  singular.  We 
have  had  no  storm ; but  sufficient  roughness  has  prevailed  to  keep 
many  constantly  on  the  sick  list.  Not  more  than  half  our  number 
have  any  day  appeared  at  their  meals  in  the  Saloon.  Afraid  to  ven- 


STEAMSHIP  WEBBA— ATLANTIC  OCEAN. 


523 


ture,  when  able  to  leave  their  Rooms,  they  take  their  meals  on  Deck. 
The  Sim  has  given  us  only  glimpses  of  his  countenance ; hid  by  mist 
and  thin  veils  of  clouds. 

My  resolution  to  make  no  acquaintances  has  not  been  carried  out. 
The  great  courtesy  and  kindness  of  the  passengers  have  quite  broken 
it  down,  and  now  I know  them  all,  male  and  female.  We  meet  and 
speak  and  talk,  and  they  knowing  who  I am,  soon  make  themselves 
known  to  me.  Most  of  them  are  Germans  or  of  German  descent,  and 
some  English,  living  in  the  United  States — in  St.  Louis,  Chicago, 
Cincinnati,  Utah,  New  York,  Brooklyn,  Boston,  and  other  places. 
Two  middle-aged  Ladies  are  from  Boston ; one  of  them  a Doctor  of 
Medicine.  The  latter  and  I have  had  a good  deal  of  conversation. 
She  is  intelligent  and  well-informed  and  travelled,  and  withal  not 
obtrusive,  like  strong-minded  women  ax'e  wont  to  be.  Her  name  is 
Dr.  Morton.  One  young  man  from  England,  by  the  name  of  Smart, 
is  on  his  way  to  Scranton  to  take  charge  of  a Hotel.  ■ He  has  been 
there  before,  and  knows  Judge  Handley,  who,  he  says,  is  a man  of 
great  wealth,  and  stands  high  among  the  people  of  that  City,  being 
liberal  and  public-spirited.  But  I will  not  take  the  time  or  bother 
you  with  the  names  of  many  others,  whose  talk  would  not  interest 
you  or  justify  me  in  the  repeating. 

Approaching  now  the  Continent,  ships  of  Sail  and  Steam  increase 
in  number  upon  the  bosom  of  the  dreary  Ocean — going  out  or  gather- 
ing to  their  Haven.  I sit  on  Deck  and  watch  them,  and  send  my 
thoughts  beyond  them  homeward,  faster  far  than  they  can  speed. 

I have  spent  much  time  in  reading ; among  the  Books,  “ A Noble 
Life,”  by  Miss  Mulock,  author  of  “ John  Halifax,  Gentleman,” — I 
think  she  is  now  Mrs.  Craik.  It  is  an  excellent  story  in  its  way,  and 
in  her  way,  full  of  pathetic  touches,  and  at  the  same  time  sensible  and 
often  wise.  I am  glad  to  find  that  I can  still  read  a Novel,  and  enjoy 
it.  Whilst  in  that  form,  there  is  a pitiable  waste  of  time  and  talent, 
or  something  worse ; there  are,  also,  gathered  some  of  the  finest  prod- 
ucts of  Genius  and  Learning.  I would  not  like  to  feel  that  I had 
become  so  old  and  staid,  that  I could  never  be  touched  again  by  Books 
which,  in  my  younger  days,  charmed  me  like  an  inspiration.  How 
is  it  with  your  venerable  self? 

About  dark  on  Sunday  a Vessel  came  in  sight  before  us  and  gave 
the  Pilot’s  signal.  The  Captain  stopped  our  Steamer;  awaiting  the 
Pilot’s  advent  in  a small  row  boat,  he  climbed  aboard.  We  were 


524 


LETTER  NO.  SO. 


then  four  hundred  miles  from  New  York.  I expressed  surprise  that 
he  should  come  so  far  to  meet  the  incoming  Vessels ; but  was  told 
they  came  sometimes  six  or  eight  hundi'ed.  The  competition  is  great, 
and  probably  four  or  five  more  Pilots  were  on  this  Boat,  which  would 
continue  out  and  thus  dispose  of  themselves  to  the  Steamers  when 
they  one  after  another  hove  in  sight.  This  Pilot,  like  nearly  all  I 
have  ever  seen  in  every  part  of  the  World,  is  a bronzed,  hale  and 
hearty  fellow,  grown  strong  and  healthy  with  the  fresh  salt  water, 
and  constant  hardships  of  his  life. 

Monday  has  been  the  finest  day  of  our  Voyage:  the  atmosphere, 
the  Sky,  the  Sea  were  all  bright  and  beautiful,  and  we  speeded  hope- 
fully landward.  Before  the  night  came,  we  had  sighted  the  Eastern 
point  of  Long  Island,  and  at  considerable  distance  moved  along  the 
parallel  of  its  shore,  marked  by  Light  Houses  here  and  there.  When 
the  night  had  fully  come,  we  saw  the  Lights  of  Long  Beach,  and 
then  Rockaway ; and  then  Manhattan  Beach  and  Brighton  and  Coney 
Island  opened  out  upon  the  shore,  with  reaches  of  Electric  Brilliancy. 
At  ten  o’clock  or  thereabouts  we  cast  anchor  some  distance  off  Staten 
Island,  to  await  the  morning.  The  scene  was  wonderfully  fine — the 
Lamps  in  and  around  the  City  gleaming  like  Stars ; the  Station  for 
Coney  Island  on  our  right,  built  for  show,  resembling  a Pyramid  of 
many-colored  burners ; before  us,  on  one  side,  the  Statue  of  Liberty, 
with  its  flaming  torch  aloft;  on  the  other,  the  magnificent  Brooklyn 
Bridge,  threaded  with  Electricity,  spanning  the  River,  an  arch  ablaze 
with  light. 

Then  I went  to  bed,  to  await  the  coming  of  the  morning. 

On  Same  Steamer,  and  New  York  City, 

Astor  House, 

Tuesday,  August  12,  1890. 

We  Breakfasted  at  six  o’clock  on  the  Steamer,  and  soon  thereafter 
were  under  way : — the  Health  and  Customs  Officers  having  come 
aboard,  the  one  to  look  after  the  hygiene  of  our  bodies,  the  other  the 
character  and  value  of  the  property  we  wex’e  about  to  take  ashore. 

I was  out  by  daylight  to  enjoy  the  scene,  which  I ever  delight  to 
do,  when  I leave  or  enter  this  splendid  Harbor — I think,  without  a 
rival  on  the  Earth,  save  that  of  Rio.  And  I was  repaid  for  my  early 
rising.  I saw  the  Sun  come  forth  royally  from  his  bed  of  purple  and 


STEAMSHIP  WERRA—NEW  YORK. 


525 


gold ; on  every  hand,  on  Sea  and  Land,  abounded  the  evidences  of 
the  material  forces  and  products  of  our  Civilization;  the  Fortifica- 
tions and  Gun  Boats  which  guarded  the  entrance ; the  Ships  which 
linked  its  Commerce  with  the  farthest  corners  of  the  World;  the 
habitations  on  the  shore,  which  spoke  of  untold  wealth,  in  its  multi- 
tudinous applications. 

Whilst  moving  in,  I parted  with  my  host  of  new-made  friends — 
now  soon  to  scatter,  never  to  meet  again.  What  numerous  collections 
and  dispersions  I have  had  upon  my  travels  ! My  Friend,  the  Lady 
Doctor,  and  her  companion — Dr.  Ellen  Morton,  and  Miss  Elizabeth 
Howard  Bartol — came  to  bid  me  Good  Bye  ! and  give  me  their  cards, 
and  express  the  pleasure  my  company  had  afforded  them,  and  invite 
me  to  their  homes  when  I came  to  Boston.  They  have  been  spending 
a year  in  Paris — the  former  studying  Medicine,  the  latter  Art.  Miss 
Bartol  bears  an  ancient  name — one  of  the  F.  F.  B.’s ; her  Father  is 
a prominent  Physician,  and,  she  said,  she  knew  he  would  take  much 
pleasure  in  meeting  and  talking  with  me.  Dr.  Morton  has  a fine, 
good  face,  and  intelligent,  and  has  not  those  silly,  philanthropic, 
fanatic  views  which  make  strong-minded  women  not  pleasant  to  come 
in  contact  with.  If  she  has  them,  she  has  the  happy  knack  of  keeping 
them  out  of  view  of  one,  who  with  them  has  no  patience.  And  thus 
I parted,  too,  with  Mr.  Roberts  and  Mrs.  Bottsford  and  my  numerous 
other  Friends. 

The  Customs  Officer  took  my  Declaration,  and  put  upon  our  Silver 
pieces  the  gentle  tax  of  forty-five  per  cent.  And  then  I went  ashore, 
and  the  Officers  upon  the  Wharf  passed  my  baggage  with  the  courtesy 
and  politeness  I have  scarce  ever  failed  to  meet  with.  Ttiere  is  much 
complaint  often  of  their  rudeness.  Is  the  treatment  tendered  me, 
owing  to  my  own  mild-mannered  ways? 

We  landed  on  the  Hoboken  side.  I took  a Carriage  and,  with  my 
traps,  crossed  the  River  and  drove  to  this  old  Hotel,  my  stopping 
place,  you  know,  for  many  years.  Coming  in  upon  the  Steamer,  cool 
breezes  met  us  from  the  Land,  and  I was  happy  to  know,  that  the 
hot  wave,  which  the  Pilot  told  us  when  he  came  aboard  prevailed  last 
week,  has  gone.  The  weather  now  is  cool  and  pleasant. 

When  I had  taken  my  Room,  I telegraphed  to  Margaret  and  Tay- 
lor of  my  safe  arrival,  and  told  them  I would  be  in  Charlestown  on 
Thursday  Evening,  and  go  on  to  Winchester  on  Friday;  and,  also, 
wrote  them  both  to  that  effect. 


526 


LETTER  NO.  SO. 


In  the  afternoon  I went  to  Liggitts’,  my  Book  man,  and  spent 
several  hours  among  his  Books,  and  bought  some  to  take  home  to 
put  among  those  that  have,  lo  ! these  many  years,  been,  like  the  Ven- 
erable Abbot’s  portraits  on  the  wall,  my  abiding,  faithful  friends,  and 
have  ever  welcomed  my  coming  with  pei’ennially  smiling  faces. 

I thought  of  going  to  Coney  Island  in  the  Evening ; but,  upon 
reflection,  inasmuch  as  I have  been  there,  I deemed  it  wiser  and  better 
to  let  its  memories  stand,  and  “ lay  me  down  to  sleep.” 

New  York  City,  Astor  House, 

Wednesday,  Augihst  13,  1890. 

I busied  myself  this  Morning  in  settling  with  my  Bankers,  Brown 
Brothers  & Co.,  and  thus  closing  up  the  last  financial  matters  con- 
nected with  my  Tour.  I found  awaiting  me  thei'e  a Letter  from 
Taylor,  telling  me  of  the  safe  arrival  of  Letter  No.  19,  showing,  I 
was  happy  to  know,  that  all  of  this  long  Journey  have  to  this  safely 
come  to  hand,  however  many  of  yours  to  me  have  wandered — who 
knows  whither?  He  was,  doubtless,  surprised  to  receive  my  Tele- 
gram yesterday ; thinking  I was  in  the  heart  of  Europe,  looking  at 
the  Passion  Play  in  Ober-Ammergau. 

When  I had  finished  with  my  Bankers,  I wandered  through  the 
off-streets,  the  day  being  pleasant,  and  along  the  water  and  among  the 
Markets,  and  was  surprised  everywhere  to  see  the  growth  of  this  fast- 
growing City.  On  every  hand.  Buildings  of  immense  size  and  cost 
are  going  up,  and  the  tide  of  Business  is  swelling  more  and  more. 
Who  can  tell  what  New  York  will  be  in  Fifty  Years?  Absorbing 
Brooklyn,  Jersey  City,  and  the  outlying  towns,  it  may  justly  claim 
London’s  soubriquet  of  “ Nation.”  It  now,  with  these,  I hear,  would 
number  three  millions  of  inhabitants.  I think  when  I passed  through, 
at  the  beginning  of  this  Tour,  I wrote  you  how  it  was  increasing  in 
the  number  and  proportions  and  elegance  of  the  Hotels  at  the  upper 
end ; and  still  they  cry  for  more — the  volume  of  travel  grows  with 
the  Hotel  enlargement.  This,  though  too  low  down  for  the  taste 
of  the  average  tourist  and  traveller,  is,  I am  informed,  always  full. 
Certainly  it  is  so  now. 

If  there  had  been  an  Actor  of  note  in  town,  I would  have  gone  to 
hear  him.  But  the  Boards  are  empty,  and  the  Theatres  are  closed, 
or  simply  surviving  with  the  lightest,  frothiest  kind  of  doings.  I 


NEW  TORE  CITY. 


527 


have,  therefore,  nothing,  as  usual  on  my  visits  here,  of  the  Dramatic 
to  talk  to  you  about,  nor,  indeed,  of  anything  in  Gotham  worth  your 
hearing, 

I,  therefore,  bring  this,  the  last  Letter  of  the  series,  to  an  end — in 
the  place  where  it  began.  I trust  they  have  been  as  interesting  and 
entertaining  to  you  all  as  the  facts  and  the  experiences  they  recite 
have  been  to  me. 

When  you  have  read,  be  kind  enough  to  forward  it  to  Margaret 
or  Taylor ; or  what  is  better  far,  bring  with  it  your  own  good  self. 
Then  we  will  talk  in  the  Old  Home  about  the  things  I have  seen  and 
done;  or  we  will  go  out  to  the  Farm,  and  from  its  Hills  will  over- 
look a Country,  than  which  my  travels  have  shown  me  none  richer 
or  more  beautiful — bounded  by  Mountains  under  whose  shadows  you 
breathed  your  natal  air,  and  which  we  both  have  known  and  loved 
for  well-nigh  the  length  of  man’s  allotted  span.  Come,  then, — right 
away ! 

Taylor  in  his  Letter  tells  me  Cousin  Mary  has  ceased  her  troubles, 
and  is  at  rest.  She  died  a few  days  ago.  How  greatly  I shall  miss 
my  visits  to  her,  and  our  pleasant  talks  ! She  was  always  bright, 
and  the  fate  that  she  knew  was  slowly  creeping  on  her,  never  seemed 
to  terrify;  an  example  to  us  all  of  quiet,  patient  suffering  and  hope. 
One  by  one  our  oldest  friends  are  passing,  and  the  trees  around  us  are 
growing  very  thin.  She  read  the  Stories  of  my  Travels  with  great 
delight,  and  ever  found  in  them  something  to  lighten  the  pain  and 
sorrow  she  was  decreed  to  bear.  I will  write  to  Sue  before  I leave 
the  City,  that  it  may  hurry  to  her  in  advance  of  my  own  arrival. 

And  now  I will  stop,  welding  this,  the  last  Link,  into  the  Chain, 
with  which,  God  lifting  up  the  Light  of  His  Countenance  upon  me, 
I have  been  enabled,  a second  time,  to  girdle  the  Earth. 

With  tenderest  love  for  all, 

F. 


ITINERARY. 


1889. 

November  28. 

December  2-10. 

“ 10. 

“ 11-31. 


1890. 


Miles. 


Winchester  to  New  York 300 

New  York  to  Aspinwall 1970 

Aspinwall  to  Panama  (Kail) 48 


Panama  to  San  Francisco,  viz. : Panama  to  La  Libertad, 

788;  La  Libertad  to  San  Jos4,  93;  San  Jos4  to 
Champerico,  76 ; Champerico  to  Acapulco,  485; 
Acapulco  to  Mansanillo,  297 ; Mansanillo  to  San 
Bias,  197  ; San  Bias  to  Mazatlan,  121 ; Mazatlan  to 
San  Francisco,  1347  miles.  Total  from  Panama 
to  San  Francisco 3404 


January  15  to  Feb.  5.  San  Francisco  to  Auckland,  viz. : January  15-22,  to 
Honolulu,  Hawaiian  Islands,  2100 ; Do.  23-29, 
Honolulu  to  Tutuila,  Samoan  Islands,  2100 ; Do. 

29  to  Feb.  5,  Tutuila  to  Auckland,  1850  miles. 

Total  from  San  Francisco  to  Auckland 6050 

February  7-15.  Auckland,  New  Zealand,  to  Napier,  viz. : Auckland  to 
O.vford,  by  Kail,  134 ; Feb.  8,  Oxford  to  Ohine- 
mutu,  32  miles,  by  Stage  ; Ohinemutu  to  Whakare- 
warewa  and  back,  5;  Feb.  9,  Ohinemutu  to  Ti'ke- 
teri  and  return,  by  Boat  and  Stage,  22;  Feb.  10, 
Ohinemutu  to  Waiotapu  Valley  and  back,  by  Stage 
and  walk,  45  miles ; Feb.  11,  Ohinemutu  to  Waira- 
kei  by  Stage,  52  miles;  Feb.  12,  Wairakei  to 
Tausso  by  Do.,  6 miles ; Feb.  14,  Tausso  to  Tara- 
wera,  50  miles;  Feb.  15,  Tarawera  to  Napier,  32. 


Total  from  Auckland  to  Napier 398 

17.  Napier  to  Wellington,  viz. : Napier  to  Woodville,  by 
Rail,  96 ; Woodville  to  Palmerston,  by  Stage,  17 ; 
Palmerston  to  Wellington,  by  Rail,  87  miles. 

Total  from  Napier  to  Wellington 200 

18-19.  Wellington  to  Littleton,  by  Steamer 175 

19.  Littleton  to  Christchurch,  by  Rail 8 


24-26.  Christchurch  to  Mount  Cook,  viz. ; Feb.  24,  Christ- 
church to  Timaru,  100  miles,  by  Rail ; Timaru  to 
Fairlie,  39  miles,  by  Rail ; Feb.  25,  Fairlie  to 
Pukaki,  56  miles,  by  Stage ; Feb.  26,  Pukaki  to 
Mount  Cook,  40  miles.  Total  from  Christchurch 
to  Mount  Cook 


34 


529 


235 


530 


1890. 


ITINERARY. 


Miles. 


March 


April 


" 3-8.  Mount  Cook  to  Queenstown,  viz. : March  3,  Mount 
Cook  to  Pukaki,  40  miles,  by  Stage;  March  4, 
Pukaki  to  Lindis  Hotel,  via  Omarama,  by  Special 
Buggy,  60  miles ; March  5,  Lindis  Hotel  to  Pem- 
broke, Lake  Wanaka,  by  Do.,  30  miles;  March  6, 
up  Lake  Wanaka  and  back,  by  Steamboat,  30 
miles;  March  7,  to  Lake  Hawea  and  back,  in 
Buggy,  20  miles ; March  8,  Pembroke,  Lake 
Wanaka,  via  Cardrona  and  Arrowtown,  to  Queens- 
town, by  Coach,  47  miles.  Total  from  Mount 

Cook  to  Queenstown 227 

10-12.  Queenstown  to  Dunedin,  viz. : March  10,  Queenstown 
to  Glenorchy,  at  head  of  Lake  Wakatipu,  and 
back  to  Queenstown,  by  Steamer  (35 -(-35),  70 
miles;  same  day,  Queenstown  to  Kingston,  on 
same  Lake,  by  same  Steamer,  25  miles ; March  11, 
Kingston  to  Dunedin,  by  Kail,  170  miles.  Total, 

Queenstown  to  Dunedin 230 

20-24.  Dunedin  to  Hobart,  Tasmania,  viz.:  March  20-21, 
Dunedin  to  Bluff,  by  S.  S.  Mararoa,  130  miles; 

March  21,  Bluff  to  Invercargill  and  return,  by 
Kail  (17  -)-  17),  34  miles;  March  21-24,  Bluff  to 
Hobart,  by  same  Steamer,  920  miles.  Total,  Dune- 
din to  Hobart 1084 

24-25.  In  Hobart,  viz.:  Ride  by  Carriage  to  head  of  Water 
Supply  and  return  (5-|-5),  10  miles;  March  25, 
to  Kew  Norfolk,  by  Steamer  up  the  Derwent 
River,  25  miles,  and  back  by  Rail,  25  miles  (25-(- 
25),  50  miles;  same  day,  in  afternoon,  ride  by 
Carriage  about  Hobart,  6 miles.  Total,  in  and 


about  Hobart 66 

26.  Hobart  to  Launceston,  Tasmania,  by  Rail 133 

27-28.  Launceston  to  Melbourne,  Australia,  by  Steamer 277 


3-7.  Melbourne  to  Gippsland  Lakes  and  back,  viz.:  April 
3,  Melbourne  to  Sale,  by  Rail,  127  miles;  Sale, 
down  Latrobe  River,  Steamer,  11  miles ; Lake 
Wellington,  11  miles;  McClennan  River,  10  miles; 
Lake  Victoria,  19  miles;  Black  Lake,  8 miles;  to 
Lakes’  Entrance,  11  miles — total  from  Sale,  70 
miles;  April  5,  trip  from  Merrangbaur  Hotel  to 
Nowa  Nowa  Missionary  Station,  on  Lake  Tyers, 
by  Coach  and  Boat,  and  return,  about  16  miles ; 
April  6,  Lakes’  Entrance  to  Lake  King,  8 miles ; 
across  Lake  King  to  mouth  of  Mitchell  River,  10 
miles ; up  Mitchell  River  to  Bairnsdale,  10  miles, 
all  by  Steamer — total  from  Lakes’  Entrance,  28 
miles;  April  7,  Bairnsdale  to  Melbourne,  171  miles, 
by  Rail.  Total  from  Melbourne  to  Gippsland 
Lakes  and  back 


412 


ITINERARY. 


1890. 


April 


8. 

9-10. 


13. 


16-17. 

19. 


•20-24. 


April  27  to  May  19. 


May  -20-24. 

“ 24-28. 


May  29  to  June  7. 


531 

Miles. 


Melbourne  to  Ballarat,  direct,  74  miles  by  Bail ; return 

via  Geelong,  100  miles,  by  Do.  Total 174 

Melbourne  to  Sydney,  by  Bail,  viz. : Melbourne  to 
Albury,  190  miles ; Albury  to  Sydney,  386  miles. 

Total,  Melbourne  to  Sydney 576 

Out  of  Sydney,  viz. : Sydney  to  Parramatta  Landing, 


by  Steamer,  15  miles ; from  Do.  to  Parramatta 
City,  by  Steam  Tram,  3 miles ; from  Do.  to  Syd- 
ney, by  Bail,  14  miles ; from  Do.  to  Botany  Bay, 


by  Bail,  6 miles  and  back,  12.  Total  for  day 44 

Sydney  to  Bathurst  and  back  (145-}- 145). 290 


Sydney,  up  the  Ilawkesbury  Biver,  viz. : to  Brooklyn, 
Hawkesbury  or  Peale’s  Ferry,  by  Bail,  36  miles; 
up  Biver  to  Sackville  Beach,  52  miles ; SackviUe 
Beach  to  Windsor,  by  Coach,  10  miles;  Windsor 


to  Sydney,  by  Bail,  36  miles.  Total 134 

Sydney  to  Brisbane,  by  Bail,  and  back,  viz. ; Sydney 
to  Wallangarra,  on  border  of  New  South  Wales, 
and  Queensland,  490  miles ; Wallangarra  to  Bris- 
bane, 232  miles,  and  return  via  both 1444 

Sydney  to  Mahe,  one  of  the  Seychelles,  on  board  S.  S. 
Australien,  French  Line,  viz. : April  27-28,  Syd- 
ney to  Melbourne,  576  miles;  April  30-May  1, 


Melbourne  to  Adelaide,  480  miles ; May  2-5,  Ade- 
laide to  Albany,  King  George  Sound,  1025  miles; 
May  6-19,  Albany  to  Mah4,  3922  miles.  Total, 


Sydney  to  Mah4 6003 

Extra  distances  travelled  from  Sydney  to  Mah4,  to 

avoid  currents  of  wind  and  waves  in  Indian  Ocean.  148 
Mahe  to  Mauritius,  viz.:  May  20-23,  Mahe  to  Isle  Be- 
union  or  Bourbon,  985  miles ; May  23-24,  Bourbon 

to  Mauritius  135.  Total,  Mahe  to  Mauritius 1120 

Tours  in  Mauritius,  viz. : Port  Louis  to  Curepipe,  by 


Bail,  16  miles;  May  25,  by  Carriage  from  Port 
Louis  to  Pamplemouses  Gardens  and  return 
(7-f-7  ),  14  miles;  May  26,  to  Maheburg  and  Souil- 
lac,  and  return  to  Curepipe — viz. : to  Maheburgh, 
by  Bail,  20  miles,  and  thence  back  to  Eosebelle 
Junction,  11  miles;  thence  to  Souillac,  11  miles; 
thence  back  to  Curepipe,  20  miles,  total,  62  miles; 

May  27,  Curepipe  to  Port  Louis,  by  Bail,  16 
miles;  May  28,  Port  Louis  to  Flacq,  by  Bail, 
and  return  (22  -(-  22),  44  miles.  Total,  tours  in 

Island 122 

Port  Louis  to  D’ Urban,  Natal,  by  Steamer,  viz.:  May 
29-31,  Port  Louis  to  Tamatave,  Madagascar,  475 
miles ; June  2,  Tamatave  to  Mananjara,  Mada- 
gascar, 203  miles ; June  2 to  June  4,  Mananjara 
to  Cape  St.  Mary,  Madagascar,  369  miles;  June 


532 


1890. 


ITINERARY. 


Miles. 


4 to  June  7,  Cape  St.  Mary  to  Natal  (D’Urban), 

788  miles.  Total,  from  Port  Louis,  Mauritius,  to 

D’Urban,  Natal 1835 

June  10-16.  Tours  in  Natal,  viz.:  D’Urban  to  Pietermaritzburg,  by 

Rail,  70J  miles;  June  11,  Pietermaritzburg  to  visit 
a Kraal,  by  Carriage,  and  return  (6  -f-  6),  12  miles ; 

June  12,  Pietermaritzburg  to  Ladysmith,  by  Rail, 

119  miles;  June  13,  Ladysmith  to  D’Urban,  by 
Rail,  189J  miles;  June  14,  D’Urban  to  Verulam, 
by  Rail,  and  return  (20  + 20),  40  miles;  D’Urban, 
ride  into  the  Country  by  Carriage,  about  8 miles. 


Total  of  tours  in  Natal 4302 

“ 16-17.  D’Urban  to  Port  Elizabeth,  Cape  Colony,  viz.:  D’Ur- 

ban to  East  London,  by  Steamer,  260  miles;  June 
17,  East  London  to  Port  Elizabeth,  by  Do.,  135 

miles.  Total,  D’Urban  to  Port  Elizabeth 395 

“ 19.  Port  Elizabeth  to  Uitenhage  and  return  (20  + 20),  by 

Rail 40 

“ 20-21.  Port  Elizabeth  to  Grahamstown  and  return  (106  + 

106),  by  Rail 212 

“ 23-24.  Port  Elizabeth  to  Kimberley,  by  Rail 485 

“ 30.  Kimberley  to  Fourteen  Streams  and  back  (47^ +47^), 

by  Rail 95 

July  1-2.  Kimberly  to  Cape  Town,  by  Rail 647 

“ 6.  Cape  Town,  round  through  the  Kloof,  and  along  Sea 

Point,  by  Carriage 10 

“ 7.  Cape  Town  to  False  Bay  and  return  (17  + 17),  by  Rail.  34 


9-28.  Cape  Town  to  Southampton,  viz.:  Cape  Town  to  Cape 
Verde,  3601  miles;  Cape  Verde  to  Teneriffe,  819 
mites ; Teneriffe  to  Madeira,  255  miles ; Madeira 
to  Southampton,  1332  miles.  Total,  Cape  Town 


to  Southampton 6007 

28.  Southampton  to  London,  by  Rail 79 

31.  London  to  Southampton,  by  Rail 79 


August  1.  Trip  from  Southampton  to  New  Forest  and  Bourne- 

mouth, viz.:  Southampton  to  Lyndhurst  Road 
Station,  by  Rail,  11  miles  ; same  Station,  through 
North  portion  of  the  Forest,  by  Carriage,  20  miles ; 
same  Station  to  Beaulieu  Abbey,  9 miles,  by  Car- 
riage ; Beaulieu  Abbey  to  Brockenhurst,  by  Car- 


riage, 6 mites;  Brockenhurst  to  Bournemouth,  by 
Rail,  15  miles ; Bournemouth  to  Southampton,  by 

Rail,  30  miles.  Total  of  round 91 

2.  Southampton  to  Netley  Abbey  and  back  (3  + 3) 6 

3-12.  Southampton  to  New  York  City 3100 

13.  New  York  City  to  Winchester,  stopping  over  in 

Charlestown 300 


Total  number  of  miles  of  Tour 39,1 17J 


INDEX 


A. 

Angelas,  the,  of  Millet,  6,  8. 

Aloe,  13. 

Antilles,  the,  14,  25. 

Aspinwall,  15,  16. 

Anglo-Saxons,  21,  28,  372,  406,  518. 
Acajutla,  27. 

Agua,  Mount,  27. 

Acatenango,  Mount,  27. 

Acapulco,  30  et  seg.,  32,  33,  34. 

Andrews,  Colonel,  54. 

Auckland,  55,  63,  68,  87,  92,  116,  120, 
126  et  seg.,  160,  211. 

Alameda,  S.  S.,  84  et  seg.,  1 54,  297. 
Australia,  87,  120,  182,  187,  192,  204, 
206,  215,  233  et  seg.,  251,  254,  258, 
267,  295,  305,  319  et  seg.,  452. 

Allandt,  Mr.,  104. 

Antipodes,  the,  118. 

Araby  the  Blest,  120. 

Apia,  122,  123. 

Ateamuri,  146. 

Auerbach’s  Kellar,  149. 

Alleghany  Mountains,  152,  284. 

Avon  Kiver,  164. 

Andes,  the,  167. 

Alps,  Southern,  168,  190. 

Ashburton,  the  River,  171. 

Alps,  the,  173,  180. 

Avalanch,  the,  176. 

Aretes,  181. 

Albert  Town,  190,  193. 

Arrow  Town,  190,  193,  196. 

Arrow  River,  196. 

Albatross,  223,  224,  313,  316,  328,  330, 
332,  379. 


Ancient  Mariner,  224,  328. 

Astoria,  233. 

Ashburner,  Mr.  and  Mrs.,  252,  253,  257. 
Adelaide,  126,  259,  296,  313,  314,  315, 
320. 

Albury,  271,  272. 

Australien,  S.  Ship,  273,  281,  296,  305 
et  seg.,  311,  326  et  seg.,  347,  480. 
Adder,  the,  275. 

Athens,  279. 

Appalachian  Mountains,  284. 
Agricultural  Fair,  285. 

Artesian  Wells,  200,  324. 

Australian  Bight,  316. 

Albany,  318. 

Australasia,  321. 

Atherstone,  Dr.,  329. 

Amirante  Islands,  347,  348,  350. 

Abbott,  Dr.,  347,  349,  350,  351. 

Africa,  348,  349,  350,  351,  375,  384,  385, 
406. 

Anjnan  Island,  348. 

Aldebra  Island,  350,  356. 

Abelard  and  Heloise,  356. 

Achilles’  Shield,  365. 

Aleutian  Isles,  373. 

Atoll,  374. 

Antannanarivo,  374  et  seg. 

Atlantis,  375. 

Alsace,  380. 

America,  South,  385. 

Adder,  Puff,  386. 

Assegai,  386,  400. 

Algoa  Bay,  389,  408,  412,  417. 

Arkansas  Major,  389. 

Aberdeen,  394. 

Ants,  399,  415,  421. 


533 


534  INDEX. 


Aryan,  401. 

Angora  Goats,  413. 

Atherstone,  Dr.,  416,  463. 

Archimedes’  Lever,  420. 

Albemarle  County,  422. 
jEneas,  436. 

Athenian,  S.  Ship,  478  et  seq. 

Albinos,  483. 

African  Bight,  487. 

Amazon  River,  489. 

Azores,  the  Islands,  495. 

Atlantis,  495. 

Aldershot,  501. 

Aquarium,  the,  London,  508. 

Anton  or  Test  River,  516. 

B. 

Baltimore,  2. 

Brown  Brotliers  & Co.,  2,  450,  499,  507, 
526. 

Bullay,  Mr.,  Agent  P.  M.  S.  S.  Co.,  3,  7. 
Booth,  Mr.  Edwin,  3,  4. 

Barye,  Artist,  8. 

Backus,  Mr.,  10,  18. 

Bahamas,  11,  13. 

Buffalo  Bill,  18. 

Barbadoes,  25. 

Balsam  Coast,  26. 

Beaver,  Governor,  30. 

Benjamin,  Captain,  33,  46. 

Blackburn,  Mrs.,  48,  236. 

Brown,  B.  F.,  50,  68. 

Beatty,  Judge,  67. 

Baldwin,  Stuart,  70,  71. 

Baldwin,  Joe,  86. 

Brown,  Hon.  Godfrey,  88. 

Boobies,  93,  125. 

Bell,  John  N.,  93,  235. 

Bishop,  Mr.,  95  et  seq. 

Bishop,  Mrs.,  Funeral  of,  97  et  seq.,  115. 
Barker,  Miss,  116. 

Birds,  93,  118,  119,  125,  256,  326,  330, 
349,  379,  390,  400,  411,  455,  489,  497. 
Bowson  Birds,  118. 

Black,  William,  the  Novelist,  124. 
Bungalow,  143. 

Bainbridge,  145. 


Bush,  152,  153,  218,  250,  251,  283,  288, 
291. 

Bounetts,  Mr.,  150  et  seq.,  154,  156,  158, 
159,  160  et  seq.,  168,  170. 

Belfast,  165. 

Birthday,  my,  169. 

Balaklava,  175. 

Ball,  Mount,  175. 

Borland,  Mr.,  176,  184. 

Bell-Bird,  the,  177,  179,  192,  256. 

Blue  Bottle  Fly,  177. 

Bird  Charmer,  179. 

Boss,  Mr.,  180. 

Billy,  a,  183. 

Barry,  Driver,  185,  186,  188,  190,  191, 
195,  199. 

Bunch  Grass,  185. 

Bridge,  Chain  or  Basket,  186. 

Ben  Lomond,  New  Zealand,  198. 
Brisbane,  199,  202,  289,  291,  292. 

Blake,  Mr.,  R.  R.  Agent,  199. 

Bethune,  Mr.,  217. 

Bluff,  218  et  seq.,  281. 

Banks,  the,  219,  289,  323. 

Bridgewater,  225,  228. 

Botany  Bay,  231,  319. 

Bass  Strait,  232. 

Baker,  Camillus,  235. 

Boomerang,  245,  255,  257,  258,  400. 
Bulmer,  Mr.,  Missionary,  252,  254,  256. 
Bandicoot,  256. 

Bairnsdale,  257,  258,  259. 

Ballarat,  259,  260,  263,  264. 

Bacchus’  Marsh,  260. 

Bungaru,  260. 

Burns,  Robert,  264. 

Black  Snake,  275. 

Boat  Racing,' 277. 

Botany  Bay,  278,  310. 

Bathurst,  285  et  seq. 

Blue  Mountains,  283,  284,  287,  291,  312. 
Bourke,  284. 

Broken  Bay,  288,  304. 

Ben  Lomond,  Australia,  291. 

Booms,  249,  265,  295,  322,  385,  431,  482, 
506. 

Booth,  Mr.  and  Wife,  297,  306. 
Beauregard,  General,  3.34. 


INDEX. 


535 


Bourbon  Island,  347,  350  et  seq. 

Bicycle,  349. 

Boone,  Daniel,  350. 

Bahna,  304. 

Bernardine  de  St.  Pierre,  356. 
Buitenzorg,  358. 

Bamboo  Mountains,  359. 

Bullock,  Indian,  361,  389,  397. 

Boston,  376. 

Betsimasavakas,  377. 

Boulanger,  380. 

Boreas,  382. 

Banana,  392. 

Buffalo  Grass,  398. 

Buzzards,  400. 

Boers,  the,  404,  405,  406,  415,  435,  481. 
Betz,  Mr.  and  Mrs.,  407,  409,  411,  414, 
424,  461,  479. 

Basuto  Land,  415. 

Bucks  or  Boks,  various  species,  419,  455. 
Bush  Bok,  419,  435. 

Blaaw  or  Blue  Bok,  419. 

Buster,  James,  420. 

Bushmen,  420,  423,  482,  483,  484. 
Bultfontein  Mine,  427,  430. 

Beaconsfield  (Town),  430,  431. 

Beaufort,  West,  448. 

Brown,  Shipley  & Co.,  298,  312,  450,  456, 
464,  498,  499,  504. 

Blair  School  Bill,  457,  488. 

Baker,  Mrs.  William  B.,  464. 
Bainbridge,  Captain,  479  et  seq.,  480,  502. 
Bartholomew  Diaz,  481. 

Barberton,  482. 

Bantus,  the,  483. 

Brazil,  493. 

Bliimlein,  Mr.,  496. 

Blanco,  Cape,  497. 

Bouverie,  Mr.  E.  P.,  498,  505. 

Bewley  or  Beaulieu  Abbey,  500,  514. 
Bennock,  Mr.  Francis,  505. 

Buckingham  Palace,  509. 

Bournemouth,  511,  514,  515. 
Boldrewood,  513. 

Buccleugh,  Duke  of,  514. 

Brockenhurst,  514. 

Brighton,  514. 

Bottsford,  Mrs.,  522,  525. 


Brighton  Beach,  524. 

Brooklyn  Bridge,  524. 

Bartol,  Miss  Elizabeth  Howard,  523,  525. 

c. 

City  of  Para,  Steamer,  3,  7 et  seq.,  18. 
Central  Park,  H.  Y.,  4. 

Crebs,  Hummer,  6. 

Crebs,  Gaunt,  6. 

Colon,  11  et  seq.,  17. 

Castle  Island,  13. 

Cuba,  14,  349,  352. 

Catholic  Priests,  14  et  seq.,  26,  27. 
Columbus,  17,  23. 

Costa  Eica,  21,  23. 

Central  America,  22  et  seq. 

Corinto,  24. 

Champerico,  29. 

Colima,  35. 

Christmas  Day,  39  et  seq. 

California,  Gulf  of,  39,  260,  321. 
California,  Lower,  42. 

Colnett,  Cape,  42. 

California,  43  et  seq.,  196,  428,  449,  468  et 
seq.,  483. 

Crittenden,  John  J.,  55. 

Coleman,  Colonel  and  Mrs.,  57,  59,  67. 
Coit,  Mrs.,  57. 

Crocker,  Mr.,  59. 

Colton,  Mr.,  59. 

Cliff  House,  63,  64. 

Chinese,  85,  163,  190,  197,  211,  229,  304, 
351,  355,  358,  360,  365,  373. 

Cornwall,  Mr.  and  Mrs.,  114. 

Circus  Company,  117  et  seq.,  125. 

Cyclone  in  Samoan  Islands,  122. 

Cook,  Samuel,  125. 

Corcoran  Gallery,  128. 

Cape  Town,  154,  216,  223,  235,  279,  298, 
313,  329,  336,  383,  387,  405,  449,  450 
et  seq.,  479. 

Cliff  Builders,  156. 

Cook,  Captain,  159,  177,  319,  274,  278. 
Christchurch,  161  et  seq. 

Canterbury,  162  etseq.,  168, 171,  299,  300. 
Connolly,  Mr.,  Consul,  164. 

Cokey,  Mr.,  164. 


536 


INDEX. 


Campbell,  Mr.,  I65,  218,  240,  242,  243, 
245,  249. 

Cook,  Mount,  170  et  seq.,  172,  173,  180, 
185,  190,  203,  256. 

Chamois,  176. 

Couloirs,  181. 

Crampton,  Benny,  185. 

Clutha  Kiver,  186,  190,  193,  195,  203. 
Caxton,  Pisistratus,  193. 

Cromwell,  195. 

Cardrona  River,  195. 

Cardrona  Town,  196. 

Colorado,  196. 

Coal,  197,  483. 

Chicago,  205. 

Cape  Colonies,  215,  337,  339,  385,  405. 
Christopher  North,  217. 

Cape  Pigeon,  223. 

Crawford,  Mr.,  224. 

Cauthorn,  Mr.,  228. 

Columbia  River,  233. 

Carter,  My  Horse,  235. 

Cleveland,  President,  240. 

Cherry  Tree,  252. 

Cedar,  253. 

Chicago,  259. 

Checks  for  Baggage,  271. 

Cablegram  to  Taylor,  280. 

Carson,  Lake,  284. 

Ceylon,  290,  357. 

Carrington,  Lord,  305,  307. 

Caledonia,  New,  306. 

Cannibals,  317,  335. 

Cape  York,  31 9. 

Cocoanut  Trees,  338,  346,  350,  374. 
Curieuse  Island,  346. 

Coco-de-Mer,  346,  355. 

Cocoanut,  Double,  the,  346,  355. 

Coral  Islands,  346,  350,  360,  361,  364, 
374. 

Creoles,  347,  355. 

Comoro  Islands,  348,  349,  350,  378. 
Cosmo  Ledo  Island,  350. 

Chagos  Archipelago,  350. 

Cooleys,  351,  353,  358,  360,  386,  392,  401, 
484. 

Castle  Line  S.  S.,  354. 

Curepipe,  354,  357,  358,  359,  362. 


Caspian  Sea,  355. 

Corps  du  Garde,  357. 

Calcutta,  358. 

Cork,  373. 

Campbell,  Mr.,  Consul,  376. 
Cyclones,  383. 

Cobra  Snake,  386. 

Crane,  Golden-Crested,  390. 

Club,  Mahori,  400. 

Cactus,  the  Tree;  401,  416. 

Currency  of  the  Cape  Colonies,  403. 
Chaka,  405,  406,  484. 

Constantia  Wine,  419,  461. 
Chartreuse,  419. 

Clip  Springer  Bok,  419. 

Cradock,  420. 

Columbia,  the  River,  435. 

Camp’s  Bay  Hotel,  460. 

Cape  of  Good  Hope,  461. 

Carter,  Mrs.,  463. 

Capricorn,  486. 

Chameleon,  487. 

Congo  River,  488,  489. 

Clay,  Henry,  491. 

Cape  de  Verde,  492,  493. 

Cape  Verde  Islands,  493. 

Canaries  (Islands),  494,  495. 

Cancer,  Tropic  Line,  494. 

Cowes,  500,  518. 

Charing  Cross  Hotel,  501. 

Cook,  Thomas  & Sons,  504. 

Covent  Garden,  508. 

Christchurch  Hospital,  508. 

Canute,  the  Dane,  510. 

Charles  1,  511. 

Copley,  513. 

Chamberlain,  Mr.,  516. 

Cistercian  Order,  516. 

Christian,  Prince,  518. 

Craik,  Mrs.  (Miss  Mulock),  523. 
Coney  Island,  524,  526. 

D. 

Delaney,  Hal.,  11. 

Dow,  Captain  John,  16. 

De  Lesseps,  17. 

Davis,  Jefferson,  47. 


INDEX. 


537 


Dandridge,  Phil.,  66. 

Deady,  Judge,  77  et  seq.,  88,  89,  91,  92,  94, 
104,  107  et  seq. 

Damien,  Father,  94. 

Dillingham,  Mr.  B.  F.,  95. 

Dogs,  167. 

Dunedin,  172, 184,  200,  201  et  seq.,  to  216, 
261. 

Ducks,  Paradise,  187. 

De  Quincey,  217. 

Derwent  Kiver,  227. 

Diffenderfer,  John  and  Kim,  270. 
Darling  River,  284. 

Darling  Downs,  291. 

Didier,  Captain,  334. 

“ Dixie,”  334. 

Davis,  Napoleon,  349. 

Detached  Islands,  350. 

Denis,  St.,  351. 

Donald  Currie  S.  S.  Line,  354. 

Dunrobin  Castle  S.  S.,  354,  362,  266,  373, 
384,  385,  387,  456. 

D’Urban,  354, 383, 384,  391, 399, 400, 402, 
409,  457. 

Dauphin,  Fort,  379. 

Dark  Continent,  384. 

Dervish,  396. 

Drakenberg  Mts.,  398,  400. 

Delagoa  Bay,  406,  432. 

Dingaan,  406. 

Diamonds,  409,  422,  425,  426,  427,  429, 
432,  436  et  seq.,  464  el  seq. 

Doncan,  Lady,  411. 

Duiker  Bok,  419. 

De  Aar,  422. 

Dudley,  Countess  of,  423. 

De  Beers  Diamond  Mine,  424,  425,  427, 
432. 

Du  Toitspan  Mine,  427,  430. 

Dalton,  Mr.,  429,  434. 

Dalles,  the,  435. 

Dido,  436. 

Devil’s  Peak,  455,  461,  479. 

Deer,  419,  455. 

Damara  Land,  484. 

Dolphins,  493. 

Dodge,  Mittie  and  Anson,  507. 

Drury  Lane,  508. 


E. 

English,  the,  21,  482,  483,  484,  512. 
Equatorial,  the.  Line,  118,  347,  348,  382, 
494. 

Eden,  Mount,  130,  136. 

English  Sparrow,  152. 

English  A’oung  Men,  150  et  seq. 

Esk  River,  153,  154. 

Eucalyptus,  171,  194,  226,  249,  252,  272, 
283,  291,  296,  361,  415. 

Edelweiss,  the,  180. 

Earnslaw,  Mount,  200. 

England,  202,  209,  378,  493,  499  et  seq. 
Exposition  (Dunedin),  204. 

Elephant,  241,  435. 

Emu  Plains,  283,  287. 

Elia,  Gentle,  294. 

Edinburgh,  Duke  of,  304. 

Easter  Island,  321. 

Engages,  349. 

Elsinore,  356.  • 

Elizabeth,  383,  401,  406,  412. 

East  London,  406. 

Eugenie,  Empress,  418. 

Eland,  419. 

Electric  Lights,  435. 

Eve,  Mother,  436. 

Egyptians,  436. 

Eagle’s  Nest,  500,  514. 

Edward  III.,  510. 

Exe  River,  514. 

Edinburgh,  Duke  and  Dutchess,  516  et 
seq. 

F. 

Federal  Patronage,  2. 

Fortune  Island,  12,  13. 

Fonseca,  Gulf,  25. 

Fuego,  Mount,  27. 

Farrallone  Islands,  45,  64. 

Font,  Rev.  Mr.,  57,  61. 

Flood,  Mrs.  and  Miss,  58,  59. 

Field,  Judge,  66. 

Fair,  Ex-Senator,  67. 

Friedlander,  Mrs.,  75. 

Felton,  Judge,  87. 

Plying  Fish,  118,  119,  332,  333,  489. 


538 


INDEX. 


Farquhar,  Captain,  123. 

Fern,  the  New  Zealand,  138,  143,  158. 
Freeman,  Mr.  and  Mrs.,  139  et  seq.,  143 
et  seq.,  146,  149. 

Fijian  Islands,  141. 

Feather  Mantle,  151,  152. 

Freezing  Establishment,  165  et  seq. 
Furze,  171. 

Fail-lie,  173,  184. 

Folgefond  Glacier,  175. 

Freeman,  young  Mr.,  199,  202,  208,  214. 
Foveaux  Straits,  21 9. 

Frigate  Bird,  224. 

Franklin,  Sir  John,  228. 

Farming,  234. 

Fuller,  Dr.,  235. 

Fox,  Flying,  256. 

Fitzroy,  Sir  John  and  Lady,  278. 
Florida,  288. 

Firth,  Miss,  297. 

Fletcher,  Mr.,  312,  314,  509. 

Fiji,  317,  321. 

Fairbridge,  Mr.,  329. 

Farquhar  Island,  350. 

Fray.ser,  Mr.,  .354,  355. 

Forest  Side,  357. 

Flacq,  361,  363. 

French,  372,  380. 

Filanjanas,  375. 

Fat  Boy  in  Pickwick,  395. 

Feather  Market,  410. 

Fourteen  Streams,  435. 

Fuziyama,  Mount,  454. 

Fourth  of  July,  458,  479. 

False  Bay,  461,  462.  ■> 

Fisher,  Mr.,  486. 

Fortunate  Islands,  495. 

Funchal,  495,  496,  497. 

Five  Dials,  508. 

Fountains  Abbey,  516. 

G. 

Gillen,  Mr.,  2. 

Griffith,  Mr.,  10. 

German  People,  21,  28,  29. 

Guatamala,  25,  27,  28. 

Gerick4,  Mr.,  35,  46,  56,  63. 


Guano  Rocks,  37. 

Grizzly  Peak  Mountain,  43. 

Gleasius,  Mount,  43. 

Green,  Judge  Claiborne,  46. 

Gwin,  Senator,  57. 

Golden  Gate  Park,  64,  66. 

Gray,  Sir  George,  66, 127  et  seq.,  455,  458, 
462. 

Garfield,  President,  66. 

Grippe,  the,  71,  74,  87,  92  116. 

Golden  Gate,  87,  119. 

Geysers,  the,  of  New  Zealand,  139  et  seq., 
143. 

Graham,  Mrs.,  147. 

Guyaquil,  159. 

Gorse,  171. 

Glaciers,  175,  176,  181,  191. 

Green,  Rev.  Mr.,  180. 

Gibb,  John  (Landscape  Artist),  185. 
Gold  Digging,  189,  190,  192,  196,  197, 
198,  260,  261,  263,  321,  385,  409,  429, 
436  et  seq.,  468  et  seq. 

Gulls,  190. 

Gledden,  Dr.Waitland,  191, 195, 199,  200. 
Gladstone,  195. 

Greymouth,  197. 

Glenorchy,  200. 

Gore,  203. 

George,  Henry,  214,  236  et  seq. 

Gibson,  Mr.,  217,  224,  433. 

Georgetown,  232. 

Gordon,  General,  239. 

Gippsland,  248  et  seq.,  259,  292,  319. 
Gulf  Stream,  257. 

Geelong,  259,  264. 

Glaize,  John  Will,  259. 

Geography,  272. 

Griffin,  Mr.  Gilderoy  W.,  Consul,  273, 
279,  280,  289,  297,  306,  307. 
Gettysburg,  Battle  of,  282. 

Glasson,  Mr.,  285. 

Grose  River,  287. 

Griffin,  Virgiline,  307. 

Glenelg,  313. 

Grahamstown,  329,  412  et  seq.,  435. 
Grand  Port,  360. 

Goulden,  Mr.,  376,  385. 

George,  Mr.,  417. 


INDEX. 


539 


Gry  Bok,  419. 

Gun  Bok,  419. 

Griqua  Land,  423,  435,  482. 

Gray,  Bishop  Eobert,  459. 

Good  Hope,  Cape  of,  461. 

Garnets,  464  et  seq. 

Gladstone,  482. 

Great  Fish  Eiver,  484. 

Gulf  of  Guinea,  489. 

Gambia  Eiver,  493. 

Goree  Eiver,  493. 

Gordon,  General,  494,  501. 

Gibraltar,  497. 

Guinness,  Colonel,  505. 

Grebe,  Dr.  W.  F.,  522. 

H. 

Hotel,  New,  in  Winchester,  2. 

Hamlet,  3. 

Hall,  Dr.  John,  4. 

Home  Missions,  5. 

Hayti,  14. 

Honduras,  25. 

Huntingdon,  C.  P.,  28. 

Helmics,  Captain  and  Mrs.,  33,  35,  46. 
Howard,  W.  C.,  52. 

Hunter,  Eobert  W.,  54. 

Hopkins,  Mrs.,  59. 

Halleck,  General,  66. 

Haymond,  young,  68,  71,  73,  74. 
Hawaiian  Islands,  87,  88,  89,  94,  104  et 
seq.,  112,  151,  215,  352,  357,  377,  393, 
406. 

Hoodlums,  90. 

Honolulu,  93  et  seq.,  114,  115,  117,  119, 
120,  213,  273. 

Heleakela,  Mount,  114. 

Hauraki  Gulf,  127,  130. 

Hinemoa,  141. 

Hero  and  Leander,  141. 

Huka  Falls,  148. 

Horace,  156. 

Henry,  Thomas,  172,  176,  183. 
Hochstetter,  Mount,  173,  175. 

Hooker,  Mount,  175,  180. 

Hermitage,  the  (Mount  Cook),  175,  et 
seq.,  183. 


Huddleston,  Mr.  (Mount  Cook),  176,  177, 
178,  183. 

Honey  Bee,  the,  177. 

House  Fly,  the,  177. 

Hooker  Glacier,  175,  180. 

Hobart,  184,  203,  219,  225,  281,  320. 
Hawks,  187. 

Howard,  Mrs.,  188,  189. 

Hawea  Lake,  190,  193,  194. 

Hedditch,  Captain,  191,  192. 

Hampton,  Eev.  Mr.  and  Wife,  191,  192, 
195. 

Hayes,  Lake,  196. 

Hauthorn,  Hedges,  197,  249. 

Hector  Mountains,  201. 

Hyams,  Mr.,  205. 

Halliday,  Mr.,  211  et  seq.,  214,  215,  217, 
225,  226,  227,  228,  240,  241. 

Harding,  Mi\,  218,  281. 

Hammerfest,  218. 

Horsfall,  Mr.,  228,  229,  232,  233. 
Hubbell,  Mr.,  265. 

Humboldt,  Lake,  284. 

Hawkesbury  Eiver,  287,  304,  310. 

High  Fields,  291. 

Harrison,  President,  311. 

Hobson’s  Bay,  311. 

Heloise  and  Abelard,  356. 

Hamlet  and  Ophelia,  356. 

Hamilton,  366,  372. 

Hurricanes,  367. 

Hovas,  the,  377. 

Hottentots,  the,  411,  414,  415,  416,  420, 
422,  423,  481,  483,  484. 

Heinecke,  Mr.,  417. 

Hartbeeste  Bok,  419. 

Hex  Eiver,  449. 

Hollis,  George  F.,  Consul,  457,  458, 
479. 

Hausa  Hotel,  461. 

Helena,  St.,  Island,  488. 

Hurst’s  Castle,  500. 

Handley,  Judge,  506,  522. 

Hooe,  John,  507. 

Hogarth,  508. 

Henry  V.,  510. 

Hastings,  514. 

Hoboken,  525. 


540 


INDEX. 


• I. 

Izalko,  Mount,  27. 

Interviewers,  50. 

Iowa,  117. 

Invercargill,  218. 

Ingalls,  Senator,  248. 

Iron  Bark,  252. 

India,  290,  304,  353,  355,  358,  360,  372, 
386,  401. 

Investigator  Strait,  316. 

Indian  Ocean,  350,  382. 

Itchen  Eiver,  516. 

J. 

Jamaica,  11. 

■Jolmson,  Captain,  16  e<  seq.,  20,  30,  34,  51, 
66,  70,  73. 

Java,  26,  256,  355,  357. 

Jones,  Winfield  S.,  54  et  seq.,  57,  59,  61, 
62,  68,  75,  76,  84. 

Jones,  W.  Brooks,  54,  67. 

Jilson,  Mrs.,  117  et  seq.,  128,  130,  133. 
Joshua’s,  130. 

Jardine,  Mr.,  156,  165. 

Jarvis,  Governor  and  Mrs.,  158. 

Jeffrey,  217. 

Jackass  Bird,  256,  315. 

Jesuit,  Father  Moore,  276. 

Jenolan  Caves,  284. 

Jersey,  Lord,  307. 

Johnston,  General,  334. 

Johanna  Island,  348. 

Jenkins,  Mr.,  417. 

Jerusalem,  438. 

Jubilee  Singers,  463. 

Joubert,  General,  479. 

Joliannesburg,  482. 

Jack  the  Kipper,  508. 

K. 

King’s  Daughters,  1. 

Key,  Francis  S.,  66. 

Kalakaua,  King,  Hawaiian  Islands,  112, 
113. 

Kansas,  116,  117. 


Kawau  Island,  127. 

Kauri  Gum,  127  et  seq. 

Kiwi  Bird,  151. 

Korimako,  the,  177. 

Kea,  the,  178,  179. 

Kaka,  the  179. 

Kauffman,  Mr.,  180. 

Kingston,  200,  201,  202,  203. 

Kinloch,  200. 

Kanaka,  215. 

Kangaroo,  256. 

King,  Lake,  257,  258. 

Kansas  City,  259. 

Kellar,  Auerbach’s,  294. 

Kennedy,  Mr.,  297,  306. 

Kintore,  Earl  of,  316. 

King  George’s  Sound,  296,  318,  339. 
King  Point,  318. 

Kilimanjaro,  349. 

Kandy,  359. 

Kamehameha,  377,  405. 

Kafirs,  384,  386,  388,  390,  393,  394,  401, 
404,  411,  414,  416,  420,  421,  422,  426, 
428,  430,  432,  481,  483,  484,  488. 
Kraals,  389,  392,  394,  395,  398,  401,  421. 
Kafir  Corn,  397. 

Kafir  aria,  405. 

Kimberley,  409,  419,  422  et  seq.,  424,  427, 
428,  447. 

Koodoo  (Bok),  419. 

Koohinoor  Diamond,  424. 

Kenilworth,  428. 

Karroo,  Great  Desert,  448. 

Kloof,  the,  460. 

Kalk  Bay,  462. 

Kalahari  Desert,  483. 

Kei  River,  484. 

Kroos,  the,  492. 

L. 

Lockwood,  Captain,  8,  15,  16,  18. 

La  Libertad,  24,  26. 

Laughery,  Robert  W.,  Consul,  33. 

Lloyd,  Mr.,  41,  43. 

Los  Angeles,  43,  94. 

Lucas,  Judge  Dan,  47. 

Lewis,  Daingerfield,  48. 


INDEX. 


541 


Leigh,  J.  Wickham,  51,  53,  54,  62. 
Langtry,  Mr.  J.  H.,  59,  70,  86. 

Li  Hung  Chang,  65,  113. 

Lick,  James,  66. 

Latham,  Senator,  66. 

Leander  and  Hero,  141. 

Leipsic,  149. 

Lark,  English,  154. 

Littleton,  162,  168. 

Llamas,  167. 

Lombardy  Poplar,  171,  173,  194. 

Linnet  (Hew  Zealand),  177,  179. 

Lindis  Pass,  188. 

Lizards,  194,  488. 

Lumsden,  203. 

Lempriere,  Dr.  and  Mrs.,  218,  225. 
Launceston,  229,  230. 

Louisville,  Ky.,  235. 

Lee,  Cassius,  236. 

Lesesne,  Mr.  James  P.,  Consul,  240. 
Latrobe  River,  250,  258. 

Lakes’  Entrance,  250,  257. 

Lyre  Bird,  250,  256. 

Laughing  Jackass  Bird,  256. 

Lake  King,  257,  258. 

La  Perouse,  278. 

Lachlan  River,  284. 

Liverpool  Range,  291. 

Liverpool  Plains,  291. 

Lamb,  Charles,  294. 

Leipsic,  294. 

Lestenberger,  Mr.,  312,  314,  330. 

Lofty,  Mount,  314,  315. 

Layard,  Mr.  E.  C.,  316  et  seq.,  328,  329, 
331,  332,  333,  334,  335,  336,  339,  340, 
416,  455,  463,  507. 

Layard,  Mr.  (Nineveh),  317,  507. 

Lee,  General  Robert  E.,  334. 

Lava,  351. 

Louis,  Port,  353. 

Lace-leaf  Plant,  356. 

Land  Tortoises,  346,  350,  356. 

Lagune,  374. 

Lemur,  375. 

Lemuria,  375,  495. 

Lamba,  376. 

Lorraine,  380. 

Linnets  (Africa),  393. 


Ladysmith,  398,  399,  400. 

Lamer,  Captain,  410. 

Lions,  435. 

Lion’s  Head  Mountain,  456,  460,  479. 
Liturgy,  our,  169,  459,  488. 

Lion’s  Rump,  479. 

Leading,  Rev.  Mr.,  488. 

Locksley  Hall,  491. 

Liberia,  491. 

London,  500  et  seq. 

Lubbock,  Sir  John,  505. 

Laurence,  Charles,  510. 

Lyndhurst,  511,  513. 

Leighton,  Sir  F.,  513. 

Lyndhurst  Station,  513. 

Legg  and  Welsh,  520. 

Long  Beach,  524. 

Liggitts’  Bookstore,  526. 

M. 

Mason,  Dr.,  1. 

Modjeska,  3. 

Materialism,  5. 

McCord,  Mr.,  10. 

Moon,  the,  12,  13,  15. 

May  si.  Cape,  14. 

Mariato  Point,  21. 

Mexico,  29,  30,  34. 

McElheny,  Miss  and  Brother,  33. 
Mansanillo,  34,  351. 

Mazatlan,  37,  38. 

Mosby,  Colonel,  50  et  seq. 

McKinney,  Governor,  52,  72,  74. 

Morse,  Captain,  55  et  seq.,  87,  92,  116, 
118,  297. 

Madden,  Mr.,  59. 

Maury,  Commodore  Jefferson,  60  et  seq., 
62,  66,  68,  70,  75,  89. 

Maynard,  Colonel  J.  C.,  68. 

Mixed  Schools  and  Colleges,  Male  and 
Female,  72,  247,  282. 

Menlo  Park,  73. 

Minneapolis,  89. 

Malfroy,  Mr.  C.,  91  et  seq.,  116,  121,  127 
128  et  seq.,  139,  146,  197. 

Molokai  Island,  94. 

McFarlane,  Mr.,  104  et  seq.,  112,  113. 


542 


INDEX. 


Melbourne,  119,  125, 128  et  seq.,  172,  203, 
228,  233  et  seq.,  259,  264,  265  et  seq., 
268,  309,  311. 

Marx,  Mr.,  i21. 

Mahoris,  123,  141,  146,  151,  159,  167, 
177,  320. 

Manukou,  130. 

Manikou,  136. 

Mitchell,  Mr.,  137. 

Mahori  Pah,  139. 

Mokoia,  141. 

Mannering,  Sir  Philip  and  Lady,  142  et 
seq.,  147,  151,  240. 

Mahori  War  Club,  146. 

Mobs  of  Sheep,  147,  152. 

Maecenas,  156. 

Meat- Freezing  Establishment,  157. 
Manawatu  Gorge,  159. 

Matson,  Mr.,  166. 

Moa,  the,  167. 

Mount  Cook,  170  et  seq.,  172  et  seq.,  173, 
180,  183,  185,  190,  256. 

Matterhorn,  the,  174,  180. 

Miiller,  Mount,  175,  176,  180. 

Muir  Glacier,  175. 

Moraines,  175,  176,  181. 

Makomako,  the,  177. 

Mosquito,  the,  178. 

Moka,  the,  179,  192. 

Mackelwraith,  Sir  Thomas,  181, 182, 183, 
203,  205,  208,  210,  213,  214,  215,  219, 
225,  241. 

Mein,  Charles  Stuart,  182,  292. 

Mesas,  190,  194. 

Manuka,  192,  218. 

Mossgiel,  203. 

Most,  Herr,  214. 

Mararoa,  S.  S.,  215,  216. 

Minneapolis,  217. 

Magellan,  Straits  of,  223. 

McClennan  River,  250,  253. 

Marsh  Hen,  250. 

Merrangbaur,  250,  257. 

Mitchell  River,  257,  258. 

Max  Meadows,  260. 

Moliagul,  261. 

Moore,  Tom,  264. 

Mexico,  City  of,  265. 


Murray  River,  271,  284. 

Messageries  Maritimes  Line,  273,  296, 
353. 

Marseilles,  273. 

Moore,  Father,  276. 

Murrumbidgee  River,  284. 

Macintyre  River,  284. 

Mississippi  River,  284. 

Maitland,  291. 

Murrurundi,  291. 

Mah4,  Island  of,  296,  299,  319,  328,  331, 
332,  335,  336,  337,  340,  350,  351,  509. 
Madagascar,  Island  of,  296,  348, 350,  355, 
373,  378,  379,  485. 

Mauritius,  296,  328,  331,  332,  337,  338, 
352  et  seq.,  365,  368  et  seq. 
Mohammedans,  304,  348,  372. 

Meem,  Hugh,  310. 

Marseilles,  312,  335,  336. 

Morepork  Bird,  315. 

Malaysia,  321. 

Moluccas,  321. 

Malay  Race,  321,  351,  355,  360,  375,  377. 
Melanesia,  321. 

Mikronesia,  321. 

Macawber,  Mr.,  323. 

“ My  Maryland,”  334. 

Mansell,  Miss,  342  et  seq. 

McDonald,  Mr.,  346. 

Mulattoes,  347,  351. 

Mozambique  Channel,  348,  381. 

Mohilla  Island,  348. 

Mayotta  Island,  348. 

Mascarenas  Islands,  352. 

Maheburg,  357,  358,  360,  361. 

Mapou,  363. 

Missionaries,  373,  377,  378,  379,  380,  381, 
385,  485. 

Malagasses,  376,  377. 

Marie,  Saint,  Island,  378. 

Mananjara,  378. 

Mary,  St.,  Cape,  379. 

Monsoon,  382. 

Mealies,  392. 

Mexican,  the  S.  S.,  404,  480. 

Mole  Hills,  416. 

Mimosa,  the,  416. 

Moss,  416. 


INDEX. 


543 


Mamba  Snake,  419. 

Modder  Eiver,  422. 

Matabeleland,  435  et  seq.,  484. 
Masbonaland,  435  et  seq.,  442  et  seq. 
Mauch,  Mr.,  436  et  seq. 

Maund,  Mr.,  439  et  seq. 

Majuba  Hill,  440. 

Minstrels,  Negro,  459,  479. 

Manikos  Country,  484. 

Madeira  Islands,  495  et  seq. 

Morocco,  497. 

Montagu,  Lord,  500,  514. 

Monitor  Ship,  a,  500. 

Mayflower,  the,  511. 

Minstead,  512. 

Mark  Ash,  513. 

Margate,  514. 

Morton,  Mrs.  Dr.,  523. 

Mulock,  Miss  (Mrs.  Craik),  523. 
Manhattan  Beach,  524. 

N. 

New  York  City,  1,  522,  524,  526. 

Neill,  Mr.,  10. 

Negro,  11,  248,  304,  347,  349,  351,  355, 
358,  360,  365,  375,  376,  386,  396,  404, 
411,  426,  432,  459,  463,  479,  484,  491, 
493. 

Nicaragua,  24. 

Nelson,  Mrs.,  45,  47,  464. 

Nilson,  Horace,  54. 

New  Zealand,  63,  65,  73,  76,  91,  92,  116, 
119,  126  et  seq.,  219  to  222,  273,  320, 
321,  452. 

Navigator’s  Islands,  116. 

New  Philosophy,  the,  117,  331. 

Napier,  143,  153  et  seq.,  156. 

Niagara  Falls,  148. 

Nova  de  Fribourga,  158,  249. 

Nead,  Mr.  and  Mrs.,  168  et  seq.,  170,  216, 
272,  273,  274,  276,  279,  293,  306,  310, 
312,  330,  333,  339,  351,  354,  364,  376, 
391,  395,  401,  402,  410,  413,  424,  429, 
432,  458,  480,  486,  496,  500. 

Norway  Rat,  the,  177. 

Newcastle,  190,  193,  195,  291. 

Nicholl’s  Creek  Falls,  207. 


Natal,  224,  296,  354,  366,  373,  381,  384, 
386,  389,  394,  405,  408,  421,  481,  484. 
Nelson,  Mount,  225. 

New  Norfolk,  228. 

Newcastle,  S.  Ship,  230. 

Nulton,  Fred,  235. 

Norton,  Dr.,  236. 

Nowa  Nowa,  251,  252. 

New  South  Wales,  271  et  seq.,  279,  280, 
291,  320. 

Nepean  Eiver,  283,  287. 

New  England,  291. 

New  Caledonia,  306,  317. 

Numea,  317. 

New  Guinea,  321. 

Nossi  Burra  Island,  378. 

Nossi  B4,  378. 

Napoleon  III.,  380. 

Neptune,  382. 

Newcastle  (Natal),  399. 

Napoleon,  Prince  Imperial,  405. 

New  Mexico,  421. 

Nu  Garieb  River,  422. 

Norrie,  Mr.,  433. 

North  Cape,  454. 

Nautilus,  493. 

Needles,  the,  500,  519. 

Netley  Military  Hospital,  500,  515. 
Netley  Abbey,  500,  515  et  seq. 

New  Forest,  500,  511  et  seq.,  515. 

Nugent,  Mr.,  505. 

New  Foundland  Banks,  521. 

“ Noble  Life,”  a,  523. 

o. 

O’Ferrell,  Colonel,  2. 

Ocean,  the,  13. 

Oahu  Island,  94  et  seq.,  104. 

Orizaba,  122. 

Orlando,  the  Steamship,  131. 

Oxford,  137. 

Ohinemutu,  138,  146. 

Organ  Mountains,  158. 

Opium  Den,  163. 

Ostriches,  166, 167, 410, 411, 412, 417,  421. 
Oorangi  (Mount  Cook),  175. 

1 Ohou  River,  186. 


544 


INDEX. 


Omararaa,  186. 

Oats,  196,  202,  449. 

O’Rourke,  Sir  Maurice,  208, 213,  2i4, 215. 
Oysters,  218. 

Oglebie,  Mr.,  276. 

Oceana,  321. 

Oil  Islands,  350. 

Ophelia  and  Hamlet,  356. 

Oranges,  392. 

Ox- Wagons,  394,  395,  414,  422,  431. 
Orange  River,  398,  422. 

Orange  Free  State,  404,  405,  415,  482. 
Outspanning,  414. 

Ophir,  436  et  seq.,  445  et  seq. 
Ober-Aramergau,  498,  504,  526. 

Osborne,  500,  516. 

P. 

Peru,  10,  322,  421. 

Panama,  12  6<  seq.,  16,  19. 

Priests,  Catholic,  14  el  seq.,  26,  27. 
Panama  Canal,  17,  159. 

Parker,  Captain  W.  H.,  31. 

Ponce  de  Leon  Hotel,  43. 

Pedras  Blancas,  44. 

Political  Economy  and  Philosophy,  49. 
Porter,  Thos.  A.,  51. 

Paris  Bourse,  67. 

Paris  Exposition,  91. 

Preston,  General  John  S.,  92. 
Pango-Pango,  122,  123. 

Polynesians,  123,  167,  317. 

Postal  Union,  129,  234,  280,  299. 

Pah,  Mahori,  139. 

Pohatu,  140,  143. 

Pakehem,  145. 

Pheasant,  New  Zealand,  154. 

Pigeon,  New  Zealand,  154. 

Palmerston,  157,  159.  r 

Parasites,  159. 

Pigs,  167. 

Polo,  Game  of,  168. 

Pukaki,  172  el  seq.,  173,  185. 

Pukaki  Lake  and  River,  174,  190. 
Pak4ha,  the,  177. 

Parrot,  the,  178. 

Partridge,  the,  179. 


Paradise  Ducks,  187. 

Pembroke,  188,  194. 

Pigeon  Island,  192. 

Pisistratus  Caxton,  193. 

Punt,  193. 

Parsons,  Mr.,  199,  202,  208. 

Port  Chalmers,  202,  208,  218. 
Philadelphia,  204. 

Paducah,  229. 

Pulpit  Rock,  233. 

Port  Philip,  233,  259,  313. 

Promised  Land,  258. 

Port  Jackson,  274,  320. 

Parramatta,  and  River,  276  el  seq.,  287, 
304. 

Perouse,  La,  278. 

Plato,  279. 

Port  Darwin,  281. 

Peat’s  Ferry,  287. 

Prize  Fighting,  289. 

Pigeon,  a,  316. 

Princess  Royal  Harbor,  318. 

Possession  Point,  318. 

Perth,  319,  320. 

Phillipines,  321. 

Papuans,  321. 

Polynesia,  321. 

Philanthropists,  the,  321,  385. 

Port  Victoria,  338. 

Praslin  Island,  346. 

Providence  Island,  350. 

Point  du  Galets,  351. 

Piton  de  la  Fournaise,  Mount,  351. 

Peter  Botte,  Mount,  353,  357,  364. 

Pouce,  Mount,  353,  357,  364. 

Port  Louis,  353,  359. 

Pamplemousses,  354,  357,  363. 

Palm  Tree,  356. 

Paul  and  Virginia,  356. 

Pariah,  358. 

Public  School,  363,  488. 

Prune  Island,  373. 

Phaeton,  383. 

Puff  Adder,  386. 

Pietermaritzburg,  391,  393,  396. 

Pulque,  Mexican,  395. 

Port  Elizabeth,  401,  406,  408,  412,  417, 
435. 


INDEX. 


545 


Pretorius,  406. 

Panda,  406. 

Penguin  Eggs,  410. 

Prickly  Pear,  417. 

Port  Wine,  419. 

Pullman  (city),  428. 
Pyramids,  436. 

Portuguese,  438  et  seq. 
Phoenicians,  436  et  seq. 
Pease,  Mr.,  480,  486. 

Pillars  of  Hercules,  495. 
Porto  Santo,  497. 

Philip  II.,  510. 

Pilgrim  Fathers,  511. 
Palmerston,  511. 

Pohle,  Captain,  521. 

Passion  Play,  498,  504,  526. 


Q. 

Quibo  Islands,  21. 

Queenstown,  184,  191, 195,  196,  200. 
QueensclifF,  233. 

Queensland,  290  et  seq.,  291,  320. 

R. 

Eieli,  Mr.,  3. 

Eepublican  Party,  17. 

Kives,  Colonel  Alfred,  17. 

Eeporters,  50. 

Eogers,  Mr.  Arthur,  72. 

Eowley,  Mr.,  121,  127. 

Eed  Clover,  137,  166. 

Eapa,  the,  138. 

Eotorua,  Lake,  138  et  seq.,  141. 

Ehone,  the  Eiver,  147,  150. 

Euapehu,  150. 

Ehodes,  Messrs.,  150  et  seq.,  154,  158, 164. 
Euns,  158,  190,  229. 

Eak'aia,  the  Eiver,  171. 

Eangitata,  the  Eiver,  171. 

Eaven,  the,  179. 

Eabbits,  187,  188, 192, 193,  201,  203,  299, 
300  et  seq.,  322,  324. 

Eussell,  Mrs.,  Hotel,  188. 

Eobbins,  192. 

35 


Eowney,  Sinclair,  199,  201,  202,  207,  217, 
218,  293,  294,  295. 

Eitchie,  Mrs.,  199,  217,  295. 
Eemarkables,  the  Mountains,  201. 
Eutherford,  Mr.,  217,  225. 

Eobertson,  Angus,  218,  225,  226,  229,  241. 
Eobinsons  of  Louisville,  235. 

Eace  Question,  248,  249,  252,  254,  388, 
390,  484,  485. 

Eoadknight,  Mr.,  258. 

Eeuter’s  Telegraph,  274. 

Eyde,  277,  287. 

Eockhampton,  293. 

Eoast  Pig,  294. 

Eio  de  Janeiro,  309,  454,  524. 

Eichmond,  Va.,  311. 

Eio  Grande,  Steamship,  339. 

Eotonde  Island,  346. 

Eeunion  Island,  347,  350  et  seq. 
Eoderiguez  Island,  352. 

Eupee,  358. 

Eipon,  Lord,  358. 

Eosehelle,  360. 

Eogers,  376. 

Eattle  Snake,  386. 

Ehee  Bok,  419. 

Eainbow  on  Table  Mountain,  462. 
Eubens,  508. 

Eembrandt,  508. 

Eichard  Coeur  de  Lion,  510. 

Eamsgate,  514. 

Eoherts,  Mr.  Lewis,  519  et  seq.,  525. 
Eockaway,  524. 

s. 

Starke,  Mr.,  2. 

Syracuse,  New  York,  5. 

Small,  Mrs.  Kate,  6. 

Sargasso  Sea,  11,  493. 

Sisal,  13. 

San  Francisco,  15,  39,  44,  45,  46  et  seq..  49 
et  seq.,  69,  70,  84,  89,  90,  120,  124,  241, 
260. 

Stuart,  Colonel  John,  16  et  seq. 

San  Bias,  Steamer,  16  et  seq.,  18. 

Saint  Leben,  Dr.,  21  et  seq.,  23,  31,  34,  51, 
53. 


INDEX. 


546 

Southern  Cross,  23,  121,  188,  288. 

San  Salvador,  24,  25. 

San  J nan  River,  24. 

Sky  Pilots,  26. 

San  Josg,  27,  28. 

Southgate,  Mr.  and  Mrs.,  33,  35. 

Sherk,  Miss,  33. 

San  Bias,  36. 

Sword  Fish,  37. 

Saint  Lucas,  39,  40. 

San  Diego,  43. 

St.  Augustine,  43. 

San  Gabriel,  Mount,  43. 

San  Antonio,  Mount,  43. 

San  Bernardino,  43. 

San  Pedro,  43. 

Smith,  Miss  Mary,  51. 

State  Debt,  52,  248,  486-7,  498. 

Stanford,  Senator,  59,  64,  73. 

Stock  Exchange,  61,  65,  67. 

Sutro  Park,  63. 

Sutro,  Mr.  Adolph,  63  el  seq.,  64,  65, 
71. 

Seal  Rocks,  64. 

Supreme  Court,  67. 

Selden,  Major  M.  C.,  68. 

Shoe  Factory,  70,  269. 

Sandwich  Islands,  87,  88,  89,  94,  104  ei 
seq.,  112,  151. 

Sydney,  87,  124,  126,  170,  245,  259,  268 
et  seq.,  273,  279,  283,  304,  309,  320, 
339. 

Salvation  Ai’my,  92,  169,  279,  404. 
Severance,  Mr.,  114. 

Samoan  Islands,  116,  119, 122,  142. 
Smyth,  Mr.  and  Mrs.,  116,  121,  125. 
Shelton,  Professor  E.  M.,  116,  292. 
Sawaii,  122. 

Scandinavian,  123. 

Sturrock,  Mr.  and  Mrs.,  125, 128, 130, 131, 
143, 146,  149,  172. 

Sage  Bush,  136,  417. 

Slagle,  Henry,  137. 

Strawberries,  137. 

Shrimpton,  Mrs.  Walter,  138  et  seq. 
Scotch  Thistle,  138,  193. 

Sweet  Briar,  the,  138. 

Scott,  Mr.,  143,  144. 


Sheep,  Mobs  of,  147,  152. 

Scrub,  152,  153. 

Sparrow,  English,  152. 

Sparrow,  New  Zealand,  154. 

Swan,  New  Zealand,  154. 

Sheep,  Auction,  162. 

Sheep-Freezing  Establishment,  165. 
Southern  Alps,  168  et  seq.,  190. 

Sheep  Stations,  173,  174,  185,  187,  190, 
194,  214,  229,  292. 

Sefton,  Mount,  173. 

Sebastopol,  Mount,  175. 

Smith,  Mr.,  176,  184. 

Sand  Flies,  178. 

Selwyn,  Mount,  181. 

Smith,  Asher,  192. 

Squatters,  193,  211,  229,  324. 

St.  Patrick,  194. 

Stukes,  196,  202. 

See  Hoy  (a  Chinaman),  197. 

Shoemaker  in  Queenstown,  197. 

Spear’s  Hotel,  200. 

Southey,  217. 

Smythe,  Mr.,  218,  224. 

Stewart  Island,  218,  219. 

Samson,  223. 

Scotland,  223. 

Smith,  Alexander,  233. 

Schauk,  Captain,  233. 

Shoe  Factory,  234. 

Single  Land  Tax,  236  et  seq. 

Sale,  249,  250,  259. 

Stringy  Bark,  254. 

Spear,  Australian,  256. 

Snapper  Fish,  258. 

Scarborough,  258. 

St.  Louis,  259. 

St.  Joseph,  259. 

Stine,  Henry,  259. 

Suez  Canal,  273. 

Snakes,  Australian,  275. 

Snake,  the  Tiger,  275. 

Snake,  the,  275. 

Socrates,  279. 

Street,  Mrs.,  286. 

Sackville  Reach,  288. 

Sequoia  Gigantea,  292. 

Suez,  297. 


INDEX. 


547 


Smith,  Mrs,,  297,  306. 

St.  Vincent,  Gnlf  of,  313. 

Singapore,  321. 

Sumatra,  321. 

Sharks,  328. 

Suwanee  River,  334. 

Smith,  Sydney,  335. 

Sir  Walter  Scott,  336. 

Seychelles  Islands,  338,  346,  348,  356. 
Sunley,  Mr.,  349,  351,  353. 

Stephens,  Mr.,  349,  448,  449. 

St.  Denis,  351. 

Sand,  George,  351. 

Scott,  Mr.,  354,  355. 

Smithsonian  Institute,  357. 

Souillac,  360,  361, 

Savanne,  361. 

Storms,  367  et  seq. 

Sakalavas,  the,  377. 

St.  Mary,  Cape,  379. 

South  America,  385. 

Smith,  Mr.  (Natal),  394. 

Shakespeare’s  Witches,  396. 

South  African  Republic,  405. 

South  Africa,  406,  415, 420,  421,  427,  461, 
479. 

Skating  Rink,  411. 

Sherry  Wine,  419. 

Spring  Bok,  419. 

Stein  Bok,  419. 

Snow  Bergen  Mountains,  420. 

Storm  Bergen  Mountains,  420. 

Star  of  South  Africa  Diamond,  423. 
Seymour,  Louis  I.,  424,  429, 430, 432,  454, 
464  et  seq. 

Saginaw,  Michigan,  428. 

Saltaire,  428. 

Southampton,  433,  464,  479,  498  et  seq., 
510  et  seq.,  514,  518. 

Sheba,  Queen  of,  436  et  seq.,  484. 
Solomon’s  Mines,  436  et  seq. 

Summer  of  the  World,  451. 

School  Bill,  Blair,  457. 

Simonstown,  462. 

Sofala,  484. 

Stanley,  Henry,  484. 

Saint  Helena,  488. 

Sunset,  490. 


Senegambia,  493. 

Senegal  River,  493. 

Santiago  Island,  493. 

St.  Vincent  Island,  493. 

Soudan,  the,  493. 

Sahara  Desert,  493,  497. 

Solent,  500,  519. 

Seven  Dials,  508. 

St.  Paul’s,  506. 

St.  James  Palace,  509. 

Stoney  Cross,  512. 

Scarborough,  514. 

Spithead,  519. 

T. 

Taylor,  Charles  S.,  7,  42. 

Thorndyke,  Mr.,  10,  18. 

Tod,  Mr.,  10,  11,  18,  33,  35,  36,  43, 
65. 

Tidball,  Cousin  Mary,  16,  48,  70,  71,  93, 
235,  527. 

Todd,  Mrs.,  21. 

Teutons,  21,  28. 

'Propics,  23,  116,  118,  125,  330,  331,  335, 
339,  347,  352,  355,  357,  361,  365,  374, 
378,  401,  480,  486,  490. 

Tehuantepec,  30,  31. 

Tacubaya,  33. 

Thornton,  Judge  James  D.,  50  et  seq.,  52, 
54,  55,  59,  62,  63,  65,  68,  71,  72,  75,  76, 
78,  81,  87,  117. 

Trollope’s  Australia,  53. 

Theatre,  56. 

Tevis,  Mr.  and  Mrs.,  57. 

Treadwell,  Mr.  J.  W.,  66. 

Terry,  General,  66. 

Topsy,  74,  456. 

Trade  Winds,  116, 118,  120,  347,  494. 
Tutuila,  119,  122,  123,  124. 

Turner,  Mr.,  119,  121. 

Trenton,  Man  of  War,  123. 

Tutanekai,  141. 

Tongaris,  142. 

Tiketeri,  142. 

Terraces,  144,  145,  190,  194,  195. 

Tausso,  147  et  seq.,  150. 

Tongariro,  150. 


548 


INDEX. 


Tarawera,  150. 

Tasmania,  159,  184,  211,  219,  225,  230, 
231,  232, '320. 

Timaru,  171,  172,  184. 

Tekapo,  173,  184. 

Tasman,  Mount,  173. 

Tasman  River,  174,  175. 

Tasman  Glacier,  175. 

Tom  Tit,  177,  179. 

Tussock,  185,  195,  218,  292. 

Trout,  185. 

Tarn,  192. 

Thomas,  Concert  in  Chicago,  205. 

Tamar  River,  231,  232. 

Tiger,  Bengal,  241. 

Tyers,  Lake,  251,  252. 

Throwing  Stick,  255,  258,  400. 

Telegram  to  Taylor,  274,  280. 

Tiger  Snake,  275. 

Torrens  River,  314. 

Tasmanian  Devil,  315. 

Ticknor,  George,  336. 

Tortoises,  Land,  346,  350,  356. 

Toby,  Uncle,  348. 

Turtles,  350. 

Traveller’s  Tree,  355. 

Trois  Mamelles,  357. 

Tamatave,  374  et  seq. 

Taiianarivo,  374,  377. 

Tabu,  377. 

Trojan  Horse,  378. 

Transvaal,  385,  404,  406,  428,  435,  482. 
Tugela  River,  399. 

Ten  Thousand,  the,  403. 

Table  Mountain,  420,  450  et  seq.,  460,  462, 
479. 

Tigers,  435. 

Touro  River,  448. 

Thompson,  S.  Mudie,  479. 

Table  Bay,  480. 

Trojan  Horse,  483. 

Teneriffe,  494,  495. 

Training  Ship,  U.  S.,  500,  510. 

Trafalgar  Square,  501. 

Turner  (Painter),  508. 

Tyrrell,  Walter,  512  et  seq. 

Test  or  Anton  River,  516. 

Theatres,  526. 


u. 

Utter,  Charles  H.,  9, 11,  18. 

Upton,  Miss,  116. 

Upolu  Island,  122,  123. 

Uganruhoe,  150. 

Uncle  Toby,  223. 

Umgeni  River,  402. 

Umlazi,  402. 

Uitenhage,  411,  412. 

Uxmal  Ruins,  436. 

Uppington,  Sir  T.,  463. 

V. 

Vera  Cruz,  29. 

Virginia,  52,  117,  289,  305. 

Variety  Company,  118. 

Victoria,  119, 121, 192,  233,  260,  271,  300, 
320,  321,  322,  483. 

Victoria,  Queen,  139,  244,  317,  318. 
Visp,  Valley  of  the,  174. 

Vine,  Mr.,  176, 183, 185, 197,  202,  203. 
Virginia  State  Debt,  52,  248,  486,  487, 
498,  504. 

Victoria,  Lake,  250. 

Vampire,  256. 

Volunteers  of  New  South  Wales,  290. 
Victoria,  Port,  339. 

Vanilla,  346. 

Vegetable  Ivory,  356. 

Vaal  River,  398,  405,  423. 

Verulain,  401,  402. 

Vasco  de  Gama,  405,  481. 

Van  Riebeck,  481. 

Verde,  Cape,  487,  492,  493. 
Ventriloquist,  490. 

Verde,  Cape,  Islands,  493,  495. 

Vincent,  St.,  Island,  493. 

w. 

Walters,  W.  T.,  8. 

Winters,  Mrs.  William,  11, 18  et  seq.,  46. 
Williamson,  Dr.  Charles  H.,  19. 

Whale,  37,  311. 

Winchester,  Gathering  and  Speaking,  49. 
Wells,  Fargo  & Co.  Express,  59,  70. 


INDEX. 


549 


Watson,  Captain,  62,  80. 

Whar^,  136,  141,  142,  151. 

Waikato  River,  136,  140,  146,  147,  148, 
150,  185. 

Whakarewarewa,  139  et  seq.,  143. 
Wairoa,  140. 

Waiotapu  Valley,  143,  145. 

War  Club,  Mahori,  146. 

Wairakei,  147. 

Wairakei  River,  147. 

Woodville,  157,  158, 

Wellington,  157,  160. 

Washington,  159,  169,  224. 

Wren,  the  New  Zealand,  177. 

White  Man,  the,  177,  390,  393,  402, 
404. 

Woodland  Hen,  179,  183. 

Wanaka,  Lake,  184,  188,  190, 191,  194. 
Waitaki  River,  186. 

Wakatipu,  Lake,  191,  196,  197,  199. 
Weka,  192. 

Wheat,  196,  202,  235,  449. 

Westport,  197. 

VVaimea  Plains,  203. 

Waters  of  Leith,  207. 

Wordsworth,  217,  336. 

Wellington,  Mount,  225,  226. 

Warragul,  249. 

Wellington,  Lake,  250. 

Wattle,  the,  251,  252. 

Wallabys,  256. 

Wines,  285,  418,  449,  461. 

Windsor,  289. 

West,  Robert  G.,  289. 

Wallangarra,  290. 

Werris  Creek,  296. 

Wheeler,  Mr.,  297,  306. 

Wilson,  Mr.  James,  299,  322. 

Wilson’s  Promontory,  311. 

Winder,  Captain,  373,  456. 

W.,  Major,  373. 

Worth,  390. 

Water  Bok,  419. 

Winter  Bergen  Mountains,  420,  448. 


Williams,  j\Ir.  Gardner,  424,  425,  428, 
433,  464  et  seq. 

Wolfe,  George  F.,  429,  431, 479,  480,  486, 
496. 

Ward,  Mr.,  432. 

Worcester,  449. 

Wellington  (South  Africa),  449. 

Wight,  Isle  of,  500. 

William  Rufus,  500. 

Winchester,  England,  501. 

Werra,  S.  Ship,  504,  507  et  seq.,  519  et  seq., 
Winchester,  Va.,  506,  520,  525. 
Whitechapel,  508. 

Westminster  School,  508. 

Westminster  Abbey,  506,  507. 
Wellington,  Duke  of,  506. 

Watts,  Isaac,  511. 

William  Rufus,  King,  512. 

Walter  Tyrrell,  512. 

Welsh  and  Legg,  520. 

" X. 

Xenophon,  403. 

Y. 

Yucatan,  13,  436. 

Yokohama,  126,  493. 

Yellowstone  Park,  140, 142, 143, 148, 149. 
York  Cape,  319. 

Young  Australians,  325. 

Young  Americans,  325. 


z. 

Zelandia,  the  Steamer,  124,  273,  279. 
Zanthippe,  279. 

Zanzibar,  349,  350. 

Zululand,  399,  405. 

Zum  Bergen  Mountains,  420. 
Zimbabye,  436  et  seq. 

Zwartz  Mountains,  448. 


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